Evening Star Newspaper, July 23, 1922, Page 55

mall Masque Veils DIRECTOIRE HAT OF BLACK HORSEHAIR LINED WITH SUPPLE SILVER CLOTH AND BORDERED WITH A BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. HERE are women who ardent- Iy wish the Russian influence in dress would extend to hat- less heads, for they like the fdea. Margaret Harrison, the Baltimore s been months in journalist, who prison In Russia, writes in her “Ma- rooned in Moscow” of the constant wearlng of a shawl by women on thelr heads. They never bother about new styles in hats. The same thing is true of the Italian women. Really, what a lot of bother would be saved if these two artistic countries would (govern our taste in millinery. But they don’t. They can't. The milli- ners would not permit it It we could revert to the era of Maris Antoinette there would be no need to bother about hats and-the coiffeurs would make all the money. Rose Bertin called herself the court milliner and she became so famous a person that she was credited with helping to bring on tthe French rev- olution, yet she never made a hat. She ornamented the head of Marie Antoinette with more elaboration SHORT VEIL OF BLACK TULLE, in close touch with the movements of war, politics and other currents of life, for it was their business to re- flect these things in the coiffure. If French ships were victorious in a naval battle they created a coiffure which incorporated a ship in full sail in the middle of a woman's head. The death of a royalist must suggest a memorial coiffure; the whim of a queen, the gossip of a court, the so- cial episode of an hour, must be in- stantly reflected in an ingenious tower on the head. Taking it by- and-large, the shawl is the easiest way of the maze. The Spaniards know this. So do the Russians and the Ttalians. As the world {s what it is and hats have succeeded coiffures and, except in Spain, shawls are limited to the peasantry, we must buy new hats, and again new hats. The fashion of midsummer is for protective hats, suggested by a sunghade or by a small Victorian parasol. Hats are immense. * * k% 'HE cart-wheel brim is universal, than any mere hat could stand. and it doing that her Ingenuity was taxed more than it possibly could be today. Caroline Reboux of Paris is as famous in this era as Rose Bertin was on the eve of the revolu- tion, but even she {s mot compelled to think of something startling as| well as something new every Monday morning. * ok ok X THE milliner of today has the easier time of it, for she works with materials in her shop and offers her wares to whomever can wear them, but the milliners of that period were compelled to work With the hair of a woman, crimping it, building It in®o artificial formation and decorat- ing It according to the features of the woman's face. They had to be although we call it by the name of parasol. These brims no longer turn up at the back. They sweep far out beyond the head at the back as at the front; are not elongated at the sides. A woman who possesses hats that embody these two features of width at the side and narrowness at the back, has no reason to give them away. They are worn,, but they happen to be overshadowed by the brim that swirls in a regular circle and does not have any piece lopped off its width to make it irregular. Probably the most fashionable of these big brims is taken from the hat of a Chinese coolte. We call it mush- room. It is diffficult to wear, but the milliners like it, therefore the public accepts it. It practically hides the face, because it slopes down like Back to Fashion of Revolution BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. The Continentals in. their ragged regimentals showed shreds and patches of yellow and blue. Even Gen. Washington wore the colors. Today they reappear in women's ap- parel as lightheartedly ‘as though they had no relation to the serious days of the early American war. A hat with these colors is shown.in the sketch. It is of blue straw, with SMALL BLUE STRAW HAT., FACED WITH LEMON - COLORED TAF- FETA. COQUE FEATHERS ARE PLACED IN A POMPON AT ONE SIDE. {- slightly rolled brim, faced with yel- low taffets. At one side is a bunch of blue and yellow cock’s feathers. There are sunshade hats of yellow Straw faced with blue crepe or ar- gandle, and there are yellow organdle hats trimmed with green fowers. In the many combinations of these col- ors one gets the idea that yvellow is preferred and blue is used as back- ground. It is not a season for blue. Any other color is preferred, even black. One rarely sees a hat in the old rell- able