Evening Star Newspaper, July 2, 1922, Page 59

Paris Fashions at Summer Races Are Viewed by Ameriéans THIS DARK BLLE CR DE BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE, ARLY spring races in Paris chilled women to the bone. but the early summer ones were run under a Chinese blue sky, “ saft breeze and a flickering of green vaves. Paris ix nmearest to physical rfection on such summer days. The vety of the people, their adoration of horse racing. their love of the open. send them into whatever amusement takes place under the sky —even when it rain This June just past the brilliant spec- tacle of a French’'crowd at its favor- | S0 vague that it neither knows nor ite pastime was made interesting to)cares what are its habits. It likes g America by the sound of American | the crowd, and that crowd is a mot- already come into existence among|the string of pearls is pulied out. It voices, the sight of their faces. the!ley. brilliani, well-dressed. spend- weavers. Only the public re-|is in keeping with the medieval chatter of their excitement. Hun- | thrift crowd. Such Is what the Amert- | mains to be persuaded of their loveli- | fashion for cut-out designs, usually dreds of our citizens were out for the cal Crosses the ocean to see and no | ness. The gowns at the French races n sights. For Paris is given over to|Some member of the effete nobility | | were significant in that they per-|color. Ameficans this season. It is as|economically dressed. | | suaded a large segment of the Ameri-| The foulards which were worn at dominated by us as in 1919 during| After the races come tea. sirups | can public to adopt the fashion. the races had light colored founda the peace conference when the exit'and dancing. In the Bois one has a s tions with immense scrolls, done in of homeward-bound soldiers pro-!choice of restaurants that are as gay | AT LEFT—THIS TYPE OF JUMPER JACKET IS THE SMARTEST ONE IN PARIS. IT IS OF BLACK CLQKY. {colors. The edges of these gowns longed the war atmosphere in Paris. fas children's toys. Flower gardens| —THE PREVAILING FABRIC; IT 1S FASTENED AT THE HIP LINE, AND WORN WITH A WHITE CREPE COTHER fact strikingly brought|were usually bound with crepe or Grumble as Americans may at|spread before them. American jazz. DE CHINE SKIRT. THESE JACKETS RARELY CARRY A SKIRT TO MATCH. oW 4 ¢ | silk in the color of the scrolls. present prices. they are in Krance to | often played by Americans, beats out out by the flower garden Of|"pi fashion for figured fabrics has | see the sights and do not futend tolits syncopated time. AT RIGHT—CAPE OF ALMOND GREEN BOUND WITH BROWN BRAID, CARRYING OUT TWO POPULAR COL- | clothes worn at the races was the miss a single thing. One wouid think| The small green tables are filled ORS AT FRENCH RACES. THE PUFFED COLLAR I8 MADE OF PRINTED WOOLEN. THIS EXAGGERATED | yrevalence of figured fabrics. Foul- | collar of woolen printed in bright the French people were running al|with tall cold glasses of orangeade ‘OLLAR IS IN THE FOREGROUND. ard was promised a significant place, | patterns was used for smart cape tremendous summer festival to which the Americans paid entrance fee. To this mass. the spectacle of racing in such sumptuous and fashionable sur- roundings as France affords is rare novelty. Every phase is represented cial curiosity gratified. of American society there to have its spe- CHIN WAS ONE | movie queen or royal princess swingx into view. | o % % \[TM-IONS of francs are lost and| won. but little of this concerns | Americ the ns. They let the British and Latins gamble while they con- sutrate their attention on the crowd, the ¢ the gayety, the clothes. ™ throng meets on Sun- day The smart set does motley ternoon. the races on this day. but to the and citronade. It js rare to see the French drinking anything else in the afternoon Usually the Americans follow theiy example. unless they be- long to the class that has fled from its Constitution to get another kind of a drink. Whatever the Puritan habits of Our “‘Omtnl walk slowly behind mannequins sent | ga. the Anglo-Saxon at home on Sun- . they are curiously forgotten by out from the dressmaking houses,|the Americans in Paris. One permits commenting, mot in whispers. upon | oneself license when traveling that each trick and turn of the frack.