Evening Star Newspaper, July 2, 1933, Page 27

This ensemble is of black tafleta The separate blouse is of black silk dotted in white and has the same low shoulder and caped sleeve that distinguish the coat. faille. Summer Evening Frocks Are in Sheer Fabrics BY SYLVESTRE DORIAN, Director of the Paris Fashion Service, The writers of the Paris Fashion Bervice, who rotate as contributors to this series of articles, are the : Agnes-Dreboll,” Bruyere, Louise Bou- Mar- Le Monnier, Rose Roge Descat, Schiaparelli, gy Rouff, Marcel Rochas, Lucllé PARIS, June 24. ELDOM have evening fashions been more charming than they are this season. The French- woman is troubled with the same difficulty that besets Americans in many cities—what is called here the hour of Summer. in other words, daylight saving. Add to that the very long twilight on the @9th parallel, and it soon appears ithat evening dress must not only et forth with the sun still above the horison, but that it must pass hours #n what is practically broad daylight. Of course, that means that evening ®ashions must be designed not only for ertificial light, but also for the much ‘more revealing light of the sun. Sump- tuous fabrics and jewelry appear out of place under such conditions, and one feels much more at ease in crisp or- gandies, tulles, sheer ginghams and volle. That at least I judge to be the case, for these fabrics have never been so popular as they are this season. The result is that any evening gath: ering suggests nothing so much as bouquet of fresh, fragile flowers, par- ticularly as so many of the younger ‘women are wearing bouffant models of these crisp, sheer fabrics. As_usual, the various restaurants in the Bois are crowded at this time of year. The Bols, as you know, can acarcely be called a park in the Amer- joan sense of the word. It is too large, | extending for many miles along the western boundary of Paris. Unlike the usual French park. the gardening is not formal. On the contrary, there are great stretches of real forest. dotted with crystal-clear lakes and with beautiful winding pathways. The wild- ness is, of course, only an illusion, for right in the heart of the trees one comes upon one of the very chic res- taurants. French society, or such of it as hao- pens to be in Paris at this time of the year, crowds these wooded spots, din- ing and dancing amid the greenery, at an hour when the sun is still gleam- ing through the trees. A more charm- Ing setting for a certain type of evenin dress could scarcely be imagined an couturiors have proved their genius in devising most delightful models for such occasions. * ok ok x Ll.'l‘ me tell you about some of the medels I have seen recently in the smart restaurants of the Bois. One of the most exquisite was the Maggy Rouff model of pearl grey tulle, worn by a very blond English pirl, with hair of that flaxon color so rarely seen. This frock is very lovely on the dance floor, for it has an extremely bouffant skirt, which gives its wearer almost an ap- pearance of floating through the air as she dances. There is a necklace bodice—ir. other words, a band of the tulle, fastened to the front decolietage, which passes around the neck and holds the bodice in plme,k The ne«il;\ue is fastened at the back to a wide grey sash of moire , with crystal clasps. ‘The ribbon is tied in a huge bow, with ends that fall down the back. With this frock there is a little gathered cape, which may be removed st will. Another youthful dress which I have seen' worn several times recently is the very quaint Chanel model in white organdy with fluted ruffles. This is the type of dress that puts one back in imagination into the late Vic- torian epoch and when worn by a young girl of a certain air of naivete it is a great success. ‘The frock itself is of severest simplicity, a plain bodice ~with modest decolletage and a fitted skirt which flares quite widely at the bottom. All around the bottom of the It shows the new ened in front and Evening gown of black mousseline with large tracery rings in