The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 8, 1901, Page 9

Mrse. Severance has been called ‘““The Mother of Clubs” so often that it is some- what of a blow to tradition to be told that she does not wish the title, Yet here is what she writes: “I do disclaim being called the Mother of Clubs, since, although the New York Sorosis was a trifle behind our Bos- ton—or rather, to give it the true title, our New England Woman's Club—they should not be rivals for that hondr, but call (hel'nsel\'es ‘twin clubg,” as our frieng of San Francisco, Mrs, Horace Davis, hap- pily named them. When I look over the ltsls'und activities of our numberless wo- man’s clubs the world over, I feel like a many times great-grandmother.” However, in spite of her renunciation of l!lc title, it was given to her with reason. For she was the founder of that Boston club, the New England Woman's Club, which was the rirst of the great list to )vhich every State if the Union has added. That was founded when she was still a young woman; to-day she is over eighty and proud of her years, for they are mile- stones along the road of much labor ac- complished. If that laber had not been di- rected by a warm heart and a cool head there would not be to-day thousands of , ;-r{:‘mizau(ms the country over to tell the ale, .h‘h(: began carrying off hondrs when she was a school girl and she has been keep- ing up the practice ever since. She has exploded the theory that those who gradu- ate with honors never do anything else. She went to Mrs. Ricord’s school, a pri- vate institution in that exclusive old New York town, Geneva. It was a school of the old type, where young ladies were taught not only branches of book learning, but the savoir faire of the polite world as well. You will notice that those who were grounded thus in the old days have never forgotten the lessons that were often im- pressed by a ruler over the knuckles or a thimble over the cranium. In these days, when the multitudinous facts and theories crammed into baby heads go in at one ear and come out at the other, it is a marvel to look upon the old-time pupils and see (hflimpresslon made by early training. Mrs. Severance, with all her up-to-date- ness, is an example of that old-school training. Her courtesy is old-fashioned and flawless. That she deveoted herself also to the more solid@ branches at Mrs. Ricord’s school is proved by the fact that she was valedictorian of her class. She was only sixteen years old at that time. She married young. She has never been the one-sided woman that some of her clever co-workers have bcen. She has never found club life enough for her. She had her romance just as other girls have, in spite of the fact that she was a vale- dictorian and an embryo “‘clubber.” [ T Continued from Page Two. should be encouraged to write their own invitations, under the guidance of some older person—stationery with special deco- rations comes for the purpose—and it may be posted or the youthful hosts may think it an added pleasure to leave them at their destination in person. If the invitation be for a small dance, it may be formal, written in the third person— -4 Riss Gladys Jay requests the pleasure of the company of Master Harry Danvers at her birthday party on Thursday the seventh of February, at four o'clock. Thirty West Forticth street, Or the invitation may be given in a friendly little note, in some such form as— Dear Jean: Will you come to my birthday party on \ ednesday afternoon at four o'clock? ‘We shall meet on the lawn, and I hope that we may have a pleasant time, Yours sincerely, Gladys Jay. Thirty West Fortieth street, In winter the entertainment usually takes the form of a little dance, lasting from 4 until 7, during which the playing of games alternates with or follows the dancing. ’ The shades are drawn, the gas and lamps are lighted, the music of a plano or a plano and violin or harp is arranged for, and the young hosts, simply dressed, receive their guests, aided by the mother or some older person who is fond of chil- dren, \ The pretty courtesies and generous lit- tle sacrifices demanded by the position of host and hostess should be made to appear as their pleasant duty, and that their chief conecern must be to play the games their visitors prefer, to see that none are overlooked in the dancing and at supper, and that every one there has a good time. The refreshments may be served when things begin to drag. Supper need not necessarily be the final feature. The birthday cake may occupy the center of the table, its top either decorated with as many small candles as the ¢hild has years, or frosted to represent the dial of a clock, the hand pointing to the nu- meral that coincides vith the age of the host or hostess. A wreath of green may surround it, if lowers are too expensive, or instead of the cake there may be a large low basket of paper reses, which is passed around after the feast, and e Or, in knowing who they are, have you ever g s “The Best Known Club Women on the Pacific Coast?” Do you know who they aref studied their personalities to know why they should be considered the “best known’’? This sketch of Mrs. C. M. S. Severance is the sixth in an interesting series on just those lines. POCERESECAs S NEE She married before she was 21. Auburn, another of those small and exclusive New York towns, was her home and