Evening Star Newspaper, September 28, 1924, Page 69

BY MARY MARSHALL. HE Autumn bride wisely chooses an ensemble costume for her trousseau, whether that trousseau s Jarge enough to fill a dozen trunks and 10 hat hoxes, or can be packed comfort- ably in a small steamer trunk and & bandbox from the milliner's. In the trousseau chosen by an Au- tumn bride who has had to count her dollars carefully the ensemble cos- tume does yeoman service as an after- noon or informal dinner gown with a coat that may be worn with the frock for afternoon receptions and other rather informal occasions, or may be used separately as an afternoon and evening wrap. The lining and long tunic are of printed crepe de chine in coral color with soft blue designs, the coat and skirt are of black vel- vet, while soft gray fur forms collar and cuffs. The skirt is mounted on a crepe slip—the velvet extending only to the knees. For the young woman who contrives to avoid the complica- tions of a formal church wedding— the veil, train, orange blossoms and the rest—the ensemble makes a suit- able “going-away" costume in which to_be married. White satin knows no real rival as a material for the bridal gown. To be sure, white velvet has been launched as something of a novelty for Autumn and Winter brides, crep are chosen by many brides-to-be, and lace has its admirers. But the con- ventional, formal choice is usually satin. Lanvin has chosen this fabric to make a charming bouffant wedding gown with just a suggestion of flesh colors besid. 1t has a long. fu gathered skirt with a train More to the taste of the well bred French woman at the present time is the draped, straightline wedding frock, not very different from the gown chosen a vear ago—long- sleeved, fairly high at the neck, en- tirely circumspect For the bare- armed, jazzy wedding dress that looks as if it had been designed for a wedding scene in a musical comedy makes_litte appeal to the really weil bred French woman. Frivolous and fantastic as may be the other frocks and costumes in a French girl's trous- seau, her wedding dress is almost al- of a conservative sort. a wedding gown of truly French characteristics, but one that might be well chosen by the American bride, the sole trimming is & gar- land of orange blossoms at the left hip. To add anything else would be to detract from its smart simplicity. The skirt is fairly short—shorter than was the custom with wedding dre: a year or six months ago. ‘The train hangs from the shoulders and the veil of lace is arranged to extend almost to the edge of the train. * ok * % HE question of negliges difficult for the bride who can afford a dozen or so. She may in- dulge her whim for all sorts of odd and picturesque little garments. She may have a lounging pajama suit of black satin trimmed with white; she may have a scarlet velvet breakfast coat, trailing, lace - trimmed tea gowns. negligees for every hour of the day and every mood. But for the girl who must limit herself in this regard there is nothing more sat- isfactory than the time-honored neg- lige of rose or fleshcolor georgette trimmed with lace. It is forever be- coming, and the distinguished de- signers of negliges here and in France have never found a substitute for it in general becomingness and allure. In spite of wise admonitions, most brides still—who can possibly afford to do 80, and many who cannot—have too many frocks rather than too few. It is far wiser to reserve a little trousseau money for a mew frock or 80 a few months hence. This is very good advice just now, when it seems to mose observers that we are at the eve of some rather radical fashion Things not ABOVE: EVENING FROCK OF ORCHID SILK WITH VELVET RIB- BON IN DARKER SHADE FOR TRIMMING. CENTER BRIDAL FROCK OF WHITE SATIN, THE ONLY TRIMMING BEING A GAR- LAND OF ORANGE BLOSSOMS ON THE LEFT HIP. RIGHT: BLACK VELVET COAT AND SKIRT WITH TUNIC AND COAT LINING OF CORAL. AND BLUE CREPE DE CHINE. THE COLLAR AND CUFFS ARE OF SOFT GRAY FUR. Tolie C‘Q“ISWOLA"‘__‘ changes. No use trying through prophetic eyes and tell just | what styles will persist. For the sake of smartness, however, remember that the tenden at present is for shorter skirts. Except in an occasional rather freaky period frock every- thing recently shown by the big| French dressmakers has been well | above the ankles, even for evening wear, and dancing frocks as much as 16 inches from the floor have been to look | worn recently. Straight, slender and tubular we remain, though there scems 10 be a distinct tendency on the part of new clothes to suggest the outlines of the figure without actually indicating anything resem- bling a walstline. Through clever manipulation of an underarm seam or the arrangement of the drapery the curve of the bust is frequently suggested. Americans. especially young Ameri- Which Are The World’s Strangest Ranch