white. ond the very long hipline. Canvas skirt length, short- with a slight train, continue silk, white with a large scarlet check, is the material of the dress above. The cap shoulders into bratelles, which form sash ends in the back. skirt is a double row of the stiff fluted ruffies. Then there is a fitted jacket, with a ruff around the throat such as| Queen Elizabeth might have worn, with | similar ruffs around the bottom of the short sleeves. And as a further note of utter simplicity and naivete there is a demure little bonnet with a fluted | ruffle all around. ‘These two frocks are indicative of the youthful type of dress that is popular | this Summer and they are, of course, | | worn by very young girls. Older wom- en and the more sophisticated type of young women choose summery frocks | of more dignified line. A Molyneux ! costume of green lacquered mouseeline is an example of this type of frock.; This dress, which I saw at Armenonville the other evening, is made with a slen- der skirt, with quite a little fullness in- | troduced at the bottom. The skirt is | trimmed with four tucks, the first just | below the hips, the others spaced | nearly equally, the last being at about | the knees. The bodice is simple and & girdle of self material ties at one side. The really elegant feature of this costume is the waist-length cape of ostrich fronds in an exquisite tone of green. | * x % % | ANOTHER smart costume comes J} from the Patou salons and proves | once more the popularity of sheer fab- | rics. This is of beige georgette, a ma- | terial that is very much in favor thll‘ season. This is made with a skirt, with fitted yoke, and with an inverted double pleat down the front. There are very short sleeves cut in one with the bodice. Straps over the shoulders are drawn into a circular ornament at the | center front. With this smart frock is | worn a short brown velvet jacket, with puffed short sleeves of beige lamb. As a final note of elegance there is |a quaint little draped hat, a bit like & | tt‘:m-o'vlhlnt!‘. with a huge bow on the . Somewhat less formal than these gownz was one of printed silk. It was worn with a jacket and was simple enough for late afternoon wear. The | interesting feature of this costume I| | discovered when its wearer removed | the jacket bfore dancing. Two deep slits almost to the waistline in the back gave a quite formal air to the frock and made it entirely suitable for danc- ing. The dress, of course, was sleeve- less. The style seemed a most practical | one for American women, who so often | find themselves going from afternoon | to evening without the opportunity to | change to evening dress. This frock | answers both purposes admirably. | (Copyrisht, 1033.) | | 'Coiffures Individualjty { FHAVE you ever had an expert optnion on the way to arrange your hair? | It's worth doing. No matter if you | cannot go regularly to a hairdresser you will be surprised at the coiffures the | hairdressers offer you to suit your own | charm. And as to | question—which is so important these days—you will find them all exception- | ally sympathetic. { For kno that the jaunty little tilted hats and those gay “clown hats” as well as their more sisters are the present fashion, hairdressers have arrived at a most successful re- sult. They build the hair to meet the hats. The movement is a decided up- | ward one—with the natural hairline | much in evidence. Also this is the sea- | | son for femininity. Strangely enough, | severe lines in hairdressing disappeared as the strictly tailored suits arrived. More Like Men Some More. London girls who pride themselves in being more like men every are wearing trousers instead of tweed knick- erbockers or plus fours for bicycle rid- more chance to adopt a masculine ides, that of wearing ankle clips.. Variety in Hats Creates Individuality of Wearer BY JANE BLANCHOT. OUR hat is the most dramatic note in your costume. It's like the high light in a picture, or the climax of a play. Your frock may be mediocre a uninteresting, but if your