Evening Star Newspaper, February 5, 1928, Page 56

14 THE SUNDAY S 3 Dy D. €. FEBRUARY TAR. WASHINGTON, < . 1928—PART THE WAISTLINE HIGH AT ON SIDE AND LOW AT THE OTHER } IS SHOWN IN THE SATIN FROCK ABOVE. BY MARY MARSHALL. VERYWHERE one hears the an- nouncement that for the Spring of 1928 there will be a really new fashion. That mythological creature whom we call Dame Fashion must have made a New Year resolution to throw away all her old clothes and appear in something ab- solutely new—and where fashions are discussed here and abroad there is an air of expectancy. and really hopeful expectancy. such as has not been felt for a good many years. Yet when you come to get right down to brass tacks, no one seems to be able to mention anything especially new. The higher waistline. more fem- inine fashions, a more moided sil- houette, longer skirts, flares, fuller siceves, a development of the cape motive—all germs that have been in the air for several seasons. Well, per- haps the period of incubation is about over and we may be ready for a real sttack of these new fashions. And here let me pass on a bit of per- sonal advice sent to me from our Paris correspondent that 1 think is well worth taking. “If you have any really short-skirted frocks left—skirts that are skimpy and all means wear them now if you can possibly do 50. You may be able to get away with it now—but six months from now I am convinced that the old short scant | skirt will be quite out of date save (of{ strictly sports purposes.” For several years fashions really have moved very slowly and most of us have | become used to the situation, forgetting | the ante-bellum days when it was taken as a matter of course that last season's frock would have to be done over entirely if #t was to be worn with, any satisfaction again. Those of us who can remember the years when fashions changed rapidly must admit that while there is a certain comfort in the slower fashion tempo we have re- cently enjoyed there was something enormously stimulating in the real changes to which we were treated every six months. And perhaps—who knows?—perhaps | we are about to enter into another period of more quick!: lons Though bouffant hips may be seen here and there in evening frocks, no statement about the new fashions could ©e truer than that hips are to remain snug. This snugness it achieved ‘n many ways—by the long snug tunic. by & closely drawn sash or girdle, by snaped yokes and by skilifully arranged arapery. A surprising fact 1 many observers t the new clothes is the renewed n in figured materials. There sre small figures of intricate sort, futu- derigns. dots of all sorts, large and and those large floral designs most of us thought were entirely all eome 1 save some of the period frocks and sumc the afternoon frocks For sporis ciothes wear and general daytime wear nowever. the straight hemline 1 choen Orne hears reference 1 the widened Bometmes in seeing some 2e one looks in vain W t might e called add- 1y it s al it never w 1w found at the bipline s enug ususlly as e Lhat might be ca Jit the new sleeves the width is Dot always emsy U see o Gefine, but after s 1o Srocks one ecomes pertectly aware Lhat i nevertheless There are spreading nembnes circslar insets ¥ide or front, founces ruffies. plests 8t wnd U spread &t the lower edge of ‘ne siort new | THE SLIGHTLY MOULDED BELT- LES ILHOUETTE 1S EMPH! SIZED IN THE DINNER GOWN OF VELLOW LACE BELOW. i i 4.5 ity 2 S Our Paris correspondent still insists that there really is no tendency to dis- card short hair among fashionable women in France. At any rate those who e kept their hair or for some reason | have aliowed it to grow do their best | to tuck it under so that no one would suspect it. And I am also assured that | despite the ‘more molded waistline and the longer skirts and the frills and | flounces, smart French women are not | at all inclined to give up the slim. | youthful silhouette and that practically all the coats designed for Spring have come back to straight outlines. | The newest coats are usually made | sans fur—but this ought not to be un- | favorable to the furriers since the lack of the attached fur collar leaves room for a separate scarf of fox or ermine or possibly sable. The three-quarter coat which was heralded Jast Autumn is a fact at last and the dressmakers— among those who have been explollln? it—seem at least to have persuadéd well dressed women that it really looks smart In passing—have you noticed that the | useful smock is worn shorter than it | was—shorter and somewhat scanter? It | no longer completely hides the frock | but shows a goodly glimpse of that gar- ment. Do I hear some one asking about | colors? 