|would be considered sinful at home. American buyers go through the!Therefore they dance, go to the races. swirling crowd with pencil and paper. | listdn to jazz, dine at a restaurant American illustratoss never look at|and are not one whit perturbed in the hors They are rapidly sketch- | conscience. ing. standing as close to the vietim as they can get without being ques- tioned. The day after the Sunday races the American women fare forth to every shop with knowledge that they have American photographers are click- | seen and digested the fashions of the ing their cameras whenever a freak- | world. They are ready lo order 1sh frock moves into the light. or | cloth They say: “I saw this ves- BEAUTY CHATS BY EDNA KENT FORBES. Reducing. Losing flesh is a much simpler proc- ess than most women believe. As we were saying last ‘week. if you take less energy into the body by food than you consume in exercise you will be certain to lose weight. This 1s an absolute rule, and the fat wom- en who declare they hardly eat a thing afid go on daily increasing in girth are not the exceptions to this rule that they fondly imagine. They simply have forgotten how much they really have been eating. Fat people, of course, thrive and increase in girth on fairly small amounts of food. Their systems turn everything possible into flesh, yet if they eat less they will reduce. They cannot help it. Their bodies will take up the surplus fat and recon- sume it. The. ining. then, is to diet. Stout pesPe, being fond of what they eat, fiad this the hard part. In fact, most f them find it %o hard that they give ap without half trying. _ ®at there are two ways to diet; ous is to eat less in guantity. You cannot help but reduce if you do that. The other is to eat foods that will not produce flesh, or at least foods that will not produce so much flesh. It you lived on spimach and turnips you would certainly lose weight un- 1dly, dut you eo-.m not dn this, *of courss, -I- ot w vufl"m a0t} found in these two vegetables. It is possible to have & balanced ration and to supply the body with everything It, needs without feeding into it unwanted fat. Eliminating such fattening foods as cream, butter and sugar is one way of doing it. Brown Eyes—Eczema should be treated by a physician and not han- dled through simple home remedies. J. E. W.—When a wart is on the face it is better to have it removed by a physician and take no chance of leaving a scar. ; Aimie—The juice of cucumber makes a good bleach at this season, which can be used as well for the hands and arms as for the complex- ion. G. B. L—For the oily condition of the skin over the nose use a mild astringent such as any of the toilet ‘waters. Katherine—If the ingredients in your cream gid' not mix, you did not follow the directions given with the formula. - The only thing to do now is to heat it over, using a double boiler. but do not let it become over- heated, 'and then beat it'all together with a silver fork until it become: smooth and the consistency of cream. You have not spoiled the quality any, S0 it can be used, even though it will meyer be as mmn &'cream &s. lf you W steln OF TH:Z POPLLAR| DNG CUTRASS 'Onl('lci EVES ARE OF FIGURED | not consider it smart to be seen at! American the inner French circle is SENDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. G, JULY 2 -1922-PART 4 . TTERNED Fabrics Are Established and Are Substituted in This Coun~ try for Plain Crepes Which American Women Have Worn for Several Years—They Are Made by a New Process Which Raises a Figured Design Over the Surface of the Fabrxc. Some of It Called “Wafer™ and Some Called “Waffle.” It'Ts Believed That Smooth Weaves Will Soon Become Second Class. ». e r’ A | i],‘ 4 lllu‘ oo | SIGN THAT FASHION LIKES. | PEARLS IS A NOVELTY. SILVER ROSES. terday at the races; 1 am told that that gown is too popular: it has been worn for four months at the races.” It is thus they learn the differende between what is new and old. They pay their money for pleasure and get their sartorial certainty. * ok k% HROUGH this process there is no “doubt in the minds of the ex- perienced who have watched the progress of clothes across the Atlan- tic that much which was worn yes- terday in France will be worn to- morrow in America. It will dot Europe on the figures of Americans from the 'Lido to ‘the ‘English lgkcs this summer. The fabrics may not be sultable for our autumn weather, but the