The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 21, 1897, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCIS CO CALL, SUND AY, NOVEMBER 21, 1897 AS HOLIDAY SEASON APPROAGHES) FAIR DAME FASHION Numerous have been the tens. s, dinners and dances erjoyed dur er will be for every one is il engagements. to the doll sts two the owded de a food e recepti and what thi n co’s most charm- I keep away However, 1 and the dance 1 later in the of delightful | is being ful- e passed since | » winter. eady seen the de- _seven a sufficient num- kes her debut) wil y the fi both b fect butantes of ni times e iest, the prettiest, ana although to be who combine both zentle wit; however, in due be sharply drawn be- d the mere buds. But are, most of them, very attractive, and their arcely be improved upon— cations are they of musiin sion > wil as far are snowy white and tucks, insertions and ed. To besure some of ave ribbon or satir. edges, cks are built over silk or tin, s the ng te muelins and organdies sway, but at the balls, wt lace, both file round the bot- . mousseline de soie or organdy. | recep- | bail (at | REJOIGES effect of eff:ctive. The new weav: its stripes consi ered quite | of pleated satin is not | expensive and will form fronts of bodices | ana entire skirte, Most oi the weaves I 1 bave mentioned may be found hera. Our merchants who cater to the taste of | our most stylish maids and matrons {have an unusually fine and complete | stock, from which all may select this | ave arrived at a conclu- | consisting m which falls white and the and the foundation of a pale sbade of is made roand, the The bodic n almost a circle. . and gloves, as well as slip- of ithe same tone. as though fashion's decree, ry maiden should wear white makes her debut, is almost uni- v observed, but mothers no longer ughters so garbed during season, as they used to do hite, unrelieved by touch of color, is positively unbe- ug to some complexions and color- for the iater affairs ted and some ‘be worn with excelle we have all admired the be usselines which temptations ae have been by our ut likewise werthy ration are the Laces and Trimmings. tely, ble width. On work is done in heavy silk, out- go!d, on others appear several nsartions, sewed on at d worked with gold ¢ work of tinsel. 1 black lisse is to bs seen covered floral designs in naturai colorings, which runs much tinsel and nar- h with such dre of 1 the same. signs that work are effective whei iutely to figure on Tne dark ones are applied to and of a bright hue to This means very little to t reader, but those who are skiil 1 be more than surptised y can produce by For example, ome black ccs- aturdzy. ui edlewomen w effects tb se of tremely hav ze a last e waist was most artisticaliy trimmed beauty of which was greatiy lication of some fine n the East the bright in this manner their but also embroider pileces that do duty as hat or wvne. You will all likewise e ed in knowing that there is shown make of | e, t enh rate e One of the greatest discussed is a fine white are appiiqued black Chan- flowers. Sprays of black, white, or flowers are being manufactured ex- ressly to meet the demand, bus if you sess some bad!y wornout lace that is no longer worth having mended you may rom it be able to secure some good sprays be made to adorn an excellent of an ola form of embroidery celike design made in a darned pat- e. This appears not only on but on lappeting insertion as well wi e waved edges. Much of the black lisse employed Imost completely th tapestry designs. nount of heavy embroidery with sllops, especielly prepsred to the edge of flounces, 1s being tured. Much is in a Holland asserted that bands of black which are worked silver al, will be used with ny of the handsomest i in ttes. ne has been speaking in praise beautiful gauzes, chiffons and lines de soie. Some sparkle with 1 vn on in regular spote, in lines, leaves and any number of de- ¥ odd are many of the silk They may be hard vrinted in ades with pronounced patterns, s they are checked. Others covered with irregular white ch shades as mauve, pink and sh Mousselines de soie are woven as both shots and gleces, and the satin mousseline is of a thin make and glistensdike Roman satin. Many have broche spots. Well liked are th- zes checked