The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 7, 1896, Page 26

26 A GOWD 6F LILAP SLK ANl> MAMONS. Justly celebrated is the taste of the Austrian women, so the court toilettes which have been designed for the **Millennium Exhibition” being beld in Buda-Pesth will est ideas which will be utilized by the leading dressmakers for the next six months. The Crown Princess Stephanie wore at the court ball a gown of lilac silk, covered with diamond-studded tulle and finished with garlands of lilacs. Princess Louise appesred 1n a velvet creation of a cherry hue embroidered in silver. 1t is a la pompadour. fair Princess selected emerald-green velvet, magnificently embroidered en being very quaint, and imagine another gown of rose-colored satin covered with gold flowers held in a silver net. 1t-1y Archduchess wore a splendid robe of pale blue moire embroidered with sin silver. Her ball dress was a rarely beautiful conception of pale-green silk ed with exquisitely painted roses and trimmed with priceless old Venetian point ce, the lace which the old Austrian nobles used to purchase by covering it with gold es. Gorgeous is the Countess Tassilo Festetics’ toilet of white satin and silver embroid- y made a la Marie Antoinette. One of the fairies in a “Midsummer Night's Dream” might have been pale with could she have seen a frock of white satin dotted with gold points and having a srder of gold embroidery. The bodice is a glimmering mass-of the rarest gems. ray of the most glorious adornea the wearer’s abundant lock: N A handsome dowager wore & mauve shot silk, combined with velvet. The passe- menterie was composed of gold and large pearls. A costume which excited admiration was of a rare shade of rose-colored velvet, round the skirt of which were garlands of white lilacs. Another, which I should hess satin, yellowish in hue and entirely embroidered env, have preferred, was of a rich D h silver. A youthful Countess was a damtily pretty picture in a glace silk turquoise, blue color, veiled with white tulle and white roses. And beautiful was a gown of white tulle and pearis over shell-pink silk, with yellow Gloire de Dijon roses and Parma violets. Many more costumes were mentioned by this correspondent, but in reading the i most of the handsomest gowns were elaborately trimmed in gold, sitver and jewels note what quantities of lace were utilized. One gown was of unusual artistic beauty on account of the embroideries ot steel with which it was adorned. So we may expect to see, on all handsome evening toilets, embroideries of in the precious metals. Velvets will probably be much worn and all son will next winter probably be in the market, as for some time past ed. elix dis descriptions I see descriptions T to Moscow for the coronation, so I shall give a brief description of four of them. A e great ngnished himself by sending some truly magnificent dresses un with threads of silver, the long skirt being also embroid- The bodice had a deep collar cut in tabs, also embroidered ; ite satin, covered with point d’Angleterre, it was three and a nother gown a mauve and white broche nacre, with an of point de Bruges on the skirt; this same lace formed a small ffant of geuze, held in place, apparently, by buckles of dia- ss of white m ered with crystal ire was bea co remely rich applique ¢ jacket witha b monds. A yellow satin frock had the ski diamonds which completely qovered t white pompadour silk, around the be simpler confection was of a pink was a flounce; the bodice wa: completely veil nousseline de soie and Valenciennes lace. He aiso se k of white moire cloth elaborately embroidered with seed pearls ned with rare Brusseis lace. An immense lace ruche surrounded the neck. and trim DKESS OF GRASS LAWN. A SUMMER Smarty ot | Bathing Suity What we can never doubt is, that all Cafler @orly. | vagaries in bathing costumes are vulgar, This season in Paris every fashionable | woman has a tailor suit, made in the sim- | plest manner possible, but so smartly cut | and not to be for 8 moment considered. ihat at a glance you can see that a master | The yachting colors, blue and white, are, of his art has cut and designed it; but a | jn addition to black, the ones a woman of French woman invariably has an artistic | good taste will always select for her bath- touch about such a toilette to relieve any | ing suit, and she will have it made very possible air of stiffness or mannishness, | well —extremely well—of fine Jersey cloth, and at present the necessary results are | put simply, modestly. She will have her produced by the dainty sunshades and by | slockings'lil?r‘d and attached. She will bats that are positive dreams of beauty. | have her neck and arms covered, that her The hideous nightmare structures, over- | skin may not be injured, and she will fold pretty silk kerchiefs about her head, and look what she is, a charming, well loaded with flowers, birds, lace and rib- bons, are things of the past. Toques are bred woman, who never steps beyond her own seli-respect. much liked with the light-colored frocks, Black, when s woman is not too syl- and the best milliners are showing crea- phide, is, perhaps, the most seante of all tions composed principallyof lilacs; violets, | both white and purple in color, are much | costumes, and for women of embonpoint seen. Indeed, it seems to be an established | there is no argument in the matter—they should never appear in anything else. fact that violets are always in style. Stock bt et h' y 5 auves ink | Slight women look bestin whit t gives 11 combinations of mauves and pinks are | ;. gepto the outlines of the figure. Blue The newest shape in hats is perfectly | is always pretty and becoming, but is round and flat, not very long, but sui- | often spoiled by white trimmings, which ficiently so to Shade the eyes, and 1, like | for the first wearing may be becoming all our chapeaux, must be worn very | eiough, but look dincy afier one drying. much tilted over the 50 arranged with | Trimming of all kind 1s in bad taste. The the assistance of a small black velvet band | fizure needs to be clothed in a solid color. in the interior of the crown. Straws of | L€ secret is in a proper fit, which few everv possible color are used in the com- | ©¥er pay attention to. If one 1s badly Soaition ot hats, and flowers are | M8de physically, the best thing to do is to placed haliway round them at the back, | WraD onesclf in a mantle and slip into the underneath the brim, which retains its | Water unseen. No bathing suit that ever al position, and is therefore not ‘l was made will hide defects, or make ht up any way. The front is|Crooked limbs straight. reduce ungainly e outlines, or put grace where there never dwelt so peerless a gift. After many experiments I have come to the conclusion that for general utility and effectiveness nothing is better fora bathing dress than one of a very fine black alpaca. Remember that you can purchase a really beautiful quality, which is very wide, for from $2 50 to $3 50 per yard. Of course, it has the effect of silk and is in every respect superior to any other fabric in this respect, that after a brief stay in the water flannel clings in a most unbecoming and aggra- vating manzner; but aipaca sheds the water at once. [doin all cases advocate black braided with white—just a little white to relieve the costume, Last season some of the pretty bathers wore over their tresses gayly colored bandkerchiefs, but after a few moments’ contact with the salt water they were completely ruined, so really a black one or one of white silk is most useful. naty g in adorned with ribbon or lace bows inter- mixed with flowers, and an aigrette of black feathers, usualiy three in number. A good hat is a green tulle and shot straw with a full cre colored - lace accordion- pleated and taffeta ribbon, shading from | chartreuse to heliotrope and a bunch of iris. A young girl here is a picture in a chapeau, which hasa brim of gold . satin straw and a crown of cream tulle. It is trimmed with cherries, green wings and white glace ribbon. Gainsborough hat of drawn black tulie has, around the crown, a box-pleated edge of lace, a group of black feathers; a | bunen of roses and tulie strings completes a hat worthy to be worn by a dark-eyed belle. Bathing suits are being seriously con- sidered by many of us at this season, ana, having just read in Vogue some such ex- cellent remarks on this subject, I here quote them for the benefit of all about to make such a purchage. A gown will accompany a debutante to Te Monte of white satin, with a bodice siply draped across the figure. Long ends of satin ribbon_ fail from the waist to the hem frin:ed with