The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 30, 1896, Page 29

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, AUGUST 30, 1896. 29 MARCELLA DISCUSSES THE AOTOMN Numerous will be the antumn brides, | ginning to look old-fashioned and their and already they have ordered some very | adherents rather decidedly passe. . Le roi delightful gowns. One I have heard about | est mort, Vive le roi. is quite exquisite. Itisa bridal dress of | Ifany of my readers must have gowns rich, white satin. The corsage is draped | for petite tenue, the most satisfactory are softly with white silk chiffon, which is | the white grenadines. An authority says: to be caught up on the shoulders with | They neverseemto get out of order, but sprays of orange blo s. It droops stend all weather and no end of wear and tear, h % 2 » 4 uilt oV 5 ntrimmed an l“);}‘?g;‘ Ifile;‘“ *“8d0~“119 "“‘ff' “ex“i’f: the bodice round, bull laid in three broad _bodice and a shaped panel 10| 0464y front, the back biss and seamless the skirt are beautifully embroidered in | From under thecenter pleat in front, quite. tiny seed pearls. Spraysof orange blos- ’S- | high toward the collar-band, are two small s0ms are to be arrayed at each end and in | white satin revers, covered with guipure and the center of the embroidery. Equally embroidered in fine green pailletes. A little interesting are other frocks in this trous- | below, from each side pleat, another revers of seau, which are far enough advanced for the same size and finish is spread out, giving E o : an exceedingly pleasing effect to the fi J me to give you some idea of their nn\_‘EI The bodice é ln}‘;lefl wfin a green and \E‘;;:ee features, A smart little gray cheviot | gripeq ribbon, plisse into fans over the hips. serge has a loose-fronted bodice with an | A green velvet collar-band, with pointed gui- unusually handsome yoke of cut jet, down | pureruff, was very becoming. The sleeves, the front of which are three jet buttons. | simple modern gigots fitting the lower arm, Another sensible frock has a well-bung | had lace Il the yrlit, Such & profty hat w e width, | 0f White satin straw Was worn, the crown BT}‘h‘:"],::l’““Ty“t:;’gnp_li‘:::;tgfim&‘:e"s;:! ;dnfil rather high and covered almost entirely with collar and fanciful small revers. The cor- ners are rounded and there are two pock- two shades of green tulle. Perched on the top of the tulle was a single American Beauty rose ets. Homespun is the material employed in a shade of chocolate-brown. with foliage. At a reception given heretwo weeks ago | a gown of apricot taffeta shot with white A reception toilet of pink and gray shot | was worn by an Eastern bride. The most k had a folded cincture extending high | beauntiful jeweled insertion was intro- inder the arms; it is pointed in front| duced in the skirt within two feet of the and bordered along the top with lovely | bottom. It was about four ‘inches in silver passementerie, as isalso the topedge | width and looked as though composed of of the corsage, which has a yoke and col- | diamonds, emeralds and golden threads. lar of pale gray crepe de chine over rose | A sort ef little bolero was made of the pink satin. With itis to be worn a cape | same, and the entire gown had 4 lining of of pale pink satin, covered with the finest | white glace with frills of the apricot silk. embroidered black chiffon; the frills are Shot apricot silk is in high favor, as it is of white chiffon. undoubtedly extremely becoming to Many of the creations of this bride’s | many. Asa result of this discovery one of bright modiste for evening wear are quite | the prettiest girls I have ever seen was a charming—for instance, one is of pale | picture last week in a sheer organdie frock green satin, run with a thread of gold. | richly incrusted with real Valenciennes | The bodice has the appearance of being | lace made over an apricot taffets, also | swathed round the pretty wearer (who is, of course, a slender maiden), in folds; shot with white. She wore a wide sash of taffeta ribbon exactly matching the silk across the decolletage is a broad piece of | slip. It was tied in two donkey ear loops creamy lace; over one shoulder are carried | and the long ends reached the bottom soit folds of golden-hued tulle; over the | of the skirt, and were deeply fringed. other extend some half-opened Marechal | Her simple hat of white leghorn was Niel buds. The sleeves consist of many | simply trimmed with tulle, which matched irills of the tulle sewed over the green | her sash, ana three short but very choice setin. The skirt is without adornment, | ostrich feathers. This lovely toilet was but is completed inside with pinked frills | worn at a country luncheon, on which of golden-colored taffeta. occasion was almost equally admired a | A dinner gown of turquoise blue silk has | creation of most exquisitely fine em- 8 pointed belt of embroidery done in sil- | broidered grass linen over a slip of Nile ver, jet and emerald green sequins. A |green silk. A long sash of plain grass narrow strip of the same outlines the | linen encircled a pretty waist. This sash corselet at the top and waist and forms | was trimmed on the outer edge with lace; braces over the shoulders. The chemi- | it measured between sixteen and eighteen