The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 17, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 17, 1898. LATRST THING IN FOOTWHAR. HE latest thing T in the way of footwear is the rthopedic bo o t. Y Accustomed as any lady is to 1ne pointed toed shoe ade on a curved last, the new boot Appe s at first ungainl But tue doctors declare that once used to them they will prove not < a thing of joy but beauty forever. For once Dame not re- a new MODEL OF A SHOE THAT IS GUARAN- TEED TO FPREVENT “FLAT-FOOT." PHY- SICIANS IN EASTERN 1 form the al {nstep their pro ion, produc in that is ex- sink Br paintul, HOSPITALS ARE BE- 5 GINNING TO ORDER fo0t it i lrl‘t';l' THE NURSES TO 0ot intoan ungainly » member that aighi WEAR THEM. THE ong to a field dar- AL_AUTHORI- of the South. TIES HERE ARE DIS- is sinking of the CUSSING THE MAT- s {s produced TER. ausce theshoesare lasts curved on both sides, line of the foot is straight . This unnatural curve forces At toe out of position toe is of more lue in walk- 1l the other toes put together, it Is forced into an unnatural s {mpossible for it to perform ses of ous when the square toe was the vog: for, although the shoes were made o & curved last, the strain on the big toe was not so great. When the pointed toe be- ame the rage doctors predicted direful equences, and their prophecies have en realized. The *“orthopedic boots,"” which are made by hygienic bootmakers, follow the natu- outline of the foot; that is, the boots follow a straight line on the, inside and a curved one on the outside. In one of the largest hospitals in New York City there is a stringent rule de- manding that all nurses employed wear | astery. flat foot” were bt so numer- | shoes of this description. The muscles of the feet are given full play, the great toe is allowed to properly fulfill its ‘duties, and thereby a decided increase in freedom and el; ty is gained. There is a° movement on foot to estab- lish the same rule in the Children's Hos- pital in this city. All the physicians of that hospital wear the new boots, and are constantly inducing their patients to fol- low their examples. One of the leading physicians, when asked about the new boot, sald: “If we can get people to wear them perhaps in another generation feet will have re- sumed their natural ape. The distor- tions produced shoes made on the fashionable last are not only hideous but absolutely incompatible with light, easy walking and a graceful carriage. ‘There would be less of ‘that tired fecling’ If properly cut shoes were worn. There IS a post in the shoe that must be worn un- til the big toe resumes its natural posi- tion. The post is so placed In the shoe as to force the great toe to make a straight line with the foot, and Is placed \wfl\"'ocn the great toe and the second one. The doctors say that we must choose between properly cut shoes and “flat- foot. ‘Which shall it be? PRINCES WHO ARE MONKS. In the wildest and most desolate part of the Black Forest is to be found the most aristocratic monastery in the world. Almost every monk who has here sought ghelter from the world is of noble or princely rank, and many are the bearers of historic names who have done their part in molding history. One of the most devout and humble of all its inmates is Prince Philip of Hohen- lohe, at one time one of the chief orna- ments of European courts; and - Princ Edward Schonburg-Hartenstein fulfill; some of the lowliest duties of the mon- Tather John.is the Baron von Drafs, who shone so brilliantly for a_time at the court of Baden; and Father Sebastian is Baron von Oer, one of the m dash- ing soldiers in the SaXon army. Among other nobles who have deserted the sword for the cowl are Count de Memp- tirine and Baron von Salis-Soglio. All the menial work of the monastery is done by these titled monks, who are con- tent to exchange their brilliant spheres for a life of solitude and the most rigid discipline. Henry de Windt, the famous globe- trotter, says: *I have roughed it for the past fifteen years in Siberia, Borneo, and [aChinese Tartary, but I can safely de- seribe my climb over the Chilkoot Pass }’fl the severest physical experience of mv HE illustrations represent nearly | all the st i including | outdoor and evening costume, ball | and house dresses, mantles and | garments for morning and even- cape and cycling costume. Here is a criticism on them: If the form of the marone crape dress is simple, it Is stylish and becoming, but | 1 0. The bits of taf- nd white are not pleas- 1 should preferred a | ing in e trimming of taffeta s, a light passementerie or eve ne guipure following the movement of the corsage and of the upper skirt, and also as a trimming for the sKirt, The shape of the black cloth jacket is graceful in form, but the collar, which is very high, swells thé appearance at *he neck. The trimming behind is more be- coming than that in front, and I would rather not have had the square yoke of white taffetas. The mastic cloth cape with four flounces is quite in the new shap~ which I do not consider graceful, and which should never be made except in light and soft mate- | rials. The collar is unbecoming, wh the