shade, for the reason that it does nft suit the majority of summer clothes. : Since the red hat finished its vio- lent run in fashiomable soclety dnd its following, there has been a return to hats in dark, somber colors, espe- cially in black. Launched on. -the wave of this revival was the blue hat which was not too deep In coloring to lose its sparkle. It is worn with yellow gowns or white ones. It-is & relief from the pifain black hats, to which women have been so faithful| for so many years that one forgot how well the milliners could combine colors. They had little chance to ex-| . press themselves. . The shaping of the seasonal hats is not according to schedule.. No one form rises above the dther. The hat in the sketch is well known and well approved,. but it does not rule: the |- hour. . Here are the fundamentals in pre- vailing hats: One is well assured of being In fashion if the crown is high and large; if it has breadth at the sid: if the brim does not tilt downward but pretends to roll upward, and it it is shorter at back than sides. It usually covers the subject to say that trimming bursts out rocket-like from one side of the crown and hangs over|" the brim. There are newer ideas than thess, |- One is the use of soft felt| it is true. or suede as a wide crown band with two loops that make no pretense of observing the prevailing fashion, for they do not go over the brim.. They shoot into the air before.they reach it. preferred. (Copyright, 1932.) Ostrich feathers are not used,.but.] . SRA; Fashion. the oddities in a hat of this an inside brim made of ruffed White organdie which suggests one hat placed Inside of-another. In truth, this very thing has been done. There is a new felt Hat in .: maroon, which has its:iarge run down through the brim to rest on the head; this lifts the cart-wheel brim several inches above the head. There are other methods of giving this double effect, ‘this hat within a hat. For instance, there are straw bee-hive turbans that rest well down on the hair, the edge finished.With & row of roses. Above the roses’ be an fmmense brim dipping down- ward as If it were a protective shade to fragile flowers. * kK X ol 5 ERE is a resumptipn of colored cings on, hats. - Geprgette, crepe de chine and chiffon are chosen. No color is considered too faint or too crude for such usage. Mauve, gray, flesh-pink are preferred, for the rea- son that they give the most arflstic shadow; reflect their tints in' skin and eyes. Red is used as a lining and it also reflects its tint on the skin: therefore, it should not be attempted pallor or a clear magnolia tint in her complexion. Dark blue s good. Several shades of pale green give the coolmess of water. If the eyes are gray or gray- blue, no bettet color than green can be put above them. H The method of lining straw hats with velvet, which belongs to the same era whence many of our new fashions sprang, is mot revived. The milliners think it is too ‘heavy for hot weather.» Yet they do not mind bringing out wvelvet hats in August. The black velvet hat has not leaped into summer fashions. ‘-Once upon a time it was always expected when the racing season began at the beaches, The milliners in France are exhaust- ing their imaginatfon on felt. They use it o fashionable shades, and trim it with lace, fur, ribbon and tin- sel. Regardléss of its heat, women accept it. Byt they do so with an eve to econoshy. They think It will serve throughout the autumn months. The womans who cares little for the future, who prefers to dress for the moment, chobses a straw hat. Italy the French milliners to offer straw to fashionable women and we in America are so familiar with the idea that we accept it without con- sidering it a novelty. There are col- ored straws, but they are not more Tashionable than the natural maize tones. i o Black tulle and white organdie make an unusual combination. Ome of the best milliners insists that the thing is good and- there are women who wear immense hats of black tulle with white organdie as a brim lining. * X X X NE would think smart soclety in Paris had been through some piratical episode, judging . from the way they took to pirate handker- chiefs as a form of decoration. They began with knotted cravats under the rolling white callars that marked a deviation from the olive-shaped neck opening. It took Caroline.Reboux to make a straw hat with a red, black and yeillow cotton. handkerchlef around its crown to start thg fashion like a prairie fire. » i Half the women uppeduy.trlmmed |their hats with such handkerchiefs. It was easy enough to do.. The