ideas will find a new setting in warm fabries. The jumper jacket catches the at- tention of Americans at the begin- ning of their adventure in clothes. They like its informality. It is the French version of a sweater. It is 80 popular that one sees it a trifle too often in Paris, but there is an expectation that it may become par- tially standardized and therefore it Is well to buy and wear it. At the early races, when the weather was cold., It was launched in fur, in suede. in heavy cloth fab- rics, As the weather grew mnormal/ dressmakers launched it in the ma- terials known as gaufre and cloky. These came to America In March. They are admirable tabrics for hot weather. One fashion fact that Americans discovered was that a jumper jacket is nmot supposed to match the skirt or frock with which it is wor color iz chosen without relatio; the rest of one’s wardrobe. to have been the result of this creed; it it harmonizes with the costume, %0, much the. better: .if .if. daesu't, what'y the odds? At the races it is frequently seen in black, in leaf shades of brown, but rarely in red or mauve or light green. It is in almond green. the coler Jeanne Lanvin -launched last : January and which has grown to be conspicu-- ous in the costumery at the races. : * X k¥ A FURTHER word might be, saia regarding these weaves called gaufre and cloky. They are not new to the manufacturers, The name “gaufre” means waffle iron and the fabric by that name has A honeycomb design. The wafer design is more popular. It is a spider- web tracery over the surface, but it 100ks more as if it were made by a| mole than a spider. Tea wafers show it. These fabrics were the first to break the long-established popular- ity of the flat surface. It Is wise for women to know that the races in Paris not only emphasized these! two weaves, but they launched sev-| eral others which were created by leading makers of materials. These ahead us a year behind.” Every one who writes on the subject of clothes runs against that stumbling block. Fashion reporters are more apt to be in front than behind. It -is their duty to emphasize things that will appear, or have just appeared. rather than those which are common knowl- edge. But the consumers. women, do not turn their attention to a fashion until it Is worn by their neighbors. Therein lies the fixed gulf of differ- ence between the writer and the| public. Now that these new .and significant French weaves are coming into evi- dence among the women who buy new fabrics, it is wise to.describe them again. They' are light in (Continued from Second Page.) amasement my ex-lance corporal rose heavily to his feet. His face was brick-red and his eyes glowed with anger. He pointed his big fingers al Ephraim and exclaimed: “Yes, tal talk. talk—that's all it is. There's nothing in it at all,” and he hobbled facts are taken as evidence that theiout of the room (you know he was ralsed and patterned fabric is to pre- | wounded in the right foot). The po- cede the plain one. The crepe weave | sition vou may imagine was 2 the .,.'," 0 ‘| AT RIGHT—GOWN OF GRAY CREPE, THE CHIFFON SLEEVES ARE ORIENTAL IN THEIR IMMENSITY. | FROM THE BACK OF SHOULDERS. but it ran second to the crinkled crepes. It had distinction, however, and ‘a few remarkably good frocks of it were worn by women who know how to dress. One of these launched a novelty that is just the kind of thing our manufacturers will take up. It had a crescent neck opening, shaped like a new moon, placed below the neck binding. It is intended to show the string of pesrls worn under instead of over the frock. This is a trick many smart women carry out when they are mot formally, attired; then \\nm\ 4,1.4” y 1 iy Ve "n 4“,|n. G gl uutl} \'1[)“;4,1,',!", ( A HALF-MOON OPENING BELOW 7 of almond green which attracted the attention of Americans at the races. It was a short cape, not intending to meet in the front, which ripplea from hips at side to heels at back. The edges were bound with brown braid; so was the collar, which was padded Into a big Perslan roll, or possibly it was more like the orna- mental puffed trunks worn by tme cavaliers in Elizabethan days. Thege immense collars are smart on any kind of wrap that is not a coat. Among the gowns that won at the races wasa long-walsted, ful'l-akirted t( ll’ ' Q ON THE LEFT 1§ A CHEMISE FROCK OF FIGURED FOULARD, ITS