The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 1, 1901, Page 5

life size and tied with the narrowest of ribbons, “ A pretty feature of this bouquet is that the nosegays are “tied” with ac- tual velvet ribbons, as narrow as a cord, sewed to the silk In a sort of applique. Realism Is coming .nto gowns, Instead of seeming to wear ve are to actually wear. Buttons that, button something trim our gowns, and buckles that will un- buckle, his is noticed upon the stocks and belts, that were once fastened with an Invisible clasp underneath, while a dummy buckle ornamented the top. Now one must buckle and pull the goods through, as a strap, and make it fast with a good sharp tugging. It wears out the material sooner, but there is a fit look about it that is very altractive, In the matter of buttons, even upon din- ner gowns, one notices thelr realism, 1t there is a button anywhere you can look for a place that is to unbutton, and one of the very newest fads for dinner walsts shows wide pointed revers that lap over and button, On one siae i1s a big button and on the other a big buttonhole. When you wish to close the front of the walst 80 as to hide the vest you double the 'lnu. one over the cther, and button em, 80 in the matter of decorations, stripes and brocades, »quares, checks and plalds. Plalds are put in by actually plaiding ribbons or plalding bands of sil .cloth; and stripes are mado by using ribbon and brald In such a way as to stripe the skirt. Squares are formed in the sama way, by hand-sewing, and brocades are brocaded vislbly, either by appliqueing fig- ures upon the surface of the goods or by tracing the figures ord making them more consplcuous by outlining them with narrow ribbons, with goid cords or with sllk stitching and embroldery: An Age of Realism, “That which scems to be must be there,” is the rule in dress trimmings and In dress figures; and to get results you must put them there with needle and thread, It is dreadfully hard upen the woman who is not gifted with the needle, but she who has talent in her fingers profits by this style, for she can have that which her wealthler slster enjoys with no AN EVENING GOWN .. OF BLACA NET LACE OVER more cost than she would be willing to expend anyway upon a gown. The practical use of narrow ribbon is &s Ket only half understood. Women take old of the Paris creations and murmur, ““How beautiful!" without knowing why. An extriisite thing In claret colored taf- feta was a network of baby ribbon, which was crossed and intertwined, yvet always it preserved some semblance of a pattern, The ribbon was turned to make it lie more gracefully ke a leaf that turns in the wind, with half its side doubled under. The shirred ribbon effects cannot be overestimated. Narrow ribbon is shirred along each edge and the string Is pulled until it makes a puffing. "This is then used as a_ trimming and very beautifully it taked form In its various guises. There are .cases, In the Iimported creations, where shirred ribbon is made to look like brocade and is applied in figure form, the shirring lald side by side &nd then sep- arated to give a curious undulating effect. It would seem as though anything at all could be done if one had the small ma- terials and the patience. Picture effects In evening gowns are much more easily obtained than in gowns that are for dinners only, In the evening dress there is the candle light and the shadow to help it out, and there is also the pecullar exhilaration of night, There is something about an evening gown that {s understood by all but expressed by none. No woman but will tell you that an old gown can be made over for evening, and none but will trust to the light and the little fixings to make It presentable, Evening Stuffs, The panne materials, silk, velvet and cloth, are all very admirable for evening, There are the softer vellings, the cash- meres In very thin qualities, the can- vases of silk and albatrosses and the Oriental stuffs, all within easy cket reach of the woman who desires them. ¥or those who can claim a share of outh there are pleture gowns that are ovely in the extreme, And there s this about them, that they make & mature fig- ure look more youthful, Take an essentially evening qown—a ?l«‘- fure gown—of inexpensive liberty silk, The walst 1s made with a curlous shirred A STUD> IN PICTURESQUE HAIR PRESSING or folded effect across the front, the folds ing from side to side. The sleeves were olded in the same way, with the folds running around the arm. There was no finish to the sleeve, not even a drop of lace, but the folds encased the arms and enwrapped them in the most