Evening Star Newspaper, March 4, 1923, Page 81

— e e s THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., MARCH 4, 1923—PART 5. L Blouses and Jackets Dominate Costumery These Spring Days BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE, HEE world is a-swirl with new blou: Some of them are jackets, which makes no dif- ference In the effect. Nothing gommonplace as a shirt waist undgr the skirt gets attention from the ‘public. The onal argument as #p whether or not it will come into fashion is lacking this spring. The overblouse fs the thing. Its side coni the jumper jacket, and s rich rival, the ornamental sweater, ge cqual appeal to women. Au skirts are well-nigh neg- zilfle. “Get a pleated skirt of crepe dhine, of homespun or wool crepe nd hang it from a brassiere Lodilee: Tet it serve as the the wardrobe, then riot in ovenarments.” ach the women to women. When they #ip of clothes, skirts enter into pnversation fugitively, But em- o to blouses, ornate, s0 anion, last sitk, ot short is advice &o the ph given -olaful, swaggering Calll them jumper jac eaters, call them.what But_buy them. make the, wear them. Doimg this, are in the center of the Jimelight on fashion’s stage. You are fixed for the spring season and you wardrobe will be serwiceable in summer. No dark por- tent is written across the sky that <uch things will cease before yvou hawe made them pay for themselves. Ite is rather comforting. isn't it. to o secure about clothes? Of are other anxieties for a primitive. ts, call them vou will. own a ere the brow only middle e of twa coneerni tusjgior Wihethe in gront anross t 1 end quiescent part of he did W rest & clothe s a ceupation 1o worry 4 skirt shall have drapery tight it shall questions th, an and how pine are pause. Whether shall take the place whagher decorated silk will t ced for solid crepe terrogatives that punc- s shopping tour decided by advise self- of plain : woms Buy these things must be We can all this kind jumpe They thes individual That's are at- tached to blouses ickets, 3 every orrgate ed sweaters serve activities. 0in in every woman's purse. * % % CI upon a time,” said a woman fashion. “one carried of unrelated f things were k. No one was cer- be best, so ever) This season there | Box-pleated 4 overblouses, all the trunk | color worn under and figured, and thin, make the wardrobe. And this is the truth, Florida and in winter biaze the path for urope the summer. women in accumulat- mass would will hold spical in every sun, plain Goo Matine The: €hol & enou to fill han I of these chosen garments | housand trunks. It's really t a sight of anything else tour. It may be we this uniform for the on a P wih indardiz foundation | to| short | usurp to | d Georgia during the win-| | them. | be printed i JUMPER JACKET OF RED CLOTH, DECORATED WITH BLACK- AND-WHITE RIBBON. NOVELTY LIES IN THE LACE RUFFLES SLEEVES AND THE JABOT IN FRONT. SEVERAL' NEW COATS HAVE SUCH CONSPICUOUS LACE ACCESSORIES. sleeve and boat neck line, and with the helmet hat and the periwinkle blue homespun suit. Once our uniform was a blue serge tailored suit; again it was.a white shirt waist with frill down front and a wrap-over white linen skirt. We are given to uniforms, Americans. Suppose we take up the subject of jackets first, then pass on to blouses. The first thing to say is that they are appallingly alike. The dominant we model is short and straight, reaching | the hips. There's a bias opening across the chest, a rever and a large bow ribbon or material holding the coat together at one hip. It not easy to find anything better than this model. That's the reason for its success. But its uni- versality is alarming to the woman eeing it in shop win- who wearies o dows, There are others with greater nov- elty, not as well known. One, fashioned like a blouse cloth with nths, as we did with the with its short used for decoration. A conspicuous jabot of lace ruffles, arranged in tie of red| black and white ribbon | drops from collarbone to waist, and the straight sleeves, slashed at back, hold fluted ruffles of lace. Another unusual jacket is sleeve- less. It is an Egyptian garment, straight as a pencil, made of bro- caded chiffon and crepe de chine and intended to be worn over a plain blouse. Often a coat goes over it Its oriental ornamentation gives color to pleated white skirt and plain white crepe blouse, Really, it is an alluring piece of costumery. Every woman shouid have it her wardrobe to wear on days when she feels color is necessary to her mood, vivid color that suggests that life is quite cheer- ful and quite worth while. in ARIS launchied a short bolero jacket in January and put it in the February collections shown to American buyers. It is a square, loose garment with none of the trig- ness which it had other year Possibly it flares at the hem. pos sibly it does not. Tts slceves are square, slashed at back to show voluminous lace pleating. By the way, pay attention to lace in SLEEVELESS JACKET OF BROCADED CHIFFON AND CREPE DE CHINE, WORN OVER BLOUSE, IN THE FASHION OF A WAISTCOAT. ULARITY. are not sufficiently of their importance as yet. They were revived suddenly. They may become too common to give pleasure, so it is wiser to wear them now. They are put in wool, also sllk and crepe de chine Jjackets. They are repeated at the collar. Pos- sibly there's a jabot of lace on the blouse that goes under the bolero. for jabots are highly fashionable The extremists among French de- ruffles. We aware signers launched blouses and jackets | in February with lace at neck, which is a startling innovation. 