New Britain Herald Newspaper, November 4, 1915, Page 14

R (4 OR another month women will| be more interested in how ta tide along with clothes on hand till November than in ultra fashionable designs. With this month of respite for externals, we may interest ourselves with accessories and informalities, of which our four tea gowns give charming hints. All are mwd in a fine quality of crepe de The Lady Teasdale, with the grace- ful rippling back, is beautifully hand embroidered at the V neck, elbow sleeves and girdle, pointed at the cen- ter front. Any becoming shade may be chosen—old rose, amber, copen- hagen blue, navy or wistaria. Almost the same rippling effect is obtained in the next design, its graceful fullness being caught at the back with rows of hemstitching, headed with a dainty fan ruche of self material. The front is finished in like manner. Ruffles with picot edges trim the sleeves, forming a collar with long revers held by silk rosettes and tiny buds. Light blue, pink, pearl. and lavender are favorite colors for this design. The handsome home dinner gown is combined with chiffon. The box plait- ed skirt fs gathered to a net under- bodice on flat elastic. The full draped coat is cut to form long wide revers in the front, which are trimmed with wide pleot edged ruffles outlined with hem- stitching. At the waist line wide satin ribbon of contrasting color is drawn through picot edged slits. Rosette and streamer ends finish the side front. Navy or pale blue, gray, black or old tose may be used for this model. The other informal dinner gown for home is of nile green crepe de chine combined with beautiful ecru lace ag’ coat effect. The skirt is plaited and attached to the waist on a flat elastic. Ribbon rosette and streamers also fin- ish the side front. The Gabriel sleeves are finished with a silk tassel, and frills of finely plaited net form long revers and collar. French buds in delicate pastel shades are clustered at the shoulders and neck. Lingerie, frilled and ruffied, is tak- ing on fit, contrasting past slouchiness. Petticoats have much fullness and from knee to hem are flounced and much trimmed, evening wear utilizing net, chiffon and silk ruches. Combina- tions show scalloped bottoms with hemstitched edges and insertion trim- mings. Some of the new skirts, often with plain effects front and back, have marked fullness at the sides. This is attained by plaits, tucks, smocking, folds and shirrs. It is said that dust ruffies are returning. Waist lines seem to tend toward the normal, although one plece gowns still take liberties with our torsos. Tallored coats are longer. Certain models fall even be- low the bottom of the skirt. Straight lines are used in the top part of coats frequently, the skirt part flaring. Sports hats of charmeuse felt and other beautifully soft felts show a wide range of color and shapes. All feather hats, especially in white, are popular. Silk beavers for stiff “top hats” are featured for smart tailored wear. Italy brings in coque feathers for the ber- sagliere hat, which is picturesque and LATEST SM S werviceable. One tone effects for materials are popular—navy, light brown and dark greens in gaberdine and serge for serv- fceable street wear, while chiffon cloth and faille are still favorites for the house. Bodices still resemble short jackets. Certain models show bolero effects. Sleeves remain long and are slightly fuller, while collars are high. even to “chokers” and often unwired. DESIGNED BY LANE BRYAN T NEW Clever little touches as to belts, col- lars, sleeves and skirt draperies sound fall notes. - Headbands of velvet rib- bon or mock jewels add attractive DRESS AS AN ART SOME few persons labor under the ervoneous impression that the in- stinct to dress well, to understand clothes as they can be understood, is a general attribute of feminine nature end that all women incline toward @ress as ducks to water. On the con- trary, the women who thoroughly com- prehend the niceties of dress and clothe themselves with the perfection that raises it to a fine art are few and far between. True, there are many women in these days who dress nicely, but not #0 very many who dress really well. Few American women understand dresa as does the Frenchwoman, for the reason that whereas most Frenchwom- en have the courage of their opinions and dress either in the extreme of fash- fon or regardless of fashion, according to their idea of the particular style that wuits them, the American woman is apt to compromise and dares to be neither entirely fashionable nor entirely orig- inal The art of dress, the comprehension of its subtleties, is an instinct inborn or absolutely lacking. Some women can make the oldest tailor made and cheapest millinery appear effective, and others wear exquisite and costly gar- ments and are yet indistinguishable from the crowd. It is impossible to explain exactly where this difference Hes. It may be In the angle of the hat, the poise of the figure, the arrange- ment of the hair. A tiny touch here and there and the distinctive note is struck ' which makes all the difference to the general appearance, Some women are tiresome about their hats. They never by any chance pin them on at a smart angle. The smartest French models become merely mediocre in their hands, or, rather, on their heads. The fact that there are right and wrong ways of wearing head- gear 18 beyond their consideration. Some women, again, have such excel- lent latent possibilities that one's fingers itch to smarten them up—wom- en with exquisite profiles, lovely color- ing, good figures; women who could be the cynosure of every eve would they only take more trouble about their