The New York Herald Newspaper, July 22, 1873, Page 3

WASSEEDDIN MR. EDMUND YATES’ LAST VIEW. Mr. George W. Hosmer’s Survey from His American Tripod. ‘A Glance Through the Diplomatic Teles- cope That Belongs to Mr. Grenville Murray. Three Minutes of the Persian Monarch During a Transit of 300 Yards. President’ MacMahon Says “Bon- jour” to the Oriental Guest. RMrrival of the Blazing Oriental at the Aro de Triomphe. STHE-GRAND AGONY OVER IN TEN MINUTES, "The Scene Around the Bat- tered Arch. THE SHAWS AMPHITHEATRE, Pre Golden ‘Throne for the Shah and the Golden Chairs for the Municipality, Notwithstanding the Crowd, “Sure of a Chair for a Cent.” FRENCHMEN AT SHOWS The Philosopher Who Went to Look for a Man with a:Cap On and Found a Man with a Hat On.” AL WY A PLUS DE PREVOYANCE, Whe Diplomatic Significance of the Shah’s Visit, if It Has Any. - COURT LIFE..AT . TEHERAN. How the Shah Can'Tie a Man with His Face toa Don- key’s Tail. (THE PERSIAN.. BASTINADO. Diplomatic History and Dark Ways in Persia. ° LOOK AT MY FEET.” The Court of Teheran and All the Last Puns : on the Sheh. ; iTHE STORY BY MR. EDMUND YATES. Paris, July 6, 1873, , When, infulfiment of the first commission en- ‘trusted to me by the proprietor of the Henaxp, I vendeavored in March last to describe the ceremo- ies attendant upon the second inauguration of eral Grant as President of the American Re- ‘public, and ventured to draw a comparison not (@00 favorable to the Washington display, between fenat and other somewhat similar scenes whreh 1 ‘had witnessed, I incurred to my sorrow a great ‘deal of JOURNALISTIC INDIGNATION. To some of my pen bretbren I was an object of ‘Wrath, to others of pity, to ethers of contempt. (The finger of scorn was pointed at me as the syco- (phantic worshipper of an effete and played out monarchical system ; the steel pen, dipped in vitriol, ‘denounced me as a kind of lecturing serpent which bhaa been warmed in the bosomof the Republic and had then stung my protector. I had no ides, 1 ‘Protest, of committing any such crime. I aimply recorded my impressions, prominent mong which, if I recollect rightly, was one—which in another sense had previously occurred to the late Mr. Sterme—that “they man- eged such things better in France.” But from what I have this day witnessed I am induced to ‘withdraw this proposition—Humanum est errare! Iwas wrong, and I wishat once to make the amende honorable. 1 doff my hat to the Wisconsin | War Whoop; I “crook the pregnant hinges of the iknee” to the Nevada Knowledge Box; 1 apologize to the Detroit Denouncer, and I entreat the Jones- ‘ville Argus to believe that Iam his very humble eervant. I was wrong, gentlemen, or, rather, as a dJavorite Cockney comedian was in the habit of say- ing, “things are no: as they used to was,” My belief, founded upon these two experiences, is, that ogt- ‘Ward ceremonial, show and glitter, pomp and pa- Fade are not merely incompatible with the stern simplicity of a republic, but impossible to be prop- erly performed therein. If itis thought neces- sary that they should be attempted, it is mach better to set about them with the rough- g@nd-ready heartiness which characterized the ‘Washington display rather than to aim at any elaboration resulting in such an entire asco as ‘We witnessed to-day. It will be more fitting how- ever toreserve these comments and conclusions for the end of this letter, and now to attempt to Place before you the scene out of the contempia- tion of which they arose. ‘The uncertainty which has characterised all the movements of the Shah since his arrival in Europe Jed me to believe that although his departure NEW ‘YORK ‘HERALD; TUESDAY, JULY 22 1873—TRIPLE SHEKT * trom Engiand had day, the 34, it would probably. be delayed until later in the week, It was said that he was most unwilling to quit London; that he had openly Binted a desire for ® further invitation; that altbougn the courtesy of his hosts was almost giving way uber the pressure of THE PERPETOAL ROUND OF DUTY which his entertainment necessitated, it was im- possible to get rid of him. He was like the gen- tleman who, when about {0 be hanged, a ‘Stille tat takin’ sre yet scetmed heath to depatt He was, like Don Basilio, the man with the por- tentous bat, in the opera ofthe “Barber of Seville,” who, long afcer it is thought that he has been el- bowed into the street, turns up again with his in- evitable ‘Buona sera/® it was ne use my waiting to come with him on stich @ chance as this. I had seen him st sea on the voyage from Ostend to Dover. I have never left off seeing him sinee. Who tied Dolabelia to te sword? Who tied me to this satrap with the biaek face and the bejewelled back? I would be Shabiess for a few hours at any Tate, and so, in advane@ofhim, I came to Paris by myself on Friday. ‘i PARIS WAS BLAZING HOT, the sky a pitilesssteet-Biue, the sun, reflected from the tall, white houses aud asphaite pavement, ren- dering it impossible toeee a yard in advance or to Move without fear of: gollapse. Nevertheless, the entire population of the United States and most of the imhabitants of New Jersey were to be met on the Boulevards, while the court-yarda of most of the hotels echoed with the bold British accent of the tourists imported by the en- terprising Cook, Usually at this time of year most of the regular’Parisians are away, bath- ing at Trouville or Dieppe or endeavoring by a course of mineral waters to do away with the effects of the previous Winter's gayeties. But this year the recen¢ change of government and the prospect of further changes kept them in town, while the projected visit of the Shah induced the Pleasure-loving people to wait until after his departure. So that,%o my