The New York Herald Newspaper, October 11, 1875, Page 3

NEW YORK by scrambliag, | tered Muru, a district of Northern Urim!, on the 21st | rienced men to lead four several detachments, and gave , of January, orders that they should march in different directions through the valley and meet at some high rocks dis- tant five miles of that they should seize upon all cat- tle and burn every village as soon as taken. Obedient HERALD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 11, 1875.-TRIPLE SHEET. | 3 furrows in course of time, until at certain places the | port to you the death of your son Edward of typnord rocky kernel under the soil began to appear. The fur- ever. His service with me was brief, but it was long rows became enlarged, the water frittered away their enough for me to know tho greatness of your loss, banks and conveyed the earth away to lower levels, through which it wore away a channel first through the | for I doubt that few fathers can boast of such sons to push our way through crawling along the ground under natural ‘tan- nels of embracing shrubbery, cutting the couvolvull and‘ creepers, thrusting aside stout, thorny~ bushes, THE LEEWUMBU RIVER, ‘Tho villoge near which we camped ‘was called Vin- “HENRY Y. SIME The Great Explorer’s Story of His | Unexampled Journey. NEW'LANDS AND STRANGE PEOPLES From Bagamoyo to Kagehyi"in One Hondred and Three Days. UNVEILING THE AFRICAN MYSTERY, Three Days’ Desperate Fight- ing with the Watura. HEHU A HEHU’ One. Hundred and wenty-six Lives on the Mareh. HORRORS OF HUNGER AND THIRST. Usukuma Traversed and the Victoria | Niyanza Reached, DEATHS OF POCOCK AND BARKER, Mr. Stanley's First Letter from the Shores Viuzace ov Kacaurt, Disraicr or Ucmanst, Uscukuma, on tue Victoria Nirvan; of Victoria Niyanza, ~~ March 1, 1875, ‘The second part of the programme laid before me as ‘Commander of the Anglo-American Press Expedition to perform, ended successfully at noon on the 27th Febru- ary, 1875, The great lake first discovered by Captain Speke—the Victoria Niyanza—was sighted and reached by us on that day; and itis with the tecling of the | ‘most devout gratitude to Almighty God for preserving ‘us, amid manifold perils, that I write these lines, It seems an age since we departed from Mpwapwa Deagara, whence I despatched my last letter to you. ‘We have experienced so much, seen and suffered 0 much, that I have to recapitulate carefully in my mem- ery and turn to my notebook often to refresh my recollections of even the principal events of this most Jong, arduous and eventful march to the Victoria Niyanza, I promised you in my last letter that I would depart 88 600n as practicable from the old route to Unyan- yembe, which 1s now so well known, and would, like the patriarch Livingstone, strike out a new line to un- known lands, 1 did so, but in our adventurous journey north I imperilled the expedition and almost brought it to an untimely end, but which, happily for me, for you and for geographers, a, kindly Providence averted. VICISSITUDES OF TRAVEL, ‘On leaving Mpwapwa we edged northward across the Desert of the Marenga Mkali, or the Bilber Water, Jeaving the vain chief of Mbumi far to the south, and traversed Northern Ugogo with the usual success at- tending travellers in Southern Ugogo. The chiefs Practised the usual arts to fleece us of property and Diackmailed us at every opportunity. Now, we met chiefs more amiably disposed toward strangers to pay heavier tribute in other chiefs’ lands. Woe crossed broad and bleak plains, where food was scarce and cloth vanished fast, to enter hilly districts where food ‘was abundant, the people civil and the chiefs kind, ‘We traversed troublesome districts, where wars and rumors of wars were rife, the people treacherous ana hostile, to enter countries lying at the morcy of the ferocious Wahumba on the north, and the Wahebe to. the south. Thus good and evil fortune alternated dur- ing our travels through Ugogo—an epitome in brief of our after experiences, Furious rainy tempests ac- companiea us each day, and some days both naturo and man warred against us, while on other days both seemed combined to bless us, Under our adverse fates the expedition seemed to melt away; men died from fatigue and famine, many were left behind sick, while many, ngain, deserted. Promises of reward, kindness, threats, punishments, had no effect The expedition scemed doomed. MEROIO ENGLISHMEN, ‘The white men, though selected out of the ordinary | elass of Englishmen, did their work bravely—nay, I | other sufforers, I halted in Suna four days; but’ it was | jad crushed his nose and a spear bad severely wounded | may say heroically. Though suffering from fever and dysentery, insulted by natives, marching under the heat and equatorial rainstorms, they at all times Proved themselves of noble, manful natures, stout Dearted, brave men, and—better than all—trae Chris- tians. Unrepining they bore their hard fate and ‘worse fare; resignedly they endured their arduous troubles, cheerfully performed their allotted duties, and at al) times commended themselves to my good opinion. ‘The western frontier of Ugogo was reached on the Yast day of 1874. We rested two days, and thence struck direct north, along an almost lovel plain, which Pome said extended as far as Niyanza, Wo found by questioning the natives that we wore also travelling along the western extremity of Whunba, which wo ‘were glad-to hear, as we fondly boped that our march ‘Wo!d be bess molested. ‘wo daye’ march north brought us to the confines of Weandavs, a country famous for elephants; but here our route: inclined northwest, and we entered Ukimbn, or Uyanaigat its northeastern extremity. , PAVTELESS GUIDES, ‘We hed @ired guides in Ugogo w take us.as far Aramba, vuteat Mubalala, in Ukimbu, they deserted, Frosh guidestwere engaged at Muhalala, who took us ono days march farther northwest, but might they also doserted, and in the morning wo were left on the edge of a wide wilderness with- @ut a guide, On the roads the previous day the guides had ynformed us that three days’ march would Dring us to Urimi, and relying on the tenth of the re- port I had purchased two days’ provisiongyso