Evening Star Newspaper, February 21, 1930, Page 39

FOOD PAGE. Fish and Shellfish in Menu Great Variations in Food Value Should Be Con- sidered in Preparin, Several tests can be lpgued to fish in order to determine whether it is fresh or not. The eyes should be bright and clear, not dull or sunken. e g:! should have a bright red color and flesh should be so firm that no dent will be made when it is touched with the finger. Fish may also be tested for freshness by placing in a n of water. If they sink, they are wh, but if they float, they are not fit to use. Some varieties of fish contain large quantities of fat and others contain very little, so that the food value of the different kinds varies. Fish con- taining a large amount of fat are salmon;: turbot, herring. halibut, mack- | erel, butterfish and lake trout. These make very desirable substitutes for meat. Some Kinds of fish have a higher food value than certain kinds of meat, namely, if the fish contains consider- able fat and the meat is very lean but on an average. of course, meat will be found to have a higher food value | than fish. On the whole, fish is more easily digested than meat, with the exception of a few kinds and certain | cuts. Fish is often used for the feed- ing of invalids or sick people when meat is not permitted. The kinds most easily digested are those that are lean. Best Ways to Cook Fish. Pish may be boiled, steamed, baked, broiled and also used for various kinds of bisques, chowders and other made es. The cooking method to select | depends largely upon the size, kind, | quality and flavor of the fish. A very | large fish should not be broiled unless | it can be cut into slices. steaks or thin pieces. A large fish should either be | stuffed and baked, or baked without stuffing, but when it is cut into slices, the slices may be fried, broiled or steamed. Unless the fish to be cooked is one that has a very strong flavor and will be improved by the loss of flavor, it should not be boiled. In any case, boiled fish should be served with a well seasoned sauce, such as lemon | cream or horseradish sauce. Steamed | fish does not lose flavor like fish that | has been boiled. Ieither does steam- add flavor. It is also necessary in ks case to add flavor by adding a sauce of some kind. Fish to be steamed should first be wrapped in cheesecloth laced in the steamer to an indication that it was cooked too fast. The water should be boiling when the fish is put in, 'but must only simmer gently , a5 fast boiling breaks the skin and outside flesh before the cooked. Too much water also | causes the fish to break. The water should only extend two inches above the fish. A little lemon juice should the water. Never boil steamed. Boiling large whole fish or thick pieces lerze fish. When baking fish, if a piece of , white cotton cloth is scalded, then thoroughly greased and the fish laid on it before it is placed in the baking Pun, then cooked as usual, it can be itted out of the pan onto a platter for serving without being broken. Pish for frying should be washed thoroughly, cut into inch-thick siices, then soaked for an hour or two in cold salt water before being m})lnd for frying. Always wipe fish perfeetly dry with a clean cloth before cooking in any way. Fry in dep fat, allowing plenty of room for each piece. Do not cover the pan with frying, as this will destroy the desired crispness. If the fish or seems to spatter a great deal when frying, turn a large sifter over the frying pan. This will protect from lr-twrlng. yet there will be an outlet for the steam. Deep-fat tryln, is especially suited to the frying of very small fish or slices of larger fish. ‘These should first be dipped in beaten egg. and then in crumbs or cornmeal to form a coating that will cling to their | surface. After being removed from the fat, they should be drained well before being served. Left-Over Fish. All left-over fish should be used in some way. It should not be used in any kind of soup except in a fish soup, such as fish chowder. Whether a fish has| been boiled, steamed, baked, fried, or prepared in any other way, it can al- ‘ways be made into croquettes. When used in this way, all the bones should be carefully removed. If the fish has been stuffed, the stuffing may be broken inte pieces and used with the fish. Dried and Canned Fish. In season when fresh fish are scarce, Salt and smoked fish are good to use. They are more economical