with mauve, white and yellow. The mousseline brocades show embroid- ered spots in black and white on light colors and in self shades. The shaded mousseline de soie produces an outre Creamy roses | =1 | | 13 to be | Japed pieces, or | | | just the correct amount of o'd yel- | | so many of the nature of | | effect produced if worn in the brignt sun- | season, and Tcan speak with authority, having made a thorouzh examination. The Latest Models for Capes. One regal garment of dark sables reaches twelve inches below the waist line. It is! FASHIONABLE a gorgeous mauve brocade. of the sable, wondgerfull the cape. At the nec ceparate from the cape, pleated mauve velv t the back are similar loops, and at the sides are steel ornaments sewed upon the pleated band. The collar is so high that it comes within a few inches of the hat brim. lined with Three band plied, encircle a bow, made The velvet collar I have just described is an extremely fashionable model, such being worn with seal or caracul jackets | whenever there is 2 high fur collar. The prune shade, so raved over during | last month in Paris, has been discarded by the elegantes, whoare now wearing the ycacock’s eye,” which is quite the { loveliest blue imaginable—something of the shade seen in old pastels, at pres- ent it is almost impos-ible to find even ir New York, and out of veivet of this shade | has been evolved the mos: exquisite cape seen this winter in Paris, and that is say- ing a great deal. The velvet is gauged and on it are four undulating bands of sable, sewn on like | .ittle flounces. Down the front | is a jabot of sable, arranged just as we would handle lace. The outside of the collar. which fits the throat closely and then flares out, is of the gauge! velvet, the lining being of sable. Satin of a shade | matching the velvet lines the cape. A Toque. At Chantilly two weeks ago was noted “‘a black velvet toque, bordered with ermine, A white waving osprey and a couple of bunches of violets completed the trim- | ming. This hat looked well on a very tail | woman robed in black velvet, braided with wide black lines upon blouse-bodice, sleeves and skirt. The only color intro- | duced into the costume was in a turquoise ! collarette and band, the stones arranged in squares, leaving here and there a space | connected with chains.” The private prediction concerning hats is that by January in New York and Paris they will be worn wide and flat on tie face, trimmed hizh at the back with many feathers that will somewhat recall the ! Directoire period. Dress on the Stage. There is no disputing the fact that the | great actresses of the day, both directly aud indirectly, set the fashions, for long ago it ceased to be correct for an actress | to wear, even when ou the stage, a theat- rical-looking costume. To be sure, many people prefer to have the colors somewhat subdued when baving a star's street gown reproduced, simply because waaring any combination on the stage under the artifi- cial lhights is quite different from the | { light. So our most beautifully zowned | women do not hesitate to obtsin mahy charming ideas from the creations that | frequently adorn the stage; therefore, the fashion writer is not thoroughly up to| date who does not report carefully the ! latest gowns noted, not only on the stage | in this country but in London and Paris as well. d At the present moment at the Vaude ville in Paris two voung and graceful women, Mile. Jahne and Mlie. Carlux, are wearing gowns and hats liked in that critical capital. In the first act Mlle. Jahne is seen in a | fine cashmere cloth of the new blue-violet shade. Ruchings of ve vt trim it. On the | bodice isa single rever of handsomely | | of ¢ | tens with a steel le | this becom embroidered velvet. It crosses atthe side. | Toward the front the skirtis very slightly raised, so as to reveal a petticoat of lilac silk. With this toilet she wears a mar- quise-shaped hat, covered with knots of prune velvet, one larrer than the others forming the aizrette with the addition of heron's feathers. The second confection is a traveling cos- tume in beige. The back of the bodice is shape | something likea bolero; in front it crosses. The effect is quite original. The cioth is cut in ribbon arabesques over s The satin shows wherever the cloth cut away. Accompanying this frock isa biege belt, trimmed with velve: HEADDRESS. choux, in white and orange. Indeed the chou is enjoying again quite a vogue. Mlle. Jahne’s third dress is of a green- ish shade of gray, covered with narrow tucks of the meterial that open at the back and in front like a low bodice over a white chemisette, inserted with torsades ! velvet. The beit is white and fas- buckle. The hat is of and b'ack ostrich plumes. 