Evening Star Newspaper, June 3, 1923, Page 83

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C JUNE 3, -1923—PART 5 What the June Bride Will Observe in Selectmg Her T rousseau;% BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. HERE 1Is no subject about which a young woman usually asks 80 much advice as this subject of her trousseau—and 15 TRt S, oAl 3 (el AFTERNOON FROCK OF ORCHID no subject about which she take less. The bride-to-be asks her mother and her best friend, her dressmaker, and, mayhap. her flance, what sort of CHIFFON TRIMMED WITH LACE. ' panels. frock is most appropriate for going away, and ends by selecting a frock the like of which had been mentioned by none of her advisers. The dret maker counsels a one-piece frock, with wrap to match—and she selects a three-piece suit. Her mother urges lightweight wool—the daughter se- lects crepe de chine. An elder sister sssures her that a stralght, plain skirt is best suited for travel, but the willful bride decides on plaited The flance casually remarks that he thinks navy blue most becom- ing, but the headstrong little bride chooses dove gray because a recent distinguished bride “went away” in & gown and wrap of that color. So what's the use? What profits it to visit the shops and the dressmakers and closely to scrutinize the new mode to find_its best offerings for the bride and her trousseau, when the chances are that the bride won't take a word of ad- vice?” Probably ‘she settled the im- portant points of her trousseau the very day after she became engaged, possibly before. The American bride usually regards it as her exclusive privilege to select the design for the bridesmaids’ frocks, and the wise bridesmaid ac- cepts the bride's verdict without a murmur, even though the frock de- cided upon may be anything but be- coming. - But unless the bride in- sists on paying the dressmakers' bills she should not select a gown so bizarre that it cannot be worn on some future oocasion “A little banale, but charming,” is the way a French observer has de- scribed the “robe de style,” or “period frock,” as worn by the bridesmaid of today. Verlly we have had an abundance of bridesmalids dressed quaintly in close-fitting basques and Bouffant skirts. There is certainly nothing novel in the Idea. one’s bridesmaids are young and pre- possessing the result is surely charm- ing. The period frock for the brides- maid and maid of honor has been popular for several seasons here as abroad. At a recent wedding of a charming bride the wedding gown itselt and those of the attendants were clever adaptations of gowns de- picted on the canvases of Burne Jones, chief of the English pre- Raphaelites. * ok %k EILED bridesmaids are something of a novelty, though, of course, the fashion is merely a revival of a very anclent custom. The veils are short, sometimes draped merely at the side and back and sometimes over the face as well. White taffeta bride- maids’ frocks ~that have attracted much comment are trimmed with daisies. The short tulle veils over hair and face are held at the brow with bandeaux of daisies. Obviously enough, the bouquets to be carried with such frocks are large bunches of daisies. The bride's dress to be worn with these frocks_has a short lace veil, which, by way of contrast, does not cover the face. There is a “Sunday-best” appear- ance that the bride surely wants to avoid in selecting her going-away costume. It is & look that proclaims the recentness of the wedding quite as promptly as bits of rice or con- fetti clinging to one’s hat or.lodged in the crevices of one's wrap. There is & certain much-to-be-desired cas- But when | ualness that may be affected in the selection of one's frock, wrap and accessorfes—the sort of casualness that Lady Bowes Lyon achieved when she, wore a brown cloche with her going-away frock and wrap of dove- gray crepe. Of course, Lady Bowes Lyon couldn't have hoped to conceal ber identity anywhere in- England, but there must have been a certain satisfaction in not looking too pat- ently a bride even when every one in the realm knew you were. The cloche or poke is an excellent cholce for the golng-away hat. There are some modified pokes, very abbre- viated as to back and with front turned up off the face a bit that are newer than the regulation poke of the season. Felt hats are in excel- lent style and recommend themselves strongly. to the bride who intends to have a motor wedding trip. The hatbox should contain, if pos- sible, -one