sette and sleeves are of black net, on |inches at the ends, but tapered off to half which appear the same sequins with good | that width at the waist line. The chic effect. These also outline every seam of | bolero was completely covered with the skirt. puckered Valenciennes, front rounding | For bridesmaids’ dresses yellow and |and back cut up in a point. The epau- pink promise to be the most popular, as | lettes were also of puckered lace, laid ia | they have been discovered to give an es- J jabot folds over the slightly bouffant pecially pretty setting for the bride’s| gown. Peau de soie is to be a favorite fabric, and changeable taffetas in beauti- ful combinations rank among the Ia(est‘ novelties, and mousseline de soie will con- | tinue o be as much the vogue as ever be- | fore for trimming. No bridesmaid ever | thinks of wearing & waist thatis not of | the same matérial as her skirt, as from an ‘ ertistic point of view such a combination cotld not be thought ot. The skirts for | bridesmaids are to be a trifle longer than | those of last autumn and are n:rrower,“ but are cut so as to have a certain flare. | Large hats with ostrich plumes are much | liked, still they match the dress in color. Msny ladies strive after picturesque effects with the happiest results. Bhortly | six pretty maids will walk up a certain aisle, and all of them Wwill be attired in pink, but not all will beof the same shade. | Instead three shades will be allowed which | perfectly blend. Peau de soie will be| nsed and charming little boleros of lace | will be worn, through which will be run | threads of gold. The pokelike bonnets | are to be of cream-white straw, over which | pink roses and a cluster of short ostrich plumes are to nod. Each maid will carry along cane (also cream white) in line, to the top of which, with long pink ribbons, will be tied a great bunch of pink roses. The gioves worn will be of glace kid. As Princess Maud had a full ruche of mous- seline de soie round the skirt of her wed- | ding gown mostof the brides, as well as the maids, in the near future will have their skirts adorned in a similar manner. Speaking of brides reminds me that | any of them owning a carriage and havingz | a long visiting list, would find acceptable a novel wedding present, just designed; it is a small white leather “carriagze bag, trimmed with gilt and lined with white moire. It contains in the pockets a card case and purse to match, smelling salts, a gold pencil and a tiny watch set in the outside. Bicycle bags are also much liked by wheelwomen. I will shortly have any amount of news concerning the creations being designed for another belle, but great will be the changes announced within the next sixty days in all our apparel; how- ever, the fiat has gone forth concerning our skirts and sleeves, and numerous are | the dresses already to be seen which carry | out the very latest of fashion’s decrees, i and already the large puify sleeves are be- | | during FASHIONS sleeves, which fitted the arms closely and were finished ‘with the puckered lace. A choker, having the plain linen as a founda- tion, was completely covered with lace. The Geisha parasol is in high favor. It | is of pagoda form, the ribs being flattened out at the edges, so as to advantageously. | show a lining of bouillonne chiffon or,soft silk, finished in many cases with a flounce of fine old lace. The covering is of plain or chine silk, without any trimming, all elaboration being reserved for the lininz, which is usually of acontrasting shade. One much admired was covered with white corded silk and has a lining of the latest azure-blue chiffon, and another of a chine silk covered with large sprays of pink roses | scattered over a white ground has a rose- pink chiffon lining. One of the advantages of thisshape is that when shut the flat tened edges of the ribs turn back suffi- ciently to show flowerlike glimpses of the lining. The makers have used with mych success handles of colored mother-of-pgarl tinted pink, blue ora beautiful delicate shade of mauve. Of course the handle is | chosen so as to harmonize with the cover- ing, and Dresden handles of unusually lovely flesiges are still employed. A Paris correspondent writes: “‘Spun- glass sunshades are the latest novelty here. Many of my readers may hear of thiy with some amusement; as spun glass does not seem to represent a material from which any kind of an umbrella may be manufactured. Such is, however, the case, and very pretty if rather perishable | they are, these glistening creations, so light and airy and original. How the glass is spun for the purpose it is not for me to say, but 1t is treated in such a fashion that it can be folded without breaking, as, for the matter of that, it is woven loosely it is true, but still woven, in the same manner as canvas, with big meshes, and is to be obtained in pale tints of extreme shininess, which seem to have imprisoned thousands of sunrays betwixt their tiny, silky threads.” And in Newport so gay are the parasols that they can only be compared to “‘zigan- tic flowers.” Another noted at Newport of corded white silk had a rich flounce of Maltese lace, a dainty heading of white gauze and a lovely ivory stick and handle mounted in embossed gold, the graceful design