Evening Star Newspaper, May 3, 1931, Page 53

5 rico Cro the revival of the play, “Peter Ibbetson,” | wears a bustle gown of gray taffeta, trim- med with chinchilla, and a hat with a Suits and Coats of Women at Aqueduct Park Meet Distinguished by Tuckings and Ap- pliques; Dusty Yel new season shone brightly at the recent Spring meet of the United Hunts at Aqueduct Park. The soft knitted hat, the the extensive and in- use of colors in contrast. the vogue of the printed silk dress worn under a coat of plain fabric—all these and kindred styles were among those sponsored by the smart women who attended this Tashionable sporting event. Small, close-fitting hats of the tur- ban type were much in evidence, some of the newest being made of velvet and pleated silk as well as & host of the erocheted turbans in chenille, wool and straw, which are so popular this Spring. Many brimmed hats also were worn— the sort of hats which will be seen ! LL the style high lights of the | was also much worn. A yellow jacket | in greater numbers as the season ad- | vances. Prominent among these were those with tricot crowns and straw brims—Milan preferred—of the type which Agnes sponsored in her last showing and which met with enthusi- astic response because of their new- ness and comfort. Sailor shapes in this effect were especially noticeable. Tri- color themes in ribbon were a favored trimming, and white accents retained their importance, not only as trim- ming for hats, but also for gloves and occasionally for footwear. *xox % NEPARATE coats and suit jackets %) “were distinguished by the ~dress- maker details so typical of this year's fashions. Irregular seaming:. diagonal ps of tucks and applique form of stitched bands of the material were important details of trimming. The raglan sleeve was outstanding. being seen in coats of monotone woolens and in cloth mix- tures. As at every outdoor affair, color gained importance in the brilliant sun- shine. Brown and blue maintained the prestige they gained early in the sea- son, while two unusual costumes were In shades of purple. An ensemble of pastel green and a coat of brilliant bii- lard green were noteworthy. Much dusty vellow was seen, espe- ecially as trimming on costumes of cther colors. Ye! d white shared hon- ors as a contrast with brown and the former color appeared to good advan- tage with navy blue. Pink was used with black. Rust color and brown were combined in some costumes, while in others brown was contrasted with bot- tle green. Brown and gray, a combi- mation which is very new this season, ~ . o Fashion Cable. PARIS, April 23 VWORTH -showing much_gray, particularly in dark shades, sometimes relieved by lighter shade, for both afternoon and evening. Also some dregs of wine. Black outstanding in Germaine Lecomte's collection, also much emerald for both day and eve- ning, some mulberry, dregs of wine and brown. Horizon blue and light gray seven-eighths- length coats shown over black dresses. Irene Dana featuring black, fol- lowed by green, brown and gray for daytime and pale biue and uuu for evening. Unusual ocoatee and cape effects for formal wear. , WASHI NG TON, g = Style Notes From Paris And American Designers ‘Above are five of the present-day styles inspired by those of the last century. Garlands of flowers appear on evening gowns, and the basque jacket is important. Flower-trimmed turbans recall the garlands worn on the hair in bygone times, while ruffles and pleats and short puffed sleeves are popular now, as then. At the right, a gown of blue and pink taffeta, with lace, worn by Miss Valerie Taylor in “Peter Ibbetson.” |Real Gardener | Likes to Weed| ‘The real garden enthusiast likes even | the weeding. In fact, that is perhaps | the best way to tell a real gardener. The genuine sort find amusement and diversion even in crouching on their knees removing weeds from lawns and garden beds. To make the task most attractive be sure to get one of the new kneeling cushions covered with woven raffia. A garden enthusiast says that the first thing to do is to have the | right kind of weeding tools at hand. This should include “an old kitchen knife, a trowel, a garden fork and an old table fork.” With the last named instrument all the very small weeds should be removed. Many persons use their fingers for these tiny growths, but | the old table fork makes a more thor- ough job of it and save the finger nails. | A garden enthusiast says t! it 18 |a good plan when weeding the borders and garden beds at ths time of the year | to save all grass roots that are pulled |out. It takes only a little more time to place them in an old tin by themselves. | They should be kept in a dark, cool place until you have time to make use of them. A day or so waiting will do | no harm. These roots nreb‘:run the | thing to use to mend the e spots that are sure to appear in every lawn at_this time of the year, and mending a lawn in this way really takes less time in the long run than by the usual method of seeding it. Sometimes large was pleasingly contrasted with a black | weeds when taken from the lawn leave skirt, while a brown sult with draped ' little bare spots and the discarded grass collar and extra cuffs of light blu> was roots may be placed in these holes. | unusual and attractive. o2 s Printed and Plain. JHITE and a color was the favored color motif for the print dress Y worn mder "ihe monotone “wmel ot | Procks of printed creps are worn with Brown and white prints with browr acKets of plain dark color. The color coats and blue and Whtie prints with MAtches one of the colors in the print, | which is usually on a lighter ground; or "L" print is in color, on a dark Miss Jessie Royce Landis, appearing in trailing ostrich plume. low Popular Color. coats of dark blue were popular, with | pin dots, coin dots and spotted effects | ®18e especially liked. groun