Evening Star Newspaper, December 17, 1922, Page 83

artifictal was man. The purists scem to believe that modesty and persdnal privacy are inherent qualities of human nature; that their absence reduces on to the | [lowest human level. But history | does not teach any such doctrine. { Modesty has come about through ap- | plied sclence. In countrles where | the adoption of man's inventichs for | comfort are unknown, the thing we | call modesty does not exist. One might say that the advent of coal changed the characteristics of” hu- mans. Present civilization is based ,on artificial warmth. B * % %k Xk S the dressmakers have gone back -about five hundred cen- turies, we must study what these medieval women wore. They have reached out a finger from the past and taken us by the hand. There is a tremendous impulse toward the ! warmth invented by (25 P W) /4 (i " 1 repetition of medieval costumery throughout the - fashionable world. | In beating the air for something that would stimulate the public into a new appreciation of clothes, de- signers turned toward the stretch of centuries which immaliately pre- ceded and included the renalssance. Therefore the mass movement of costumery is noy away from pre-war severity toward medieval ornamenta- tion, extra ance, color, warmth. Those other ladies could not wear chiffon in winter, nor did they wear thin crepe kimonos. Influenced by costumery of these centuries, the de- signers offer us warm materials, long sleeves, high collars, fur-trimmed ! garments. en high Roman boots with fur are peeping over the horizon. Today we do not restrict velvet, fur, duvetyn to gala occasions or cold aft- ernoons in fashionable streets. The medieval movement is too strong to be limited to festal finery. It strikes deep into the wardrobe and persaades us to be fashionable and comfortable In room robes of velvet heaped with ! fur, lined with flannel, and decorated with the various minor peltries that | furrlers have launched in lieu of | precious hides. Entire robes of fur! have been taken up by French wom- | en. Sometimes they use coats that, have been taken up by French wom- admirable trick in economy. The coat that cannot be seen in public' can be worn in private, if lined with | a gay fabric, then belted or sashed in | brilliant manner. | Short fur coats have been turned | into Victorian combing sacques., These are a revival of ‘importance. Beige caracul, pony skin, squirrel a moleskin that have seen betier days and must be retired are cut into these | square sacques. The lining is Llue, % | vellow or green crepe de chine; the ! ¥ ener is of some old metallic arna- | WT3PPers, even though we shivered. ment. Long fur coats have been '\;"_““‘” ‘l:'e“‘:@ ;‘l:‘(“,‘f‘];’.:"'“"’““ been made into serviceable home|Of Women turn their thoughis to pro tective room robes. ROOM ROBE OF CORAL CREPE DE CHINE, LINED WITH SILVER GRAY VELVET AND DECORATED WITH CORAL MARABOU AR- RANGED IN A LARGE SURPLICE COLLAR; ALSO WIDE BANDS BE- LOW THE ELBOW. | OUS MA above. voluminous curtains were drawn over and around Dusty, moldy, warm jackets with a colorful lining and a | .s companioned , each | the bed to give sufficient warmth for | cash of equal gavety. "“""""l:":_';l‘.h“”n:“e”'x “d':l "':‘ Lo ‘limate determines ' Sleep. The woman who has not such gar-{ ¢t & A0S coa N P & >"" | houses at the appalling temperature costa When houses No, personal modesty was not a ments of past grandeur at her dis-{ .o Buropeans have learncd to ept by smolderifig part of medievalism. Several peo- | posal is keeping up with the medieval | h £ o | read in American building=. all of a cast ple sleeping in one bed, a half-dozen | movement by making room robes of o ek g stone ho not only wore | sleeping on the floor in the same |velvet, brocade and duvetyn. She is . eral laye ¢ thick fabrics, but ' room, was the custom more honored | glad that fashion at last permits her W the supposedly healthy race, bt in their cloth often as not. | in the obesrvance than the breach. to combat cold weather wita kimonos are the only civilized peoples to Bedrooms were unheated. Tallow | It continued through the civilization | that keep one comfortable. The ma- live in superheated atmospheres like wdles did contribute warmth. | created by Queen Elizabeth and the jority of us have depended on satin, | the Russians Our public buildings, 1s were piled with feather mat- | French ki The herding instinct | Japanese silk, figured cotton and|shops, theaters, motion picture houses helow and ther quilts'did not vanish from people until|flowered silk for bathrobes and!give us a temperature which is flat, Lisiep,World!