1 hope I do, because 1 am impa- tient to hand on my enthusiasm for {some of the Spring street ensembles I have seen that made use of the black and green combination—with a bit of white in some of them. The green, of course, is the pea soup variety soft and creamy and easy o wear, an the black is of the solid real black that this tone assumes when displayed in the new dull faced tweeds and other woolen materials. The skirts of the little tatlored suits ! that the smart Parisian usually chooses | for street wear in Spring give the ef- is a suggestion of a flare, and they are still short. The magpie combination of black and white is coming rapidly o the fore and for the women who find this a trifie hard black and beige com- binations are a good selection. A new frock from Nicole Groult has a skirt of black silkk ottoman with a long tunic buttoned up at the |a V neckline and a decided blouse above | the waistline Perhaps this front blouse should be mentioned as one of the probable new fashions. A red crepe de chine frock bearing the signature of Loulise- boulanger had a skirt shirred around the hips a crush girdle at the hips and a blouse that really does blouse al across the front Keeping one eye on Parls and an- other on fashions in this country i enough to make any fashion reporter mentally rather wall eyed—especlally at present when American women— particularly the younger American wom- en—are s definitely disposed to adapt Paris fashions W sult themselves. For one thing the younger women here are definite’y determined to revive long- haired fashions. And they have been for several seasons the leading expo- nents of the bouffant type of period fiock. At one of the smartest private dances in Palm Beach held recently more than half the frocks actually reached the floor and almost all the rest were of ankle length Walstlines were clearly di and the contour of the hips was very frequentlly ex- tended by means of puffs and gathers Can it be that the younger American woman —having gained her reputation for ultra-modernism - has turned right i Berry Faorier! Lo cw 610 13th fect of straightness even when there | back—with | & Company at 1th ¢ Diamaonds earls Silie Really New Ideas Are Promised by Fashion f T WOULD BE HARD TO FIND TWO SILHOUETTES MORE DIFFER- T THAN THAT OF THE MID-VICTORIAN ) THE ULTRA MODERN DOWN-AT-] about face and is now bent on a Victo- rian revival? Another tendency among cert | American young women, ‘that until quite recently has made no impres. whatever on French fashions. is that of wearing hats off the forehead. They have apparently determined to show | the forehead and quite recently 1 have i heard that one or two of the French milliners are permitting a bit of the brow to show also. Just at present—I am told—one sees many knitted chenille skull-caps on | the streets of Paris. The effect, hey | say. is exactly like that of tiny strands | of braided hair. especially when the chenille is of a possible hair color | The caps are very close fitting and completely hide the wearer's own hatr —so that at first sight you may imag- |ine the wearer is going about bare- headed. One of the most amusing of the new printed silks has a black background more than half covered with irreguiarly arranged and overlapping white cnve- | lopes provided each with a red printed stamp in one corner. The envelopes. which look as if they had been fairly | thrown around. are each about two | inches in length { The material was chosen by Lelong {of Paris to make an unusual Leach | ensemble for the Rivicra—a pair of short white trunks of white silk—a.slip on top plece of the black. white and red letter design, with a V neck out- lined in white silkk—and a sleeveless coat of the same printed silk extending to the knees—lined with white silk. vright 19781 | Don’t Wear Wool When Cooking Cotton and linen are the best mate- rials for the housewife’s house . frocks— and silk s decidedly to be preferred to | woolen. In cold weather, when you pos- | sibly feel the need of some woolen about | you. you should always take the precau- tion to wear a cotton smock over the woolen frock or sweater when you are | working in the kitches, and if you em- ploy a cold-blooded cook who wears woolen frocks, it is well to provide her with some sort of all-enveloping apron or smock of cotton for kitchen wear