because pound for 'Eound they contain more nutriment than the same fish when fresh, as all water is driven off in the drying. The methed of preparing dried or preserved fish, the same as with fresh fish, has much to do with the food value obtained from it. Just as nutritive value is lost in the cooking of meat by methods, 50 it may be lost in the preparation of fish if the right methods are not used. After being soaked for some time with the skin side placed uppermost, salt fish should be Slowy. ‘Tt Wil be-tough and leathery 3 w ugh and lea 1t cooked too fast. it Oanned fish comparatively chug TRIED NUMEROUS REMEDIZS Expresses Appreciation to Kellogg Company for Relief . of a thin If you are troubled with consti- | ation, this letter from Mr. John . Mulligan, 300 So. Cicero Avenue, Chicago, Ill., will interest you: his is simply & letter of appre. ciation for the wonderful r s 1 bave obtained through the of Kellogg's ALL-BRAN. “For years, in fact ever since my yeturn from Franc have en troubled with constipation and its companion ills. 1 tried erous remedies in vain. Finally in des- peration, not wishing to a slave 3 rned to AN. The results ‘were remarkable and quick—in fact the nmext day long-hoped-for relief became a happy reality.” The Kellogg Company has re- eeived thousands of similar letters in praise of ALL-BRAN, the pred- uect that is positively guaranteed to relieve both temporary and recur- ring constipation. It also adds needed iron to the diet and builds health. Eat Kellogg’s ALL-BRAN with milk or cream in soups, salads nng 1hru€tgui:§: - ‘.’in ed foods and hot breads. Your has AL%—BRASN ‘:d the mih‘-ncL udn ackage. Served everywhere. e Kgrozc in Battle Creek. B g Meals for Home. food, but should be used as soon as possible after the can has been opened, When considering the matter of waste, it is well to remember that in canned fish almost all the bones, skin and other inedible parts, except the tails, | heads and fins of very small fish, have | been removed before packing, indicating | that practically all the material pur- | chased is edible. In the case of fresh fich, a large percentage of what is bought must be wasted in preparation and in eating. Sardines are canned in | several ways, but are best when done in oil. Although most frequently used cold in many ways, they are also good when broiled. To cook this way, sprinkle with lemon juice, then broll as you would a large fish Sauces and Cocktails. A highly seasoned or highly flavored sauee should be served with any fish that is inclined to be .asteless. The acid of vinegar or lemon seems to assist in bringing out the flavor of fish, so when a sauce is not used, at least a | slice of lemon should be served with the fish. To serve with broiled fish, wash and slice some hard green tomatoes and soak them in salted water for several | hours. Dry, dip in beaten egg, and then in cracker dust or very finely ground dried bread crumbs well sea- soned, and saute in hot fat. Brown the slices quickly on both sides, then lower the heat and let them cook more slowly to soften. To serve with fried fish, melt half a cupful of good butter. Add to the but- ter one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, half a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a little salt, and a dash of paprika. Take a teaspoonful of this sauce and place it on the fish nfler; the fish is on the plate. This is very appetizing and makes a cheap fish an excellent dish. Cheese or egg sauce tastes good with baked or boiled fish. Horseradish or mustard sauce goes well with boiled herring. Serve lobster sauce with salmon. Crab-flake cocktail: Crab meat is| used for cocktails in the same way as| oysters, clams and lobsters are used.| To make crab-flake eocktail, remove | the meat from the shells of cooked hard-shelled crabs and chill it, then place it in stemmed glasses and serve with cocktail sauece. How to Serve Shellfish. Seallops may be fried or baked, lob- sters may be scalloped, used in cro- uettes and in other ways. Crabs and 8| ps may be creamed, used in salads, and in other ways. Clams may be used raw as a cocktall or be steamed, baked, or fried. Oysters may be baked, broiled, scalloped, fricasseed, carried, deviled, panned, grilled, made into croquettes, used in pies alone or with other fish or with meat, made into fritters, tarts, puddings, served with vegetables or eggs, used on toast. made into stuffing, used as a