Subscribers enjoy higher page view limit, downloads, and exclusive features.
- WOMAN'S PAGE BY MARY MARSHALL It's a usual thing nowadays for Qressmakers and designers to seek their inspiration in museums. In fact, muscum curators find, or have found Tecently, that there is no class of Deonle who take a more live interest in collections of textiles, tapestries, Costumes, etc., than those whose bus- Iness is the making or designing of Women's clothes. They look for in- Spiration in Mycenaean and Egyptian antiquities with as great expectations as though these races were flourish- ing but vesterday, More than once Within recent years a new color has been derived as a result of most care- ful study of some beautiful tone found in museum treasures. This vear there seems to be some- thing of a back-to-nature/movement among fabric and clothes designers. Frankly there are more colors named after simple garden flowers and fewer suggestive of Egyptian tombs. Our own garden patches or window boxes seem to be quite as inspiring as Chinese costumes. And more than once this season a designer has taken the colors of some beautiful sunset in creating a new gown. T'ha sketch shows a gown of sunset inspiraGen. It is of white flannel ith a hand-painted border, done in the colors taken from the sunset The white Bat has a crown of ribbons in {olors to match the border of the Ribbon or silk In four or five colors has been used much for trimming hats and even for bordering slceves and eollars of coats. These color Eroups usually include a soft green, & blue, a rose, a yellow and perhaps a mauve. Just at present there seems to he more novelty in the £TOUDIng of ribbons or trimming silks in some definite color range. A range ©f colors from a light pink to a deep Ted, including about midway the tone known as gladiolus, is in line with the present vogue for reds. Real Russian color combinations ¥hich include the brightest greens, yellows. reds and blues with white are still admired and possess un- doubted smartness in contrast to a dark navy blue frock or suit. Some- | limes in the Russian color groups blue is entirely absent. Some women never give very much thought to the colors they wear, other than to follow the rule of avoiding anything very garish and in general to avoid colors that are un- becoming. Other women consider color, first, Jast and always in selecting their clothes. They regard the wearing of # certain color much as other women might regard the use of an alluring perfume. ~ They know that there are colors that soothe and comfort, while BEAUTY CHATS Small Hair Troubles. Tt is the small trouble that wrecks the health of the hair. Baldness may begin as dandruff, falling hair as split ends, severe alopecia as a slight dryness. Never neglect even the tini- est scalp trouble; it may seem foolish to Worry over it, but it may lead to the complete wreck of a beautiful head of hair if you don't. If you have dandruff, once. There are all sorts of ways that you can manage yourself very easily, including a new way which a certain well known scalp specialist has been trying successfully This | is to pinch the scalp all over with | the fingers, good firm pinch using | either the thumbs and first fingers or | the thumbs and all the fingers bunched together, whichever you find easiest The most effective way is to_have + 50me one else do the pinching, but if you rest your «lbows on a table with | your head in vour hands you can manage it yvourseelf without any fa- tigue. It's more strenuous and more | stimulating than rubbing. Treat t scalp with oil, too. and antiseptics will cure aimost any case of dandruff. Thick. black oil. known as crude oil, will do: olive oil is also excellent. = An eight-ounce MOTHERS AND THEIR CHILDREN treat it at oil Helping With Home Work. One mother says: 1 help my children with their home swork only by encouragement and showing an active interest in all their school work. Very often a mother who helps children directly does more harm than good. If a new step is to be taken, especially in irithmetic, the mother's explanation of it may not accord with the teach- “r's method of instruction and the re- sult will be confusion in the child's mind. Whenever 1 find home instruc- 1ion necessary, as when my child has mnissed school, I ask the teacher just what he must make up and what + anethod of instruction to use. (Copyright, 1924.) “Just Hats” Cocoa Color. ‘A puffing of ribbon trims this brim- Jess straw of cocoa color. The ribbon is a shade lighter. Or, if you like, it snay be either a plaid or a roman wtriped ribbon. It starts rather marrow at the back and then widens af it climbs iup the front and stands up quite Mfl}a is equally chic in all navy or WHITE FLANNEL SPORT_ FROCK WITH HAND-PAINTED BORDER DONE IN COLORS TAKEN FROM SUNSET. ~WHITE _HAT _HAS CROWN' OF RIBBONS IN SAME COLORS. other colors are stirring, exciting, alluring. There are cool colors and warm colors, primitive colors and colors and color combinations that are very “civilized.” (Copyright, 1924.) bottle of olive oil, to which a few drops of any good antiseptic or germ- icide have been added will make an emulsion that will do wonders for a dandruffy scalp. The amount of the antiseptic depends upon its strength. Tell your druggist what you want and he will suggest what to use. I use half a teaspoonful of a thick creosote preparation which comes in little bot- tles for general surgical and antisep- tic purposes. I must be vague about these directions. However, there are so many antiseptics on the market that my best advice is ask your drug- mist. Barney (.