that this second desertion did not much disconcert as nor raico any suepicion, though tt clicited many unpSeasant re- " marks about the treachery of the Wagogo. We there. fore continued our march, but on the morningyof the | «second day the narrow, ill-defined track which we had | oliowed became jost im a labyrinth of dlephant.and Fhinoceros traila. The best mon wore despatched jn all directions to seek out the lost road, but they wero all | Unsuccessful, and we had noresource left but the com- paca, The day brought us into a dense jungle of acaciag at and, by-various detowrs, taking advantage of every ‘slight opening the jungle afforded, which naturally Jongthened our journey and protracted our stay in the wildernet On the evening of the, third day the firdt death in the wilderness occurred, HUNGER AND ‘cuTRST, ‘The fourth Gay’s march lasted nearty the whole ‘day, though we made but fourtecm miles, and was threefold more arduous than that offtne preceding day. Not a drop of water was discovered during the march, and the weaker people, laboing under their loads, hunger and thirst, lagged bebind the vanguard many miles, which caused the rear guard, under two of the white men, much suffermg. As the rear guard ad- vanced they shouldered the loads of the weaker men, and,-endeayored to encourage them resume the march, Some of were enabled tofreach the camp, where their neces- sities were relieved by medicine and restoratives. But five men strayed from the path which the passing ex- pedition had made, and were never seen alive again. Scouts sentout to explore the woods found one dead abouta mile from our road; the others must have hopelessly wandered on until they also fell down and died. The fifth @ay brought us to a small village, lately erected, called Uveriveri, the population of which con- sisted of four men, their wives and little ones, These people had nota grain of food to spare. Most of the to these men men of owr expedition were unable to move for hun- | ger and fatigue. In this dire extremity I ordered a halt and selected twenty of the strongest mon to proceed to Suna, twenty-nine miles northwest from Uveriveri, to purchase food. In. the interval I explored the woods in search of game, but the search was fruit- less, though one of my men discovered a tion’s den and brought me two young lions, which I killed and skinned. Returning to camp from my fruitless hunt I was so | struck with the pinched faces of my poor people that I could have wept heartily could I have done so without exciting fear of our fate in their minds, but I resolved to do something toward relieving the pressing needs of flerce hunger. MAKING GRERL IN A TRUNK, To effect this a sheet iron trunk was emptied of its contents, and being filled'with water, was placed on the fire, Ithen broke open our medical stores and took | five pounds of Scotch oatmeal and three tins of | fevalenta arabica, with which I made gruel to feed over 220 men. Oh, it was a rare sight to see these poor famine stricken people hasten to that Torquay dress trunk and assist me to cook that huge pot of gruel, to see them fan the fire toa flercer heat, and, with their gourds full of water, stand by to cool the foaming liquid when it threatened to overflow, and it was a still more rare sight to watch the pleasure steal over their faces as they drank the generous food. ‘The sick and weaker ones receiveda larger portion near my tent, and another tin of oatmeal was opened for their supper and breakfast, Buta long time must elapse before I shall have the courage to describe my feclings during the interval I waited for the return of my people from Suna with food, and fruitless would be the attempt to deseribe the anxiety with which I list- ened for the musketry announcing their success. TIMELY RELIEF, After forty-eight hoGiywaiting we heard the joyful sounds, which woke us all into new life and vigor. The food was most greedily seizea by the hungry peo- ple, and so animating was the report of the food pur- veyors that the soldiers, one and ail, clamored to be led away thatafternoon, Nowise loth myself t© march away from this fatal jonglo, 1 assented; but t*¥o more poor fellows breathed their last before we left camp. ‘We camped that night at the baso of a rocky hill, overlooking a broad plain, which, after the intense gloom and confined atmosphere of the jungle, was a great pleasure to us, and, next day, striking north along this plain, after a long march, under a fervid sun, of twenty miles, reached the district of Suna, in Urimi. A STRANGE PHOPLE. In Urimi, at Suna, we discovered a people remarkable for their manly beauty, noble proportions an@ naked- ness, Neither man nor boy had either cloth or skins to cover his nudity; the women bearing children only Ddoasted of goat skfas, With all their physical beauty and fine proportions they were the most suspicious people we had yetseen. It required great tact and Patience to induce them to part with food for our cloth and beads. They owned no chief, but respected the injunctions of their elders, with whom { treated for permission to pass through their land. The permis sion was reluctantly given, and food was begrudgingly sold, but we bore with this silent hostility patiently, and I took great care that no overt act on the part of the expedition should change this suspicion into hatred, more poor fellows died here, and the sick list num- bered thirty. Here also Edward Pocock fell seriously ill of typhoid fever, For his sake, as well as for the too evident that the longer wo stayed in their country the natives regarded us with less favor, and it was in. gumbent on us to move, though mych against my in- clination, There were many grave reasons why wo should have halted several days longer, for Edward Po- cock was daily getting worse and the sick list in- creased alarmingly; dysentery, diarrhea, chest diseases, fsore feet, tasked my medical knowledge to the utmost; but pradence forbade it. The rear- guard and captains of the expedition were therefore compelled to do the work of carriers, and every sohlior for the time being was converted into a pagaci, or porter. Yocock was put into a hammock, the sick and weakly ‘were