Evening Star Newspaper, June 10, 1923, Page 79

THE SUNDAY STAR port Clothes Assume New Imp WASHINGTON, D. C. JUNE 10, 1923—PART 5. i BATHING SUIT OF BLACK JERSEY SC THE CAPE IS LINED WITH FI GLAZED PAPER PARASOL. BY ANNE OR of time have iug tenmis. Tt is only within r vears that ti ave HOUSE. ation. American o1t hgth | play nt w3 en play al twice that le they been v have developed of dressin r these games that pro- es at the same time freedom of action. comfort. smartness and femi- ine charm. First they learned the| zame and then they learned to 1)|"~:«>I or the game. In truly Gallic fashion women went about the xactly the reverse fashion iecided te play tennis \was part of the post-war fad for al merican—and their first to develop an appropri- | dressing. Having .done ere in a fitter mood to go amazingly pro- ames themselves the French matter They | and If—it | | in| of that, they » work ar ficlent at the come BY FRANVK . CARPE R BERLIN New-Rich, Chiefl yEx-Pa up MANY rat- army who have and fall shady specula- to law, on the since the Ver- heehive ontracts. ¥ others made fortunes the the m and in tions, often contrary varying ditions sailles treat de, Many of these new rich were paupers in 1913, Some had little house industries. run- ning sweat-shops with few ma- .chines in the back rooms of tene- meut bufldings. As the war de- mands increased they bought more machines, and finally had enough money to establish factories and bid for big contracts and get made fortynes c a serew pin they had invented, and others olsted on the people and gavern- ment paper-soled shoes, shoddy cloth- 7ing and jerry-built houses. Hundreds massed wealth by selling goods they pretended to have, relying on the rise of prices to resell their contracts. All they had to do was to keep on buying and selling, for the prices| continually rose and they wers sure| to make money. ©One of the contemptuous names for 1hese new rich is “the schieber.”. The word comes from “schieben,” which means smuggling. the schiebers be- ing those who smuggled things in from Switzerland, Hollan "und Sweden during the y materials that were supp controlled hy the government There were many such and they made 4 great profit. These men are now engafed in chain-selling, which is forbidden by law. They find a cheap| product which can be smuggled into the country, or cheap goods made in .Germany which are escaplng the, taxes, and speculate in them. They| 1ake orders from one another, selling | the goods over and over, adding a commission, all of which comes out| of the ultimate consumer. For in-| stance, a schieber bought a lot of tent canvas when the army was be- ing dissolved at 10 cents aiyard. He| « oftered a brother schieber a part of { the stock at 15 cents a yard and 1ne latter sold the same stuff at 20 wents. In the meantime the price oft canvas went up and the goods passed | from hand to hand until they came} back @gain to the first sehieber, who pald 30 cents, not knowing he was: buglng back the same stuff he had: mold at 15. Most of. such selling is! without seeing the goods, the trans- actions being on paper, with the idea; that the last buyer will pay. L S N the lioney i rise was n them. Some or special ANY meén haye made money byl \/Iheumg on_the unearned incre- meht, buying echeap real estate selllng it as the prices have risen. idest of such purchases were made “om’ @ shoestring,” as the saying £oes, only ‘a small amount In cash helng Paid, with long-time notes for ghe balance. As the value of the mark fell the schieber was able to pay off the mortgage at one-hun- dredth or ome-thoysandth of its origl- nal value, and thus he grew: rich:| The conditions Lere have been just /biles and they . them. | standing of the schieber, and the in- in wool and In silk, have been favor- fter for molf this season. Many wumen prefer the one-plece Jersey frock to the separate skirt and over- blouse jackets, Tor warm weather these one-plece frocks are made in sleeveless mtyle or with very short sleeves. There fs always & lMttle Jacket or cape to be worn when one bas finished the game. Jackets of very bright color have been worn over frocks of white, sand or gray.