Evening Star Newspaper, November 19, 1922, Page 75

THE SUNDAY ‘STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, NOVEMBER 19, 1922—PART 4.°. g Revival of Ancient Venetian Clothes Stimulates Designers HERE ARE THE NEW BABANI PAJAMAS WORN BY FASHIONABLE WOMEN INSTEAD OF NEGLIGE. THEY ARE SUGGESTIVE OF PER- SIAN GARMENTS. THE TROUSERS ARE OF CORAL SATIN AND THE DEEP TUNIC COAT IS OF ‘WITH STRIPS OF CORAL. - BLACK CORAL AND GREEN, BOUND BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. VER in Paris therg are two been doing a rushing busi- ness with Americans. One is After American tourists had gon about to the well known dressmaking fabrics, they cheerfully spent their money at one or the other,of these “ra Bouche,” where one could hear the most tuneful melodies in Paris one could spot these Italian gowns throughout the audience. Americans The reason the American Women waxed enthusiastic about such clothes Itallan houses,which have Babani. The other is Fortuny. nouses that launch new ideas and Venetian shops. At such plays as and gaze at smartly dressed women, wore the majorigy of them. was the esses with which they could slip into them without the exhaustion | per, “Babani’s.” And the two women |, . '\ vong will expect her to stay ot fittings, the loss of time through appointments. The garments were on the shelves, they were adjusted 10 the figure, and usually followed the buyer to the hotel within the hour. 1ife is very simple when one can buy colorful and stimulating clothes at a minimum expenditure of time. o | The rtatian nouses offered still an- | other bait. They undersold the well known dressmaking houses. This was due to a natural industrial con- dition; the garments were made in bulk In Italy in difterent sizes and, because of their apparent shapeless- I ness, they could be easily adjusted | to any normal figure. | Over here Americans acknowledge these gowns on each other wherever social life is whirling. The trick of recognition has gone so far that it promotes a kind of good fellowship. One woman passes another in the | theater, looks at her ruby colored | crushed velvet gown embroidered In !a pattern of silver renalssance lace | with sleeves that come to the hand, |and a neckiine that reaches to the | collar bone, and says in & haif whis- smile at each other. A man thought this wi game, something like “Beaver.” 2. pew He looked about for beards. “Did you say ‘Beaver,’ " he asked of “Where s |a woman in the theater. | e “He?. What?’ was her puzzled an- Edgur Allen Poe and Sarah Helen ‘Whitman. No matter of what nationality you are—no matter what prejudices vou may possess, Poe must be to you one of the few great geniuses.of litera- tare. Despite his genius, Poe, as a man, was a sorry spectacle. Excesses wrecked ‘his body and mind and zroubles put on the finishing touches. At the age of forty, when he really should have.been at the pinnacle of nis powers, he dled under the most distressing circumstance. He was found in Baltimore, his mind dulled into insensibility, and died in a hos- pital a few days later. Poe's wife Virginis, a sweet girl and the one controlling power over his wayward spirit, died in poverty at a cottage in the Bronx, New York,. which is still preserved. But soon afterward Poe became engaged to 8 lady of Providence, Rhode Island, named ‘Sarah Helen Whitman. To her Poe wrote letters burning with passion, but his flance broke the en- gagement when she saw the extent of her ‘lover's excesses. Here is one of Poe's letters to Helen: “I have pressed your letter agaln and again to my lips, sweetest Helen _bathing it in tears of joy, or of a ‘divine despair’. But I—who so.late- 1y in vour presence vaunted the ‘pow- er of words™—af what avail are mere words to me now? Could I believe in the efficiency of prayers to the God of Heaven, I would indeed kneel —humbly kneel—at this, the most edrnest epoch of my life—kneel in entreaty for words—but for words that should "disclose to . you—that might enable me to lay bare to you my whole heart, all thoughts. ‘ARt passions. seem' mow merged “in that one consuming desire—the mere wish te make you comprehend—to BY JOSEPH KAYE. Love Letters That Made History make you see that for which there is no human voice—~the unutterable fer- vor of my love for you; for go well do I know your poet nature that I feel sure if you could but look down now into the depths of my soul with your pure spiritual eyes, you could not refuse to speak to me what, alas! vou still resolutely leave unspoken. You would love me, if only for the |greatness of my love. 7 ‘18 it not