encouraged to do their utmost to move on with the expedition to more auspicious lands, where tho na- tives wero less suspicious, where food was more abun- dant, and where cattle were numerous Imbued with this hope, the expedition resumed its march across the clear, open and well. cultivated country of Urimi, POCOCK BREATHRS M18 LAST, We reached Chiwyu about ten o'clock, after a short march, and here the young Englishman Edward Pocock breathed his last, to the great grief of us all. According to two rated pedo- march from the sea, and had reached the base young man died. We buried hinvat night, anda cross Chiwyu. The farther we travelled north we became still more assured that we had arrived in the dewy land whence the extreme southern springs, rivulets and streams discharge their waters into the Nile. From a bigh ridge overlooking a vast extent of country the story of their course was plainly written in the deep depressions and hollows trending northward and porthwestward, and as we noted theso signs of the incipient Nile we cherished the darling hope that before long we should gaze with gladdened eyes on the mighty reservoir which collected these waters which parled aod rippled | at our feet, into its broad bosom, to discharge them in one vast body into the White Nile, From Chiwyu we journeyed two days through Urim; to Mangara, where Kaif Halleck—the carrier of Kirk's letter bag to Livingstone, whom I compelled to accom- pany me to Ujiji in 1871—was brutally murdered. He had been suffering from asthma, and I had permitted him to follow the expedition slowly, the rear goard being all employed as carriers because of the heavy sick list, when he was waylaid by the natives.and hacked to pieces, This was tho first overt act of hostility on the Our people were so worn out with fatigue that six | meters we bad finished the 400th mile of our | of the watershed whence the trickling streams and in- | fant waters begin to flow Nileward, when this noble | part of the Warimd Waablo to fix the crime on any | were not slow to continue fighting if the natiy and aslioabin Uasough whieh we iad ligeall 4 npshigulig iia we Tapa OUT _OMagE Aad oie | dakgconingd 10 Web GEA 1 MAGIA AAT Oa ysta, and was situated in a broad and populous valley, Gntaining, probably, some 2,000 or 9,000 .souls. Here We discovered the river which recetyed all the streams that flowed betwoen Vinyata and Chiwyu. It is-alled here Leewumbu, and its flow Trom this valley was west, Even in the dry season it is a consideratie | Stream, some twenty feet in with and about two fect deep, but in the rainy season it becomes & deep and formidable river, The natives received us celdly, but as we were but two | days’ journey from Iramba I redoubled my exertions to | conciliate the surly suspicious people, and that evening | my efforts seemed crowned with success, for they | brought milk, eggs and chickens to me for sale, for | which I partea freely with cloth, The fame of my liberality reached the ears of the great man of the valley, the magic doctor, who, in the absence of a rec- ognized king, is treated with the deference and respect due to royalty by the natives, This important person- age brought me a fat ox on the second day of my ar- rival at Vinyata, and in exchange received double its value m cloth and beads, anda rich present was be- stowed upon his brother and his son, The great man begged for the heart of the slaughtered ox, which was freely given him, and other requests were likewise honored by prompt gifts. We had been compelled to take advantage of the fine and I noticed, though without misgiving, that the na- tives eyed them greedily. The morning of the third some more beads to make brotherhood with him, To this, after some slight show of reluctance to give too much, I assented, and he departed apparently pleased, THE WAR ORY OP THE WATURU. Half an hour afterward the war cry of the Waturu was heard resounding through each of the 200 villages of the valley of the Leewumbu. The war cry was | similar to that of the Wagogo, and phonetically it | drawn out in a prolonged ery, thrilling and loud, As we had heard the Wagogo sound the war notes upon | every slight apparition of strangers we imagined that the warriors of Itura were summoned to contend me me other malcontent neighbors, and, nothing dis- by it, we pursued our various avocations, like ul beings, fresh from our new brotherhood with wlers of turn. Some of our men were gone out w ’ 4 neighboring pool to draw water for > vespective messes, others were gone to ood, others were about starting to pur- od, when suddenly we saw the outskirts of the _ uarkened by about 100 natives in full war costume, *-re of the bustard, the eagle and the kite waved ., their heads, or the mane of the zebra and the giraffe encircled their brows; their left hands held their bows and arrows, while their right bore their spears, This hostile presence naturally alarmed us, for what had we done to oceasion disturbance or war? Remem- | bering the pacific bearing of Livingstone when he and I were menaced by the cannibal Wabembe, I gave or- ders that none should leave camp until we should ascertain what this warlike appearance meant, and that none should, by any demonstration, provoke the na- tives, While we waited to see what the Waturu in- tended to do, their numbers increased tenfold, andgevery bush and treo hid a warrior, THR CAMP SURROUNDED, Our camp was situated on the edge of a broad wil- derness, which extended westward many days’ march; but to the north, cast and south, nothing was seen but villages and cultivated ground, which, with the careless mode of agriculture in vogue among savages, con- tained acres of dwarf shrubbery; but I doubt whether thronghout this valley a better locality for a camp could have been selected than the one we had chosen. Fifty or sixty yards around us was open ground, so that we had the advantage of light to prevent the ap- proach of anenemy unseen. A slight fence of bush served to screen our numbers from those without the camp, but, having had no occasion to suspect hostilities, it was but ill adapted to shield us from attack. When the Waturu were so numerous in our vicinity