How would you like to run a lion ranch? This sounds like a fairy tale. but such a ranch really exists—near Los Angeles. As you approach the ranch you hear a muffied roar, which you might imagine to be a rumble of distant thunder, or a threatening earthquake about to break forth, but it is only Numa, the big lion talking to his large family. Mr. and Mrs. Gay, the proprietors of this unique ranch—or farm—are deeply, very actively interested in the raising of this strange “stock,” and are wonderfully successful. Mr. Gay, himself “raised” among the hills of France, has spent most of his life caring for and training wild animals, and therefore is quite able to under- stand their peculiar traits and habits. The present stock, which numbers 50, consists of 6 full-grown lions, the rest being of varfous ages and sizes, down to the 3 new babies, but a few days old. Unlike kittens, their eves are open at birth, but they cannot see well until about 10 days old, and are then fed from 6 weeks old, and are then fed from the bottle on goat's milk, but very soon begin to eat flesh. Their meals then consist of flesh, sometimes eggs —b¢ which they are especially fond— and they drink milk and water. These lions are usually groomed every day, and the cubs wear as silky R coat as a carefully combed and brushed puppy. A lion sheds his coat ard mane as does a dog. _ The cubs are teachable, though per- haps not so intelligent as the dog. They are playful as kittens, mis- chievous as pupples. These small animals are usually quiet at night, unless the weather is unpleasant, when they make known their discomfort by uneasiness. If they take cold, as sometimes happens, they are taken into the rarch house and cared for by Mrs. Gay's own hands. Pull maturity is reached at 8 years, and at the longest the. dion lives but 30 to 35 vears. The mild, sunny climate of Cali- fornia suits the lion's warmth- loving nature, and ir. his clean, com- fortable compartment—a cage set several feet above ground—his huge body stretched out, massive chin resting on motionless paws, he loves to lie and watch with half-closed eyes the antics of his offspring. He appears profoundly content, but never quite so domesticated as his wife. We are apt to think of the lion as a fierce, cruel, hungry creature, always wanting to lunch on people, but this is not generally true. He seldom attacks man unless very hungry, or in defense of himself or family. In fact, he is capable of great love and devotion. A lion was once attracting crowds because of this trait, faithfulness. Some weeks before his mate had died, and the poor fellow was so cast down with grief, so inconsolable, that he refused to eat or drink. Reduced to skin and bones. he lay with closed eves, occasionally emitting a rum- bling groan. With great effort he would now and then stagger a few feet, only to sink down with a ter- rible, heart-rending groan. His care-taker was in despair, and as soon as possible a new matc was found for him. For a time he took no notice of her, but at length a little interest dawned in his eyes. He grew gradually better; life seemed a little less unbearable, and at last her presence was accepted. Mr. Gay has a name for every lion, from Numa, the oldest, down to Baby Lady, the youngest cub excepting the three late arrivals. There are also Princess, Nigger, Peter, Of Wog, Slats, and many others. One might wonder why such care and pains are taken to raise and tame these wild-natured animals, but the film companies have created a great demand for their pictures, and the camera man is an interested visitor at the ranch. They are also rented out to “shows,” though oc- casionally some animais are sold out- right to circuses. The last are al- ways parted from with real regret. Is it possible that a lion has a sense of humor? On one occasion you would almost have believed he had. A photographer at the ranch was preparing to take the picture of Mr. Gay posing before the camera, but when his head emerged from under the “black cloth” the terrified artist found a lion had taken the man’'s place, and sat calmly awaiting the proceedings. The photographer began dancing a frangic jig behind his apparatus, while the lion actually seemed to gri Opliging. He (standing in front of the mir- ror—Watoha lookin’ at? Other—Nuthin'.” He—"Oh, all right. I'll move over so you can see better. —_ Ought to Fit. Customer—I want a couple of pillow cases. Clerk—What size? Customer—I don’t know, but I wear a size 7 hat, cans, seem to have had a hunch that waistlines were going to be higher and smaller. They seem to have wearied of the long waist and the low-placed girdle. Makers of girdles and belts report now that the demand is noticeably for smaller sizes, and makers of women's frocks find it in- advisable to place the loops for girdle or belt about the hips as they did last Spring, because