run halt way up. It had agilt frame tipped with points of dead gold. If you can find a remnant of green and blue shot silk that will harmonize well with your cloth secure it promptly, as this combination is likely to continue to be the fashion ail winter. The blue I refer to is the rich royal blue, and the green is grass green. To return to my subject. The tailor gown having been secured, the matron, belle and debutante who can afford a handsome visiting toilette will at once start on an interesting tour of inspection, but exactly what they will see I cannot yet say, as the goods are slowly arriving, but many are the careful shoppers who, the season of sales, have secured rich and lovely materials that will excite the envy and admiration of many of their friends ere long. That gray is to be fashionable is an assured fact, and one wise young wife purchased | last month quite an extensive piece of the | finest gray cloth for a mere song, it being considered a short length, and it would be were not large sleevesdoomed. Later this e < \liule woman purchased a lovely piece of & | 4 2 heavy creamy white lace. Thisisto be used as an applique over silk for a toileite that promises to be quite delightful, and nc woman with the least artistic ideas could have failed this summer to have | procured lovely pieces of silk crepe lace and mousseline de soie, from which later can be evolved charming dresses for receptions, dinners, dances and theater parties, provided they can se- cure the clever dressmaker or the little womaa who sews so well by the day, and this reminds me that that rara avis has not yet been discovered by me, in spite of much diligent search. Little compara- tively is now required of the dressmaker, as skirts witl, for the most part, be but slightly ornamented, the charm of the gown consisting in a perfectly fitted bodice and a skirt that is beyond criticism, as for | some time yet most of the lrimming'ig to }con!in of that which appears on our bodices, unless we possess some real lace flounces, for in that case they can be utilized to great advantage, as you see in the models presented this week. It iswell to have not more than three or four evening dresses made during Oc- tober, for numerous little fads and caprices will obtain during December. But a few words concerning the passing season at the present moment: ‘‘Muslins, and that of the sheerest, gauzes, crepes, ilk canvases, ‘veilings,’ lace over thin glace silks, painted etamine, embroidered tulles, are the order of the day, adorned with flounces upon flounces of lace, and with ribbons galore, in tints so soft, so | flower-like, and so brilliant withal that one ‘ ends py resembling some of those bonbon bags which our great tonfiseurs have the secret to make so perfectly beautiful.” Fashion continues to expect her follow- ers to have small waists, but the pinched-in, wasp-like waist is regarded as thoroughly out of date. However, a good corset-maker never makes a corset which gives an abnormal appearance, but alas, the woman who thoroughly pnderstands the needs of her customers is even harder to find than the capable dressmaker, for nowoman should allow her figure to be crushed by a stiff, unyielding sort of affair which will give her an artificial appear- ance. I recently heard of a prominent so- cial leader being troubled with a most un- becoming and unfashionable amounts of color, who decided to consult her physi- cian on the subject. His prescription was brief, “Let out your corset four inches.” The social autocrat was indig- nant. MARCELLA. THE TAN SHOE MUST €O The latést novelty in watches for men are those reproduced in gold from the French empira period. They bid fair to become popular, being .very small and so flat that they lie in the waistcoat pocket unperceived. Some men have been seen wearing as scarfpins heads of hounds and terriers in brilliants. However, such de- signs are very ordinary. At the present moment there is quitea craze for crash for country wear, although the smartest men adhere to their flannels and some to linens. ““Him’’ remarks: “Iam not so averse to linen clothes, in the ‘alto- gether,’ but I leave the white duck trousers to the schoolboy and the subur- banite. The russet or brown leather boot is doomed.” The straw hat is popular in England, and I see a wild statement that every one will wear that abomination known as the Alpine straw hat because the Duke of York has been seen with one. The foliy of either the Prince of Wales or the Duke of York leading the men’s fashions is ex- ploded. The Prince dresses quite well for a man of his age, but who ever knew of a sailor who knew how to dress? The Duke of Olarence was always well groomed and well turned out. The Duke of York impresses me as being a bit slovenly. He is a very good young man in his way, but one who possesses no personal magnetism whatever. ' But to return to the Alpine straw. Itis stiff and unbecoming, and it givesa man an opera bouffe appearance that is ridiculous. The English are trying hard to make the morning coat-a species of cutaway— fashionable. This also will hardly be popular here, as the design is too stiff and the lounge or sack coat is so much more complete. Atter all, in dressing well one should avoid what is common. As soon as the masses are arrayed in a fashion then avoid it. ' Few if any women look otherwisethan common and dowdy in what are known as “'shirt-waists,” and very few men can envy the mass of color which is presented to them in the haberdasher-shop win- dows. . 