1t means that the harsh line of plain cloth against the skin i® to be discon- tinued Here's a trifle to remember about lace ruffies in sleeves. They must extend well up under the sleeve where there i a slashed opening at THIS GARMENT HAS ACHIEVED UNUSUAL POP- | back through which they emerge. | The edges of coat sleeevs are orna- | mented with braid or embroidery None of these bolero jackets is| without ostentation. If fhey do not carry color on the surface they carry ribbon, embroidery. brald or some | sort of border to relieve the cloth | from dullness. The jacket with a vivid figuration is much in demand. Tt is often a square Chinese coat, full of character | and pleasing to the individualist. Tts shape was suggested by the orlental | patterns printed on fabrics. Its| sleev and revers are of yellow crepe de chine. of jade green, of| delft blue. The Dutch china of delft, you know, came from China | on those same sailing ships that| brought coffee from Java. A woman was sitting In a sun-lit BLOUSE OF WHITE CREPE DE CHINE, WITH SHORT SLEEVES. HEMSTITCHED EDGES AND GREEN MONOGRAM INCLOSED IN CIRCLES. MATCHES THE PARASOL ACHIEVING THE PREVAILL living room on a cold day, sewing a cotton gown. Its ornamentation was fascinating. a printed design in brick-dust red, gyptian blue, glimpses of yellow. “Making an overblouse? tioned a visitor. “No. Makinx a gown out tablecloth,” was the answer The answer startled every one in ques- of ‘a THE SKIRT 1S PLEATED, THE WHITE STRAW HAT /IVID DECORATION. THE WHOLE > COSTUME OF PALM BEACH. shop on §th avenue I found ador- able cotton tablecloths. Price, $7. I bought one and confided to the salesman that 1 intended to make a frock of it He weari said: ‘Every one does.’” 1 shrank to the | size of a seed. He showed me a |sketch. framed by the store, to show | how this cotton tablecloth looked as a frock. So here T am at work on HE printed silk blouse—lo coma back| to blouses—is the admirea garment of the hour. No popularity dims its prestige. Its price ranges from the minimum to the maximumi™ A woman can buy a bit of printed silk or two bandanna handkerchiefs and make the blouse at homs in an afternoon’s work. Or she can pay an exclusive shop $110 for it. The' ease of making such blouses, the facility with which one finds odds and ends of material fit for the pure pose, stimulates home work. Few women -hglieve themselves incapable of achieving a fashlonable blouse _ with their own scissors, thread and needle. Figured blouses are not all closely related. Not all of them carry - Tndian and Persian patterns, Thes newer movement is toward Japanese batik. This fabric has bright and changeable colors on its surface, but they resemble clouds, not figures or landscapes. There is no sharp outline. Sheik turbans, which have been widely worn for two months, use batik chiffon or silk for their volu- minous scarfs rather than orlental patterning. A new blouse of batik has a square neck opening, deeply banded with blue georgette crepe: one band continues down side of blouse from shoulder to hip to finish in a square buckle of blue galalith, This is a variant on the muffler idea. If it is desirable to avoid a blouse of printed silk, a designer offers a new scheme which has found favor in woman's sight. Brick-dust creps de chine serves as a foundation for two immense wheels cut from printed { sillkc and applied at edges with a thick embroidery stitch, Another blouse of tlis kind has a broad band of batik down middle of back, achieving the spinal decoration which came into fashion in December. Several of these gay bands end be- {low the blouso in a thick tassel of {Bilk threads or loops of flat braid. The latter is preferred because it-does not snarl and break, * % x ¥ OUNGSTERS have gotten away trom figured silk through the use of checked and striped organdie. Such blouses, worn for tennis and golf, also serve under short Chinese tunics for beach and club clothes. The woman who has no happy fling at a beach or a club can utilize them un der the new spring coat suit. Checked gingham, especially In pink and white, comes into the sunshine of fashion at the same time. It is used for collars and cuffs on dark frocks and blouses; is used for entire blouses banded with solid pink gingham sometimes finished with blue braid The woman who sells you a hat of- fers a parasol with it. This is the new fantasy of fashion. Japanese paper sunshades were launched on beaches a year ago. Women coming home from Japan brought the serv- iceable parasols of that country, the kind never seen over here. France | was inspired by these parasols to pro- {duce a delightful assortment of fat little umbrellas, stubby and sturdy Winter made us familiar with these. | Now we follow the idea in paper, cot- {ton and printed silk parasols. Often | the hat, the