Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 29, 1901, Page 22

= FEATURES OF STYLES, Wnge for HMirds on Hats=Passing of the Separate Walst NEW YORK Hats show a te a » improve in becomingness as the scasor ith patlent search 1t t we may all be sulted in time, Bt hag « medifying in eccentricity they make up for It in odd and perishab materials hats being seen of cock's | feathers, roiied tightly to imitate satin brald. The ro undoubtedly novel, but 1t naturally follows that such frail and ensily rufficd surfaces are scarcely prac ticable for woman who can afford bu one street headpluce A shape of folt or velvet, with a rolled brim of breast feathers, will be found more wensible purch tor fa the fnfluence of the bird that few chapeaus may be f a donation from some part of h Even where no other bird ¢ stuffed head ma big rosette of velvet or silk on s Those and slim, ltke the spoons, and paint and yellows that are pl iwork of man | orofore the offect of some of thes 18 grotesque in remind of the clown in who | the that does Again whole parrot bright blue perched upon crown, the head the front and th litted to date the rise at t k. Shaped delicate 1 stretched over to imitate quills found tive. entire the this u | mpant | run to very ast le—-long the extreme you the clreu nose ivid gr will widn pointing Mot iy More Sensible worth while | Coming to somoething r ! nings are too | ~for these w bird outre to be desirable—there are some protty round hats with rolled brims, all in changeable bre feathers, that may be recommended. These are trimmed at the | left side with made plumes of the same, | ending in floating tails. No other garniturs than the breasts is used h a hat| in green and black—Chanticleer's irid cence—if on just the right head, is tru bowlldering. The accompanying gown should be of black cloth in trim tailor style, with which a cock’s plume boa will be found a dashing finish With the round hats the manner in which and « {7 VERY MODISH they are to be worn depends largely on the disposition of the crown band, znd, as our fllustration shows, front, side and back tilts are all in vogue. The two lower stylos may be found among the made hats, in p and folded velvet and various novelty ma- terl whose decorative surfaces leave Httle room for other crnamentation. Such hats cost from $3.50 to $7, and the home milliner will find admnirable suggestions the simple metbods of trimming pictured bet The all featber hats are more expensive, costing from $9 up. And this fs without the eide breast trimming, mind you—a Iit tle matter of perhaps $3 more; total, $12 for anything that at all approaches the right mode. To conclude, your breast hat must n be carelessly brushed. A soft linen deftly applied the way tho feathers run will remove dus: without destroying the satin smoothness, which is the chiof charm of this epecies of headg Gowns Are All of o Kind. rag Costumes conslsting of a skirt of one color and bodice of another are no loug: admired for dressy house wear. The new tollottes d'intericur are all of a kind, as far as their ground principle is concerned and with these the cut-in-two lcok which the dark jupes and pole walists once 1s graclously eliminated How desperately weary we those gloomy black skirts and et bodles and how daintily fom color gowns seem by contrast! courae, they are made in (b and one trick to pres the broken tone at the walst !s to have stitched belt also of the gown ma Agaln, the walst may not even be o in the case of the tucked frock in the group picture where an armor of tu e = all marked by any girdling, goes from the lace yoke to the skirt inset, This very charming frc delighttul for slim fgure avolded by stiff, bulky ones a princess lining fi ng at The material s sky-blue ¢ is made ove: the back “A Blessing 0 all Great joy and comfort comes into every household when the virtue of ““ Alother’s Friend’’ is known. No more gloomy forebodi by expectant mothers, as all pain is pr external use of ** Mother's Frienc liniment. ‘There is nothing like it, B F.DROWN, of Wad: La, writes wied Mother s Frisnd. bafore coniinement, and sby e ordeal agol ) even i Cont 335 Sent by express e of pr Thood, wrliten especially for young o SOLD BY ALL DRUGGISTS, | etamine 2 | tn rever 1 hat. | © |and pink brocade over a filmy petticoat, of which though | ships that ¢ ® to . bad better be | y pe de chine or Many of my v THE BRADFI; guipure in Small cov- set an inch the with which a lace ochre-yellow contrasts richly ered buttons of the material apart, fasten it at the back down to plackey 1im! A chle dr a young woman, which may be madc in white, pale-toned or flowered