salad, spiced or’}:uled for a relish, or_baked in the shells. Intense long heat in cooking makes oysters tough, and in this condition they are neither agreeable to eat nor readily digested. Cooking quickly at a h temperature is the best method. e | secret of success in frying oysters is to | have a very hot pan, plenty of hot grease, and then watch them carefully, | turning each one separately with a fork. Cook quickly so that they will not absorb the grease. Serve with quar- tered lemon. Fried oyster supreme: Mix thoroughly & cupful of flour with half a cupful of milk, half a cupful of catsup and half a teaspoonful of salt, Dip one pint of oysters into the mixture, then roll the oysters in cracker dust and fry quickly in sweet, fresh lard until a dark brown. Serve very hot. Raw Oysters. Oysters that are to be eaten raw may be served in the shells or removed from them. The sauces to use are cocktail sauce, ¢l sauce, catsup, horseradish and Tabasco sauce. Some- times lemon juise or vinegar and er and salt are preferred to an: sauce. Crisp crackers, smail of toast, or wafers, with butter, are goc accompaniments to raw oysters any form, and sometimes celery and radishes are served with them, all de- pending upon individual taste, Hollandaise Sauce. Divide half a cupful of butter into two pieces. Put one plece into a sauce- pan with two egg yolks and one table- spoonful of lemon juice. Hold the saucepan over a larger one ng boiling water. Stir constantly until the butter is melted, then add the other piece of butter. Stir well until the sauce thickens. Remove from the fire, add one-fourth teaspoonful of salt and | a little cayenne pepper, then serve. | for Health sustains. is a_complete food in itself. Supplies dextrose, vitamins and iron. Get the genuine. Look for the name and the Crown on the package. All G Grocers Re- commend Golden Crown. Steuart, Son & Co., Inc. Baltimore, Md. Free Book of Southern Recipes will be sent to you on request. Pancakes, biscuits, toast, bread, etc., cover them with Golden Crown and you cover them with goodness---a flavory golden goodness that sweetens, A rare, mellow flavor due to s ing that's known and recognized as the True Southern Flavor. Golden Crown beats them all for goodne: Home in Good Taste BY SARA HILAND. Two articles which are an aid to| the home furnisher are shown in the illustration. The one at the top would be a joy fo any one living in a tiny apartment, where space, especially for dressing, is at a premium. { You see, all you have to do is to fasten it on the inside of a closet door and there you have a dressing table, | with all the necessary space for pow- der boxes, cream jars, etc, on the lower shelf, and plenty of room on the upper one for brush and comb. When you consider that the lower shelf is 17 inches long and 6 inches wide, it is easy to see how practical this piece would be. The container for shoes and stock- ings, shown in the lower part of the sketch, is ideal for an apartment or large house closet. It is made of maple in a rich honey finish and comes | in two sizes, one to take care of 6 pairs of shoes and 16 pairs of stock- ings and the other for 8 pairs of shoes and 20 pairs of stockings. Fig Muffins, Boil one cupful of dried figs for 10 minutes, drain, clip the stems, then chop the figs, Cream one-fourth cupful of shortening with a half cupful of sugar, add one beaten egg, three table- spoonfuls of molasses and half a cup- ful of water. Combine with two cup- fuls of flour sifted with four teaspoon- fuls of baking powder, half a teaspoon- ful of salt, half a teaspoonful of bakin, soda and half a teaspoonful each ol allspice and ginger. Add the figs, beat well, add three-fourths cupful of bread crumbs, mix, then pour into greased muffin tins. MENU FOR A DAY. BREAKFAST. Cereal with Dates. Plain Omels Bacon Curls. Graham Gems, Coftee. LUNCHEON. +Pried in Batter. iled Spinach. CflaL s, Cream Lemon Ple. Tea. T DINNER. Lamb_Stew. Boiled Pota Carrots and Pe ‘Watercress Salad. French Dressing. Squash Pie. Cheese. Coffee. GRAHAM GEMS. Two cups of graham flour, one cup of wheat flour, two tea- spoons of baking powder, one tablespoon of sugar, pinch of salt, one beaten egg. Mix with sweet milk to make a thin bat- ter. Beat well. Bake in well greased gem pans in a hot oven. TRIPE IN BATTER. Soak pickled tripe several hours in cold water, changing the water twice. Make a batter of one egg, pinch of salt, flour enough to make