New Britain Herald Newspaper, March 26, 1915, Page 4

A 2 ! s ' s ! Fashion ‘Survived From Spring’s ! Exhibitions Will Be Standardized §erge Is Reigning Material for Tailored Suits Its Are Flaring and Couturiers Are Mak- i ‘ ing Short Jupons. “é Cordoba Carles in New &fYork Tribune.) i e serge is the reigning ma- tailored suits. No one seeks its supremacy, whether a cos- Of it is enlivened with gold or PR, braid touched here and there ! /‘dull red, or carries black braid _brolderles. Its strogg position imong the fashions of the moment Proves conclusively that tan gebardine | J tailor-mades have enjoyed their brief | very short jupons. Popularity, Skirts of tailored suits are flaring. Even when pleated they look full, and with a single exception—Callot—all .of the great couturiers are making > Six inches from the ground is the general average. If i-a- girl-has.a perfect-pair of ankles she gets along with an inch less. The ankles would show rather clearly even if the skirt were longer, for many a broad hem is in self-colored chiffon, as in a blue serge one-piece dress by Lucile.” Herc a cluster; of pleats is inserted into the sides of the skirt, whose deep hem is headed with black soutache which elsewhere garnishes the costume. The idea of the trans- parent hem is repeated in a golden brown faille whose skirt is also sev- eral times encircled with narrow bands of side-pleated silk. MORROW fler™ White, t, the Storm 't ORGAN o |Q¢ v INS° *Hartford ffonday, March 29 Friday, Satur- Present With Arthur ns.) IN 25 YEARS RIAL” "2c o m Seats Friday. HEATER [Fwice Daily. | Players. N EAST . 10, 20, 30, 6oc. .;’l); | Fashions l all new fash- v B fokr with ex- | skirts. and glazed linen collars. are seen ta dresses. B [y _colored heels are hParis. on the Witeimoire are often ckets. These transparent bands, which serve as trimming on this season’s models, are decidedly new, as are also milliner's folds and self pipings. These have superseded hemstitching and' pieot edges, which have served as a finish,to gowns for so many sea- sons, . ‘Jackets “Hip Length and Military in SR Style, Jackets are hip.length, show an in- clination to indicate the walst line and are .decidedly’ military ' in style, espe- clally \in'the application; of trimmings and in the shape of thefr collars. Bol- erog and coatees are innumerable. High-belted coats have utterly. gone out., Sleeves are set in without gath- ers and all of them reach the wrists. Afternoon’ frocks were rnever more alluring. In blue chiffon are many pretty models having skirts:consisting of layer upon layer of gauze mounted upon a silk under-dress, below which the transparency invariably drops. A great many of the bodices—always a maze of ¢hiffon layers—are cut straight across the chest and'a few are deeply rounded:at front, for/ only occasionally is one’ decollete at back. Unless Callot, who always keeps to elbow sleeves for afternoon costumes, is the author of a model, its arm-cov- erings extend well over tne thands. Particularly good is the transparent sleeve of a taffeta and‘ chiffon .frock in dark blue. Set wthout fulness into their arm-eyes, these sleeves gradually attain, below the elbows, a Iittle, additional, width, which at the wrists is' gathered into a frill coming below. a narrow. band in taf- feta duplicating another placed high- er up.,’ : !Collars .are high and have buttons 'which: fasten,*or may be fastened, closely about the throat, although many of them are worn loosely, if they happen to be more becoming that way. Collars and cuffs in col- ored handkerchief linen lend a fetch- ing air to many silk frocks. They are also found on chiffon, a notable case beng a white blouse by Jenny. This carries a high-rolling, blue linen . for Theatre -éoers and Wo men Reade — ploit the cut-in-one” or kimono idea. Sleeves are nearly always set in. Among fabrics are many decidedly j mew shades. In gray there seem to be | enidless tones, but almost .as much may be said of the variations in Combinations of hues, like gray butter-color, are in good taste fo ternoon costumes. The white range in- cludes cream, oyster, palest gray and anything except chalk. That | pallid shade is employed only for col- lars, cuffs and waistcoats. Very striking magpic effects are found in | broadly striped silks, but they are not | more- strking than are the pompa- dour patterns nor certain of the fig- | ured taffetas. These latter patterns | are imade up with plain silks. Foulards i showing dots set very, very far apart | are the grande chic in that material. Jenny Models Most Popular. In constdering the salient features | of the models from the