lilies of the valley. Around the skirt is a ruche of mousseline de sote, and the sleeves are of the mousse- line, caught up with bunches of the lilie: A ruche of the lilies and mousseline sur- round the square-cut neck. Black and white continues 10 be regarded with the greatest favor, and where bro- cades or tissues are employed for a robe, the results are, in many cases, simply de- lightful. For exampie, veil a white glace with mousseline de soie, which is run with real black lace insertion and frilled with black lace. The sleevesof the mousse- line can be treated in the same way, and the bodice draped to suii the figure. Such agown should be extremely chic. Violets should be worn with it. ified with Venetian point outlined with | /! ///‘ _— | from New York. For instance, several | men have been seen wearing with their | Tuxedo coats waistcoats of black satin, | and ‘“gaudy” waistcoats of every con- | ceivable fabric are being worn with | frock coat, lounge suit, and even | | with evening dress. What these changes | | are leading up to it is difficult to predict positively, but it would not surprise me to | see a revolution in evening dress. Men | have discovered how comfortable and be- coming knickers are to many of them, and not a few of the leading tailors in London are striving to have knee- breeches worn and colored cloths of the finest texture are suggested for the com- | position of such suits, and if they are ever | accepted it will be but a step to velvet. | Each fall this change is agitated and thus | far social leaders have been too conserva- | | tive to consider seriously so great an inno- | vation. That it would in all respects be = | welcome one is open to question. 1 have | had our artist present you with an illus- | tration showing the ideas on this subject of a well-known London tailor. Patent leather shoes are not appropriate | with a lounge suit. | Now that golf is increasing in popular- | ity and every other man rides a bicycle, it | would be well to remember that “High- | land gaiters are worn with knickers when playing golf, but not when riding a bicy cle. Thisis not an arbitrary distinction, but based on good sense. In fact, no arti- cle of dress should be without its reason and its time and season. When playing golf, climbing over hills in rocky and stub- | Some startling innovations are reported | bly ground and all the unevenness of an it 9 i j‘hlu‘\lu-. open country, it is quite manifest that gaiters are not only serviceable but neces- sary. When riding a bicycle they serve no purpose under the sun except to make the | rider look ridiculous.” Also note: ““There is one difference be- tween tennis and golf in regard to dress. | There is no recognized smart reception or evening dress for tenni: ‘When a tennis- player puts aside his flannels he dresses for the evening or the aiternoon in ordi- nary dress. When a golfer finishes his game and goes into a reception-room of the clubhouse or joins in a dinner or luncheon, there is a dress suit, just as there is 8 hunting dress for evening or dinner. The dress suit is whatever the individual cares to make it, excepf as to the coat, which is almost variably a red jacket, cut with rolling collar, buttoning high in the front with gilt buttons | marked with the initials of the club of which the wearer is a member. In minor | pariiculars these coats differ, but chiefly in the collars, which are of black or‘ white or dark green. The buckskin waist- coat would seem to be bad form inany event.” Ushers at weddings wear gloves of white glace kid, which- may or may not have | black stitching, but it must be very incon- | spicuous if preferred. Boutonnieres of lilies of the valiey have been much liked | and promise to remain popular. Colored shirts fer men are in great vogue. Blue is the favorite. Blue and | stripes are most liked. Shirts in solid blues, browns, pinks, yellows, heliotropes | Marseilles being the thing. A dear little coat, which can be made of accordion pleated silk hangin; ruffled with pleated chiffon. A swell sacque coat is made of a stead of sleeves. It has short revers of whi black An interesting jacket is composed of being trimmed with a gold embroidery, tied with bows of black satin ribbon. M plain facecloth. revealing a vest of yoke and collar. A cloak for the races made of shot green, pink and broidered