Evening Star Newspaper, March 2, 1930, Page 98

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, MARCH 2, 1930. IRVIN COBB ON the Long And Short of FASHIONS Flapper Styles Having Made Women Younger Looking, It Is Absurd to Think They Would Revert to Modes of Horse- Car and Kerosene- Lamp Era—7Tem- poofl imes Keeps Hemline Up. BY LILLIAN G. GENN. ¢ ¢ T SEEMS women are putting one over on the moguls of Paris,” grinned Irvin Cobb, famous author and hu- morist. “Who would have thought s it possible? “Last Summer the edict went forth for long skirts and, behold, skirts are still short! It is such an unbelievable, unprecedented event in the history of feminine fashion that I am still fearful lest some morning I may awake to find ~»women with skirts sweeping the dust.” He lighted a big cigar and settled himself on a comfortable divan to discuss milady's skirts. “At the beginning of the season,” he con- tinued, “the betting odds were in favor of Paris. Knowing woman's notorious weakness where sartorial eccentricities are concerned, I might confess that I had already resigned my- self to seeing women go mid-Victorian. I was sure they would never have the courage to re- sist the dictates of Paris. When in the Fall a few women began to be seen around town with trailing skirts, we males dutifully waited for the rest of the feminine world to follow suit. We had become accustomed to having women bow their necks to the he-dressmakers in Paris. “No one could have been more startled than the men when the first sounds of revolt rum- bled about us. Personally, I was sure it was a false alarm. Then a few brave feminine lead- ers came forward to voice their protest at the ridiculousness, the stupidity, the utter ab- surdity and the impracticability of the whole movement. Women immediately began to divide on the issue and the fashion battle was on in earnest. “FOR a few months hemlines zig-zagged at all lengths, but, on the whole, they bravely stuck to the knees. At this moment they give every indication of remaining there and the forecasts for Spring styles are for shorter skirts. While knees will fortunately no longer be ex- hibition points, ankles and points north will at least not be clothed in mystery. “When one give some serious thought to the Wnatter, it is incredible to think that because Paris wanted to help the manufacturers sell more goods, they should attempt to get woman to corset her figure again, cramp her body, hamper her movements and make a floor mop of her skirt. “It was all right for those he-dressmakers in Paris to create such monstrosities as bustles, mutton sleeves, hobble skirts, wasp waists and trains in the days when women were essentially creatures of the home. Embroidering a cushion or playing a piece on the piano was all the strenuous activity in which they engaged. Not one woman in 20, at that time, was a wage- earner or a devotee of sports. Since she did not know what it meant to ecatch a train for business or wield a golf club, she could simper around in cumbersome clothes without much detriment to herself or any one else. “Not only did she swathe herself in volu- minous skirts, but she wore at least four or five ruffled petticoats and a whale-bone corset. It was & wonder that she could move at all. In- deed, there used to be considerable speculation as to how she propelled herself. The result was that a gust of wind on a sireet corner was liable to cause a panic. Policemen were kept busy handling the mob on windy days. “It was absurd to believe that women would return to the mode of those days. The average woman today is either holding down a job in the business world or she is active in sports. Frequently she does both. The whole tempo of life is fast, and the quaint, old-fashioned styles are no more in keeping with this tempo than horse cars and kerosene lamps, They may look attractive in a picture, but no one would want to use them. “One of the things that I admire most about the girl of today is her desire to do something in the world. Even if she is a girl of means, she wants to engage in work of some kind. She also” tdkes advantage of every opportunity to enlighteni herself, whethér it is religion, art, politics or ‘morals, with the ‘result that she has'’ a broad knowledge of the world. .."lt is «coneeivable that. the he~duess- makers in Paris didn’t think of subways and “Even in the ball room, where the long gowns look charming, they aren’t prac- tical because they restrict a woman's movements.” crowded streets cars when they were letting down the hemline and making the style ‘ele- gant.’ Possibly, though, they assumed that women. would give up their jobs and stay home to keep up with the fashions. Or, perhaps, they them to their offices. “Bvlnlmmhne:lrmwube thankful for this season. If women had taken to wearing the new styles at work, they would have suffered a collapse which would have made the stock market crash seem in- significant by comparison. With women spend- ing valuable time trying to make trains and elevators without catching their sleeves and trailing skirts in the doorways or being forced to walk sbout at a snail's pace, not very much work would have been accomplished. I am sure there would have been many casualties, As it is, in the evening, when many women are wearing the new styles, they have difficulty in getting around. It wouid have been much harder to manipulate those frou-frous during the day. “After all, clothes must be suited for one's daily life; and if only for economic reasons, women were forced to revoit. They could not give their full attention to their work when dressed in the long, trailing