there she was married. She went at once to Cleve- land and set up housekeeping. Her hus- band was launching himeelf in lifé as a banker. There the young Severance family pros- pered in a worldly sense, but there was sorrow in the household when the oldest EfiqUette--Bg Mrs. KinGsland. from which each child draws a flower a..l finds a little gift attached to it. It fulfills the child’'s idea of a good time if there is something which may be carried home—a tangible evidence of what has passed like a dream. Therefore a simple favor may be provided, either in the way just indicated or placed at each cover if the children sit at table. This is, of course, only adapted to a very small party. Bouillon, sandwiches rolled and tied with rihbons, oranges cut in the shape of baskets and plenty of mot- toes suffice for the early supper. In summer the birthday fete will be the more enjoyable if held on the lawn from 4 to 7 in the afternoon. In the free- dom of an “outdoor party,” in the so- ciety of many playfellows, children ac- quire such bright spirits and are usually in such holiday mood as to make any great effort for their amusement unnec- elsary. Games of all kinds may give merry occupation until a slight weariness begins 1. threaten, and then the young folk may be marshaled to another part of the grounds, where little tables set under the trees, decorated with daisies and butter- cups, will enable them to ‘play tea party'’ after an ideal fashion. A sensible menu that will be productive of no un- pleasant after effects may consist of chicken sandwiches, with milk or cocoa, ice cream in flower meclds, sponge cake and plain bonbons. The costume mottoes never fail to create a little lutter of fun and excitem¢nt, The boys like the noise and the girls enjoy the *“dressing up.” There is often a birthday cake with can- dles, in which are baked a little ring and thimble. When the cake is cut, great interest is felt in their chance of desti- nation. A bowl of lemonade should be accessible throughout the afternoon. If the entertainment is in Lonor of a birthday, the guests often }.ing some trifling gift to the young host or hostess —a book, a game, or some small inex- pensive souvenir, Their greetings should be in the form of congratulations—*“Many happy returns of the day,” “I wish you a happy birth- day,” or, as a bright little girl once s id, “I hope that you will have three hundred and sixty-five happy days in this year."” In taking leave, each little guest should say to the lady of the house, “Good af- ternoon, Mrs—; I have had a very pleasant time,” or “Thank you, Mrg.—; I have enjoyed myself very much,” and then bid the child host or hostess good- by with some cordial expression of pleas- ure. f child, a son, died. Perhaps if it had not been for this sorrow Mrs, Severance would be less of a woman than she is to-day. Her warm heart and quick sympathy are known everywhere, and they must have ripened under the influence of trouble. There were three children besides the one who died, and their growth and edu- cation kKept her busy. She studied with them as they grew, Keeping up with all BY Spranlory Tock their interests ox pray and work. She let society severely alone. She had no time for it, and besides, it did not interest her as much as study did. She began to write for publication, She took up book reviewing and at last came the day when she went to report a wo- man’s suffrage conventioln at AKron, Obhiv. It was one of the first of them, v/hien the movement was new and unoop- ular, This was in 1851, This was the real beginnin? of her pub- lic work. She was fired with the spirit of the convention and she returned home i full-fledged suffragist, She wrote , clever and enthusiastic re- yorts of the convention, and these led to 1er being invited to prepare a memorial to be presented to the ILegislature of Ohijo. The Ohio Woman’s Rights Asso- ciation requested this, and it was through 1his organizatign that she was started upon her career as a suffragist. She came quickly to prominence in this association, for the president was absent from the first annual meeting in 1853 and Mrs. Sev- erance was chosen to have charge of the session in her place, From that time on she was a club wo- man among club women. She moved to Boston later, and there she kept up her work. Her friends included some of the best-known thinkers. Julia Ward Howe was one of them. The famous Hutchinson family were of her intimate friends. Sen- ator John A, ¥oote encouraged her in her suffrage work, She has never lost her interest in the work of women, and when she took up her home in IL.os Angeles she went about stirring women there. She founded the Friday Morning Club in 1801, was its active president until the labor beeame too arduous, and since ‘that has heen president emeritus of the organization. Mrs, Severance has always delighted in adopting proteges in whom she =saw symptoms of talent, and her generosity has carried her too far at times, making inroads upon her pocketbook for wunde- serving people. She believes, however, that it is better to give to the occasional undeserving than to refuse the now and then angel who may be entertained un- awares, A little while ago T asked her to write a few words that might be published as a message from her to club women every- where, and this is what-she sent, in her firm, youthful handwriting