leading Par | slan houses, it must be admitted that the creations of Jenny, who has of | late attained great popularity, are most important. She introduces light-colored coatees with dark skirts | makes a frock's upper portion—the | part from the shoulders to the hips— | of satin and the rest of net or lace, and uses the diagonal line from the throat to the armpit in developing bodices. * "Paquin’s decidedly military finds vehicles of expression in a striped soft ribbon so strongly re- sembling braid that it is easily m taken for it, and in the use of dull red upon dark blue serge. Paquin, who startled everybody by combining linen and satin, has launched a still more | ‘startling idea in a fuschia shaded taf- | feta frock. Its purple skirt faced with cerise, dips deeply at either and these points are weighed with roses attached to the facing and only showing as the wearer walks. At | front and back the skirt is quite short. | Paquin still makes the pannier, looped with either ribbon or roses, and has a penchant’for bodices deeply V’d up- on the hips at front-center. Callot's skirts are the only ones sug- gesting scantiness or a tendency tow- ard draped effects. Her best creations are elaborate coat-wraps, and on | some of these she has stetched/ her love for roses to the extreme by using them in rows trailing from the shoul- ders over the sleeves to below the cl- bows. Cheruit is rather Quakerish subdued this season. She is using, a great deal of gray. Her skirts show tlers of five deep tucks'and she tends decidedly to stiff cuffs and to collars making a deep line over the shoulders. She runs the gamut from a bust-deep | collar in self-material on a shot silk frock, to a chiffon cape-collar falling to the waist line. Drecoll's skirts dip at front and are raised at the sides, as are Lelong’s. His suits are severely military, and his jackets seem shorter than those from other houses. A most successful effort in blue voile has a white taffeta jacket embroidered in dark blue and a dark blue voile girdle, self-shade embroidered. That is his way of bringing the skirt and ket of a suit into complete harmony. A long point- ed cuff in voile inserted in the sleeves is another of Drecoll's individualities. In a second exceptional model cream lace and black net ruffles are com- bined. Tulle Ruffles Worth’s Contrbution. Worth makes tulle ruffies stand out taste and collar, flaring above a flat one in white chiffon, buttoning under the chin and running below it down a slde of either front to ultimately, but- ton tab-fashion, an inch or so ‘above the” walst “line. Flat cuffs, partly banded with chiffon, are in blue linen, - Linen as a trimming for mar- quisette is a decidedly new feature among late models. A striking ex- ample of tais use of the sheer, dainty fabric, is seen in a lemon mar- quisette frock whose skirt and blouse are trimmed lightly but effectively with narrow ruffles in white linen piped with lemon. Buttons are more than ever pop- ular. Many sizes in unusual shapes are seen, but ball types lead. and in single or double rows they trim in- numerable’ models from representa- tive houses, especially the creations of Doucet, Worth and Lucile. Travelling wraps of serge are of three-quarter length. Notably smart models are in black and white check and show a third tone, poppy red or emerald green, in collar and cuffs and pocket flaps. Separate wraps for afternoons, usually ‘in satin or taffeta preferably black, are circular cut and suspend from a yoke. of greater or less depth. The yoke may cross the figure at the shoulders or below the bust. In a few cases the upper half of the garment fits the shoulders smoothly and gradually ac- quires flare on its way to the hips, where the lower portion of the wrap 18 attached as a cord-headed circular flounce,” much deeper at sides and back than at front. Hvening Wraps of Severe Simplicity. Severe simplicity distinguishes | evening wraps., They are exceeding- 1y full and owe much of their beauty to their materials. An exquisite Creation in mauve-lined pink silk by Cheruit is rivallea by a reversible model in deep ivory and coral from wallot. This wrap is mysteriously caught up toward the neck :to form sleeves, which have slits through swhich the arms are thrust, and is an exception to the geheral rule in arm ‘coverinss. For wraps no longer ex- by edging them with a slender silver cord. The ruffles are on a lavender satin and tulle gown whose hodice is embroidered with lavender and whose skirt carries bead embroidered bands on one of which a sapphire note is in- | troduced in the form of an ornament. On Worth gowns colored beading