Evening Star Newspaper, February 22, 1931, Page 41

€ ’ THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, FEBRUARY 22, 1931-PART THREE Color D { . . Suits Chosen in Prefer- ence to Ensemble of Dress and Coat. Soft, Long - haired Furs Prevail—Scarfs Become Part of Coat or Dress for Formal Wear—Trimming of White at Neck. SMART New York restaurant at luncheon time is the best place to see fashionable day- time clothes as they are worn, where they are on parade, as it were, and a variety of choice is here for the seeing. You are no further along with your luncheon than your tomato juice cocktail when this im- pression becomes certainty. At one restaurant smart clothes and delectable food meet between 1 o'clock and 3 every day fn the week, so we chose it as representative of what “they are wearing at luncheon time.” All the clothes shown in our sketches today were seen there one day recently. Sizable question marks punctuate the query as to where fash really start, for many of the fashion features de- scribed in cables from Paris already are incorporated in dress as worn in New York: Witness the short-sleeved suit the colors that are superseding black and the hats with tilted brims. AT SUITS are chosen in preference to the ensemble of dress and coat, and in these two lengths of coats are favored. Coats of many lengths have appeared in the Spring showings of fashibn— among the few chosen the hip-length Jacket and redingote. The latter, here- tofore considered a style for matrons, has been adopted with enthusiasm not only by the debutante, but by the junior Soft, long-haired furs prevail, when furs are worn and considerable silver fox is seen. This should be 2 good sea- son for fox furs, with th collarless coat 80_very prominent. No longer an accessory of the sports | costume alone, scarfs have bacome what we term high style, and are part of the coat or dress for formal wear. You will see the scarf as part of a printed silk dress worn under a redingote. It forms the collar of a jacket and is twisted around the neck of a wool dress worn with a short fur jacket. £m ¥ INGERIE collars have become ex- traordinarily prominent on dresses that are somewhat formal. Some of the dresses sketched today, hoth col- ored and black, show a trimmung of white at-the neck. In one correr cf the large sketch, pleated white georgette is used et the back of the neck and to extend over the shculders into a half yoke. Cavalier cuffs reaching almost to the | elbow are smart, too, and many of them re worn. Pique cuffs in this style are Color was everywhere. Green dresses with white collars and cuffs, dresses in and beiges in entire costumes colored silk blouses were seen. Right: A suit of beige wool trimmed with stone marten fur, worn with a tricot EL ing purse. cap, browen suede gloves and match- Gifts for Spring Brides Selection' Should Be Made With Knowl- edge of What They Would Prefer. Some Classes Which Promise to Meet Re- quirements. It's time to he thinking about Spring rides. The most that we have to do is to buy gifts for a few of these brides. | But that gil buying is & most impor- | tant thing. It always seems that the gift should b something the bride really likes, really wishes for. And when you see rows and rows of stupid presents, things the bride doesn't really delight in, they are a reflection on those who sent them, not on the taste of the bride. Por the donor of the gift should spent time as well as money in select- ing the gift and should be sure, by sorie means or other, that it is just What the bride wants. If you don’t know the tastes of the bride, you may have some difficulty in choosing just the right thing. But you ©an do it. You can ask about her taste. It you ean't find anything about it, rhaps you know something about the idegroom's taste, and then you can be sure something chosen that he would like would please girl as well. And you can buy something not too individ ual, not too unusual, something th: anybody would like For instance, suppose you don't know the bride at all, but you do know that the weddng trip is going to be taken sutomobile. That's a lead. Some- ing for the car would surely be ac- ceptable, and more than that. A rug for cold days, for instance. A clever | flashlight, if you only want to spend a | little. Suppose the man has a little cabin or lodge where he goes camping. Then your choice is wide, indeed. Anything for the camp will be weicome. Table linen is almost always welcome | to any woman who to keep house. 8he can hardly have too much White damask is a good choice for the expensive gift. For the less expensive gift,_some “small luncheon napkins, a & s gO: e set of a breakfast set are all| Reading from the right: pique on a black drers. Navy llue green and blue printed silk. A blous Electrical equipment of all sorts is liked by the modern bride. For that matter, 1t would have been liked by the housekeeper of the past, poor thimg. if only she could have had it. But I think it is a very good thing, with elec- trical equipment as with such individ- ual pleces of silver as ple knives and oyster forks, to give with the under- standing that if it is a duplicate it| may be changed. You can then feel| satisfied that & bride won't be bur-| dened with six ple knives when she has| no kitchen clock, or with three toasters | when she badly needs a flatiron. [ Personal gifts are harder to choosz.