‘__ e ELSIE TROBINSON bt ? REYNOLDS hasn't any | d resn't want n't be bothered with ! YOU MAY PICK YOUR OWN RELIGION, OR YOUR POLITICS AND SHOES, AND YOUR TASTE IN BOOKS & PICKLES MAY BE ANYTHING YOU CHOOSE:~ " TBOT HE 1S = MY BUSINESS! “MIND YOUR — OWN BUSINESS! husband, casily, stopped with Hester. ing for a “lit- | Wanted it to whole Dick. her ioesn't although since Always did | tle shaver,” YOU MAY BO0SS YOUR urry on the family name—and go 1g Wwith him sometimes. But art WIFE OR AIREDALE, 3 long and babes are bleating. So AND NO MAN WiLL here are no children in Dick Rey- Halaa Horas iy SAY YOU NAY, 1da Claire has no children | OR INDULGE IN doesnt want any. But Zelis FREAKISH PLEASURES, < a figure Instead, and a complex- o keep up. but such a comfort at NIGHT INTO DAY: tea dansants. Mary Smith and Rita Higgins have no children, but they do want them.| BUT IN ONE GREAT Mary is ill. and ¢ afford them” on the precarious salary of a | OCCUPATION crippled bookkeeper. MANY CENSORS YOU So there you are. And how about ! wiLL TFIND, 1t Does it concern you? It most & certainly docs, for on the decisions of | I8N THE JOB OF RAISING BABIES YOU MUST ANSWER To MANKIND ! the Hesters and the Zeldag, the Marys | and the Ritas of the country hang | the ture of the world. So herc'!f where we argue ** e question: | Is childbearing a purely personal matter? 1 Is it a family affair or a national{ s vitally and finevitably the concern, eugenic laws protect its birth. In child. It is unfortunate that the na- Sancauas ’ | of the natlon, and more and more is | Some states the mother's pensién has | tion has not as yet awakened to the Is it “nobody's business but her|ine nation insisting that we shall |already come; not the wholesale pay- | full measure of its responsibility to- "“"‘; whether a wife becomes 2|yjew it from this wider angle. ment and support which will come|ward her. But that in no way ab- mgeHeRigs waos v ome day, but at least a partial pay- solves her from her duty toward the For those mothers to whom nature g‘f;,,:::::: :"fi,,?&z;‘;:’;t;h:,fizz ment. The illegitimate child and his | nation. has deniod the Joy of thelr own chil- S, | moth, ow being protected. | And childbearing is a woman's duty »~ | tioning under onme specific flag. I| er are n For to the nation, provided she can do it i i 1 dren there can be oniy pity. I ieenilo lcaar s iend §6 wialisos F mean the great commonwealth of | ejcourts ang Juyentio 20 those, too, who “cannot afford ba- L - . | cieties guard and direct the delin-in health and economic safety. The o £ " | men organized to forward the' proc- bies” there is also pity, but pity| o= 0" o ton, regardiess of | duent or abused child. ‘We have leg- | woman who won't do it is a slacker. coupled with a righteous rage against| . 4 p.v or platform. To that | iSlation against child labor and child | She has failed her country. but she a soclety which makes such a condi-| o o' combly, to, that great dream, ' Marriage—free playgrounds, compul- | has falled herself worst of all. tion pososible. But for the mother ¥ ' sory education—a thousand safe- She herself pays the most terrible Who “eamt be bothered”—who pre. |18 the mother responsible. And it, in lits tufn, is responsible to her. fers a complexion or a career—what { : 2 | “That sounds very fine,” snorts Mrs. do you think of her today? e tndapen ety o bt / {monwealths of men won't pay for F there is anything in.the world |little Jimmie's shoes and your vast that is of surpassing importance |dreams won't send Peggy through to the past, present and fututre life of | college.” 1 mankind, that thing is the child. Iff No, they don’t. More shame to there is any human function which |them. Nevertheless, through national ministers to the needs of all humani- | legislation all humanity is beginning guards where none existed before. price in the end. For a few years We are on our way. May we not)of comfort she relinquishes an infl-| loiter when the children call in need! |nite dream. None of us can tell R whether our soul's life shall extend beyond the grave, but of all human N the meantime, are women to re- | peings the mother has least need to fuse to do. their part simply be-|worry over that question. For she cause conditions are not perfect for |has tasted immortality while still in their protection? I think not! The|the flesh. . She has laid her hand on woman who cannot give her child. a the generations to come—she has { healthy body or adequate support is, | placed her mark on the things that ty and upon which all human plans |to serve its servants. Organized so-|at present, entirely justified in not{men shall do in all the years that arc and hopes are based, it is the func-|ciety does now take a hand in the | having that child. But the wife Who | to be. In comparison to this, what is tlon of childbearing. And because | rearing and guarding of the child|can, by some measure or sacrifice, |a “girlish figure” or an unwrinklpd of that childbearing is not and can- |which it did not dream of doing some | perhaps manage to support it, is not | skin? # B &at be a purely personal concers. ; It two generations ago. In uyme, stajes | justified if she refudes to Have that 1922y o o % THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., ‘WITH THIN PINK FLANNEL AND B. One or two coal | {us with in her American days. Artificial Warmth in Home Ceases to Be Important, as Use of Materials of Sub- stantial Character Is Revived—Present Movement Too Strong to Be Limited to Festal Finery, But Strikes Deep Into Wardrobe—Entire Robes of Furs Taken Up by French Wom’en. Who Sometifl)es Use Coats That Ha've Seen Better Days—Short Fur Garments Turned Into Victorian Combing Sacques. . . | AT LEFT: ROOM ROBE OF YELLOW BROADCLOTH, LINED WITH FRENCH ARMY BLUE VELVET, GENER. ' TRIMMED WITH VELVET EMBROIDERY IN YELLOW FLOWERS, ACCORDING TO THE VIONNET ER. AT RIGHT: KIMONO OF BROCADE, IN SOFT YELLOW, GRAY AND BLUE, WHICH IS LINED | DED WITH GRAY FUR. stale, hot. We speak contemptuously he manner in which Russians live, t we do the same with less cause. Mrs. Patrick Campbell should have put in her memoirs the delightfully extravagant stories she entertained She once said she wondered why a »itcher of ice water was put on a glass tray by the bed at night, then she realized that the ice was for her brow, the tray to place beneathi her head; these i kept her from suffocating. | modern | clothes. | i | In warm clothes lies health, for the woman in a warm robe is apt to turn off the radiator and lift the windows. By 50 doing she may borrow medicvai strength. Doctors and hygienists should join with costumers in promot- ing the new fashion. There is such a drastic change in houseapparel this winter that it has revived such old fabrics as flanncl and such antique furs as marabou. Time was, in Victorian days, when each woman possessed short sacques of quilted satin, lined with flannel and ornamented with marabou. For dec- ades we have classed these garments ! with blue Bristol glass, wooden birds in gilt cages, fire screens of tapestry. We relegated them to the shadows S0 completely that the younger gen- | eration now regards sacques of Chi- nese brocade, lined with duvetyn and decorated with marabou, as a new, invention, therefore exces- sively desirable. Furriers in Paris put out combing sacques at a time when houses were partly heated, when women needed the warmth of medieval sleeping They made thema of silk, of crepe de chine, of brocade; they lined them with white rabbit. worn inside out or outside in. In one of the beauty parlors in the Rue St. Honore, in Paris, these fetch- | | ing garments, built of brocade, were | spread over the chairs to catch the eyes and the dollars of American women. man looked them over, appraised them 4vell, and imitated them with scraps of material when she came home. & They really made an admirable bridal gift. Remember them when your mind is perplexed at the receipt of a new invitation. If one cannot easily get the white fur, substitute for if crepe de chine or duvetyn. The outside can be made of brocade or the new flowered oriental silks. The edges hold bands of fur or colored marabou. The latfer is dyed to give brilliancy to the garment and is more fashionable than fur. A trousseau house coat is of green brocade edged with green marabou and lined with French army blue crepe de chine. reaches to the knees and has wide Menu for a Day. BREAKFAST. Compote of Prunes Oatmeal with Cream Scrambled Eggs with Sausage Buckwheat Cakes Coffee LUNCHEON. Ham Croquettes with Green Peas Hot Biscults Boiled Potatoes Spiced Cookles Tea DINNER. DECEMBER 17, 1922—PART 4. They were | The shrewd American wo-, It « ) | three-quarter sleeves, the kind the 1 orientals tuck their hands in. HOUSE GOWN FOR YOUNG BRIDE'S TROUSSEAU. MADE OF MAUVE Such house coats are new. They CREPE DE CHINE, LINED WITH THIN MAUVE FLANNEL. THE SASH GOES THROUGH SLASHES IN THE MATERIAL, THE FLORAL DECORATION IS OF VIOLET RIBBON. are rich sisters of the short Victorian sacques. Chinese coats will serve | very well, Persian and Indian tunics | are extremely desirable, but, barring | of the best grocade negliges is lined | outdoor garments. One can dispense | orlentalism, one can fashion such &|ywith old blue flannel and decorated|ith the heaviness of & coat and wra coat of curtain material and decorate | with gray fur. A yellow broadcloth|a broad Angora wool scarf aroun £ AR G, S0 92 OLL kimono is lined and decorated with the neck, which is matched by a ) faded blue velvet. The designer helmet hat. Scarfs and hats are both HE kind of neglige that can be |copied a trick of Madeleine Vionnet: touched with the Russian influence in | 1 worn to the breakfast table and|in applying vellow cloth flowers to their embroidery of appliqued cloth {later to the dinner table, at a pinch, the velvet surface. flowers. {is sumptuous in its medievalism. It is' The costly kimonos are lined with Perugia of Paris has modified an |warm enough.to save the price of | fur and fashioned of crepe de chine'ancient slipper to go Wwith these me-~ coal. Velvet, broadcloth, duvetyn and | or thin hrocade. Paris had a mania dieval house robes. It is only for | crepe de chine lined with flannel are |jast September for lining all gar-|the woman who likes to be capricious, the fabrics chosen. Ruby velvet makes | ments, except frocks, with fur. but it has a strong allure. Its sole [an enticing Kimono, especially When | Chanel offered fur-lined sweaters for ix an inch thick. brightly lacquereds ! 'there are colored heels of wood, one at each end. It is strapped to the foot in the ancient manner. Other slippers bought for these robes are purely Indlan. They made their appearance in New York in a | cuperbly costumed play, “The Yan- | ke Princess The vamp of these | slippers is of old suede, the heels are lacquered, and around the instep d ankle are straps of blue and sil- {Ver. By the way, the Indian tunics in this play, also the skirt of an In- atan princess, indicate the course of new garments Parls is sending to America today. The difference is that the Indian skirt drops over net trousers, whereas the French skirt | has a panel of materlal in front | (Copyright, 1922.) Sherbets. Sherbets are an excelient addition {to the more-than-usually elaborate Ldinner, for they add much In festivity ! without adding much either in bulk or in cost. Here are recipes for some sherbets that are dellcious: Mint sherbet is good with lamb in any form. Pour two cups of boiling {water over a bunch of bruised, fresh {mint leaves. Cover and let it stand ififteen minutes on the back of the stove to infuse, then add one cup of |sugar. When the sugar is dissolved. strain, cool, add two-thirds of a cup lof grape juice and a quarter of a lcup of lemon juice. Freeze to & mush-like consistency. Serve in glasses, ornamenting the top of each glass with a crystalized cherry and 1 sprig of mint. P apple sherbet is a good addi- ! tion 1y meal. To make it, peel jand chop a large pineapplg. or else {peel and grate it. Cover with two {cups of sugar, and let stand until a {sirup has formed. Add half & pack- :: ge of soaked and dissolved gelatin | | i | | and a cup or more of cold water. The {juice of half a lemon may be added it desired. Freeze. Orange sherbet, likewise, is always good. _Boil together for half an hour two and one-half cups of water and one and one-half cups of sugar. Cool, add the juice of five oranges and one lemon, and freeze. For maraschino sfierbet, use a cup of the liquid from & boti mares- chino cherries, the juice of one lemon. ithree and a half cups of water, the juice of an orange and two cups of sugar. Mix well, =train and freeze. 'A RETURN OF THE VICTORIAN COMBING SACQUE IS AN INTERESTING DEVELOPMENT OF THE SEASON. THIS ONE IS OF CHINESE BRO- CADE LINED WITH WHITE RABBIT, THE CUFFS AND COLLAR ALSO OF RABBIT. IT CAN BE WORN ON EITHER SIDE. | outdoor wear and fur-lined coats to dead leaf brown. Chinese green lslgo over one-piece frocks of erepe de the rival of ruby. Brown in several|chine. Cecile Sorel lined hes ocean- shades is good and 1t does not go to | going traveling coat of beige kasha the rleaners often. | with leopard skin, running a panel of The inside of these kimonos must|it on the outside. be as gay as the purse permits. These fur-lined garments have been Sometimes they are lined With the bulky. Women did not cart for them, new ‘oriental silk. Again crepe de|except for motoring, but the French chine serves, and common garden|have blazed the path to supple, fur- flannel is not despised by even a cost- |lined garments which contrive to iy @ressmaker. hang In sinuous folds on.the figure. Brocade ranks ameng: the high-|The fur-lined sweaters, really’ over- priced fabrics for house robes.' One blouses, are the most comfortable of lined with topaz crepe de chine or a A Chiness woman who has arrived at Saigon, in French Indo-China. claims to be the oldest person in the world. At the age of 131 she trav- eled from Haliphong, the chief sea-: port of Tongking, to Saigon,’ which place she had expressed & wish to visit before dying.