Evening Star Newspaper, July 8, 1923, Page 73

— BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. HIS summer there are two sil- houettes and they are both extremes. There is the stralght- line contour—straight and lank @s a poplar in Lombardy—and there s the bouffant outline that spreads like the chestnut. Your skirts may measure a yard and a half about, or | #hey may measure four or five, and | thexe isn't much choice in between. | The silhouette In 1923 knows no moderation. | Extremes are alwa: more becom- ing to the young than to the no- longer-youn And whether you like it or not it is the extremes that are smartest. There is always the | element of the extreme in smartness, | Always much of cautious moderation in dowdiness. If one has no daughter of sixteen or thereabouts, one is tempted to adopt one for a week or two just for the pleasure of planning, buying and making her summer clothes. For truly the smart the new clothe able for her. It was when we were sixteen or seventeen that we took fashions most seriously And it is the girl of sixteen, seven- teen or thereabouts to whom the spshions at present seem most sol- émnly important—not clothes so much, but fashions. " Never again will the length of a ekirt or waist, the tiit of a hat, the location of a bow, or the design of & sleeve seem so significant. It clothes you wore when you sixteen or so—the first clothes you helped after you had really become grown up—grown up in vour own estimation if in no one else's - that dominate all your later clothes conceptions. When a voman speaks of a normal walst- line, or thinks of cloth graceful made women way the lord meant them to look, and not like carfcatures, vou will Yusually find that she is thinking of the clothes she wore when she was sixteen. In fact, you can generally get the vintaze of a woman by the sort of fashion that seems right and proper and beautiful and graceful. * KX kX is never a time when year la clothes look quite so absurd when you nd thers s never when the verygnewest fashions seem 80 completely to achieved the perfection of smartness and beauty. Jt seems almost as if there would mever have to be any more changes of fashion—as if the fashions of all the ages had been leading up to these wonderful new things that are yours to wear. Age and middle age may be intolerant in some respects, but there is nothing so supremely intol- erant as the arttitude of the young girl toward clothes that are not in style. Then by the time you're eighteen or nineteen or so you begin to see what a fickle jade fashion really s, and by the time you are as old as you are now—well, fashions just serve a purpe Y for buying néw clothes with every new season, a means of achieving that varlety in appearance from season fo season which s rather necessary to the maintenance of your charm. Somctimes the older woman storms a bit because the newest fashions, the prevalling silhouette, all seem to be made for the young girl. It doesn’t seem fair. Older women are charming and influential and impor- tant—more than their sixteen- year-old daughters, you may think, and they have the money to spend, too—why should the clothes so ofte are especlally suit- the wery is select and look the HER before frumpy « are sixtecn, ve s0 st and pregtiest of | s that were | a time | | | 78 OF YOUTH THIS SUMME] AND IRISH LACE BLOUS! be designed for the slender. awkward | figure of the young girl? Perhaps it's the only rangement. Since it is young girl who can take the ions seriously it may be right that they should be made espe cially for her. And it ma be that there really is something wrong with are made for sophisticated the s0 fashions more society when the older, wiser, woman instead. When you go clothes hunting with your voung girl of sixteen you may find that while you consult you dressmaker’s saleswoman ing full-skirted models the young girl herself will be casting eager eyes concerr toward the more sophisticated draped and trailing frock. But use tactful THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, SPORT JACKET AND SKIRT IN BRIGHT RED, A COLOR BELOVED IT IS WORN WITH WHITE LINEN ion to induce her to have a frock or so of the full-skirted t—for she can wear them to such excellent advantage. Even the rather 1 youns girl becomes so trans- ed in a well constructed frock of this sort that her own father or big brother his eyebrows and per- haps whistles. He becomes suddenly convinced that the ugly duckling isn't such an ugly duckling as he had thought. Blessed if she isn't ceasing to be a duckling at all and is becom- ing a swan! * ok ok ok HEY have called these full-skirted frocks by many names since the mode was first revived several years ago—and perhaps you still call them cond empire or Empress Eugenle. YELLOW STRAW POKE BONNET TRIMMED WITH RIBBONS OF GREEN AND YELLOW. But it's a new trick to associate them with