Evening Star Newspaper, April 13, 1924, Page 79

THE - ‘SUND'AY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., APRIL 13, 1924—PART 5. T Present Fashions Appear to Be Beckoning Again to Accessories PLAITED CHIFFON. JABOT WHITE WITH PLAITED SCARF ATTACHED, AND. ABOVE IT. AT RIGHT, HIGH LINEN COLLAR WITH PLAIT- ED JABOT. THE TOPMOST BELT IS OF RED-AND-WHITE LEATHER: BELOW IT IS ONE OF WHITE KID WITH SILVER TRIMMING, AND UNDER THAT ONE ~ OF GREEN SUEDE, TOOLED WITH GOLD, WITH A GOLD BUCKLE. AT RIGHT, BELT OF MANY-COLORED RIB- BONS, WITH FRINGE OF RIB- BONS AT SIDE., A BELT OF AR- TIFICIAL FLOWERS, WITH MATCHING FLOWER FOR SHOULDER OF FROCK, AND BLACK SILK BRAIDED BELT WITH LONG TASSEL ¥ BLACK-AND-WHITE SILK. THE FLOWER 1S OF TULLE, IN TWO SHADES. oF BY MARY MARSHALL. T first it seems very. and pecu- liarly, feminine—this worry- breeding trick of wearing in- numerable accessories to our dress. But it is nothing of the sort. It is a habit that Adam taught Ev way back in the garden of Eden. The primit red man of America wore two or three times as many acces- sories as his flat-faced squaw, and so doubtless did the cave man before him. Man has to the accessory habit, collars, collar buttons, studs, shirts possibly separate cuffs, belts, braces scarfs, mufflers, waistcoats, cravats ties, Sam Brown belts, ribbands, stockings. garters, ring: lets, ruffle ins, buskins, the ages man existence of es: separate shoestrings bands, breeches-ribbons—jerk- ruTs. Down has complicated his adding to the real ntials of dress innumerable and ificant small things—accessories. War fashions, as we look back at them evens with the shallow per- spective of five or six years, seem to have been singularly lacking in accessories; at least, as far as women were concerned. - We dis- Things Moneyed Men. an you direct me to the First National Bank?” “I kin for a quarter. tors don’t work for nawthin’ town.” gloves, Bank direc- - ———— Unafraid. Landlady be afraid of the bacon. Boarder—I won't. I seen a piece twice as big as this and never got scared. = ever been addicted epaulettes— doub- through | in this | (to new boarder)—Don't | | | carded veil. belts, cuft: girdles, spats. and hat pins, collars, Jabots,” ruchings, muffs, petticoats, boutonniers, gloves, The story of progressing fashion from day to day was listed in what women had left off. It was a sum in subtraction, not in addition. Woren went without gloves in Paris! Astound- ing. We tried it. Found we could sur- vive the trying—and cut our glove bills more than in half even when gloves were more than doubling in cost. At the feverish climax of the whole thing French women—a few—even went with unstockinged legs in their sandal slippers! If the war had lasted much longer we might even have tried this, too. Tt may have seemed like a caprice of fashion, but behind it all was a bending to the necessities of bitter war. It was a yielding to a scheme of things in which women had less in time and in money to spend on clothes. “To change from day dress to evening dress was the slipping from one chemise frock to another. The innumerable accessories of evening attire had gone. Something very much like this had happened more than a hundred years before when France had been thr vulsions of the revolution and was struggling through the first of the Napoleonic wars. Then women vied ith each other to learn which wore Which Are Had Overlooked That. Irate Customer—I've worn these calfskin shoes only two months and now look at ‘em. Salesman—My dear sit. you must ’remq\mbvr the calf had already worn |that skin five months, making seven | months' wear, which is very good, I il)lmk. — | Saying It Tactfully. Ann T've seen seventeen summers. John—And how long have you been blind? A New Sport. Coach—Why didn't you turn out for track practice yesterday? Mark Johnson—I had a date, sir. Coach—Had a date, did you? Mark Johhson—Yes, sir; but I didn't break training. A miss is as good as 2 mile, you know. .His Hostess. He—Isn't this a stupid party? She—Yes. He—Why not let me take you home? She—Sorry; I live here. For the Cross-Word Puzzle Fan K . K o ey o of uf 9 | HORIZONTAL. 1—To banish to the country A short passage 16-—To provide, Ancieat. taccoon-like animal —To long Lor. To be tangled. 26— Common rodent 26—TUnit of measure 28_The ermine. 30—Limb of tree. 36—To study with care. 37—snare for animals. 39 _Blood_color. 41_Au emmet. 42 _To swink areund. Membrae of eye ()| Sigh convulsively. 47—To pervert. 9 A halt or pause. 50—A war-horse. String of several strands 5 Symbol for cerlum S5 Spiritlens. 