Belts are with us to stay, if the crowd | at the United Hunts meet is any ind:- | cation. They may be wide or narrow, whichever is most to the tn- dividual, —— anrar Short Capes. Distinctly mid-Victorian in appear- ance are the little short capes made to wear with some of the new evening dresses. These capes are of taffeta silk | with shirred frills or gathers around the edges, obviously made to suggest the amusing mantles worn by the lovely | Jadies of the hoop skirt and bustle perlodz of the last century. | Thete are white chiffon evening | scarfs edged with white lace to wear with the new white chiffon evening dress and to go with them there are white lace evening bags as charming as they are fragile. Polka Dots. Polka dots are considered especially appropriate for sports clothes at present And if you have never been willing to wear a dotted dress for street or formal wear you will now have an opportunity | to wear polka dots for sports. ! | Pajamas or New Mode Seems Out for Frills, While Divided Skirts Have Their Advocates.} Natural Outcome of Longer Skirts Ob- served. BY MARY MARSHALL. HAT 1s the most significant new fashion, or revived old {ut;\om of the present sea- son? Every one of us who takes a normal woman'’s interest in fashions is entitled to an answer to that ques- tion, which incidentally may come as| near the truth as the opinion of the fashion expert. Pajamas and divided skirts have come up for attention If they are finally accepted as the normal type of skirt for women then indeed we shall look back on the Winter and Spring of 1931 as the time when the fashion first began to_make real headway. But our own personal opinion is that petticoats are much more important than pajamas and that the revival of the frilled and ruffled underskirt that has occurred this Spring 18 decidedly significant. % x % "JO be sure there has been and will continue to be protest. Many wom- en have definitely decided never to take up with & fashion that is so decidedly mid-Victorian as the petticoat. Itseems Petticoats? like a step backward away from_ the camfort and convenience that have | characterized fashions for the past 15 years. But there were similar pro- tests when dressmakers first tried to | revive long skirts and normal waist- lines which bv now every one taxes quite for granted. ! should have been revived —they are a natural and inevitable outcome of the longer skirt—but that they should have lingered 8o long as they have on the | threshold of accepted fashions. As usual the dressmakers have effect- ed a compromise and if you do not want to wear a real petticoat you may wear a dress with a petticoat flounce attached |to the inside. But for light evening dresses a ruffled petticoat or slip is | merely a logical outcome of the longer | skirt. Afternoon dresses of the | staidier sort also have their petticoats. A black, lightweight wool afternoon dress of simple design has a taffeta | petticoat with ruffles. | PR RENE DANA fs responsible for laca | © petticoats worn with matching lace | blouses and Lelong makes plaid taffeta petticoats to wear under plain-toned skirts. Another Victorian fashion that goes bhand in hand with petticoats is the | shoulder cape er short capelet which has come this Spring to take the place of the short jacket as a light evening | wrap. Incidentally it gives width to the | shoulders. therby accenting the slen- | derness of the waist and hips. Some of these new capelets are made to | match the frock with which they are worn. Sometimes they are made of pastel toned or white satin edged with fur. Others are made of taffeta, veivet on. ‘The odd thing is not that petticoats | PART THREE. wns and Straw Brims Fashion High Lights in Hats | Divided Skirts Give Knickers Hard Race. The newest version of the trouser skirt or pajama fashion appears among | the washable house dresses. 1t is & | practical one-plece dress to wear at | home on Summer mornings. And it is |not a negligee—just a neat, up-to-date | dress for the up-to-date housewife. Divided skirts for tennis are made with a deep skirt yoke to which are at- tached two skirt sections that might at first glance be mistaken for a one-piece skirt with a center pleat back and front. Interestingly enough these new ver- slons of the divided skirt—all of which might be traced to the pajama—have put the fashion for knickers in the dis- card. The up-to-date Summer girl will | wear tweed divided skirts instead of | tweed knickers for camping this year. Lace Trimmed. Lace is much used. Some of the loveliest blouses to wear under the | semi-formal little two-plece suits are trimmed with collars of lace that make them quite suitable for informal dinner or_theater wear. | . Negligees are much trimmed with {lace, too, and sometimes afternoon | dresses show deep insets of lace about | the neck and sleeves. | Lace berthas, softly draped over the shoulders, give a softened touch to many afternoon and informal evening dresses. | Pleats Play Part | PARIS () —Pleats are the outstand- ing wrinkle in the fashionable mode these days. | Evening frocks of chiffon and fine | georgette are sometimes accordion- | pleated from shoulder to hem, sports frocks have skirts marked by clusters of tiny pleats and daytime dresses are designed with pleated tunics and capes, Above, three costumes worn by Miss Edna Best in “Melo.” From left to right: Dark blue wool dress with scarf neckline and pleated skirt, White chiffon evening gown with pointed ruflles. lingerie collar and cuffs. At the left and right are clothes worn in the audience at the premiera of “Melo.” satin dress and matching jacket, short white ermine coat, and two of the mew evening muffs. woat with red fox cuffs and & short brown velveteen jacket trimmed with short-haired brown fur, - Dross of red and black plaid with short sleeves and Left, white Right, a bisque-colored