grass lawn. The over sleeves a back, below the waist, of the shot silk, and brought rou wear with or without a silk shp. The slipm tations of yellow lace are set color covers the shouldera, W captivating than this Undine vision have I For years French wome c fectly cut anda it dusters composed of fasci ize that they are not only long and tedious journey. Astor, who is assuredly one of unless you have a well-trained every minute detail of your toile! ““Now, a word about capes. success; for instance, a trellis work of grass lawn traced with gol lace or mousseline de soze. tion—are enjoyi silks. Laces are maid, you New ideas rose petals. are of good fabrics whicl inations of cheap net, and yet cheaper lace. gown with which they may be worn. Our tiny sunshades are decreasing in s they keep on we will soon be using t_he we three generations ago. They had ivory handles which doubled up, thus permit- ting our great-grandmothers to carry. them | in thelr pockets. Now they are exquisitely pretty, and never has so much taste been displayed either in the silk coverings or trimmings or the handles. Some lovely ones in white, with flowers of every hue painted or printed upon them— convolvuli poppies, primroses and Japanese tulips are the favorites, and each sunshade has a handle that harmonizes with the colors ot the flowers and a knob incrusted with pre- cious stones. and buffs are to be had. When the mate- | rial is striped the pattern, of course, runs up and down. The cuffs match the shirt, | but the collar must be white, either | straight standing or turned down all around, or it may have deep wings at the | throat. “Two buttons are the vogue.” | In England the most fashionable shirts have soft fronts, and in some cases have both coliar and cuffs of white stuff. All silk, cheviot, madras and flannel have | white cuffs attached. Blue and pink shirts are also considered smart in Lon- | don, and the soft-bosomed shirts will be | the only ones worn when traveling by | those who make a study of being com- fortable, but declares an authority |hst‘ far and away the smartest summer shirt is | a plain white, very thin, figured French lawn. The fignre is woven into the goods, and, of course, is white als6. These shirts are not ready made, and can only be ob- tained on order, and very few haber- | dashers make them. They are much more expensive than the colored shirts and are | | NEW TO-DAY. much more attractive. Four-in-hands are tied in sailor knots | and club ties in double knots. Cotton ties baving patterns are not so popular as those of one color. Tne latest walking-gloves are of gray suede. The only fashionable soft hat is the Hamburg, in brown or black. The correct Derby hat hasa high crown and narrow brim. ‘White silk waistcoats are not considered in the least stylish, those of duck or fine C. C. b v v 9 b * * v - b < b b : 4 * * <® ¥ b4 . 2 PRV RRPR PP R PR RV PP R PR RSP ‘HOW BACHELOR GIRL Apartment life for women wage-earners | in great cities is a problem not yet solved. | At first thought one would imagine that | proper accommodations for self-support- | | ing and self-respecting women would long | | ere this have been the natural outgrowth | of the influx of women into business and | | the professions, but I find on investigation | that the contrary is true, writes Mary C. Francis in the Boston Post. Women as a sex are proverbially eco- | nomical. The strugzgling young art or musical student, the unfledged newspaper woman deluded with vain hopes of the magazines, the great army of eager. anx- | | jous aspiranrts of all ranks and prof essions, | | 1 invade Gotham year after year, live in | | dingy hall bedrooms, and work on bravely and sometimes hopelessly. Worst of all, too many economize in the matter of food. If the average American woman yet | needs to be taught one thing more than another it is that the drain on t .e physical | system caused by coping with the con- ditions of life n “great cities must be re- plenished by proper, nourishing food. | Here again the question of expense, proper cooking and service intervene, and thus bandicapped by ber sex and the questions of sufficient lizht, ventilation and sanitary provisions the woman wage- earner in any large city has the problem of life made doubly ditlicult for her. Add | to thig the element of loneliness that ob- tains