The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 29, 1901, Page 3

————— Knot Coiled Low Is the Popular Mode Crowns of Bands of Jewels Favored by Some Smart Conceit in Marabcut Feathers Something About But terflies and Flowers Rosettes of Gauze Ribbons for Young Girls Smart Fashion in Double Ornaments rnament worn with v is as much s with their pretty from beneath her that look best ds of jewels, glit- kling aigrettes, and h are rendered posi- when picturesquely a simple knot or ribben or In the latter case the a detall of the picture s effect not so much on s on how it is worn, e knot colled low in the neck r mode of wearing the hair at are still many fashionable prefer high dressing of the tair for e ing, consequently the shops sre showing ornaments suitable for both styles of coiffure. Among the smartest conceits just now wre marabout feathers, usually spangled with rhinestones or pointed gold paillettes. These soft, downy ornaments in white are exceedingly pretty, sometimes a single ft being worn and, again, three cmall es ere clustered together, forming one srnament. Then there are roses and choux and deli- cately tinted flowers, with full aigrette standing up, which gives one desired ght. Two large roses with soft white relvet petals placed back to back had one of these feathery adjuncts fastened be- iween the two flowers. This ornament is sspecially pretty with the hair worn on iop of the head. Butterflies, bows and tinted rose >rnament is on tnd depends for what it is & o birds of old rose or Brussels point lace, invisibly wired to rest against or hover over the coiffure, are liked by a few. When these lace novelties are black they are adorned with jet paillettes or dull sil- ver ones. The popularity of wreaths doesn't seem to have diminished, though instead of the glittering ones of bright red, green and silver paillettes, so much worn last sea- son, there seems to be a preference for those in natural looking greens or of soft velvet, generally in white. There is noth- ing to brighten them, and, as a cornse- quence, they are rather trying to any ex- cept persons with soft, wavy hair of light coloring. Roses of velvet—in fact, all flowers molded in this soft material—are very smart, but the colors must not be too brizht hued. A single pink flower in the *‘crush” va- riety, with its large, flat petals glittering with rhinestones, looks effective nestling against soft hair of a gold brown shade, while another in rich American beauty tints, with these sparkling crystal drops trembling on its velvety petals, gives to a brunette an adorably coquettish alr when it is tucked just behind the left ear. Although different in style is a spreading bow of inch-wide velvet ribbon, wired to lay in long, gracefully twisted loops, and to be -worn flat on the top of the head Rhinestone spangles sewn on the ribbor in diagonal rows give the ornament s chie air. The woman with classic features, who wears her hair slightly parted and drawn back loosely from her face, will find this Alsatian bow vastly becoming. Sometimes two ornaments are worn, only, however, with the low colffure; one Tobacco-Smoker Who Gets Most Out of a Good Pipe. HERE are many pipe smokers who do mot know how to get the best there is out of their indulgence. The great point imoke 1 in pipe smoking is to . ervous smokers smoke nd burn their tongues with esides falling entirely to get lest and hest flavor out of the te- .. bacco. It is all a matter of habit, but siow smoking is a habit which it is hard rs to acquire. In some pe smokers have tried for years k thelr smoking speed without They begin too late, and the habit of rapid smoking is shaken off with fimct when 1t is once acquired. smoking is as bad as rapid eat- worse It so “bad form,” 1 or clgarette. 1d be deliberate in or- est enjoyment. It Is pipe. Many persons their lives and yet do moke. It is as painful people smoke as it a man who * food on the nents™ plan. oker gets out of of which the rapid has ng. A cigar which | as once gome out has its flavor ruined nothing is more obnoxious to | of smell than a newly exlln»l The beastly persons who | ake their beastly “butts,” half l|‘hledi r newly extinguished. into the elevated d surface cars should have some pun- shment devised for them—*something hu- morous with bolling ofl.” t makes no difference to the flavor »f a pipe how many times it goes out. | Fastidious pipe smokers always have at | east two pipes at hand and never refill me u it is entirely cooled off. This help toward good smoking and a onable life in a pipe. A good way (o tell if you are smoking too fast is to hold the bowl of the pipe in your hand. If it is too hot to be held with comfort, Ihen you know that your smoking speed slowly success. pipe smoked how me t the table witk oW ne. gorges r-mint The deliberate s pipe an enjo pine rme ink smoker no rever he sense guished “butt.” But s a is too great. Good tobacco, a good pipe and deliberateness are the prime essen- tials in pipe smoking. Eat slowly, smoke slowly, drink seldom: so shall you live long in the land and enjoy the fullness thereof.