thin batter with one cug milk, one hn&nl tea- spoon baking powder. Wipe the tripe dry, dip in batter and fry in plenty of hot fat. LAMB STEW. Take three or three and one- half pounds meaty fore of lamb, have meat man chop six or seven times, cut off most all fat, remove outside skin, which gives a bad flavor; cut in small pieces, put in five or six quart saucepan half full of cold water., When this is hot, add five or six large onions cut fine. Bring again to a beil, add five or six large car- rots cut in small cubes, bring to a quick boil, then let boil slowly about three or four hours; then add five or six large potatoes, cut in small cubes. hen done, thicken with one teacup of corn flour and add one-half teaspoon of celery salt, one small table- spoon of salt. This is good warmed over several times. Add little butter and water to warm over. Food Variety Beyond That Of Our Richest Ancestors It may seem the most natural thing in the world to crave variety in food. “If only we could have something en- tirely new,” and “if only we didn’t keep having the same things,” are complaints heard in private homes as well as in boarding houses. Most of us seem to think that be- sides having a right to demand “life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness* we also have a right to expect wide variety in our diet. The old lady who makes her home with her son and daughter-in-law _complains at the mo- notony of the daughter-in-law’s eook- ing, and the boy in boarding school yearns for somethi different, from that which he is accustomed. * Before you let yourself join the ranks of the variety cravers, stop and ask yourself whether you really need or have a right to expect so much variety in_what you eat. Perhaps it is true that variety breeds DAILY DIET RECIPE SAUERKRAUT SALAD. Sauerkraut, one cup; grated raw carrot, one-quarter cup; grated onion, two tablespoons; green pepper, two tablespoons; mineral oil mayonnaise, two ta: b ns; salt, one-eighth tea- spoon; lettuce leaves, two. SERVES TWO PORTIONS. Mix vegetables together. Add salt and mayonnaise. Chill and serve on crisp lettuce. DIET NOTE. Recipe furnishes fiber, a great deal of lactic acid, lime, iron and vitamins A, B and C. Useful in laxative diet. Useful in reducing diet. Can be eaten by children of 10 years and over. Green pepper could be omitted if it did not agree. Can be eaten by adults of average, over or under weight. Dressing could be changed for those of average or under welght, if desired, but mineral oil mayon« naise is useful in laxative diet. Top | with Golden i and Faor ourishes and ful blend- True Southern Flavor! a demand for more variety. We Ameri- cans of this generation enjoy a variety ~—even the poorest of us—that was un- dreamed of even by kings and nebles in the days gone by. We somet overlook the fact that millions of per- sons still feed and thrive upon a diet that consists of one or two staple articles, with only a few other foods accessories. humble Scotchman and his family eat oatmeal every day of the year and still smack their lips over it. The Chinese never grows weary of rice, though he eats it for every meal. Our colonial ancestors in some sec- tions of the country often used to exist &erlodl with very little save bean porridge hot and cold. Cornmeal cooked in various ways often used to connw "‘,\’xuwnn only ee:ul of fluceolo- nists. Until very recent years most peo- ple have had to get along with only the fruits or vegetables that could be grown within their immediate territory. Really, we have enormous variety, or, at least, the markets and food stores 3 we do not take, advantage of it ‘e may be always complaining that we have 3o little vari- ety, and at the same time we may rank among those who are always unwilling to try anything new, ——— There is skating all the year around in a great cave in the Carpathian Mountains, near Dobsina, in Hungary, at & height of 2,230 feet. Even in Bum- mer the limestone walls of the cavern are always covered with frost-crystals. . THE STAR’S DAILY PATTERN SERVICE., Flares From Low Hipline. Clothes seem to be growing more and more luxurious every day. At ail fash- ionable gatherings the general atmos- phere denotes charming femininity, | which is really quite a treat, in flatter- ing new silhouettes which rather follow ;,he 1l.tlx'\e of the figure, as in atyle 0. 