Because wool absorbs odors and grease more than any other material, the woolen frock worn uncovered for any length of time where cooking is go- | ing on is not at all the sort of thing | that the cook or cooking housewife | ought 1o wear | Wool, you should remember, is an ani- {ma: fiber and when saturated with cook- ing smells and the particles of grease | that float in the air where frying or roasting of fatly meats is going on, ac- | tually becomes a very comfortable place | for bacteria to lodge Even for ordinary house wear—out- | s1de the kitchen—woolen frocks should be frequently aired and thoroughly | brushed It is a trifie inconvenient always to don a cap when you go into the kitchen w cook, yet it is also inconvenient to | have one’s hafr brought Into direct con- | tact with the grease and vapor laden | atmosphere of the kitchen | When brooms were used instead of | vacuum cleaners and carpet sweepers, | | and all-over carpets ook the place of | the present bare floors and rugs, the housewife or particular housemaid wore | | & dust cap as a matter of course when engaged In any sort of cleaning But now that there iy not such a flurry of dust during cleaning as there used to e, the dust cap has been forgotten and many a housewife does 1oL even pos- sews one, W hitmore Ji St " catcd o | hew Store . N.W 3 » ricare 1 EN AN YET BOTH ARE REPRESENTED 1 THE FIRST IS K SHOWN AT CENTE FRA LAC BLAC LEFT. FULL-SKIRTED FROCK { EVENING FROCK, N THE FROM [t PLIFIED IN THE LANVIN FROCK OF AND THE SECOMD IN THE FROCK OF Kk TULLE TRIMMED WITH BANDS OF BLACK VELVET AT AT RIGHT. BLACK VELVET FROCK FROM PARIS. or Presen THE OVERBLOUSE EFFECT MAY BE DEVELOPED WITH A HIGH OR LOW WAISTLINE. THE BELT OF THE LAME BLOUSE BELOW ;.;'ml'L,\(JED JUST ABOVE THE THE EMBROIDERED CHIFFON FROCK ABOVE IS BELTED AT THE NORMAL WAISTLINE AND };IBOLERU OF THE SAME AL. HAS MATE! | Demands of the Sweet As you approach a restaurant or tea- room after a hard morning in the office or shopping, how tempting the candies, cakes and cther sweets in the shop win- dows look to yo You are exhausted your sysem seems to crave this y assimilable sort of nourishment n, after you have had your luncheon of a wisely chosen salad, soup or light t and vegetable dish. with a little sert, you pass the same sweet shops and. much to your surprise, the cakes and candies look quite different You v hanker for them at all. Their power to tempt you usually varies in- ely with the satisfaction derived from your luncheon In some ca: of course, a craving for sweeis is a perverted sort of taste that ought not to be heeded. But with chil- dren and aduilts very generally a han- kering after sweets usually indicates the need for food. You should always bear in mind, too. that this sugar hunger. «or sweet tooth, is as old as the race, but that a supply of free sugar such as we now get is of comparatively recent origin. Until a comparatively recent | time the sweet tooth had to be gratified to a very great extent by means of sweet fresh or dried fruits—so. in a way, our sugar hunger should be inter- preted as a craving for fruit and fied by means of fruit to a very grea extent Meantime, some concentrated sugar is good for almost all of us, and 1t is the duty of every housewife in planning her meals to satisfy this craving so at | meals that it will not hang over the heads of members of her family, invit- g them to be nibbling candies all day long 1 know some women who serve as few sweet things as nossible at meals be- cause, they say, they know their c! dren will get all the sweets that are good for them in the form of candy and sweet beverages between meals, so it is better not to give them more at home Really, it seems to me as if it would be a lot better to provide them with nour- whing foods a-plenty at meals, with something sweet at every meal, than to send them forth a prey to every candy tore and soda stand they pass ‘The meals this week have been planned with the aim of showing how the sweet tooth may be satisfied at every meal in a manner that 1s gen- erally wholesome, save to quite young children and invalids. At breakfast it | is always best to take cereal without | sugar. Something sweet should be of- | fered in another form | | t Oranges, suggested for breakfast on | Monday. are usually best served with- out sugar, and strawberry jam as a second spread for tomst is offered to | provide additional sweets 1f desited. For luncheon on Monday you have canned fruit and gingersnaps, and chocolate | pudding for