something’ in this cold, dreary world to be loved? Oh, if Y could but burn into your spirit the deep, the true meaning which I at- tach to those three syllables under- lined! But alas! the effort is all in vain, and ‘Ilive and die unheard’ * * * “Could T but have held you close to my heart'and whisperod to you the strange secrets of {ts passionate hi tory, then indeed you would have seen that it.was not and never could hi been in the power of any other than yourself to move me as I am now. moved—to oppress me with this in- effable emotion—to surround and bathe me in this electrie light, {llum- ining and enkindling my whole na- ture—filling my soul with glory, with wonder and with awe. “During our walk in the cemetry I s3id to you, while the bitter, bitter tears sprang to my eyes, ‘Helen, I love now—now—for the first and only time.’ I said this, I repeat, in no hope that you could believe me, but be- cause I could not h unequal were the heart riches we might offer each ‘other. I, for the first time, giving my all at once snd forever.”” ¢ ¢ © S .Poor Poe. Notice. the agitated phraseology, the rushing, jumbled thoughts in which he expresses his love for Helen. Disintegration of that ‘splendid genius had already be- gun. Less than two years mors and he was to sink to dhe Tast depth. - (Dopyright, 1832.) - swer. “I said ‘Babini,’ or the woman nesr me wears one.” “But, is it & new game for women lke ‘Beaver’” he asked. Then she explained. And He was | atsgusted. “Oh, clothes,” he said, and let the subject drop. | * k %k * | [PECAUSE an American woman could walk into a shop out of the rush and turmoil- of Paris traffic and ipuy a gown she could wear that night, which cost her 1,100 francs, she took' quick advantage of the chance. The fact that it was ruby or gray. yellow or brown velvet, half covered with the open floriated Pat- tern of fourteen century Venice, gave her the right to believe it would ! attract attention. And it did. If she could buy a wrap for 1,200 francs made of crushed velvet, warm | and protective. with a deep Itallan cape about the shoulders, heavily embroidered, she snatched at it. In truth, it was difficult to get Ameri- cans out of these two shops. They found garments that were higher and lower in price than this, but with the franc running above thirteen to a dollar, they felt as though they were getting clothes almost for noth- ing. Women who did not want frocks and wraps bought blouses, kimonos, |even pajamas. Not that eny ome in | tourteenth century Italy wore pa- | jamas, but Venice borrowed a leaf | from the Persian book and prepared | exotic trousers with long tunics of velvet and brocade that would cateh the eye of others than an actress who was playing in one of the half- million bedroom farces that ‘consti- tute America’s chief form of theat- rical amusement. It was not given to every woman to | go over to Paris this vear and be able ¢ to buy these ready-to-wear Ttalian | clothes, but their influence is spread- ing through the talk of tourists Who brought them home. They are being copied and women dnd they are easy to bulld. True, :rushed velvet of Venice is not easy. o buy in this country, and it gives 1 certain antique look to the frock that women like, but the heavy satin | of other Itallan garments and thin | fine velvet are used with good result. | | The Italian rumpled velvet looks ltke a fabric that has been washed and left to dry without ironing. It has its practical side, for 1t does not show creasing and crushing. The smooth velvets do. - | These particular colors are not al- | ways easy to get in this country, but| ‘women who are searching for fabrics | should remember that a deep wine red, a soft yellow belge, 2 warm ilight gray and faded copper are shades that ‘give such garments the look of old Italy. There is not much variety in the decoration. Tt is either embroidered in several colors in a small floriated| ery or tarnished metal thread, or it is the open pattern of Vene! lace, (Continued from Fourth Fage.) coming up the steps, very slowly, and | as the light from the door fell on her it seemed as though her lovely face was set in lines of worry and that her eyes looked as if she had re- cently shed tears. “She'll show herself here,” whis- |pered Nan, “and they'll probably dance once or twice. In that way peo- ple won't miss her and inquire for her at her house, and, since she’s here, out late; so he won't know she's gone until tomorrow morning. That will give them s good start. Oh, I see it allt” * ok k¥ | 1 T happened exactly as she had prophesied. Lieut. Crary finally ap- peared, and he and Mrs. Malleson danced once, closely followed by Nan and Jimmie. They both looked seri- ous and disturbed. They talked hardly at all, and Mrs. Malleson did not stop to chat with any of her friends, s was her custom. In the middle of the second dance after thelr arrival they quietly left the floor. Nan grasped Jimmie's.arm. ‘There they go," she said. “We must follow them.” They slipped out of the side- en- trance and ran around to the corner of the veranda, Behind a friendly honeysuckle vine they watched Mrs.