parasol and the handbag match. Sometimes a girdle is throwr the room. The story had to be told. |an idea that I thought was mine, but | in for good luck. “On the upper floor of a. certain fsn't. But it is a good idea’" i (Copyright, ) Golden Eggs of Present-Day Denmark Make Reality of Fairy Tale BY FRANK G. CARPENTER. H HILLEROD, Denmark N the little old town of Hillerod, in the heart of the Island of Sec- land, 1e shadow of the mighty of Frederiksborg, eredted by a King of Denmark when tha pilgrims were climbing out of ‘he Mayflower onto Plymouth rock, @ the people of Denmark were ctically slaves, I write of an egs. a blg egg, a fresh egg, and, an egg of pure gold. It is , the golden egg thrown ntq fiction by that Danish creator of faigies. Ha Christian Andersen. That egg was laid by a goose. This s gaid by hen. I do not know whéthe he is a black Langshan, a Minpre: Leghorn or a white Wy- andptte, but she is one of the 18,000.- 000 *hens, each of which keeps drop- ping into the pockets of the Danes from eggs every vear. T hawe al de: ibed how these farmers, by co-operation. have elimi- natpd the middleman in their buying. In ghis letter 1 would write some- thfme of their thousands of co- opemative associations which elimi- nate the middleman their selling, vipg them the highest cash prices | v all they produce Wo shall first visit the helpful hen her hoine. She laid last year fori under castle eve n in |tater export more than 600,000,000 eggs in additfon to those consumed here in Denmark, and she has increased her annual product more than one-third since 1914. There are now something like 60,000 chicken farmers belonging to the Egg Export Assoclation, who raise their chickens according to rule and ship the product in common. They are combined into more than 500 local societies, to which they must deliver every egg laild except those used on their tables, and to which each pays a fine of $1.38 every time he slips in a bad one. The con- stitution of each society provides that. the members collect the eggs daily from the nests and deliver them weekly, and that no egg delivered shall be more than seven days old. Each society is numbered and the number must be stamped on each egg. so that every bad egg can be traced back to the farm and almost to the nest in which it was laid. The result is that the egge rold are uniformly !good and command the highest price on the market. o LONG about two generatious ago one could buy two eggs for 1 cent | the vear through. A little teamers began to run direct from Copenhagen to England and these cheap Danish eggs found favor here all "'FAlli HAIR AND BLUE EYES PREDOMINATE AMONG THE MAID- 1 ENS OF DENMARK, WHO ARE PREPARING THEMSELVES TO I = MANAGE THE HOMES OF LIKELY YOUNG FARMERS.” e there. Shortly after our civil war 1,000,000 eggs were exported and they brought $8,000. Within twenty vears the number had multiplied 100 times, and last vear the exports included more than .000,000 eggs, which netted 7 S cents apiece. Today Danish eggs are used all over Eng- or tries as well. During my automobile travels over Denmark 1 have visited the chicken tarms. Their owners combine this business with the raising of grain and root crops which are always fed to the cattle and pigs. The chickens are kept in vards surrounded by high fences of wire closely woven. Each pen is about fifty feet square. It is carpeted with grass, and in its center is a little red henhouse made of boards, about six feet in height, six feet wide and eight feet long. This contains roosts and nests. It has a number upon it, and by this number the chickens within are recorded in the stock books of the farm. Each pen contains a rooster and perhaps one dozen hens, and every hen has a little metal anklet about her right leg upon which is stamped her num- ber, 80 that the farmer can tell ex- actly to what extent she is earning her living. The chickens are fed on grain and chopped feed. They have also cooked potatoes and tankage, and just the right proportion of crushed bone to supply the lime for egg shells. The business is carefully studied and ithe best breeds are chosen. One of the farmers 1 visited tells me his best layers are the white Leghorns, although he keeps also Plymouth Rocks, white Wyindottes, black Langshans and Minorcas. Here at Hillerod I have visited the packing establishment of one of the egg-export societies. It is a long, low, one-story building filled with cases of eggs, each egg in its little pasteboard compartment like .those used for shipping eggs in the United States. These cases come in from the farms. As soon as they arrive the eggs are taken out by young women and l1aid on a network of woven wire fitted into the top of a barrel over two incandescent light globes of one hun- dred candlepower. The room is dark except for these globes, and the pow- erful light shines through the eggs, showing the least age or defect. Every egg which has not a trans- lucent red color is taken out, and those which are not perfect are set aside by themselves. If they are bad they are destroyed, and the farmer is fined. Some of the imperfect eggs are used for pickling, which means that they are packed away In vats of lime water, Which