that it was no longer doubtful that they were summoned to fight us, Idespatehed a young man who knew their language to ascertain their intention, As he advanced toward them six or seven warriors drew near to talk with him, When he returned he informed us that one ofourmen had stolen some milk and butter froma small village and that we must pay for it in cloth, The messenger was sent back to tell them that white men did not come to their country to rob or quarrel; that they had but to name the price of what was stolen to be paid at once, and that not one grain of corn or milletseed should be ap- propriated by us wrongfully. Upon this the principal warriors drow nearar, until we could hear their voices plainly, though we did not understand the nature of the conversation. Tho messenger informed us thatthe elders demanded four yards of sheeting, which was about six times the value of the stolen articles; but atsuch a time tt was useless to haggle over such a demand, and the cloth was paid. When it was given to them the elders said they were satisfied, and withdrew, HOSTILITIES BEGUN, But it was evident that though the elders were satisfled the warriors were not, as they could be seen hurrying by scores from all parts of the valley and gesticulating violently in crowds, Still wo waited patiently, hoping that if the elders and principal warriors wero really amicably disposed toward us, their voices would prevail, and that they would be able. to assuage the wild passions which now scemed to animate the others. As we watched them | wo noted that about 200 detached themselves from the gesticulating crowds east of the camp and were hurry- | ing to the thick bush west of us, Soon afterward one | of my men returned from that direction bleeding pro- fasely from the foco and arm, and reported that he | and a youth named Sulieman were out collecting fire- wood when they were attacked by a large crowd of | savages, who were hidden in the bush. A knobstick | him in the arm, but he had managed to escape, while | Sutieman was killed, a dozen spears having been | plunged into his back. This report and the appearance of the blecd- ing youth so excited the soldiers of the ex- | pedition that they were only with the utmost | dificnity restrained from beginning a battle | atonce, Even yet I hoped that war might be pre- vented by a little diplomacy, winle I did not forget to | open the ammunition boxes and prepare for the worst. | But much was to be done, The enclosure of the camp required to be butlt up, and something of a fortifica- tion was needed to repel the attack of such a large | force, While we wore thas preparing without osten- tation to defend ourselves from what I conceived to bo an imminent attack, the Waturu, now a declared enemy, alvanced upon the camp, and a shower of ar- | rows fell all around us. ness, were at once ordered to deploy in front of the camp, fifty yards of, and tho Waugnana, or | freemen of Zanzibar, obedient to the command, | rushed out of the vamp, and the battle commenced, | PORTIFYING THE CAMP, Immediately after these sixty men, with axes, were ordered to cut bushes and raise @ high fence of thorn around the camp, while twenty more were ordered to raise lofty platforms like towers within, for sharpshoot- ers, We busied ourselves in bringing the sections of the Lady Alice to make a central camp for a last re. Evory one worked with a will, and while the firing of | the enemy was withdrawing from the attack, we were left to work unmolested, When the camp was prepared | Tordered the bugler to sound the retreat, in ordor that tho savages might have time to consider whether it was politic for them to renew the fight. | When the skirmishers returned they announced that fitteon of the enemy wero killed, while a great many | more were wounded and borne off by their friends, They had all distinguished themselves—even “Bull,” the British bulldog, had seized one of the Watara by | the leg and had given him a taste of the power of the English canines of his breed before the poor savage was mercifully despatched by a Snider bullet, | Wo rested that day from further trouble, and the | next morning we waited events until nine o’clock, when | the enemy appeared in greater force than over, having summoned their neighbors all about them to assistthem | (I felt assured now) iy our ruin. PIGHTING RENEWED, But, though we were slow to war upon people whom I thought might be made friends the previous di were sun which shone this day to dry tho bales and goods, | day the magic doctor returned again to camp to beg for | might be spelt “Hehu, A Hebu,” the latter syllables | fst some marauders like the warlike Mirambo or | Sixty soldiers, held in readi- | the skirmishers, growing more distant, announced that | | to demonstrate her laws and career, | av if she said, “Lo and behold this broad basin of to the Command they sallied out of the camp and began the second day’s fight. ‘They were soon vigorously engaged with the enemy, who fled fast and furious before them to an open plain on the ,banks of the Leewumbu. The detachment under Farjalla Christle became too excited, and because the enemy ran, imagined that they had but to show themselves to cause the natives to fly; but once on the plain—-having drawn them away isolated miles from any succor—they turned upon them and slaughtered the detachment to a man, except the messenger, who had been detailed to accompany the detachment to report success oF failure, Thad taken the precaution to send one swift-footed man to accompany each detachment for this purpose. This messenger came from Farjalla to procure assistance, which was at once despatched, though too late to aid the unfortunate men, but not too late to save the #ec- ond detachment from a like fate, as the victorious enemy, after slaughtering the first detachment, had turned upon the second with the evident inten- | tion to cut the entire force opposed to | them in detail, When the support arrived they found the second detachment all but lost. Two soldiers were killed, The captain, Ferahan, had a deep spear wound in his side. The others were hemmed in on all sides. A volley was poured into the rear of the