—Chicago Tribune. Z= < 1= usually of upstanding loops of ribbon or a close bunch of small blossoms, placed on top of the head a little to the left side. This is to give the desired height some women think is demanded with the long lines of the trailing evening gown. The second ornament matches the larger one. It is quite small and is gracefully worn just behind the ear, nestling In the soft curls coiled low in the neck. | Geuze ribbons gathered info rosettes are | extremely pretty for adorning the heads ]ot young girls. Oftentimes small roses are fastened among the full loops of the lud THE SUNDAY CALL. y in Hair Orname ” THE SIMPLE MODE AS AFFECTED ==, - BYATHE NEW YORK WOMAN, FASHIONARLF VELVET FIORERS AND AIGRF TR ribbon, especially if the ornament is in delicate pink, when. Picayune roses or flowering almond blossoms are combined with the gauze of the same delicate pink. It Is a smart fashion to have these two ornaments fastened together with a dou- ble band of the gauze ribbon, for with this style many effective and unusual ar- rangemants may be obtained. For in- stance, by placing the larger rosette against the hair at the left of the upper part of the semi-low coiffure, the connect- ing band of ribbon may be twisted among the colls of the hair; the smaller rosette Continued From Page Two. first mate, and A. A. Platt, second mate and cook. “Now, I tell you it's no fun to stand at the wheel, with the ship going broadside in the trough of the waves, and try to keep your reckonings when you have to depend on a sextant, for we had no chro- nometer. When the sun shines you don't feel so much that there is only a plank between you and eternity, but when there is a leaden sky and the night with its fogs | is settling down and the wind whistles as it it knew that it owned the vessel and everybody on it, then you wish it was the width of a gang plank to land instead of 450 miles. “Well, we got along pretty well for greenhorns, Moseley being the only sailor in the crowd, and twice we got as far ncrth as Mendocino, and then twice we found ourselves off Point Reyes. Then we decided to make one more try of it, for the place we were bound for. And then happened the saddest, most uncanny dis- aster of the whole trip. We three men had to take turns at the wheel, and I have not had my clothes off once during the time we were away. The Cordella man- aged to keep us all on the alert most of the time, I can tell you. On the night of October § we were once more off the Ore- Bon coast and Moseley was at the helm. Becond Mate Platt and I were bunking in the cabin trying to get a wink of sleep. TRE VOYAGE Suddenly the Cordelia gave an awful lurch to leeward, there was a rumbling, rackety sound, and something shot down the hatchway. “It was Moseley, and he never moved from the floor where he struck. He was consclous, peor lad, but he sailed no farther with the crew of the Cordelia. Platt was as tender as a woman with him, but he only lived a few minutes. I rushed up to the deck to man the wheel and I found that the main boom had swung around and struck the poor boy and knocked him down the stairway. The awful blow fractured his skull. He dled doing his duty as a soldier should, for he had served In the United States army in the Philippines and had a good record. That was a solemn thing when we gave the poor boy's body to ‘the sea and all that therein is.’ s “Platt sewed him up in a spare sail and brought him aft to the wheel, where T was on duty. It was a stormy time and it was a strange scene on the deck of the little craft, tossing on a foggy sea. I said a prayer and then we both turned our heads away as Platt let the canvas shrouded body slip into the green curling waves. “That left two of us and many fearful days and nights did we see together. We may then be brought lower on the same side as the other one, or crossed to the right side of the coiffure and pinned just behind the ear. Small rosettes with two upstanding loops of double-faced satin ribben, showi- ing one side white and the other delicate pink or pale blue, make pretty and simple little ornaments to be worn with gowns not too elaborate. A corsage knot of ribbon to match gives a smart touch to a demi-toilet, However, the smartest little hair orna- ment made of ribbon is the small round A PICTIRESQIE WAY OF chou of two-toned ribbon. say the favorite pink and white, with a pink crush rose placed in the center of the rosette. The effect is charming, and is a pleasing vari- nls. WEARING A GAVZE _ ROSETTE atfon to the s:mpie unadorned rese, though, to be sure, there is never any- thing prettier than this beautiful flower when becomingly worn. By the way, tight little rosettes very much like those one sees on the head band of a horse's bridle are used on many of the smartest gowns. These hard little bunches of ribbon have quite superseded the recently popular soft chiffon chou. Black velvet seems to be reserved for house wear, and with many of the soft, graceful tea gowns or house gowns velvet knots and tiny rosettes are seen. Some- times there are small stcel or rhinestons boutons to brighten them up a bit. ‘Whatever you choose to ornament your hair, have it becoming. Study your face and head carefully and select something that suits its lines and your style of colf- fure. Don’t place an ornament In your hair without regard to the effect you wish to produce. Have as much individuaMty about it as you like, but never attempt anything outre. What the President’s Private Secrefary Has to De. HE position of secretary to the Y President of the United States is an arduous one. In the rendering of its multitudinous services 1t calls for the business qualifications of a methodical and systematic OF THE CORDELIA KEALD had to change walches with each other and one of us often had to work sixteen hours a day. Sometimes in the open sea 1 was so fatigued that T would come near dropping at the wheel. Sometimes we would just lash the wheel and let the Cordelia go before the wind and take care of herself while we slept. And when we did sleep we slept without inquiring what became of the Cordelia, or how many bells had