| Malleson, clogked and veiled now, leave the club. “She's not going to let him bring the car around,” whis- pered Jimmie. “She’'s going to get in it down there.” - “I'l do that, too,” said Nan. ‘T'll run and get my cape. Keep your eye on them.” “They’re gone,” when she returned. Just as quietly as possible. up to us to hurry.” Hand .in hand they ran down to Jimmie's car and fairly flung them- ives into it. Slowly they slipped | past the brilliant club windows, and then, turning out .onto the Middle- town pike, they leaped forward in a mad burst of speed. “I'll got in sight of their tail-lights and make sure it's them,” gasped Jim- mfe, “and then we'Hl drop behind them far enough so that we can overtake them any time you want to. You'd better be thinking up what you're go- ing to 0 “I know exactly what I'm going to say,” Nan called back through the hurtling air. ‘“T'm going to appeal to her better nature.” ‘They settled themsel: rted Jiramie “They slid out Come, it's I for the pur- feeling how | suit and kept their eyes upon the road ahead. It was evident that the elop- ors were making speed. They oyer- took other cars, but not the one they sought. - Milestones slipped - behi: themn with alarming frequency., It be- e more and more avident that ey must travel far and fast if they wished to accomplish their purpose. On and on through the moonlit night' they-went, seurrying through viilages, skirting Ddits of woodland, rushing: past the Deaceful, brooding quiet of* EVENING WRAP FROM BABANL IN CAN MATRON. Life Made Simple by Nev(v Opportunity to Buy Colorful and Stimulating Garments at Mini- mum Expenditure of Time—Nore of the Venetian Clothes Found With Fur—They Call.for Pearls, for Strings of Jade ior Coral, or Bright Blue Crystals—Milliners Probably More De- PARIS, WORN BY A YOUNG AMERI- IT IS OF RASPBERRY VELVET WITH A DEEP BOR- DER OF GOLD VENETIAN LACE. one that is well known. linen, large collars and wide cuffs. The in gold or the farmlands, Up hill and down they went, through covered bridges that rang and reverberated with their auto, and all the while their flaring head- lights showed them their way like a mad spirit of flame winging before them. ‘At last, before them, they saw the racing lights of another car going as fast as their own. Inch by inch they crept up on it, straining forward to make out its shape, but it kept steadily out of their reach. “git tight,” screamed Jimmie. going to crowd her.” They drew on—foot by foot, now, steadily, surely overhauling the other car. Glearly. “It's them," called Nan, turning her 0 that she could yell into Jim- “rm On and on they went at the wildest speed. “T'Il pass and then stop 'em,” Jim- mie shrieked. They drew out and slowly, steadily, mercilessly, began to pass. But when they reached the side of the other car, strangely enough, it began to slacken speed and fall back, They were far beyond it befors they knew they had left it behind. “Stop! stop!” cried Nan. at one side and stop!” Jimmie obediently checked his car and ran it up on one side of the road. Nan jumped out and, snatching off her cape, waved it distractedly up and down, and the car, following now and running at a moderate speed, faltered and stopped, the glare of its lamps full on the scene. “What's the matter?” called Lieut. “Draw up rary. Nan and Jimmie ran forward, blown about and disheveled, and, as they did so, Mrs. Malleson, leaning out, ex- claimed: S “For heaven two doing here?’ Nan ran up to the side of the car and caught Mrs. Malleson's hands. “Oh, .dear Mrs. Malleso! he began, “don’t, don't do it. You'll regret it all your life if you do. Wa've followed you to save you “What on h!” broke out & chorus of astonishment from 'Mrs. Malleson and the lieutenant, whose eyes were fairly bulging out of his head. . “There are other ways to do it” went on Nan, paying no heed to their surprise. ‘You could go out to Reno, or somewhere, and get a divorce, and, though it isn't very nice, it wouldn't reflect on you the way this will. It'll ake, what are you break your husband's hesrt—and—and what wiil your people ssy? Think ot your mother.” “Nan!” fairly shrieked Mrs, Malle- son. “What arve You talking about? a'| Are you insane? What does this fool- ishness mean?" That she would try. to pretend noth- ing had happened, when they had fol- lowed. 