The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 29, 1901, Page 6

THE SUNDAY CALL. LATEST TYPE OF BISQUE boLL How ths Christmas Doil o. 1901 Surpasses in Beauty and Mechanitm All Her Predecessors — No Less Than Forty DifferentFer- sons Required to Perfect Her—How Long Her Evo- lution Has Extended Cver the Past — A Ho.iday Study in Dollology. . . . which peovles, & e genera- some families But they are America Mikados nobles of the court, historical person- t is held in their are six or eight ooden dolls made by the na- tive Africa so. also, are rag dolis dian tribes dolls made from ea J ree bark and rags are found. The rag bables have hideous painted faces, daubed with streaks of red. Dolls of the Europeans. ropean nations dolls the records of the the Ty Among mo; are mer fifteen century during the reign of VI, of France. named Pusel on at Paris of which were fac- Roman E s became the fa k passed in which the King aid not ase one of the fig- ures. The entire court followed his ex- ample. Wh the King dled a change came. The numerous wax figures were turned over to the children. Modern dolls were common here in America eigh years ago. The body and the head were carved from one piece and the limbs were made from kid. The fea- tures of the face were painted. The halr was real. Dolls with wax heads were then the elits of the doll world, but they were mot nearly so pretty as the ones we have now. Their bodles were stiff and long and without joints. Their shoes and clothes were sewed on them and they had no accomplishmen ch as turning their heads on & spring and saying “Mammal!” and “Papa!” when 2 machine was wound inside. However, little girlsin those days played meostly with home-made dolls, called rag bables. Many were imported from Eng- Jand and sold here, especially in the South. One of the dolls which came from ¥England so long ago is plctured above. Her name is Araminta. She has a pain ed face. Time has not dimmed the bright- mess of her black eyes nor stolen the roses from ber cheeks. The London Goll special to-day is the rag baby, and a very pletty thing it is. Here in New York, too, the rag doll has developed into & very fine affair, costing from $ to $12 aplece. There are some 90 varieties of the mod- ern doll, ranging in price from 5 cents to §1%0. The cost depends principally upon the expensive quelity of the Goll's ward- robe. Aristocratic German Puppets, The finest dolls now come from Ger- many, which excels France in this indus- try. Nuremberg hes been the home of 50ll making for many centuries. Now mly the cheaper grades are made there. The finest grades come from Sonneberg, where schools of design have been estab- ished since 1851 In these schools models of all the best mntigue and modern sculpture are to be ‘ound, and collections of good prints, To these schools all the young children are sent to model, and the most exguisite work is the result, both in the expression md complexion of the dolls. Germany dso possesses the secret of making the sest doll powder, of enamel. No less than forty different persons are iecessary to the making of one doll, and @ach cne does one thing. First a model the head and neck is made from a ump of clay. Then the molder takes it mnd makes & mold in which to shape the wper pulp from the kettle, if the doll is o be waxed, and from a dough of clay f bisque and china. The latter heads are wked to make them hard. Then the head passex from one hand to nen do th compl finest gwork, in ms. The hands and feet ata ' 4 E T sade In the same way. The bes now are of bisque, whicn is a kind of poréelain. They have taken th lace of the wax heads in the last -five The body and limbs are made of papier mache and have uni- t he twen vears, 411.14"{ 5 y versal joints, so that the hands and feet can be placed in any position. Most Beautiful Yet. Such a doll is They are moving ey y go to She m moving eyes are Then, she has called eyes actual lids and lashes; and behind her glass teeth you can catch a glimpse of ber little red tongue. These teeth are put in in of four. Here in York and in the North generally the favorite dolls are those hav- ing dark eyes and fair hair or blue eyes and dark hair. In the Southern States dark hair and dark ey Dreferred: The Nanking doll—that i ioned doll with china head and hands and feet and having a body of coarse mu stuffed~with sawdust or excelsior—| INTERIOR OF A NEW YOoRK DOLL HOSPITAL RUSSIAN PEASANT DOLL In great demand. Country stores sell a great many of them. Many are sent West, also to the West Indies and to South America. Curiously enough, mand in the hot co the doll most in de- ries of South Amer- ica is the wax doll. The heat there melts the w and easily changes the expres- sion of the face. There is nothing very new in the me- chanical devices for dolls—in winking, walking, speaking and singing. The adap- tation of the phonograph to the anatomy of the talking doll to increase her vocabu- lary a failure. The Dutch invented the crying doll. The pattern originally came from Japan, and has long heen lying in the museum at The Hague. Germany now makes them on the same model. The very newest on the market is tha “tindestr ble” doll, having movable legs. Tt will not break—a great advantage for little people, who can hurl them e ARAPAHOE TNDIAN about at will. Then, too, they float In water and can be given