The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 29, 1897, Page 27

SUNDAY, AUGUST 1597. ! 29, 27 GOWNS FOR ALL, FROM THE With the coming of the fall season comes the question of dresses for our girls, arge and small, and to renovate those of ast season and how to make those that are new. There are so many pretty designs for making dresses for girls of all ages that mothers never seem to tire of planning and making for the loved ones. | What is there in this world prettier and sweeter than a little girl with a stylish and well-fitting dress? The prevailing styles show continued favor for the blouse, much reduced sieeves and a preference for cashmere and serges oyer all other materials for adtumn wear. It has been the rule of late years to children very much after the fash- | year following. The wee legs, scarce long Taffetas and surahs run te genuine Scotch vlaids, There are €0 few magszines that give the mother the desired information in regard to dressing her boy from 2 to 6 years; hence it is not unusual to see a baby boy in pants at the tender age of two or three years. They are dressed like men merely jor convenience, when kilts and little suits of some soft material add 80 much to their infantile appearance and serve to keep them within the bounds of their years. However, as custom has decreed, dresses are discarded at two and kilted skirts are worn only for the one enough toallow of fitting, are then clothed in true masculine attire and every sug- of grown people. Therefore when it | is stated that blouses are correct the fact | is‘noticed a!l down the line, and when we | lexrn that much lace and many ribbons | 1 be worn we look 10 see mites of 4, as | well as girls of 15, bedecked after the | same manner if less lavish than their nicthers and elder sisters. The French people hold that so doing is a mistake, and Parisian models for children are lanned from the standpoint of simplic- ity, whatever else may be in vogue. As yet, in spite of our inherent love for French fashions, we have failed to follow | promotion complete. gestion of the skirt is banished forever- more. This season the brownie suit is the favorite for the first trouser and is quaint and charming as can be. The tiny jacket 1s open at the front and reveals the simu- lated vest. It is, to be sure, trimmed with braid and with buttons and is so made juvenile in its effect; but the three pleces are there, real pockets are in- cluded and the small boy feels his Later he wears evening dress and looks down upon & waistcoat that is ‘“‘make be- their suggestions. Unfortunate and ruinous as the custom | may be, our little folks are allowed less | z_mivmualuy and are too often over- | dressed. At the present time women of all ages wear youthful styles. It might be more fair to accuse the elders of usurping than to criticize fashions for the young, but the ral fact remains true none the less, simplicity might well be preached to the mothers, on whom rest the responsi- | bility of clothing our girls. School gowns should be simple above all else. Many mothers in moderate ctr- | cumstances have been made to feel the | burden of complaints from their children | because they were not so well dressed as | some others in their school. The well-to- who patroniza the public | d give this their attention, | 1 strive to overcome a custom never have occurred to them detrimental to less foriunate en. ( mothers should unite in this one | combine comfort, utility and | The ideas of dress or appear- meking marke! inroads in our Jols, and the effect is depress- erves to make the less fortunate more keenly its financial condi- ile I am writing on this subject my many years ago, and some of my readers this morn- me company for a little while, now some will feel at home, for I in a little girl of 12 years going to o/, neatly arrayed with a pretty am apron covering the entire dress h. 'Twas pretty, because of its icity. 'Twas the ordinary sacque ay made high - neck and full ves, with two broad sashes made a pretty tie in the back, a rofile of the goods or of a lace was the finish for the neck and sleeves; in a cool climate plaids, either as an entire o<tume or in combination, make an ex- the additional merit of wear The cashmere made with accessories of aterials 1s aurable, suitable for the juse waist. fr t with chemisette be- se are dressy and ef. ther elaborate and fussy s are so far in- door gowns Street cosiumes, ed. The former universally; the blouse or jacket. |in the w The latest blouses | « ported models for | of | lieve,” but for the time peace and con- tentment reign. The emancipation from petticoats is complete and personal dig- nity is assured. At the mature age of 5 he acquires even- g dress, and with it a genuine waist- coat, a Tuxedo jacket and knickerbockers, all of finest black twill. From that time until he reaches the age ot 16 there is little of clothing