PATTERN IN THE BIG SWIRLING DE- THE COLLAR BAND TO SHOW THE BEADED, WITH AN ORNATE GIRDLE OF THERE ARE SLINGS affair that carried out Paul Poiret’s determination to make such frocks the ruling fashion. It had a slim filled in by an underslip of another | straight bodice cut like a coat of { mail, to the edge of which was gath- ered a full skirt that touched the ankles. It had no irregularity in fts hem. The sleeves were immens pleces of arm covering, the materials a figured chiffon. This is & weave that is constantly worn by smart women in Paris and gone so far that an immense puffed | carries out the new verdict for pat- blown to peices the next I had tramped hunderds of miles and gone without food and watter T had sesn hell itselt sir. And when you are always with death like that sir you are always so much alive you are alive and then the next minnit you may be dead and it makes you want | to feel in touch like with everythin You cant hate noone when your like that you think bof the other feller oversthere whose thinkin like you are weight, their weave is crepe and their surface is a spider web pattern which is raised above the surface slightly, will continue in fashion, but its sur-| face will cease to be smooth. A wide variety of crinkles and little trying. I did not feel in jmood to stay and make apologies. 1 caught him hurried after Codling. but perceptibly. It is this patterned | wrinkles, honeycombs and spider up at the end of the lane. I said: surface which makes the difference [webs, waffles and wafers. will soon |“Codling. Why did you do ll.lll He between them and what has been. come into existence. They have|could not speak for a Jong time, then he sald 'm sorry, sir.. It came over me like, all of & sudden,” We walked on. At the corner by Harvey's mill weo met a girl. Her face was wet—there was a fine rain falling at the time. HOUSEKEEPING prehaps and he all alone to lookin up the blinkin stars and it comes over you that its only love that holds us all together love, and nothin else at all my hart was breakin thinkin of Annie what I had treated so bad and what T had been throw and he went on spoutin and spoutin What does he know abqut physology You have to had been very near death to find the big things what I found out and They looked at each other, these two, | then she suddenly threw out her arms and burled her face on his chest. 1 realizsed that this was no place for me and I hurried on. The following ‘on the other needle; knit this center imorning I received the inclosed let- plece for 18 ribs (or 36 times across). | ter. Please return it to me. Yrs. ever, “Knit over once to opposite side— 1 JAMES. then with left needls take up the stitches on side of toe part (or center strip); knit across to the end. Knit back and take-up stitches on other side of toe with left needle, and con- tinue knitting across to end (the side BY LAURA KIRKMAN. Knitting Directions. The. following knitting directions for baby garments have been sent to. me by two reader friends, with the request that 1 publish them for other women (o use: “Baby Stockings.—Two balls white two-fold Saxony, one ball pink; steel needles, .No. 15. Cast on 52 stitche: of a color (pale pink or baby blue). Knit 4 ribs (8 times across). Alws. count with end of worsted on the right. Now take white yarn and knit 2 ribs (4 times across). Fifth time across knit 2, thread over, knit 2 Alfred Codling to James Weekes. Dear Sir — Please to irrase my name from' the littery soc I feel I have treated you bad .about it but there it is. I appollogize to yvou for where worsted begins). Knit § ribs|treatin you bad like this that is all 1 (10 times across). Knit 2 together |regrét ~You have always been kind on each end and every other time and pleasant to me léndin me the across for 3 ribs, and bind off. Sew |books and that. I shall always be up leg and foot. Crochet shells at|@rateful to you for what vou have top. done. It all came over me sudden _ “Baby Slipon.