is taking the place of rhinestones to a great extent. ‘At that house they are using stiff grosgrains, a silk which may be looked for in large quantities among next autumn’s models. Doucet still shows many ruffles, and in conmection with a five-tier flounced skirt has brought out a bodice with an outside applied vest spreading across the shoulders and bust, and running to a sharp point below the waist, Georgette is using all manner of crossed effects. She has launched one of the most popular of this season's three-plece costumes. HARVEY AND SMITH GOOD ENTERTAINERS ! Among popular numbers at Keeney's this week, is the act of Harvey | and Smith, song and conversation en- tertainers of marked ability. They are presenting a pianologue of excep- tional merit and their work deserves the approbation of the theater-going public. They are well received every day, liberal applause testifying to the appreciation of the audience. They | are good singers and they also have a line of patter that goes hig. Miss Harvey is a dainty comedienne and Billy Smith, her partner is also 1 skilled entertainer. Mr. Smith is al native of Hartford and has several persona] friends in this city, The best yet, that is the unanimous verdict of the patrons concerning the act of Captain Betts and his troupe of educated seal, This is an act im- possible of description as one cannot write concerning it and at the same time give proper credit to (he lions of the sea and their trainer. The seals | too. | come feats. They have a great deal of in- telligence and the balancing, juggling | instruments | and playing of musical which they introduce is simply won- derful. Every lover of the novel in vau- deville should see this act. 1In itself it is worth more. than the admission price charged for the entire show. Lucere and Lucere are billed a “pair of real comedy entertainer: And they live up to that distinction The audience gets a lot of real wholesome amusement out of their work and they appreciate it immense- 1y. The Great Celest does a number of sational things on a swinging wire. is act is of a style entirely different from other wire walking specialties that have been presented here and it is winning approval daily The Three Miltons have as are first class singers and all-around entertaine: The motion’ picture program for tonight will be up to the Keeney standard of general excellence, ALL SHOULD SEE . “MAN FROM HOME” “The Man From Home" bresented at the Lyceum this evening | nd on Saturday afternoon the final | inatinee performance of the week will | be given. Those who have not vet | seen this popular play have | riissed a pleasing and delightful | ¢ntertainment. Tt is beautifully | staged and from an artistic standpoiat | alone is well worth seeing. | “The Tiscape” will be the next at- traction and in it the management cffers one of the strongest dramatic Lills that has been given the stage in vears. Tt is one of the latest produc- tions from the pen of Paul Arm- strong, one of the authors of “Via Wireless” and other very popular | stage successes. Armstrong is a ! zifted playwright ana in “The Escape” has constructea an in- tensely interesting play, containing thrilling and startling incidents of life with which the general run of | citizens seldom come in conact. The parts are exceptionally fine and afford ; the opportunity of seeing the Playvers in characters admirably adapted to their talents. The career of. Miss Joyce, the principal in the action, 18 followed closely and interest increases every moment and durlng the most cxeiting moments the audience 1s held by the tense situation, Catherine Cal- vert played a long Rfoaaway engage- ment in this attraction ana Miss Anne MacDonald, formerly of the Lyceum Players, was with her In the original company. On Good Friday afternoon a special matinee presentatfon will be given. will be BEAUTIFUL SCENES | IN FOX PICTURES Today ushers in another Fox pro- duction extraordinary in the first screen presentation of “From the Valley of the Missing,” Dby Grace Miller White at Fo Her “From ihe Valley of the M ng'” and “Tess of the Storm Country, were both huge and instantaneous s ceesses. “¥rom the Valley of the M ing” is casily her most powerful work, but she declares that the visualization of her most succes novel ‘far out- ips the book in force and power. a wonderful magnificent,” she exclaimed in a recent interview “al- though I createq the people that move in the picture T felt quite awe- stricken at some of the more sombre scenes. So moved in fact was Miss at a private showing of ‘The Valley of the Missing, that she burst into tears at the “big