the name of Gavarni. At the Gavarni ball at the Parls opera a few weeks ago, when guests w. to come in costumes based drawings of the famous c and maker of fashion-plate drawing | who called himself Gavarni, many of on the the second empire mode, But Gavarni did much of his most inter- esting work before the reign of Louls Napoleon In France—he is more prop- erly identified with the modes and manners of Louis Phillippe, and the tashion in women's clothes that more properly bears his name is that which prevailed between 1330 and 1850, Take the trouble to look over any of the old Gavarnl lithographs and see how many details there are that {mlxhl be adopted in the mode of today—more, in fact, than you would find {n the fashion that is assoclated more with Empress Eugenie. | The full skirt of Gavarnl was | shorter than that of the later period, land dressmakers and designers have | | learned that of the present-day bouf- | fant skirt women will have none save when it !s made fairly short. With the second empire mode came the | ekirt that was both outrageously full {and outrageously long. the relgn of Louis Philippe women had to have their skirts short enough {to show thelr strapped slippers gainst their light-toned stock |and so do the girls of today. It was |the short, full skirt that arn knew and drew. Then there were the poke bonnets—and we have poke bonnets, though not so much like a coal scuttle, tod: By a e cldence that s really interesting you will also find the scarf worn taut round the neck and knotted in front in the lithographs of Gavarni, though it cannot be, can it, that we who wear it in the same fashion now borrowed the idea from the mode of the 1830- 1840 period? : There is another interesting dis- tinction. varni's women still wore | the side curls and the chignon placed | fairly high at the back of the head. | They had not yet learned to roll their | hair demurely over th and e ausked | aricaturist those who assembled simply adopted | But during | confine it In a languid coil at nape of the neck. And today the high- placed chignon and the side curls con- stitute a fashion In hair arrangement | that is gaining following, especially where French fashions are favored. * % k% GCPASHION absolutely reveled in ribbons,” says the student of the costume of the Gavarnl period. Low necks were worn outdoors as | well as indoors.” “The hair was combed | up high at the back and gathered into | bunches of curls on either side of the forehead—known as curls a la Hortense Mancini.” “They wore berthas.” Ciceves attained par- {amount importance * * ¢ they | grew delirious over “ there were leg-o’-mutton ® * * elephant sleeves and | sleeves borrowed from the fa |of the middle ages.”* “They wore the long, narrow scarf of silk or lace, | known as the B “They r veled ir other sheer fgbric | Thesa comments might be applied to at least ono phase of the present | mode, and it is a phase that proves | especially becoming to the girl of six- teen. slit This Gavarni mode | suitable for dance frocks. One charming frock of the sort fs of white organdie trimmed with plaited | rufles, while another is of pink taf- feta with white organdie sash tied at the left hip. There are designs ap- pliqued in organdie on the flounces of the skirt. But you is eminently not succeed in get- -old to sub- mit to the demureness and affected | grace of the Gavarni mode. She may prefer to be straight and narrow There will still be {frocks for her choosing. One has sometimes to look twice to tell an evening fock from an afternoon frock since wo often wear no sleeves by day and so often wear fairly high decolletage by night. There was per- haps never st within the last Y day and evening frocks have been, at times, so difficult to distinguis . D. 0, JULY 8, 1923—PART 5. i { | them o & ®| sleeves shion | charming dance | | You | Other years the precocious sixteen- | when it comes to choosing clothes— {has vearned and begged and intrigued ilhouettes of the Season and Gavarni’s Full-Skirted Frocks NG _GIRL'S FROCK OF ORANGE-COLORED CREPE, WITH | PIERROTS OF BLACK AND WHITE SILK APPLIQUED. THERE | IS A LONG BLACK-AND-WHITE TIE. | each in luntil they are whit = other glrls in red she doesn't like to be outdone in the matter. Even if she isn't wearing red she likes to know that she can when she wants to. And red is really an excellent se- lectfon for sport wear. It looks warm—and the idea of playing ten- nis or golf In anything red on a midsummer day may make you gasp, | but red in the bright sunshine doesn't | 1ook so furfously red as you think it 1&- going to. Nature dresses a host of her midsummer flowers In red. Vio- | lets and daffodils bloom in the spring, but poppies and geraniums and salvia |and cannas and bergamot flourish khen tho sun shines brightest, (Copyright, 1923.) Pickled Vegetables You can pickle many vegetables, if you have a family with a taste for them. And the comforting thing is that you need not wait until late au- tumn, as s necessary in making so many pickles, to do it. Onions and caulifiower, for instance, you pickle whenever these vegetables are plentiful. And by doing them early you lighten your pickling burden of the late autumn. To Pickle Tomatoes.