| ! For the Lright jacket the French have | shown a preference for yellow, rose! and green. oo OR golf many women here are buy- ing lightwelght knitted sults, consfsting of scant wrap-aroynd skirts and stralght hip-length ack- ets. Bright, fairly light colors ure chosen In preference to those of sup- posedly more durable hue. In mod- | erate weather a thin sweator {8 worn | by way of a blouse beneath the jacket, | |'which may be discatded during the | game. But on warmer daye a slesve- | less blouse of white crepe de chine | |18 worn instead of the wool sweater. | A smart sult of this desoription | chosen by & well known Arherican sportswoman 18 of yellow knitted fabric bound with silk braid to matoh. It 1s worn with a sweater in shaded wool. The golt cape Is no longer a mem- ory of the past. But the 1083 model fs a very different garment from the &0If cape of 1000, The kolf vapes of today ware more varled; then there wes only one sort. It was mede of heavy reversible woolen material, | with an authentls Beotoh plaid on | one side and dark gray, blue, brown, | black—good “durable colors”—on the other. It had stitched bands f ed on the inside at the nd these crossed in front and went under the arms to button snugly at the walst in the back. The idea was, of course, that when you wore the cape on the golf course vou let it drop off the shoulders to give the arms | tree play and 1t hung at the back S| LLOPED WITH WHITE. SURED SILK, AND THERE IS A Says the French vritic: “Be ‘sport- ive' if you wis but first dress your- self ‘sportivement’.” Th American attitude would be rather Prove that you can play a good game and then go after the clothes.” Our idea of what is practical for sports wear has changed enormously within the past few vears. Once we would have seoffed at a white plaited crepe de chine skirt for any sort of sport. We would have thought light cliow most inuppropriate. A sleeve- less blouse would have seemed all wrong Only experience has taught | us that drab neutral colors and obvi- ously stout fabrics are not much more serviceable than the other sort, nd that perfectly bare arms solve the problem and give enor-! mous comfort in warm weather. The arms may become tanned: but what of that? Al sleeve of ‘Knitted materi, both the of tri those of other coun- deepest debt is for he can pay his in gold. in marks not worth the paper on which they are printed. The specu- lation in real estate is so promising that foreign® investors have bought up some of the best properties in_the chief German cities. There is one district of Berlin, known as the Ba- varian section because its streets are named after towns in Bavarla, where so much property has been acquired by Hollanders that the people have nicknamed it “Dutch Berlin." The Russians also own valuable real estate ! A great many of the schigbers have made money in food which they smugggled in and sold secretly when | the government had the nation on ra- tions, and a vast-deal has been made in buying and selling industrials, both here and abroad. These men belong to a different class from the really | great captains of industry, such as Hugo Stiunes and others. The latter | are doing an actual business in cash | and it is they whose milllons are supposed to he stored away in the na in the best off, contracted debts. which by means of this strapping. And always there was a hood, made of the muaterlal from which the cape was fashioned and showing the plald | lning. The hood of course was never | used as a hood, but served to give| added welght and warmth, usually, to the increased discomfort of the wearer. i They were distinctly Scotch—as Scotch as oatmeal or Bobbie Burns. Goodness knows how long men and women had been wearing capes of this general build in Scotland. Then when it was decreed by fashion that this cape was the correct wrap for golf players it became quite the fad for those who did not play golf. Gib- son drew some of his most charming girls wearing the golf cape and this added to its popularity. Then almost every one acquired a golf cape. The flappers of the day wore them to school. They became more plentifful in America than they had ever been in Scotland. The golf cape of today conforms to no distinct type. It is simply a cape that one wears with the frock or suft that one decides to wear when play- ing golf. A French dressmaker has designed a golf frock made of grav and red knitted fabric, with insets of fine plaiting at each side of the skirt to give fullness without adding ap- parent breadth. A little cape goe: ~ aaa = mAa A = Stories of the Scbieber; and Raftkes and Preferred Lobsters to Dickens—Madame Schieber Hands a Tip to Madame Senator and Gets a Sharp Retort—How the Parent of a Millionaire Handled a Finger Bowl—Visits to the Fashionable Restaurants and Dance Halls. banks of the sound financial natfons. | ] These people—and, in fact, all of the conservatives of Germany—have a contempt for the schiebers. The | common people hate them and class | with them all profiteers who are feed- ing