serves the same Punpose a8 ~cold storage enadling land and millions go to other coun- | AR, them to be sold as pickled eggs dur- ing the winter. After candling. the good eggs are sorted according to size and packed in excelsior. First comes a layer of excelsior and then a layer of eggs, followed by another of excelsior an another of eggs, until they fill the box, which is about two feet wide, one foot high and perhaps five feet in length. ‘The eggs are sold by the Pound or by the score, and not by the dozen, as with us. They are some- times packed in small cases of sixteen pounds each. They are then ready for shipment to England. The manager of the society tells me he can easlly decide the approxi- mate age of an egg by its appearance over the electric light. He showed me how, in a perfectly fresh egg, the volk lies in the center, and how each egg contains a little pocket of air which he says is placed there by the Lord to give breath to the baby chick- en before it expands its lungs In the open. After the egg attains an age of a week or s0 the yolk is apt to leave the center and drop down to the side of the shell, and thers gre other indications which show the number of days since the egg left the hen. x ok * K T was just after twelve today when Valdamar Hansen shut off the gus and put on the brakes of our auto- mobile in front of one of the Danish co-operative creamerfes. The em- ployes, several men and a half dozen women, were seated on the grass outside eating their lunch. We pho- tographed them and then went with the manager inside to look at the separators in whichk the creem is taken out of the milk and at the great churns, each of which makes 400 pounds of butter in about twenty- five minutes. The cream is chemi- cally soured, and churned the same day it is received. The manager tells me he handles the milk of 330 farm- ers and that the amount he received this morning was just 30,627 pounds. The milk is paid for according to the butter fat it contains, and most of the farmers test their own milk and some even keep a record of the per- centage of butter fat in the milk of each cow. After separating, the skim milk is taken home to be fed to the hogs, which lster on are sold to the co-operative bacon socleties for ex- port to England. Leaving ¢the churning room, we went into another oconcrete-floored steam- ing compartment in which cream, after sterilisation, i® put up in half-pint and pint bottles for export. By this time the women had come back to ‘work and we could see how the pack- o People of That Country Beat High Cost of Living # Farms Where Every Hen Has a Bracelet and Every Bad Egg Costs the Seller More Than a Dol- £ lar—Sales Made by the Score or Pound—Milk Paid for According to the Butter Fat It Contains. Cattle Wear Overcoats When It Rains or the Weather Is Cold—People of Various Ages Attend by Wiping Out B ko a a a hhd ing was done. Everything was ex-| quisitely clean. The concrete floors are flooded and scrubbed every morn- ing. The manager and the employes wear wooden-soled shoes. There are more than 1,200 co-oper- ative dairy associations in Denmark and the farmers belonging to them number about 200,000. They produced last vear more than 200,000,000 pounds of butter and this was sold through the co-operative assoclations, 50 that it gave the farmer the high- est price on the market. It brought in over $2.000,000 a week, or more than $100,000,000 a year. The price of the butter was above 50 cents & pound. About $60,000,000 worth went to Great Britain, which is the chief customer for Danish bacon and but- ter and eggs. Nevertheless, it is only a few decades since Danish butter had the nickname “Forty-Roy.” This came from the fact that it was so bad that the smell could be detected a city block away from where it was kept. The butter was not then known as Danish butter. 1t was sold to Ger- 'man middlemen of Kiel and Hamburg, who exported it under the name of “Kiel butter’ to England, where it brought about 12 cents & pound. To- | day there is no other land that ex- ports butter so uniformly good as | Denmark, and none has cows that produce so much all the year round. The Danes pride themselves on the high average production of all of their cows rather than on that of any individual animal. Everything is measured by butter-fat, and the aver- age yleld of all these cows entered on the official records is now about 440 pounds per cow for every twelve months. The average percentage of butter-fat exceeds 4 per cent. Nevertheless, Denmrak has some good record cows. I have before me the reports of two which competed for a silver cup prize some years ago. One, named Siike, yielded two pounds of butter & day for every one of the 365 dayw of her third year, with thirty-three pounds to spare. * ok k¥ HE cattle of Denmark wear over- coats when it rains or the weather is cold, if thiey are out In the flelds. I have described how they are kept in stables day and night for seven months every year and feed out-of-doors during the day for the five months of the summer. In their grasing they are not allowed to run wild. Each cow has her halter, to which is fastened a chain eight feet in length tied to a stake In the ground, so that she can feed only to the length of her chain. After she has cropped her circle as clean as though out by & lawn-mower she the Middleman—Chicken A moose loudly and 1 am told that the farmer knows from this signal that it is time to change her location. At any rate, he then comes out with a maul like that with which one drives steel wedges in splitting logs. He pulls up the stake and leads the cow to a fresh feeding ground. where he pounds the pin down into the ground again. 