silk, relies upon shaped box plaits and an undcriacing of black velvet ribbon o produce an effect more novel The plaits of this are made separately from the dress and lightly attached at the under- cam, here and there openings being left for the black velvet to pass through. Tho elbow sleeves are made entirely in this the plaits of the bodice approaching more closely at throat and walst line and a low-body under effect being created by a parent lace yoke, * fur the Middle Aged. A superb house gown for an elderly woman s shown In the third design. This Is made of black panne, in a sort of robe madel, that folding back at the shoulders of lichen-gray or lavender molre hite lace, falls gracefully away atl of sequi tted net over gray or T The puffed under- sleeves, topped by turn-back cuffs of the moire, are also of the scquined met as well s the gathered vest. On the straight neck- nd, h shows a lLecoming edge of the black pavne, a t e softeas the cheeks even Gow dged with from a pett will be largely reserved by mart women to wear in their own homes, with ita flowing lnes it is cesentlally tea gown in cffect, but it may be worn at utside functions. If other materials are preforred than those here employed black satin and polnt d'esprit will realize hand- sults; and if the wearer s one of those sweot le-chieeked elderly women Bray ue some who love color, made in the same way gray net, will be found charming Old women are not as somber in dr wadays as once were. The wor! may blame them for it and say, “at her but for my part there fs nothing I love s0 much as to see some fine clderly woman clinging to the lovely tints of youth We are old soon enough, heaven knows, and in these coquettish grandmammas we may discern a pleasant forgetfulness of the fact So let us encourage thelr sweet weakness The Bolero Redivivus, they Like the voice of the turtle, the call of the bolero is again heard In the land, and considering how very becoming are its STREET GOWN. (dainty details, their continued popularity | | s pot ustonishing. But fashion must al- | | ways do something to make you beliove you |are getting a new dose, so the latest | boleros iun to all sorts of little tricks to | vary them from the summer styles. Most | commonly they form the upper garment of a costume whose skirt may show no sign of the embrolderies and stole ends lavished on the jacket. The outdoor gown | pletured shows this modish cccentricity, in waterlal of plum and black wool classed under the genmeric head of invisi- | ble check. Just what invisible means to the manufacturers we should like to know, as all of these checked materials are | distinctly visible in pattern. Walving this inconsistency. some of the checked ma- tevials are very beautiful, especially cer- tain ones with a camels’ halr softness and a surface shadowing of long bairs To return to the street gown, plum wool potted with black forms the skirt gores which are narrowly outlined with black velve Velvet leaves put on in applica- | tions apy in the embrolderics of the Jackets, whose curving lower line lifts | bigh at the back to jauntily display a white jacket for shopping is of mixed box cloth, with brown silk reed bone buttons. It is one really lish ready made Y wear MARY DEAN MISTRESS OF SKIBO CAS | Andrew Carnesie’s Wife s a Weman d Diguity, cars the columna of en filcd with gossin relating to drew Carnezie, great stoel magnate and philanthioplst, but thcre has been little £ail of b who has sharod the hard him in the days of bis ited not a little toward These who knew her ror neglo {8 a woman well quall adern any tion with which | of Grace a he newspapers that Mrs. fled to Women” ngs Or nervousness ted by the 1," the marvelous : friends have Jertun This reluctance to thrust fortune may favor her. She does not court the attention of the “‘personal paragraph 1st” and shudders, it fs sald, at the word interviewer. She prefers t rogarded merely as the mistross of Skibo castle rather than as a person of pu interest herself forward who has had the | Charming, vi- | § Is apparent to everyone honor of being her guest vaclous, clever and a hostess, sh: soems to studiously avold saying or doing anything which the visite y esteem of mode sufficient mportance to repeat to the out- side world. Wherefore the soclety colum fs seldom enriched by a paragraph about Mrs. Carnegic One story, however, may be told illus- trative of the devotion in which the man of millions holds his wife. A pretty little custom which Mrs. Carnegle adops at her dinner parties is to put into a small silk bag slips of paper bearing the names of all the ladies present. Then, just before