astonishment, I found moat of my Parisian friends in their Winter quar- ters, and to my horfor’ I was at once overwhelmed with questions coneeraing this man, who is lter- ally the béte noire of'my present existence. Was he trés mabpropre et és mal-honnéte > Was it true that when in Londom: he sat in bis box at the opera and spat into the pit? Did he slap the Princess of Wales famiarly on the sfoulder and poke the old Empress of Germany in the ribs? Did he always go about in a coat covered with diamonds and worth many miilion france? Did he suggest to the Prince of Wales that the Duke of Sutherignd’s head should be cut of, and did he, during ‘hts sojourn at Buckingham Pal- ace, cause one of his servants to “eat stick” to that extent that the man’s yells were heard a mile of, and that he had to be left behind in conse- quence of not: being able to put his feet to the ground? You know the senseless littie anecdote in which this GOBEMOUCHE POPULATION delight and with what trifes they are contented? Meanwhile one searched the newspapers in vain for information as tothe Shah’s movements, The French journals were always singularly void of news; now they are bare, blank sheets of childish folly and drivelling inanity. The writers had dis- covered that Shahfand “chat” had the same sound, and three-fourths of thetr compositions were de- Voted to jokes on titis subject, with questionable references to a “chatte.” At length, however, it transpired that His Persian Majesty was to arrive at Cherbourg late on Saturday, and that we might look for him'without fail tn Paris on Sunday even- ing. The route selected for the Shah’s entry into Paris is probably the most magnificent, and irom ascenic point of view the most effective in the wholc world. A visitor to London is whirled over the house tops, among ‘the tan yards of Bermondsey and the chandters’ shops of the Borough, or he burrows half under ground through the suburban felicities of Camden Town, or penetrates the grimy fastnesses ‘of Shoreditch, A stranger to New York mates hie way Sus! wepe arial Village of Harlem, or se: ; ie bP on the Pultonian store, or among resque mountatis of Des ‘Thé twmmediate environs of Vienna or Berlin do‘not offer many more gttrac- tions. But alighting, a8 it was arranged for him to do, at Courbevote, the Shah would drive through the Bots de Botlogne down the Avenue de Nenuilly, past the Arc de Etoile, down the magnificent vista of the Champs-Elysées to the matchless Place de la Concorde, with its superb statues and its fountains ‘brighter than thove of Bandusia, and so to the Palace of the Petit Bourbon, which had been prepared for his reception. It is needless to say that 4 gratuitous /éve being in prospect, every Parisian, of whatever rank in life, determined to enjoy it, Also it was necessary that I@bould be there. Ihad seen enouzh of the Shah and his Persian suite, “perstoas oft puer ap- paratus.” “Boy, I hate the Persian state; butl ‘was here ag the representative of the HzRaxp. ‘The duties of an’ atchdeacon,” said the late Bishop Blomfield, when pressed upon the point, “are to execute archdiaconal functions;” so 1 conclude THE DUTIES OF A REPORTER are toreport. To besure, it would not have been diMcult to have imagined the whole scene and to have described it without going near the place; ‘but such conduct would not have been honorabie, and it might have been found out. So I determined to be a spectator, and the only question was from what position I should spectate. It was, of course open to any one to mix with the crowd; but in that case any one must be prepared to have his tees trodden on and his stomach invaded by the butt-ends of military muskets. Then there were tribanes or seated platforms erected on either side the Arc for the accommodation of distinguished visitors, and I had had sent to mea blue ticket marked B., which insured me admission into the dipiomatic tribune, and a green ticket marked C., which gave me equal privileges in the space re- served for the press. But, better far than either of these, I bad an invitation to a house at the top of the Cbamps Elysées, the windows of which com- .Manded on one side & perfect view of the Arc de VEtotle, on the other the whole range down to the Place de la Concorde—a house where there would be not merely a “dream” but a realization of “fair women” and iced champagne and pleasant con- verse and other ingredients wherewith to make pasa that mauyzis quart a’heure while we were waiting for the Shab. Needless to say, I accepted this po, liteness, and punctaally at five o'clock I rendered myself at my destination. MY Hostess bore a titled name and had not yet allowed the newly-fledged repablican simplicity to dispel the ideas which had been instilled into ner as grande dame, Her footmen were biazing in livery, her groom of the chambers wore powder in his hair and asilver chain of office over his black suit. Her house was a perfect treasury of art, and the ‘walls of the staircase up which I was conducted to the third floor—which from its height afforded the best position whence to view the procession—were hung with priceless pietures. Arrived at my desti- nation, I found three rooms en suite—a sitting room, a bedroom and a cabinet de toilette—all fur- nished with the most perfect taste. In the firat were huge lounges, sofas and chaises longues, covered with cool chintz; a latge bureau in black oak, with gilt clamps; @ writing table, with elegant knick-knacks; @ piano, tapestry on the walls, and Persian carpets—doubtiess out of compliment to the Shah—on the floor. The oil paintings were three in number—a peasant girl washing her face at am ordinary roadside trough, by Jundt; @ bit of till iife by