—You will gain in weight if you take cod liver oil and then change to olive oil after the weather gets warmer. It is unfortunate that you object to milk and cream, as these would help you very much. When treating the scalp with crude oil for dandruff, have the oil hot; use only enough to cover the tips of the fingers and massage it into the scalp without smearing the hair with it. A Jather made from any mild soap and hot water will remove all trace of this oil the next day. You probably used too much oil and did not do enough shampooing to remove it from the hair. Several lathers would be best if you do not know how to mas- sage So only the scalp is receiving the oil WHAT TODAY MEANS TO YOU. BY MARY BLAKE. Taurus. During the early part of the day saturnine vibrations predominate and are unfortunate for the termination of any important business or argu- ment. The aspects, later on, improve somewhat, but conservatism and care- ful discrimination are roquired. A child born today will be strong and healthy and always be looking for some “opportunity to put its strength and vigor to a test. It will, as the years advance, fret at any re- straint of a city character and will be prone to seek adventure and romance in “nature’s open places,” and will show a very decided prefer- ence for the sea and for lands that are not as civilized as ours. If today is vour birthday and you are not surrounded with an artistic atmosphere you are out of place and discontented with your lot. You may not realize what causes your unsettied condition and dissatisfied temperament. You know, however, possess some Eift which should be developed, but which has been neglected, owing, per- haps, to circumstances over which you have no control, or by the deter- mination of others to direct your efforts along practical lines. 1f, however, you, having discovered your gift, have been allowed to nurse and bring it to fruition, sucocess has awaited you and happiness has been your portion. Many artistic natures are allowed to languish and die, as the opportunity has never presented itself for their proper care and nourishment. You are not disposed to be success- ful in any line of commercial en- deavor, as you always feel you must find some " other channel of self- expression. The humdrum routine of a business life does not appeal to you, although you honestly try to accommodate yourself as much as possible to your environment. In spite of your temperamental dis- Pposition, you are quite happy in your home life and its surroundings, as your love of the beautiful applies alike to the animate and inanimate, and you realize that beauty is pro- moted by cheerfulness and affection, and you never allow the discontent or dissatisfaction you so often ex- perience to interfere with the joys and pleasures of others. Well known persons born on this date are: Montgomery C. Meigs, sol- dier; Arthur Rotch, architect; Rev. Percy Stickney Grant, clergyman; William B. Thompson, financier: Johnson M. Mundy, scuiptor; Frank ‘W. Woolworth, famous merchant. (Copyright, 1924.) "BBistory of Dour Name. BY PHILIP FRANCIS NOWLAN. BLAINE VARIATION—Blain. RACIAL ORIGIN—Norman.French. SOURCE—A locality. The family name of Blaine or Blain is one which was brought intc England by the Norman-French, or which de- veloped in that period immediately fol- lowing the invasion of William the Con- queror. Like so many of the names which at- tached themselves to the Norman in- \all black. ¥ = famous Delft earthenware \aben its mame from the Dutch town of Delft, where it was first mamu- actured about 1310, vaders, it was a place name. The army o(mmqnemrmnmmfl:n all parts ormandy, every little village and hamlet contributing its quota of 1§ Me and Puds Simkins was setting on Mary Watkinses frunt steps tawk- ing about diffrent subjecks and we started to tawk about eating, Mary ‘Watkins saying, Persinally I dont care mutch about eating, persinally 1 dont see how peeple can think about their stummicks the way they do. As long as I get 3 good meels a day I never think about eating, I sed. Some peeple are all the time chewing on something, I sed. Being a nock agenst Puds Simkins without axuilly saying so, and he sed, Well Im not a harty eater either, I don’t blesve I think of food if I was starving, my mother is allways worry- ing about me