dinner 1s announced, she carries the ba around to all the male guests and each “dips” for his partner at table. One evening Mr. Carnegie “drew” his wife. His boylsh delight was immense. Hoiding the slip of paper so that all the company could see the name inscribed thereon, he playfully invited the men to make bids for it and the honor of “taking down” Mrs. Carnegle. Presently he grew serfous. “The offer is withdrawn,” he said. y luck is too preclous.”” It was also at one of these pleasant little gatherings that the conversation turned upon the desira bility or otherwise of an Anglo-American alllance. Mrs. Carnegle raised the ques- tlon of what would be the most suitable flower as a binational emblem “I would suggest the promptly replied Mr. Carnegie would stand for the cute Yankee business man and the rest of the word for the Brit- ish llon. Such a blossom ought to rule the world. Mrs. Carnegie Is a clever photographer, but whether she agrees with a remark her husband made on her art is not known. “A great thing, this instantancous pho- tography,” said the laird of Skibo. “One has not time to look his very worst.”” Mrs Carnegle is twenty years younger than her husband. He did not marry until late in Iite and after the death of his mother, to whom he was greatly attached. There Is a daughter, a winsome little miss, in vhose name Skibo was purchased. “Dandy WOMEN'S BS. The Work They Are Do They Mean t Helen Churchill Candee discusses in the | Aeietoe Cenepry (he characteristics of the & and What | Do. presidents of women's clubs, and comments | lington & fem or of Democracy public Political the Chinese low Man be More E ness Cenfuclanism or on the Self-Respect- ing Ideals of Buddhism?" Does when an American woman determines to do | | & thing she does it, withc quire if it is among the possibilities? well she does it {s another matter. ollection par &l to | without t advantages of a either public or g o, and with lucational advantages beyond a local paper: “Was the Victory of Wel Waterloo a Triumph of Medisval “Is the French Re Hiustration of the Ideas of Rousseau The R sblem of Southeastern Europe, simism of the Russian Novel” Common Hatred of the Japanese tor the European Form a he prairies of the m of the oples for papers r Ours the Best and Bond Strong Enough to Hold China for the Yel . NI Fiadicaas FROCKS FOR ALL AGES. “Will Christian Ethical Ideas | sily Grafted on the Cold Selfi not this illustrate the idea that stopping to in- How My rec- case she questions, that in most of this the suggests ghingly evaded and made up by general cordiality and light refreshments by tute in a border town barren of social life. Of 200 clubs In New York state, half are literary. statlstic culture club thing in | which shapes our ends. be considered erudite, to know a little more than more sumptuous edition of mandate in baby days: to the head of the cluss. And yet, notwithstanding its popularity, an unquiet longiug possesses, L0 some ex- tent, dandellon,” | for self-culture bearing the name of liter- ature, this no means a poor substi- This spark from the log of shows the popularity of the self- | There undoubtedly is some- | it which appeals to the vanity | It is gratifying to | neighbors know. It is like a the teacher's “You may step up your the club which hangs out its banner And the topics. trend of art, music, or longing current illustrates the day in women's clubs, it is a longing toward practicality, Altruism being the watch- word of the day, and brotherly love an in- croasing passion, women are not long con- tent to serve clubs for only themselves. And so the self-culture are feellng restless stirrings of wishing to do something for the com| pre haps they wi unity. Fortunately, there are ap- cts for them all, and per- dvance toward these. Is @ shion. Plum red is a fashionable color for um- brellas Band trimmings are consplcuous on the new skirts. am doubtedly Deerskin gloves in ntlet shapes are ng the novelities for winter, felts and silky beavers are un- the fuvorite autumn hat mate- Shagey rials, [ Silver tissue 1s being much used as a Some of the new evening slippers have a uble row of straps buttoning directly up > middle of the ankle. @ BOYULT UL HATS, lands, re petiicoat | the Will |l which ar t and Vhite taffeta flounce of fine nat k. heavily embrofdered with floral gar- Vresents the newcat and d et \Futtle of Vaienclennes fini den effects extensively walsts | ns In platds, checks, Dr ¢ faney weaves will be r o trimming pUrposes, fancy kwear The Dresden patterns are ¥ 1! paper {e called Car- fke the marble for test note ote nd fit into an en- snter over with tiny jet A