a plunge bath, a thing which doll mothers always like to do. The finest grades are made of cellulold They are not large, varying in size from four to sixteen inches. They cost from 15 cents to $3 75. Their baby faces have not the fine expression of the bisque ba- bies, but they are made to look attractive in the shops by putting on them worsted baby jackets. What Is Considered Cheap. A doll is considered cheap when it costs anything under 98 cents. Such dolls are made of a composition of sand, clay and glue, and are natives of this country. The bodles are stuffed with cotton or excel- sior. The better grades have bodies of papier mache. The price of wax dolls ranges from 10 cents to $9 apiece. The finer grades have parer bodies and cost from 49 cents to $12 or $15. The cheaper grades, with com- i 5 half falling low on the skirt, down to the very hem. There is nothing simpler to make than these lace sets and the woman of time, taste and patience can try them. Miss Randolph, the stepdaughter of Wil liam C. Whitney, wore at a young p ple's afternoon affair a skirt that was really typical of one of the styles that will soon be seen upon the gowns de- signed for grown folk. This skirt was made in little puffs with bands of insertion between the puffs. It was only just to the young woman's an- kles, but it flared very prettily and looked not o very unlike the short dancing skirts that were the voguc a few years ago. The bands of insertion were finger wide and were put on very plainly around the skirt to sort of strap it to the figure. The material was sheer and made over a foun= dation. The Rose for 1902. The extent to which the rose will be used the coming year can scarcely be sauged. Not only will it continue to form a feature of embroide: tut it will be seen in silk and in veivet and in every fabric that bears any semblance to the rose petal. It will be used boldy as the artificlal rose. A great rose of chiffon, like a chou, can trim the bodice of an evening gown. The prettiest evening effects are ob- tained by the artificial rose. Mrs. Alfred Vanderbilt is wearing a bunch in deep pink against a gown of silver gray. The gown Is in cloth of satin luster, called panne cloth. It is very thin and displays | the lining, which is pink. The bodice is cut upon the new blouse lines, with broad blouse front instead of the pointed front, and the roses are fastened at one side of the bust. Another gown, an evening one, worn by this same fortunate matron, shows & bunch of roses disposed so that they trail over the shoulder and down the back. A bunch also finishes the belt. For the, street the styles are changing as well as for the blouse. Positively an- tique will last year’s gown look this year, unless the gifted fingers of a modiste are allowed full play upon it. The princess style is still the thing and the skirt and waist seem to grow to- gether. It may be done by a way of trim- ming, but the princess look must be there. For the street there is to be a tendency toward the long, straight lines that have been noticed upon house gowns. These cannot. always be secured, yet they are possible in many cases. Lace ends, stolelike, are not always good on a street gown, but just at this season the fur bo: fichus whict can be worn 1d the long give height and slimness. Furs for 1903, The very long, all-fur boa is something that chould be in the wardrobe of every woman who can afford one. The larger er the boa the better. An immense round fur boa of sable is really a good in- nt, and can be worn year after It should be of good color and of the best sable that one can command. here are black furs that will take the place of sable nicely., They are long- haired and rather aggressive, in that they are ctiff and unmanageable in kind, but they are just what s needed in the boa line. In buying furs it should be remem- bered that, accident aside, they will never wear out, but will keep as a family heir- loom forever, if enough is paid for them. The long lines can be obtained by the flat boas of broadtail, of chinchilla, of mink, of seal and of stone marten. They are made up so as to stand erect around the neck and lie flat upon the front of the Zown, coming down in two wide pieces all the way to the hem of the skirt. Those who prefer can wear shorter ones, just be- low the belt line, but every attempt must be made to preserve the length. The boa thrown over the shoulder is not so much seen now, for it is not the mode to toss the boa over the shoulder and wind it around and around the neck. The satin cloths are to come in this spring, though for a time they have been crowded out a little by the rough goods. They will be more satiny than before, and higher in quality, in price and in tone. They will be worn in the best grades to +- very high class functions and they will be accepted for calling and for nice occasions everywhere. The mother of an Easter bride—and Easter comes early this year—is getting ready for her own jmportant part of the ceremony. She is to dress in white, this mother-invlaw that will be, and will wear a gown of white satin cloth. To take off the almost kittenish appear- ance she will have it trtmmed with black lace put on over a lining of lavender. There will be a deep lace hip yoke, a long lace collar, all lavender lined, and a lace flounce. Street Styles for 1902. In street styles