fat off the miseries of their fel- lows The schiebers are khown by thelir ostentation. They go about in fur coats and rich raiment. They are among the few who have automo- always travel first class, They now own the fine houses and are gradually buying palaces in fashionable Berlin. One sees the | babies of these new millionaires, gor- } geously dressed, with nurses to match, in the parks. The Vend| nurses used to belong to the aristo- crats, but they are now emploved by the schiebers, as their fantastic caps are thought to be a sign of wealth on the part of the person who hires It is the schiebers who are now paying the greater part of the luxu! tax and they own what is known as| the luxury dog. Here in Germany we have dogs free of tax which labor, hauling carts as they do in Holland, There are also the common ours, which, if taxed at all, are taxed lightly. = But the halt-shaved poodle! and the _arlstocratic deer hound, reaching almost to the walat of his mistréss, have 3o pay & big llcense and form an important part of the luxury revenues. The old rich do not recognize the tellectuals (by whom I mean the pro- | fepsional men, artists, sclentists and Oterary characters) rather pride| themselves on thelr poverty in cen- trast. Indeed, all sorts of storiesare told of the mistakes made by the new rich. One T heard today relates to ‘a student who recently asked his schieber hostess whether she liked Dickens. She replied: “I can't say that 1 care for them, We had somo at Hiller's restaurant, on Unter den Linden. the other dav. but really loh- sters are more to niy taste.™ with it, made of the plaited mat rial, no longer than a Bir Walter Raleigh cape. It fastens easily with ibbons in front. So light it is that BEAUTY CHATS Olear, Bright Eyes. The woman who i3 weeking to re- tain her youth and attraction has one consoling thought. No matter how o0ld her face and figure may become, her eyes will always stay young If she wishes them to be so. are only meen when the woman has either given up all hope of getting anything further from life or when she doesn't care. The best part of it is that the eyes grow more beautiful the older the 1an becomes, so they can always balance, or more than balance, the lessening attractions of her other features. “As th€ moon gives most light when it is full, so a woman's eyve yields most in maturity. So says a famous writer What they yleld in the way of gen- tleness, vivaeity. intelligence or sweetness depends not only the woman as she is today but on what she has been. The eves are a woman's past and present ers, w on A= old oyes | 1f she has let her- | & CHERRY.COLORED SCARF EM. BROIDERED IN BLUE, AND A HAT THAT MATCHES. AT RIGHT, GRAY SUEDE HAT WITH PLAITED GROSGRAIN RIBBON ABOUT THE HIGH CROWN. it could not interfere with free arm play even if it were worn while play- ing, but most of these little golf capes { are mede to be worn when one is in repose after the game and needs light protection over the shoulders. Besides these little plaited capes By Edna Kent Forbes. [ wolf become narrow and crabbed the | fll-nature will show out, but with flashes ulso of the happler creature she might have become. 1f she is dull and indifferent to all the possibilities of life her eyes will be dull and in- different, but they will never be as bad as her nature, because some of her old youth and vivacity must come out now and then. But if she has grown in sweetness and strength with the years, her eyes will hold the record of all her struggles and tri- umphs. Of course, the woman must take physically good care of her eves. The most wistful soul loses its appeal when it peers out in & near-sighted squint! The eves must be rested, they must never be too severely ey should be washed frequ 3 with an antiseptic solution. If th need glasses, an oculist should be con- sulted. It s true that the eye is the soul's window, but, like window, it neede to be kept clean and clear. Thoughts can be most properly ex- preesed through healthy eyes A How They Made Their Money—The Lady Who ARARARAMAR A A AAAA AR R ithat are worn with tennis frocks | @8 well as for golf, there are others l/of more generous proportions, cnor- mous, shapeless things, that the golf player wraps about her after the game with the easy comfort shown by a foot ball player as he wraps himeelt into his blanket when he has gone off the fleld. The true sportswoman either wears no hat at all or one that is light in weight and - perfectly comfortable | The hat of suede or kid is undoubt- | edly smart, and is well enough for | cool resorts. There is, however, a | new fabric