Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, October 25, 1903, Page 26

What is Going On in Woman’s World of Fashion EW YORK, Oct Dame I'ashion hus surely been delving in her rag bag lately, for its influence is undoubtedly felt in the new mil- linery., Anything from an odd eteel hutton to a wisp of velling four inches wide seems to go upon the headgear of the hour, and go deliclously at that. Womankind is reverting to the time when any pretty trifle in a woman's workbox was thought suitable ornament for her hcaddress; and with the wild blur of color, the gimps and tassels and ravelled silks, tho wreaths of tiny birds and roses like penwipers, a quality almost lost of late years has been regained. Femininity is the name of this preclous quality—and its gec- ond title is foollshness; two elements as necessary in a pretty woman's get-up as ©zone in the alr that she breathes, Beginning with ostrich feathers alone, they are all wondrously glddy and fetch- fng. Shading from the deepest to the palest tints, their purples, pinks, blues or greens ornament big hats in velvet or beaver, in the darkest tint of the plume. Scarfs of Lcuisino sllk, ravelled at the edges and gilt buckle, are additional trimming for &uch headgear. The brims are wired Into odd curves and the facings, which are shirred over cords in many complicated Ways, are put upon the felt hats quite two irches from the edge. This leaves & supple and becoming border all around, which softness is accentuated by the fall of the new plume, The new plume I1s a thing of beauty and & joy forever, Cal'ed snake feathers— wherefore nobody knows, for the ostrich Is responsible for their foundation—these fluffy, fringy ornaments fall like the foliage of the willow tree. However short the fenther, the soft swaying fringe gives it a look of opulence, while the long ones so treated ‘em the Dbirthright of royalty alone, Superb purples and faint violets were displayed by such a plume put straight across the top of a flat purple velvet hat The fluffy end fell fay below the rim at the back, and around the crown were dis- posed some rich medallions in Russian lace, The lace of all the hew millinery is of the heaviest description and the most effective webs have a rude handmade look. Buch sorts in mellow €CTrus are put over dead white chiffon and combined with moleskin or gunmetal gray velvet for both brim hats and turbans Headgear of the last description is to be much worn., Vast numbers of turbans are seen, many in a white braid which imitates Persian lamb, and many in wired chenille, The lines of the correct turban borrow definitely from the sixties, when such head coverings were shaped in imitation of sun- boats. Gunboats they were then called, and Eince “boat-shaped turbans' is the new title, the theft can be readily placed, When posed upon the head the pointed of the boat turban Juts far over the fore- head; the rounded stern leaves much of the head exposed, and the whole effect of the structure is one of audacious smart- ness, prow The boat-shaped sailor Is another mo- diste's fancy, though in this case the craft Is a double ender ana placed sidewise on the head. Measured this way its dimen- slons are startling, but sized up the o!'her the boat sallo. is only becomingly big and its rounded triangle permits of much co- quettish treatment, A boat turban of white felt was wreathed with tiny white birds, whose flat bodies were plastered at the upper edge of the crown as if glued there. These feathered dwarfs are dubbed Chinese birds, and cer- tainly their parrot-like bills and vividly yellow feet recall the grotesqueries of the Orient. With them plain taffeta, in puffed brim edges and bias crown scarfs, is much used; and upon wired lace or fancy braid hats pinked taffeta |s enormously em- ployed. This is fashioned in wide and nar- row ruches, doubled, trebled and quad- rupled, the fuller ruches widening the try- ing high crowns and smaller ones raising flat brims to more desirable effects, The tendency of all headgear is toward elevation of line. Crowns are lifting higher ana higher, brims roll up from the face and simple dish shapes are raised from the head with wider bands than were ever used before. But with it all the popu- lar taste is more toward high-crowned undulated ones. So a perfectly flat shape, say of shirred velvet, will take to a slop- ing railing around the edge of the brim of ravelled silk or braided gimp, which gives it enough lift to pass muster. Another flat, straight brim will be covered with great loose rolls of tulle, or it may be banked by rugged chrysanthemums whose gaudy hues are softened by the wisps of velling mentioned The new flower In the garden of millinery is artificlal In the extreme. If a rose, it is preferably a bumpy, waxen thing of white satin ribbon, or a ghostly flat shadow of tinted callico with petals patemtly pointed with the scissors, and centers that bear no resemblance to nature. Neverthe- less, such openly fabricated blossoms have & charming novelly and woman turns to them from more perfect flowers with a @clight in their insolence. One big hat of pale gray felt with gun- metal velvet—a very stylish color—was dotted at the top of the brim with these penwiper roses in the hard gray of the velvet trimming. A purple velvet hat em- ployed pale blue in its color scheme, a tint as faint as any and tinging on green, Other modish combinations are orange and white, brown and black and green and blue. Birds in all sizes are everywhere seen, and a number of stylish walking hats are made entirely of breast feathers in speckled browns and blacks and iridesc ent greens and blues. Any piebald effect that is not too extravagant is much admired. Indeed, several of the French hats take even to extravagance in this direction and are not injured thereby; one panne velvet brim scarf and puffed crown suggesting, with their mottled browns and blacks and whites, the beauty of leopard skin, S0 much for the definitely new in mil- linery, unless it may be added that a num- ber of the boat turbans are fashioned com- pletely of narrow braided velvets, which are a marked feature of the moment. Wida raised crowns are also often made of these Up-to-Date Bridal Bouquet a JWEVER heedless of fashions a mald may have been in her callow days, she is always seized with a deeire to be fashionable at her wedding, and it is the despair of the girl about to marry a $50-a-week man that he cannot provide her with the only bouquet that smart people approve as en- tirely fashionable—white orchids and lilies- of-the-valley. While a wealthy bridegroom pays as high as $250 to $400 for such a bou- quet, the average well-to-ao man contents himself with paying $160, the general price of the bride's bouquet of today. Of course Hllon-o!