large transparent hat of tulle or lace. Brown tulle hats of large drooping shapes have a strong appeal at present to the woman of discrimination. They may be worn when one needs to wear a hat in the evening and with light frocks of the garden party type as well. Organdie hats are new and smart, but their usetulness is limited, so un- less you have a very large hatbox and can afford many hats, choose some other sort. Small shapes of BEAUTY CHATS ‘Well Defined Eyebrows. The formula frequently given for evelashes is also an excellent tonic for making the evebrows grow. I will repeat it here first and then go on to explain a new way of freshen- ing tired eyes and removing traces of tears. The ointment formula Is as follows: Cocoa butter, 1 dram; white wax (or paraffin), 4 drams; lanoline, % dram; ol of sweet almonds, 4 drams; per- fumed ofl, 2 drops. This is a heavy cream, which is splendid for producing hair. As it contains nothing that could possibly injure the eye, I always recommend it for eyelashes. Of course, an ordi- nary hair tonic could be used on the eyebrows, but as the girl with scanty brows usually has scanty lashes also, this cream will probably be most use- ful. I have one word of warning. Whatever you use here, use only on the actual part of the skin where you want the hair to grow, otherwise you may overdo the treatment and | have shagey brows. Now for the new remedy to remove all traces of tears. Perhaps, however some of my readers already know i You simply use tea, bathing the lids with the hot liquid and then dipping a handkerchief or bit of old muslin into the tea and holding it as & com- press for about ten minites over the closed lids. - This does away with the redness and strained, swollen feeling | that makes the eyes hurt so after erying. And, by the way, a cup of good hot tea taken internally is an excellent thing to take if you have been cry- ing: it is soothing to tired nerves and at the same time a little stimu- lating. | sctssors which bright colored silk are enjoying con- siderable vogue at present, but there are sports hats of the “squash me it you can variety”—collapsible hats that can be tucked away in an 'in- credibly small space—that are bet- ter chosen when one plans to travel. * ok ok % ‘HIS is a seasorn of laces—Ilaces that are draped to form the entire overdress, Jaces that trall on the ground, or are drawn up at the front in the Egyptian manner or up at the back to stimulate the 1880 bustle. Nafrow "laces are useq lavishly 'to edge ruffies and folds of chiffon and georgette. Narrow laces, notably valenciennes, are dyed to match the material with which they are used. Frills of ecru- dyed valenciennes lace are used on a voile frock of ecru tint. Orchid, pink, yellow, pastel shades of green and violet, are all used in combination with narrow dyed lace. Some of the new laces have been dyed in shaded effects, so that the flowers and leaves are of a deeper shade than the mesh of the lace. For the practical type of summer frock that can be washed volle is very often selected. Much organdie is used, and very frequently it is lace trimmed, but there is always the difficult problem of keeping the char- acteristic crispness in organdie, and. of course, it never goes through the By Edna Kent ¥orbes. Manicure Scissors. One of the most useful implement's invented is the little pair of manicure every woman pos- sesses. It's much too useful, for it tempts one to keep the edges of the nails smooth by cutting away the little pleces of skin that:collect and grown down over the nail. It's so much easler to cut off this skin than to keep it pressed back gently into place, for if it Is cut smoothly the natls will look well for about a week and need not be tou¢hed, whereas the orangewood stick must be used once or twice # day to Keep them nice looking otherwise. The various cuticle removers on the market are a boon to the woman who cannot afford the time or expense of a professional manicurist. These re- move the dead skin from the nail and in most cases give a smooth finish without any further trouble. How- ever, great care must be taken, for these, .which are only diluted oxallc acid, are very drying, and in the end will make this tender skin rough and dry. Whenever a cuticle remover is used, the fingers should be scrubbed thoroughly with warm water, soap and a small brush after the dead skin has been scraped away. Then a little cream should be rubbed thoroughly into the nails and around them and