pecking at my food like a berd, its a wonder 1 aint all skins and bones. Being a fearse lie, and jest then Marys mother opened the door with a plate full of crullers, saying, Hows this for a bewtiful site, who likes home made crullers? Being bewty looking fat crullers with sugar all over the top, me say- ing, Well, 1 like crullers pritty good, theyro all rite, T gess. Not wunting to sound too inthusi- astic in case Mary mite get a ideer I was thinking about my stummick, and Puds sed, I eat crullers oc ion- ally once in a wi they aint so bad. Well, my goodniss, T dont wunt you boys to do me eny favors, Im sure, Mrs. Watkins sed. Meening she dident care if we ate eny or not, and jest then Leroy Shooster stopped go- ing_ past, saying, O boy, home made crullers, thats my favorite froot, O boy, leed me to them Not sounding very polite consider- ing nobody hadent asked him yet, and Mrs. Watkins sed, Thats wat I like to heer, inthusiasm, heers 2 for you, Leroy. And she gave him 2 off the top without saying enything about me and Puds, and I sed, Well, of corse, wat | ment was, 1 dident think mutch of crullers like you get in bakeries, I think home made crullers are grate. Thats better, Mrs. Watkins sed And she gave me 2, and Puds sed, Thats the way I feel, a ordferry cruller dont meen enything to me, 1d wawk rite past a ordnerry cruller without even terning erround to look at it, but home made crullers is dif- frent, Id leeve home eny day for a home made cruller. Thats better, Mrs. Watkins sed. And she gave him and Mary 2, Mary taking them and eating them dainty without saying enything. Your Home and You BY HELEN KENDALL A Cupboard in a Cabin. While the hordes of motor vaca- tionists are increasing vear by year, | and while these holiday makers fill our summer hotels and roadside inns to overflowing, there are still some | old-fashioned folk who love to get | away from civilization entirely dur- ing the summer and prefer “a lodge in some vast wilderness.” A rough shack. built and added to car after year by an absorbed whistling hus- | = — = o) T Y i ~& band and son is sheer bliss to many city-dwelling women, who find ri from apartment routine in the rude ‘woodsiness of such a remote home. It was my great privilege to spend several weeks a few years ago in a cabin in the deep woods, built by a college professor and his wife—a woman who lectured on operas dur- ing the winter and spent much of her time in hotels, on the railroads and on the rostrum. Hidden away in the forest, beside a little lake, they had put up with their own hands a small log house, made of split trees, with the bark side on the ex- terior and the flat side forming the inner walls. The logs were placed vertically, and a rustic railed porch ran around the cabin. At first the cabin was scarosly more than a sheltering hut, but each year they had added rooms and shelves and hand-hewn furniture with rush seats which they themselves wove for the chairs, and hand-forged hard- ware from a neighboring smithy. How they worked and how they loved it! The whole shack wag filled with ingenious devices for the con- venience and comfort of the occu- pants, and finally beauty of line and color crept in, too. And this brings me to the charm- ing cupboards built into the log walls in living room and kitchen- dining room. For these cupboards, like the windows and doors, were merely openings left in the walls and filled in with rough panels of wood, hinged and latched, with rounding tops. The cupboards were fitted with thinner slabs of log as a backing, leaving space for several shelves, on which stood colorful dishes of green and yellow pottery or the few pre- cious books that they found indis- pensable even in the wilderness. Below each open cupboard were smaller hinged doors, within whioch were kept utensils, tools, games, lnen or other needed articles. With hand- woven rag rugs on the floors, rude but decorative candelabra on the walls and rafters overhead, their cabin was a joyful change from the gorrect conventionality of their city e. —_— the same given name which had not existed before, and just as one military unit is naturally distinguished from an- other by mention of the place in which it was recruited, so individual soldiers and officers naturally adopted surnames that were indicative of the particular places in Normandy from which they had come. So it happens that many a widespread English family name of today traces back to ome or another obscure little hamlet or town in Normandy which has made no such mark in history as the family name derived from it In this case the village was Blain, in Brittany. The place name, quite evi- dently, prior to the arrival in Brittany of the was dertved from_the soldiery. Ni there-aross at once | Cymric ‘word “blaen,” signifying “hill- a necessity of fia«m men of | top” Will the Young Flapper Who Has Reformed in Order to Catch a Husband Revert to Her Old Self After Marriage? JDEAR DOROTHY DIX: A friend