38—Symbol for calcium 50— Hracing. €0—Strive for superiority —Single in kind. Walk pompousiy. Within, #4—A thunderstone. #7—Seventh note of diatonic scale. 6S_A repast. 74— Baquivocation. Ii—Short for sister. 8—Stalk supporting single flower. §0—Finds fault with. Si—Feline animal. &3—Wander from truth, S4—Part of the jaw. 85— Hebrew high priest. 86—Margin or fringe. 87— Web-tooted amphibians. 80— Precious met: 90—Prefix, apart 91—Pertgining to fissile rock. 93-—Poetic for near. 45—Because. 96—Programs, menus, etc. 87—Follow closely. 99—Diplomatic agent. 101—Raxcal: k 102—Pointed a 104—Sheenfolds 108—Commemorate joyfully 107—Allays: lessens. VERTICAL. —Personal pronoun. Pen for swine. 4—-Digits of feet. 5_Moved fo anger. €—An engraviog on wax. 7—Toward. 8—A shade tree. % —To fondl 10—Indefinit 11—That whic 12 A curved chisel, 13—Impetuous. 15—Consumed. 5—Disordered type. ~To pat softly 2—Quality of being ruinons. The nostrils. —A hillock. 5— Astuteness. Deep mud ~To dress, as flax Long neck wrap. #1—Sixty minutes. 3 Light strokes. 38—Lump of clay. ersenexs. —A rhymer. Characterized by artifice. +4—The negative. 45— Highwagys. 46— Appertaing. 45n thix maoner. avigatex. he first Bishop of Paris. ~An age; eternity. —Time preceding some event. Unylelding —Gaxh: witd i3+ Warhip engaged in blocking - Armor. An outgrowth. 68— Priestly caste of Persians, 68— Three-toed_sloth, 72—Anno Domini. Prompt response. A valley. 76— Talor 8—Lying flat. 70—The Italian frape. 82—To attempt. 3—An_epoch. 88— bush. 85— Relish. 81—1Learned. 92—Sweet conserve of fruit. S4—List of names. ridge. nite closely. 98—Precious stone. 100— Howerer. " —In law, an action 102—Nearly. 103—To perform. 105—Symbol for selenium. article. ats of laws of souud. [>19) BEE EuERE o)) WED EEWE |2} (8 WYRREEE ERN PEOE HE©E TR M) the fewest garments by actual count and which carried the least welght in apparel. FAE e (GRADUALLY aince 1919 we have been getting back into the way of accessories. We haye been re- luctant. We have been loath to burden ourselves wWith these kick- shaws of fashion. If.we can put a dress on all in one plece and call the job done, so much the better. Why stand, before one's mirror to add six or seven accessories? One thing is sure. If we affect the mannish—boyish—mode we must affect accessories. We have received the mannish tallored suit like the prodigal son. Very well, we must kill the fatted calf and order in the musi- cians. For the tailored suit is as de- pendent on fobs, handkerchiefs, gloves, stocks, waistcoats, walking sticks, frills and all the other Beau Brummel accessories as Christmas turkey is on cranberry sauce and stufling. Evening clothes and light atfter- noon clothes, not the least mannish, seem also to be beckoning to acoes- sories. We may dislike the bother of it 411, but we crave the effect they give. We may beé traveling toward fussiness and confusion in dress as surely as another generation of wom- en went toward fussiness and con- fusion during the 20's and 30's of the last century. But no hand can stay In the meantime fashion has pour- ed out her cornucopia before us— parasols, sunshades, gloves, walking sticks, scarfs, chokers, stocks, ties, boas, belts, girdles. We must have them. Americans as well as French wom- en have shown their approval. The trick just at present is to have a long, floating boa to match your evening frock. Or you may wear one in a bril- liant hue with an all-white evening gown. Sometimes they are three yards in length. There seems to be no imminent danger of the feather boa as an ac- cessory of the tailored suit or street frock, but even such an incongruity may come to pass. One thing seems certain. No eve- ning gown is complete without some sort of scarf—boa or otherwise. Two square yards of chiffon, sometimes of almost shawl proportions, are edg- ed with ostrich flues—long or un- curled or knotted to produce the re- sult we call “willow.” For suits and sport costumes scarfs take on the length of table runners. And they are as elaborately contrived and embellished with hand work as any piano “throw™ or tidy that flour- ished in any mid-Victorian drawing room. Crepe de chine scarfs are trimmed at one end with blooming wreaths of flowers cut from vivid felt, and held in place with applique and em- broidery. Often these scarfs are worn around the neck with plain end con- cealed, while the decorated end hangs down the back. Sometimes a shorter scarf Is mere- ly tled at the back in a loose knot. A plaid scarf of this description is sold with a sport hat trimmed with a plaid scarf to