clothes and their general appearance. So many are content to let everything slide, not to bother about detail, and, without being exactly untidy, they give an impression of carelessness that the cleverest dressmakers and milliners in the world cannot counteract. The art of dress is chiefly attention to detail, a minute study given to small matters that produce a perfect whole, a deftness of touch and quickness of eye that discover exactly where re- form i{s needed and how that reform can be carried out. This is the French- woman’s secret, an inborn knowledge that, in spite of close competition, still keeps her first among the women of the world who aspire to lead in the realms of Mme. de Mode. Fads and Fancies For Fall DARKER blouse colors mark the ap- proach of autumn. Instead of nsrdering white ones, plum, purple, rowanberry red and the dahlia shades ere chosen, with collars flaring from the throat at the back and spiked at the sides. Fur makes an early appearance. In its summer guise it is just a collar and, perchance, cuffs upon a coat of tricot silk, and it is ysually white. The big scarf and the squaw blanket, made of gauze and striped silk and wool respectively, have “corners” of tur. “Corners” are smarter than the usual peltry bordering and, it may be mentioned, require less fur than the continuous edging. It 1s smart to think out unostenta- tlous ways of wearing fur, but the ways must be effective. A roll of fur that fits the throat like a ruff, with brace- lets to match, the hidden metal springs of which cause the pelt to clasp the Jixists closely, is a desirable novelty. Lynx is a fur with a future, but at present the white ones prevail Once more the velvet hat and the felt ones appear in large and picturesque forms. Black and white, or dark blue or a rich claret shade, go well together. The small hat with the stupendous buckle is a millinery feature to remem- ber, and the swan plumage cap in white and colors is another. Instead of copying the mlilitary uni- form closely, little details are permissi- bly chosen as foundations for a novelty. The khaki tunic pocket, for example, makes an excellent design for a bag in khaki suede. It is capacious and con- venient and a good autumn substitute for silk. BUTTONHOLE HINT. N making buttonholes in soft mus- lins it is a very good idea to rub a little paste, made of flour and water, on the wrong side. This will give a firm surface to work upon, orE. CHARMING GOWNS FOR INFORMAL DINNERS AT HOME touches becoming to most women. New styles in wrist bags of canteen silk are appearing. Even hatpins are remod- eled—larger heads on short pins. Some of the gay sllk sweaters are offering soft wool linings for fall comfort. Velvets grow in popularity both as a combination in afternoon frocks and | suitings. A S T Ao I ARG - = B Panne, chiffon, striped, jshop windows. One designer features checked, velvets of all sorts and in all |a window of purple velvet costumes the favorite shades appear in the hand- |trimmed with either ermine or white some gowns that adorn the smartest |fox and shading into wistaria. Chafing Dish a Household Need T was the college girl at her mid- . night spreads who, wishing to give feasts to some of her classmates, dis- covered the practicability of the chaf- ing dish. Busy with her studles and classes all day, she had little time to market or to prepare an elaborate supper. More often than not she had to do her mar- keting after class hours and prepare her supper while entertaining her guests. This worried her little because she could get things ready and talk to her friends at one time. ’ Now the chafing dish has asserted itself and is found in most well con- ducted homes. In small families it is often called into use at the breakfast or at the luncheon meal. It is more commonly used for informal suppers and after theater spreads. Bachelors who had little confidence in handling 2 gas or coal range find themselves equal to the chafing dish and this form of entertainment. It is always valuable when prepar- Ing a dainty dish for a convalescent or an invalid, because almost any dish can be had by this means .ina hurry and without mussing up a room. ‘Whether heated by alcohol or by elec- tricity, it is easily handled and kept clean. This is true of chafing dishes of copper, nickel and silver plate. In cooking on a chafing dish it is well to use high proof spirit because it gives more heat, burns without odor and proves less expensive. If you do not want to make the work any more diffi- cult than is necessary be sure to have the necessary ingredients and your measuring cups and spoons With your chafing dish on a table before your guests arrive. The dishes that may be prepared by this simple device are endless. They include toast, griddlecakes, fritters, meat, vegetable dishes, cheese dishes, fancy eggs and' many others. Here are four of the many recipes: Grilled Oysters.—Clean one pint of oysters and drain off all the liquor possible. Put the oysters in blazer and as fast as liquor flows from them remove with a spoon. So continue un=- til the oysters are plump. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add two table- spoonfuls butter and serve on small pieces of toast. Diced Lobsters.—Mix one and one- half cupfuls lobster meat. Cut in dice with two tablespoonfuls olive oil and one of vinegar. Melt three tablespoon- fuls butter, add four of tomato ketch- up and the diced lobster. Season with one-half teaspoonful mustard, one and one-half teaspoonfuls lemon juice, salt and cayenne. Serve as soon as thor- oughly heated. Creamed Crabs.