of mine s about thirty. IHo is falling in love with a girl about twenty-one. He is serlous-minded, intelligent, has never been out much with girls; is well to do and wants to marry. The glrl is opposite. She is a frivolous-minded flapper, ineflicient at her work. Her desk s always untidy. The man knew all these things and ridiculed them before he fell in love with her. The girl knows that this man is a good match, and she is trying to please him. She has stopped her light talk and apparently become serfous- minded, and industrious, and orderly, all of the qualities he admires. Now, is it possible for this girl really to change her nature? Will she not revert back to her original type as soon as she is married? I fear for my friend. FRANK. Answer: When you go a-fishing, Frank. you use the kind of balt that the poor fish you are angling for is most likely to rise to: live balt for some, flles for others. Same way with women. When they are out to catch a man they tfy to be what they think he wants them to be. Why, I have seen beautiful morons sit up and llsten by the hour, with an entranced expression on thelr faces, while a learned college professor discoursed to them upon the wonder and the heauty of the fourth dimension. I have seen girls who were atone deaf pretend to a musician that they were crazy about grand opera. 1 have seen girls who loathed exercise tramp, footsore and weary, over golf links, and I have seen girls who were bored to tears by books patiently plod through ponderous volumes, of which they did pot understand a single word, because they had a high-browed beau who lent them volumes of heavy literature. Because u girl goes In violently and suddenly for sports, or domesticlty, or religion does not in the least indicate that she s of an athletic, or domestic, or plous nature. It merely means that she has fallen in love with a tennis plaver, or a golf flend, or a man who loves to eat, or a young preacher. Why, girls even change the way they dress and they bob or keep their hair Jong to please some man. So it is nothing against the young woman that she ha time-honored tactics of her sex in order to win the man she As to whether her reformation will bo permanent, no because marriage does work miracles in women. 3 < All of us have known too many extravagant girls who became stingy as soon as it was their own money, instead of papa's, that they were spending; too many butterfly girls who became domestic grubs; (0o many lazy girls who madé industrious wives, to dare to prophesy The only thing that marriage doesn’t change about a woman is the amount of gray matter that she has. If she ix dull and stupid before marriage, she will still be dull and stupid afterward. But if she has intélligence, all things are possible to her. DOROTHY DIX. « e e D¥AR DOROTHY DIX: Should a mother be confined to the home without any recreation; without mingling with friends or meeting other people? After a while, would not home duties become irksome to her and would not everybody in the home become a bore to her and her home itself distasteful to he DEVOTED READER. adopted the desires. n say, Answer: Most emphatically yes to all your questions. It is absolutely necessary for all of us to have change, to meet new people and have some diversion, If we are to keep sane, to say nothing of being healthy and happy. And no other person on earth needs change and diversion quite so | much as the woman whose work is done in her own home and which consists necessarily of a monotonous repetition of the same task day in and day out. The men and women who work outside of the home have at least the excitement of golng and coming to their labor; they have social contact with many people and the interest of continually seeing new faces and hearing new things. Che housewife has none of this, and as she works alone her mind, as well as her body, goes round and round the same treadmill. This is why the asylums are filled with domestic women who have had nervous breakdowns. They had no strain to bear greater than other women, but they had nothing to break it. nothing to take their thoughts off themselves, nothing to interest and amuse them. nothing to look forward to. And so at last the monotony of it all got them. The reason that women get to be slack housekeepers, who do not care whether things are tidy or whether the dinner is good or not, is because they have swept the floors so often and cooked so many meals that they are completely tired and bored with it all. They do not care whether they do things well or badly. They have last their pep. But a week’s visit or a little trip anywhers would bring them home keen to be back and make a model home. The reason that mothers fret at their children and are cross with them is because they have answered the call of “mo-0-0-o-ther” so often that it has frazzled their nerves beyond endurance. If they could only be separated from their children for a few days they would be once