‘ unless you are giving really expensive jewelry. T suppose almost any woman | would like a string of pearls. But it is really best to know the bride's you are giving something per A green handbag when her color sc 15 one of the new reas would be qu a mistake. However, if you know the bride per- sonally, nothing is nicer than a per- sonal gift. Something to wear, & hand- bag or traveling bag, an umbrella, all | these things will be welcome. taste al Scotch and French Plaids Are Smart| Either you like plaids or you don't. If you don't, there is no reason why | any one should try to persuade you to weaP one of them, but you will have to retire from active lfe at least throughout the Spring if you want to avoid seeing them. 1f you do like plaids, right now is the time to wear them — valiant Scotch ¢ plaids if you want or the subtler sort of Prench origin. Ever since the days of Empress Eu- genie French dressmakers have been iterested in plaids because Eugenie, though a native Spanjard, boasted of Scotch descent. The ihterest in plaids was revived in Prance in war days as a tribute, no doubt, to the heroism of the kilted 'Scotch regiments. And now, without any apparent reason, French dressmakers have again paid their trib- ute to the hardy highlanders Real Scotch plaids have been used by several of the French dressmaker: but there are other plaids of the mod fied French sort that show the combina- 1 of more subdued colors or the blending of several tones of the same color. They speak Bcotch with a de- cidedly French accent. Collar and gauntlet cuffs of white coat-dress, with a vest of red, e in three shades of green. The elothes pictured on this page were worn at La Rue Restaurant at the luncheon hour. | dark desigrs on | carried out with blouse and jacket suit. Prints Designed With New Skill The prints this season are excep- ; good. They had to be in or- rvive in a season when stripes end plaids and three-toned combina- tions of plain-colored materials were making such a strong bid for favor. One sees fewer prints of the strikingly modernistic sort, fewer that look sim- ply like hodgepodges of color. Of course there are prints that will strike you as distinctly impossible, prints that you wouldn't be seen wearing to a rum- mage sale, but so long as there are people who apparently like these impos- sibilities, accommodating storekeepers will continue to show them. ‘The better sort of prints strike one as being much more thoughtfully de- signed. There are small, rather for- mal designs on dark backgrounds, for the practical daytime dress, and neat b2 wern with da rials. With the ja wool you should r a blouse showing neat “brown figures on a beige or| cream-colored background. With a navy blue suit your print should show | a yellow or possibly a light green or dull light rose background with navy blue prints. In any case the figure, not the background, should match the plain tone with which the silk is to be worn. | This sort of combination is frequently It is also seen in the new redingote cos- tume, which shows a one-plece dress of the printed silk worn under a solid- toned coat. usually of lightweight wool, | which parts at the front enough to| show a panel of the silk from negk to hemline. The redingote is fully as long as the dress, sometimes just a shade On 1o account should a line of dress show beneath the hem k redingote section, blue, you know, is to be the r of ali the dark colors for Spring. It will be worn sometimes with pure _white, sometimes with prints showing navy blue figures on a light | background. = Probably the smartest | color mate for navy blue will be light | green—either a yellowish lime tone or a blulsh green of the light turquoise sort. | unde smartest Cuticle. It the cutic gs to the hdil hing it back. ck wound with glycerin _and _pu: gently with this. el don't be rough in Dip an orange-wood orbent cotton into the cuticle very about your fingernails | This black and whic halo hat was worn by an elderly woman with snow-white hair. Petticoats These Articles of Fash- ion Compete, accord-| ing to Paris Letter. Lace - trimmed Un- derskirts Are Found in Late Styles! Abroad. PARIS, February 14. THE collection of Maggy Rouff ex- presses, s always, the conviction of the directrice, Mme. Besancon de Wagner, that the mode must be suffi- ciently ‘diverse to produce clothes for type of woman. rew ideas this season and pro duced them in excecdingly interesting ways Petticoa vergent nent features of her collection. Many suits and ensembles, which utilized cot- ton fabrics in novel fashion were shown, while the cvening clothes, as always, were attractive and different. The long-forgotten petticoat, as shown by this designer, is smart under both afternoon and evening gowns. It is always finished at the bottom with row upon row of fine valenciennes lace. Since the bottoms of the skirts worn over these petticoats are cut in flat scallops, or slit up the center front, the and pajamas, widciy d- ‘| ruffles may be glimpsed bencath. The lace always is white, no matter what the colcr of the frock. For varlety Maggy Roufl also included in her col- lection seve black lace