he can add. Year by year childish frills and broad collars are discarded, and ultimately short trousers are worn only for sport; but having donned formal dress at 5 all other changes become trivial in the extreme and are marked only by difference in detail. Beginning with the age of three years, when the brownie suit is first donned for occasions of dress, the wee man has his | blouse for morning wear, his colf trons- exs for ~port and his reeler overcoat. At | this time he wears daintily frilled shiris| and turn-over collars and cuffs. At 5| he wears double-breasted jackets for every | day and lays aside frills for linen col\nr' in conjunction with shirtwaists of severer style. Witn his Tuxedo hedonsstill plainer shirt, but the collar is unchangeable. A | soft white tie, black silk stockings and | patent leather pumps all must be there; | but as yet the stiff high collar and the | lawn tie are reserved for grown lads, not | even dancing-school etiquette having de- manded them of little boys. One very pretty little suit, however, that | is truly childish and always becoming for | little fellows is the little Tom Thumb snit, | made in velvet, though for a child of 7 or 8 the smooth finished cloth is usually employed. These suits are particuiarly | | good for little folks and are mzde upn | grass linen, cheviot or duck and braided | with wnite or colored washable braids. | Tbe very small boy who rumples and | soils his clothes in less time than it takes | to dress him must have many changes, and the wise mother looks for designs that launder easily and- still look well | afterward. ! " This want is met in the design shown, in whicn no little boy need fear looking | girlish when dressed for play. Green and | white fancy suitings, with pique collars and cuffs, are combined in this common- sense and becoming suit, though t season are found in all shades, both deli- | d strong. Alight weight of denim, trinmed in white braid, is both stylish | and most darable for the smalil boy who plags in the sand. In this model it is | shown with white collar, cuffs and belt, the latter being held together with a large clasp in front. In reference to bridal costumes I would | Straw sailor hats are much worn, while | say that crepe-de-Chine, either plain or } the Tam o' Shanters in straw are widely | fizured, is being worn with lace guimpe used. and sleeves. Forso warm a month as Sep- ca tember, something less heavy than satin is much more desirable; the crepe-de-Chine is new and is extensively used and in my opinion is perfectly charming. We have oneof crepa-de-Chine extensively trimmed LE JO THE ALJAR I have often thought that, anxious as she was for work her life as a reporter must have been a daily martyrdom to her. All through that long wet winter she came regularly to the office, and worked faithfully at her assignments, without any. of us knowing wtence she came or whither she went outside of office hours, until young Allen came over to us from the Trumpeter. He knew a lot about her, for he was naturaliy a ferretty kind of fellow, and he iived in the seme lodging- house where she had light housekeeping rooms, He told us that she was not a widow as we had thought, but was the possessor of a big anc¢ burly husband, Jack Martin by name, whose chief occupation was hang- ing about the streets along with the ‘‘un- | employea” and talking ‘*hard times’ to| any one who would listen to him. The man was a house-painter, Allen said, but had ceased to work at his trade long since, on the plea that the chemicals made use of were undermining his constitution, and was living a life of leisure supported by the slender earnings of his wife. According to our informant the Martins’ marriage had been a romantic ‘‘runaway match,”” Mrs. Martin having fallen in love with her husband when he was a hand- some young journeyman so deeply that she had left home and friends for his sake and taken a place in the world far below that to which her birth and ed ucation en- titled her. *‘Her folks in the East are way up,’” de- clared Allen, “and if she’d turn her back on that worthless fellow that she is work- ing herself to death to support they'd take ber back in a minute; but they can’t and won’t swallow him, and I don’t blame them, for he’s a tough lot all arounad.” The little lady’s shabby mourning was worn for her only child, who had died some two vears before. It had been a fretful, sickly creature all its short life, and 1ts mother had been a siave to it from its birth, bnt she had mourned for it as Rachel of old mourned for her children. After hearing this story we were even more kindly disposed toward our feminine fellow-worker, and more than one of us felt a strong desire to look up Jack Mar- tin and punch his head for him until it was in a condition to entertain the idea that it was his duty as a man and a hus- band to stop ‘‘oratinz’’ and go to work