Evening Star Newspaper, October 24, 1937, Page 23

They should have called it i gy Imagine & state which Is three states in one . which _begns i the clouds of Eastern America's highest mountains, which ends At the ma- Jestic Mississippi. And__ between and le’ Man River third section which is bluegrass land, home of Jackson and Davy Crockett, place ©of the Parthenon and history. Link up the Mississippi and the Blue Grass and the mountains with broad hizhways. add lakes and streams, and fish and game. Add flowers and forests, add modern cities and quaint villages Put this together and you have a limpse of nature's wonderland—and ‘ennessee. And having caught a glimpse, you'll want to see it all and soon . . . ‘Write now for gand Thrills It Tennessee's Wonder- land. And it's Free. rhododendron think of & “Trails of A Thou- is your guide to L 4o - Room 402 DEPARTMENT OF CONSERVATION gmsw o TENNESSEE | promesamn “Anchor Line's ’s.s. ‘o BERMUDA 2 From 8 DAYS .. 18259, /°r, to NASSAU and HAVANA DEC. 24th* JAN. 15th APR. 6th JAN. 5th MAR. 25th APR. 15th* in Nassau: 24 glorious hours night included. *Christmas uises permit 35 hours ashore in Havana (2 nights). The Travele Shenandoah By JACQUES FUTRELLE, Jr. RAVEL to Europe, bright goal I of average Americans since the war and all the more alluring now with the new super-luxury liners, cannot begin to match the combined scenic and pocket-book ap- peal of one of the newest United States national parks—Shenandoah, in Vir- ginia. The past season demonstrated the fact forcefully, and a comparison of travel figures is rather startling to TRAVEL. AMSHIP TIC over all lines Travel Department MERICAN. EXPRESS COMPANY ia JAN. 15— 32 DAYS From New York $310.4: (Less than $10 per Day!) To Barbados RIO DE JANEIRO FOR 5 DAYS Grenada ® Venezuela ® Jamaica The perfect one-month cruise... to Rio...the newest, most glam- orous cruise-climax of the year! YOUR TRAVEL AGENT or 1ith and New York Ave. N.W. Washington, D. C. National 4235 TRANS d the 12 DAYS.$12250,, f7, to BERMUDA, KINGSTON (1amaica), HAVANA JAN. 29th FEB. 26th 12th MAR. 12th in Bermuda. A night and Ki ton. A night and day- (25 hrs.). Direct to No tenders necessary. Daylight daylight di light day dock at all ports At Bermuds, Kingston and Havana, special shore excursions st moderste expene. SEE YOUR OWN AUTHORIZED TRAVEL AGENT for iptive folder, or ANCHO 1723 Walnute Street Philadelphia, Pa. Empress-Britain 728 Day WORLD CRUISE Featuring EGYPT - INDIA - BALI AUSTRALIA NEW ZEALAND THE ROUTE MADEIRA GIBRALTAR ALGERIA MONACO FRANCE TALY GREECE PALESTINE EGYPT INDIA CEYLON STRAITS SIAM HONG KONG PHILIPPINES JAVA BALI AUSTRALIA NEW ZEALAND Fil HAWAN CALIFORNIA PANAMA From New York, January 8, 1938 Let the famous Empress show you the world over which she rules as queen ship Greatest Travel System.” Throughout this luxurious earth-girdling voyage, Canadian representatives will be waiting make your way smooth. Particularly in the British port of Hong Kong, where Empresses have been known for generations, and in Australia, New Zea- land and Fiji, regularly served by Canadian Pacific lines, you will welcome the feeling of security and confidence which the famous Empress on her own **home waves” can give! Fare Pacific: C. E. Phelps, General National Parks of the East, as Well as the West, Fill Vacation Needs of Millions, With from S},M up (less thaw $18 per.day). De- tails from YOUR TRAVEL AGENT or Canadian THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. T, r’s Notebook Most Popular. those who think that nobody ever sees America—that it just isn’t done—and that 1 person in every 10 goes to Eu- rope. Europe measures its tourists from America in terms of tens of thou- sands; individual national parks reg- ister visitors in units of hundreds of thousands, and only a few fall below the 100,000 mark. E Eastbound trans-Atlantic figures for 1937, when ships sailed with fewer vacant accommodations than in any recent year, have not been gauged, but it*is