allowed to stay on several ‘minutes. There are times, of course, when manicure scissors must be used. Even the cuticle remover will leave jagged ends, and it will never get out the odd bits of skin that collect on each side of the nail in those little cor- ners where the nail grows out of the flesh. But do not overdo the manicure- scissors habit. Cuticle, cut too often, will grow tough and unsightly. laundry with satisfactory resait. ‘White organdie, however, was used with enthusiasm by many of the French dressmakers last winter in interpreting the mode of the second empire, and there is no type of frock that has been produced in this coun- try for warm-weather wear that is more interesting than the second em- pire white organdie frock—with its snug basque, its drooping shoulder line and its bouffant rufiled skirt. Sev- eral clever June brides have included a frock of this description in their trousseaux. Sports clothes are playing a role of ever-increasing importance in the bride’s trousseau. The plaited skirt, so deservingly popular for sports wear during late winter and spring, has, to some extent, been superseded by the straight, rather scant, flannel skirt—preferably of white. This type of skirt worn with a white overblouse gives the most appropriate foundation for one of the new bright-toned sports jackets that give touches of vivid color to every smart.golf course and country club veranda in the land. American beauty and white checked silk has been used in the making of one of the smartest of these sports jackets. It is straight and short, with a regulation notched collar, and is worn over a white walstcoat. (Copyright, 1923.) Cream of Lettuce and Rice Soup. Wash four medium-sized heads of lettuce, separating the leaves. Drain and place in a kettle in the bottom of whilch has been placed some butter or cooking oil—about tbree -table- spoonfuls. In this fry the lettuce, and when beginning to turn color slightly add a seasoning salt, pepper, a little celery seed, two handfuls of parsley, three-fourths of a cupful of dry, uncooked rice and two quarts of chicken stock or milk and water mixed. Cook for three-fourths of an hour. Put through a colander. Add one or two tablespoonfuls of cream and serve. The rice may be omitted and a thickening made of three table- spoonfuls each of flour and butter. —_— Cream of Macaroni au Gratin. Boil three-fourths of a cupful of macaroni, broken.in pleces an inch in length, in boiling salted water un- til tender. Drain, rinse in cold water, and drain again.” Make a sauce of two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, one-fourth teaspoonful each of salt and pepper, and one cupful of rich milk. Mix the macaroni through the sauce, mixing in at the same time half a cupful or more of grated cheese. Turn into a shallow dish, cover with half a cupful of cracker | crumbs mixed with three tablespoon- fuls of melted butter, and let brown in the oven. Nut Wafers. Beat two eggs well and add them to one cupful of brown sugar. Next add one-half a cupful of nut meats, pref- erably walnut, butternut or hickory nuts, chopped fine, and two tea- spoonfuls of flour. Drop by small teaspoonfuls on buttered tins and bake in a slow oven until brown. About a hundred pins are produced each year in this country for every person. WHITE BEADED GEORGETTE COMBINED WITH BLACK TAFFETA. Future Gold Value of Mark Like the Gold Gfains in the Ocean BY FRANK G. CARP) LL Germany is crazy over the rise and fall of the mark, and as 1 try to follow Its multi- tudinous gyrations® 1 feel erazy, too. I have spent this week in the stock exchange and among the big bankers in a.hopeless endeavor to find just where the ébony angel in the woodpile Is hiding. T have given up In despair. This Teutonic madness is such that it is impossible for the out- sider to comprehend it, and just who is making the profits I am unable to say In the first place, det me state just what the mark is: Before the war it was a silver coin of the value and size of a quarter. It took four marks to equal one dollar, and there were twenty-mark goldpieces worth as much as five dollars. As the war went on the silver coins turned to paper, and one-mark notes, about the size of a business visiting card, took their plac There were five and ten mark notes, which were a little larger, THIS GERMAN BANKER, FRANZ VON MENDELSSOHN, “THE ROTHSCHILD OF BERLIN,” SAYS HE: BELIEVES AMERICA WILL GAIN A FINANCIAL AD- VANTAGE BY TAKING A MORE ACTIVE PART IN