that shows no trace of a_tremble: The club idea for women surely met a real, perhaps a longefelt want, and T re- joice exceedingly in its wonderfully wide acceptance, and belleve unfalteringly in the gain to woman and the world; happv to have had my share in its launching.” s Fashion--By RuGusta Prescott. Continued from Page Five. Silver, it may be remarked, is the despair of the dress decorator, for it is very diffi- cult to get effects with it, whereas steel works in well and is decorative, while gold is absolutely brilliant. Jet has a winky attractiveness, and even gun metal looks well 'from a distance, but silver has a - provoking way of disappearing across the room. ; A back buckle that is worn by many of the most fashionable dressers is in strips, all the parts coming together at the middle, but separating top and bottom. This makes a wide buckle, narrow just where you would have it narrow—at the middle of the back. » The front of the buckle had better be small, unless one is either very slender or very much after effects. The wide front clasp has a way of making the ab- domen seem prominent, and is not becom- ing to many. The little, round buckle, the medallion, the circle, the clasp, the little no-matter-what ornament, so long as it is small, looks well upon all waists and can be drawn down in the universal point. ‘With the Fur Wrap. The most delightful feature of the new shirt waists is seen in the manner in which they are now being made to wear with the fur wrap. They are actually constructed for wear with the shoulder cape, and are not pretty unless worn with it. True, they will pass muster when the cape is slipped off, but by far the hand- somest part is that which appears below the edge of the cape, when the cape is on. A shirt waist, made to wear with a deep velvet collarette, trimmed with chin- chilla, was in de pegray silk flannel, probably lined, for it was to be worn all winter, with no other coat except the shoulder ornament, The front was buillt .upon the Norfolk plan, with a big plait at each side of the middle and big brass buttons upon the middle, between the plaits, In front there hung down below the belt two wide basque ends, while the belt, with its round waist, was cut off and in the back it was short, coming just to the belt line. This half Norfolk was very pretty for a winter's day. The project of owning two eor three shirt waists that are warm enough to wear all winter under a shoulder cape is a good one for the woman who is out much in the air, This heavy shirt waist is comfortable for walking and does not weight the shoulders like a coat. More- oyer, the little collarette protects the shoulders and the lungs, and is really the best article that could be chosen for the winter's outing woman. There is a waist that is made peculiarly for walking wear. Like its sister waist it is built for show below the deep fur collarette, with this difference, that all the trimming is in the back. This whaist is designed to be worn with the collar~ ette that has tails or ends in front. The back, which is protected only by the cape, is elaborately trimmed below the yoke, or below where the cape ends. This is a novelty walst, but it may containa suggestion for the woman who likes to do everything in the right way. Waist Materials, In waist materials one is really unlimit- ed. There are new goods this year that fill every chink found vacant in last sea- son’s demands. The latest fad Is the waist that is made of men's overcoating. 1t is very heavy and is, indeed, a coat. It is almost too thick to be worn with a cape, a collarette or even a boa, though thers are chiffon boas that come for tne pur- pose of wearing with these thick waists, The waists made of overcoating are for the most part blouses, as there is really no other wn{ to handle them, unless it be as a Norfolk or as a plain \¥alst, pulled down front and back in that rather se- vere new style. > It is a pretty mode which makes this heavy shirt waist unbuttonable, and of a style that comes off entirely., The stock unhooks at one side. The waist unbut- tons down the front. Under it there is a gay silk walst, all lace and furbelows, or a plain silk blouse, just as may be, Such an unbuttonable cloth shirt waist makes an excellent and very serviceable Icthu;KCh waist. One can keep it on or take off. The taffetas are more durable than they were and some of them almost rank with cloth in point of durability., A business woman, who carefully tests each shirt watst from a standpoint of durability, found that one of the new black taffetas recommended by her dealer wore her, counting day for day, as long as one of cashmere. In point of beauty and com- fort she elected in favor of the taffeta, though some find cashmere a more com- panionable stuff, The figured silks, the Loulsines, pompa- dours, Empires and colonial silks are all relieved of their objectionable features by the way in which they are treated. If you cannot wear a whole bodice of Louising silkk, with its scattered flowers, you can wear a deep yoke of it, and your sleeve puffs can be of Louisine. The rest of the waist can be in plain silk of a color to match the background of your Louisine. Then your belt can be a little black velvet strip and your stock can be of the same, the latter overlald with a strap of white llafe Jwt where it turns over under the chin