Euphemie Muraton, and in the place of honor a large Swiss or Scotch landscape, with, in the back- ground, @ fringe of dark firs, in the foreground a foaming, brawling stream, by Gustave Doré. Framed and banging on the wall wae en autograph letter dated from Tours, and signed by Leon Gam- betta, during the time of his dictatorship, thank- ing my hostess for generous aid to the wounded, By ite side an autograph set of verses by Emile Angier, “de l’Academie Frangaise.” A table in one corner was spread with choicest refreshments, ‘nd from the open windows one looked down Upon a perfectiy kept garden, with »# brililant fountain sparging in its midst. Immediately op- Dosite us, across the Champa Elys¢os, was the Gesinitety fixed for inure | hotel of the Duc de ex who had Caumont la Force, and there, as the windows, some of the loveliest and ‘MOST CELEBRATED PARISIENNES Were congregated. Among them Madame Pour- tales, Madame Von Moltke, wife of the Danish En- yoy and related tothe famous old Prussian Gen- eral, and the Duchess La Tremoille. Al) the houses were decorated with flags (the Stare end Stripes were in fullest force), and most of them had sight- seers on the roois, A better position was scarcely possible. On my right was the Arc de \’Etoile, its centre portion filled up with a huge velvet canopy, while distinctly visible between it and the nearest surrounding houses bristied on the horizon the rugged outline of Mount Valerien, the fortress which played such an important pait in both the last sieges of Paris. Far away on the leit rose the ancient tower of Notre Dame. On either side of the ArcI saw the tribunes for which, as I have mentioned, I had tickets Of admission, filled with persons on whose devoted heads the sun was shin- ing and who looked already hot and tired. The Glass of champagne Srappé, to which one frequently turned as a relief, derived an additional Piquancy from the contemplation of these wretched persons! ‘The centre roadway of the Champs Elysées, save where it was bere and there dotted by cantering orderlies or stationary officers, was kept entirely clear, The whole length of the sidewalks was fringed with infantry, looking very mest and sol- @ier-like ip their biue tunics, red trousers and ‘epanlettes, white gaiters and gloves. Most of these men belonged to regiments which had been sur- rendered by Bazaine at Mets, and had alverwards aasisted in the siege of Paris and the destraction of the Commune. Behind them was ranged the Stationary crowd, about four deep, and behind that again came, in enormous numbers, the circulating crowd, ever ebbing and flowing between the Arc ‘end the Place de la Concorde, with but compara- tively very few biouses to be seen in It, respectable, good-tempered, chatting and laughing in the height of ite enjoyment. But few events occurred to break the sameness, The usual dog ran its wild career amid the usual volley of epithets, and a watering cart, which squirted ite contents over the legs of the nearest bystanders, created much dehght. At twenty minutes past five Maréchal MacMahon, attended by his staf, rode up the Champs Eleysées and round the Aro, ungreeted, 80 far as 1 heard, by a single cheer, More remarkable still was the ab- sence of the military salute usually indispensable under such ¢ircumstances. It is 0 much the habit in England to acknowledge the arrival of great personages with appropriate music that I was sur- prised to find the various military bands by which we were surrounded—and there were certainly four within close hearing—keep total silence as the President of the Republic rode by. On reflection, however, it was dificult to think what air would have been in good taste. The ‘‘Marsellaise” is now looked upon as ultra rouge and appertaining to the Commune. The “Mourir pour la Patrie’ might have been suggestive of exactly what the Maréchaldid not do. ‘Partant Pour la Syrie” was written by Queen Hortense and adopted by Louis Napoleon, and there, I think, the catalogue of so- called national French airs ends, To be sure, “Que Jaime les Militaires” or “Voici le Sabre de Mon Pere those choice morceauz of M. Offenbach, Might have been taken as delicate compliments to the present military régime, but they were not offered, and the President passed along in silence. It is ungrate/ul in me, perhaps, to speak lightly of these bands, for one or other of them had been Playing without interval all the afternoon. And such @ variety of music, too, to suit all tastes, One delighted in the ‘Beautiful Blue Danube” ana Straus’ waltzes, another discoursed the composi- tions of M. Offenbach aforenamed, while a third gave us seiections trom the melody-teeming ‘son- nambula,” the soulsturring “Lucrezia” or the Majestic “Norma.” THE PARISIAN POPULACE, albeit childishiy delighted with very small things, 1s easily bored, and I suppose those in power thought it necessary to make some demonstration, however trifiine. --- os quarter to vue oot been lounging at ease, were called to “attention” and ordered to Ox bayonets. This Manceavre is simple in itself, and when, as in this cage, it is smartly done, does not occupy mach time in carrying out. But it had the desired effect, for a time at least, of concentrating the attention Of the populace and of eliciting many complimen- tary remarks. Soon we ‘eli rather flat again, and remained so until the happy thought occurred to one of the bandmasters to start his men in playing the “Persian Hymn.” Immediately previous to and consequent upon the arrival of the Shah in Eng- land we had four or five Persian hymns, all claim- ing to be the real original article, each Tepudiating any connection with over the way, and accusing its rivals of the un- tradesmanlike falsehood of being the same concern. Qur modern English composers, though for the most part not a very strong, are a very in- dustrious race, and take advantage of every oppor- tunity of letting loose floods of melody at two shil- lings acopy. Nog prominent personage visits us without these troubadours tinkling their panos in his praise, and in default of other subjects they will fall back on home topics, invoke heaven's biessing om the Queen, the Prince of Wales and the rest of the royal family,oreven maunder dismally about “Our deaf old Church of England,” and expresa their hopes that she may come to no further grief. 