dinner dessert 2 Ground Health Women’s Discontinued Lines and Broken Sizes All Sizes and Widths, But Not in Every Style Grouped for Clearance 655 58 'S $12.50 Black Satin Three-Straps in Large and Small Sizes Stach’s Ground Gripper Shoe Shoppe 1315 E Street N.W. National Theater Bldg. Tooth | Should Be Satisfied Every Day | aemiti s an of the resuiat rou Tuesday, canned figs. which are usu- ally very sweet, with slightly sweetened graham gems hould satisfy the de- mand for sweets at breakfast. Canned pears in the salad for luncheon should provide enough sweets, since a decidedly | rich dessert—coffee Bavarian cream—is offered for dinner dessert. Baked apples, somewhat sweetened. and orange marmalade for breakfast on Wednesday are followed by sweetened | hot chocolate for luncheon and apple pie for dinner. Thursday's sugar ra- tions are supplied with stewed prunes. shightly sweetened, and maple sugar for breakfast: canned chipped pineapple for luncheon and floating island for dinner dessert. Bananas contain con- siderable sugar and are suggested for the bit of sweet for breakfast Friday Grapefruit. suggested for salad at luncheon, does not contain much sugar. so for those who demand more sugar it may be served in the form of fruit cup with sugar added, and the sugar cook- ies will complete the meal's quota of sweet At dinner pineapple tapioca pudding satisfles the body's demand for | fruit as well as sugar. i Apple sauce and slightly sweetened muttins—Sally Lunns—are planned to | give satisfaction to the sugar tooth at | breakfast Canned fruit and sweet wafers give perhaps more than is need- ed at luncheon, while date and apple | salad for dinner provide only a mod- erate amount. Grapefruit. which is not very sweet suggested for breakfast on Sunday, is complemented by the honey offered with the waffles. Give to your complexion a charming, soft, youthful freshness. This delicate, re fined touch of adorable beauty is yours to command thru Gouraup's ORIENTAL CREAM Made in White - Fleah - Rachel 4 for Tral Size T. Hookins & Sof New York City Gripper Shoes 85 $Q.85 % Drinking Water With Meals D:)esn't Cause Overweight or Indigestion with meals might retard digestion, espe- cially if the water is iced and used as a labor-saving device to spare one the trouble of chewing. Very doctors tell us, are not espec: at any time. But 1 have it on the au y of one doctor who has really studied out the situation that for mast water that is not ice cold and is not used in lieu of proper mastication mav be drunk at meaitime without any in- juryatall. And asa great many never think of drinking water bet n meals, and have a natural thirst for it with meals. this habit of water drinking with meals is rather beneficial than otherwise. At one of the fashionable bug strict girls' boarding schools there is % rule that every girl must. on sitting down to breakfast, drink slowly an entire glass of water. tine of the day. Undoubtedly this regulation is based upon advice of some good doctor. Prob- | ably no one disputes the value of the glass of water drunk some time before breakfast. though many persons regu- | larly drink it on first getting up The -statement is. of course, fre- | quently made that water should not | be drunk with meals. “Plenty of water between meals” is an oft-repeated bit of advice. To drink with the meals is often said to be conductive to fat Most persons believe that it is. 1 have not been able to find But both of these bits of information | to tell me why water drinking a are things that we take on hearsay. It ' could cause one to gain weight is not difficult to see why drinking water | I do know of a number of au | often is better not to one meals And cannot find w ing jobs as automobile o nies with be EVEN LOVING HANDS MAY SPREAD DISEASE ct germs off hands to guard family health .use the toilet soap that ‘Our_t/; s as it (‘[mn.re: WHAT wouldn't daddy do'to keep his precious litcle one happy and healthy! Yet. .. this very moment he may be exposing her to the danger of disease. For daddy's hands may be hiding germs ~—germs that may very quickly pass over tothose little hands— and reach her mouth. Watch out for germ-laden hands Everywhere today health authoridies are warning parents againse this danger. Germy, they say, get on hands from many things we wast touch—telephones, trolley straps, door-knobs, toys, money. The Lite Extension Institute lists 27 germ diseases that hands may carey home— x s shss way. 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