The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 25, 1897, Page 17

Call 1897. THIS WAY TAKES FOUR DAYS. nent for a gold discovery some years ago. The route is the same, however, as the traveler to the Klonayke must go, only the latter must not go so far. He will reach his destination some miles before he gets to Forty-mile Creek. But he cun- not reach the Klondyke overland by any known trail without baving to overcome the terrors of Miles Canyon. “I had lived in Alaska a good many vears beiore 1 ever went over the overland route,” said Mr.Warner when speaking of the matter. *I had worked all along the coast and been around to the interior by boat over the Yukon. This way is pleasant and quick, but when I say that itisex- pensive I mean all that the word can con- vey in its strongest sense. As a conse- quence the greater nnmber of men go by the overiand route. “There were *wo of us started together in the spring of 1895 and we left Dyea Inlet on u day that wasas fine as could be desired. It was simply perfect, but before we had been out thirty-six hours there was a change for the worst ana winter was on top of us. The wind howled and the snow fell in blinding clouds so that we were unable to do any traveling for three days. Such a state of the atmospiere is apt to coma on at almost any time, up to the time of year that it is too late to start into the gold country. ‘We were bound for Forty-mile Creek, and were bound to get there, although I confess: that Ifelt considerably like turning back afier that storm came came up. “To givean idea of what the country is like to as far as a short distance below Miles Canyon, T will say that there is a range of mountains following the line of seacoast and behind that there is a valley many hundreds of miles long. In this valley there is a chain of lakes connected by small streams, all of which eventually carry the waters of the whole region into the Yukon, and so to the Arctic Ocean. The route to the gold fields lies along the bottom of the valley and the traveler finds it an object to cress the lakes either with a sleigh, when they are frozen, or in a boat when the season isadvanced enough. This is the way that we went. “Iu going over the range of mountains along the coast the trail is taken that leads from Dyea to the top of the range and throu a sort of low saddle that is known as Chilkoot Pass. The climb to the top of this is something awful, and unless the men are good and strong is likely to con- sume the greater part of three days. +“Well, we got over this part of the country all right, and on the other Miles Canyon is the greatest obstacle to be overcome by all travelers to the new Yukon gold fields. It matters not what they are going into the gold fieids for—tnay-have to pass the awful obstacle. That is, they bave to pass it if they go by way of what is known as the ‘“‘overland route,” and tbat is the way that the greater number of adventurers will go. Those who go by way of the Yukon River will avoid the obstacle by several hundred miles, but they will also miss one of the most exciting in- cidents that a man can crowd into his life. Nobody would think of cailing Miles Canyon an obstacle were it not for the fact that there are two ways of overcoming the obstacie. One of these ways takes jour days, the other takes four minutes. To even things up it so happens that one of the ways is absolutely safe, while the other is a matter of life or death. When a man once starts on it there is no turning back and the chances of his going tarough are about as slim as can be. Were the safe way the only way of overcoming, or rather going around the obstacle, all travelers would simply take that way and look upon it as only a part of the journey. Butas it is, it seems such a waste of time to go that way when the other is so short. The story of Miles Canyon was told to the writer a few weeks ago Ly Thomas Warner, an old Alaskan prospector, who spent several months of the early part of the year in San Francisco but who is now, very likely, right in the midst of the big gold excitement. As he told the story it was about as dramatic as such a narrative could well be, and incidentaily he mentioned a few facts that will give an idea of what has to be gone through with by the daring searcher for gold. Mr. Warner, of course, knew nothing of the Klondyke, but related the journey into the Forty-mile Creek country, which was so promi- facts of side found such a down grade thatit was more of an obiect to hold back than it was to go ahead. We went down flying, and in a couple of days found ourselves on the sbores of Lake Linderman. It was frozen solid and was several feet deep in snow, but we made good time over it and suc- cessfully reached Lake Bennett, Lake Nares and the upper end of Lake Marsh. “Here we found it necessary to stop and build our boat. You see that the season was advancing and the ice was getting ‘mushy,’ so that we had to be prepared for water. Of course we had taken tools with us. In a few days there was quite a colony of us, as ssveral other parties came in soon after our arrival. Things were quite lively, ard the buzz of the saw and the thump of tiie hammer could be heard for miles. party of aboul eight started at the same time, and there were at least fifty men just vehind us working on their boats and ready to start as soon as they were finished. The way we did was to put our boats on the sleds we had in the first place and drag them the best we could. This comes pretty close to being hard work, but it had the advantage of keep- ing us warm. 