1am bound, however, to confess that all THE PERSLAN HYMNS that I heard at home had an unmistakable smack of Cheapside and Chafing Cross about them, whiie that played to-day by the band of the Thirty-eighth infantry was tinged with a barbaric wildness and a savage Orientalism which led one to believe in its originality. In my elevated position we had, as mteliectual pleasure, conversation with the ladies, inter. spersed with occasional music, and, as grosser de- lights, iced champagne, sandwiches and cigarettes to enable us to pass the time; but the next hour must have gone wearily with thecrowd who had nosuch amusements to fall back upon. It was seven o'clock when General Ladmirault, the Gov- ernor of Paris, in full uniform, very much cocked- hatted and gold-laced, rode by with his staff and took up his position in front of tne Arc. He also did not get a cheer, though there was no reason why the population around him, thoroughiy re- mpectable as it was, should not have given him one. By the ouvriers of Belleville he would prob- ably be hissed, for he is a stern man, with a tend- ency to put his foot down heavily on those commit- ting a disturbance; nor is he very popular with journalists, having his own ideas in regard to the freedom of the press. Anyhow he went by in salience, to return at the end of ten minutes at the head of what was called the procession. Long pent Up expectation in a large mob usually finds its vent tn @ swelling roar, but no such sound heralded the approach of the Shah. The Governor of Paris and his staf, on horseback, acted as pioneers for the cortége; then came a handful of cuirassiers, then two or three more mounted ofli- cers, them two outriders—in the well known green | and gold imperial livery, as I live! There were the old green and gold liveries, but where were the magnificent barouches, the three hundred gainea horses, the full fedged funkies in gorgeous liveries, the Cent Gardes gleaming in steel and gold, the purple awnings powdered with golden bees and other attributes of imperial state? Where were the people who owned them—the impassive man with the mask-like face, the spiked mustache and the iron hand in the velvet giove ’ where the fair Woman with the chiselled features and the goid- powdered hair ? where speculating De Morny, crafty Persigny, ruthless St. Arnaud, reliable Pelissier and all the crew? The crowd seemed startled at THE RESURRBCTION OF THB IMPERIAL LIVERY, and, from force of hapit perhaps, burst into a cheer. The demonstration died away, however, immediately, and not # sound greeted the arrival Of the carriage, an ancient court vehicle, in which gat the Shah, with the President at his left hand and two of his suite sitting on the front seat. This absence of demonstration, this apparent imposal- bility of cheering im the French and other Euro- pean nations, is astonishing to us. Englishmen an cheer; Americans can cheer. We give our “Hip-hip-burrah!” and you throw m @ “tiger” ‘which makes all ‘the blué ethereal sky” resound. They want something, these fellowa—i don’t know ‘What it ie; langs, stamina or something—that we of Anglo-@axop bicod Uneage possess, and they can’tobeera bit. So silently the Shah went by. Anothey court carriage contained his Visier and otner leading swells, but there any attempt at show ended, and the rest of the procession con- sisted of @ dozen common, shabby voitures de remise—“hacks,” in point of fact, pot one whit better than you would dnd outside the depots at New York or Boston, A sight like this touches & Frenchman on his sorest point, Some of my fellow- guests standing near me cried, “Oh, la pauvre Francei” and exchanged condolences with tears im their eyes, As the last carriage passed the Rond Pout the mob broke in and closely followed the procession as it does in the Lord Mayor's show 4 London or at an Irishman’s funeral in New York. Now you will see why I have apologized and acknowledged myself in the wrong for stating that these aifuirs were better managed in France,, When I wrote in Washington a very diferent kind of Frange to the land which I am now visiting was in my memory. The France of to-day plays. at being a republic and endeavors to. persuade her- Self that she is serious. But the real Jact is that @u fond abe is THOROUGHLY MONARCHIAL UR IMPBRIALISTIO; that, with few exceptions, her people love the pomp and parade, the showand the glitter which belong to such instigutions, and utterly abhor and despise the matural atern simplicity of a republic, and that to-morrow Parisians will be in despair, uot becauee they had not the courage to withstand the, temp- tation of giving a reception to @ person who is utterly uutmportant to them, but because, by, Teason of the principles of the government thoy profess and of their poverty, they were unable to carry out that reception in. their old trinmphant style, BDMUND YATES, MR. GEO. W. HOSMER ON THE SHAG. ena The Entree of the Persian Monarch Into the French CapitaimAn Old Herald Correspondent Tells the Story=-Bits of Wit, Phifosophy and Satire=Docs It