doubtful if the total will be more than 20 per cent higher than in 1936. Last year about 70,200 Ameri- cans obtained passports or renewals with pleasure as the objective. Of the total passports issued for business and sundry reasons as well as pleasure, 78 per cent were for travel in Europe. But 1,041,204 vacationists visited Shenandoah Park during the travel year that ended September 30. - JT TOOK thé West, with its richly colored and spectacular canyons and. peaks, its largest concentration of geysers in the world, to dramatize the national park idea. America began to be park conscious as early as 1917, when the National Park Service took them over, but in that year only 488,268 persons vsited the 14 parks then operated by the Government. By 1927 the figure neared the 3,000,000 mark; the count was 2,797,840. In the 1937 .travel season more than 15,000,000 persons visited national parks and monuments, The Federal domain dedicated to recreation—whether simply for sight- seeing or camping beneath the stars or enjoying the comforts of a hotel- home in the picturesque lodges oper- ated as a part of the park service— has increased rapidly in the last few years. Parks now number 26, national monument areas-dot the map, the 12 military parks and cemeteries are cen- tered in the East, there are 10 battle- field sites under park service jurisdic- tion and 8 miscellaneous monu- ments, including the Lincoln Memo- rial and Washington Monument. Each drew its share of Americans, and some travelers from foreign lands, to bring the count of visitors to one to every | eight Americans. Last year the figure was 1 to every 14, 7 THE Park Service's acting director, A. E. Demaray, declines to esti- mate the number of Americans who will enjoy the parks next year. He reported to Secretary Ickes: “There is @pparently no limit to next year's potentional national park travel. * * ¢ Every one of this year's visitors is enthusiastic about our parks and when the testimony of eyewitnesses is taken back to millions of homes, there are additional millions of park | enthusiasts and travelers created. New facilities are being provided and this year's record has only been made to be broken.” HE scenic West monopolized park travel for years, and only com- paratively recently have the three great parks of the East become gen- erally known. Shenandoah led all| others as a travel magnet this year, | and second was Great Smokies in North Carolina and Tennessee. While not yet as glamorized nor equipped with the best in tourist lodge facili- | ties, Smoky Mountains exceeded in | popularity the world-known Yellow- stone, drawing an estimated 727.000 | against 499.242 for Yellowstone, sec- | ond ranking park of the West. Rocky | Mountain Park in Colorado was first | in the Western area, with 651,899 vis- itore. Acadia National Park, in Maine, leading some of the more famous TRAVEL. GOLDEN COUNTRY BARS TRAVELERS Fortunes Lie Cached Darien Indian Domain Near Panama Canal. This is the third of & series of stories The Star travel page will run on oddities encountered by William La Varre, fellow of the Royal Geo- graphic Society, in knocking about the world. ‘“Seeing’s believing” is this globe trotter’s answer to stay- at-home doubters, and he has pic- tures to support his words. in BY WILLIAM LA VARRE. There are great caches of gold buried in the mountain highlands less than two hours by airplane from the Pan- ama Canal. There are many places in the world where primitive people may have used and hidden gold, and where gold can be obtained by modern treas- ure hunters, but in Southern Darien the Chakoi treasure caches are real and not theoretical or legendary. Any man who gets into that country will see it. But it is not a vacation which I recommend to tourists who like com- fort or safety. The Darien Indians guard their country now without com- promise. They will step suddenly in front of you, no matter from what di- rection you try to gain the interior, and, looking at you