1 is a pordering of wide black velvet Beneath the b zold br Quite she first aid. charming is Mlle. Carlix \\'hen“ comes on in ‘Jalouse”’ wearing a cloth; the bodice is crossed with w revers over a chemisette of gray mousseline de soie finely pleated. Scarlet chieniile and roses covered with tulle of | hade compose her hat. d likewise is a gray-green cloth dress dotted with green velvet wafe Only the bodica 13 of the fancy material, and it is worn inside the skirt, attached by means of a green velvet sasb ribbon, tied in a large bow in the center of the back. The skirt, of plain cloth, is laid in largesun pleats. Mademoiselle’s large | hat of black velvet and plumes, with a steel bow, is said to suit her perfectly. A plain skirt, over green silk, wouid make a pretty | and sensible frock, but oh, I am so weary o! black velvet hats; however, more about them iater on, for I must at once en- lighten my readers concerning the con- | ctions being worn at the Nouveautes in Paris in *'Les Potites Folies."’ Mile. Demarsy’s Toilets. In the first act she wears a beautiful dinner dress of yellow brocade elaborately cmbroidered with gold, covered h an overdress of creamy lace. An artistic!| scarf of tulle starts from the shoulder, at- tached with a diamond ornament. On her second appearance she is most picturesque in a visiting costume of a pale vastel biue cloth covered with embroid- erics of the same hue outiined with a tiny ilver thread. With this dress is worn a gold belt inlaid with many colored stones. Her third toilet o1 white cloth is braided with chenille and wool. A purple cloth Directoire stcoat gives a chic finish to g dress. At the Shakespeare Theater isnow be- ing given a “'Royal Divorce.” In it Miss Edith Cole takes the part of the Empress Josephine. One of her gowns is ol ean de nil moire velours. It has a ‘drawn peari-edged collar of ivory chiffon, that extends, in three deep points, out from the skoulders. 1t is so stiff that I con- sider it quite hideous. The ruched sleeves of the chiffon are strapped with pearls. In front of the gown is an elaborate garni- ture of paaris that falls in a fringe-like effect beiow the waist-line. The chiffon is al-o used for long searf ends that fall from where the collar beginsin front to the bottom of the dress, the ends being finished in an odd way. The wide chiffon is drawn into a ball, at the bottom oi which iz a sor: of ruche., A deep and very pretty ruche edges the skirt. This actress is also seen attired in an Empire pelisse of gray tengaline, with white feather ruche at the hem, beaced with some fine steel embroid:ry. It has three fuli capes lined with white satin and treated in the same manner as the bottom of the garment and the top of the bodice is completed by & band of black velvet, apparently beld in piace by means of a bandsome buckie. Witn this cloak goes a hanging pocket of black velvet and a | givers, picture hat of white felt, black velvet and white plumes. Beatrice Lamb Dress and Cloak. Miss Lamb has been wearing in “White Heather'’ an Empire dress of bright yel- low satin. The front of the bodice is decorated with a rather elaborate passe- menterie of pearls, goid and crystal set in festoons. At the top, however, the apron, although exccllent, is not regarded with so much interest as the beautiful cloak worn over it. This is lined throughout with ermine, made of a pale yellow bro- cade, upon which white roses disport themseives proudly; the cleeves are square, hemmed with ermine; the high co'lar is entirely made cf ermine, and when it rests on a scarlet sofa in a scarlet room tie effect is a joy 10 the eve. The Thanksgiving Tables. Already almost every post is bringing that near at hand are the holiaays, and of course they go on to tell the charms of ex- quisite china, to expatiate on the beau- ties