Pay To Be a Shaht Paris, July 7, 1873, The Shah of Persia reached Paris yesterday at seven P, M., and behold the grand agony of many days was over io ten minutes, He was put down from the care at Pasay, driven thence in an open coach to the Arc de Triomphe, where oficial speeches Were infiicted npon him, and was driven thence again by the Avenue des Champs Elysées, the Place de la Concorde and the Quai d’Oraay tothe Palais Bourbon, where he is to live while here, in the reception there was but little of personal cere- mony; but it was altogether @ weli contrived spec- tacle, somewhat cheap and. poor im certain partic- ulars, and aimed apparently rather to sirike the imagination of the Prince with @ show, of the city and the people than to dagzie the eyes of the mul- titude with display of princely magnificence. TUR ROUTB. The point.of reception and the route to the pal- ace were. admirably chosen, All the part of Paria that physically comes into the occasion 1s grandiose. in effect. The Arc de Triomphe itself, which stands on 4 hill higher than any oue of Rome's seven, 18 worth coming from Persia to see. The view down the avenue towards the city 1s closed by the ruined wallofthe palace of the Tuileries rising grandly over the heavy foliage of the gigantic chestnuts in the Tuileries garden; toward the Bois and the river the view closes more. grendly still in that looming seat of artifcical thunder, Mont Valerian; toward Courbevole the eye rests at the point where the troops placed their battery to fire atthe Arcand its defenders in the time of the Commune, and the view ts. along an avenue straight as an arrow, and not Jess fine in intention than thas of the Avenue des Champs Elyaées, though the success 1s rather in the intention than in the achievement, ‘This notion of carrying the Shah to the little suburb of Passy and dropping him ata point. for which there was no other reason but @ pleasant Toufe into the city was @) pleco of muntoipet Strategy, and is the firat instance +s long while ofa tritioabant soiusion of any diMoult promeu “by any one in authority in Paris; for-tnis city, like ‘most other cities, is not so happy in its suburbs as many other things. OUTSKIRTS GENERALLY. There is one side on which most modern cities are alike—that is the outside. Im the dreadful old tines when cities were built with walls there was & definite limit to the possibilities of eccentric shabbiness in the outskirts of a town, but since the change that has done away with walls it has been very otherwise, and the grotesque play of freedom and architectural fancy on these Tagged edges of municipai life bas generally had Tesults far trom agreeable to the eye of the visitor— not to mention his nose. If your town hadin it the forty cathedrais, like those of Rome and Milan, and whole ayenues of public edifices like the’ Capitol at Washington, it must materially belittle the effect to have to approach it by traversing the acres of bone-boiling establishments and pig pena that flourish so sweetly on the line of the Hudson River Railroad at the upper end of New York. Yet it is evident that since so few visitors come im balioons the greater umber must necessarily cross the. unpleasant edges of the town somewhere before reaching those points near the middle of it where visitors are usually entertained, All this subject was evi- dently well thought over by the Paris authorities, In London they have not attended to this in the least. They never do, Such a notion as stopping to consider effect on so fine a point as taste does not commonly occur to organized bodies of Britons, They brought the Shah in just as every one else comes in—by the regular train and by way of the cabbage gardens and the tinkers’ shops and the slaughter houses and the cracker factories, and the tron furnaces and the knackers’ yards, and the breweries and the petroleum warehouses, and the back yards and back windows of all the slipshod population; but even there the soute is not al- gether commonplace, for it goes over five miles of housetops, and the notion of riding over the tops of other peoples’ houses for such a distance, of sitting on the head of a whole city at the rate of forty miles an hour must have commended itself to the fancy Of so superior a person as a Persian Prince. THE FIRST COUP FOR PARIS. It was, therefore, altogether a good conception on the part of his entertainers here to land His Barbarian Majesty at a place coming whence toward the city his eye should first be caught by an object 80 imposing, physically, as this towering memento of many victories, and it was equally well conceived to take him thence by a route so grand that his eye could scarcely light upon a mean or pitiful object in the whole distance. In- deed, this thought was the masterpiece of the day. THE MISE EN SCENE. Preparation for the reception was made at the Arc de Triomphe, with an abundant faith in the climate. It was an open-air festival, and seemed in danger when there fell for a minute or two the ightest possible spray of Summer rain, but the sun triamphantly came forth, asserted himself and saved his reputation. Completely around the Arc de Triomphe, and at @ distance of fifty or sixty yards from it, was drawn a circle Of seats, the rows of benches being @rranged behind and above one another, as in | the boxes Of @ theatre. Between these seats and the seats at the foot of the Arc, the space, perhaps fifty yards wide, was to be kept clear when the Shah should come, and this open space was therefore a sort of circus, around which tlie Shah and his suite were to be driven before the peo- ple sitting tn the boxes. Thé circle of seats was cut only at the points where the Shah was to come