80 strenuously to save her, was too much for Nan's patience. “It's no good-your trying to brasen it out” she sald angrily. .“I heard you two plan to’ go away together this after- At last their lights played on it | o Most women | never of white thread. Deep borders | more than the cut, which is normal pattern with cross lines of embroid-are familiar with it through table|of it are used on the skirt or Aro\md;and in the prevailing fashion, except the oblong Italian decolletage. Rare- 1y is the lace used on both bodice THE BITING FACTS noon in the locker room. 1 knew you were using the club dance as & chance to get away from your husband and get a good start. I thought it was my duty to follow you and show you what a dreadful thing you are trying to do and try to persuade you not to go.” ¥ oo STRANGE silence ensued. “Do you honestly mean,” asked Mrs. |Malleson at last in a queer, strained voice, “that you thought Louis and I were eloping?” | " “I know you are,” said Nan, firmly. | Mrs. Malleson got out of the car and stood, tall and lovely, in the moon- light. She seemed to be trying to repress violent emotion. “Louis Crary is my nephew,” she #ld; “my older sister's child, and I'm his guardian. I haven't told people heré because—well, because—I spp- pose it sounds absurd and vain and foolish—but I like to appear as young |as I can, and with a grown nephew jany one would know my age—pretty nearly. I am sure you don't think tiht I am eloping with my own sis- ter's child, do you?” “Well, what were you doing?”’ de- manded Nan, unappeased. Mrs. Malleson looked at Lieut. Crary and Lieut. Crary looked back at Mrs. Malleson, Simultaneously they burst into peals of laughter. They shouted—they quite inelegantly whooped. Jimmie and Nan stood by, feeling alternately angry and foolish. At last, wiping her eyes, Mrs. Mal- leson took Nan by the arm. ‘“Come here,” she sald. “I'll tell you, my dear, but I certainly won't tell Jim- mie. And you must promise, cross your heart, not to tell him, either.” She took Nan by the arm and led her over to Jimmie's car. Then she stoop- ed and whispered In her ear. “It’s my teeth!” she sald. “Your teeth!" “Sh-h-h! Yes, my teeth. They're false. That's the great secret of my lite. Nobody knows it except Louts, and I only told him yesterdsy. My husband doesn’t know it, and I don't intend he ever shall.” “Well, but what—' “Yes, I'm coming to that. Yester- day one of my plates: cracked and I knew I'd have to have it mended at once. So I told Louis, and he planned to motor over to Middletown and get the dentist there—he's a perfect won- der—to co the repairing, and get back, while Tom thought we were at the elub dance, I arranged with the dentist by long distance, we showed ourselves at the dance, and there you are!” Nan was not satisfled. “I don't see why you don't tell your husband,” she said. Mrs. Malleson smiled s crooke@ lt- tle smile In the moonlight. ‘My dear,” she sald, very sadly, “my hus- band married me because I was 5o 1beautiful and so popular and gay, and he wouldn’t care for me a minute 1f I were any less so, He'd be kind to me, I suppose. but his love for me wouldn’t be the same. I know him. i and ekirt, for it is medieval in ‘welight and appearance of splendor. Too much of it spolls the effect. The out of the gown is straight, like a chemise, and the girdle iz a | string of the fabric wound once or twice around the upper part of the hips. The sleeves are long, tled at the wrist, wrinkled up to the elbows and of excessive width at the top. ‘They are not set in at the shoulders —they are cut as part of the gown. The garment slips gver the head. LI TBB Venetian wraps have delight- ed Amerlcan -women, for they serve many purposes,.from the bath- room to the opera. They are usually | square with wide slecves and & deep decoration of metallic lace around the neck and down front. The lining is often the yellow of gold, the in-| side fabrio is satin apd the outside | fadbric is velvet. Some of these wraps have embrofdery instead of metal lace, but they gre not so ef- fective. None of them have fur. None of the Venetian clothes are found with fur. They call for pearls, for strings of jade or cpral, or the brigh blue crystals that have the coloring of Italian lakes. These blue necklaces dame Into first fashion in Paris along with the Venetian revival. They