—Taks the round, smooth green tomatoes, put them in salt and water, cover the vessel and put them over the fire to scald; that is, to let the water become boiling can { hot; then set the kettle off; take them of cold o from water; the pot into a basin to enough cold vinegar jcover them put whole pepper and ! mustard secd; when the tomatoes are old take them from the water, cut two across, shake out the seeds and wipe the inside dry with a cloth, then put them into glass jars and cover with the vinegar; cover with a close-fitting tin cover. Pickled Cucumbers.—Wash and wips 600 small cucumbers and two quarts of peppers. Put them in a tub with one and a half cups of salt and & plece of alum as large as an egg. Heat to the boiling point thres gal- | lons of cider vinegar and thres pints of water. Add a quarter of a pound cach of whole cloves, whole allspice and stick cinnamon, and two ouncs of white mustard seed, and DOUr oV | the pickles. To Pickle Onlons.—Peel the onlons cald them in water, then take skimmer; make salt and with a strong them up { vinegar enough to cover them boil- ing hot; strew over the onions whole pepper and white mustard seed, pour { the vinegar over to cover them; when cold, put them in wide-mouthed bots tles, and cork them close. A table~ spoon of sweet oil may be put in the bottles before the cork. The best sort of onions for pickling are the small white buttons. Pickled Caulifiower. — Two cauli- flowers, cut up; one pint of small onions, three medium-sized red pep- pers. Dissolve half a pint of salt in water enough to cover the vegetables, and let these stand over night. In | the morning drain them. Heat two quarts of vinegar with four table- spoons of mustard, until it boils, Add the vegetables, and boil for about fifteen minutes, or until & fork can be thrust through the caulifiower, to have black frocks. She has felt frocks | year-old—and they are all precocious | especlally keen about black evening ow she has a penchant for ]h'u('ks. h a weather eye out for | r v R Miss Reba Hurn, first woman State senator in'the stats of Washington, went through the entire legislative session this year without making a lapeech People of the Alaska of Europe Have Many Ties With Americans BY FRANK G. CARPENTER. KRISTIANIA, Norway. HAVE come from Copenhagen to Kristiania to write of the Alaska| of Europe. Away up here at the northwestern end of the conti-| nent, hanging down like a bulbous| nose over the cold face of the new republic of Finland, is a peninsula that rresponds to the territory which Secretary Seward nick-named the box of America.” This pe- ninsula includes Norway and Swe-| gen and is called Scandinavia. It Ites in just about the same latitude; as Alaska. It 1 should take an airplane fiy west round the world at just the distance from the north pole m now I could look down | upon Juneau. Stockholm, In Sweden, is not far above Skakway, while Trondhjem, fn Norway, a few hun- . dred miles above Kristiania, is almost as far north as Nome. Hammerfest, the city of Europe nearest the pole, has a location corresponding to Point Barrow, on our arctic coast of Alaska, and Scandinavia has propor- | tionately about as much land north| of the arctic circle as we. | Our government makes a big noise | about its new line from Seward to Fairbanks as the raflway of the nagh pole. Scandinavia has a steel road hundreds of miles farther north. It crosses the head of this peninsula, tapping great iron mines inside the arctic circle and ending at Narvik, a Norweglan port, which, although far above. Bering strait, has open water all the year round. The Swedes are electrifying that line. This Alaska of Europe is only halt the size of the Alaska of America. Still it is four times as large as New England. It is so long that If it were laid upon the United States it would reach from the Gulf of Mexico nearly to Canada, and its southern part in some places is as wide as the distance from New York to Pltts- burgh. Sweden alone is more than four times as big as the state of Ohto’ with Massachusetts added thereto, and Norway only a bit smaller than Minnesota and Iowa taken together. It is as far from Vardo, on the arctic coast of Norway, to Lindesnes, on the south coast, as the latter port is distant from Rome, and the trip around the Norweglan coast takes as long as to cross the Atlantic. This great body of land Is a mass and | same as where | all over Europe. might be called the Scandinavians of | today. Scandl- It OMPARED with Alaska, navia is thickly populate has twenty thousand people