hat is right, your costume is & success. When a stranger meets you, what does he see? Your dress, your shoes, your accessories? Of course not. He sees your hat. It is the hat that gives character to the whole costume. Even more than that, it is the hat that gives character to you. Your hat is gay, in- souciant, or it is formal and dign:fied. It gives the cue to your own mood an temperament. Not only does the hat express your own mood, but it is the best index to| the temper of the times. Hats are al- ways changing. A hat six months old is already an antique. You buy your coats for three or four seasons, your frocks for two, but your hats you buy for the hour and the day. They ex- press a passing emotlon; they are a lciam.w.ulmz to the times in which we ve. If I were to study a nation’s history, I would study its hats first, because I am sure they would give me a clue to the emotional life of the times. Think of the heimet-like cloche that women clung to so desperately after the war, It represented a uniform to them. Like soldiers, they wanted all to be alike. But now, study the hats you see around you. There are dozens of types; there was never so much in- dividuality in hats as there Is today. And, likewise, women were never more sure of themselves, never more willing to follow their own individual likes and moods. Women of today are independ- ent and so hats also are varied and as different as their wearers. * x % % I‘l’hlwlnemmvhomommd buys & new hat when her spirits are lagging and her courage is low. For the proper hat puts her at once in step with the times. The right hat says to the world, and to her, that she is alert and abreast of the trends around about her. She is not living in the world of a year ago, or six months ago, but in the world of this very mo- ment. That is what the right hat says as plain as day to passersby. They ap- rove of the woman who takes this attitude toward life, for they realize | gr that she will be as keen and aware in every-fleld of life. Hats, more than any other article of dress, are a test of one’s style sense. The really smart woman is able to adapt herself very quickly to what is new. The designer presents her work, the smart woman appraises it instantly and adapts herself to its new require- ments. Hats are always new. This season's hats bear no relation to the hats of a season ago. t isn't true of clothes. Designers of coats and dresses dare not turn their styles topsy-turvy, at the pain of finding them rejected. Practicality rules in the realm of frocks and coats. But when it is a hat, no such rules of practicality are in forde. It js never necessary to design a hat that will outlast several seasons. A hat it & thing of the moment. Therefore it is a delightful surprise. One season, hats may as flat as pancakes; the next, as tall as the Tower of Babel ‘The smart woman goes from one to the other as easily as she slips out of one pair of shoes into another. She adopts the mode that appeals to her temper- amentality. But she doesn’t limit her- self to one single hat, for she is only too well aware that half the fun of belni & woman comes tro'nyl ;he ability to change one's personalif y chang- ing one's clothes—above all by changing one’s hat. When she feels very and nonchalant, she chooses such a as a careless draped band of bright colors. When she longs to be her prettiest, she chooses a hat that frames n}]\:r face and ro- mantically, s ‘models d | far i linen with its| yOP course, the wise woman doesn't | consult only her temperament in choosing a hat. She is aware that her hat must be becoming; that it must nd | architecturally, i#f I may use such an expression, become s part of her. In selecting & hat she doesn’t study it merely in its relation to her face. That is necessary, of course, but even more | important is its relation to the propor- ! tions of her body. i No one should buy & hat without first | studying her appearance in a full-length mirror, not only from the front, but |from the back and sides. I always ad- vise clients