case with all collars worn. The cycling costume should be—piain, practi exactly what it al and in very or dress of stripe too much of the ppearance, which is in the sketch, is minimi parent nature of the materis 1 h like a ¢ would rather see a waistband round the figure. The white spangléd tulle dress is pret- tily composed, and by removing the gulmpe it can be converted into a de- collete dr with long sleeves. The only thing I dislike Is the rosette on the left gide of the corsage. It appears to me heavy and useles I would prefer a small bunch of pink roses. In a tall woman the arrangement of the skirt does very well, but for a short figure 1 would ad the suppression of the frill of mousseline de soie around the bottom. There is no particular feature about the cut of the green velvet mantle. The richness of the Japanese embroidery alone and the harmony of the colors constitute its beauty. The sleeves, cut in at the wrists, appear to me rather heavy. I would have liked them better fuller and longer over the hands. The gown by Honnet, 9 Rue de la Paix, is an.outdoor dress in marone crepon, in the China crape style, with a double skirt. The underskirt is rounded at the bottora, flat in front at the top, and very ughtr?mlng at the sides. The fullness is thrown behind, and the godets, which be- gin half way down, are behind only. Thie skirt is quite plain at the bottom, and opens in the center of the apron all the way down, showing a narrow band of striped and shot ecru marone and white taffetas, the stripes of which run cross- wise. This trimming IS very narrow at the waist and widens gradually. The upper skirt is set in without fullness at the waist and widens gradually down to the bottom. It runs about half way down each side in front, where it is rounded, and is prolonged behind to about forty centimeters from the bottom, giving the appearance of a tail when seen from behind. It is ornamented on each side in front with eight oblong pieces of striped taffetas like that on the underskirt, one above another. The corsage is a blouse of the same material gathered at the waist, and with two pleats on each side, which are lost beneath the walstband. It opens down the center over a front of striped and shot taffetas in two bands whicl ngegr to form one with the trimming of the apron. The front is trimmed on each| side with the same material. The neck trimming is of orange taffetas covered with heavy gmfpure and Is very wide; the collarette s of guipure. The waistband is of I)Inln marone taffetas fastened on the left side with a bow of the same. The sleeves are made with small puffs at the shoulders, but are tight fitting all down the arm. On the outer side are three small squares of striped taffetas. The wrists are trimmed with guipure. The hat which completes this costume is of yellowish marone velvet; it is a toque, trimmed with a drapery of chiffon, high- est on the left side; a white feather en- circles the crown and there Is an aigrette set in a strass buckle. On the brim in front there is a barrette of strass. At Redfern’s I have seen an indoor | dress of white mousseline de sofe striped printed This de: 1 silk, on wnich are green and mauve chrysanthemum: light and transparent material over an independent dress oL w fetas. The dress is rather long and made in one plece from top to bottom, and slightly gathered over a voke of spotted tulle embroidered with violets in Tom Thumb ribbon. Round tne yoke is a Greek pattern embroidered in narrow gathered ribbon. The skirt is perfectly straight all down and i{s edged round the bottom with twa ‘rows of embroidery worked in narrow ribbon. waistband of mauve taffetas can, if desired, be tied round the figure, cither over the mousseline de soie, whi would convert the i or the taffetas d the mousse show ss confined at the waist. The ing is of white d_with bouquets and collarette is of 1 round tne back and sidesonly neck quite free in front. small draperies at the r which are epaulets of white ne de soie embroidered with Greek gns like those round the voke. Immediately beneath the drapery is a circlet of embroidery on each arm. The sleeves are quite tight from the elbow to the waist, very long and em- broidered with Greek designs to the wrists. 4 1 also saw a pattern of an_evening mantle in green velvet plush. This gar- ment is made with a yoke, from which the body falls straight down in front and at the forming pleats, which widen gradually the way. . The yoke is trimmed with braid in undulating diag- onal lines, forming chevr in front. The front is ornamented dow ach side with broad garlands in Japanese embroidery, the designs being composed of chrysan- themums and lotus with follage in their natural colors. The sides and back are quite plain. The mantle is gathered round the yoke and is very full, £0 as to leave plenty of room for evening dress. The collar is ex- tremely high behind, lower the sides and completely sloped away in front. It is embroidered like the yvoke and edged with a narrow, fluffy ruche of black mousseline de soie. The sleeves are in shape like those of children’s blouses, gathered at the inset and full all down. At Giles’, 17 Avenue