in and go out, 80 that, instead of a full circle of boxes, there were practically two equal amphi- theatres. Imagine, therefore, a circus on such scale and of such a character that it may have the arco of Triumph in the middie and not be altogether overpowered by such a centrepiece, with the Shah of Persia driven around the ring as chief per- former, all under an open sky of ultra-marine blue, with ® Niagara of sunshine pouring down on the whole scene—imagine this and you have the pic- tare. The French and English thougot it was warm, but the New Yorkers stood it like salaman- ders, THE OUTER ROW AND THE UPPER TIERS. Bebind the rows of benches, however, there was something else giving more cievation to this outer circle, All the neighboring houses, built on s uni- form plan, are 20 groupea that their front walis form an imterrupted circle around the Arc—at @ distance of afew hundred yarda Behind the cir- cle of seats on the place therefore arose the foliage of the young trees,,and bebind this foliage the walle of the houses, every window and baicony, and the roois also, crowded with people, d THE CENTREPIECE, Taste and skill had also made the most of the Are de Triomphe asa vehicle of decoration. At its summit, and visible miles away, was @ colossal structure of the Arms of Persia, @ gigantic lion on the desert, with @ rising sun behind him. Every un ray finished in a Persian fag., From this point down te the top o! the open archway the tront was covered with streamers in the Persian colors, worked into ap incomprehensible pattern. The outer middie archway was draped so as to form an elegant paviilfon for the reception of ihe Shah by the municipality of Paria. On the outside this grand pevilion. was made of maroon velvet traced with gold; inside it was in green and white linen decorated with gold. There was a golden throne for the Shah, and there were golden chairs for the members of the Munici- Pality. Around the foot of the arch inside the chains wero hundreds of chaira, and at either side of the Arc were places for the bands. All around in front of the outer circle of seats were Venetian masts at every thirty fect, bearing orifammes of the French color. THE SOLDIERS AND THE COLORS. The ground at tne Aro de Triomphe was kept by the grenadicrs, but all down the Avenue des Champs Elysdées and all the rest of the way to the Palais Bourdon the route was kept by troops or the line and the Chasseurs-A-pied, Many residents along the Avenue des Champs Elysées made a dis- Play of colors, and the Stars and Stripes were pien- tifully seen, and near them a goodly array of those Deautiful faces’ and clegant figures that are always Rear to those colors on such occasions. THE WEATHER AND THE TURNOUT. It was a Paris day at its best. There were the common glory of blue above that 1s to be seen from many other cities as well as Paris, and a glory of Gayety below that ts to be seen at high tide in Paris only. Fortunately it was Sunday. As Parts is somewhat tndifferent to the Shah he might but for this circumstance bave had a duller reception ; but since burly workmen, and short, fat shopkeepers and tidy little milliners were all out in holiday attire for the sake of the day, they readily enough all went in one direction for the sake of the Shah. All the afternoon the people were moving from all parts of the vast city to take their places at some point on the route, but the place of prefer- efce was thé’ Champs Elysées, since there there was entertainment to while away the timo till the Persian tédiousness should come. So the whirligigs @nd merty-go-rounds ‘reaped a golden harvest, the t#monaiders were in wonderfal voloe, and the marionettes of the Republic never Were half so happy. ‘The'fountains playod as if the very jets of water were delighted to have the op- portunity, and the clarions brayed as the troops moved to their places, and thé thousands of feet ‘worked up the fine earth till the air was filled with dust, and the sun shone with increasing energy ‘until im any other city it would have become atrocious; but here on the Champs Elysées one was always within twenty feet of a cool place under the shade of trees, and was ute ofs chair fora cent. } ALL BRADY, At five P. M. the places in the enclosure around ‘the Arc de Triomphe were beginning to fill up, and at eix it-was one packed mass of pleasant human- ity. Ladies in brilliant Summer toilets formed the greater part of the company. Never were the lists of any of Promsard’s tournays better garnished with brilijant color and pretty’faces. Waiting thus there were several false alarms. First came the Prefect of the Seine, and every one stood on tiptoe to see the Shah Then came a general, and there was a similar scramble. At ‘ast Veleriean began to sound the alarm and we knew he was coming. Sure enough he came this time ; was driven into the Circus, stopped in front Of TNO DAVIMUU, Bue ome afnia enanh and disap- peared im the enclosure; remained there ten minutes, came out, stepped tato the coach again, went half round the circus, out at the other side and was goue, leaving on the mind of the assem- bled many no other impression than that of the presence Of the cuirassiers—the resemblance of the whole to an ordinary turnout under the Em- pire—with @ procession of shabby carriages coming behind it. People in the lists and in the windows of the houses behind and on the housetops stoed up and waved their handkerchiefs and strained their eyes, but the show was over—decorousiy, quietly. tamely. The Shah had really come and was gone; for even the most absolute monarch cannot con- sume more than three minutes in driving two or three hundred yards. DEMEANOR OP THE PEOPLE. As for enthusiasm