skirts just clgaring th: floo These were worn over slips which ended at the knee or slightly above it. * k k X THE development of the cotton fab- rics showed an understanding of the use of these materials. Skirts of silk or.wool in dark colors were shown with short jackets and blouses of white or pastel-tinted pique. A pique frock was worn with a long coat of the same cotton lined with navy blue jersey, the latter fabric also used for an accom- panying scarf. Other long ~oats, worn with dark-colored skirts, were of linen, either plain or starched. Evening [mjnmas had sun-pleated 4rousers so full that one thought them dresees at first glance. TFallle =ilk, georgette, crepe de chine, printed shantung and pailletted cire silk were the materials used for these evening pajamas. . ‘There are two distinet color policies at this house, both interes ‘There are combinations of two vi shades or else a delicate color nuance where the shading is barely ptible. Al powder tones are in favor, with em- i4 She hes created | styles, were among the promi- | dresses_with | — and Pajamas phasis placed on rachel and a new deli- cate pink shade, named for the house. Heavy, dull fabrics hold the first place among materials. Fabrics with & suede finish and those with a surface dered are important, and a new ma- terial ca'led malgache is shown with both plain and figured surfaces. % o | LMOST all the clothes were shown with suede gauntlet gloves. These | had rows of fine tucks on the upper side of the wrist and were buttoned on the outside with suede-covered buttons, The few elbow-length gloves worn with formal clothes had pearl buttons at the outside seam instead of in the usual place. Among the evening gowns were sev- eral worthy of mention. One of lace was embroidered all over with straw, which stiffened it like horsehair, as weli as giving it great brilllance. Three bznds of ostrich feathers about the hem |of anothcr gown gave it a slightly {bouffant and very graceful line. Gray georgeite was the fabric used for a dress with a sun-p'eated skirt. A wide belt | with sash ends at the center front was of emerald green velvet. With this gown was worn a gold-colored georgette coat with pleated flounces across the back shading through m'lnnnw Lreg‘ i Cleansing Ways. Gasoline s, of course, an excellent cleanser for various sorts of silk and | woolen fabrics that will not stand the |usual water and soap bath. But it is very, very foolish to attempt to use | gasoline in small quarters and gaso- line is a dangerous substance to have about. A great many sorts of woolen | material can be washed with water. Al- ways follow the rule of lukewarm water, avolding cold and hot water both in washing and rinsing. A soap bark solution should always be used in place of soap when washing dark woolens which might become streaked if soap were used. It is an excellent plan to have some soap bark always on for this purpose. If there are children in the family you will find it very use- ful in washing navy blue trousers, skirts and frocks. Corduroy trousers, such as most young hoys have for hard r in cool weather —to take the place of the khaki which they wear in Summer—may be washed | satisfactorily. This corduroy is a sort | of cotton velvet—it should not be rubbed | or squeezed, however. Here agaip “‘soz- ziing” in jukewarm water is the best plan. Rinse it in frequent baths of lukewarm water to remove dirt. It should not be wrung out to dry. How- ever, it may be run through an electric wringer without harm if.it is kept per- fectly straight and flat. Better still, l&ln‘rl‘t u) ‘é‘rgyl?t the Illsnd" After it lnwpecondi jon—never ironed. which looks as though it had been pow- | | T hionable New York Res Left: A black broadcloth suit and black hat, both accent- ed withe white chamois skin. Right: A navy blue cloth red- ingote over a frock of printed crepe. Short Sleeves in Suits 'HE short-sleeved suit, launched by, some of the Parisian designers lest | Summer, is this season an accepted American fashion Sometimes it seems | as though the speed with which some of the French fashions are adopted here is equaled only by the slowness with which others take hold. For last season American buyers had long sleeves incorporated into the short- sleeved French models which they bought. year, however, finds short-sleeved suits in the shops and at all the places where smart women gather. Gloves naturally are brought into the limelight by this short-sieeved mode. And the wise woman should remember that conservatism is the best policy | when buying gloves. No matter how | tempting the counters full of embroi- | dered, bespangled and bedizened gloves it is well to heed the mid-Victorian | maxim that a lady is known by he gloves, and eschew all overelaborate and ornate covering for the hands. At the moment the best glove is the long suede gauntiet with the wide, flar- ing top, which wrinkles down around the lower arm and wrist in a most lux- urious manner. If you can match your gloves with a handbag, you will achieve ’:n ensemble effect unequaled in fash- fon. Brown suede gloves and purse and a dark brown hat may be most effective with a beige wool suit. Or one may match some other detail of the €08~ | | tume, as did the wearer of a black broadcloth suit when