pi- rate’s knot at the side was just the sort of thing they could achieve both in the cravat and girdle. : In the midst of this hubbub about handkerchief hats it was realized that’ umgnni: HAT OF o o NATURAL -BACK \ XY an inverted bowl. The Frenchymilli- ners accentuate this shape.;, sod. by any woman unless she is sure of but felt has taken its place this year. | had her way this season in persuading | ave Been Revived for “ ANY Brims Resemble the Chinese Coolie’s Headgear—They Are Large as Small Parasols of Victorian Era—Bright Bandanna Handkerchiefs Substi- tuted for Ribboa as a Crown Trimming and Facings of Colored Georgette and Chiffon Throw an Attractive Shadow on the Face—The Poke Bonnet of the Di- _rectory Is R_e_tu'fged to Fashion by Smart Milliners—Coarse Straywr Continues in DE CHINE, handkerchlefs in general were taking a conspicuous part in fashion. White ones were insignificant. Colored ones were the thing. The brighter the better was the verdict of the dressmakers. Strange to say, it was the dressmakers who started the idea of using handkerchiefs as a color scheme on gowns. If any casual ob- server, or one outside of the intimate circle, should happen to tell a woman that her handkerchief was falling out of her hip pocket a stare might be the answer. These handkerchiefs are attached to the inside of the pocket. They are decorative, not use- ful. Tt is not meant that any one should touch them, and they Intend to look as if they were slipping out of the pocket. . The novelty people have been reap- -| well dressed. Jwhose - conar -1s lment examines your hair and tells BFFECT AT UMNDERBODICK 1OF .BEIGE CHIFFON: - - @ 24 Trr sl ing a harvest in this fashion. The moment they realized the dress- makers intended this innovation to become a significant fashion they filled the shop windows with a mul- titude of handkerchiefs. Clever ideas ran over each other. Soon there was LARGE PARASOL HAT OF BLACK TULLE WITH A SMALL INSIDE BRIM OF RUFFLED WHITE ORGANDIE. BOWS OF BLACK TULLE ARE PLACED ACROSS THE BACK OF CROW IT IS WORN WITH BLACK cm‘ were tucked under the belt of the sport suit and left to hang to the knees. Stlk handkerchiefs gave way to cotton ones. The thing which we call a bandanna in the south was be- loved of the French. A woman wear- a demand by women for the immense |ing & white knitted sport suit would colored silk handkerchiefs such as men wear when playing polo. These {tuck a red, vellow and blue plaid or polka-dot handkerchief in her belt BEAUTY CHATS BY EDNA KENT FORBES. Looking Yourself Over. 1t is necessary from time to time to repeat advice that I am sure my old readers are tired of hearing; that is the advice to look yourself over thor- oughly from time to time, critically, so that you will not fall into careless ways. room as you wish, or as you can af- ford. Mirrors make a room scem larger and make it brighter by re- flecting the light. They should be fixed, if possible, to show you your- self from different angles. You should have a mirror to show you how you look in back. It need not be & full length mirror, which is much more expensive. It need only be half the length of vour figure, but If it is placed high enough from the floor 80 you can see your eyes in it you will also be able to see your whole figure to your feet. If possible it should be hung so it reflects your back while you are before the mirror of your dressing table. In this way you are constantly seeing yourself trom all sides as you dress and with- outany extra time or trouble you will fix your hair and your frock so it looks as well from the back as from the front. This matter of how you look in back is an extremely important one. A woman whose waist and skirt show 2 white gap between them presents a ridiculous appearance. - The woman constantly untidy | where-it fastens: behind will certainly never be consldered good looking ou The bést figure 1n the world’ will lose its grace If it “Wéars a skirt that either sags or hikes in the back. = The matter of halrdressing {s still more important. Most women Wwho have any sense about dressing at all will do their hair becomingly about the face, but few dress it well in back. The Permanent Wave. The first thing that happens in the permanent wave process is a shampoo, or rather, that is the second thing, for 'the very first thing Is that monsieur or madam who runs the establish- you whether or not it will take & wave, If it's a good shop (and for & process like this you should go to the very best), you will be told whether 2 - K ¢ Jor not you should have:your hair ,FFALIAN STRAW, WITH CROWN OF cock’s feathers are. Flat flowers are | PRINTED: GEORGETTE 'ARRANGED. IN A LARGE BOW AT ONE SIDE. st THE-€OWN IS OF BROWY GREPE DF, CHINE WFFH CAPE whvefl. If the halr is quite unhealthy it shouldn’t be done. - If any sort of Have as many mirrors in your ; aye fs used it shouldn't-be waved.