so many young American women are wearing their of belts or string girdles higher. The placing of these loops is then left as part of the final fitting of the trock. This may be significant, but the fact remains that this is a purely American tendency. In the new French frocks where there is belt or girdle it is usually as low as ever. The higher waistline is indicated more by placing of drapery and by lever manipulation of fullness than through a change of the position of girdle or belt. And it is always rather poor policy to raise the posi- tion of the belt in a frock that has originally been designed for a low waistline. % % % HE Autumn bride has many col- ors to choose from. For street wear she may be assured that nothing is so new or so smart as shutter green. There is a wide variety of PoPTHRTLE ANE THE LAVGHIRGS JAGKASS Written and Tllustrated by Edward McCandlish. T was evening at the clay bank, and the Turtle family had just finished supper. Tommy had laughed at some odd drollery of Pop Turtle’s, and Ma Turtle had remarked that Tommy had a *con- tagious laug) “‘Speakin’ of contagious laughs, marked Pop Turtle, “puts me in mind of a queer bird dat I met up wid in my travels in Australia. Pronounced Ow-stry-lea. “Out in Owstrylea dey had a queer bird what had many names. Some called him ‘D' Settler's Clock,’” 'count of ‘he used to wake ‘em up in @ mawnin', and wished 'em all bye-bye at night.” “How did he go about it?* enquired Ma*Turtle. “Laughin said Pop Turtle. “Laughin’ 'lilke a crazy jackass. Laughin’ in &’ mawnin’; guffawin’ in d’ evenin'; and cacklin’ to hisself all en- durin’ @' day. Some folks called him @’ Kookoo-burra—'count of d' Aborig- inals of Sydney and Melbourne havin’ originally called him d' ‘Gogo-bera.’ But most of d’' folks out dat-a-way just called him ‘Jacko,’ and let it go at dat. “I minds @' time I first met up wid Jacko. Out in d' Bush. We had been on a hunting trip—me an’ a few cholce friends of mine—in search of d' elusive Chalmoogra tree—which nobody knows exactly where it grows at. We had stopped to camp on d' shores of one of Owstrylea’s limpid streams, and in wadin’ across it, I accidentally got my best pants wet. I hung 'em up to dry, and slipping on a single plece undergarment—a _very simple affair—I stepped out in d’ twilight to kind of look around a bit. All of a sudden I heard some one close behind me, laughin® to beat d’ cars. I turned about abruptly; drew myself up proudly an’ assumed d’' most dignified attitude I could. But d’.laughin’ went on con- tinuous, and I want to tell you dat— under @' circumstances—you might say —dat was d’ most agrawatin’ guffawin’ I ever heard, “I stepped quickly over to where d' noise come trom, and dere—on d’ top of a juniper stump, an’ lookin' right at me—was d' sauciest lookin' mem- ber of d' feathered family dat ever I set eyes on. steps up right in front of him, an’ looks him squarely in d’ eye. Den he kind of lets up on d’ laughin’. “‘My friend,’ says I, ‘Is dey any- thing specially amusin’ about my pus- sunal appearanc? 1 says, ‘‘cause; if dey is, I says, ‘and you don’t lay off on dat cacklin’, I says, ‘I gwine to ram a couple of dem laughs down yo' throat,’ I say “Well, sir, maybe he didn't under- stand me. And again, maybe he did. I ain’t sayin’ 'bout dat. But anyway, dat bird sort of eyed me all over for a couple of minutes, sort of solemn like, widdout so much as battin’ an eye. Hig eyes traveled from my right f0o up my leg to my right shoulder, an across to @' lef’ leg, and so on down to de’ foot—remaining long enough to count @' toes, apparently—and den back up again, until his eyes met mine. And den—he just opened his mouth, an' threw back his head, an’ let out @' mos’' outrageous laugh dat ever a man heard outside of a luna- tie asylum, an’ he just went on laugh- in', an’ laughin' llke he would split his sides, or else bust hisself. “Well, I reached around back of me, to where I hoped I would find a club, or something. (dls happened right on d’ edge of a lake), and'—as luck would have it—I just layed hold of a moss- grown shingle rock—d’ kind dey use to make pavements out of—and—be- in* most anxious to totally annihilate him—I steps up on a round boulder, an’ raised dat rock, an’ drew it back, an'—just as 1 got ready to sling dat rock—both feet slipped, an’' I found myself totally submerged In about 15 feet of water “I swallowed about two quarts of water, an' a pint of gravel. An’ when my head reached d' surface—d' jackass was gone! “Where he went to, I don’t know. And don’t keer. All I does know is dat @' next day I saw about seventy- ‘leven hundred more of 'em settin’ around in d' bush, kind of goin’ over to derselves d' happenin's of d' pre- cedin’ day. An' I 'lowed to myselt den, I did, dat I wa'nt goin' to ac- cost any mo’ of dem birds whilst balancin’ myself on no slippery boulders. , “An’ what's “I didn't, either “Tommy, my son,” said Pop Turtle, turning to his oldest offspring, “Al- ways try an’ manage to retain yo' *quilibrium,” said he. (Copyright, 1024, by Edward McCandlish.) Best Wishes. “Oh, he's not a bad chap. At any rate he throws himself into any job he undertakes. “Then I wish he'd go and dig a ', eaid Pop Turtle, Pretty Poor. “There is no present like the time,” said the boy who couldn’t resist making a pun, as he gave his mother a wrist ‘watch, Reason Enough Jig—You say you flunked in French? Why, I can’t understand it Jug—Neither could I—that's why I flunked. Answer to cross-word puzzle in last Sunday’s Star. i |Z[0Z[mIO] [ojo[EloI= X Him} [O[M[D[>{ [ NURE NEEW &g Hlo[olwim O] browns to choose from in the Autumn fabrics, the warm becoming browns being especially favored. though it has not been blue, especially stressed, finds itself in very good com- pany this Autumn, and when com- bined with red and black and white, or red and beige and black, gives an effect of much spirit. tle green and In France bot- reddish brown are stressed for tailored street wear. All sorts of violet and orchid and rose tones are in favor for evening. Venetian fuchsia has been empha- sized for the woman who can wear purple. luminous coppery but quite and white seems to have suffered little loss of favor with the passing of Summer. Cranberry and ox blood are tones on the reddish order. a rich There are rose tinged light. tones that are less usual, as smart for evening, with the French call bois de rose—rose- Interest to Younger AT LEFT: STREET FROCK OF BOIS DE ROSE TWILL, WITH BIG BLACK BUTTONS AND A BLACK ENAMEL BUCKLE. AT RIGHT: NAVY BLUE KNITTED SPORT FROCK WITH TRIMMING OF RED, BEIGE AND BLACK. new What wood—is the new French version of henna. Callot in Paris features a dark wine color which well se- lected by the pale-skinned brunette. There are alwa blues. Some women could not along without them. Quite the newest is stained- glass blue, launched by Lanvin of Paris. Pervenche, or periwinkle blue, is spoken of again, and proves to be becoming to many women who cannot we he more radiant stained-glass t Both for is afternoon wisely se- street and frocks the Autumn bride lects the new ribbed materials— bengaline, ottoman, rep, faille, gab- ardine, poplin. Georgette, chiffon and silk nets are without rival for eve- ning gowns, and there is little abate- ment in interest in silk crepes and crepe satins (Copyright. 1924.) Readers Try This Cross-Word Puzzle LT T HERNE NN NERELE L4 B LiE I HE CERK HE ERENEEE NRE HORIZONTAL. 1—Undress, 6—Moving water. 11—Muosical instrument. 15—Nothing else. 16—Otherwise. 18—8hine softly. 20—Pledge of indebtedness. 21—Heroine of the Fairy Queen. 22—Blue flower. 26—Filled completely. 28 A sacred song. 30—Nut. = _Bother. 33_8outh Dakota 36 Gotare. of indifl Gesture of indifference. 38—To bind with cord. 20_A? that time. 41—Linear unit, 4 Fleasure ride 48—To do away with. 47—8cornfully facetious. 49—The sun. 50—Half an em. S1—Artice. 52—Ras 33—Adam’'s grandson. 54—Court. 35_Abbr. of West Indies. 57—Lie around languidly. 58—Proceed. 60—Spanish for God, dl*Al'fifllm 5 rply ele & Collection of snim 05—Open-air blaze. g 5—Unpleasant tonal quality. 11(‘)~?\l!mh?\ a{h“:“"- —Pastors T2—Over us IPL T3—First digit. Té—Iuitials of one author of this le, 16—Deep dlsh. T7—Bove. 78~8weet roll. T9—Italian coin. 81—Plays on .word: aboard. 82_That men. 84—River in Tialy. 04w 95—Female Seas. 101—Preposition. 108—Game. 107—Angry. 109—What ‘men die for. 112—Brightaess. 114—Distant. 116—Fish. 117—Cheese. 118—Printer's measure. 120—Aflliets. 121—Half. 122—Vital 1iquids. 123—Special witness. 4 Railway (abbr.). 5—Military music. 7—Contact. 8—For_example. 'S robe. n game, 9_Pri 10—Ital 12—Goal. 13—Fishes' 14—Little Ji=pice e 17—Tap. 19—Rq 31 34—Puart of leg. Broken Lots. Our idea of the original optimist: The guy who went fishing on the ark when thero were -only two worms Associates in Art. * Said the typewriter to the plano: “We certainly are keyed up.’ egs. 47—Chokes with mud. “Dove's note. Predatory excursion. —Flower. 5S—Animal tissoe. 0—Venets chief magis- trate. 61—Truces. a3 a1 lored flowers. iiblical king. Little islands, rike heavily. Therefor —Respirable fluid. 5 Go_forward. Vild_flower. $0—Ger; exclamation. Vegetable. Female fowls. Hared (war term). 85—Talk loftily. 87— Author and 86— Pitch. 90—Aid. 92—Garden tool. 93— Float aloft 6—Bottle-fed jamb, 98— Sacred poem. 100—Measure of time. 102—High perennial plant. 104—Objects of worship. 106—Stamp. 107—Proposition. 108—Gaclic language. 110—Troe. 111—Girl's nat 113—Part_of o and ime. the verb “‘to 115—Bverything. 118—Master (abbr.). 20—Like. Irrelevant Comment. “That's nothing but a big bluff.” was what he said when a picture of the Rock of Gibraltar was flashed on the screen. i Answered. The most famous eavesdropper?