The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 8, 1901, Page 7

the pretty Miss May Goelet recently had two narrow ribbons fastened to it, and on the other end of the ribbons there a velvet rose, dangling fully four inches below the chou. Be sure in trimming up your handsome shirt waists to use -art- ficial roses in plenty, for you get the fin- est results in that manner. hung Quite apart from the waist of flannel, or the one of handsome velvet and lace, is the winter shirt waist, which is made of corduroy and its cousin, winter velvet, This waist is for utility, and well does it serve out its self-appointed mission of wearing well. A good shirt waist of heavy., warm, dark velvet will furnish a staple article of dress for every day all winter and probably make a mountain Jacket next fall. Get Good Velvet. In buying a dark velvet shirt waist there 4s only one course open—get the best. Poor velvetl never was a bargain at any time and made up into a shirt waist it is doubly not what it seems to be. Good velvet does not ‘‘crock,” does not wear off, does not crease readily and is warm and beautiful while an inch of it re- mains. Corduroy is still more serviceable than velvet, for it has about it certain admir- able traits of durability. Where velvet “spots” corduroy does not; it can be cleaned here and there delicately with a sponge and water. It will bear hard usage and it is a little heavier than vel- vet. o The young women of New York's Four Hundred are wearing corduroy shirt waists for their tramps daily on Fifth avenue, They select the dark-green shades, buttoned down the front with big brass buttons, and they choose the strange blues, with their big army-like fastenings. There are browns, too, browns galore, In corduroys, and. the waists that are made from any of these are good. The corduroy walist is very much liked made as a Norfolk, with a wide plait each side of the middle of the back and one each side of the middle of the front, The plait is stitched upon each edge and is very flat and trim, not loose, uncertain an. baggy, as some plaits are. Corduroy is also brought under the spell of the tucker's art and is tucked. A beautiful corduroy waist, worn by Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney, was in black, = .th the uppers of the sleeves tucked as far as the elbow. The tucks were very, very small and were released only to allow the elbow room, then were resumed again to the wrist, where they were released again to make a Russian puff, below which came a tight little coat cuff, all of corduroy. The walst showed a tucked front, with the fullness of the release com- ing over the bust, then there was tucking again, the whole caught in a belt, which AN EVENING SHIRT WAIST ... - 1 was very in front, pointed by any means exaggeratedly so. Mrs. Vanderbilt’s Corduroy. Mrs.. Alfred Vanderbilt has been vear- though not ing a corduroy which was warm and pretty. The waist and skirt were alike and in a tobacco brown. The skirt was perfectly plain, except for rows and rows of stitching around the foot, and the walst was of the full blouse variety. Over it she wore the prettiest of ermine capes, coming just over the shoulders. The cape had- these “eyes’™ which mark ermine with the price mark of expensiveness. The collar was very tall, but was cut to roll back .rom the ears. Around the neck there was a band. of brown velvet put on in a half puffed, half gathered fashion, with a big bow'in front with long ends that came far below the waist. These ends were “made’ ones of velvet, cut slanting upon the ends, and widening all the way? They were lined with satin, “Made" velvet bows will be very much worn and the velvet in them must be of a very high quality. To be extremely up-to- date these velvet ends and loops, indeed the whole bow, must be satin lined, in- stead of velvet lined, and they must he large, not at all suggesting the skimpy little wvelvet bow worn upon the shirt walist a year ago. The winter shirt walst is built for the back, as the summer shirt waist {s built for the front. The summer girl wants to look attractive as she comes to meet you in the sunlight. The winter girl must look attractive at all times, in parlor and in sitting room, on dull days and bright To accomplish this she must build iirt walst for both views, front and t a few of the new waists are ua- trimmed in front except for bands, per- haps of silk, Jaid on in great circles, one circle looping the front from shoulder to shoulder, one edge of the band sewed tight, the other loose. There may be three bands of silk, one laid below the other, and slightly overlapping, as though they were tucks. This style is very much af- fected by those who like the shirt waist that is buttoned in the back. The back of such a waist may be quite elaborate with its folds of silk, its hem- stitching and its very handsome buttons which can sentinel the path between the back of the neck and the back of the belt. The trick of trimming the waist for the back view ig much noticed upon the even~ ing waists, Many of these are positively elaborate, even fussy, in the flouncings and, ruflings that fall from the neck aug from the yoke. +here is a back that is liked by those -who erfjoy the French waist. It begins, to start with the belt, with a very wide liberty satin ribbon which is hooked in the back under:a very ornate buckle. The belt in the back is very, very wide and would suggest an empire were it not for the fact that it dips upon the sides and is pulled low in front, At the back of this fancy French waist there is a litle bolero, put on the back only, for it comes only from the armpits. Then there is a little puffing of chiffor wllich falls below the bolero~and over l.hn belt all the way around; and finally - to finish at the neck there is a voke of lace with a deep lace rufie. The stock i, of course, necessary, but it is a thing that is put on afterward and which can be varied. Shirt Waist Belts. Phe shirt waist belt is a thing that de mands attention, for it {is a thing apart, like the stock., Belts spring up every day, and are every day buried and for- gotten in the depths of Mme, La Mode's caslaways, but they come to light again, anew, enjoying another existence. The belt which at this very second holds the center of the world's attention, that part of it which is interested in the winter shirt waist, is the one that has two buckles, one in the middle of the front and one in the middle of the back. This may be a shaped belt, but it must be shaped by some one who understands the how and wherefore. The buckle in the back, in the case of the belt with two buckles, is the one that is for show, It is slidden upon a ribbon and takes its place right in the middle of the back. It may be one of those long, narrow buckles which make the walist look so lengthy and slender, or it may be a more up-to-date thing. One of the very newest of the back-of- the-waist buckles looks like three buckles —and, indeed, it is three, fastened under- neath in some way. Visible there are three circular buckles caught in buckle fashion through the silk. They may be in pearls, which are so pretty, or in steel, which is so fashionable, or in silver, which is a fad with so many women. The newest convert to the silver fad is Queen Wilhelmina, who has decided that all her small ornaments shall be silver, e e Continued on Page Seven.