where| Alaska has one, and, although it is in the same latitude, it supports them all and gives them a good living. Our| Alaskans belong to one of the young- est races on earth. These European Alaskans have come down from the| oldest. Their ancestors were here when Cheops built the great pyra- mid. They were alive on this spot in the stone age, and In the iron age that followed they sold their wares It was only shortly | after Christ came that Scandinavian| ships were trading with the annns‘ and the Caliph of Bagdad. They sold| amber for bronze at just about the| time the Chinese began to make lit-| erature. They have figured in his- tory since Queen Dido laid out her ancient city of Carthage, ahd many | centuries before Romulus and Remus, fed by the wolf, had started Rome.| They were old when Solomon built the temple and when Confucius first| saw light on the hills of Shantung. They cover, in fact, all human his- tory, and there are sclentists here who claim that the Scandinavian race, which, pure and undefiled, we have with us still, dates back to more than 10,000 years before Christ. Some even believe that the Aryan race started here on the shores of the Baltic and that this, rather than Asla, was the first home of the whites. R At any rate, we have very definite records of what the people have done since the days of the middle ages. More than a thousand years ago the Vikings, by which §s meant the peo- ple living in the coves along the coast of Scandinavia, went out in their ships to trade and fight with the other nations of Europe. They sailed as far south as Gibraltar, and their various kings had a forced draft for thelr navies which enabled them to hold together and act as one. They were converted to Christianity before the year A. D. 1000, when they had thelr first Christian king. And what is of greater importance to us, it was about that time that a Norweglan crossed the Atlantic and discovered America, beating Colum- bus by about 500 years. The man who made the discovery was & Vik- ing named Lief, the son of a Nor- weglan known as Erik the Red. He crossed over to Iceland and Green- * ok ok K ! of some of the oldest rocks known to man, with patches of earth here and there, and with many lakes and rivers and a vast area of forests. The Nor- weglan part is mostly a stony plateau by long fjords or arms of the sés, and the Swedish part is a plain sloping down from this plateau to the Gulf of Bothnia and the Baltic. The two countries, Including Den- land and from there went down the mainland of America and established a settlement, which he called Vine- 1and, or the Happy Land. There is here in Kristiania today a ship which is perhaps the exact counterpart of the vessel commanded by Lief. Indeed, it may be the very same ship, for it is more than 1,100 years old. It was mark, which consists of the islands and a patch of land at the foot of the peminsula, have about 11,000,000 dug out of the blue clay of the God- stad farm just thirty-three years ago. This farm is only four hours from Deople,"the-whole making up .Jhat! where I am yriting and caz be-gasily, 1¢ | past. ¢ PO T DTS T T T DA AT A S 0 MMQ&; Lived Before Cheops and Discovered America More Than Four Hundred Years Before Columbus Was Born—Lief Erikson and the Viking Ship Now Shown in (DD D reached by automobile. The ship was brought here from its burial place, not far from the sea, and it is now installed in a shed in the rear of the university building. It is of oak and the hull and keel are still in good preservation. As I see it now in my mind's eye, I can add to the picture and reproduce it as It sailed those stormy seas of the By my American tape measure it is seventy-seven feet from bow to ern and just sixteen feet wide. In the third plank from the top there are sixteen oar-locks and the rudder was on the right side. There is no anchor shown with the ship, but I venture the one which held it was only a marble in comparison with the mighty mass that holds firm the Majestic and upon which I stood be- fore starting for Europe. You could put this boat in the ballroom of the Majestic and a hundred couples or so could still foxtrot round it. Never- theless, it was in such a vessel that Lief Erikson crossed the Atlantic and established the first colony on the American coast. * ok ok Ok ROM this you will see that it was a Scandinavian who first came to America, and 1 you will examine our records you will find that they con- tinued to come. The Swedes settled on the Atlantic coast almost as soon as the Dutch. They had a colony on the Delaware river known as New Sweden within fifteen years after Manhattan island was bought of the Indians, and for two centuries there- after the Swedish language was spoken in our churches of the Swedish foundation. Many of the first families of Pennsylvania, Dela- ware and New Jersey trace their de- scent from these