match. A scarf of heavy hlack net is embroidered with enormous colored stones and a chiffon scarf has a parasol to match, both heavily decked with large red flowers worked in beads. Sometimes with afternoon and evening frocks a scarf is worn to match the hem of the frock of Interest Written and_Illastrated by Edward McCandlixh, JP,” said Tommy Turtle to his father one day, “lend me fo-teen bucks. I wants to buy some chickens!” Pop Turtle regarded Tommy for a moment with the shrewd eye of an experienced parent. “What kind of chickens is you aimin’ to buy?” he asked. “Chic-chickens!” Tommy responded. “I needs another vocation to occupy my mfnd.” i Pop Turtle arose slowly from his chalr, and went to the shelf back of the fireplace, where he usually kept his currency in a cracked sugar bowl. Carefully counting out the “fo-teen bucks,” Pop Turtle included a shake of the hand. . “Congratulations, Tommy!" he said. l'!t does me good to see you takin' a interes’ in something tangible, an’ Teal like poultry fahmin'.” “Thankee, sir!” ssaid Tommy." “By the way,” continued Pop Turtle, “how'd you make out in yo' exami- nations down to d' Red School, dis season?” Tommy fumbled in his pockets, and produced a somewhat soiled copy of the report of the sald examinations. Pop Turtle put on his spectacles and read the report. “I see @’ letter F occurrin’ here at rather frequent intervals,” said Pop Turtle. “It says: Thomas T. Turtle j—geometry-F, history-F, English-F. | What does ‘E* mean?” 3 “Dat means fine! Father, said Tommy. “Oh, very good!” said Pop Turtle. “Very good! Tommy. Very good! Very good!” fine!” * % x % 1 A short time after this, Pop Tur- tle received a note from the Red School faculty, saying that “Tommy’s presence at the school was no longer I spite of all that has been sald of the beltless silhouette, belts are working themselves into distin- guished favor. These belts seem to stand ready in enticing array in case fashion departs from her present whim of going ungirdled. Already there are charming frocks showing the use of belts. For an evening frock a belt is made of artificial flow- ers pressed closely together with Just one bouquet left out to be worn upon the shoulder. Braided belts are with us again. One, rather wide, shows the braids of vari-colored rib- bons—green, blue, yellow predomi- nate, with a long tassel composed of the unbraided ribbons at one side. Another of braided black ribbon shows a tassel of smaller black and white tassels sewed together. Leather belts for the tailored frock are numerous. Red and white leather are u:;r-d together, all white trimmed with silver, and green tooled with gold. is A mannish accessory, but one that is not borrowed from day mode of men, is the walking stick. For since war days where does one find an American man wha swaggers a walking stick? It is very amusing about walking sticks or cans, isn't it? When we grow old and sUff kneed and really might find comfort and assistance from a good stout walking stick we scorn the use of them. We are not quite such an old hag vet, thank you. Besides, dogs might bark at us if we walked with cane. Yet when we are young and limbered-kneed and could derive no possible assistance from a cane we yearn to carry one. There is some- thing so swagger about a walking- stick, when one doesn’t need one. There seems to be no special re- vival of the walking stick o far, but it is unmistakably suitable and ap- propriate to the revived tailored suit. Here and there you do find women who have adopted canes, and there are charming ‘canes in the shops. One that has a note of timeliness is made with a handle formed from three or four mah-jong tiles with a smaller tile swinging from a cord lower down. To give a finishing touch to the effect of the woman who wears her tailored suit in Directoire fashion the long slender walking stick of polished wood topped only by a slender silver or gold cap. Almost all women's sticks now have silk or leather loops below the handle by which they can be swung over the arm. Umbrellas are no longer merely a rainy-day necessity. They are be- coming so interesting that to lose one’s umbrella now a matter of greater moment than it was some years ago, when women bought the cheapest sort of umbrellas and never expected a borrowed umbrella to be returned. Now we pick out our umbrellas as carefully as we do our purses or parasols. Handles are often very amusing. One handle shows a mam- ma doll head that squeals when it is pressed. Sometimes the ferrule is more ornate than the handle. One black and white umbrella or