Evening Star Newspaper, June 4, 1922, Page 71

SHORT JACKET OF FINELY IMMENSE COLLAR STANDING AT NECK HOLDS THE JACKE' ONE-POCKET. TUCKED CREPE AWAY F . A LONG SILK TASS DE CHINE, WITH CK. ONE BUTTON L HANGS FROM OM THE N\ BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. continent will be bodily transferred 1 Fan iheicoia et - if the exodus continues. it n Franee that brought | IS N0 longer possible to be indifferent e T3 of conts to tne|te what is worn in Parts. attention of smart women il S Every one who- has trled to be gay | T is not reaseuring to say that as in our south in winter holidays when!l far as the season has gonme the | the skies are dark and the sleet falls; | only startling bits of costumery are all who have tried to feel they were |brilliant juckets and bright hats. The getting their money’s worth out of showiug, Eurppe in a spring when the snow drifts,.know the careless attitude to- ward new clothes, just * and puts on wh One ¥s, is So, in Paris, during the weeks when it_should have been warm and sun- bathed, it has rained, then ag rained, until’ American tourists have | fled to Italy. where they found it quite as bad. Those who delaved sailing from America until there was RED; AND . GREEN CHECKED JACKET WITH BROAD SURPLICE i COLLAR THAT RUNS TO GREEN SUEDE BELT. WORN WITH HOME- SPUN SKIRT IN DULL GREEN WITHOUT TRINMING. - m———————————— gusrantee that warm and bright » weather was impending feel jubilant. ! Fnugly enveloped in a wonderful § ‘Bpring at home they send jeering let- ! ters to.thdse who tried to be the first ) to put the impetus into the sensp- i tional American season in Europe. ' But as every one seems to be going gmld and fears that uurmmc-n\ | as at the races that the French | appeared in short jackees of bright colored suede as a substitute for pel- try. Cheruit, a srvative house, launched a number of these garments. and its patrons, who are among, the leaders of dress, wore them In_the open. These were imitated in kasha, in heavy crepe, in the newly accepted cloky patterns. These latter crinkle the fabric as lhoru‘h it Were soaked and not ironed. Ermine also made its- appearance: - Mopkey : - fringe trimmed it; for the French continue this ugly fur as if it-had beauty-and grace. 2hs st o The forerunner of the suede jacket was the soft leather one sent out by Poiret last: February, The new -ones. are more supple; they are like velvet. They -have little: welght, no appear- ance of bulk, yet are said to be suffi- clently warm to withstand the wintry winds that have blown .in Frange since March. They are green, hogzon blue, fog grey, navy blue, flag red, pale leaf brown and warm heige, Some are belted low, others are held into the hips by a tight band. The manner of their fastening seems to give the dressmakers slight concern. Po: bly one button does the work. Again a surpliée” collar holds the fronts in place and the belt does the rest. * k x T is an ill wind that blows no ome good, is the maxim of the Paris dressmakers, referring to the cold and strenuous atmosphere which con- tained a promise of disaster. It s too famp and chill for one-plece frocks, they said, then accept a new kind of garment. So the bright and in- genious short coat was launched. It will stick. Hot weather will prob- ably see it at the beaches where the | vast horde of American tourists have already engaged places to see the sights. v 3 1f we do not get into these suede and ermine jackets at present, it is certain that we are taking up the cloth kind with enthusiasm. They fill @ need. They meet’a necessity. he long coat is heavy, the cape| | blows in the wind and needs frequent manipulation, but the short jacket presents no obstacles to comfort. It takes the place of the sweater.. -It relegates the-latter to the house, the ftields of sport, the country. The col- orful jacket has no. limité set upon its appearance. It fllls the streets. It also makes possible the use of_ the separate skirt and wash hlouses. This lition gently indicates that the one-piece frock has rivals, Old and familiar rivals, these, beloved by the neration just preceding this. None of these new colorful jackets extend below the hips.” The smart ones end at the point of the hipk There may be pockets, as in Lanvin's short jacket of polished and patterned crepe, or just plain hips. In all of these there plenty of shoulder room. They narrow as they descend. Those of suede are usually worn with cloth skirts; sometimes they.have fur collars. Those of cloth are brightly embroidered with_silk or metal in Russian Persian -patterns, With a plain skirt, a jacket will often have H IT was Caroline Reboux of Paris who thought of the suede hat to go with the jacket of the same fabric. Possibly we