de I'Opera, I have seen a dress of large meshed Paris tulle over a skirt of white poult d- soie. The skirt has a broad apron embroidered with flowers in white silk and bright biack spangles, and between the flowers large spots of chenille at irregular distances. The apron is cut into scallopg round the bottom and detached from a flounce of plain tulle, frilled. The right side and back breadths of the skirt resemble the ground of the apron; the left side is com- posed of plain tulle finely pleated. The skirt is flat at the top in front and gath- ered b&hind and at the side. It is rounded at the boitom a-d rather long. The corsage is a blotse, cut low and square and gathered at the wafst. The decollete is edged with black velvet, which is continued into braces both be- fore and behind, and is edged with a ruche or white tulle spotted with black chenille. The body of the corsage matches the apron. At tne fall of the left shoul- der is a large rosette of white tulle. The neck trimming is a broad piece of black velvet riblon simply draped; the waist- band of the same ribbon, not very wide, ‘I;\sbened behind with a small straight OW. running aving the % Rl i, FASHIONS FOR SMALL PUKSES HE really healthy looking wom: ,, man, office or store is so much the exception that one cannot but won- der if the tired, fagged-out condi- tion may not be due to lack of care of the bodily health,”and particularly to stiff corsets and heavy skirts hanging from the waist. If a woman stands or sits nr-rerly she will not require, as so many tell me they do, the support which a corset gives. A girdle with straps over the shoulders, ending about turee inches above the walist, relieves all pressure, which cer- tainly contracts and weakens the vital organs. Tapes buttoned to the skirts keep them from slipping down and remove the weight from tue waist to the shoulaers. Try one. and see how cramped a corset enscooo0 3000 <3 makes you by the fezling of ease, and how quickly that dragged-out weariness will disappear, and you need not look shapeless, eithers To keep the skirts and separate walists together, a contrivance has made its ap- pearance on thé coast. Consisting of a flexible metal belt, about an inch wide, and hooks sewed to the skirt, it is a puz- zle how, but it does keep that difficulty \\il‘lll in order, and is perfectly comfort- able. Leather belts will be worn, but a pret- tier, newer design is two yards of satin ribbon, four inches wide, to match the skirt or harmonize with the tie. Pin one end securely in front and p: the other around the waist, tucking the other ; hold it in place with a fancy pin. Hats are literally loaded witn flowers, some of the smalléer ones being made en- tirely of smaller flowers and leaves for the crown and brim. Roses wired Into aigrettes form high trimming on one side. Purple and white violets use. together will be very popular, as will also very natural Scotch heather, tiny forget-me- nots, roses, cornflowers and poppies. Some of the hats set so far down on the head as to give the effect at first of being too big for the wearer, worn down to shade the face and turned up in the back over a mass of uowers. Others, how- ver, are worn back over the face; the old fashioned poke bonnet so becoming to our grandmothers is among these. Ties, too, so becoming to some faces, are to be worn again in big bows at the throat. Bows separate from the bonnet are very popular, indeed the bigger the bow the better. Tt is distinctly a ‘‘one-color” season; that is, the gown and hat and gloves match instead of harmonize as has been the fashion so long. Beware, however, of the chiffon and tulle tucks and folds and ties which are so soft and becoming. One good California fog will reduce them to a thing to be replaced. Although it is so pretty, ‘chiffon is a thing to be avoided by an economical woman, for it so quickly puts on the ‘“‘soiled dove’ air. In trimming, baby velvet and satin rib- bon are used on every material, in rows and clusters in different but harmonizing colors, or all in one color. After a day of work abroad the great comfort of home is a wrapper, and its saving in wear on the street dress will soon make it pay for itself. Challie makes a most serviceable and retty house dress at a gost of 2, with perhaps another dollar for lace and ribbon. A (lainty, pretty gown was made from challle at six cents a yard, eight yards being used. Cut with a seam down the back, the front opened from the left shoulder to the bottom. The entire dress was lined with five-cent cambric and bound around the neck, which had no other collar, and down the front with white wash silk, a crush belt of the white ending in a rosette at the under arm seam, belted In the back, leaving the front loose, being held in place by tapes sewed on the inside and tied in front. Challie is warm and light in weight and washes well, coming in beautiful patterns from fifteen cents to seventy-five cents. 