Scandinavians. Along about 1825 the Norweglan Quakers began to come to the United States, and a little later there was.a great immigration of the Swedes and then of the Danes., We have today eleven hundred thousand of these peo- ple born in Scandinavia, and with their children they probably number five millions, or one person in every twenty living under the American flag. There are more Norwegians in the United States by one hundred thousand than there are in this city of Kristiania, and we have more Swedes than has Stockholm by two hundred thousand. t? Kristiania—What the Capital Looks Like—A Winter Sport With Jumps of More 10 |0 Than One Hundred Feet and Marathon Races a Hundred Miles Long—The Great Holmenkollen Leap. QM%QQ@QQQ%@S “NORWEGIAN GIRLS ARE TALL, BLUEEYED AND FAIR-HAIRED. THIS SMILING COUNTRY MAIDEN WORKS IN THE FIELDS WITH HER FATHER AND BROTHERS.” —nm———— best of our citizens. They are far above the average of our foreign- born in education and in mechanical and literary abllity. We have no bet- ter farmers, and, as every one knows, they take naturally to politics and have almost as much to do as the Irish in governing our country. And, by the way, the Scandinavians remind one of the Irish, of whom it is written: “Sure 'tis the finest country of the finest nation ‘Wid a charmin’ pisintry upon a An’ hatin’ each other for the love of God.” Just now the Scandinavians are at peace, but they have gained strength by their wars of the past. TUntil about 1814 the Danes ruled the ..or- weglans, but when Napoleon was conquered, they lost out and Norway joined Sweden. Those two countries kept together until 1905, when Nor- way split away and became Inde- pendent, electing the brother of the present King of Denmark as ruler. It is no wonder that the Norwe- gians feel at home in the United | our pine lands of Michigan and Wis- consin. The farmhouses are not col- lected into villages as they are in France, Belgium and Germany. They stand out alone in the fields, and most of the buildings are of wood, just as with us. The houses of the towns and cities are largely frame and the villas about Kristlania have their counter- {parts in St. Paul and Minneapolis. Indeed, the best residence section here is not at all unlike the best streets of St. Paul. There are many i houses with gardens about them, and the frame coftage, with a multiplicity of gables, such as is common all over America, is everywhere in evidence. ‘The chief differench is in t'e roofs. Most of them are of shining tiles, usually red, but often black or yellow. The store bulldings in Kristiania are similar to ours asythey were be- fore we began to erect the skyscraper. They are of four, five or six stories and are built in much the same way. The stores look the same, except that they are smaller than in cities of the same size in the United States, but their windows are well arranged and the merchants are businesslike. Indeed, if you could take an air- plane and drop down into Kristiania out of the darkness, you might sup- pose yourself in an American city. The faces on the street would be just about the same and you would not travel through a wilderness of whiskers and mustaches in mingling with a crowd of these men. You ‘would find the people big-boned and husky, and the women tall and mostly blue eyed, fair haired and, I may say, attractive. You would find American goods in stores, American tools on the farms, and see that nearly all of the motor cars and motor cycles are of American make. Moreover, you would meet more motor trucks out in the country than in almost any other land of western Europe. * ok ok X UT come with me to Holmenkollen and see with your own eyes the capital of Norway. We can go there on an electric trolley, with a reel on the roof as big as a flour barrel. It will lift us into the air higher above Christiania than the top of the Eiffel Tower is above Paris and we shall have the city and harbor spread out before us. Our way up is past villas and patches of woods, and we land in one of the chief pleasure resorts of the Scandinavians. It is evening. The sun ia fust-sstting and we ha { below us one of the fine city views | of the world. I have looked down on the capitals of all the great nations. 