EUROPEAN AFFAIRS. and we gow have ten-thousand-mark notes as dig as a page of social note paper. The denominations are still increasing. At the first'of this year they jumped from ten thousand to twenty. thousand, and the country ‘will soon be flonded with bills of fifty- thousand and one ‘hundred thousand marks each. As'it is ngw, the one-mark and five- mark notes are not worth the paper on which they are printed, but those of the high denominations are enor- mously valuable In comparison with their cost, and the government in this way is runming a printing business with a. product which brings in tens of millions of dollars. The chances are that none of the marks will have any permanent value, and the busi- ness resolves itself into that of a printing establishment pure and sim- ple, where the power of the money is all profit. The reischsbank paid a dividend of 8% per cent in 1920. It pald 10 per cent in 1921, and it ought to pay many tlmes that this year if it has any commission on the money it ls- sues. During my stay here I have visited the Institution and had a talk with some 'of the high officials. 1 have asked them «o0 let me see the printing presses which aye now turn- ing out from fifty to seventy-five bil- lion' marks per day, but have been re- fused. ¥k k¥ NE'S head grows dizzy as he tries to comprehend the enormous pumber of marks in circulation and the extent to which the Germans are going in debt, as estimated in these paper promises to pay. I have fig- ures stating that the amount is now something like twenty trillion, or twenty thousand billion marks, and that the budget of tae government last year showed a deficit of over seven thousand billion marks. I have tried to figure out what these sums might mean If one bad to count them. Let us go back to the time of the pyramids and put the treasury ex- perts of Tut-ankh-Amen at work. Let us suppose them, like the Wandering Jew, endowed with perpetual life and forced to keep -going. How long would it take to count the financial output of the Germans if the same were divided Into notes of one mark? We shall give each expert a counting capacity of sixty marks per minute, or thirty-six hundred marks an hour, and let him work twelve hours every day for the three hundred working days of each year. At this rate one man could count just about thirteen million marks per annum, and it would take him eighty vears, or the maximum lifetime, to ‘count up to one billion. It would take him eighty thousand years to count every tril- lion, and sixteen hundred thousand years to go garefully over the twenty trillions which the Germans have is- sued. Supposing King Tut-ankh- Amen to have lived six thousand years ago, he might have put 266 ex- perts’ at such counting and they would be still on the job. Do you ‘wonder the thought makes one crasy? This speculation in marks is going on not only in Germany but all over the world. Every country of Europe isiengaged in it, and the great finan- cfal nations have losses running into the hundreds of millions of dollars. It is estimated that more than $1,000,- 000,000 in paper marks have been sold”in the United States, and that more than 10,000,000 American specu- lators have lost their money that way. The British losses are estl- mated at $800,000.000, and the car- toonists of London afe laughing at the “gulls” who have been feeding the Germans.” Here, for instance, is a verse printed under a cartoon pub- lished by the Daily Express not long ago: P It Would Take One Man Sixteen Hundred Thousand Years to Count the Money That Has Been Issued If Each Unit Were a Single Mark—Berlin Stock Exchange the Gambling Hell of the Nation and Much of the Speculation Is in the Inflated Currency — Futile Attempt to Dis- . cover Who Makes the Profits. HIGH HATS IN FRONT OF THE BERLIN STOCK EXCHANGE, WHERE FORTUNES ARE MADE AND LOST IN A MAD SPECULATION IN MARKS. Ve ‘don'd vant to pay, But, by Chinko, if ve do, e got no ships, Ve've got no col. Und ve gif de marks to you. In former letters I have shown how the fall of the mark has financially ruined the masses of Germany, but the nation in one way or another has involved the whole world in this speculation and gotten some billions of dollars for nothing. How many of the billions still remain here and how much of the sum is on deposit to the credit of the great German speculators in the banks of outside nations I do not attempt to conjec- ture. -y * ¥ ok % UT coms, with me to the Berlin Stock Exchange. It