astonished enemy, andthe de- tachment was saved. With their combined forces our people poured a second volley, and continued their extremity of the valley, Meanwhile, smoke was seen issuing from the south and south- east, informing us that the third and -fourth detachments wero pursuing their way victoriously, and soon.a score or more villages were en- wrapped in dense volumes of smoke. Even at a dis- tance of eight miles we beheld burning villages, and shortly after fired settlements to the north and east announced our victory:on all sides, ‘Toward evening the soldiers returned, bringing cattle and an abundance of grain to the camp; but when the rouster-roll was called I found I had Jost twenty-one men, who had been killed, while thirty-five deaths of the enemy were reported. THE THIRD DAY’S BATTLE. ‘The third day we began the battle with sixty good | treme Jength of the valley and burn what had been left village to the northeast, which, after a slight resistance, they entered, loaded themselves with grain and set on fire, Long before noon it was clearly seen that the savages had had enough of war and were demoralized, and our | people returned through the now silent and blackened valley without molestation, Justbefore daybreak on the fourth day we left our camp and continued our journey northwest, with people of Ituru to ponder on the harsh fate they haddrawn on themselves by their greed, treachery and wanton murder, and attack on peaceful stran- gers. We are stilla formidable force, strong m numbers, guns and property, though, for an expedition des- tined to explore so many thousands of miles of new countries, we had suffered severely, I had left the coast with over 300 men; but when I numbered the expedition at Mgongo Tembo, in Iramba, which we reached three days after departing from the scene | of our war, I found that I had but 194 men left, Thus) | in less than three months, I haa lost by dysentery, famine, heart disease, desertion and war, over 125 men natives of Africa and one European. IRREPARABLE LOSSES. Thave not time—for my work is but beginnihg—to relate a tithe of our adventures, or how we suffered. You can bettor imagine our perils, our novel and strange fortunes, if you reflect on the loss of 126 men | out of such an-expedition. Such a loss even in astrong regiment would be deemed almost a calamity. What | name will you give such a loss when you cannot re- cruit your numbers, where every man that dies is a loss thaf.cannot be repaired; when your work, which is to last years, is but beginning; where each morning you say to yourself, “This day may be your last ?”” On entering Iramba we found that the natives called out against all strangers, “Mirambo and his robbers | arecoming.” But a vast amount of patience and suave language saved us from the doom that threatens this now famous chieftain. Despite, however, | all medicines and magic arts that have been | made and practised as yet, Mirambo lives. He | seems to make war upon all mankind in this portion of | the African interior, and appears to be possessed of | ubiquitous powers, We heard of him advancing upon | the natives in Northern Ugogo, Ukimbu was terrog. stricken at his name, the people at Unyanyembe were still Gghting him, and here in Iramba he has been met and fought, and is again daily expected. As we journeyed on through Iramba and entered Usukuma his fame increased, for we were now drawing near some of the scenes of his exploits, When we ap- proached the Victoria Niyavza he was actually fighting, but a day’s march from us, with the people of Usanda and Masari, and a score of times we came near being plunged into wars because the natives mistook our | Expedition for Mirambo’s force; but our color always saved us before we became actually engaged in conflict, VARYING FORTUNES. Various wore our fortunes in our travels between Mgongo Tembo, in Iramba, and the Niyanza, We trav- ersed the whole length of Usukuma, through the dis- | tricts of Mombiti, Usiha, Mondo, Sengerema and Marya, and, passing through Usmaow, re-entered Usukuma by | Uchambi, and arrived at tho lake after a march of 720 miles, | TovocraPny, As faras Western Ugogo! may pass over without attempting to describe the country, as readers may ob- ingstone.”” ‘Thence north isa new country to all, and | a brief description of it may be interesting to students of African geography, North ot Mizanza a level plain extends as far as the frontier of Usandawi, a distance of thirty-flve miles (English). At Mukondoku the altitude, as mdicated by | two first rate ancroids, was 2,800 feet, At Mtiwi, | twenty miles north, the altitude was 2,825 feet, Di- | verging west and northwest, we ascend the slope of a | lengthy mountain wall, apparently, but which, upon | armving at the summit wo ascertain to be a wide march almost unopposed to the northern and eastern | | men, who received instructions to proceed to the ex- | | the previous day. These camo to a strong and large 4 provisions sufficient to last us six days, leaving the | | dancing waters I long to launch the Lady Alice and ain a detailed account of itfrom ‘How I Found Live | hills, The descent to the lake is so gradual that I ex- | but intend doing so before starting on the work of ex- soil and lastly through the rock itself, which you may | as yours, Both Frank and Ted proved themselves see if you but walk to the bottom of that basin. You | will there behold a channel worn through the solid | rock some fitty feet in depth; and as you look on that you will have an idea of the power and force of tropical rains. It is through that channel that the soil robbed from these rocks has been carried away towards the Niyanza to fill its depths and jn time make dry land of it. Now, you may ask how came these once solid | rocks, which are now but skeletons of hills and stony | heaps, to be thus split into so many fragments? Have you never seen the effect of water thrown upon lime? The solid rocks have been broken and peeled in an almost similar manner. The tropic sun heated the sur- | face of these rocks to an intense heat, and the cold rain | falling upon the heated surface caused them to split and peal as you now see them.” THE