just struck. And we always came out right, though we had some pratty close shaves. After the death of Moseley we decided to go on any try to reach our destination and see whether landsmen could run a boat or not. After a long time. in which we saw neither land nor lights, we arrived off the mouth of the Klamath River on October 19. And that was the hardest pill of all our long and eventful trip. “We had neither steam nor a propeller and we had to have three conditions fa- vorable or we would bump on the outside bar. We had to have a smooth sea, with tide and wind up the river. These three things we could not get. After making several attempts to enter the river there seemed to be nothing left to do but to tack ship and float for San Francisco, which we accordingly did. By this time we were getting to be pretty well filled with sea salt and knew when to say ‘Aye, aye, sir,’ in the right place. “'I grew to know a good deal about the relations of a sextant to the sun, and the funny thing about it is that though I had no chronometer I managed to keep my bearings on the whole tour. We came down the coast in less time than it took us to get in the Golden Gate after we got here, and when we were off Point Reyes we gaw a school of whales. Oné of them, about farty feet long, I should say, began to spout about thirty feet from the Cor- della. That was near enough to suit my taste, for, you know, I built my ecraft with a flat bottom. But he came nearer and nearer, and Platt and T were almosL paralyzed when the huge fish plunged downward in a dive right under the cabln of our vessel. We held our breath, and in a moment he came out on the other side, and we cculd see that his whaleship was covered with barnacles. Once he came up within ten feet of the side and turned over, like a big sea kitten. I think he must have thought le could have a chance to get those varnacles off, but if he had ever humped up his back under the Cordelia there would have been two more farmers in Davy Jones' locker. The sallors have told us since that if we had gone down In the cabin.and made even a — slight noise by pounding on the sides of the ship his lordship would have de- camped immediately. But we didn't know that, and we sat there frightened to death while he repeated the diving process, coming up on the other side of the boat, I think about twenty times. | “The next thing that worried us was the running low of our food supply. The supply of oil for the lanterns was nearly exhausied, and things began to look se- rious. Then stormy weather began and lasted until November 6. We had two tight spots to get out of on the voyage back. Once we came near going ashore at Fort Ross. The waves were high, and the wind blew to west and then to north. We could see the land only a mile or two away, and the Cordelia’'s nose heading straight for it. In some way I managed to tack ship. and my luck did not desert me. We had fourteen tons of coal as bal- | last when we started, but that dfdn't | amount to much. The fact of the matter | is the Cordelia can’t steer, and I think I shall use steam on .her next voyage. We | arrived off the Golden Gate on November 10, and then came what was not the least trying part of the long sall. We had to | da #s much watching and steering as 1f we were starting for a forelgn port in- stead of wailing to pass into a home port. Thick weather and rolling seas kept the rule, and It was not until December § that wind and tide were fair, and taking my old stand at the wheel I guided the Cor- della through the Golden Gate. And here in port we'll stay for the present.” clerk, In the performance of the daily routine of official work and the finesse of a practiced diplomat in meeting and sat- isfaetorily adjusting situations which nat= urally come before him as an intermedi- ary between the President and an assort- ed public, each individual of which be- lieves himself entitled to a portion of the time and interest of the chief executive. The task of handling and answering the Wkite House mail is in itself no small one, the President receiving from 200 te s a day. Important or not, each communications receives due at- tention, the secretary carefully sorting and classifying them; presenting some te the personal attention of the President, referring others to the department or per- son to which each properly belongs, while all recelve courteous acknowledgment from the President’'s representative. The secretary is also required to meet and dispose of the numerous visitors who call on the President at times not set aside for his public receptions, and whose business ranges all the way from that relative to the appointment of a Supreme Court Judge or ihe Governor of a tarbue lent territory to the obtaining of the presidential autograph for a school giry album. To deal with this heterogeneous mass in such a way as to best serve the ends of both business and courtesy, while ecomo- mizing his own time and easing the strain on the Prasident’s personal attention by | selecting the really important from the trivial quest—sorting the grain from the chaff—giving offense to none, and sending all away with pleasant words and smiling faces, requires endless resources of tact and good judgment. The secretary is also expected to keep at his fingers’ ends the details of all_th officlal business of the executive office. and the President is likely to send for him frequently each day to consult him re- garding official engagements which have been made by him, to seek informatiom and advise with him upon some matter no 0 bring paj an a case d immediate attontiome November Success.