—Two balls (nur-loldlllko 1ast night while that chap was spoutin out about what you ‘call 2 bone needles, No. 8. I couldnt tell these littery blokes that thats why I lost my temper and so please irrase me frdm the soc They cant teach me nothin that matters. Ive seen it all and I cant teach them nothin because they havent been throw, it What T have larnt is sir that theres somethin big In our Itves apart from getting on and comfits and good times and 5o sir I am much oblidged for all you done for me and except my appology for the way I treat you Your obedient servant, ALFRED CODDLING. James Weekes to Edwin Jope. Dear Jope—In reply to your letter, I cannot see my way to apologize or even to dissociate myself with the views expressed by Mr. Alfred Cod- terened fabrics over plain ones. (Copyright. 1922.) A MAN OF LETTERS. to give us that horseshair and mother says therell be twenty five pounds comin to me when Uncle Steve pegs out and he has the dropsie all right already What do vou say to Aperill if we can git that cottidge of Mrs Plummers mothers see you Sunday. XXXXXXXXx X love from ANNIE. Ephraim Baldwin to Edwin Jope. Dear Mr. Jope—As no apology has been forthcoming to me from any quarter for the outrageous insult I was subjected to on the occasion &f my last paper, I must ask you to sc- cept my resignation. Yrs. faithtully, EPHRIAM BALDWIN, O. B. E. Alfred Codling to Annie Phelps My dear Anne—You will be plaesed to hear they made me foreman this ‘will mean an incres and ®e on I think April will be alright Mr. Weeks sent me check fer fifty pounds to start fernishin but I took it back I said no 1 could not accept it havin done nothin to earn it and treatin him 8¢ bad over that litery soc but he sald yes and he put it in such a way that T a after all so we shall be alright for fernishin at the present He was very kind and Le says we was to g9 to him at any time and I was to go on readin the books he says I shall together; continue across like from °. Knit back plain. Knit one more b of white (2 times across). This strip .should be the. same width as the colored strip. ' \“Now with the" colored worsted again, knit 4 ribs (8 times acros To . Make the Knee—Take white worsted and knit 27 stitches. turn, knit 8 and turn—Kknit 4, turn—kait §, turp—continue this till, all the stitches are knit off. nit 19 ribs (er '| 38 times aeroas).. Narrow mext row— as a_novelty whencv pears in & garment 1 te them up rather ‘fully Tad byitaking 2:stitches together at each end. Narrow again—and" knit5 ribs. Knit .5 ribs (ofr 10 times tcl"l')- ) ribs and Saxony, white; Cast om 72 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2, for 11; inches. Knit 32 ribs. Cast on 32 stitehes for stee (each aide). Knit 16 ribs. Knit 57 stitches and leave.on pin. Bind off 20 stitches for neck * Knit 3 ribs and cast on 18 stitches for front of neck. Knit 16 rows. Cast off 32 stitches for sleeves, knit' four, ribs; Repeat from * for Gther “gide. . Then put all on onme neéte and jknit plain to within 1% inchps from bottom (this 1% inches #hould be knit 2, purl 2, llke the back of the sweater). “When the INtle gar- mrt is finished it ia a elipon sweat- I had never heard tell on ing at our/last meeting, consequently find good, things in them but mot the littery soc he sava he had left it his- self I feel I treated him very bad but T could not stand that feller spoutin and him never havin been throw it like wkat I have That dog of Charlys killed one of Mrs Reeves chicki Monday 5o must now close till Sunday. with love frem Your soon husban (dent it seun: funny?) - physology. the word till. you put me on to it and now!they all talk about it. I looked it up in the dicktion and it says something about the sclence of mind and that chap went on spoutin about it. 1 had quarref with my girl we ha d:::"-:::"l‘r.he;:?l:“&: ;:; v:,{ jerary Bociety. Yrs. faithtully, a feller could wish and I have always| | LD said 0 Somehow last night while|Annie Phelps to Alfréd Codling. he was spoutin on it came over me| . My dear Alf—Of course its all right sudden’1 thowt of the nights I had|l am right now desr Alf I will try spent aloné in the deasert when it|and be a good wife to you I amnt "--llquutud-hn;- n almorunm‘mh.um,u‘lu I must ask you to accept my resigna- tion. Your vy truly JAMES WEEKES. [Snmugl Childers to Edwin Jope. Dear Jope—Taking into conside jtion all the circumstances of the a Ycase 1 must ask vou to accept my resignation from the TibbelsfQrd Lit- Edwin Jope to Waiter Bunni: Dea? Sir—In reply to your letter I, beg to say that Tibbelsford literary soclety is dissolved. v Yrs taithfully, E. JOPE. (Copyright, 1922. All rights reserved.) A girl employed in a suka-.“- factory which exports matches parts of th vold wrote on un bou.,