YREDERS OP THE NIYANZA. This is really the geological history of this country simply told. Ridge after ridge, basin after basin, from ‘Western Ugogo to the Niyanza, tells the same tale; but it js not until we enter Central Urimi that we begin to | marvel at the violence of the process by which Nature has transformed the face of the land. For here the | perennial springs and rivulets begin to unite and form | rivers, after collecting and absorbing the moisture from | the watershed; and these rivers, though but gentle streams during the dry season, become formidable | during the rains, It isin Central Urimi that the Nile first begins to levy tribute upon Equatorial Africa, and | if you look upon the map and draw a line east from the | latitude of Ujiji to longitude thirty-five degrees you will strike upon the sources of the Leewumbu, which is the extreme southern feeder of the Victoria N’yanza, In Iramba, between Mgongo Tembo and Mombiti we came upon what must have been in former times an arm of the Victoria Niyanzi. It is called the Lumath- berri Plain, after a river of that name, and is about forty miles in width. Its altitude is 3,775 feet above the sea and but a few foet above the Victoria Niyanza, We were fortunate in crossing the broad, shallow stream in the dry season, for during the masika, or rainy season, the pl is converted into a wide lake, ‘The Leewumbu River, after a course of 170 miles, be- comes known in Usukuma as the Monangah River, After another run of 100 miles it is converted into | Shimeeyu, under which name it enters the Victoria | east of this port of Kagehyi. Roughly the Shimeeyu may be said to have a length of 350 miles. USUKUMA ENTERED, After penetrating the forest and jungle west of the | Lumanberri we enter Usukuma—a country thickly | peopled and rich in cattle, It is a series of rolling | plains, with here and there, far apart, a chain of jagged pect to find upon sounding it, as I intend to do, that, though it covers « vast area, it is very shallow, Now, after our long journey, the Expedition is halted a hundred yards from tho lake, and as I look upon its venture out to explore its mysteries. Though on its shore, I am as ignorant of its configuration and extent as any man in England or America’ Ihave questioned | the natives of Uchambi closely upon the subject at issue, but’ no one can tell me positively whether the lake is one or more, 1 hear a multitude of strange names, but whether they aro of countries or lakes itis impossible to divine, their knowledge of it being very superficial, My impression, however, is that Speke, in his bold sketch and imagined outline, is nearer the truth than Livingston, who re- ported of it upon hearsay ata great distance from its | shores; but as soon asIcan finish my letters to you and my friends the sections of the Lady Alice will be screwed together, and the first English boat that ever sailed on the African lakes shall venture upon her mis- sion of thoroughly exploring every nook and cranny of the sbores of the Victoria, It is with great pride and | pleasure I think of our success in conveying | such a large boat safely through the hunareds of miles of jungle which we traversed, and just now I feel as though the entire | wealth of the universe could not bribe me to turn back from my work. Indeed, it is with the utmost impa- tience that I think of the task of writing my letters be- fore starting upon the more pleasant work of explor- ing, bat I remember the precept, “Duty before pleas” ure,’? STRANGB BALES, Thear of strange tales about the countries on the shores of this lake, which make me still more eager to start: | One man reports a country peopled with dwarfs, another with giants, and another is said to possess a breed of | such large dogs that even my mastiffs are said to have | been small compared to “them, All these may be idle | romance, and} lay no stress on anything reported to | me, as 1 hope to be enabled to see with my own eyes all the wonders of these unknown countries. It is unfortunate that I have not Speke’s book with me; but a map of Central Africa which I have with mo contains the statement, in brackets, that the Victoria Niyanza has an altitude of only 3,308 fect above the ocean. If this statement is on Speke’s authority, either he or Tam wrong, for my two aneroids, almost fresh from England, make it much higher. One ranges from 3,560 to 3,650 fect; the other from 3,575 to 8,675 feet. I have not boiled my thermometers yet, ploring the lake. 1 have no reason to suspect that the | aneroids are at fault, a8 they are both first class, and | have been carefully carried with the chronometers. With regard to Speke’s position of Muanza, I incline to think that he is right, but as I have not visited | Muanza I cannot tell. The natives point it out west- ward of Kagehyi and but a short distance off. The posi- tion of the port of Kagehyi is south latitude 2 deg, 31 min,, east longitude 83 deg. 13 min. MUSTERING THB EXPEDITION, | plateau, covered with forest. Thi, plateau has an alti- | | tude of 3,800 feet at its eastern extremity; but as it ex- | tends westward it rises to a height of 4,500 fect. It | embraces all Uyanzi, Unyanyembe, Usukuma, Urimi | and Irambo—in short, all that part of Central Africa | lying between the valley of the Ruiiji south andthe | Victoria Niyanza north, and the mean altitude of this broad upland cannot exceed 4,500 feet, From Mizanza to the Niyanza is a distance of nearly 300 geographical miles, yet at no part of this long journey did the ane- | roids indicate a higher altitude than 5,100 feet above the sea, As far as Urimi, from the eastern edge of the pla teau, the land is covered with a dense jungle of acacias, | which, by tts density, strangles all other species of veg- etation, Here and there, only in the cleft of arock, a giant euphorbia may be seen, sole lord of its Sterile do- main, mould mixed largely with sand and detritus of the bare rocks, which crown each knoll and ridge, and which | testify too plainly to the violence of the periodical cut deep into a tree marks his last resting place at | sistance, and otherwise strengthening the defences. | rains, 10US NATURAL RELICS. Tn the