to move far back from the mirror, so that they see themselves as others see them. In other words, they get a general impression of the whole ensemble. They are able then to deter- mine whether the hat they have se- Icted is really a part of the whole fig. ure, or whether it seems just an absurd addition, without rhyme or reason. I should never select & hat without knowing what costumes it was to be worn with. The hat that is charming with one costume may appear quite gauche with another. Sometimes such a simple detail as skirt length will af- fect the proportions of the figure and make a hat becoming or unbecoming. For instance, in the matter of large hats. Short women are sometimes warned that they should noj} wear large hats. I will agree that a Tt woman in a short skirt and a wide hat resem- bles nothing 80 much as & mushroom. But let this same woman lengthen her skirts and she may be able to wear the wide hat quite successfully. It is all a matter of harmonious ns. Indeed, this simple monious proportions should be in every woman’s mind when she buys a hat, of whatever type. It is the test of real (Copyright, 1933.) Housewife's Rest. One housewife attributes her health to the fact that for years it been her custom close her eyes and forget all about the duties that wait for her, relaxing com- pletel; mind and body. Another pru:tine she indulges in is keeping roses owing outside the kitchen window, where she can look at them while wash- ing dishes. Suppers Now Many of our patrons told us that they preferred supper at night in Summer. .. 80 we have added to our menu a supper at $0.75 which is cool, delicious and tempting. . . . Dinners are also served at $1.00 and $1.25. There is a “no tipping” service w“hhy" B:30 e 00 Sundays: 535% 8%d P Alter dinner enjoy the spacious™ cool garden and roof porch. Adjacent is the new Capitol-Plaza Park with its Deauttful fountain fllumined nightly. THE DODGE HOTEL North Capitol and E Streets N.W. NA. 5460 Ample space for parking wosr cer TR e e N B T T READ ADMR. NULTON TO RETIRE ON SEPT. 1 Will Open Home at Winchester and Reside There Permanently, Friends Learn. Forty-eight years of continuous serv- ice in the Navy were brought to a close yesterdsy, when Rear Admiral Louis M. Nulton, commandant of the Pirst Naval District and the Navy Yard, Boston, Mass,, was placed on the waiting order list, preparatory to retiring on Sep- admiral's World War service brought him the Navy Cross for his work as commandant of midshipmen at the Naval Academy and later as commanding officer of the U. 8. 8. Pennsylvania in the Atlantic Fleet. 15 WASHINGTON BOYS PASS SWIMMING TEST Special Examination Is Given Group at Y. M. C. A. Camp on Rhodes River. With water front activities at their peak, 15 Washington boys have passed & special swimming test at Camp Letts, Y. M. C. A. vacation camp for boys on the Rhodes River. near Chesapeake Bay, it was reported yesterday by Camp Di- | g rector James C. Ingram. Swimming and boating are being con- centrated upon during the first few weeks of the camp season, but later the erstown, , & graduate of Juniata College. He assisted by John Hain, John Mullady, Cuvell and James P. Schick, jr., all of Washington. . ‘The local boys who have passed the swimming test are Pred Riley, Winthrop Shaw, Bruce Etchison, James Horn, Lin Silvester, Curtis Hall, Pat . Billy Pole, Malcolm McDon- Stansfield. John Watson, t, Russell Hollingsworth, t—Carl Agent of boys also P‘ued the Maryland and Wil- Ham Boulanger of Delaware. Paved moase e o p——— s moace —— FPLAIY NUMIRALS INBICATE MILLAGS SETERINY OUTLINID POINTS @ Yarmnats w mums, vins (@ cumomTESWLE * &\ 7 Secharconle Maryland Lincoln Way Hotel, Rockville. Route 240. is. Routes Log , Annapoli 50—2 The Mapics, 1 mile beyond D. C. Line. Route 5. Miller Cottage, near Berwyn. Route 1. Ridgeville Hotel, Ridgeville. Routes 240—29. Riverside Inn, Seneca. Routes 240—28. Rose Hill Manor, Frederick. Routes 240—15. Silver Hill Inn, 1¢ mile beyond D. C. Line. Route 5. Vinda Bons, Braddock Heights. Routes 