the satin cloths play a still more surprising part. They are made up on the most extraordinarily ex- travagant lines, and are worn as though they were tweeds. A gown that will be worn for calling the second day of January, which is “ladles’ day,” will be of a shade of cloth that is now called automobile red. It is very red and you might have once styled it brick. It-is not the invisible red that one might imagine. ‘the gown is a princess with great slashes in the skirt. The slits are almost as deep as the walst. There is no trim- ming of any description upon the skirt, which is cut rather scant. But through the deep slits you can get glimpses of a black silk drop skirt, abundantly trimmed with knife plaitings of chiffon and taffeta. The drop skirt is very long and has the demitrain over which the automobile red princess falls. The walst is a prin- cess, with a V cut in the front to show & vest of black. —— FASHION'S DECREES FOR THE COMING YEAR.—_ The hat that Is coming Is the fur hat. The vogue for it is on the increase and it will be the hat to wear all January and February. It is heavy, and, though always becoming, cannot be tolerated by sensitive women. There are flat-topped hats. with tops of fur, and these are very pretty. A hat with top of ermine had a little silk brim and was worn with a coat of Persian lamb with ermine lapels and cuffs. New Hats for 1902. The student hat, perfectly flat on top, is copled in the fur hats, and the ‘“straw- berry shortcake hat” of last summer's memory is seen with the top layer of fur, then a silk crown, then one of felt. Snow proof materials are advertised and gocds that will “stand the weather.” Those who are in the “know” regarding materials say that winter is much less trying upon hats than summer; for, while tho flying snow and chance bath of sleet may spot the stuff, it is apt to dry out again and leave the shape and original color there. The sun, on the other hand, and the winds of spring fade out and ut- terly deprive all materfal of life and tex- ture. In purchasing one should remember this fact and buy for becomingness rather than for durability. It can not be predicted that the foot flare will go out, for it is seen not only upon the domestic models but upon the imported ones; and this means that it will prevalil all the spring at least. ‘With the foot flare there must be noted the prominence which braiding will take. Braids of all colors and in every width will be used freely and very decoratively upon the spring dresses. The newest PAGE 8---THE COWBOY POSTER---PAGE 8 printed the first of a series of Western posters from the brush of the great “Cowpuncher Artist,” Ed. Borein. Mr. Borein spent years of active life on the plains of the vast Southwest. In the interest of his art he dared do what few of his brother professionals have done—threw aside entirely the life of the studio and ac- tually took up the existence of a “cowpuncher.” He could ride a buck- ing bronco, round up a herd, brand a steer, throw a lariat or handle a gun with the best of them. All this time, as opportunity offered, his pencil and ON Page Eight of this section is paper were busy and he made hun- dreds of sketches that breaths the life of the plains as it really is and not as it seems to soft-fingered artists ‘who work in comfortable studios and depend for their inspiration on the drawings of such men as Borein. His pictures are fliled with the tang of the soil. They please because they are natural, because they are the per- sonification of a certain phase of life —a life full of action, of the sweat and toil of man and beast. The draw- ings in this series will show the high- est type of animal vigor and physical manhood skillfully interpreted with 4 a dash and fervor that can only come from the trained hand supplemented by actual experience. This is only possible to one who has lived among his models and has himself been one of them—such a man is Mr. Borein. All typographical matter has been purposely omitted from Page Eignt in order that there might be nothing to detract from the vital qualities of this splendid poster. Cut it out. Paste it on a suitable background. Be careful to miss none of this series and you will have as fine a set of posters for mural decoration as has ever been published in the United States. — bralds are In two and three colors and in four and more. They come With the tin- seling set In and with very thin stripes, giving them something of the appearance of lace. The manner in which braid will be used makes a little chapter by itself. It will be applied to gowns, not in those intricate windings that usually characterize brald, but in great and broadly defined figures. Braid crossed upon the front of the bodice 1s a feature of a gown just worn by Mrs. Nellle Grant Sartoris, prettiest of Washington widows. The braid is wide and beautiful in luster. It is crossed upon the front of the waist to make a big hol- iow square. +Trimmings for 1902. Stitching becomes bolder. It is now the thing to arrange it in rows placed so closely together that It looks like one broad band of stitching. But it {s ruinous to the goods for any other use, knd for that reason the stitched bands are applied whenever their use is possible. Stitched bands of cloth, stitched bands of taffeta, stitched bands of velvet and stitched bands of chiffon upon a siik