new style and s ts named. Th 16 and narrow pe doubling fn th Wh et dottel al ®pots and with n border of black lace plied on the white ground and heavily crusted with jet s among the most e qulsite of (he new robe mater! An exquisite empire gown tly shown by a Parisian dressmaker '+ made entirely of paflicttes in w dull shade of gold. ' kirt fs bordered by glittering, paillettes in floral _de in_ relfef e bodice 18 of | gulpure lace edged with yellow chiffon. For and About Wom \roness Hurdett-Coutts, famous for philanthropy, was born just ber and i therefore past M Her . Willlam Ashmead Burdett- Coutts, 18 about 5. Duxhurst Homes, the new English re- formatory for inebriated women, wa b JACKET. . —— -— NATTY SHOPPING opened on August 27 with appropriate cere- monles, Lady Henry Somerset being pres- ent. A plece of land at Pinebluft, N. C., has been glven to Mrs. Marion A.' McBride of Eoston, the superintendent of domestic nee of the Woman's Christian Temper- ance union, and a home, to be called the Mary A, Livermore home, will be bullt where ‘worn-out Woman's Christlan Tem- perance union workers may recruit their strength. Kitchens speclally fitted for the purpose will be used for canning and pre- gerving southern [ruit for northern mar- e Mrs. Isabella Bird Bishop, the traveler and author, has offered herself to the bishop of Calcutta for mission work in India. When she began her extensive travels Mrs. Bishop was a decided opponent of missions, but has been completely con- verted by hier visits to mission lands, until now she proposes to become # missionary herself. She has visited more mission fields and stations in many lands and of all re- liglous bodfes than any other person. It 18 supposed she will be self-sustaining in her missionary work. The ninth annual convention of Daughters of the King, an Episc sanization, numbering in America ¢ ters, with a total membership of 15,000, will be feld In San Francisco from October 2 to 9. inclusive, and will draw together repre- sentatives from nearly all the states Rev. Dr. Willlam F. Nichols, bishop Calitornia, will make the address of wel- come, the opening days will be given to business, s | services have been ar- ranged for Bunday, October 6, and the last day will be spent fn sightsee(ng New Things in Jewelry, Buffalo hide fitted hags are swell affairs for the autumn traveier. Winged devices are well to the front in the procession of brooches. An oval stone of sea green hue is strik ingly effective in a man's seal ring. Stiver girdles to be worn over a silk belt are heavy in character and of dark oxidized | finish. Unique as a brooch is a_golden dragon holding In its mouth a large diamond. A ar plerces its body sfan_enamel I# to be in high favor for swelry. Rings, bracelets, chains, watches and brooches are o 4 with it hirtwalst set of links and round opals set in r bright gold. Photo rings are the latest adaptation of a popular fdea. In torm these are gold sig- net rings, either plaln o carved, fn which @ tiny photograph takes the place of the usual engraved device The mirror charm, intended to be worn on long neck-chain, {s a novelty Iikely to in- rest the trinket lover. It conslsts of two which slide open, revealing a tiny* The front of the chain is enameled floral or figure desi left plain for the parts, | mirror. The Influence of the season appears in the decoration of clgar and cizarette cases, | flasks. match boxes, men's card cases and the ke whole side of each {s enam- led with 4 scene fllustrative of sports and pastimes. Horsc racing. coaching, boating, yachting, shooting, fishing, polo, golf, ten- nis—nothing is forgotten. It s not neceseary nowadave to have one's ears plerced in order to wear earrings o of the latest designs In earrings shows ariw pearl on a mounting of gold that is almost invisible. A narrow gold wire curves from the gold 18 to the back of | w clamps the ear e firmly 1o the lobe of the ear, Jtle at the drug store, A | White Smoke from Soft Coal munl Oak Furna » wood burn, give furnaces, because all the g all the smoke nms h white from a Re soft coal; principle is not new, hut to the Rot holes large feed doors, whatever they han any other ses and nearly The smoke i3 1 0ak Furiace burning that means 1o v The ie application id Ok s new —in that no cut through the fire pot. Round Qak Furnaces '/ aro different from il others in many other things —in soitd onstruetion, ia wsonablenen 1t you greater Dovaglac, Makersor stive i he w0y Round Gui i w +*lng remot Omaha by Milton Rogers & Son B OPHDHIOOOOPOPELIOOINFOO HOE POOECOO OO © : THE FAWE OF MME. 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