of some rare etchings that we have been longing to posse-s, and so on indefi- nitelv until we find it indeed difficult to resist the manifold temptations offerea on every side. The Thanksgiving tables are indeed well | will give a brief description of some of the most attractive features. The first table | is spread for the soup course, the old | Union-pattern china in blue and white being used, the candelabras repeating ana pretty as anythiug you can imagine; sure to come to the conclusion thatyou | positively must own everything on it. One of my friends not only possesses sucn a set of china, but also a rarely lovely | dining-room repeat this tone of blue, and | on the mantel and the walls are the most | delighiful plaques of *‘old blue” china. | For a country home it would be hard to find a more dainty combination. The table laid for the roast course is rich in coloring, the Haviland plates be- gold, The great lamp, standing in | center, is simply gorgeous in design effect, for damask roses and velvety aniums flourish on its globe and no beautiful is the body of the lamp. Under such bright rays how could any dinner party be a faila Just remember the new theory, the ana ger- dinner- A certain that the spirits of your guests are | things, for I quite believe a story I heard | about a dinner given by a hostess who had the globe of the lamp as well as the fairy lights all match her gown, which was of a pale, ghastly shade of green. Scon the guesis fell under the spell of the color. First they felt coldly strange toward one another, and then all, in the most natural way in the world, began 10 relate ghost stories and tales of weird adventure. The result was that all had dyspepsia and privately declared, later, never been at such a spooky dinner. But to return to the gayly dressed table. Crimson flowers adorned the center, and i the glasses gleamed like great rubies pioked out with gold, Fancy, presiding over such a course, a dusky-haired, dark- eved beauty, gowned in black anu crimson, with just @ circlet of rubies round her throat, ana a damask rose caught in her i air. Yellow chrysanthemums nodded from tall, slender vases of the richest cutglass, and the lovely iamp, likewise of crystal, is relieved with here and there atouch of gold, and the soft yellowisn tone of the globe give the iigiit the most becoming effect possible. The wine- glasses, as well as the goblets, are lovely in shape and design. The game set is of equal artistic merit and the bread and butier plates, indeed, everything that zoes with it, are of tne finest and choicest, the erystal used be- ing of exceptional beauty. But of all ta- bles, the one on which all the de-sert plates are is the hardest to turn away from without ordering at least one oi the exquisite plates. To be sure, they cost $325 a dozen, but then who would hesi- tate to part with a few hundreds could they afford to purchase such lovely pro- ductions? A single piate would make a most acceptable gift for a bride, or at yuletide no woman worthy of the name could fail to appreciale such a remem- brance. The midnight supper recalls Welsh rare- bits, and the quaint tankards certainly suggest beer. 1n fact, there is a jolly fes- tival air hovering over all that more than that they bad | worth a visit of inspection, but for those ! who must be deprived of that pleasure 1| biue and white lamp. The walls in her | ing bordered with crimson, outlined with | less | to be of the happiest, as well as other | combination as well as the candles and | their shades that are as wrinkly, crinkly | Dest. though right beside itare a dozen and could you see this table you would bz | hints at the possibilities of a gay evenine. The dear little table, that looks all ready for luncheon, is just as pret'y as can be, with its pale-hued, delicate bouillon cups, its fascinating fuiry lights, and its finishing touch of snowdrops made us think how perfect it would be for a debutante iuuch party. The only fault I bave to find concern- ing this display is that it is not more ex- tensive. Oun ail sides of the room in which the tables are exhibited are shelves on which are arranged some of the handsomest cut as well as Bohemian glass to be found anywhere. All purses can be suited, but in purchasing take my advice and