that imitates almost per- { fectly the finish of suede, and sport hats of this material are of feather welght. There are lots of white | glazed and kid sport hats trimmed with kid tassels or fringed. Quite often the crown is cut like sectians | of a melon, and these are laced up | with silk laces or strips of the | leather. To be shod in leather and .capped | in leather is not always enough. The | sportswoman usually owns a leather- | trimmed coat besides. The smartest | verston of the camel's hair.coat 1s in | a belge shade, with collar and cuffs |of brown suede with designs . in | punched work. A woman as well | known for her smart dressing as for her love for outdoor sports has & brown sport coat with fringed leather collar and cuffs, For most purposes the all-leather coat is hardly practicable for summer wear, though the aviatrix the woman who hunts in northern lati- tudes may find the leather coat her wisest choice. A hunting coat of suede leather. either gray or tan lined with red flannel, is shown at one of the smart shops. It is made | 50 that you may wear it either leather |'side out or leather side in, with red flannel showing. Gray ' corduroy knickerbockers are chosen by women who follow the fashion even when stalking game. The scarf is an accessory some women spurn for sports w. But it is stil] quite smart, and often adds -a touch of distinction to an otherwise usual looking frock or suit Often the only bright color in the | whole arrangement is introduced by | means of the scarf. A cherry colored scarf, fringed with blue, gives zest { enough to a gray knitted suit and gray and black hat, TEE or UITE the most startling of all £ports stockings are those show- ing vivid pla They are made of silk more often than of wool, a judging from the prominence they have recelved in the displays of the shops, they will be fairly usual at our country clubs before the month ts out The plaids we wear in sports clothes may be quite Scotch, but the fad for wearing them comes to us from France. Seemingly the French woman has not grown tired of them. Plaid materials are used for various sorts of smal] sports hats. For sum- mer days, when we will want to wear cotton and linens, there are frocks of Indian cottons displaying very large and very loud plalds in the brightest hues. Quite new are large handkerchiefs on the bandana order printed with large Scotch or near- Scoteh platds The large printed handkerchief has heen taken over as an accessory for bathing costumes, but rest assured that by midsummer it will be almost .| @ room, the walls of which are of| /| brocaded satin as red as the sun at| GAMBLING AT ROULETTE FOR BOTTLES OF WINE IS THE NEWEST INDOOR SPORT OF BERLIN, CHIEFLY ENGAGED i% BY THE NEWLY RICH AND THOSE WHO HAVE BEEN LUCKY IN THEIR SPECULATION IN MARKS. The student thereupon asked the| Senator to explain the scene on the| wife were ostentatious in showing|events, but he is a well known char- lady what she thought of Beethoven's latest novele. She answered: T like them all right, but I thought he was ed this on the fact that she had lately bought & ploture | of him and that portraits of literary men were seldom sold until they were | dead. She had no idea that Beetho- ven was & composer of music. ok oW ok Axo'rmm story now golng the rounds {s about a mohleber who had ordered his wife's portrait paint- ed by n well known Dresden artist, When the ploture wha complated he asked his wife how she liked it, She was delighted, and the schiober osteAtatiously sald to the artist: “You may make me a domen and a half exact coples of this 1t was at the opera house in Hame burg that the wife of a rioh sohisber and the wife of a former senater of the old regime sat side by glde, when Mme. Schleber asked Mrae. stage. next pause and Mme. Schieber was 80 delighted that she asked whether Mme. Senator always sat in the seat that she then ocoupled. The latter replied that she could not afford to 80 to the theater often and was there only because she had a free ticket from a friend who was unable to us it. Theroupon Mme. Benator felt a hand creeping toward hors and when the lights came on she found sho had been givon a buneh of notes of small denominations—'"chicken food,” asthe Germans call’ them~—which Jjust equaled two coils. Bhe was amused and handed baock tho money, with the sarcastio remark that she was always glad to give information gratis to those whe had not had a chance to loarn things fa sohool, And Just one more story, goncerne ing a practieal old man whese men was a schieber. The son was giving house warming and both he and his Mme. Senator