more the patient. loving, tender mothers they should be and the cry of “mo-o-other” would be music to their ears. The reason why wives nag is because they have seen so much of thelr husbands that they Lave come to the place where they can &ec only their aults. A little separation would turn dreams once more. If men only realized how much more agreeable an interested, enter- talned, amused woman is to live with than is an overworked household drudge, every husband would see to it that his wife got away from home for an hour or so every day and met as many agreeable people as sne could. DOROTHY DIX. ]DEAR MISS DIX: A boy lives near me who Is afficted with t and he is always wanting 6 kiss me. The nounced his case hopeless and say he has not lon there is anything wrong in letting him kiss them Into the herves of their girlish uberculosis, physicians have all pro- & to live. Do you think me under the circumstances? SYMPATHETIC BETTY. Answer: T don’t think it would In: certainly do awful things to your lungs. person with tuberculosis to kiss any one. Betty, but it is equally necessary to have use it a little. jure your morals, b It is little short of It is all right to a head. (Copyright, 1924.) BEDTIME STORIE The Young Chuck Gains Faith Always to faith cling fast, T pray, Whatever may beset your way. —Young Chuck. It wasn't until he was almost to shore that the young Chuck that Farmer Brown's Boy was towing on an old log behind his boat under- stood at all what was happening. He had been so frightened as he was towed along over the flooded Green Meadows that he hadn't once noticed that he was drawing nearer and nearer to the shore. The boat gently grounded on the shore. Farmer Brown's Boy took hold of the rope attached to the log on which the young Chuck was riding, and began to draw it toward him. It was then that the young Chuck sud- denly awakened to his surroundings. You remember that he didn't know ut it would murder for a have a heart, If you have one, try to DOROTHY DIX. BY THORNTON W. BURGESS Then the young Chuck began to do some thinking. He began to wonder why that two-legged giant hadn't harmed him. As he thought it all over, from the time Farmer Brown's Boy had found him drifting on that old log to the moment when Farmer Brown's Boy had stepped aside, he began to ses the truth. “Why,” sald he to himself in a tone of great surprise, “why. I guess that two-legged giant didn't mean to do me any harm! If I should meet him again T wouldn't be afraid of him. It must be he is a friend. Only a friend would have brought me ashore.” And right then the voung Chuck gained faith. Somehow, he knew, he just knew, that Farmer Brown's Boy was his friend and always would be his friend. It is a splendid thing to gain aith. DAVIS BAKING POWDER UNDER SOME ROOTS. Farmer Brown's Boy. Now as he saw himself being drawn in toward this two-legged giant he was sure that {t was for no good purpose. It was only a few feet to shore. The young Chuck plunged into the water and began to swim. My, my, how he did make his little feet go! He paddled for all he as worth. ¥ farmer Brown's Boy chuckled. He hopped out on shore, and when the young Chuck reached land there was Farmer Brown’s Boy waiting for him. The young Chuck couldn’t turn baclk. because there was no place for him to go. He had to come ashore. A moment before he had been filled with hope. Now all that hope was gone. But the young Chuck was no coward. No, sir, he was no coward. Drifting about on that old log out on the water, he had felt wholly helpless. But when he feit land be- neath his feet he didn't feel so help- less. If he could have he would bave ‘made all his hair stand on end. But his hair wouldn't stand, because it was wet However, he did manage to make himself look quite fierce, and he ground his teeth together and made the ugliest sounds. He did his best to make this two-legged giant think that he wasn't atraid. "It really ery brave of him. M armer Brown's Boy just chuckled. He chuckled and chuckled. “You un- grateful little rascal” said he. “Here T saved your life and you are offer- ing to Aight me. Youre offering to fight your best friend. But, of course, you don't know it. Run along now and see If you can’'t keep out of trouble.” spped aside and let the young cnI:Zx:‘;mu. The young Chuck made his black heels fairly fly. He was in a strange place and_didn’'t know where he was going. But he intend- ed to get out of sight as soon as possible. Presently he came to a hole under some roots. He crept in there and for the first time since the water had driven Mim out of his home he felt safe. this popular shade. 