if you have only a small sum to spend let your choice alwavs be an article as perfect as possibie of its kind. M ARCELLA. A Notionflen. At Dos Alamos, a tiny settlement in the | us gay and artistic booklets reminding us | Salt River Valley, near Phenix, thereisa | fine yose-comb white leghorn hen—one of the most industrious birds ever known— that will make her daily contribution to the product of the chicken yard under no circumstances unless she can find a high perch from which she can hear theegg drop. She crawls up under the rafters of her proprietor’s porch and deposits her egg in a canvas bag, with a hole in the bottom, made especially for the purpose. She makes a great deal of noise when her day’s work is completed. Then her owner comes out, unties a string at the bottom of the bag and lets the exg roll down into his hana. Fifieen other hens of the same cnis | brood will lay only in one nest. They line up and await their turn for that single | identical but unused nests. - 'Arizona’s Lladg Pros- pector. Yavapai County, in Arizona, boasts a lady prospector, who roams the hills and delves into the earth as a matter of choice. She is by no means poor. She is welledu- cated, inteilizent to a degree, accom- plished, and, in fact, a lady bred and born. Thisis Mrs. Thomas Newland, who camps in a very pretty spot near the Model mine, and has praspected the hiils for many a weary mile in a1l directions. She has located a number of very good claims and has done the assessment work on them herself. She has wealthy and influential relatives in California, Unitea States Marshal Barry Baldwin being her son-in-law. She has more pluck than a good many men. Some day capital will MODEL TEA GOWN. that you must study the color ( come her way and develop some of her scheme most carefully if you wish to be | best holdings, vut this will make no dit- | ference in her lile, she siys. Na\)ajos and Bears. T he greatest lear country in the South- west is the Navajo Indian reservation, where the bears are never hunted and may live, multiply and grow old in peace. The Navajo believes that bruin is a sacred animal and they will never kill or consent to have one killed—except under one cir- cumstance. This is when a bear has kiliet a red man and the identity of the culprit is as well established as that of the victim. Then, headed by their medicine men, half the tribe will gatherat Bruin’s doorway, humbly beg bis pardon for what is about to bappen and pray to his shade not to look for vengeancz. This done, one or two warriors will boldly penetrate the cave and kill the bear, which is then accorded a decent burial. Golors Changed.. There was a cutting affray in the Can Can restaurant at Bisbee, Ariz., last week. The combatants were Enos Wright, col- ored, and Charles Black, a Swede. Black rushed at the negro with a butcher-knife, knocking down a stovepipe in his mad fury. Proprietor Hanning rushed in, and while engaged in separating the combat- auts received a serious wound from the butcher-knife on the left hand. At last, when peace was restored, Enos Wright, who was black, was found couched in the corner, now white as a sheet from the fear of that butcher-knife, and Charles Black, who was white, stool near the fallen stovepipe, covered with soot and as black SU PERFLUOUS HAIR FREE. FREE. Is permanently removed by the Philadelphia 'l trolysis 10 - pauy, Lonobo: butiding, 1170 Mar- ket s, cor layior, rooms 2829, f with the Electric Needle, without pain orscar. $1 a half hour this month: first siiting FREE. Hours lwodr A NEW TO-DAY—DRY GOOD< ( ) §*t&!flfi$%$$$$fih*t&? www«»w&ww«mw - ¢ GIGANTIC PURCHASE ——oF—— ;;J_ACKETS AND CAPES d\. deiees o e ot S i e We have just uncased and this week place on ex- hibition in our spacious show-windows, and on sale in our great Cloak Department, a gigantic special purchase, com= prising A LEADING NEW YORK IMPORTER’S ENTIRE STOCK OF JACKETS AND CAPES, embracing an endless variety of NEW AND ARTISTIC NOVELTIES IN DE- SIGNS, SHAPES, TRIMMINGS AND MATERIALS, which we BOUGHT FOR SPOT CASH and in turn offer at | Tremendous Discounts from Actual Values! focfo sl S8 sy e oot 9 LADIES’ JACKETS! BLACK CHEVIOT CLOTH JACKETS, high collar, vers front, usual price $6, on sale a1 $3 50. o~ $3.50 35 O—LADIE‘S’ BLACK AND NA\’\V' BOUCLE CLOTH JACKETS, ot either notch or pointed storm coliar, usual price $6, on sale at $3 50 —LADIES closed re high S oo 1k, white pearl button ornaments on front, slightly on sale at $5. §3.5 $5.0 $5.00~ lined —LADIES' TAN MIXED COVERT CLOTH JACKETS, new collar, fly fronts, usuul price 6, on sale at $550. $5.0(LADIES: JACKETS, in brown and gray mixed cheviots, §5.0(—VADIES’ BLACK ASTRAKHAN CLOTH JACKETS, fronts DB lined with biack silk serge, usual price $8, on sale at $5. 