shall see a few hundred Americans wearing =uch hats in bright colors when they return from Europe. They are admirably matched 1o the jacket, providing they are not opposing in color, but .women also wear them with a plain tailored suit which. has returned <o fashion, but with a difference. It is more formal = tricate b of Y £5 it a":n‘;‘”"r”‘mm h;“r"‘“if";;:i in its accessories than the loose suits ‘““”h ‘;h.. e of last summer. Tt takes on the airs and mannerisms of a ceremonial cos- It is not considered beneath the p ume, dignity of such a gay and expenaive facket in consort with a white ln-| The kid hat, as Reboux fashions it, kerie blouse. When this is done, the [has a draped crown. Others have a | Collar of the "blouse 1s pulled nts|softly modeled high crown with a | view over thé collar of the Jackbt.|short brim that slightly rolls in front An’ unimportant band and bow ac- company it. This is the summer suh- stitute for our felt hat of the winter. It {s hot and moisture-producing for our American summers, but that dis- advantage may not put it out of the &8 running. ’ Snrart as the suede hat is, it does not deflect-attention from the quantities of ©*¢ letraw -hats that dot the landscape. 2 These are as often beige as ed, as often green as black. Color, vivid and com- pelling, ‘does not alarm or repel, this season. Uffortunately, it is worn by tHe wrong woman as frequently as by the right one: The verdiét of Paris for the reversal of bli¢k hats was rendered at the races, whete Tashions are launched. If any New Lamp Shades For ' Summer Use This is the time of year to prepare the furnishings for our summer homes, wherever they may be—unless, indeed, we-have already attended to this duty amd occupation. Some women do bits now 'and then all through the winter for the further embellishment of their sumnmier houses. _ A’'new lamp shade is made of white, Very thin silk, two or three layers of it ih the usual way to keep the bulb wires from glaring through. Round and round the ‘shade are fastened frills of narrow colored lace, pink, deep rose, blue or vellow, according to the color decora- tions_in’ the room where it is to be used. Such a lamp shadg glyes off a maximum of light and is especially de- sirable. for, the small lamp. on dressing table or reading stand In the bedrpom. .Lamp shades are made of fine white batiste as a foundation for all sorts of odds and ends of old bits-of embroidery and -lace, - ‘Hand embroidery and .reat lace, of course. Theee: yellowed bits are sewed together in patchwork fash- ioh and are edged with a:frill 'of narrow lace, then ‘draped over & wire- lamp ghade-dovered with rose or golden yel- low silk.’ : ki “THose long-handled lamp shades with the curved ends of the Wwire framewoik thit clarp over the head of the bed if you wish.® are made into doll limps. there®are a doll's head, body and arms, and then over the electric light bulb there are voluminous skirts of rose or yellow ailk, These are somefimes draped with net and lage or with mull gug lace, to match the bedspread of the bed whereon the doll ‘reposes. Of chyifse, the particular charm of this sort of reading lamp is that it may be easily carried from place to place and hopked nto position over the top. of chalr, dressing table or bed. . . Thare are special dressing tabls lamps that are fastened against the mirror, thus casting a softened light. oyer the one sitting in front. of the dressing ta- ble-and e bright light into the mirror. These-shades are covered with silk and gliv braid and fringe, -~ - - An effect shade for a very large lamp 1é made of gayly figured thin silk gath- efed with a little heading avound-the top, fastened to the upper edge ‘of‘a lamp shade frame and left to hang freely. . Y | The edict for-a sevete necklin® has gone thé way of othér fashions. We shall see it again, but 1t wil Eleep | for awhile. That is good. The fashion | was never gracious, never kind ‘to | temininity. s T YT, RED SUEDE JACKET'WORN OVER A~ WHITE " ORGANDIE BLOUSE, WHICH -HAS AYBRUAD TOLLAR EDGED “WITH LACE/“THR: SKIRT IS BLACK CREPP, THE BELT I8 BLACK PATENT LEATHER PASS- ING THROUGH POCKET FLAPS, Soft Suede Iaclgets Have Appeared in Paris, and the American Tailors Are Offering Them Here for Those Who Want to Indulge in the One-Piece Frock or the Se_para;té Ski:t With a Variety of Blouses, as the Wash Blouse Has Lcaped Into Fashion Via the Smart Women Who Lead Revolutions—These Jackets Are Short, Are Held In at the Hips, Are Full:Qver the Shoulders, in Soft or Strong Colors. BEIGE CLOTH WITH PANEL FORMING CAPE, EMBROIDERED AND LINED WITH BLACK. | color was missed in the straw, it was added in the ribbon, The rainbow bands that the flappers have worn here for | pelling fabric to