skirts. A woman who is conscious of her clothes all the time and must constantly be careful of them is bound to have her work suffer—and her disposition, too. “Even in the ball room, where the long gowns look charming, they aren't practical, be- cause they restrict a woman’s movements. She can't dance with freedom if she fears that her skirt may tangle in her feet or that her Romeo may awkwardly trip on it. “But the saddest thing of all about the new eccentricities is that they add to a woman's age. Paris may claim that the ‘elegant’ styles are youthful, but only the very young girl can swallow that sales talk. The flapper style made a woman younger looking, and she would be foolish to change to a gown, with a coiffure to match, which added even one year to her ap- pearance. “It is more than mere vanity which prompts a woman to try to look as youthful as pessible. She knows that if she appears to be young it has a happy psychological effect on her spirit. She is inspired with the confidence and en- thusiasm of youth. In the business world and in some of the professions this is an important asset. Many a woman's livelihood depends on the fact that she looks young and she ean be grateful that the flapper clothes aid her to turn the trick. It would be nice, too, if the older man could get such assistance, “However, while I like the flapper style, I didn’'t at all care for the ultra forms of it which afflicted us last season. The very short skirts, the flat figure and the closely cropped hair weren’t a bit attractive. Few knee points could stand being exhibited to such a degree. While I think that American women have pretty legs, yet there are many who could bene- fit from a longer skirt. Possibly,” smiled Cobb, “these might be the women who indorsed the new mode so wholeheartedly. “At any rate, I'm relieved that legs will continue to be legs and not mysterious ‘Hmbs.’ Since the flapper style became fashionable legs have been regarded with the same equanimity as arms, which is the way it should be. The long skirts may make for feminine seductive~ ness; but ‘they ‘would destroy that splendid camaraderic which exists between the sexes 7, / /. \\‘ //fl m’“ Irvin S. Cobb, famous Americanm, novelist, declares that the mod- ern woman already has made so- ciety change many of its old ideas concerning her place in the busi- ness world and that now “those he-dressmakers in Paris will have to do the same.” today. I think a woman can be just as fem- inine and appealing in short skirts. And that's a man’'s view on the subject,” twinkled the author. Mr. Cobb was asked whether he thought that the old-fashioned mode of the nineties would bring about a return to dignity and manners, as their advocators are inclined teo believe. “I don’t see where the long skirts would have anything to do with it,” he answered. “During the greatest periods of licentiousness and loose- ness women wore the longest skirts, the highest coiffures and the biggest hats. Any one who thinks that a change in style might mean a change in manners is suffering from a delusion. “Men,” he continued as an afterthought, “are very much interested in women's clothes, be- cause they are naturally affected by them. However, I don’t suppose they are in any posi- tion to criticize or to pass judgment on them. Women, at least, are brave enough to change from one style to another. If anything, they try to outdo each other in being the first to wear a new mode. But we cowardly men can only cling to an antiguated, uncomfortable, un- hygienic and unbecoming style, “The effort made last Summer to adopt the Scotch pants or the pajama suits aroused a glimmer of hope in the hearts of men. Possibly in the course of another century or two we may be able to pluck up sufficient nerve to wear one of these models. If we could wear a com- fortable garment like the one I have om, it would be fine. But (rather mournfully) even I haven't the courage to go outside my door with it.” Cobb was costumed in a tan smock. It boasted of a soft turn-down collar, wide sleeves, big pockets and several large smoked-pearl but- tons. He has quite an assortment of these smocks, each in a different hue, and he cer- tainly looks the picture of content and comfort in them. Incidentally, he is not as unatiractive as the descriptions he has given us of himself would lead one to expect. He has, it is true, rather bushy, terrifying eyebrows, but their im- pressiveness is subdued by a pair of twinkling eyes and a ready smile. In addition, he is possessed of great charm and courtesy. THROUGHOUT the interview he was rather wistful on the subject of clothes. He ear- nestly wished that men could wear lighter weight garments in the street, especially in the Summer. Cobb once believed it would have been im- possible to suggest to a woman that she wear & simpler, more business-like dress to work. She insisted upon arraying herself as though she were going to a garden party. Today he finds that most women show better taste in their business clothes, particularly among those who hold higher positions. It is only the young girl who is just breaking into business who decks herself in a bewildering and colorful array of trinklets, bracelets and anklets. Evolution of the Zinnia. JT was a long trail a little Mexican daisy traveled, but eventually it arrived in this country and soon became one of the most pop< ular of garden flowers. During 'its travels, which took it to the West Indies and then to France, before returning here, it took on a new sophistication, and what was once a simple little roadside flower became one of the show- - iest of garden blooms, the zinnia.