parasol has a crystal ball at the ferrule end Umbrella handles often offer a place for carrying a gay handkerchief. One has a slit in the bardle for e hand- kerchief and another has a slit in the strap at the handle. Most charming indeed are the new rain-proof Japa- nese parasols that may shield us from a summer shower. the present- his fellow students in the mysteries of ‘rolling the bones.'” Pop Turtle read the note carefully. “Very good!” said he. “I reckon is | (OVE still ponders the question of gloves for evening, but fans are accepted as a matter of course for almost every evering occasion. Once you get the habit of depending on a fan in your hand you find yourself loathe to give it up. To provide a bit ‘of breeze—perhaps; as an acces- sory of flirtation—possibly. Prob- ably more important still is the fan as 4 means of introducing the nec- bit of bright color or bril- liance in an evening costume—and in giving one a definite occupation for one's hand. The queens and fairy princ of folk lore always ¢ | riea t cepters about with them, and one can hardly wonder. | have been such a comfort to have | somethnig of the sort to keep one's | hands from feeling self-conscious. | The peasant woman had her distaff— the queen her scepter. Many a clever and beautiful woman has felt the need of something of this sort to busy the fingers in con- versation. Mme. de Stael, one of the most brilliant and magnetic of the ladics of the French salons of the eighteenth century, always held in her hand a small sprig of laurel— essary sseg eir | 1ess original women carry fans. Different occasions of the day program seem to call for different sorts. There are small theater fans, larger, more pretentious fans for th apera, midget fans for the matinee— fans suitable for the informal danc orate, formal And gloves gathering. are assuming increasing importance. Whether vou consent to wearing them in the ning or not you will find them pl ing an ever augmenting rc wardrobe. At the winter short gloves with sleeve left fair, untanned hands with arms of that ntuch admired rosy, gold flesh tint that we associate with freshly tanned skin. And this became very much the fashion. so much so that women rather resented long gloves in the evening to hide this interesting contrast that short daytime gloves had produced. By all means the very short glove is the most interesting of the season, and women often pay more for the new shert glove than for the con- ventional long glove. Nowadays our different and distinctive. Women who could afford it used to order a dozen pairs of gloves pre- cisely alike, Now they choose them plecemeal—each pair different. Tt is a new and clever trick to wear gloves to match the small envelope purse— and both in turn are chosen to accord precisely. with the frock or suit with | which they are to be worn. i (Capyright, 1 ve resorts less frocks gloves are boy got a head on him like a porce- lain door knob!" Bver since Tommy Turtle had had his poultry yard he had been making desirable, as he had been Initiating Tommy done graduated at last, Dat|many trips abroad from the Mud Tt must | | for much the same reason that other | and others suitable only for the elab- | ever- | e in your | Nutrition Nuggets. In determining the cost of your dietary a convenient method !s to ascertain the cost of each 10Y calor- fes portion. This is usually an average serving. Sunlight is a close “side partne: of food in the treatment and cure of rickets. Codliver oil is another. Rickets is often called a disease, as it occtrs with greater AT TOP, BLACK FEATHER FAN TIPPED WITH RHINE- STONES, THEN A GREEN MAR- ABOU FAN WITH A GARDENIA, THE STEM OF WHICH WINDS AROUND THE TORTOISE- SHELL HANDLE, AND UNDER THAT A CHIFFON FAN TRIM- M WITH LACE ON ONE SIDE AND DROOPING OSTRICH ON THE OTHER. IN THE CIRCLE S AN _ODD FAN OF GREEN SILK. WITH FIVE GOLD TAS- . THERE IS A LINK | BRACELET, WITH PAINTED | ’NS ON THE LINKS; A 3 E IN ONYX AND I A BOBBY COMB N A BLACK RIBBON, AND A FOLDING CIGARETTE HOLD- ER IN A JEWELED PENDA! HUNG ON A BLACK SILK CORD. frequency in winter. Special care of winter diets should be the rule. Learn to prevent malnutrition in the children and you will not have to do remedial work when they are older. To paraphrase freely, “An ounce of food may be worth a pound of medicine.” The housing situation affects the food and feeding situation, according to Alonzo Taylor; if there is insuf- ficient storage space there is apt to be an inadequate or otherwise un- satisfactory food supply. When you rent the new apartment or house remember that the rent may bear a definite relation to the nutrition of the'family: and shut in Bank, coming in lafe at night and disappearing early in the morning. One day Ma Turtle presented. Pop. Turtle with a large bill from “Green Goods Billy” Muskrat, the Cross- roads Storekeeper. The bill showed numerous items for “fresh eggx" Pop Turtle put his spectacies on again and perused the bill. Mandany!” said he to Ma Turtle, “How come all dese items ‘bout ‘fresh eggs.’ ‘fresh eggs'? Seem like { Tommy’s hens ought to be producin’ | something by dis time!” | “Tommy's hens!” exclaimed M. | Turtle, indignantly “Jes’ you step | out dere an' take a look at dem hens!” Slowly Pop Turtle gathered himself up out of his chair and hobbled out in the back yard. Arriving at Tom- my's chicken yard, Pop Turtle look- fea arouna. Not a chicken was in sight! Standing about the yard, however, {like hayoocks in a clover field, Pop | Turtle saw a number of peach bas- kets turned bottom side up. Pop Turtle turned one of the peach baskets over with his foot and out stepped a game rooster with steel spurs. The next basket produced an- other game rooster, and also the third, and fourth! All together Pop Turtle counted seventeen game roost- ers, eleven drake ducks, fourteen buck pigeons and two guinea fowls. 1t was, indeed, a remarkable col- lection. “Tommy,”, said Pop Turtle that evening, “how come Yo' hens ain't layin® no eggs?’ “Dem hens aint had a chance to lay no eggs!” said Tommy. “Give ‘em time! Give 'em time' Dumbbell. Cooking Teacher—What is the dif- ference between a lemon and a head of cabbage? Ruth—I don’t know. Cooking Teacher—You'd be a mice ome to send after lemons, easonal | | household duties get in touch with the bureau of home economics, United States Department of Agriculture, and you'll soon find that you have a hand in making America better fed We must be taught to spend and save,” says Dr. Alonzo Tavlor, ternational authority, “without jury to nutrition Resolve to tackle diet prob- lem at a time. It for any one, no matter what the sex, age or occupation, to make stablish- ment of intestinal health his first care. It is surprising how far such a practice faithfully carried out will go in solving other diet problems. in- in- on s safe curing symptoms that are often not ‘When you begin to feel discouraged | associated with idea of constipation. to a narrow round of | Try it and be ed ! to Younger Tormy TORTLE Ame w08 [FPosesrrY convin Readers Where Pearls Are Found. Pearls are animal growths, being found in shellfish of various kinds but usually In the pearl oyster, which is not like the ordinary one, but more of the mussel variety. Ovster shells are lined with a smooth coating of mother of pearl called nacre. Layer by layer the oyster builds it up. When foreign substance enters the ovsters tissue, the little animal stops the i tation by surrounding the object with a coating of nacre, or perhaps several coats, so that it can do These protective bal what are taken from the used as jewe Sometimes small sharp pieces of nacre are purposely inserted by own- ers of oyster beds into the three- year-old anima then two year: later, when they are taken from the | water, contains a big, lus- | trous peart Of all the pearl fisheries, those near Ceylon, in India, are the greatest. Stories say that the wonderful pearls King Solomon had came from Ceylon The pearls Cleopatra dissolved and drank came also from there. Diving for pearls is a regular busi- ness of Ceylon, employing a great many workers. Each oyster boat usu- ally has five divers. They go down repeatedly, each time taking a basket fastened to a rope on the boat. Whe: the diver reaches the bottom I scoops up the shells with his basket The dangers of such an occupation are not triv the men are stung by Again, they may stay down too long, and, over estimating their ability to go without breath, will be brought up dead. The divers hold their noses when they de- scend. An Arab can stay under from eighty to ninety seconds, but a Tamil diver usually not so long. A pear] diver's pay consists in his getting one-third of the oysters he brings up. Then he may hunt through them for the prizes, and, by selling the pearls, make his wag Th. day's catch on an oyster boat is tak to a rotting ground, where the oys- ters lie in piles for a week or so and are allowed to decay before the pearls are picked out. The pearls that are gathered vary greatly in size and shape. They are sorted by being sifted through holes in little pans that look like ashtrays of pearl oyster to be each one y A L3