85 ()()—LADIES' TAN COVERT CLOTH JACKETS, new pointed 2, storm collar, frents lined with silk serge, usual prica $8, on sale at $5. LADIES' BLACK PERSIAN CLOTH JACKETS, fronts lined with black silk serge, flv front, pointed inlaid velvet collar, —LADIES’ GREEN KERSEY CLOTH JACKETS, fly fronts $O 00 hned with ’ imperfect, usual price §12, ’ LADIES’ CAPES! —LADIES' BLACK BOUCLE CLOTH CAPES, lined with black ilk serge, <torm collar and fronts edged with xul’ usual price $6, on sale at §3 50. throaghout with black silk sere, double hox-plaited back, col- lar and fronts edged with fur, usual price $7 7, on sale at $5. LADIES’ BLACK BOUCLE CLOTH RIPPLE CAPES, lined with black silk serge, fronts and collar edged with black Thibet fur, usual price $7 50, on sale at $5. Children’s Jackets —CHILDRE neek, button front, usual price $7 50, on sale at $3. G~ =2 $5.00 usual price $9, on sale at § —LADIES' BLACK ASTRAKHAN CLOTH CAPES, colors, sizes Extra Specials ! Extra Specials ! S CHEVIOT CLOTH JACKETS, to0 12, usual price $2 50, on sale at $1 50. ot SL5 §3.5()—CHILDREN'S JACKETS, in Astrakhan cloth, assorted colors, d9.9V 7 yokeand collar bound with veivet or plain Kersey cloth, sizes & 10 10, usual price $3, on sale at§3 50, .6 0 —CHILDREN'S JACKET ', in new combination checks, epau- BALH iettes of plain Kersey clotn, handsomely trimmed witth biai 8 z23 6 t0 12, colors blue and green, usual price $8 on sale at $6. ow ready for distribution to OUR NEW CATALOGUE !5,y resty ter gistribution 1o w I be mailed free on receipt of address. in assorted -3 2 ) k3 —:h. 2 3 2 EX W = 3 % & 2 ) 1 2 _:;’:. i3 X —:"? 2 3 % g 5 2 % 2 2 > Murphy Building, Market and Jooes Streets. %5 e e ] | lode. On thelower level the heat is so very great that the men cannot work over ten or fifteen minutes at a time. Every known means of mitigating the heat has been tried in vain. Ice melts before it | reaches the bottom of the shafts. Murphy Building, ks , & Market and Joes Streets. | S iqesecfisiosis s dsifs i as night. A kinetoscopic record of this melee would be invaluable. It1s said that the hottest mines in the world are tho:e of the famous Comstock NEW WHY LACK BEAUTY? When I positively guarantee it? Skin blemishes of every sortremoved. Gray bair restored to natural color witnout any inconvenience. Ludies out of town succe:sfully treated by mail; always confidential. I c preserve vour beauty if you have ii; restore it i. you have lost it. MASSAGE $3 WORTH OF TREATMENT Free! Free! Free!| THIS WEEK I MASSAGE Its importance and proper movement, To make tlabby cheeks firm. To make thin necks plump. To fum, till and bulld up The entire face. To each purchaser all this ‘Will be laught FREE. Pimples, Blackheads, ‘Wrinkles, Freckles, Warts and Moles, Moth Patches, Coarse Pores, Positively Cured and Removed. pen uniil 8in the eveniog. TRIAL poT Ladies out of town send- * ing this ad. with 10 cents 1n stamips will recelve a book of 1nsir: ciions and abox of Skin Food aud Face Powder iree. [ -MRS. HARRISON. REMOVES' SUPERFLUDOUS. HAIR' BY THE ELECTRIC NEEDLE GUARARANTED PERMANENTLY: MRS. NETTIE HARRISON, BEAUTY DOCTOR, 40 and 42 Geary St., San Francisco. TO-DAY. FREUD’S CORSET HOUSE. Spe(:lal Sale of Corsets. 300 SATEEN PEEFECT-FITTING F MODEL COKSET, regular price §1 .w, will be ciosel out at $1. LADIE 100 DOZEN PERFECT-FITTI DRAB, reguar price £ closed out Bus- test styles of Parisian We have just received the In- tles nud Hip-Forms. 8%~ Mall orders receive prompt attention. Miusteated Catulogue mailed free, Parceis delivered free to Oakland, Alameda and Berkeley. STy M. FREUD & SON, 742-744 MarketSt.and 10-12 Grant Ave. & wr> SPECTACLE OPTICIANS #p, 10CRAPHICAPPARATUS FTTNG S&EYfULASSES SCENTIFIC INSTRUMENTS. 642 MARKET St. UNDER CHONICLE BUILDING. UPEE HAMS. GDGE, SWEENEY & CO.