sre a bit less common than the green Chinese beads. Women found )that they can wear any of these bead necklaces with the Italisn gown bet- ter than with the modern American frocks. When one has to pay in America $50, more or less, for a good looking overblouse with striking decoration. it is not to be wondered at.that the Americans quickly picked up in Paris the Venetian blouses of heavy crepe de chine or satin, daringly and delightfully decorated, at less than $20. They are swaggering sbout quite proudly in these garments in their own home towns. They look rich and expensive and ome only whispers the real price to an inti- mate friend. Then one says it in francs. ‘They are not caught in at the hips like the average overblouse. They flare considerably at each side, they are rather short and the decoration is often bright Itallan blue and gold. The sleeves slope upward from w. line to elbow, grow tight and wrin- kled at the wrist, where they are fas- | tened with a bright band of blue {and gold embroidery that reaches up | | the sleeve to elbow. There is a deep | opening in front which is fastened | up with small loops and buttons edged and decorated with bright blue and gold. ‘These tunics are repeated in dull green satin done in sllver and gray. All of them can be copied in Amer- jica. It s the coloring, probably, that excites the admiration rather | for the sleeves. short One 1s used to the! kimono sleeve, but this BY SOPHIE KERR 1My whole life is given up to keeping ! my youth and my looks. Look here— how old do you think I am?” “About twenty-seven, or maybe thi; " said Nan honestly. | Mrs. Malleson smiled again. “I'm forty-four,” she said. “My husband is {only forty. I don't suppose you can : understand—you're too young—but life won't be worth living for me when I finally go to pieces and he sees me as I shall be then.” She looked away up the dark road. She | seemed to have forgotten Nan, They | stood thus silent for & moment, then Nan burst into sudden tears and flung her arme around her. “I'm Jjust & sllly little foo-ool” she sobbed, “and I'm so sorry I came after you—and you had to tell me. I'll never breathe it to & living soul—about your teeth, Imean. And I just lo-ove you.” “There, there,” sald Mrs. Malle-| son, returning to Her usual self and patting her briskly on the .basck. “Don’t ery—there isn't a thing to cry ! about. . You and Jimpmie hustle back and we'll hustle on to the dentist, and tomorrow this will all be our own special private joke. It {§ funny, yeu know—now, isn't it?” Nan's tears changed suddenly to hysterical giggles. “Yes, it {s,” she admitted. “Even I can see that.” Théy went back to the two men Malleson got into her car, you two,” she safd cheer- 11 see you tomorrow at the Jimmie looked at his watch. “It's only half-past 10" he said. “If we make good time going back maybe We could have another dance or two before midnight. Hop n.” Nan hopped in. “I wonder” she said, when they were well on their backward way, “why they hurriad 50 when we were following them?”. “Crary told me,” esid Jimmie, “they thought we. were that crew of motor bandits that’s been over in the other side of the state. So when we passed them and they saw a woman in the car they knew it wasn't the bandits and they slowed down.” . There was another long, long silence. Finally Nan burst out: “I'm just a hopeless idiot,” she said, “and I apologized to Mrs. Malleson and she was sweet to me. I wouldn't have blamed her if she had spit at me. The idea of my thinking I ought to reform her. And yot—you forgive me, too, Jimmie, for making you come away out hers ‘and spoiling your evening and wasting so much gas, when it's so high, and everything, don’t you? Well, I just promise you this: DPll never, never, never, so long as I live, go trying to reform people again.” The car'slowed down s grest deal and Jimmie turned to her s0 that she |: could hear him, though be spoke softly.” “I know somebody,” he sald “who wouldn’t-care how much you re-- formed him. He'd 1iké it. Honest.” And all ‘Nan could say was, “Why, Jimmie!” But that seemed a per- fectly satisfactory amswer to them Lboth. (Copyright. All rights feserved.) VENETIAN FOURTEENTH CENTURY FROCK OF CRUSHED BROWN VEL- VET EMBROIDERED IN GOLD IN A FLOWERED PATTERN BE. ‘TWEEN 'CROSS STRIPS. IT HAS SLEEVES TO THE WRIST AND A GIRDLE THE MATERIAL. something definitely borrowed from long-ago ages. It gives distinction to the garment because of its great the wrist. % & mow ROBABLY the milliners were more delighted than the dress- makers at the revival of the renaissance art and crafts. Winter hats are as colerful as Venetian pal- Their foundation is black vel- vet, but there are strips of terra cot- ta velvet embroidered in the small floriated design of Venice with gilt tinsel and colored silk threads. The effect is not Russian. It {a frequently taken for Indian and Persian. The art of all these countries was so closely allied in dead eras that one need not take particular pains to sep- arate it into different names. The patterns are small, the color is delightfully blended, but it is not the primitive crudity of the Slavic "nrk.