'As it happened, we did not need the sleds for very long, for the first nightout there eame a thaw, and in the morning the ice on the lake was all broken up. This was naturally a delay, for while the ice was still heavy, we could not launch our boats. But wnen it did break up into small bits we got out our sails, and the surface of the lake looked as if there was a yacht ciub out for 2 summer cruise. Tais, of course, was very pleasant, and wuen we got to the lower end of the lake there was a large party of us. “As might be 1magined, there had been considerable talk as to how each was to get around Miles Canyon. Some said they were going to go through, and some said they would go over the hill and be slow and sure. Those in our boat speculated from day to day, but never reached any conclusion, although I believe that each of ue had his mind made up to go through, providing the others were willing, “This canyon is about half way be- tween Lake Marsh and Lake Lebarge. The distance between the two is about forty-five miles. To give an idea of ihis point I will say that the river, as we have been coming over it for many miles, has been about 300 feet wide, but suddenly narrows down ‘to about thirty feet be- tween canyon walls, and from a smooth, placid siream-becomés a raging torrent, tearing through the narrow ojening at the rate of about twenty miles an hour. The walls of the canyon rise on both sides to tle height of several huncrad feet, so that there was no way of walking along the banks of the stream. When we reached this point of the river there were about forty of us, all in'a bunch. The probiem was beiore all of us. It was either to go through the canyon in our boats orlabori- ously climb the hill to the west, dragging all of our belongings with us. In climbing this hill it is necessary to go over a ridge at least 1000 feet high and then down on the other.side. To move the ordinary luggage of four men it would take at least four days and be the hardest kind of work. One .way took four days and the other four minutes. - But all of us hesitated a long time. “But who would not hesitate? I con- fess that when I had one look at that rag- ing and seething stream of water I wished the other fellows would make up their minds that they didn’t want to go through, But there we all stood and watched and thought of the stories we had heard of the different men who had gone through and of the men who had made the attempt and failed. The more we thought of these the less we wanted to go through, although when we figured it down it developed that the greater majority had made the trip in safety. His- tory records that fourteen men lost their lives in the attempt, and the supposition is that they were men who had not a very extensive knowledge of handling boats. “While the forty of us were standing on the banks of the river above the canyon, wondering what we shouid do, a young W 7. fellow from Missouri came along and stated that he was going to go through. He did not stop long to make up his mind, either. He said that the rap:ds were not 80 bad as he had heard they were. He said he had been over worse in the Gasconade, A few said he had better go by the slow way, but he would not listen to them. “Jumping into his boat he shoved her off and in an instant was in the current. 'We saw him bob around a moment as if he had lost control of his tiny craft, and then shoot forward as if he was fired out of a cannon- About two minutes later we heard the report of his revolver, telling us that he had made the trip through in safety. This signal is always agreed upon by those who make the passage through the canyon and those who remain on shore above. “Qf course after one mun had been through in safety it was easy enough to get some of the others started, and in less than half an hour three boats had gone through without a mishap. A number of the party, on seeing the first attempt, made up their minds that the way over the hill was good enough for them, and accordingly started that way. The party I was with took one look at twem toiling up the hill and anotner at the rapids. I saia, ‘Boys, which will it be, four minutes or four days?" Both answered at once, ‘Four minutes,’ and in a mo- ment we shoved off. “I will never forget that trip I can tell you. In asecond after we had been caught by the current I was almost dizzy witn the motion of the boat. We bobbsd one way and then another and paddled with all our might to keep the boat in the middle of the stream. “First we slipped over a sheet of water as smooth as glass and a mo- ment later dipped into a curling breaker that almost filled our boat with water. Then we swung sideways and then around so thut we scraped the canyon wall and almost upset. More water came in and everything seemed to swm around me. First there was a succession of thumps against my head and the most awful sound in my ears. We sprang ior- ward in a series of leaps. Then thers came a scraping sound and a mo- ment later I heard the yells of the men who had come before greeting us and cheering at our safe arrival. It was a great trip and I wouldn’t have missed it for a thousand doliars. But, well the fagt is I don’t think that I would care to go through there again. In truth, I believe that if I ever came to the point justat the head of the rapids I would take the route over the mountain. 0; I am not afraid, out the reason that I feel that way is because the man who came after us was not so successful. He got through all right, but just as he was feeling that his trouble was over he struck a rock and his boat turned over and over and he was thrown around like a cork. Ithink the first bump knocked him sensaless, for wken we got him out, some 200 feet down the stream, we thought he was dead, and could not revive him for at least half an hour. Had we not been there he must surely have drowned. As it was, he was soon able to proceed on his way, after the crowd had given him enough provisions to make up for those he lost when his boat tipped over. The boat was not burt in the least. I have never seen that fellow since, but seeing the fix that he got nto was enough to let me know just how great had bsen the danger that we had passed through. “None of the others who had been waiting above to make the attempt did so after they failed to hear the pistol-shot that was to tell them of REMINISCENCES OF A TRIP TO ALASKA IR TH May 8, 1869, a memorable expedition gailed from San Francisco with a twofold object in view. The first was to explore the then comparatively unknown interior | of the vast country so recently acquired | from Russla by le Sam, not thirsting after kunowledge scientific of the region lying north of Mount St. Eliaa, but for the pelts of the fur-bearing animals roaming through that vast streich of country. | Four years previous the Western Union | Telegraph Company had sentan expedi- tion to what was then Russian