—Remove the meat from one dozen hard shelled crabs. Cook four tablespoonfuls butter with one-half shallot, finely chopped, until yellow. Add four tablespoonfuls flour and pour on two cupfuls of cream gradually. Put in crab meat, one-half teaspoonful salt, one-fourth teaspoon- ful paprika, a slight grating of nutmeg and two teaspoonfuls of sherry wine. Curried Eggs.—Melt two tablespoon- fuls butter. Add two tablespoonfuls flour mixed with one-fourth teaspoon- ful salt. Season with one-half tea- spoonful curry powder and one-eighth teaspoonful paprika. Stir until well mixed; then pour on gradually one cup- ful milk. Add three hard boiled eggs, cut in eighths lengthwise, and reheat in sauce. Serve on toast. THAT EXERCISE 1.—Lie on the back with the hands at the sides, arms stretched full length; outline a sweeping circle, making it as large as you can possibly stretch your leg. Without resting the leg swing at least twenty circles and then stretch the right leg full length on the floor and repeat the exercise with the left leg. The next day increase the number of circles to twenty-filve and add five each day un- til the hundred mark is reached. When you can swing a hundred circles with each leg, raise both legs at once and swing circles alternately, yet in per- petual movement—that is, one toe is at the highest point when the other is pointed at the lowest side of the circle. This is not an easy thing to do, and the mind must be concentrated on the ex- ercise in order to secure a steady movement which will give results. This exercise is almed to reduce the hips, and the difference will be plainly visible in a week's time. Exercise 2.—Lie face downward on | MUCH DESIRED S front, with the chin and palms down. Take a long breath while counting seven, inhaling through the nose and holding the breath while lifting the full weight of the body once on the palms of the hands and toes. Now let the body down lightly upon the floor and exhale through the mouth while count- ing six. Rest in this position for a moment before taking a second lift, and this time try to raise the body twice while holding the breath. This will be difficult at first, and the patient need not be surprised if she becomes a little lame or stiff. This inconvenience will wear off about the third or fourth day. The exercise will reduce the hips. Exercise 3.—Stand full height with bands stretched above the head as far as possible, thumbs together and palms facing forward. Without bending the knees, bend forward at the waist until the tips of the fingers touch the floor. Do this five times each night and morn- ing until it can done without ap- parent effort. It will be found very dif- be the floor with the feet and knees to- gether and the hands side by side in ficult at first and will leave the limbs very stiff, but pay no attention to this LIMNESS and the pain will wear away In three or four days. Exercise 4.—Stand erect with heels and toes together. Now lift the right leg straight up without bending the knee until on a level with the right hand and touch the toe and finger to- gether while keeping the left leg abso- lutely stiff and the left arm down by the side. This is a very difficult ex- ercise and can be accomplished only by long and patlent practice., Reverse with the left foot and hand meeting. A very hot bath should follow, A HINT TO YOUNG MOTHERS. “Do sound a warning to young moth- ers about letting their tiny bables lie flat, gazing straight up at the sky in the glaring sunlight,” said one eld- erly matron. “Unless a baby is sitting up in its carriage the top should al- ways be over its face. It is a great wonder that more children aren’t en- tirely blind when we see how mothers ect protecting the infants' eyes. : - = < ART DESIGNS FOR MILADY'S TEA GOWNS s NEW FALL FROCKS FOR CHILDREN Tfll display of the new fall frocks for school children's wear is at- tracting much attention just now, One notices the clever way in which the predominating fashion features of a season are introduced in these petite frocks, and this season, according custom, they have adopted styles tak from the gowns and frocks of their older sisters, which make them wvery quaint and interesting. The full gathered or plaited skirts, the semifitted bodice, short or logs walsted; the high, close collar and long sleeves, all are given & place in the more or less modified forms in the clothes of the small girl The fashionable materials used for developing women's gowns are alse employed in making the replicas in: tended for the little folk. One jaunty loose coat was made of plain blue serge, while the plaid mas terial formed the full plaited lkl&l- The coat was made with & yoke, whicl was finished at the front with a round shaped tab, which crossed over from the right side to the left and fastened with a single button. The lower part of the sleeves was also made with & tab shape buttoning, holding the sleeve closely to the wrist. The fronts of the coat rounded away toward the bots tom, showing a blouse of white pique, The lower part of the coat, &t jhe fronts, had two small shaped inset pockets. There was a small turndown collar on the coat, over which fell & narrow collar of white pique which was attached to the blouse, Another smart little frock was made of shepherd's plald piped with green The frock was made with suspender effect, with two straps buttoned mcross the shoulders to a little short wi bodice. The skirt was made ith narrow box plaits. Another charming little frock was made of invisible striped serge. The long walst line was defined by a sash of navy blue silk. There were a collar and cuffs of plaited fine cream neL. There was a full plaited bodice attach- ed to a yoke, and the skirt was plait- ed, a box plait of the striped