in a center of commercial activity, where the greed for the dollar has dwarfed much of human sympathy, and reflect then on the life that thousands of women lead on a slender salary or a precarious in- come of uncertain amount. She is pure, she must live, she must A7 f *‘ S LIV succeed, she must remain honest and | self-respecting. What, then, can she do? How will she live? . How does she live? Although the facts in this article relate only to New York City, the principle ot the subject is equaily applicable to Chi- cago, San Francisco, Philadelphia, Cin- cinnati, and all large cities. Comparatively limited statistics from these cities show conclusively that no adequate provision is made in any of these places for woman wage-earners. In Cincinnati, for example, the greatest effort made thus far in this direction has undoubtedly been made by the Y. W. C. an organization which in every fter the welfare of young city lo 'a women, but they are seriously hampered | by lack of funds and a proper building. | The small university settlement isyetan experiment, and there is no apartment | house or hotel for women or any accom- | modation whatever beyond the ordinary | boarding-house. | It is estimated that'there arein New York Uity alone 50,000 unmarried women | whose earnings are less than $10 each per | week. The greater percentage of these | have neither home nor family, and must | live as best they can on thatincome. It | is difficult to fix an ordinarily accurate es- | timate of self-supporting women in all de- | grees of professional life, but of women permanently or temporarily located in | but inevitable ® € b4 ® b | & ® New York City—art and music teachers, are all the rage now. Nine handsome lawyers, doctors, newspaper women, | ‘® styles, regularly $2 75, $3 and $3 50, g0 writers, teachers of physical culture, elo- on sele until Wednesday night at $175, cutionists and many others—there are not | @ $190and $210. Ierinated Wit Bios less than 100,000 without any home life | & Delft Marine Scenes, Bresden Hlower other than that which they are able to "w’}nd—ow. Lieniy make for themselves. Tt must be noted | > that many included in this estimate earn good saliries and are in prosperous cir- r | are 1 prosperol 4 THAT BIG CHINA STORE— cumstances, but in New York City the problem of living relates almost as much | : A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve’s. t0 an ordiary income as toactual poverty. | % WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIK & 00, Driven to escape in some ‘manner from # 528 and 530 Market St., an unpleasant envirlonbmentimzmy a bach- elor girl flies from the boarding-house and | # 27 and 29 Sutter St., ® BELOW MONTGOMERY. ¥ g | v ! b3 v v v eageriy seeks the other extreme. She rents a studio or a bare room in the top of some | skyscraper and vroceeds to live the life of a semi-bouemian, “for all the world likea | man!” This means that she makes coffee and boils an egg over the gas or on a tiny stove for breakfast, has an apple or an orange for lunch, and very likely the all | cent table d'hote dinner. | This type of bachelor girl has three or four girl friends, all fixed about as sheis | berself. They sometimes drop in of an | evening, and thev discuss possibilities and | ways and means without arriving at any defipite conclusion. On the evenings when * . v * b *| ¥ * < < % * * B et studd dged 3 ore simple, and equally stylish, is a jacket of white pique elaborately hemstitched around its ties with parrow ribbon at the armholes and in thi around the bottom. b ith ruff of green mousseline finishing the neck. Plisses of mousseline intermixed with lace, trim the fronts, which han, a great convenience, « gowned we must be guiltless of Gust and soot, even if we have just arrivea fron No woman East is more particular than Mrs. John f the best-dressed women to be seen in her set. iiiiiiiiii?i?b’?iiiiiz { GHE SPAMNSH DBST CL6AK 18 1R YOGUE. worn equally well in the day or evening time, is g Iroex(xln a yyoke embroidered with black and silk facecloth with a deep epaulette effect, in te satin and uniquely lovely enameled but- tons. This little garment will be extremely useful during the coming season. cordion-pleated shot silk, the shoulders ac ed with sequins and edged with chiffon, Iately designed for a8 matron noted for her taste in dress, is