on the part of the people over the Shah and the show there never could bave been less on avy human occasion, scarcely except- img @ funeral, for people frequently bury their friends with decided emphasis, while the people of Paris did what they had to do toward the Stab hatlessly, with utter indifference; and that at- tempt that is always made by the public-spirited individual who proposes three cheers on these occasions fell on ears more than commonly cold and on @ temper distinctly irresponsive, THR REAL BPYROT OP THE SHOW. But the inquisitive observer who tooked at the people.of Paris yesterday to see what they thought of tie Shab could bat remember the adventure of the phijosopher who went to look for a man with @ cap on and found a man with a hat on; or he had recalled to his remembrance the fortune of that Girst rate fellow who went out to look for two or three jackasses and found @ throne. Thougn the Sbah was not in their thoughts and even went for very little in their eyes, there was something in their thoughts quite decidedly; the minds were not vacant, and though the people did not at large speak their thought to one an- other—did not, indeed, seem to be altogether con- scious of the general drift of thought—they were, fn fact, in that intellectual condition that occurs when a whole mass of people—a whole population— is under the influence of one and the same mental ‘impression, and does not utter it, yet ia not reso- lately silent, but silent from other causes—silent partly because many scarcely know what they are thinking of; because many others, not knowing that the same thought is in the mind of their neigh- bor, keep it to themselves, doubting ita sympathetic reception; and because, finally, the daredevil class of persons who are on the lookout to become the speaking tubes through which all extreme or ex- travagant thoughts shall come forth, are generally notin the common secret, for want of common sympathy, and, thinking little themselves, never know what is thought by others till it crops out in queer fashions next day. THE UNFORGOTTEN PAST REVIVES. ‘These people in the Bois de Boulogne, around the Arc ae Triomphe and along the Avenue des Champs Elysées and on the Place de Ooncorde, were ail thinking of the Empire and its twenty years of splendor; not with longing or hope, perhaps not even with general sympathy, but certainly not with- out regret. In some degree, we may fairly say, this wasan accident, Since the days of the Empire there has scarely been a public show of the pacific kind in Paria—shows enough there have been of another sort. One’s memory is crowded with the number. Ihave been in the throngs that looked on the burning of the Tuileries; I have seen the shooting in the Place Venddme and a hard battle on the Boulevard des Italiens; I have feit the earth shake with the explosion that blew up the Observ- atory, In, all this there was to me a cer- taim sense of the spectacular side of these events, but it was not my country that ‘was thus dragged through blood and fire, and I can testify that Frenchmen did not enjoy these things as shows. But all that is passed away and half forgotten, and now they are all out again on a July day to see a show—when nobody's home is in danger, and there is no obvious neces- mty to steal along the street close to the walls of the houses out of respect to the possibility of a Stray shot; and here they are waiting with infinite patience and infinite dlague for this Lion de Perse, qut comme leg autres tions est un chat. And, suddenly—what do they see? Here comes everybody was happy except Rochefort and Fionrens, Small wonder that they forget the Shah in the crowd of these thick-coming fancies, and attend less to the sbow as they see it than to. whet that ahow calls up. People say to-day it would heye been @ grand chance for « coup @éat, with. all things ready, if some one had thought of it in ume, Mats, @ n'y. plus de prevoyance. It seems, indeed, almost as if the show itself were, like Hamlet’s play of the mouse-trap, com- trived to “catch the consctence”’ of the sovereign people; but, continued or coming tn the chapter of aceidents, the one thing that the occasion did ex- hibit was, that at avery little distance under the surlace of poy ular lifoin Paris we come upon un. republican fancies; that the merest scratch reaches them, and may some time develop that they are more than fancies—and, in short, that the Repub- lic 18. @ veneer, GEORGE W. HOSMER, MR. GRENVILLE NURRAY'S SKETCE. A General Review of Persian Politics< The Little Impediments to Holding a High Position in the State—Tho Bas- tinado and Other Punishments for Political Delinquencics. Panis, July 7, 1873, There 1s no donbt that the Shah has made adipio- Matic blunder in quitting his own dominions; be- cause where “ignorance is biiss 'tis folly to be wise.” THE SHAH’S IGNORANCE of his real power and position had many advane tages for him, and many disadvantages for all countries in commercial or political relations with him. It was extremely dimMicult for the most skilful negotiator to deal with a shallow-minded and barbarian prince, who honestly thought himself the first monarch in the universe, and who would have resented any hint whatever to the contrary, To argue with him or his ministers was ridiculous; they could not understand arguments, and replied to them by sententious proverbs, sometimes by levity and impertinence, for the Persians are the French of the East—an impudent and light-headed people. They could not be convinced even bya beating, and to beat them was @ most costly and troublesome proceeding. Thus England had a vurn-up with them in 1858, but no good-came of it, They had long wanted a lesson, and. at last they @ot it, but entirely declined to mend their man- ners. Indeed, they sent the whole British Lega- tion, under Sir Charles Murray, to Coventry, and kept them in mortal fear of assassination, ‘Take care,’ the Primo Minister of the day would remark to the English Minister—“fake care to keep. quiet, for otherwise there willbe a rising of the populace, and you and your secretaries will all be murdered, as the members of the Russian mission were a few years ago; am your goyernment must. put up patiently with the loss of you, as the Rus- sian government did upon tne lamentable occa- sion to which I refer.” So saying, he would smoke. 