picturesque manner. - The neck was even more simple in de- sign, for it was made pointed, front and back, with the point as low as four or five inches beneath the chin. A very deep lace was laid around the neck and brought down to a grandmother's point in front, where it was fastened with an American Beauty rose. s Such lovely effects are obtained with Ameorican Beauties. They do not wither and, Cs'l‘)ought in the bud, ready to open, they 11 very gradually spread their leaves, until at midnight they are lovely and decorative in the cxtreme and just suited to their work of adornment, when flowers other than the American Beauty would have begun to wither, The skirt of such a gown as this, with walst folded In horizontal folds, may have tucked hips, while the skirt flares and be- comes very modern around the foot, hav- ing that great sweep which is so much de- sired nowadays. Long Frail Skirts. For evening occasions, whether for dancing or for full dress receptions, the train 1s worn and the consequences en- dured. The long frail skirt with its frou frou of silk flnum‘lngs. its cascades of chiffon rufflings, its billows of lace and its swish-swish of delicate net, its lace and diaphanous creatlion—all lies upon the floor ready to be stepped upon, It 18 a season of rulnous consequences and many a woman comes home with train in tatters, while to his home goes a man disgraced, The matter of the deli- cate long train was seriously discussed in a Fifth avenue mansion not long ago, with the result that all decided that it was necessary, though a thousand pitics On an occasion, immediately following, the house was crushed witlhr guests, and lying in their court stateliness upon the floor, occupylng more space than the uests, were the winding trains, serpen- ining thelr lengths batween the very feet of those who came and went, The great sash and the small sash are both here. - The former is made out of . wide ribbon, liberty or two faced. satin, and is brought around the waist and krotted on the side. If it is an empire sash, and there are many such this year, it is knetted a little bit higher than the walist, and the ends hang long and low. The loops are rather short and stand out quite stiffly. The short loop is characteristic of the mew sash. It stafis out at right angles to the ends and has something of the prim look of an old-time sash ribbon. Miss Alice Roosevelt, who is genera'ly & very mature young lady in her style of dress, wore a rew days ago a sash tied. in the back with loops and ends, in a very ish fashion. The ends were wide and ung low. They were cut, not slanting, but rounded, and were very pretty in their broadness, unrelieved by a particle of decoration. The Evening Sash. A sash with embroidered ends was worn by a Brooklyn beauty, who tied it in the back with short loops £nd let the ends trail upon the skirt of her gown to the very floor. The chiffon sashes arve very desirabi and much can be done with them, One o these consists of a wiith of chiffon with a little double white Satin ruching upon each edge. e ruchung was carred around the tire length of the chiffon. The sash was then tieg in a very easy fashion, or, rather, wasS not tied at all, but merely crossed and fastened with a pretty pin. In all the plcture gzowns and other gowns a change i8 noted in the treatment of the front of the waist. No more is it brought down to a dcep point, but the point, while decided, is inclined to be shallow. Occasionally there is no point at all, but a rounding effect. The point is produced not so much by pulling down the material in front as by shortening the back. The waist or belt is ulled up a little in the middle of tte ack, and the back is made rounding and broader. The front is then pressed low and thus the point i§ secured, The French, who claimed to be the first ones to introduce the pointed front, now disclaim it to a certain effect. Sald a fa- mous French dressmaker: “We are responsible for the elongated waist and the straight front corset, but that is all, “The day when the glump woman--the womian with no waist—began to pull down her bodice in front and to fasten it low saw the decline of the long point in Paris, We observed that the world was not copy- ing us but exaggerating us, and Wwe stopped short, The Long Point. ' “The blouses that were worn by women of too redundant avoirdupois were posie tively grotesque, They imagined that they could pull down their blouses half way to their knees in front and look slender, Some of the results obtained by this treatment were abnormatly ugly and the beauty loving French shuddered and turned away their eyes." . L