did so at the|their new dishe and aristocratic methods of serving. The old man grew warmer and warmer as innova- tion after innovation appeared, until, ‘when the finger bowls were brought in, he raised one to his lips and, look~ ing around the table, sald he sup- posed water was all right in the after-war days, but as for him he nlways preferred a dash of whisky in his. The face of Mme. Sohiebor flushed fire, but- the father drank, nevertheless. Another olass of the new rich s known as the “raffkes” The word comes from ‘raffen” whish moans to sweep together and oarry off hastily, The raffike is sesond cousin to the schiober, o makes money fn the wtook emchange, backed by tips and bowvvowed funds, and ofton cames home a mavk millianaipe, Hn (5 of & ifttle higher grade tham the schieber, for he must know something of stocks be able” to foresee tremd of acter In Germany. He s of all cl from the big raffke who starts with some capital to the little raffke Who climbs up from the gutter. The little raftke may live in a small apartment in & poor nelghborhood and have to figure on every cent of his household oxpenses when he starts in to speculate. He rapldly and within a few months may some milllons of marks. He gots w cook and maid for his moves into a botter nelghbor- and olimbs to a higher moclal He buys & houso or bullds one, aging overything to the limit, and paying his debts as the mark {alls lower and lower, Ho may have borrowed 10,000,000 marks when the mark was 3,000 to the dellar, an amount that was then equal to §10,000 in gold, If he has net already paid the notes, he can now clear off his mortgage for about,$500, making a clear profit of 53,700 s debts nerely by payir as numerous as the sands of the sea.| o It will be swathed around the head over a rubber cap in every concelv- able manner, gypsy. Turkish and pirate leading tion Black w for bathing suits bathing suits—and bathing s But is the re colored it the suit s black much ltked, and some of the smartest sults are made with black taffeta knickers and a black tunle worn over them Black je rsev ix an excellent selec- IT is the schiebers and raffkes who are the chief support of the gam- bling hells of Berlin and of the dance halls, at some of which the girls wear only a little more clothing than Eve preceding the fall. The gambling 8oes on in well appointed parlors and in every grade of society. It is for all sorts of stakes, from millions of marks down to bottles of wine, which are sometimes won at roulette. Some of these dance balls are pal- 2ces. There is one hin a short distance of the palace of President Ebert which accommodates 500 peo- | ple. The dancing floor is eurrounded by tables, at which men and women sit drinking champagne, watching the crowd whirling about in semi-licen- tlous dances. Some of the people are eating. and at ell such dance halls one can get excellent food. There are several hundred in Berlin, and untfl the French came fnto the Ruhr and ! cut down the coal supply the dancing went on‘the greater part of the night. The schlebers and raffkes and the forelgners keep up the big hotels and restaurants of Berlin You may them at the Adlon, the Esplanade, the Kalserhof and other high-priced | hotels, and the tourlsts, considering | them a type-of existing conditions, see cannot realize tha bankruptcy of Ger- | | many. And, indeed, it is hard to belleve in these storfes of poyerty when one | goes to the resorts of the rich. Take the Mercedes restaurant, where I | dined 1ast night. It is on.Unter den Linden, two blocks from the Branden- burg Tor.. A man In uniform opens the door. We check our coats with | the two glris in the lobby and enter | its setting. The windows are of | stained glass, like those of a church, and three great electrio chandellers| | of cut glass hang from the white pan- |‘elea cefling. From this we go Into a cfreular | room, with similar windows, bit with | walla of carved ebony, curtalned with velvet, and a celling which is a dream of decoration in carving. Both rooms have many smail tables and ®ach has a crowd as well dressed as any you will find {n New York. The linen fs of the finest damask. There is wine on each tablo and the wine glasses come from Bohemia. - ‘The waliters speak English and French as well as German, and everything seems.to be at the pinnacle-of luxury and good taste until you look at the schiebers. Some seem to be at & loss in their dress clothes, .Here is one who has tucked his napkin under his ¢hin and another has trouble in keeping the peas from rollling off .his knife -on their way to his mouth. Tho most