America to survey a route for a telegraph line, which, having for its initial point New West- minster, B. C., stretched up through 3ritish America, thence through Rus- | sian America, by cable across Bering | Straits to Kamchatka, from there to the | mouth of the Amoor River to connect | with a line to be built by tbe Russian | Government to that point. | This | aving been abandoned in 1867 as a | probable non-paying investment owing to | success of the Atiantic cable, the original explorers returned to San Francisco in the fall of that year. Like others, his occupa- tion being gone, the writer’s thoughts were directed to the possibilities lying in the fur trade for the accumulation of wealth. This led to a meeting with the late John Parrott and R. H. Waterman (familiarly known to early residents as Bully Water- man), who, quick 10 see the immense profits to be made, the necessary capital was at once subscribed, trading goods pur- chasad, a stern-wheel steamer to navigate the Yukon built, and, finding in the brig Commodore a vessel that could comfort- ably carry the hull of the steamer on deck, phe was chartered and, in command of Captain Percival, sailed on the date above mentioned. . Qur steamer was 8 stanch litile vessel of 22 tons burden, christened the Yukon, and was expected to penetrate as far into the interior as tbe short season would allow by going up the river after which she was named, distributing goods, estab- Jishing stations and bringing down the furs to the main station at Bt. Michaels, RS ——— THE TOWN OF OONALASKA IN THE EARLY DAYS. the man’s safe arrival’” - we tumbled around quite lively, were obliged to come down to our lower sails, and took on board quite a considerable amount of water, as we were deeply laden. At the first appearence of foul weather Jim retired to bis bunk. Not that he was afraid; oh, no; but he thou-nt he might be in the way of the sailors. Still his constant inquiries as to what the captain thought and was it getting worse led -us to believe differently, The storm was short-lived, but at one time quite a sea boarded us and perhaps a barreifull or two went splashing down ipto what we bad named the forward wardroom. A few days later we dropped anchor in the lovely harbor of Oonalaska, about 150 yards from a narrow spit of land on which was located an Aleatian village of about 400 natives. Q uite a number of vessels were already hereand a bustling scene was tran- spiring. Tle firm of Taylor & Bendel was putting up a dwelling and store for iis agent. Hutchinson, Kohl & Co.'s (predecessors of the Alaska Commercial Company) employes were discharging cargo from their steamer Alexander. I had thought of establishing a post here, but finding the ground so thoroughly oc- cupied decided not to, but instead en- tered into vartnership with Messrs. Taylor and Bendel through the head of the firm, thelate Mr. Taylor, who was a passenger on their schooner Page, with the unaer- standing that they would gc no farther nerth, and I would take off their nands the goods they had purchased for trading purposes. While in Oonalaska we had a trial by jury, caused by an offense committed by one of my party. The offender had been employing his leisure on shore one even- ing by playing poker with members of an opposition company. Coming on board he boastfully spoke ot the affair as beinga creditable one, inasmuch as he had de- spoiled the enemy of their lucre, reck- lessly showing the amount of his win- nings, some $6. This was the first trial by jury ever held in Alaska, and naturally evolved itself into a farce for the amusement of the The arrested prisoner was brought Norton Sound. Sailing day arrived at last, bringing with it an additional passenger in the per- son of Louis B. Parrott, a nephew of John Parrott, who joined us for the spice of adventure the expediiion promised to af- ford. The second object was the determining of the exact position oi Fort Yukon, situ- ated some 1500 miles up that river, and a very valuable trading-post of the Hudson Bay Company and which I had strong reasons for believing was on United States territory. For that reason some time pre- viously application had been made 10 the Becretary of ihe Trea:ury for the proper officers to accompany us to determine iis site. A total eclipse of the sun, to occur on August 10 (I think), being & most favoras ble opportunity to determine at once and accurately whether the Enclish would have to vacate or not, provided we arrived 1n time and the day should prove clear. This resulted in the appomntment of Captain Charles W. Raymond, Engineer Corps, U. 8. A., in charge; John J. Major, assistant, and Private Michael Koley. All being in readiness, the lines were cast off that were holding us to civilization, and in tow of a tug we made our way out through the Golden Gate. An uneventiul voyage brought us six- teen days later aloneside a wharf at Sitka. Here we tound General Jeff C. Davis in command of the United States forces, con-isting of two companies of ar- tiliery, officered by Lieutenant-Colonel Neil Dennison, Major Wood aad Lieuten- auts Eagan and Foote. We found in port s 5 the United States revenue cutter Reli- ance, Captain Seiden, and a day or two later the United States revenue cutter Lincoln, Capiain White, arrived. We were most hospitably entertained by the garrison, Mrs. Dodge, wife of the major (who was absent in Washington, D. G.), Mr. and Mrs. Henry Kinkead (afterward Governorof Nevada) and the officers of the cutters. A ball was given at the clubhouse dur- ing our stay, at which the 400 of Sika were present in full force. It was with the most pleasant memories of Sitka and its inhabitants that ten days later we once more set sail, Oonalaska being our next port. A few days out from Sitka the barometer commenced falling, and we ex- perienced quite a gale—not severe, but the crowd. imto the impromptu courtroom and the attorneys for the prosecution and defense went to work in the usuai way. The trial showed that the prisoner had held four aces and his opponent only four kings, and yet he had allowed bhim to escape with money in his pocket. For this of- fense the prisoner was sentenced to spend wind not being favorable to lay our course | his winnings for reireshments,