31 fashionable tinss and colors ‘See dealer’s color card P Notion intex FEATURES COLOR CUT-OUT Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary. BY MRS. The Wedding Dress. The modern bride plans to wear more than “something old, something m8w, something borrowed, something blue” on her wedding morn. She also plans to wear omething practical! This is the era of the practical wed- ding dress. Gone completely are the days when the June bride rctired ler bridal pomp to tissue-papered and sentimental seclusion {mmediately after the solemn march down the chureh aisle. The wedding gown should be se- lected with an idea of wearing it later an afternoon or dinner d And no bride likes to be continually ex- plaining that she is “wearing out her wedding dress” when three or four months later she appears, feeling con- spicuously overdressed nd out of place in her now soiled and bedrag- gled finery, at a church function or an | all-day-Sunday with her husband's| people. Color has a great deal to do with the after-the-wedding usableness of an outfit, and that is one of the rea- sons practical little June brides are so rapidly exploding the tradition that a girl must be married “all in white.” They have had their lesson in watch- ing the sorrowful decadence of white finery in the case of numerou in-law, and for their own clothes they are choosing wearable shades that will yield their quota of scrvice to the | end. Many brides prefer to be married in | a stunning suit, which they will wear immediately after the ceremony, on | their “going away'—that entrancing | voyage into the new life. This is, un- doubtedly, a happy plan hit upon by some hard-headed Jittle bride who | preferred to save her earnings to| swell the joint capital of the cnter- prise, rather than to spend it all in | the initial show, even of orange bios- | soms and romance If you contemplate sufficient activities after the marriage to ju ocial tify | “Your name ought to be ‘Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary, How Does Your Garden Grow,’” teased Betty Cut-out, as her neighbor, Virginia, HARLAND H. Shopping for the June Bride ALLEN. possessing a formal evening zown you can indulge in more “June bride-y" touches, of course, and still have it apprepriate for ordinary eve- ning wear. Removabie accessories are the new invention that comes to one's aid here. Let your gown have its floating draperies, its clouds of tulle, even its train—though by no means all brides, even fashionable ones, elect @ train these days—but have them ali removable. Even separate sleeves may be provided to be sewed in later. The removability of accessories also per- mits the use of pearl embroidery and many other decorations too distinctly bridelike to be suitable for ordinary wear—if confined to parts of the gown that can be taken off afterward. The rule seems to be—make your own gown as plainly as possible for the post-nuptial demands to follow; let the accessories “tell the world” it is a wedding costume! —— Uncooked Vegetable Salad. This will probably suggest a wel- come change. This salad made with one carrot, one-half a green pepper, one white turnip, two sticks of celery, four or five small dishes nd one small onion riced well in a vegetable chopper. Season with salt and pepper, and serve on lettuce lcaves with French dressing. i Ambrosia of Oranges. Pecl and cut up as many oranges as you will need and remove all the tough tissue and the secds. Place a layer of sliced oranges in the hottom of a dish, cover it with a layer of sugar and grated cocoanut, place an er fayer of oranges on top of that tinue alternating layers of or- with layers of sugar and of cocoanut until you have filied the dish Then sprinkle sugar and cocoanut on the top. Among auction Were the items at a recent fur sale in Winnipeg, Canada, 4,000 wolf and €00 lynx skins. The Mark of Distinction came out in the yard with her sprin- kling can. “Come on over and help me” in- vited Virginia, so Betty squeezed through the hole in the fence. She took the can and began watering, while Virginia pulled a few weeds “Me—OW.” yowled Fluff, the kit- ten, who had followed them. “Oh, you watered Fluff!” screamed Virginia. “Did you think she was catnip? And both girls laughed as Fluff scurried off. Color Virginia's apron green and make her hat and blouse lavender. Her sprinkling can is bright red. the trowel is brown, and the poor little kitten 18 a soft gray. (Copyright, 1524.) Aunt Het BY ROBERT QUILLEN. Blue Ribbon Suggestions ~— “These modern women that can't do but one thing at a time give me the creeps. I can knit and soak my feet and read the acts of the aposties all at oncet.” (Copyright, 1924.) e is “dependable quality "SALADA TE.A bears that reputation — Try it.. BLEND of INDIA, CEYLON and JAVA TEAS HELLMANN'S 1:300) :8:3:10) | Mayonna ise Place a standing order with your baker or grocer or RAISIN BREAD on Wednesdays He will then deliver it or reserve it for you every week —fresh from the ovens, fragrant with the rare, rich goodness of Sun-Maid Raisins. To make sure of having this famous mid-week treat every Wednes- day, phone your standing order now. Eadorsed by bakers everywhere, including the Retail Bakers’ As- sociation of America and the American Bakers’ Association Raisin Bread Special on Wednesdays