basin of Matongo, in Southern Urimi. wo were | instracted by tho ruins of hills and ridges, re§jes of a The soil is shallow, and consists of vegetable | we have traversoa. The letters containing the account | loftier upland, of what has boon effected by nature in | the course of long ages, No learned geological savant need ever expound to the traveller who views these rocky rilins the geological history of this country, | From a distance we viewed the glistening, naked and riven rocks as a singular scone; but when we stood among them, and noted the appearance of the rocky fragments of granite, gneiss and porphyry, peeled, as it wore, rind after rind, or loaf after leaf, like an arti. | choke, until the rock was wasted away, it seemed as if | Dame Nature had left these relics, these hilly skeletons, It seemed to mo Matongo, with its teeming village ana herds of cattle and fleldsgof corn, surrounded by these bare rocks—in primeval time this and was covered with water, it was the bed ofa vast sea The waters were dried, leaving a wile expanse of level land, upon which f caused heavy rains to fall five months out of each year during all the ages) that ha’ elapsed since first the hot sunshine feil upon the soil | halts. As I vaccinated every member of the expedition | | Ateight A. M.,an hour after he lay down, he was | leaving Ugogo it was impozsible to meet one, or to , | point observed by another instrument by a different I mustered the men of the expedition yesterday and | ascertained it to consist of three white men and 166. Wanguane soldiers and carriers, twenty-eight having died since leaving Ituru thirty days ago. Over one-half | of our force has thus been lost by desertion and deaths, | This is terrible, but I hove that their long rest here will | revive the weak and strengthen the strong. The dread- | ful scourge of the expedition has been dysentery and I can boast of but few men cured of it by medicine, though it was freely @ven, as we were possessed of abundance | of medical stores, A great drawback to their cure has | been the necessity of moving on, whereas a few days’ | rest, ina country blessed with good water and food, wouid have restored many of them to health; bat good | water and good food could not be procured anywhere together except here. The Arabs would have taken | nine months or a year to march this long distance, | while we have performed it in only 103 days, including on the coast, 1 am happy to say that not one tell a victim to smallpox. NOW THE LETTER WAS SENT, I leave this letter in the hands of Sungoro, a Msawabili trader, who resides here, in the hope that he will be enabled shortly vo send it to Unyanyembe, as | he frequently sends caravans there with ivory; but a copy of it I shall take with me to Uganda, and de- | liver it to Mtesa, the King, to be conveyed. if possible, | to Colonel Gordon. Since leaving Mpwapwa I havo not met one caravan bound for Zanzibar; and after despatch couriers through such dangerous countries as | of our explorations of the Victoria Niyanza and our | subsequent march to the Albert Niyanza I hope to be able to deliver personally into the hands of Colonel Gordon, and in this hope 1 remain, yours obediently, | HENRY M, STANLEY, P. 8.—You may have observed that I have differed | from Captain Speke in spelling Nyanza, as he calls it I have taken the liberty of writing it as it is actually pronounced by both Arabs and natives, Ni-yanza or Nee- yanza, March 5,—The boiling point observed by one f Negretti & Zambra’s apparatus this day | was 205 degrees 6 minutes; temperature of | air, 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The — boiling degrees 5 minutes; temperature of air, 81 degrees hrenheit. The barometer at the same time indicated 26.90 inches. The mean of the baromet- | rical observations at Zanzibar was 30,048. The mean of the barometrical observations during seven days’ resi- dence here has been 26.1 Ms. maker was 205 sterling men, noble and brave hearts and faith- | ful servants. Ted had endeared himself to the members of the expedition by his amiable naturo, his cheerfulness, and by various qualifications which brought him into high favor with the native soldiers of this force. Before daybreak we were aecusiomed to hear the cheery notes of his bugle, which woke. us to afresh day’s labors; at night, around the camp, fires, we were charmed with his sweet, simple songs, of which he had an inexhaustible répertoire, When tired also with marching it was his task to announce to the fatigued people the arrival of the vam- guard at camp, so that he had become quite a treasure to us all; and I must say that I have never | known men who could bear what your sons have born on this expedition so patiently aud uncomplainingly. B never heard one grumble either from Frank or Ted5 have never heard them utter an iliberal remark, or express any wish that the expedition had never sot foot in Africa, as many men would have done in their situation; so that you may well imagine that, 1f the loss | of one of your sons causes griof to your paternal heart, it has been no less a grief to us, as wo were all, as it were, one family, surrounded as we are by so much that is dark and forbidding. THE STORY OF WIS DEATH. On arriving at Suna, in Urini, Ted came to me, after avery long march, complaining of pain in his limba and loins. I did not think it was serious at all, nor anything uncommon after walking twenty miles, buti told him to go and lie down, that he would be better om the mofrow, as it was very probably fatigue, The next morning 1 visited him and he again complained of pains in the knees and back, at which I ascribed it to rheumatism aud treated him accordingly. The third day he complatned of pain in the chest, difficulty of breathing and sleeplessness, by which I perceived that he was suffering from some other ma- lady than rheumatism, but what it could be I could not divine, He was a little feverish, so I gave him a mus- tard plaster and some aperient medicine, Toward! night he began to wander in his head, and on examin- ing his tongue I found it almost black, and coated with dark gray far, At these symptoms I thought that he had a severe