| Otherwise it is perfectly harmless. 3 The hair, then, is shampooed and dried, then a second attendant appears with a small box contaning an assort- ment of what look like odds and ends of small tools. These are the metal curlers, some of them are small pieces of aluminum,. the thickness of a lead pencil and three or four inches long. Some of them are fix inches long and hollow and about the shape of a boy’'s penny whistle. All of them finish at one end like a fork except that the space between the prongs is a mere slit in the metal. The attendant now separates the hair into small, thin strands; each strand is tied as close to the acalp as possible with & bit of string about twelve inches long. Then a metal curler is fastened to the hair by slip- ping the ends of the string between the prongs. Each strand of hair then is rolled tightly around the curler and the ends are wrapped in a bit of gauze and bound down Wwith quantities of soft white string. This is merely so the hair cannot slip. All this is only the begfnning of the process, about which I will talk later. Bobby.—In curling hair that fis bebbed, you can use the kid curlers and roll the hair over them so you take in the short lengths. while you merely roll the lower part of the longer hair. A girl five feet five inches at nineteen years should weigh 120 pounds. Lorry—Tint your gray halrs with henna &0 they will not show. This is easily done without affecting the nat- shade of your halr. If you care to do_this and require information on if, 1 shall be glad to mall it to you on recelpt of a stamped addressed en- velope. Anna:—A blackhead powder is made by mixing together one ounce of pow- @ered borax, one ounce of lmond meal dered borax, one ounce of almond meal is used in the place of soap. Myra:—There can be no merit in the things you have been using upon hair if it has been growing mare life- less all the time. A fine toothed comb is irritating to the scalp and should only be used when needed. Dandruff is best removed by sham- poolng after all the scales have been softened by means of a massage with hot crude oil. . The e ‘way to restore your-hair to a healthy con- dition is to build up the scalp and this ‘can be done by incressing the circulation in it through a daily and vigorous massage, or by treating it with ‘the wibrator. ‘A goed tonic will also hetp. | - | T was | ing | charity $2 U WHEEL TRIMMIN OF MAUVE AND GRAY. and consider herself smartly turned out. If she could find two handker- chiefs alike, one would g0 on the { parasol hat. * k k * Caroline Reboux who de- signed the collapsible ribbon hat |iast July. and it is still bought and worn. Several of the ners have invented new phases of it A new hat launched in France Is the poke bonnet of the Directos This is a shape that has come in and out of fashion. It goes with the short waist lines, full skirts and pointed shawls used as capes. Each of these fashions i= exploited in Paris. When' combined, it is expected they will overthrow the draped gown, the long waist and the slashed sleeves. Along with the poke honnet there is a revival of the Venetian masque French milli- | | PERSONAL HEALTH SERVICE By William Brady, M. D. Noted Physician and Author. LARGE HAT OF GRAY COARSE STRAW, WITH THE PREVAILING AND A LOW WIDE CROWN TRIMMED WITH ROSES THE FROCK IS OF PALE GRAY CREPE, WITH CAPE TO MATCH, ITS COLLAR MADE OF ROSES. veil. It has nothing of mystery about it in its new guise. When it is on a Venetlan tricorne it attempts to ‘p.m.u.\» hide the eyes and gives somewhat the appearance of the masque from which it sprang, but on the poke it is merely a pleasant way to soften the stiff edge of the | scoop brim. The Directoire hat that has caused much talk in Paris is of black silk horsehair lined with thin silver cloth The veil is of black tulle, the front is trimmed with an immense group of silk roses—three of them, as big as cabbages—which jut out from the front of the high crown. Their color is deep pink. This change is another evidence that clothes are trekking away from where they have been. The change may be slow, but it is sure. (Copyright, 1822.) A Walking Club. In Kansas City there was organized a year or two ago a walking club, named “Heart Club,” having no dues, and with a highly commendable purpose—namely, “to