4 4 As I previously stated, gray is to be the color this autumn and black four-in-hands, black ties and the narrow black silk bow for semi-formal evening dress will be in CLIMBING OLD TAMALPAIS People who live in Mill Valley say that more women have climbed to tbe top of Mount Tamalpais this year than all those put together who have made the ascent in the last five years. In fact it has become quite popular for ladies to chmb the beautiful peak on the north shore of San Francisco Bay, and often a dozen par- ties can be seen winding up the trail in ordér to get the grand view from the top and also to get the benefit of the fresh air and exercise incidental to the trip. Why has the trip suddenly become so popular? some might ask. The answer is plain enough to any one who will taxe the trouble to even glance at the ladies who have reached the top. They wear bloom- ers. Without bloomers they might have accomplished the ascent, but it would have been such hard work. In fact it is the hard work incidental to skirts that has kept women from making the ascent in the past. Strong, indeed, must the woman be who can on a hot day climb to the top of Tamalpais while wearing a skirt, to say nothing of the aiscomfort of the dust and heat of the garments. They are so heavy to carry and make the useof an alpen- stock almost impossible, which is really dangerous because few women are athletic enough to get over the rough and uncer- tain trail without some support. But with bloomers on, how different it is. A woman can get over the ground with an ease she has never known before and reach the topjof the mountain as soon as moet men, except, of course, those men who are trained to the sport. There is no exercise equal to a climb to the top of Tamalpais. Itis not a fatigning trip and is really healthful because the top of the mountain is not too high above the sea level for the atmosphere to be rarefied. Many women. feel a ceriain modesty about wearing bloomers on the public streets, even when riding a bicycle. But they need not feel that way about wearing bloomers to the top of Tamalpais. A woman without bloomers on the trail is an unusual sight. And, indeed, when one sees a party it is the skirt that seems out of place. There are no hoodlums on the trail to pass unpleasant remarks, and the men that one does meet do not seem to eyen see one's garments, Lhey are nearly all scientists, artists or just plain lovers of nature, and men from any of these ciasses are never known to be rude to a woman. 1f you meet a man on the trail he will, most likely, raise his hat when he allows you to pass, but make no further effort to begin a conversation than some remark about the pleasant weather. Dozens of ladies from San Franciceo make the ascent to the top of Tamalpais inbloomers and enjoy it, as is shown by the tact that they are sure to repeat the experience. When they leave the City these women wear an ordinary street skirt over their bloomers and when they are well out of the crowd in Mill Valley, remove it and either carry it with them or leave it in one of the nearby stores, where the people are only too glad to take care of it until:the owner returns. Under these circumstances the bloomers can be made of very thin material. Many ladies who frequently go to the peak maké their bloomers of coarse, black alpaca, which is easy to clean, and also cool and dust-shedding. ‘The Mill Valley trail to the top of Ta- malpais is the more interesting, although the Ross Valley trail is said to be the eas- ier walking. In the former the grandeur of the view begins as soon as the top of the hiil back of the station is climbed ana increases in ‘beauty until' the top is reached. The Ross Valley trail for sev- eral miles lies In behind the surrounding hills, and as a consequence there is no view 10 speak of, except between clumps of trees, until more than half of the distance is covered. As this trail is of an easy grade it does not offer the chances of vigorous sxercise the other does, because one is apt to get tired of walking long be- fore any climbing commences. The view from Tamalpais is enough to repay any woman for the climb to the snmmit, providing she wears bloomers. In that case she will not be worn out and can enjoy the wonderful expanse. of coun- try spread out beneath her, something she is not likely to do if she wears skirts. The new railroad to the top will likely make the trip an easy one, but those who make it that way will never get the enjoyment out of it that the women do who put on bloomers and climb, vogue. Men are out of date who appear in white silk evening ties, as lawn is the thing to wear. C. G NEW TO-DAY. Imitation Cut Glass Flower Vases— 736, 13e, 20¢, 25¢ Those popular Stamp Plates, with the uvpenwork edges, go at 10¢ each. 200 Fine China Hand-decoraled Cuspi- dors, regularly 75¢, go at 40c each. All the above for Monday, Tuesday and ‘Wednesday only. Don't forget the Bargain Table—it's full of good things at give-away prices. 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