161, It is modified princess type that is equally suited to miss or matron is designed in sizes 16, 18, 20 years, 36, 38, 40 and 42 inches bust. The front in panel effect gives the figure the smart vertical line and slimness so essential to smartness this season. The circular skirt at either side and at the back is shaped snugly through hips with rippling fulness at hem which dips its sides, The bodice is beautifully molded in princess lines. A softly flaring collar of Vionnet neckline detracts from the breadth and makes this delightful princess dress suited to Iarger wome; Flaring _cuffs of sleeves are ull new and flatteringly feminine. Silk crepe, chiffon, crepe marocain fishnet, crepe satin and wool crepe smartly appropriate. For a pattern of this style, send 15 cents in stamps or coin directly to The Washington' Star'’s New York Fashion Bureau, Fifth avenue and Twenty-ninth street, New York, ‘We suggest that when you send for fnnam you inclose 10 cents additional for copy of large Fashion Magasine. Chocolate !lm Chocolate added to blanc mange gives it an excellent flavor. Yor a sauce, custard is the best. Mix one-third cup~ -ful of sugar with one-fourth cupful of cocos - and one-fourth teaspoonful of salt and moisten with milk. Place over the fire in the inner pan of a double boiler and let come to a boil. Moisten one-fourth cupful of cornstarch with a little milk, m add two cupfuls of milk to the cocoa mixture in the double boiler. Heat together in the boiler and stir the cornstarch into this. Continue stirring until the cornstarch has thiek- ;l.“‘ h:h:u mlxmmxf, th:n aounkul:r:huut minutes. ove from add half ful of 2 teaspoon! vanilia, pour & mold moltensd with eold rotep -4 | and -serve with ned cream, eus- tard nuce.‘ u: h:un;euh;:g with sliced ba- NANas ane with whipped cream, R o The Coffee that Tastes Best WhiteHouse "AFINER FLAVOR . Packed in Tins HEREVER You Go You Find Blue Ribbon Malt Extract the | 5oon_an Meager Dinner Redeemed ‘When Good Soup Is Served BY SALLY MONROE. It is really possible to make up al- most any deficlency, either of food value or of quality in taste, by means of a properly chosen soup. Jlere are some recipes that may help you in your task of choosing the right soup, Soups of Dried Peas or Beans—Pick and soak split peas, dried as or black or white beans over night. Drain, measure, add four times as much cold water; to each quart of water one- half onion. er slowly till soft. Rub w sieve. Return to fire, ses son with salt and pepper; for each qua thicken with one teaspoon each butter and flour, Boil up again for a few minutes, Black bean soup should also have a pinch of mustard and a little lemon juice added and slices of hard- boiled eggs. Ofl‘fl'!l.ou .—One ox tail. two pounds lean beef, four carrots, three onions, thyme and parsley, pepper and salt to taste, four quarts cold water. Cut tail into joints, fry brown in good drlyap\n], Slice onjons and two carrots and fry in the same when you have taken out | the pieces of tail. hen done, tie the | thyme and parsley in net bag and drop | into the soup pot. Put in the tail, then the beef cut into strips. Grate over them two whole carrots, pour over all the water and boil slowly four hours; strain and season; thicken with brown flour wet wlthdeold water; boil 15 min- utes longer and serve. Julienne Soup.—Three pints of stock, one small onion, one small carrot, six lettuce leaves, one teaspoon of sugar, one tablespoon of butter, one tablespoon of peas, one tablespoon of lima beans, salt and pepper to taste. Scrape the carrot and cut into pieces with & veg- etable cutter. Brown the onion (sliced) in the butter, add the carrot and the sugar; stir until the sugar is dissolved, then add the peas, beans and stock. Simmer gently until the vegetables a: tender. Shred the lettuce leaves, cover with boiling water and let them stand for two minutes. add to the vegetables in the stock, season and serve Crecy Soup.—One small onion, two cupfuls of earrois, one teaspoonful of sugar, four cups of good, rich meat stock, one tablespoonful of flour, one tables] ful of butter, one tablespoon- rice; salt and pepper to taste. After scraping and washing the car- rots cut the outer part in small pieces, rejecting the yellow center. Brown the onion in the butter, add the flour and brown. Add the carrots and the rice and cover with two oupfuls of boiling salted water. Cook until both carrots d rice are very tender; press r.hroglh a sieve. Add the stock to the s with the sugar, salt and pepper. Heat to bolling point and serve & Soup for-Lunch—A good soup, with plenty of bread and hutwr—&mly of soup, of course, and hot—followed by frult, makes & very satistying cold- weather luncheon. If you don't realize this, try the combination some . day id see. Here are some soups Isque.