8 kaleon, or water pipe, with the utmost gravity, and dismiss the subject, THB LATEST W4B BETWEEN GREAT BRITAIN AND PERSIA. Ifthe truth must be told England did not deserve well of the Persians, and the origin of the quarrel. which was last settled by arms between them was something worse than contemptible. BRITISH MINISTER IN PERSIA. ‘There had long been a dispute between the Indian government and the Foreign OmMice as to which of them should appoint the ofMicers of the British mission there. The Indian government found the money and gave about twelve thousand a year for the support. of the legation. It therefore han- Kered longingly after the patronage attached to @uch @ good thing. The Minister, who had great suthority and importance, received £6,000 a year, and could easily put by £4,000 of it; for, do what he would in the way of extravagance, ho could hardly spend more than & pound @ day on tne expenses of his household in @ country where the necessaries of life were at almost nominal prices, and nothing else was to be had jor love or money. Then the Minister lived rent free in a fur- nisned house at Tehran, and the expense of his Summer residence, wherever he hiked to fx it, as well as all travelling expensea when he moved about with the Shab, were paid for him. Most of his servants were paid by the government, too, and he might put nearly what he liked under the elastic heading of ‘‘extraordinaries” into his pub- ic accounts, which were only audited by his own paid agent_at the Foreign Office. He had also power to draw on the secret service fund, of which mo accounts were kept at all. All his staf’ were paid equally handsomely, and boarded and lodged at the public expense. Appointments to the Brit- ish mission in Persia were, therefore, eagerly coveted by officers in the Indian service, and tne pay of a Minister or even an attaché, in addition to their own, was well worth having. On the other hand, the young English no- blemen belonging to the regular diplomatic corps id not fancy the Perian mission at ali, and the For- eign Office agents who practically administered the patronage of their department used it eitherass penal settlement to punish those diplomatists who would not pay them blackmail or to promote those who did in & sly way out of their turn. When they played the latter trick they gave an appointment in Persia to @ nobleman who was pri- vately informed that he would not be expected to gothere. Thus Lord Napier, who was afterwards British Minister to the United States, was ap- pointed to Persia in the September of one year and transferred to Constantinople in the month of January of the following year. Uf course he neither went nor could have gone to Persia during the pe- riod which intervened between these two appoint- ments, and his nomination to the Persian Legation at all was merely @ pleasant and profitable trick of his agent at the Foreign Office, — VICTORY OP THE PORRIGN OFFICE AGENTS, After a long straggie between the Indian govern- ment and the Foreign Omice the Indian govern- ment had been outmancuvred, and in 1853, when diplomatic relations were suspended between Persia and England, the patronage of the mission at Teheran was in the hands of the Foreign Office agents. They had appointed the Honorable Charles Augustus Murray, who had been Master of the Queen’s Household, and who had married the daughter of Mr. James Wadsworth, an American gentleman of large fortune. Mr. Charlies Murray ‘was 8 man of fair abilities. He had written 4 novel called “The Prairie Bird,” which had passed through several editions. He was a contributor to rather a dull periodical known as Frazer's Magazine, and he had been for some years British Political Agent and Consul General jn Egypt. But he knew no more of Persia than he knew of Timbuctoo, and very soon got into difficulties there. Lord Palmerston, who had not appointed him, but.who had comnived good humoredly at his appotmtment to please the Court, observed dryly to the Persian Envoy in London, that ‘If England sent a gentleman to Teheran the Persians got him into trouble, and if she sent any one who Was not a gentleman he got them into trouble.” Lord Palmerston’s idea of a gentieman was that he should be the son or brother of a lord, and Mr. Murray was both. PERSIAN METHOD OF NEGOTIATING. ‘The Persians nearly worried this ex-Master of the Queen’s Househola out of his wits. They began by givfug him the vexatious nickname of the “Un- lucky Footetep,” and then they brought some queer charges against his morality—charges which they afterwaras oMciaily retracted and allowed to have been false. Then they teazed him. Whenever, he was instructed by the Foreign Office agents, who knew no more of Persia than hedid, to make any diplomatic communication to the Shah’s govern- ment, they replied by translating and transcribing into Persian a page or two of Vattel, which had no- thing whatever to do with the subject under dis- cussion. He could get nothing else out of them, There was an Obscure Armenian who had been hal