1 or dressing sacgues, too, it is much pret- tier and quite as serviceable as the flan- nelette, which is clumsy and loses its beauty at the first wash. —_——— ORGAN MUSIC AND BACH. Organ music reached ‘its climax with “Bach; it may, pérhaps, be said that all music did. At any rate, one thing is cer- tain—viz., if there has been any progress in music since tne day of Bach it has been due to him. Bach’s music is poly- phonic; and polyphony is true music. To its foundation upon this school is due the fact that there has been no decadence in music in Germany. * * * There has been no_advance in polyphony since the days of Bach. Such advance as has been made has been in originality and boldnes: of modulation. For pure organ music, Bach still {s and probably will always remain the greatest of all composers. Even with all the mod- ern mechanical appliances that have been attached to the organ, his works are still very difficult—perhaps the most difficult of organ compositions. He must have been as great an organist as he was a composer. That he should have been able to play upon the organ of his day works so exacting In technique as his own is Slmpli, marvelous. It is one of the phenomena of musical history that, while orchestral operatic and other branches of music were in_their infancy in Bach's day, and have devel- oped since then, Bach brought organ | music tq its climax. 8 27 SAGRIFICED L [RK For a LILY OCIETY women who use the dead- 1v arsenic wafer for th plexion are increa: ‘'ng in numbers, dccording to a prominent phy- sician of this city. Thougt a:-enic is known to be harm- ful, “madame of society” forgets this in her earnest search for something to take the place °f the legendary Foun- tain of Youth. When .the first tiny crow’s feet begin to appear she is sud- denly reminded to take stock of her charms. Late hours, rich food and want of proper exercise have done their work. The muddy complexion must be driven away, but not at the sacrifice of social dissipations which sum up her happiness. Somebody in her set sug- gests arsenic. “But it's poison?” “Qh, no. Don’t take too much of it. It is large doses you should guard against.” A few weeks pass before the effects of the slow poison are visible. The clouded skin has gradually given plate to whiteness. No unpleasant symptoms result for a long time, and the consumer of arsenic waters is thrown off her guard. When the evils do c-me she does not for a moment attribute them to the proper source. The first effects of the arsenic wafers is to gradually destroy the small blood vessels in the skin; therefore unnatural whiteness, which a delicate rouge is called in to relieve. Long continuation of the use of arsenic brings many ills in its train. The digestive organs be- come sadly out of order; loss of appe- tite follows, and madame finds her body is wasting. She sits before her dress- ng-table and gazes sadly at her white, attenuated countenance, with its fast- increasing defects. Late -hours and jmprudent eating all get the blame. Her physician is not informed of tha arsenic wafers and other prescribed drugs therefore increase the disturbed state of the system. Convulsions, loss of sleep, headaches, rapid heart action, delirium and other terrible symptoms are the result often of a continuation of the habit. ‘Worse calamity of all, madame’s lily- white skin, like the flower it resembles, is not lasting in its fairness. If she is wise enough to guess tle cause of her illness and confesses it to her medical com- | WDHITE FECE adviser, she may be relieved. But she will by that time have destroyed her | appearance to such an extent that she | will never regain what she has lost. | SINCE MAN TURNED COOK. | s S | “Who knows,” the new woman cries to= “But T was somewhat hasty When' I forswore the married state? Some men can turn out tasty And tempting dishes when they try; And matrimony’'s looking Less prisonlike, I must confess, Since men have turned to cooking. “Should we for single blessedness, Beloved sisters, thus band | Against the solid comfort and Convenience of a husband Who'd minister to each with cups f timely tea? Nay! Frates, Come bake and broil for us and watex Our lares and penates! “When from the pulpit or the bar, Or busy mart or bucket Shop, weary ivoman comes at night, ‘What most uncommon luck it Would seem to find a man around Who'd keep the kettle boiling, And incidentally could keep Her temper, too, from spoiling! “Oh, man’s improving, there's no doubt, And soon he'll put a stitch in Decadent stockings now gnd then, As well as mind the kitchen! To-day I'm more than half inclined Toward Love, wno's gayly crooking His finger, beck’'ning me to turn To man, who turns to cooking!” oston Globe “I thought you said you were going to show me a rare and valuable dog!™ exclaimed the uninitiated man. “I am going to, sir,” replied the dealer, apologetically, as he gave a poodle to an employe. “We haven't had time to shave him and leave bunches of hair here and 'there.”— ‘Washington Star. —_—e————— “Sp you are going away, Mrs. Rush- orre “Yes; we are going to move to Ken- tucky for a few weeks until my hus- band gets to be called ‘colonel,” and then we shall go to Washington to live.”—Chicago Record. ——e————— The average speed of a carrier pigeon in calm weather is 1210 yards a minute. With a strong wind in the direction of flight some pigeons have covered 1980 yards a minute. l