scene” of the play. Miss White admits that she was at first adverse to having her book made into a motion picture: but the magnitude of the William Fox produc- tien, which includes 500 scenes, 1,000 people, a real county fair in full blast, scene of the river, a thrilling yacht collision and a score of other big and thrilling features, soon won her oy er. Harold Brimecomb’s yacht, speed- ing up the Hudson, stops short with a grating, grinding sound. Out of the fog looms the black outline of a hig Dagge. The Yacht grazeds the hulk. Mrs. Brimecomb in her cabin, rushes to a porthole alarmed at the sudden | shock. The porthole faces a window of the barge. As the two apertures come opposite cach other, Mrs. Brime- comb finds suddenly thrust into her stateroom from the barge, the tiny form of an infant. A woman's voice from the barge wails: “Take him, 1ady, and take good care of him, his Pop nigh killed him.” The Brime- combs adopt the waif. and the out- makes a screen story at once absorbing and thrilling. “CALL OF THE NORTH" IS THRILLING PLAY The final performances of “Way Down_East,” in which the Hartford Peli Players are appearing this woek will be given Saturday. Beginning Monday afternoon the players will Robert Fdeson’s great success, Call of the North,” a drama of the far northwest in which thrilling | sitvations and rapid developments in rapid successior The story of ‘“The (g Nerth” contains all the elements of the dramatic—Ilove, mystery, adven- ture, plotting. treachery and a dash of ccmedy. The story of the play re- volves about the adventures of one Ned Trent, “free trader,” who has been caught poaching on the. pre- serves of the Hudson Bay company and the third time he is set free in hundred miles of wilderness with follow 11 of the do a number of seemingly impossible J provisions for only one day ang no an enter- | taining song and dance number, They | ! sugar. rifle or knife, If hunger and the | wild beasts bail to kill him, Me-En- Gan, the factor's head Indian, sees that he does not return. Trent sees that his only chance for life is to get ! a rifle. He makes love to the factor's daughter in order to get her to steal | the precious firearm for him, and suc- | cecds only too well, for he finds that he really loves the girl and he cannot accept her sacrifice, which might en- | tail her death She presses her |‘ifle] upon him, however, and he leaves the | camp, only to be overtaken in the woods, where he escapes again after a thrilling fight with Rand, the villain of the piece. He is recaptured ilntl: brought back to the company’s coun- | cil Toom, where he stands trial for his | life. The remainder of ihc story how the real -owner of the rifle is found and the climax wiich occurs when Trent finds that the father of the girl he .loves killed nis father, must be left to those who have not yet seen the play. A Menu for Tomorrow [oal Breakfast. Fruit Sugar and Cream Bread Sauce Saute Cereal Bggs in Potatoes Biscuits Lunch Tomato Soup Baked Cus Drop Coffee Vegetable Soup Baked [Ifish Mashed Potatoes Asparagus Tips on Toast Cold Slaw Wafers Cheese Prune Jelly Coffee. gs- in Bread Sauc Slice one sixed Spanish onion, pour boil- ing water over it and let stand for five minutes, then drain and cover with two cupfuls of milk; add half o dozen cloves and one-quarter of a tecaspoonful or salt and simmer for half an hour. Rub through a sieve, pressing through as much of the onion as possible. In a saucepan put one heaping tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour, and | when melted and mixed add the milk and stir until smooth. Add one half a cupful of stale bread crumbs and season with salt, white pepper and a very little powdered mace. Sim- mer for five minutes and turn into a | baking dish. Slip in carefully six cggs, dust with salt and pepper and put in a very hot oven until the eggs are set. Prune Jelly. prunes, two of sugar, two of powdered water, one inch rind of half a Eg good Half a pound of good heaping heaping tablespoonfuls gelatine, one cupful of of cinnamon stick, lemon, one ounce of almonds, half a cupful of whipped cream, onec liquor glassful of cherry brandy, half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Wash the prunes and allow them to soak for one hour in the cold water. Then put both into an enameled saucepan, add (hinly _peeled, cinnamon stick, ana " Stew until quite tender, then strain off the prunes through a stones, tablespoonfuls { (o I from the prunes into a saucepan, add the brandy and gelatine and carefully into {unti] { mold with cold water | with shredded. fill up with the prune mix- ture, with lemon rind |”“\,,,N, ]lcr. Opening days at this store arc days of great interest tor they tell oun of our cfforts in getting together the greatest stock of fine wearing apparel for man. woman and child that we have ever had. Remember this open- ing news comes from HARTVORD'S LEAD- ING CREDIT STORE —the store that hun- dreds of people arc making thejr headquarters for the buying of the most stylish garments with no money at #ll but simply two words—CHARGE 1T, But its not our famous charge system that we are to enlighten you on in this ady,—IT'S THY OPENING SPRING DISPLAYS, And summing it up briefly means everything for every member of the family, of a style and quality that wins praise and approval. Men Women Folks Folks Find Find AVAVAVA YAAYAYAYAYA'AYA A o LR Tl SUITS COATS MILLINERY WAISTS PETTICOATS CORSETS SHOES FEATHERS UMBRELLAS (EVERYTHING) SUTTS COATS SHIRTS UNDERWEATR HATS COLLARS UMBRELLAS CANES SHOES (EVERYTHING) THECAESAR N{ISCH STORE 687—-6983 MAIN STREET HARTFORD. How Much Alike We Are “I used to think I was different from other girls, but I'm coming to the conclusion that we are all very much alike after all.” So writes a dear letter friend of mine, in philosophic And now let me tell you somethin® remarkable, She Tust fancy her having reached that sonciusion so soon. Why arc just beginning to glimpse it ten ¥ears later The feeling that one is different, that many thought and feelings are unigue. or at least very rare, is one of the hall marks of youth e on only many sixteen'! of of one's A Unique sixperience Mmost Impossible, As one’s experience grows broader, and onc ihere are in the world, and how many (here have pect that perhaps among il these there may be some experiences. And as one gruws still oider, onc hegins to doubt thought or experience is possible, One of the experiences which is most commonly taken for unique by e astonished young person wno first undetgoes it, is that sensation that sudl - deniy comes over one when one is doing saying perfectly simpla thing or having donc or said just thesame thing somewhere, sometime before. T can remember when T first had thesc surprised was, and hew sure that T was having some Was Anyone Ever S0 Much in Love! Love is another cxperzence which the voi u itself. Of course, the voung person in love been in 4ove, but he is sure that they ne The older one grows, the ties of human nature! One cxperience which has particular] vrite about the foibles of someane I know known friend mileg : T will receive my neighbor. S0 fundamentally realizes how one many begins who have ha if people to sue imila unique been a or some fashes chic I rarc experience thinks zew that is unique have to other the fun people he sim er felt quite same as more ore realizes the amental lard impressed thig personall letter this and ' way saying: “y about nature! similar is human The Socicry Nor are there such wid -+ differences between as we are in the habit of thinking. The difference I believe with all my heart that they are outwei The society leader thinks of her maid he tures of another ¢ I the veil covld be lifted could sce things just ax they moment. | startled not by the difference, “For the Colonel's Laudy and Are sisters under the skir Horace Walpole once said “If angel them.” Can't you just imagine angeis vanities of class and superiority-—we them as a flock of sparrows to us The differences between the commonest crudest and the most cultured of us, how that is itself so infinitely bettc: feals ready to echo Wordsworth “The best of what Just God forgive.” Her Washerwoman Alike of diff Leader and people rent th classes bt d by the likene or washerwoman her ¢ believe cren- from es und she are for but he would he by the likeness, Julia O'Grad how we laugh laughin must strutting much divert litfle to AL our vho probably seem a alike and ) t small must than the bes Whet e 1l mo the the lcet the to Tower it one we do and are and rub the Crack the and add Higuiad liquid. sieve kernels it the blanch to the the pulp. P | r-———m. s ; ——— l Household Notes * beans Hulled corn 1= much it is obtainable nter the ordi can 1e and canned « better, however, if dissolve made of ary white Strain this occasionally out ring md decorate it blanched and over the the pulp and almost cold. fiv stir Rinse 4 small Carry a book in your ping bag and in it make a all garments woin diffor. ent widths for making various gap. in fact, all informath cded to ussist in Wuying bargaiis unexpectedly come across shop. the almonds list of the sizes of P by then turn out when firm whipped with Serve sweetened and ilia, in the cen ents e cream, ot th the when them. van you