—One can tomatoes, one cupful oatmeal, one onion, one stalk oelery, three pints water; boil two hours, strain and add one pinch sods, lump butter, one teaspoonful each salt and sugar; boil 15 to 30 minutes. Savory Rice—To one quart can of boutllon, or four cupfuls of stock, one cupful of cooked rice, a bay lea inch of celery seed or some celery @ clove or garlic, and auuw m}o | sauce over them, and then bake until | white sauce, or to top it with crumbs FOOD PAGE. yolks of two eggs beaten smooth in a cup of milk. A'}:‘izn‘ this week’s interesting queries this: “Please tell me a good recipe for baking onions. I have eaten them and like them, but don't know how to prepare them."—Lydia. ere are several good ways of bak- ing onions. One is to boil them till drain them, place them in a buttered ?slung dish and pour white brown. Another is to add cheese to the before baking. ‘Then there are stuffed baked onlons, prepared by removing some of the center of the onion after it is cooked and adding a little bread crumbs and | nut meats, well seasoned with melted | butter, then baking the onfons 10 or 15 minutes, basting with melted butter and boiling water. Less than 25 years ago aluminum | cost $90 a pound in contrast to 20 cents a pound today. Alumina, from which | aluminum is obtained, is the most | (o Household Methods BY BETSY CALLISTER. Preparing Soup. Soup is doubtless one of the oldest standbys of food. In its oldest forms, of course, it was served as the mainstay of the meal. A big bowl of soup with bread, and per- haps some onions and cheese, still forms the mainstay of diet in peasant homes. ‘The more modern, more sophisticated WAy is to use soup as something to tempt rather than to satisfy the appe- tite at the big meal of the day. A bowl of thick soup is still often served for luncheon. But for dinner the soups ‘that whet but don't satisty are ones chosen. i For that reason the clever hostess does not serve dried bean soup for dinner—unless dinner is a rather meager meal. Nor does she serve a thick, rich cream soup. To be sure, cream soups served occasionally as the first coufse at din- ner. But they are delicately made and they are served in small portions. A small bouillon cup not more than two- thirds full of cream mushroom 15 indeed' a_tempting dinner dish—a that makes the appetite crave more * undant base in nature. times hear that is “as good as Bread unless it Fashions of Today BY MARIE SHALMAR. Stockings Ineonspicuous. PFashion in her present mood looks with disfaver not onl: leuous shoes,. but on stockings attract attention. Because we are so thoroughly tomed to stockings of & beige or flesh tone, or flesh our stockings re- main. Stockings of a tone to match the dress might theoretically be less conspicuous than those of the lighter sort, but their very novelty would ‘attract attention. Grldunl'l’{. however, stockings are be- coming darker. Stockings that you have not worn for several months btles strike you as unbelievably light whe you unroll them, and if you actually wear them you feel uncomfortably aware that most of the well dr wearing tones darker. food instead of satisfying. it: some other loaf Bond Bread.” When people want to speak in the highest terms of anything, they say that “it is as good as gold.” Of course, it is not as good asgold unlessitis gold, and no bread can be asgood as Bond is Bond Bread. After all— there is no bread like GENERAL BAKING COMPANY igestib'e as milk itself ! 'olvullqdd,c! 3 h interest to uym s fine for It’s new! this delicious chees cheese perfection never before at- tained! Rare flavor . . . tenderness. Kraft-Phenix’ new cheese food — Velveeta. Mellow and delicious with all the nutritional elements of milk retained. Milk-sugar, calcium and minerals. The process protected by patent. Velveeta is sowholesome and digestible KRAFT that grownups Toast with it. The Delicig e flavor . and children can eat it as often and as freely as they please. Velveeta spreads on bread like butter and slices when chilled. Cook with it. - Velveeta comes in half pound packages. Try:it today. Kraft-Phenix Cheese Corporation, Makersof “PHILADELPRIA” Cream Cheese. New Chee}e Food