‘ 1t is essentially sophisticated and ar- tificial. There is one velvet hat with bands of it across the upturned front and smaller bands forming & wide tab that stretches out from the ears in the Egyptian fashion. There are bicornes of velvet with these bands of floriated embroidery runing across the front and fluted out at the sides. Quite a good deal of lattice-work is used, which was & part of medieval patterning. Some of it is gold, some silver, some cop- per. Milliners have reinstated that tri- corne hat which is an essential part of the fifteenth century Venetian cos- tumery. The masque veil continues, but fts rival is the long, loose vell that drops from each side of the hat. | This is widely used on headdresses. | The Venetian head bands are of sil- iver or gold leaves, sometimes black | width at the top and narrowness at|velvet leaves with a tiny bordering ' of Venetian embroidery. i * * ¥ % MONG head ornaments is the plait- 4° ed roll of cld Italy, also of the orient. These have been worn for six months, but they have grown in im- portance as the Venetian cap has ap- peared in fashionable circles. This cap is of tulle, but not flat, like Ju- {liet's cap of pearls. It is bordered with something decorative and {s | worn to the theater, to dinner parties {and even to dances. There is no doubt that evening | gowns which have slightly full skirts gathered to long walsted bodices {have a firm place in this winter's cos- tumery, but the skirts are not crino- lined nor built over hoops. They fall | slimly and closely to the figure. The deep bertha of thread or sil- ver lace is one of the important re- | vivals from ancient Venice. It cov- |ers the top of the arms and even {drops to the waist. The line may be | straight around the figure, or it may \iba lower in the back and higher im the front. Lanvin strengthened the use of this bertha by her constant) repetition of it on eveping gowns. It brought into fashion a number of round lace col- lars. more or less precious. The fash- | ion not only pleases women, but en- hances their appearance, for it was not given to many to look begulling in a collarless frock. So get out the old family lace and arrange it into a flat, circular ber- tha, narrow or full. (Copyright, 1922) BEAUTY CHATS BY EDNA KENT FORBES. A Chat to Mothers. The last time I wrote a beauty chat particularly for young mothers I sug- gested that they wear loose and attrac- tively made smocks. For the first thought of the young mother is quite apt to be one of dismay at the {dea of losing tem- porarily, and perhaps permanently, the slim lines of her girlish figure. 8he need not lose them permanently if she takes care. Temporarily, of course, the figure must-change and perhaps sesm ugly to her for a while. But smocks will make her appear youthfully siim for many montha. This first thought about herself is not as selfish as it may appear. It is quite right and proper for & girl to pride her- self on having and keeping an attrac- trousseau handmade, for at this time she should not use a heavy sewing machine. Fatty—The only way to reduce the legs and ahkles is by means of vigor- ous exercise or massage, unless one re- duces the whole body. The latter meth- od is much more effective, since it can be accomplished so easily through right choice of kinds of foods. Worried—You are taking very good care of your skin through cleans- ing it st night and closing the pores with ice; yet you may be so exposed to soil that such a cleansing will not check the formation of blackheade. Give your complexion a weekly treat- ment for this trouble alone. A pro- fessional one would be best, and it you cannot continue with them, you can repeat them yourself at home. Most busy women in large cities keep their skin clear in this way. Menu for & Day. BREAKFAST. Prunes With Cream Baked Fish T4 Creamed Potatoes Coffee LUNCHEON. Dried Pea Soup Salmon, Salad Baking Powder Biscuits ‘malade Orange Tea Dumplings . Carrot and Pea Salad Fried Sweet Potatoes (Olives Cheese Fingers Chocolate Layer Cake