attack of remittent fover, from which I suffered in Ujiji in 1871, and, therefore, I watched for an opportunity to ad- minister quinine—that is, when the fever would abate alittle, But on the fourth day, the pationt still wand- ering in hismind, I suggested to Frank, that he should! sponge him with cold water, and change his clothing,| during which operation I noticed that the chest of thel patient was covered with spots like pimples or small+ pox pustules, which perplexed me greatly. H could not have caught the smallpox, ‘and wh: the disease was 1 could not imagine; but, turn ning to my medical books, I saw that your son was suf fering from typhoid, the description of which was toot clear to be longer mistaken, and both Frank and I de-! voted our attention to him, He was nourished with{ arrowroot and brandy, and everything that was in oug power to do was dono; but it was very evident that the case was serious, though I hoped that his constitution’ would brave it out. On the fifth day we were compelled to resume our journey, after a rest of four days. Ted was put in a hammock and carried on the shoulders of four inen, At ten o’clock on the 17 of January we halted at Chiwyn, and the minute that he was laid down in the camp he breathed his last. Our companton was dead. . THUR BODY LAID TO REST. We buried him that night under a tree, on which hit brother Frank had cut a deep cross, and read the beau~ tifal service of the Church of England over him as wat Jaid the poor wornout body in its final resting place. Peace be to his ashes! Poor Ted doserved a better fate than dying in Africa, but it was impossible that he could have died easier. I wish that my eud may be as peaceful and painless as his. He was saved the stormy scenes we went through — shortly, after in our war with the Watura; and who knows how much he has been saved from? But I know that he would have rejoicea to be with us at this hour of our triumph, gazing on the laughing waters of tho vast fountain of old Nile, None ofus would have been more elated at the prospect! before us than he, for he was a true sailor and loved tha sight of water, Yet again I say, peace be to his ashes; be ponsoled, for Frank still lives, and from present ap pearance is likely to come home to you with honor and) glory such as he and you may well be proud of. Believe me, dear Sir, with true sincerity, your well wisher, HENRY M. STANLEY. LETTER TO MRS. BARKER. VILLAGE or Kacenit, District or Ucnannt, Usuxima, Central Africa, May 15, 1875, Mrs. CHaRLotre BARKER :— Deak Mus. Barker—I grieve to have to write to you ! on such a sad topic as this letter must contain. Iwould) that some one else lad undertaken the task or that Francis Pocock, your son’s companion, had fulfilled be- fore his departure from here what I had expressly or~ | dered him to do. But that I wish to save you from a too sudden blow TY would have delayed writing until Pocock had writtem his report to me of the manner how or when of your poor’son’s last hours, for you must know that your sony, Frederick Barker, is gone to his eternal rest. 1 was absumt on an exploring expedition of Lake Victoria, having left Francis Pocock and Frederick Barker in charge of my camp. Altogether 1 was ab- sent fifty-eight days. When I returned, hoping that J would fina that all had gone well, I was strnck with the grievous uews that your son had died twelve days before of an intermittent fever, HOW BARKER DIED. What little I have been able to learn of your son's death amounts to this:—On April 22 he went out to the lake witn Pocock to shoot hippopotami, and all day enjoyed himself, On tho morning of thé 23d he went out for a little walk, had his tea and some pancakes, washed himself, and then suddenly said he felt ill and lay down in bed. He called for a hot stone to be applied to his feet; brandy was given him, blanketg were heaped on him; but he felt such cold in his exe tremities that nothing availed to restore the heatin his body, His blood seems to have become congealed, dead. Such is what I lave been able to glean from Pocock of the manner of his death, but by our next letter-carrier Pocock shall sendyyou a complete account, His clothes and effects shall bo sold at auction in this camp, and whatever they produce, with such money as may be due to him for wages, shall be rendered to you, His papers, photos and Testathont I shall keep until E have an opportunity to send them to you. BARKER'S GOOD QUALITIES, Dear Mrs, Barker, you may believe me as you may, but in Fred Barker I have lost one of as much value tq me as ho was dear to yoo. He was such aclover, qnicl intelligent servant that had he lived to reach home, an Thad lived to seo him there, his future need nevot have been a source of anxiety to him. Indeed, there it no doubt he before long would have ranked high in th estimation of worthy men, and become a most uset member of intelligent society, Gentlemanlinessy honesty and politeness were his special characters istics, 1 had such confidence in him that 1 had placed him in charge of ali my stores, and, during my absen: on the lake, appotnted him half share in the com: of 166 soldiers. From the coast to this lake, a distance of 720. milog he trudged it afoot like a hero, When sick, of coursé he rode one of our animals, Whatever I told him bo came so impressed on his memory that I need never repeat the order or complata of its neglect, Whatever } advised him to do became with him a law, what ever I suggested to him immediately was obeyed, ag though it were a command, He was arare young I mottlesome, manly, and thoroughly English =) good qualities, It is then to be grieved that you hay lost such a hopeful son, I such a true servant, and hig country such a promising character, I sympathiag THE DEAD WHITE MEN, LETTER TO POCOCK'S FATHER, Kacenyt, on tie Vierorta, Nivanaa, March 4, 1875. Dear Sir—A most unpleasant, because gad, task do. Wayne saan mae loge | volves won mp JOR 1 YAye WAeIAipLarhunR bo Dae FO ie with you deeply—not I alone, we all of us in this cam} for we bave lost one such that his place cannot filled, God's comfort bo with you in this distress, and believg ma yours faithfully, . "HENRY M. STANLEY, |,