at something to lessea the burdens of the woman who was struggling so patiently and so loyally to take care of him. But the certainty that our interference in the matter would be far from pieasing to the object of our sympathy prevented us from carrying out our Quixotic inclinations. Meanwhile the little lady, all unaware with pleated mousseline and orange blos- | drapery. soms, long train, seven-gored skirt. While | enveloped her completed this handsome ivory | toilet. Another one at the modiste’s is of an | skirt trimmed with duchesse Iace; long | other materials are used the satins hold their sway. We were at a wedding not long since and | the bride was arrayed fn | elezant toilet of ivory white sati duchesse. The seven-gored train skirt | blossoms at left side. has the front an. fside breadths trimmed at the foot with a heavy bouillon of mousseline and orance blossoms; corsage draped surplice fasbion, with vest of | crepe lisse, wrinkled sleeves with butterfly A long veilof tulle which almost cream satin duchesse cut ridingote fashion, with long train; vest and front of veil of tulle slghtly draped with orange CYNTHIA. LOCAL It was just luck that she got in among us. Work on a big city daily like the Re- flex is not easy to secure, even when one is the possessor of exceptional talent or exceptional influence — sometimes it is hard to zet when one bas both these bless- ings—and it was evident from the first that she had neither. All we knew about her being taken on was that she appeared at the door one dis- mal afternoon in the early rall, and, after looking about in the timid, fluttering, hesitating way which we afterward found to be characteristic of her, inquired for “the editor.’” Larkins, who sat nearest the stairway, sacrificed himself for the rest ot us, and piloted her between desks and through clouds of tobacco smoke to Bildad’s den, and left her there. “What can I do for you, Madam?” he said in that way of his which mukes us boys mind our p's and g's when we are in his vicinity, and Larkins said tbat she just stared at him and gasped, she was so scared and broken up by his cantankerous manner. She must have managed to answer him ‘some way, though, after Lar- kins left her to her fate, for she took up five long minutes of his precious time, while we fellows were kicking our beels and swearing outside; and when she came out at last she was actually smiling in a pale kind of a way, and she had a little notebook gripped in one hand and one of Bildad’s own special pencils in the other. Bildad had actually given her a detail! And when the other reporters began to come trailing in at 5 ©’clock with their stories, there she =at at Morris’ desk, which is a regular “Tom Tiddler's ground’’ to the rest of us, writing out her notes, with her forehead all puckered np into worried little wrinkles, just as if she had always belonged in the office. From that day she fluttered outand in daily, and Bildad always managed, no matter how dull things were in town or how scarce work was for the rest of us, to give her two or three details in the course of a week. Certain it is that under his hard and rough exterior the ‘‘old man” must have had a mostkind and sympathet- ic heart, for nothing but the sheerest kind- ness and pity could possibly have influ- enced him in giving her the chance that be did. As a reporter she was a rank failure. She not only did not have “a nose for news,” but she soon proved that che couidn’t recognize an item if it walked di- THE LITTLE LADY OF THE ROOM. point of anything that bad a point to it that was entrusted to her, and Bildad soon discovered that foct to his sorrow. After the first, however, he put her on to ‘rose fairs’”” and ‘‘chrysanthemum shows” and church work, and she got along better. She never did write a good story about anything, but Bildad always read her copy, and, I fancy, edited ita good deal, and 80 it always got in. If we wondered that she zot on the paper we wondered still more later on, when her inefficiency became patent to us all, how she kept on in a city where so many bright and clever women were fairly pining to distihguish themselves in the journalistic hine. But not one of us grudged her the few details that f-il to her share, or thought | less of Bildad for his kindness to her. There was not a man in the office who would have put a straw in ‘“the little lady’s” way, and as far as she or her work was concerned, our ordinarily eritical and unsparingly frank tongues were silent. You see one just couldn’t be unkind to | worked on as patiently, as conscientiously and as silently as ever, and quite as un- satisfactorily. Her story got around all through the office, and even the rudest and most careless of ‘“the boys” felt con- strained to be specially kind to her in a shame-faced sort of a way. As the weeks went by, hawever, the lit- tle lady grew thinner and more