mauve glace silk, with a bodice which has braces of em- re trimed with frills of the same and at the is a pleated frill of watered ribbon, displaying the three colors nd with long endsto tie in the front. : Ravissante is a long summer cloak of eau de Nile mousseline de soie, made to atches in color, is as soft as marcelline, and e back of neck when worn. Incrus- A lace cardinal’s cape to match in g loose. Nothing more seen. n have appreciated dust cloaks (they are really very per- nating fabrics), and at last Americans real- but almost a necessity, as to look we 2 b Indeed will find it no light task to always have t as it should be to stand Madame Fashion’s criticisim are constantly being carried out with rare mentally contemplate one of white glace silk entirely veiled with ld thread and edged with ruches of black White capes—that is to say, those having a white founda- ng a great vogue, as well as those of gauzy white a(.uf{ over colored frequently used, as well as grass linen so decorated with embroideries, Jaces and insertions that they can scarcely be recognized. One of our rarely lovely belles takes this month to Newport a sortie de balof white satin, covered by a deep cape of yellowish real Brussels lace, completed at the neck by a ruche of creamy white So large are many of the ruches that they closely resemble small capes and are certainly becoming to tall and slender figures, provided, of course, that they h have been handled artistically, but deliver me from the abom- Such things spoil the style of any good ize most rapidly, and it is predicted that if e bit affairs of silk and lace so much liked SOLE AGENTS FOR THE MAGGIONI KID GLOVES. NEW GOODS —ON— SPECIAL SALE! | Ribbons, Gloves and Ladies’ Skirts. Don’t waste time and money in shopping when you can secure such values as these RIBBONS. 8500 yards Fancy Silk Ribbons, 5 inches wide, in the very latest patterns in Dres. den, Changeable, Ombre and Figured, regular value 75¢ and 85¢ per yard. Special 50c¢ per Yard. These goods should not be confounded with inferior qualities. as they are superior goods of the BEST make. GLOVES. Continuation Sale of our well-known La- dies’ 4-Button Celebrated ENNEL'S KID GLOVES. Special - $1.25 per Pair. All colors—all sizes. Ever; the hand by experienced anteed. SKIRTS. pair fitted to tiers and guar. they do not drop in the girl bachelor mends her clothes or makes a spring hat; while she wishes cbat she were rich. 22 Geary St., Near Kearny. PRIESTLY’S BLACK G00DS. Being the depot for Priestly’s Cele~ brated Black Dress Goods, our patrons are always assured of reliable fabrics. as well as the most recent designs and | | | | [ | l | |l styles. | JUST REGEIVED. 1 PRIESTLY'S FANCIES......$1.00Yard [ | PRIESTLY’S FANCIES. .....$1.25 Yard | PRIESTLY'SFANCIES. ... $1.50 Yard @ | PRIESTLY'S FANCIES. .....$1.75 Yard PRIESTLY'S FANCIES. ......$2.00 Yard Goods sent C. O. D. Samples forwarded. j R. T. KEANEDY GOWPANY. / 7% f/w& 1y, THESUCCESS OF THE SEASO THE LADIES' GRILL RooM —0F THE—— PALAGE HOTEL, DIRECT ENTRANCE FROM MARKET SI. e‘P’EN UNTIL MIDNIGHT. ELELTROLYSIS € 1170MarKEeT T, CORNERTAYLO REMOVEB SUPERFLUOUS HAIR BY ELEC- tricity at $1 a sitting; first sitting free: no scarsleft; moles, warts, etc,, also removed, l Ladies’ Grass Linen Skirts, extra wide, two ruffles, edged with Van Dyke braid. Special $1.25 Each. Ladies’ Tofle du Nord Skirts, extra wide, wide flounce, trimmed with wave braid. Special $1.25 Each. Ladies’ Mohair Skirts, in fancy colors, large variety, lowest prices. See “Chronicle” and “Examiner” for values in other departments. Mail Orders Promptly Filled. NEWMAN & LEVINSON, 125, 127, 129, 131 Kearny Street. BRANCH STORE—742 and 744 Market Street. FREUD'S CORSET HOUSE. JUST RECEIVED—A LARGE INVOICE OF Long-Waisted P. D. Sans Rival Corsets, . P. a la Sirene Corsets, Celebrated Royal C. T. Corsets, Elegant N. T. French Corsets, Unrivaled Werly Corsets, Bioyele Corsets. The Relgning Fashionable LOUIS XV PARISIAN CORSET and THE OLGA CORSET. . & Il A H a8 H H % nES N EEH £Z 8iZ s 38" o® %2 e g3 2 2 2=l (382 < .| | i £5i ) as =E {158 - - 2 a Za L) 8 H 5} 2 CAUTION — Having no ol by stores, our Corseta can be purchased 081y ot our establishment. orde: [ T oA R e o MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS M. FREUD o& SO, 742-744 Narket St. and 10-12 Grant Ave,