is the great gambling hell of the nation and we can see the financlers buying and selling. There are 6,000 men entitled 10 enter, and they Tepresent custom- ers from all over Germany and from all parts of the world. It used to be that any one might have access to the galleries but Mm L bomb \ Ve ex- ploded in Wall street, all entrances to the Berlin bourse have been closely guatrded and now no stranger is ad- mitted unless by special introduction and card from one of the chief offi- clals. I had a card from the presi- dent of the exchange and was able to have an interview with the director and ager during my stay. In this talk I asked him who was doing the chief speculating. He re- plied: “I:do not know any one who Is not. I am sure there is none in this build- ing. Every one from the bank pres! dent. to the taxi-driver, and from the wife of the millionaire schieber to the washerwoman, is betting on the rise and fall of the mark. Even the com- munists and sociallsts speculate, & though every day or so I get & letter from one of them threatening to blow the exchange and all of its members into the air.” “What do you think of the future of the mark?” “It has mo future so long-as the reparstions now demanded obtall Germany is like & bankrupt with just enough blood to keep life in’his body, and it is from that little that the na- tions are trying to squeeze the great sums demanded.” 1t was with the director that I went over the building. It is a huge stone structure on-the bank of the Spree, and to it are belng made additions which will cost about $4,000,000. The men were working on the new build- ing as we passed through. They were plasterers, sculptors and cabinet makers. I asked some of them as to their wages. The plasterers, who do as good work as those who get $20 a day in Chicago, are laboring .here at 8 cents an hour, and the other work- men recelve just the same. The wom- en cleaning the halls told me they get 2 cents an hour. But the wages are pald in marks an@ the sums go up and down with the rise and fall of ex- change. Entering the ralleries, T found the everal acres below filled with & mov- ing quilt of humanity.” The quiit was composed of human heads, more than kalf of them bald, resting dn short and often thick necks above black and gray business-clad shoulders. Scattered over the floor were square pens filled with clerks and about them were: scores of .men, pushing their way, recording - their orders. to buy and to sell. There were,crowds here @nd there, frantically waving their bands as in the exchange in New York, and the brokers formed whirl- pools in which they shoved and pushed in the mad crazc of the mark. At times it made me think of a storm #at sea, the winds of which were this inflated currency, whose future gold value is about as much per cuble yard &s the infinitesimal gold grains in the ocean. During my stay the hour for closing approached. All orders have to go in within a fixed time or they must wait 1 next day and then depend. wpon the rise or fall o the mark. This brings much of the business into a few minutes while the bell rings and millions change hands as the loss of time may mean-the loss of,a fortune. the great clocks of the chamber. The rooms and this lasts for ten minutes At this time the brokers do not stop to watch the-clocks. All strive to the utmost to get in their orders, making one think of & fire in a theater where the crowd has rushed to the doors. * x * % EFORE I went to the exchange .l had a chat with Herr Franz von Mendelssohn, the president of the Berlin Chamber of Commerce, one of the most conservative of the great German bankers. The Mendelssohns have been noted as financiers for many generations. They rank with the Rothschilds and Morgans and have to do with placing large loans and transactions involving hundreds of millions of dollars. Their story is an interesting one. Moses von Men- delssohn, the foundér of the family, arrived in Berlin in 1721 with'a bun- dle on his back. He-was a Jew, the son of a synagogue clerk in the little German town of Dessan, and it is eald that he came into Berlin on foot. At that time Jews were not al- lowed to enter German cities except under certain conditions, and Moses had to ally himself to a silk mer- chant in order to stay. He soon owned the business, made money hand over fist, and died leav- ing a great fortune to his sons, Jos- eph and Abraham. They founded the banking house of Mendelssohn's sbout one hundred years ago, and the