material, with the stripes running cross ox- tending from the yoke to the h af the skirt. There are many interesting little three plece frocks made of plain blue serge having guimpes of plaid or striped ellk or of linen in white natu- ral tones or some pale tone, One little frock of blue serge had & gulmpe and sieeves of linen in natural tones. The frock was made with lsose Jacket effect held in at the waist line by a belt of gobelin blue silk running through large eyelets. The belt was: fastened at the front by small round buttons. The turndown linen collar and turnback cuffs of the linen guimpe were ornamented in a hand embroidery design in blue, the same tone as the belt. “ The coats for the small girl are va- ried and interesting this year. Vel- veteens, corduroys, cheviots, zibeline mixtures and chinchilla cloths are the materials most In evidence, One model of corduroy was made with a semifitted short waisted bodice. To this short waisted bodice a full skirt was attached. The eolhfjlll cuffs were of gray astrakhan, Hats for children are picturesque and charming. They are all sizes and kinds, but velvet predominates. CARE OF THE SUNBURN girls tan as the burn dles out. impossible to avold it entirely, no mat- ter how much care is taken. The ten- face with a wide, droopy hat, but her hands and the front of her neck will burn just the same when the sun is very hot. It often burns right through a shirt waist, reproducing, with odd effect, the waist's design on the shoul- ders and back of the wearer. Sunburn is often extremely painful. In many cases, where a girl has been out in the sun practically all day, the skin blisters and causes very real suf- fering. It is a wise girl who knows how to care for her own sunburn, for she will save herself a good bit of pain by doctoring it at once. ‘When you return to the house after a day in the open and find your arms, neck and face all rose colored from the sun don't stop to question why, but start in treating it at once. The burn never hurts the first day, and some- A BIT of vanity is really inspiring. It teaches one to try to look one's best at all times. The girl who ap- proves even mildly of her own appear- ance is careful not to allow herself to run down, but keeps herself up to a certain mark which she has set for herself. If she looks in the gl one morning and finds her skin looking sal- low or her hair looking lifeless she sets to work repairing it at once. The girl with a certain amount of conceit is careful to buy only the clothes which make her appear at her best. Conse- quently, though she may not be a pret- ty girl at all, she always looks well. The overmodest girl, on the contrary, never takes the pains to study her own good points. She makes no endeavor to enter the lists for beauty, but lets herself go, buying the clothes that are at hand, without ascertaining whether they bring out the best or the worst in her appear<nce, Even a girl who is Impossibly plain In face and figure need not and should not be without a spark of vanity, be- cause if she hns enough concelt she will make herself attractive in other ways than in her appearance. One sees many, many Instances where a girl without a vestige of beauty has far greater popularity with men and wom- Even if the sun isn't shining it is a bard straln on the eyes to face the sky.” en than her sister, who is lovyel look upon. i ' s \ HE girl who does much out of door exercising or tennis finds herself growing rapidly sunburnt, and some It is nis girl, for instance, may protect her times it does not the second day, you will certainly get it the third ufi= less you are very careful. Don't until the skin begins to itch and before you put on a cream, but at first sign of rose color, where wi usually 1is, start your doctoring &f] once. Cocoa butter is excellent to take th sting out of sunburn, and witch hi cream is another fine emollient. either one in well at the first appears ance of the burn and then again the next day and you will not be bothi |so much by the pain and itch. If you are well burned and do not ats tend to the skin at once you will fin that the smart and sting once b are almost impossible to stop. Al the flesh has begun to prickle and you will probably plle on creams, b nothing does very much good unuH h burn has worn itself out. The"t: remedies mentioned may help to rel the pain, but they will not stop it less applied the first day. The way to treat sunburn is to start wi at once if you do not wish to suffer, The Value of Vanity . There 15 no doubt at all that & little vanity does more to bring qut & girl's best than all the modesty world. This does not mean thi should let ourselves grow puffed silly with conceit. After all weening conceit is certainly a inferior iIntelligence, for no one common sense would ever allow self to become foolishly vain, There are always scores of oth more intelligent, more beautiful, fascinating than we are If we - with impartial eyes. To be the m accomplished and wonderful woman in the world is quite impossible, except I one’s own mind, for at least & b other contestants would claim the title. So, no matter how pretty or tractive a girl may be, she would silly to become Inflated Over charms. In fact, no one With ol to intelligence is ever overconcelted. Without a spark of vanity she lose her looks and her charms, but little spark of conceit will keep her &P to the mark, will keep alive her nf est In herself and others and will mpke] her far more attractive In every :‘ Vanity in the proper proportions work wonders in the weaker sex. | every one of us should have a mo share. The Greek motto, “Nothing - much,” will keep u: from being sufferable