240—40. Woodlawn Lodge, between Olney and Ashton. Routes 27 or 28. BLACK CAT INN Leesburg, Va. Phone 223 Delighttul Southern se Parties rmanent and_ Transjent Gu Francis Scott Key Hotel Frederick, Maryland Fine Table D'Hote Dinner $1.00 and $1.25 “CORNER HALL ROUND HILL, VA. ur drive_from Washingten thly or Week-end gues heon—Tea—Di Phone, Purcellvilie 4633 _ Brooke filanur ASHTON, MD. SPECIAL DINNER. .. TODAY_AND Route 27 Via Colesville-Ash Phone Ashton 141 Most utifel Spet on Upper Potomae Sout ome 81 00 Cooked Dinner 13, GRAY'’S HILL INN Overlooking the Potomac Formerly @ part of Mt. Vernon Luncheon Di Mt. Vernon Hishway, The Old Ridgeville Hotel Ridgeville, Md. 38 miles north of Washington on Routes 29 and U. S. 40 “For more than & Maly century moted for COUNTRY HAM and CHICKEN DINNI T THIS YEAR $1.00 'WEEKLY RATES ON REQUEST Tel. Mt. Airy 122 _P.O. Mt. Airy, Md. Pen-Mar, Maryland X feet titude; venultoes. Denoing. Maryl 1) listeric Rose Hill Manor Mlll..‘ inners, $1.00-81.50. Try THE MAPLES Under New Managcment For a Real Chicken, Steak or Sea Food Dinner Special $1.00 Dinner 1 Mile from the District Line on the nard ike. W. KNOTT, Mai WOODLAWN LODGE Between Olney and Ashton, Md. Teas Dinners ra ser The Commonwealth Farm —is now open and ready to serve its patrons, old and new, in its usual distinctive manner. 1 mi orth of Colesville, Md., on route No. 27. Paved road to door. Chapman Manor BLUE RIDGE SUMMIT, PENN. Among the Mountains Now Offers You Rates You Can Afford Phone 9019-M Top H% Harpers Ferry, W. Va. "AMONG THE MOUNTAINS® Southern Cooking Modern Rooms "Warren Green Hot WARRENTON, VIRGINIA Forty Miles from Washington Over the Lee Highway Through the Bull Run Batlefield. 3 NEW SUNDAY Chicken, Country Hai ___ Ferved 1 The Vinda Dinner .00 — Bona BRADDOCK HEIGHTS, MD. * Same quality and quantity of food at reduced rates Hattie V. Warfleld-Wech COLLEGE INN Ovpesife Western land estminster, SPECIAL CHICKEN AND STEAK DINNERS, G“;‘P & | West Virginia Hill Top House, Harpers Ferry. Routes 340—340. Virginia Black ?lt Inn, Leesburg. Route 54. [ O b~ g or Route Springs. Rottes 311—11 or 1 50—11. . Routes 50—37 or 211—317. ‘Warren Green Hotel, Warrenton. Route 211 Pennsylvania Bon Aire, Pen Mar. Chapman Manor, Blue Ridge Summif Routes 240—15—16. it. Routes 240—15—16. Crout’s Hotel, Pen Mar. Routes 240—15—186. Pen Mar Park, Pen Mar. Summit Villa, Blue Ridge Summit. Come to The Corner Cupboard —at Sandy Springs on _Route 28 for De- "“”:Ae!. e Paoularly” Tefreshing st Vel Dinners on Sunday and Holidays, or by Order ENJOY “THE FOURTH” In the Blue Ridge Mountaing at Pen Mar And Dine at THE BON AIRE Special Dinner, $1.00 Mrs. B. F. Diehl Phone 91368-J le Drive 53 Miles -F- A Colonial resort on Shenan A spiring. romantic. Canoeing. fishing, swim- ming; * Three busses aally from Washington. Rooms, $1; Southern Meals, $1 Jeekly 15 <18 let. Route 54 Maurice F. OCastleman. P. O. Berryville. Va. * CROUT’S HOTEL PEN MAI Enjoy e A End_and Col. 1357-W CHICKEN OR STEAK DINNERS Our, Own Home-Grown en Soft and Hard &l‘l C%E lo Cover Drive out Anacestia HOTEL Rockville, Md. Enjoy our special dinners in our Home-Prepared Meals 65¢c, 75¢, $1 Rockville 78 Newly Decorated LOG INN Engage Rooms for JULY 4th. Rooms and meals, $4.00 per day. SEA FOOD DINNERS $1.25 to $1.50 it Permanent or Weekly Mrs. Edwin M. R m Avenue Over Phone Annap. 1. Routes 240—15—16 Routes 240—15—16. MILLER COTTAGE Blvd. 10 m' 1$hingte miles. 0 e Special " Baked Chicken Whole chicken to each person. Daily including Sunday. . Phene Berwyn 85¢- Front Royal, Va. rormenty of Hunset Lodoe A Delightful Waysige In ing Delicious Me: Braddock Heights’ Best Hotel Special Chicken sl.m First-Class Rooms with and ‘Without Baths The Place to Stay SUMMIT VILLA Ridge Summit, Pa. ttractive surroundings with service which p NS, B e . MISSES INGEL Blare semmit 1008 _ COLLINGWOOD Table &'Hote and A Carte Service | SPRINGS HOTEL Orkney Springs, ¥& - nili I:N".lrl"' :‘:;%I':m"'nh'z . Swimming, He ous Dinner 1 to 2:30 sl‘w E. L. Ceckrell, Manager