-lhe-vulley and bride roses and white chrysanthemums may all be carried with good taste, but they are no longer fashionable. They are simply sanctioned by society. The bridegroom himself, if he wants to be in style, wears a large gardenia In his buttonhole, and presents the bridesmaids with flowers suited to their frocks. Brides- malds’ bouquets are now chosen entirely with regard to the material of the frock to be worn and its coloring, but favorite flowers for autumn bridesmaids are white roses, pink roses, American Beauties and violets. Of course, shower bouquets are the rage and add effectively to the appearance of a frock. Orange blossoms crown the hea@ of the autumn bride, the mists of dotted duchesse net, with wide borders of fine duchesse lace, fall in filmy folds from the white blossoms in her hair. So important a part does fashion play In all the events of modern life that even the decoration for a dinner to be given to a bride is set forth in unwritten laws that are as rigidly obeyed as any set forth in statute books. The table for a bride's luncheon or dinner is spread with a cloth of fashionable linen or lace or both, and lighted by electroliers in graceful candela- bra, a five-branched silver candelabra, in empire style, standing in the center of the table, with dainty white silk floral shades, fringed with clear beads, above the imita- tion white wax candles. Pale green—or the very palest of pink shades—may be used with a sprig of orange blossoms. At each corner of the table a single candlestick electrolier, similarly shaded, stands and matches the center one in design and height, although it would be much prettier to have corner candelabra smaller, as to PHASES OF MILLINERY APPROVED BY SMART MAIDS. braided veivet ribbons, which are some- times less than an inch wide; and in stiff loops of varying widths they form the rear falls of much headgear for practical service. Gun-metal gray is a favorite color for them, but this is always relieved with white or gray so pale as to seem white. Since shaded effects are everywnere em- ployed, more than one braided velvet tur- ban has in spots the prevalent faded look. Ready-to-wear hats, such as require the merest addition to be complete, are more the usual thing in make and material. A number of jaunty puffy shapes, rolling away from the face, and half turban brim hats, are made of beaver felt plateaux put over buckram frames, A pair of short feathers or ribbon bows are sometimes seen on these, and if the felt is mingled with velvet the big quills of the plumes may be inserted in metal or jeweled sheaths, Black velvet and black malines compose hats of a picturesque nature for afternoon visiting and driving. Big clumps of the fringing feathers, or a single magnificent plume, will deck such models, and since height, and a few people have them so. The flowers are arranged in flat effects, with loose blossoms strewn over the table, and sometimes the corsage bouquets of the women are banked against a low platter, as a table decoration, and distributed after thé meal Fashionable table adornments that are dreams of floral beauty consist of white jasmines and gardenias, with aspara- gus and trifoliata ferns, by way of foliage; or cattelaye orchids are mingled with the same delicate ferns, and look like flights of white butterflies floating among the lace and sllver and crystal of the table service. Another modish way of decorating a bride's table is with lilles-of-the-valley and violets, with fairy-like fronds of asparagus fern and the trifollata maidenhair. Glim- mering silver favors for the guests often add attractiveness to the decorations, and as frequently the favors consist of white their wide brims are partly transparent the elaborate effect of them is marked. For ordinary service the woman of mod- erate means will find the ready-to-wear headpieces much cheaper than the modiste's wares, and more suited to prac- tical needs besides. Strikingly effective rolling shapes of chenille braid and taffeta combined can be had for $5; such models needing perhaps only a velvet or silk ro- sette or a fall of some sort at the back. Taffeta sailors, finished to the last notch, sell for $4.50, and smart felt turbans with braid trimmings go even cheaper. The fancy neckpieces and muffs turned out by milliners and often sold with match- ing hats are of indescribable beauty this year. Some rare fur, lace, chiffon and chenille fringe may all appear in a single set, whose object is to glorify a reception or driving costume of equal splendor. Moleskin, Irish lace and kiited white chif- fon composed one such outlay. Topped by a moleskin turban, the pelerine and muff were to be worn with a gown in pale gray cloth, simply strapped with the same. MARY DEAN. Costly Affair lace and pearl fans, or white gauze and lace affairs, dainty enough for Titanla teo use. Popular dinner and lunch cards for bridal dinners and luncheons consist of white bells, wreathed in pink roses or orange blossoms, and tied with bows of white satin baby ribbon for the women, and white slippers, tied with a bow of white ribhon, and having a sprig of orange blossoms over the instep, for the men Canopies are going out of style for wed- ding decorations. In their stead curtains of smilax sway like the doors to sempiternal spring, and banks and groups of decorative plants are arranged with a view to artistic effects, while sometimes a bridal flower 1s scattered through the scheme of decora- tions, such as white roses, jasmine and—for a late autumn wedding--white chrysanthe- mums, 3\ N S ‘-\S N - LA N N7 & Look for . — - \ s N Cd 7 - SAMUEL the name Cut Glass The World’s Best has received highest awards for quality at every competitive exhibit engraved on UOM » every piece. EXCLUSIVE AGENT FOR OMAHA BURNS, 1318 FARNAM s,