worried- looking. Once in a while, too, her eyes, which must have been very pretty ones in and shadowed, looked as if she had been that we knew anything of her home life, | | little lady had bequeathed us. her girlhood, before they were so sunken | Martin was drinking heavily and go- ing to the dogs generally, and that his wife was baving *‘a harder row to hoe” even than usual. ‘We pitied her, but could do nothing to aid her, since she took no one Iin her confidence, and thefe was something about her, in spiie of her shyness and shabbiness and undeniable poverty, that made it impossible for even the boldest ot us to attempt an intrusion on her personal privacy. Much as we execrated Jack Martin, we were, after we realized what mannerof a woman she was, chivalrous in all ways to- ward Jack Martn’s poor little wife, and the highest laay in the land could not have been treated with more genuine re- spect and truer courtesy than was this faded little woman in her shabby gown by the somewhat wild and reckless lot of young fellows who at that time consti- tuted the reportorial staff of the Daily Re- flex. So time went on until one day—for the first time since she began to work on the paver—the little lady did not show up at 1 o’clocks When Allen came in at 5 he brought the news that Jack Martin had “lit out” with a third-rate variety actress, who had been idiot enough to be taken in with his soggy good looks. “It’s a good riddance for his wife,” said Jenkins, stopping in his scriboling for a moment to look up darkly at the rest of us from under his eyeshade, “but I sup- pose she will be just fool enough to te sorry. Some women value a man the more highly the more worthless he is, and Mrs. Martin strikes me as being one of that kind. She ought to have let him starve long ago.”” And we all agreed with him. That evening while Mr. Bildad was clearing up the desk preparatory to leav- ing the night editor in charge a messen- ger-boy came in with a letter directed to bim in the little lady’s well-known writ- ing. %‘he message was brief and to the point, surprisingly so, considering the usually involved aud prolix style of the writer. “My husband has left me," 1t said, “and as 1 have nothing now to live for, I have concluded to give up trying. Please thank all the gentlemen for their past kindness, and send some one up to the house as 00n as you receive this. I want to give the Reflex u scoop and am putting it off until the last minute, so that the other papers won’t get in onit. Grate- fully yours, EL1ZABETH MARTIN.” Two of us went tearing out to that far- away lodging-house as fast asa hack could carry us, but we were too late to do more than secure the *‘scoop” which our poor She—timid, nervous, hesitating little creature, though she always had been— in some inexplicable way, born of her desolation and despair, found the strength and courage to face the muzzle of a re- volver five minutes before our arrival and send a bullet straight through her aching heart. REUBEN TAYLOR. ——————————— Mes. L. BROWN's dressmaking parlors, for- merly 139 Post, now at 2634 Kearny. » —_————— Glass brushes are used by the artists who decorate china. crying long and bitterly., Allen said that $200 { Brain 1s better than bri publishers of Woma | cause of educ: in many ways World sud Jenness pianos, medicine , books, buking powders, jewelry, *m:ssing le:ters’’ con:est. their p aces have vecn supplicd by dashes. erly you must Lave some A"y word< a5 you can, then send t0 us WoMaAN'S WORLD. 80 our list coutains twenty of more corriot words, have an opportunity of the Yor« makes no difference. PRIZES WILL BE }{ll A country of South Ameérica, Prizes will be honest studied out. {n making your L-RA-1-" = 2. = A= 1= 1 = P o Varer ™™ M-D--E--A-E--su {l b §--AN-A- H i oyl x A city of Canada. N-A-A-A Noied for displuy of = E- _E__ _ One ot the United states. % A 7 R I = Acity of Spain. of at W = Alargeriver. Well-known river of Europe. A city in one of the Bouihern States. o p o3 9. 10. 1L 12. 13. her, for she looked as if the world had been pretty hard on ber any way. teel poverty’’ was evidenced by her whole | attire, from the top of her off-color crape | bonnet to the toes of her worn and shabby | boots. She was neat—that was one thin: in her favor. | Her little wisp of gray-streaked hair wa- | laboriously *‘montagued” over her narrow and shining forehead und done up in‘the tightest of *French twists'’ at the back. Her black dress, though polished on the | shoulder-blades and at the elbows and | bearing other signs of having seen long | and faithful service, was always well brushed and careinlly darned wherever it showed signs of giving up the struggle for existence, and ner gloves, of which she seemed never. to hatve an absolutely new pair, were simply marvelous examples of tho patient exercise of the art of mending. 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