foundation are used for trimming pur- poses. Linings will run toward white as be! daintier, and it must be recorded tl{Ana‘t' they will soll. True, a white satin llning wears longer, In point of keeping clean, than one would suppose. And brushings will renew its life and applications of chalk will hide the dirt. But there comes & time when the lining must be cleaned, and one is treated to the spectacle of a handsome cloak of black cloth on the way to the cleaner—to have its lining done. ‘White will be the color of spring. Ban- ished will the other colors be for a day, while the scene will be brilliant with its gowns of white and Its gowns of all black. White cloth is always charming, and those who will invest in the luxury of & white cloth gown will scarcely regret it, for so many are its uses. The skirt that has been carried so high this year will now be lowered. It is even predicted that it will hang and that silks and laces will trall their costly lengths upon the pavements. That this is prob. ably correct prophecy can be gathered by the fact that the French pictures show the women of next spring walking through streets with skirts dragging. For the present we have the mouse lift which elevates the skirts very nicely, and the side lift, which brings them well up to the knees. The drop skirt fulfills ‘is self appointed mission of dropping and re- sembling a dress skirt. ‘The sheath skirt requires the back lift; one full handed clutch below the wa line lifts it from the street all the around. Other styles there will be many, is for the ually lifting curtain bl“" it to reveal them. o position bodles, cost from 10 cen's to & Baby bisque dolls always sell well. They are no longer insignificant creatures, dressed in long clothes. The expression of their faces has been made beautiful. Usually girls choose dolls which are sup- posed to be from 3 to 7 or 8 years old. Dolls to represent women are only pur- chased when a child makes & collection of dolls. Not even boy dolls are a favor- ite purchase. Costume dolls, representing different nationalities, are merely curiosities, and are never mothered. Each year a doll's wardrobe grows moré and more elaborate. Boxes and small trunks come ready packed with complets outfits for all occasions. The cheaper grade of stockings is now made in the United States. All the finer grades of cotton, lisle thread and silk are imported from Germany and cost as high as 50 cents a pair. Any kind and styls of shoe may be purchased for these little persons. During the last ten years the best grades have been made in Philadel- phia and Bridgeport, Conn. The cheapez ones are imported from Germany. Miss Dolly’s Wardrobe. All the straw and felt hats are made In this country, but the lace and silk bon- nets come from Paris. Once the mackin- toshes were Imported from Germany. Now they are made hers. Umbrellas and parasols also come from Germany, and thers s always a large assortment te choose from. Kid gloves my be bought in all colors, at prices ranging from 88 cents to §180. Fans come from Paris. Some of them are very beautifulw pleces of hand paint- ed work. They are made in private homes in some of the side streets of Paris i the Quartier du Temple. From Paris also come all the jewslry and tollet articles and tiny purses. Ger- many now sends us corsets for the “lady” dolls. They apst 25 cents. Formerly when Santa Claus brought & doll undressed nobody thought of buying clothes for it. Its fine dress was made out of a plece of the little maiden’s old frock, and she herself made all its lingerie. Now, home-made clothes are out of style, and the dolls’ dressmaker is an established fact. These Jenny Wrens use patterns in some cases, but dear me, dolls are so unlike and differ so in shape and size that patterns are not always a_success. The best dressmakers look to Paris for new wrinkles, and so study and imitate the fashions for the big folk. China dolls are the easiest to dress. They look the best In a full skirt and round waist,, with a sash. The chemise is the easlest to make; the jackets are the hardest. A visit to the Dolls’ Hospital in the upper shopping district of New York City about two weeks before Christmas would give ong; an idea of the position of im- portance which the doll occuples in the economy of the world. The corners are stacked” with doll pa- tients who have seen hard times. Some of the shelves are filled with those which have already passed through the doc- tor's hands. On others are heads of all kinds and sizes, and hanging from the shelves are hands and feet, arms and legs. Little girls love the old dolls best. It is very common to find a family spend- ing $2 in repalrs on a poor little doll which cost only 25 cents originally. New hands and feet, also upper arms and forearms, can be bought for any price, from 10 cents to §l. A good sized paper body will cost from 50 cents to $2. Moving eyes of all sizes may be found here and exchanged for an old doll's sta- tlonary eyes. Great skill Is required in this operation. Very few can do it. One tooth may be replaced, and all kinds of wigs may be found, if dolly has lost her first crop of hair. These wigs are made of mohair, angora, lamb’s wool and real hair. The very newest thing in wigs Is made with a pompadour. Such a one for & good sized doll would cost $10. They are imported from Germany.