satin PARIS. TI-B horse show always provides the very latest things in sports clothes among the spectators, as well as, curi- ously enough, some decidedly formal ! afternoon costumes during day- time shows. Among the more formal costumes a dress and hat of that lovely pervenche blue that is almost violet were worn with an unlined coat of black crepe. The double strapping of the decol- letage of the gown was repeated in the flat band of the same material which 1mur:med the tiny hat of crocheted straw. |, One attractive suit seen there was in plaid effect in a yellow so pale that it was almost beige, that seemed very light in comparison with the wine tones that one sees so generally. This plaid made the skirt and came up at one side under the belt onto the natural colored shantung | blouse. ‘The skirt was plain in the | back, but fitted to the new silhouette, | while the front had a godet on either side. A three-inch band of the clear | of the plain light yellow was cut to the walstline in the front and just covered rial. of beige, piped with red, made the shoes | and matching bag. Here was a costume | | which was excecdingly smart at the | | Grand Palals, and would also be effec- | | tive on the golf course. | A smart tailored suit of black alpaca | was cut on_the bias in the true Vionnet | manner. The elbow sleeves ended with | an exceedingly simple turn-back cuff of pressed p! the pajama effect which to be seen more and more. The jacket, of the same material as the dress, was collarless, but had wide revers which draped themselves as they would. The cutaway front was widely lapped and held to the figure by a button and a narrow belt. Another smart_tailored suit in black crepe de chine had a double-breasted Jacket and quite a long skirt that de- pended for its fullness on a worked panel at one side. The sleeve finish and the vest were of white pique. Coat dresses are exceedingly popular at the moment in Paris, not only at the Horse Show, but also along the Avenue des Acacias, which is filled with prom- enaders every afternoon, now that the Spring sunshine makes walking a pleasure. Often these coat dresses have a vest or blouse of lighter tone, but occasion- ally the only contrast is given by the narrowest of lingerie collars and per- haps a tied-on cuff 2 or 3 inches above the bottom of the sleeves. The success of the coat dress is quite surprising and may perhaps be accounte ed for by the wholehearted way in which the tailored suit has been accepted. Both styles gained their first popularity igners, although perhaps they found their first 1 ition in their visits to and In thelr frst-nand knowledge of - American life, N One of the most interesting noted in the Bois recently was In a diagonal , and a clear red | The o methods of relieving the too severe of the original coat dress. It is a wele come innovation which we French designing mspmum.n Dark:E;eH . Blonde Is Classic Beauty That Venus, goddess of love and beauty, had golden hair all poets and painters seem to be agreed; but whenm it comes to the color of her eyes there is not such unity of opinion. Some say she was a blue-eyed blonde, and others insist that she was of thst rare and altogether lovely type—the brown or black-eyed blonde. “Greek and Roman poest praised black eyes,” says an Italian who wrote on feminine beauty some 500 years ago, “and all are u&reed that the Goddess of beauty had them.” And again while saying that the ideal woman must have hair like pure gold or honey he says, “‘common custom seems to have obtained that dark tan or nut-brown eyes hold the first place among eyes of all colors.™ Another Italian writing at about the me period says that eyes should be “black like the skin of s olive, velvety, fathomless, yet sl like twin caverns of coal” and he insists ltthizt the hair should, be like golden sun= ght. Yet women were endowed by nature with golden hair no more often among the swarthy Italians 500 than they are today. painters find their models? poets ever find their ideal in the flesh? Assuredly, for those Italian ladies had learned the secrets of securing blonde hair by chemical means, and their skin was made to seem fair by the use of bleaches and paints. We are told that there was one beauty specialist of the day who had the formula for a wash that would make golden hair from locks as “black as raven's wing.” This com- bination of golden hair with eyes that were indeed “black like the skin of & ripe olive” was certainly striking. You will see a surprisingly large number of women of this type if you visit the picture ‘where the works of the Italian “old masters” are shown. In fact artists throughout the ages have especlally admired the type: and they have painted the portraits of the artful beauties of their time who produced the effect h artificial means, but with far greater charm have they portrayed the charms of the women who were endowed by nature with the old Italian idea of the Venus combis nation of eyes and hair. Novelists, too, have often chosen this type for their heroines. Such is Alex- andre Dumas’ Bianca Capello whom he introduces to us as “a charming girl of 15 or 16 with a dead white com- plexion, over which at the slightest emotion & blush would pass Lie rosy cloud; hair of that intense blonde that Raphael beautiful, and black eyes full of fire.” Drop-Shoulder Gown PARIS (#).—Drop-shoulder evening gowns are a new note in the Spring- time starlight mode. : Black satin and lace frocks are de- signed to cover one shoulder and drop from the other. 3 Occasionally the line is varied by ixl:mf' shoulder strap of strass or bril- nts. Beltless Silhouettes PARIS (#).—Beltless silhouettes are taking the fashion spotlight from the marked waistlines 'kl:lch have distin- guished evening froc! The newest wns are made lines, tue or ecriss-cross lines about waist hips and have no belts. 4 -