of the crowd, however, | arc ns well behaved, If T may except places of the world, And then the food at these restau- rants! It would tempt @& Lucullus, and ona cannot imagine that just over the way people are in fags and half starved, We plok up a menu and order a dinner for two, We have first oclear turtle soup, then a flsh, with a pheasant cooked while we walt, a salad of lettuce and tomatees, and ! asparagus; with fruit and fce cream But t6 achleve orlgi-| nality one must make other selec-| unitorm color| There are colored the color 1is! laces, not specified, take it for granted that| Black taffeta is| ! found in every part of Berlin the joud talking, as those in similar | ortance in the Season’s Fashions tion—not the close-fitting jersey suit that ‘started by being a little shoe ing and ended by being very commen place, but the jersey bathing sult ¢ut on straight lines. Even laces have invaded the realm of bathing suits. So don't be sur prised this summer 1f you encounte S — BLUE SKIRT AND COAT, WITH CHECKED VEST. THE COAT 1S LINED" WITH MATERIAL: OF seashore acquaintance of other vears wearing a black bathing suit with & modesty plece of ruffies of nar- row valenciennes. And perhaps there will be little frills of the lace show- ing beneath the short sleeves. Don't put this down as midsummer mad- ness; it is already an accepted fash- fon. Ribbons will not be outdons by and there are bathing suits entirely made of rows of ribbon (Copyright, 1033.) e The olivo lives longer than any other fruit tree. In Syria they have been known to have borne abundant crops for four centurles. OverrunBerlin While Others Starve for dessert, and coffee to close. We have wine with our meal. and the whole costs for the two just about one American dollar. As I look ove: the bill I find that the pheasant is put down at 25 cents. I have seen the same item an a la carte menu in New York with the price at 3$5. charge for the asparagus, tran into American money, equals 10 cent: and the delicious clear turtle soup 133 cents. These prices seem cheap out of all reason, and they are ev. dence to many travelers of the good condition of Germany, in that one can buy food so cheaply: When it ix remembered, ‘however. that out of these small sums must be pald the farmers who ralsed the vegetables the hunters who shot the game, the wholesale and retail market men, the cooks who prepared the meals and the gaiters who served them and the general upkeep of this gorgeous restaurant, one sees that the scale of wages must be exceedingly low and the people equally poor * x UT the Germans who are not rich eat in restaurants, too. The old conservatives who have lgst their fortunes cannot dine at a score of such establishments as I have de- scribed. Some of them patronize the middle-class wine restaurants, such ‘as Kempinski's, where one ‘gets good meal with a glass of wine for about 25 cents. or they can go to the Munich beer restaurants, where the: can have a glass of beer for 15 cents or to restaurants of a still lew class which serve a quick lunch and beer at from 6 to § cents. The people who frequent these places start read ing the bill of fare at the prices and the meal is chosen to suit the purse not the stomach. There are also sma:- taxi driver haunts where a meal with a jigger of whisky fs served for less than 5 cents In addition to the restaurants of which I have written, there are gome which the forefgner seldom finds ithout seeking. These are the pun lic kitchens and those of the middle class. Public “kitchens are to he They are supported partly by the oustom- ers who pay from 1 cent to 14 cen per meal, partly by the gifts of chur. table people and partly by the mu- ‘nicipality. The food is good, but it consists. mostly of vegetables, served in a bowl and eaten with a spoon. Bread seldom accompanies such meals. The middle-class kitchens are main- tained in co-operation with the Housewives’' League. They serve din- ners at an exceedingly low price, and so far have been self-supporting. They are frequented by the educated middle class and to some extent by - the former nobility ‘and rich who are too proud to accept charity. These restaurants are plainly furnished They have clean Wooden tabies, upon which often are flowers. The cus- tomers are quiet and well behaved and the waitresses are often reduced gentlewomen who are glad to do work of this kind for the warm meal they recelve free of charge.. Only the kitchen help get a salary, and the cooks are often pupils of the cooking schools kept up by the Housewlyves' League, (Copyright, 1928, by Carpenter's World ravels,)