The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 8, 1901, Page 6

FroNT oF SHIRT WAIST BUTTOMNED TownN THE BAacKr THE WINTER SHIRT WAIST GIRL AND HER | WINTER SHIRT WAISTS | terials, from men’s overcoat- ing to chiffon, and are linsd or wunlined, according to her uses; but of all waists the daily and general utility one stands highest in her estima- tion, for upon this the shirt waist girl depznds for the beauty and comfort which are now he:s all the year round, with the assistance of this lit- tle garment. Shirt “sets’” and of what they con- siet—Waists. built to show the back—New belts and the latest buckles—IZat:rials just out. | They are made of all ma- : waist ! v feeT » I the shirt waist girl was a o of summer rhe is no less a fealur: of winter. Not in the glorious summer tide were there more shirt waist girls than there are to-day; and, though there is snow in the air and ice in the streets, the shirt waist flourishes in nambers and in beauty. ‘T'here is very thitte ¢ parison in good looks between the shirt waist of summer and the one of wintcr, for the latter so far ourdistances the former that it were unwize to look at the two in the same day or by the same light. The summer ghirt waist was a ifttle wash thing, some- thing to: be picked up, put on, worn a day and thrown aside for the tub, The winter shirt waist is something that is not to be tubbed, but to be worn delicateiy, wisely and well, and to be enjoyed as a staple and conventional feature of dress. Yet there are winter shirt waists that can be tubbed, The new flannel waists, made with tucked yokes and plain._bust, with buttons down the back, are fitted for washing, provided the colors be of the sort that do not fade. These waists are made without lining, there being the veriest shell of a lining from the stock downward towurd the bust, but terminat- ing just at the yoke. Even the sleeves of these walists are unlined and the cuffs are stiffened with material that will not shrink, usually with another thickness of flannel, stitched along the edges. The Wash Winter Waist. The wash flannel walist is very useful and deridedly pretty. It comes in the doe- skin flannel, in stlk flannel, in ¥French flannel and in the outing wools. It is made up in any simple way, though taste inclines toward the tucked front and back, and it is buttoned down the back. Those who do not fancy the back but- tons can make the waist with silver butes tons extending from the throat to the belt. The waist has a few side plaits for fullness just at each side of the throat, and at the walst these plaits are again laid with neat precision. There is no other trimming down the front, for the elegance of this waist depends wholly upon the general set of the collar, the way the sleeves are put in, the trimness of the back and the squareness of the coat- slpeve shoulder. A walist properly fitted on these lines is called the English waist, for it is the accepted one abroad. But it is in the trimmed waists that the shirt waist shows to best advantage, Here one sees it with all the newness of the recently invented and lately imported ol Wi A modes and upon this fancy shirt waist one expends one's admiration, for it is a thing ‘'of much beauty. A shirt waist, to tell of the handsomest first, was made of panne silk, very soft and very velvety upon the surface. Its color was the dearest rose, such a delicate shade. The yoke, for it had a deep yoke front and back, showed a covering of net lace upon wheh there was a litle silk em- broidery. To the yoke hung a deep fall of lace. The upper part of the sleeves and ths upper part of the waist were made of tha pink:panne silk with a little figure in it all studded with the tiniest steel nal heads., Around the elbows there was & band of chinchilla with a deep fall of siilc reaching almost to the wrists. The belt was a very deep band of whita satin ribben studded with steel and fas- tened at the back with three little buc- kles of steel and rhinestones. Over this belt fell a puffing of plain pink panne silk, to look like a blouse. The stock was of pink velvet and lace, Such a waist, worn bygMrs. Clarenoe Mackay, was one of the loveliest at a matinee party, and owing to its high neck and long sleeves it was wholly appropri- ate for the occasion and for the tea which followed the theater. No hat was worn with this shirt waist, but a little shouller cape with a hood that came up over i hair., The skirt was a plain black sa.in one, trimmed with a deep flounce of » .\ ¢ lace with a little pink velvet laid unlcr the lace as a heading. The Waist and Skirt, The shirt waist, while differing from the skirt, matches it in many ways. It bears a family resemblance to it in color and often in genefral style, though rarely in texture, | muumwn "”mlmm Back orF SHIRT WAIST BUTTONED powN THE BAC:\ 7 AGQUSTID In these days of choux the matter of color can always be arranged, and it is a simple thing to get color results from the judicious use of ribbon and roses, Upon tne shirt waists tnere are choux, and few are the dressy waists that do not show from one to three of them. These are made up in materials light or materi- als heavy; In mibbon, in chiffon or in vel- vet, and in the hearts of the handsomest PIRESTOT T ones there nestles the fashionabie rose, Surely there was never a season when the artificial rose was one-half as mucn sought after nor a season when it wus used in more ways. The newest chou sets show the rose nestling in the middle of the chou, and besides they show a rose dangling from the chou until it hangs at the end of a ribbon. A chou that was placed upon the bust of a gown worn by