1 took photographs today of ten cows and; one bull feeding that way In an unfenced meadow. Each animal had a blankét of canvas cov- ering all of its body but its head, neck and tail and legs below the knees. The cows mooed as we pho- tographed them, thinking perhaps that we might be about to give them new circles of pasture. The chlef breeds of cattle here are the Red Danish and a breed of black and white especially adapted to Jut- land. The first is the better. There are also a few Jerseys and some milk- ing Shorthorns. best Danish cows this afternoon dur- ing a Visit to the Kolle-Kolle farmi within ten miles or 2o of Copenhagen. Thero were perhaps one hundred in the stable and each weighed, I judge, under 1,200 pounds. I saw there also some high pedigreed Danish bulls. None of them was half as heavy as the ten-thousand-dollar Shorthorn bulls on the Carpenter-Ross farm near Mane- field, Ohio. Co-operation, such as is found here in Denmark, requires a high degree of education. The Danes are better schooled than any other people in Eu- rope. Indeed, there are only two in a thousand of them who cannot read and write. This 1s a better showing than in England, Germany, France or Switzerland, and much better than in the United States, where we have sev- enty-seven in every thousand who are flliterate. % The Danieh farmer is a good farmer because he has studied the branches that affect the expert production of the things he sells. In the words of Pope, he “holds the eel of science by the tail,” and makes it work for him. The country has schools of every kind. All children are compelled to g0 to school until they are fourteen years of age, and their teachers are better paid and more respected than with us. The average farm boy has a course In an agricultural college after he leaves the common schools, and there are also people’s high schools for the grown-ups. The people’s high schools are a spe- clal institution of Denmark. They are attended by the men in the winter when the farm work is light, and during the summer by women and girls. The winter_term is from No- 1 saw some of the |} vember 1o May. Most of the puplls live in or near the schoois, and they may have rooms and board in the es- tablishment at very low rates. About three-fourths of the students belong to the middle class farmers and small holders of land. Four-fifths of the stu- dents are from nineteen to twenty- five vears of age, but there is no age limit. A farmer can start in at any time and take a special coure in al- most any branch he chooses. There are more than a hundred of these high schools in Denmark, and in addition there are nineteen agricultural schools and schools of domestic science. * %X ¥ ¥ HERE are also schools for wives or of household economics. These are attended largely by girls prepara- tory to or in anticipation of marriage. They teach everything connected with housekeeping and the purchase of domestic supplies. They are, in fact, somewhat like the domestic science schools and colleges of the United States. They are large and small and public and private. [ have visited several during this motor car ride. One, situated on the Island of Seeland about twenty miles from Copenhagen, is surrounded by, a beautiful garden. It consists of a large two-story house. “THE KING OF DENMARK STIL divided up into living rooms, class- | rooms and a large number of bed rooms. It has a commodious and welil lighted kitchen in which at the time of my call thirty young Danish giris eighteen to twenty-one vears of age were engaged in the preparation of . dishes of one kind or another. Some of them had their sleeved rolled up above their elbows, and the faces of others were rosy from hanging over the stoves. Three were cleaning fish, a half dozen were peeling potatoes and others'with meticulous care were compounding the ingredients of sweet- meats and cakes. One of the teachers took me through the house and showed me the rooms of the girls. Every one was exquisite- 1y kept, and all were beautifully fur- nished without the nick-nacks and bric-a-brac affected by the American college girl. Indeed, it seemed to me that a man must be very particular it he could not be satisfied with such - housekeeping., and. when T think again of how the girls looked, with such sweet, good, housekeeping wives Upon leaving my Young secretary took a photograph of the Kkitchen class on the front doorsteps, and he would not be contented until the teacher allowed him to pose one maiden, especially attractive. witk her, bread bowl in her hands, mixing up dough. | (Carpenter's World Travels. Copsrighted, 10 by Frank G. Carpenter. T. LIVES IN A PALACE WITH A AUDILY UNIFORMED GUARD AT HIS SENTRY BOX OUTSIDE.” A