from Behind razor- edged spears, ask you in gutteral Span- ish, “Who comes?” No matter what you answer, the savage who has chal- lenged you will say “Gol Go quickly— and do not return!” Years ago some treasure hunters played a trick on the Indians of Darien They called themselves doc- tors, tay. d_the Chakois into allow- ing them to enter the interior. They would cure the people of sickness, they would . give them quinine and other medicines, they promised. But what they did was to-find out where the Chakois had their community graves. At night they dug them up and es- caped with quite § haul of gold. So a white man's word is not taken literally any more in Darien. The Chakoi In- dians do not like people who dig up their ancestors’ graves. Most Practical Metal. As with most primitive people the use of gold by the natives of Darien does not mean that they worship this yellow metal. It is not something they want to cash-in on. If copper were as lasting, as easily worked, and did not tarnish, most primitive people would have used it rather than gold. Copper was much more plentiful. But after experimenting with all the metals which they were able to get from river beds or mountain veins, the Chakois parks of the West, drew 383,036 visi- tors, exceeding Sequoia, Mount Rainier and Zion-Bryce Canyon. Yosemite was close behind popular Yellowstone. For the first year, records were kept for the Boulder Dam recreational area, which is being developed into a lake resort, With tourist facilities concentrated at convenient points to permit some degree of wildness to remain along its extensive shore. Nearly 390,000 tourists visited the area from April 1 to September 30. OCTOBER 24, saw that only one metal could be easily molded, hammered or tooled. Only one metal never tarnished. They wanted something they could use to create ornaments and religious objects and this yellow metal seemed better than anything else. There was a White metal, silver, which they had experi- mented with, but it tarnished, turned almost black once it was put on a shelf or in a tomb. Their craftsmen pre- ferred the untarnishing yellow metal. When & Darien high chief died the tribe made, out of the yellow metal, & reproduction of a life-size skeleton. Gold skeleton and the chief’s body were entombed together, but as a last- ing contact with the departed man each of his relatives had a miniature of the big skeleton, made also of gold, and wore it on all ceremonial occa- sions, suspended from & neck cord. These small skeletons, or huacas, are to be found in every Indian village. When a man dies the huacas of all his previ- ously deceased relatives are buried with him. Thus the graves of Darien are veritable gold mines. They con- tain, also, gold urns, gold ceremonial spear heads and personal jewelry in great abundance when the interred body is that of an important chief. Religious Barrier. But now that the Chakois know what white men will be up to, no mat- ter under what name they seek to dis- guise their visits, no stranger has been able to enter the deep Darien interior for the last 10 years. We gained ac- cess to two of their frontier villages, their outposts, through which they transact whatever business they want to do with the white man or the out- side world, but we were not allowed to go farther, If we could have traded bright cloth for all the gold we saw in those first two villages we would not have had to travel much farther any- where. We could have ‘rested on our profits for several years. Their golden ornaments, however, were not things which could be bought. ‘They did not represent wealth to their owners; they were bound to them by religious beliefs, and tribal legends. A man was not rich materially just be- cause his house was full of gold. He still worked for food and primitive comforts, worked just as hard as a younger man who had only a few gold huacas. To sell tribal ornaments for personal profit is not a Chakoi's phil- osophy. ‘When Vasco Balboa crossed