encourage more general interest and participation in the healthful and delightful exercise of walking.” The Kansas City club is nota club of long- distance walkers, nor is it particu- larly interested in long hikes. Any person over sixteen years of age may become a member, the applicant be- required to donate to some = evidence of goed faith,” choosing his own charity for the gift. The applicant must pledge on his honor to walk a minimum of two miles a day in addition to his usual activitles, and to increase this dis- tance gradually to three miles a day or more, at his or her discretion, with sickness or inclement weather as the only valld excuses for failing to main- tain this schedule. Sickness is a good enough excuse. Inclement weather is no excuse &t all, unless the club is for mollycoddles only. The Heart of America Walking Club has a “decalogue of modern peripa- tetics,” devised by the president of the club, Edwin J. Shannahan, and this desalogue is full of excellent suggestions for folks who need more oxygen on the hoof—and they are legion, As a stimulant to the thinking process walking is by far the best thing in the world. When you are up against a problem and want a solu- tion, put on your walking kicks and be off. If you are fortunate enough to run into “Inclement weather,” all the better. There is inspiration in storm and rain. When we regard sadly the vast number of once healthy and vigorous young American men and women who are now grown ungainly, pop-eved, short of breath and short of vitality, entirely through their own negleot, the sitting habit and the flivver evil, the crying need for walking clubs becomes manifest. If everybody hot physically disabled were required to take the pledge to ambulate a mini- mum of three miles each day outside of his or her ordinary activity, un- Qquestionably there would be a marked decrease in the prevalence of the fol- lowing diseases, which it affords me great pleasure to mention: Autointoxication, biliousness, rheu- matism, catarrh, neurasthenia, indi- gostion, uric acid trouble, constipa- tion, anemia, mnervousness, impure bloed and spring fever. Ot course, these are not diseases. But ‘folks who sit too much or just hang around somewhere killing time, | as I gather, are generally susceptible to diseases which ain’t. Aren’t th€y? And if the club should ‘encourage members to increase their minimum dosage to two miles on the hoof three times a day the following’ diseases of America Walking | would certainly become less conspicu- ous in the mortality records: Arteriosclerosis, myocarditis, ne- phritis, apoplexy, diabetes and pneu- monia. One of the best hints in the “deca- logue of modern peripatetics,” I think. is the fourth: “Walk wherever you please. but try to add to the interest of your daily walk by searching out new routes, and, whenever possible, choose a jaunt into the country In preference to the hard sidewalks and drab surroundings of congested eity streets.” Kansas City or any other city is to be congratulated on the wholes atmosphere that inspires a W club. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. Antitoxin. A malignant type of diphtheria broke out in our vicinity. Several persons died, apparently from heart failure. Some people claim antitoxin weakens the heart. The physicians claim it is the diphtheria that weak- ens the heart. Does antitoxin weaken the heart?—(Mrs. H. E)) Answer—No. Diphtheria poison at- tacks the heart. The proportion of victims of diphtheria whose hearts were overwhelmed by the poison was far greater in the days before anti- toxin was introduced. If enough antitoxin were given in the first dose, and the first dose were given on the doctor's first suspicion, without wait- ing for the bacteriological examina- tion of the culture, heart faflure would be prevented. Give the Baby a Chanmce. Is it safe for me to discard my baby's woolen shirt, band and stock- ings? Have been told he will get sick if T do. He is three and one-half months old. What is good for prickly heat?—(Mrs. §.) Answer—Yes, he will be forupate not to get sick if you don't. Just didies on these hot days. Cotton nighty at night. | (Copyright, 1922.) Porch Party Refreshments. Teed Cantaloupe. Creamed ™sh in Ramekins. Saratoga Chips. Fruit Salad, Cheese Wafers. Lemon Sherbet. Assorted Cakes. Nuts, Bombons, Iced Grape Juice. L. Chicken. 1 Baking P wer Blscott o .. . " P attuce Bandwiches. Eggs Stuffed with Ham, Olives. Pickles. Tarts. i Chocolate Layer Cake. Lemonade or Grape Juice. 1v. Veal Timbales with Tomato Sauce. Lemon Pudding with Custard Sauce. fee. .