she chose white | chamois skin gloves, a chamois vest, and, as a finishing touch, faced her hat' A black wool crepe dress, with a scarlet scarf, is worn with a coat of flat gray fur and a black hat faced with red. The navy blue wool crepe dress, trimmed with a cut-out pattern, is worn with a seal- skin coat. with the same leather, adding a bou- quet of whitz chamoic flowers for good M~asUTeRIE I (8 Very often, even if the sleeves of the coat are long, the gloves are worn eck. | over them to give a short-sleeved eff Two Jackets. Two jackets with one skirt are of- fered at some of the shops. You may, for instance, have a plaid skirt and s plain dark cloth coat with & silk co8t | own' for later wear or you may have a matching jacket and ~a contrasting jacket with a skirt of any color. In fact. the fashion for contrasting jackets is =0 prevalent in the new collections that we will be cble to produce wide variety in cur street costumes simply b;: changing about our skirts and jack- ets Fcr practical purposes a good plan |is to have a plain-colored suit of black or navy blue and two skirts, one to match and the other plaid. One of the $mart shops sells plain separate skirts to match long coats for Spring, thus giving the customer the chance of add- ing a suit to her wardrobe at the same time she buys a new Spring coat. b2 taurant Should Identify Your Possessions A stitch in time saves nine, and the truth of this adage is nowhere truer than where the stitch is taken to put identification marks on the more usual sorts of wearing apparel. An easy way to give stockings and socks of the vari- ous members of the family identifica- tion marks is to work a solid little circle of color at the back of the hem of each stocking, ueing a different hue of fast-color silk for this purpase. Thus one daughter may have red and another green, while the mother may have blue, The fact that you yourself can identify your own stockings and that mh&p‘ the daughters also know theirs not make such a precaution unnecessary. It is annoyig to have to call a family council every week when stockings are to be sorted. fnitials woven in tape are usually sufficient identificat: for pleces of lingerie—and these woven initials may also be used on shests. Some house- wives like to mark all houschold linen with the date of its purchase—so that the strength and reliability of such linens may be tested. This may be done by means of indelible ink; but un- less you are expert in using it you will have better luck with the woven initials. In a family where several persons have the habit of buying books it is well worth whil> to cultivate the habit of marking your own books. Where there are several children, it is not always easy to remember to whom each book belongs. Arguments may follow, but these are avoided if each child has his own individual book plate, which should be pasted into the book when it 1s new. Rubbers have an unfortunate way of getting mixed up. It is a very simnle thing to mark them, and much con- fusion may be avoided if this is done. A simple way is to cut off inch-long strips of adhesive tape. Mark a plece with the name or initials of the owner ing of each rubber. Umbrellas ought to be marked—if for no gther reason than to serve as a reminder of owner- ship. The initials on the handle an- swer this purpose. A strip of adhesive tape bearing the owner's name may be fastened to the rib of the umbrells in an inconspicuous place. Slight Changes in New Dresses Not so0 very different from the things you have been wearing. That will doubtless be your decision when you go shopping for your Spring wardrobe. Skirt lengths are about the same—with the same insistence on moderately short skirts for daytime and sports and longer skirts for more formal occasions. Belts and girdles still hover closely about the ncrmal waistline. There is the same trim outline in.the region of the hips, with the same suggestion of a flare, never exaggerated, below this line. Possibly you had expected something to which you would have to accustom yourself gradually. If you did e t any such drastic changes you will be disa) ited—and probably plm depressing that are so different we already leces. museum pieces. Yet the more you see these new dresses and wraps and suits and blouses for Spring, the more you real- ize that there really is quite a differ- ence after all. The diference is enmfl to make you feel sure that you will have to buy as many new clothes' as possible withcut feeling sunk in gloom concerning. the usefulness of the things you have on hand, The fact is that the difference lies not in silhouette or actual construction, but in fabric and finish. Dressmakers have c'mfit of interesf new ways of using materials with which we are already familiar. com! n;nnif ake you never make any of your clothes should by all means prepa; ready-made dresses, suits, etc. Brittle Hair. If for any reason, because of the weather or because of your health or because of neglect, your hair becomes dull or brittle, rub a little olive oil into the scalp with the tips of the fingurs. The oil must, of course, be sparingly used, else the hair will look greaay. Use it especially for several nigl ::.‘etm shampoo. You will notice the results in softer, better looking hair.