over the mountains of the Darien Isthmus in 1513 he had as an aseistant one Fran- cisco Pizzaro. Balboa obtained great booty from the Indians, but he thought that his discovery from a Darien mountain top, of the “Great South Sea,” the Pacific, was enough to earn him a greater fortune from the Span- ish throne. He guessed wrong. All he got from King Terdinand was the empty title of admiral of .the Pacific, while his assistant Pizzaro “pushed on | inland to win the greatest gold cache the new world has ever known. To Spain went ships loaded with gold from Darien and Peru. But the Darien Indians made new ornaments to replace those lost. Today the Span- iard and the paler faced Norte Amer- icano, or “White Man,” is indelibly etched in their legends and memory as a despoiler of their ancestral homes, and they will have nothing more t do with strangers. Keep out! is their command. Visitors to Panama City may see many huacas and examples of Darien gold craftsmanship, handed down to modern families from ancient Congquistador amcestors, but the in- terior of Darien today is closed terri- tory. No tourist and no explorer is allowed to enter the interior. (Copyright, 1937.) TRAVEL. TRAVEL. of “The World's Pacific’s own local to greet you and Agent, 14th and New York Ave. N.W., Wash., D. C.- National 4235, Canadiane Fucific THE WORLD'S GREATEST TRAVEL SYSTEM ports; is your ideal pley tranquil leisure. Her staft Bahames . . . *IT COSTS LESS THAN $10 A DAY TO TAKE A Carinithid SEA LARK CRUISE NOW 3 GALA CRUISES TO NASSAU AND HAVANA NOV.3...NOV.13...NOV. 24 The Cirinthia, at bome in eighty-edd of the werld's far hip, adept t blending fun and e cruise ex- ports, speaking your language. "Sea Larks” - give you & day in the yeer ‘round smart two nights and & day in Havans at its gayest. Book mow for best selection of space. No passports required. * Carinthia Peatures: Racquets Court.. Gym Sun Deck for Sports ‘Two Promenade Decks Indeer & Outdoer Pools Free Dancing Classes Two Orchestras . . . Movies . . Professional Artists . . Cocktail Trie 9 pAYS From 85 The 1938 AQUITANIA Cruise De Luxe to SOUTH AMERICA and the WEST INDIES SAILING FROM NEW YORK FESRUARY 17, TO NASSAU, PANAMA, LA GUAIRA, TRINIDAD, BAHIA, RIO DE JANEIRO, BARBADOS, BERMUDA 33 DAYS. .. $4I5 vp A COMPLETE PROGRAM ©OF 21 OTHER WINTER CRUISES Waest Indies Nawev Nessow Nowoy, Hovene Nassou in the Cariot - $75, one wt Cruives Yo ! ::.'l o c"g:;: o AB INQUIRE ABO ;Hé/}{ WASHINGTON. D. C- JNARD ITE STAR R K THE CUNARD WHITE STARJ oR ouR OWN LOCAL IR{cT shrough March 26 o aver Hrom $95- NT DEFERRED "s’r’fifl' 7775 STEAMSHIPS. YR WEST INDIES from New York DECEMBER 23 on the SATURNIA BOOK EARLY for this annual holi- day cruiseevent 13 DAYS 170. “success”, always a Lido headliner! Four of the most popular pleasure ports . . . plus “Southern Route™ splendor, meals, atmosphere, enter- tainment . . . and Lido life at sea! TO0 KINGSTON CRISTOBAL HAVANA NASSAU . always a Apply to your TRAVEL AGENT or 1601 Walnut St., Philadelphia ITALIAN LINE 1937—PART ONE. INDOOR FOOT BALL FEATURE OF RESORT Atlantic City's Audience Watches From Upholstered Seats, in Evening Clothes. ATLANTIC CITY, October 23.— With the foot ball season in full swing, Atlantic City has once again become the rendezvous for the post-game celebrations and enter- tainments. While Atlantic City itself does not have any college or university, it fre- quently is the site of some of the traditional grid battles. The Munici- pal Convention Hall, housing the only full-sized indoor foot ball fleld in the country, gives a riew twist to the Fall sport. Here An audience of 15,000, frequently attired in dress clothes, may sit in the comfort of upholstered seats and enjoy a game without thought or annoyance from the weather. Once here the Fall visitors find there are plenty of things to occupy their time. Golf is a year 'round sport. Bicycling on the Boardwalk, permit- ted before 9 a.m. is popular. The Boardwalk was opened to the cyclist some four years ago and is believed to have been in part responsible for the increased popularity of the sport throughout the Nation. Similar praises can be sung for he 'seback riding on the beach. The 8-mile long expanse of wide, flat beach provides an excellent bridle path, and horses are available for all sport. Ancient Ceremony Revived. LONDON, October 23.