old buflding in which they started still stands next their bank, having Dbeen kept there as a matter of senti- ment. The Mendelssohns have always had a large influence here, mot dnly in money matters but in almost every- thing relating to educatioh, music and art. Moses was a friend of Les- sing.and Herder, noted as friends of Goethe. He wrote a book on “The Life- After Death.” Abraham and Joseph were closely associated with the brothers Humboldt, and Abra- ham's son was Felix Mendelssohn- Bartholdy, whose music is played all over the world. Franz von Mendels- sohn s also a musiclan and he gives many charity concerts at which he sometimes plays the piano: My interview with Herr von Men- delssohn was a rambling chat as to the Germany of today. I asked him as to stabilization of the mark and he replied: That is almost impossible until this reparations question is settled. It we could have & credit of a half billion gold marks from the outside, the Reichsbank might add as much more from its gold reserve and this would result in stabilization. The gold from the outside need not neces- sarily be a loan: It might be only a credit.” “How about the statements which are frequently made that the Ger- man captains of industry prefer a low mark, in that it 'gives them a cheaper production cost, enabling them to sell their goods in foreign markets lower than they can be prodiced in other countries?” ' “I think that is an error,” replied . Herr von Mendelssohn. “The German manufacturers prefer ‘a. high mark, hat they can mkt contracts and do The hour fgr closing is announced b):T:nd it-is only by a stabilized mark ding<donging ‘of their bells fills the busin “Is Germany In any danger of Bul- shevism?" “Not if we.can improve our nomic conditions, but if we do have help from the outside I fear shall soon be in' the same situatio as Austria, and if the situation grows worse- there is the possible danger of bolshevism. ‘“What are the chances of a between Germany and Russia asked. “Al]l of the nations are doing t! best to get what trade they can wi the Russians,” replied Herr von Me delssohn, “but the Russians are tco clever to give a monopoly to any one nation. I think things are growing better in Russia, but they move slowly. The “country may Dossibly - recover under the present regime, but it it does the progress will bLe gradual and it will take a long time.” “What do you think the United States should do in the present situ- ation In Europe?” “I belleve that this world is too closely connected financlally: for a great entity llke the United States to act Independently of the other na- tions. You cannot afford to leave Europe alone. Your country should take a live, active interest in affairs this side of the water, and I believe it will be to your financial advantage to do so.” eco- * ok x ¥ HE, rise and fall of the mark has made the Germans a nation of gamblers. It has had the same effect on Berlin that the Louisiana lottery had upon New Orleans when that in- stitution was in the helght of its prosperity. Every one speculates, The servants who go to market short change their employers and buy marks or stocks. My walter at the hotel told me this morning that he had tripled his money on the stock of one of the German electrical com- panies, and he is disappointed that he has not been able to buy some _ Hamburg-American shares, which have almost doubled in value within the past twenty-four hours. Much speculation is done in the mark itself, the changes being so rapid that one can make or lose a great deal within a short time. Yesterday I went to the bank to cash a.draft for $100, but got there too late. I drew this amount today, and find that I have made 120,000 marks by not reaching the bank upon time. I am paying my German girl typist: in dollars. She is to be married this summer and is saving her money for her trousseau, When I hired her } proposed to pay her in marks, but she sald she preferred dollars. Out. account ran for some time and when I gave her $100 in settlement she tucked it away in Her stocking. Since then the mark has steadily fallen, and the other day she asked me 3¢ I ap+ preciated how much she had saved by not taking the marks: “I can figure it out” said T “Yos, 1t {8 easy to figure,” she said “At the time I got that $100 the mark was running at about 1,000 to the dollar, and-that sum would now b€ worth only $5. So you see, Mr. Car penter, Instéad ol $5 1 have $100" (Copyrght, 1925, by Carpenter's World Travelsd