1 recently stood on the Eiffel Tower war. I have described Rio de Janeiro and its wonderful harbor from the | Sugar-Loaf, a mighty rock that rises out of the sea facing the city, and | nave taken snap shots of Santiago de Chile from Santa Lucia, the high bluff crowned with gardens and treés that rises almost straight up in the midst of magnificent buildings en- circled by the silver-topped Andes. | T have looked down on Constantinople from the hills above Pera, upon Cairo with its wilderness of mosques and other domed buildings from the cita- del, and last, but not least, upon our own National Capital from the Wash- | ington Monument. Each of these | cities has its own beauty, but Chris- tiania compares favorably with all. It is at the end of a mighty fjord, which here is studded with green tslands, and has many bays backed by forest-clad hills. The houses begin near the water. They rise out of the green, their white walls and roofs of red tile forming a wonderful picture. We are so high we cannot hear a sound and the whole seems an em- blem of peace in this nolsy war- weeping continent. Such 1s the view from Holmenkollen in summer. The view in the winter, when everything is covered with snow, Is far finer and the surround- ings are then the gayest of all the homes of Jack Frost. Holmenkollen is where the skling derby is held. This is a great olympic meet of snow- shoers and skiers to which sports- men come not only from Norway but all other parts of north Europe. The Holmenkollen leap is made from a ledge not far from the site of the view I have described. The man on his skis jumps from this ledge, high over the heads of the spectators who are gathered on the frozen lake and on the hillsides below, and then glides down the slope. The jump is one of something like a hundred foet, and is watched by about 40,000 spectators, who have seats in the grandstand put up on each side of the course, or stand in the bleachers, which the space under the ledge may be called. The leap is always attended by the royal family, by the chief members of congress and the high soclety of Norway. The king himself is fond of skiing and he and the crown prince fre- quently engage in the sport during the winter. In this they are like some of the monarchs of the Norwe- glan past, who, even before the dis- covery of America, were noted for thelr contests in jumping and gliding on these long wooden shoes over the snow. * X ok *x KIING might be called the natfonal sport of the Norwegians. By whom it was originated no one knows, but 600 years before Christ these peo- ple were spoken of in the records as those who run on the ski. Even now this means of locomotion is used by the -farmers of some parts of the and photographed Paris after the| country, and it is said that the snow is often so deep that skiing of that nature starts in November and lasts until March. I am told that the children are | taught to ski very young. They prac- tice jumping over small things at first, increasing the extent of their leaps and slides as they Erow up. Many of the villages have their ski clubs and every little town has a tourist hut on the hills nearby where the skiers take shelter. There are skiing parties during the winter and young men and women go Off to- gether on long ski excursions. I have asked some questions as to just how skis are made. They are not like the snowshoe, which might be called a framework of strings fas- tened together somewhat like a ten- nis racket, but are really strips of board about as wide as the palm of a good-sized man and a foot longer than he is tall. In other words, they are above five Inches wide and about seven feet in length. The best wood is the ash, which can be easily bent 50 that it turns up a bit at the toe. The ski varies in thickriess through- out its length. In the middle, where the foot rests, it is an inch thick, but it grows thinner toward the front, curving up at the tip. It is fastened to the foot by straps and it should be well buckled on. On the down grade the skis are held parallel. The feet must be kept close together and the body well bal- anced. Sliding down hill the speed may be that of an express train, and there are marathon races in which one man has made the record of 138 miles fn a little over twenty-one hours. This man was a Lapp. Skiing forms a part of the training of the Norwegian army. The soldiers are required to be able to run upon skis and they practice being drawn on their skis behind a fast horse. Sometimes one man may ride the horse and have behind him severa! soldiers on skis, éach of whom is drawn along by a strap tled to the saddle. The soldiers make charges on skis. They run and jump and slide in formation over the snows, and when one remembers the winter fighting of the Italians and Austrians, he can see how, in a mountainous country like Norway, such training might be almost invaluable. (Copyright, 1923. by Carpenter's World Travels.) Ingenious Lighting. A NOVEL mode of electric lighting s that employed at a country club near Chicago. It appears that there are two garden foyers which form the terminus of the promenade, each of which measures thirty-six feet by seventy-two feet. The high arched cellings are tinted a faint sky blue. The light is all supplied from a seven-foot pedestal, which contains two 500-watt gas-filled tungsten lamps in silvered mirror reflectors. (Harsh shadows and glare are avoided with this indirect system of light- ing, and every detail of the decora- has been clearly brought out.