—Twenty-one carronades will fire a “feu de joie” at the gates of Windsor Castle on De- cember 14 in honor of the King's birthday. This is a revival of an ancient ceremony, for until 1931, when the practice was discarded, it had been the custom during many centuries thus to salute royal birthdays and other occasions of national rejoicing. Equator’s Sun Cooled. GALAPAGOS 1ISLANDS, ~ October 23.—Six hundred miles off the coast of Equador, these islands lie squarely across the Equator, but the blaze of the vertical sun is tempered by the cold Humboldt current, which washes their shores. Blankets are always necessary for bed covering at night. STEAMSHIPS. 5 ROUND TRIP SOUTNAMPTON — ANTWERP Vetoron iravellers agrae thot the best time 1o wavel is "o secton”. They prefer the »P sailings. You, toy, will enjey this friendly way e Evrepe. F=B"g ARNOLD BERNSTEIN LINES those who desire to partake of the | ongenial CASINOS OF FRANCE GAINING PATRONAGE Profits Stage Comeback, With Le Touquet-Paris Plage Leading 15 Such Enterprises. PARIS, October 23.—French ca- sinos made a total net profit of 135,- 854,100 francs (more than $6,000,000) in 1956. 8ince 1930 profits of French casinos have been dropping, but 1936 seems to indicate that the downward tendency has definitely ended. A tabulation, covering the 15 prin- cipal casinos in France, shows that Le Touquet-Paris Plage, the Channel resort which is so popular with Eng- lish visitors, leads them all in profits. Second place goes to the Casino Municipal, in Nice. There are two other casinos in Nice. The standing of other French STEAMSHIPS. B—S casinos, secording to 1936 profits ree ported, is as foilows: Jetee Prom- enade Casino in Nice, Municipal Casino in Cannes, Mediterranee in Nice, Deauville, Aix-Thermal, Eng- hien, Vichy Grand Casino, Charbon=~ niere, Biarritz, Palm-Beach Casino at Cannes, Evian, Aix-les-Bains and Vittel. HISTORIC HOUSE STANDS Place Where Washington Stayed in Barbados Preserved. BRIDGETOWN, October 23.—The house in Bridgetown, Barbados, whers George Washington lived with his invalid brother Lawrence in 1751 still stands at the corner of Bay street and Chelsea road. According to his diary, George Washington spent some time there at a cost of “£15 a month, ex- clusive of washing or liquors.” Wash- ington at the time was a major in the British Army. STEAMSHIPS. FURNESS TRIANGLE Choose from this festival of cruises on th: sure-planned Monarch or Queen . . “plea- .visiting the pick of *foreign” resorts in seasori. And enjoy & private bath regard less of rate—a luxury you'd demand ashore! and York JAN. 5 ermuda, ana with shi Flurness eaif 27 p Regular service to BERMUDA $60 Round Trip_including Pri Bath Current Sailings: Oct. 30, Nov. 6, 1 ete. Abbly 1o your own TRAVEL AGENT or Furnes Bermuda P as {vot-l. Or N8: enjoy stop, 0, 27, HAVANA 8 DAYs 105, ; ’;lydi».‘ IVATE BATH 34 Whitehall St., leasure. New York City hristmas and New Year’s ruise . n Company ON THE NORTH GERMAN LLOYD DE LUXE LINER COLUMBUS® HAVANA for CHRISTMAS DAY Visits in COLON and KINGSTON NEW YEAR’S DAY in NASSAU Both Christmasand New Year’s Eves Celebrated Aboard under Southern Skies. SAILING DECEMBER 22 for 12 DAYS $170 up . . . Return Monday, January 3. SIMILAR 12.DAY CRUISES JAN. 8 & JAN. 22 —SAME RATES Annual Lloyd NEW YEAR’S CRUISE Sails DECEMBER 28 on the BREMEN to BERMUDA and NASSAU..5 Days..$85 up. Annual 4 Days . . Hapag NEW YEAR'S CRUISE ‘Sails DECEMBER 31 on the HAMBURG to BERMUDA . $55up. " Literature . . . Reservations from Your Travel Agent, or Hambueg-American Line + North Geeman Lloyd B §7 Broadway, New York, N. Y. Uptown Office: 669 Fifth Avenue =