substitute for it in the several months are not mneglected in Paris. Ribbon in any shade is used for | printed tissues arerevived, as they are large wired designs at the side of th- crown. This fashion is followed F .. age of metal has not passed. vands | Cloche hats of straw have brown of satin ribbon that end in immense rolls, ang®s and squares at the side. Much of the straw is open in its m a cool contrast to the suede. turbans are substituted for brimmed hats the front is usually in the Russian manner, pointed, the fabric closely drawn. Smart women are not refusing [to know about collars for every these turhans because they have been |hour of her waking life. worn before. Here and there is a tendency toward crepe de chine. This fabric was discon- tinued after a year of almost exasperat- i the revival of fanciful neckwear is | the neckline than in the fashion for When | tissues in turbans, for it enters more ! one woman may CREAM VENETIAN ACE. here. It is more notable in Pari in America. Usually it takes vear to accept any well established French fashion. but there may be a speeding up of the passage of th idea across the Atlantic for the rea son that, as a race, we like Paris need not persuade. It is true at the present writing t if a woman wis to pull her lar white collar out over the coat collar she can do it with the air of an apostle. She has the consciousness that she is in the forefront of movement. 1f the fashion pers will have the pleasure of m hard line of dark cloth fragile flesh which has been t! agal gracious eight for several wherever women have been gathered. BY taste for these bri ting | hues you may have feit necessity | to suppress it heretofore.- Now can wear them almost as freely you wish with impunity. 8till there are limits even season of color madne: solid massing of red in or wrap is avoided in save on the Roif course, or Where & outdoors forms one’s background. ing popularity. Milliners do not seem you to have found any better or more com- draped turban. Some of the metal im- cspecially important in gowns. The * * 1T is more important for women to | realize the important change In vitally into their everyday life. Where want a formal hat she wants for ceremonial occasions, It is not easy to speak of the change with absolute authority, but it puts one on safe ground to EFFICIENT HOUSEKEEPING BY LAURA KIRKMAN. Several of my column readers have, of minced canned or fresh chicken. written to ask me how artichokes, Swiss chard and Brussels sprouts are cooked.. “I want to know before planting some of these things In my garden,” says one letter. Any of these vegetables may be-used with the fol- lowing menu as the “green vegetable” mentioned: Lamb Loin Chops New Potatoes Green Vegetable Coftee Berry Shortcake Bofled Artichokes.—Cut off stem of the artichoke close to the leaves, ré- move outside bottom leaves, trim, and cut off one Inch from top of leaves. ‘With a sharp knife remove choke, then tie the artichoke with a string to keep its shape. Soak one-half hour in cold water, drain and cook thirty to fifty minutes if the French arti- choke, and boil forty to fifty minutes if the Jerusalem artichoke, in salted water to cover. Drain, remove string and_serve with Bechamel or Hol- landajse sauce. In eating, the leaves are drawn out separately with the fingers, and dipped in the sauce, the fleshy ends, only, being eaten. Arti- chokes may also be cut in quarters, boiled, drained and served with sauce bernaise. Mutton generally accom- panies them in the menu when served in this way. Stuffed Artichokes.—Prepare and cook as directed above, having them slightly underdone. Then fill whh the following chicken stuffing: Cook to-j gether ome-half cup of stale bread- crumbs, one-half cup of milk and two tablespoons of butter: Remove from range and add -one: egg-white beaten stiff, a pinch each of salt, nut- meg and pepper, and two-thirds cup lnuoan‘n-wu‘uuuw. Bake for one-half hour in a moderate | oven, basting three times with an ordinary thin white sauce. Serve hot with more hot white sauce pour- ed over and around. Boiled Brussels Sprouts.—Remove | wilted leaves and soak ten minutes | in cold water. Then cook till easily pierced with a fork in salted boiling water to cover. Drain and-serve with an ordinary white sauce, or simply without a sauce. Scalloped Brussels Sprouts—Cook till tender, as above directed, and turn into a baking dish. Now dice enough celery tc make one-and-one-half cups of it when cut up, and cook these celery pieces in three tablespoonfuls | of melted butter for two minutes. | Add three tablespoonfuls of flour and | cne-and-one-half cups of hot milk. | When_thickened slightly, turn this| mixture into the baking dish with the cooked sprouts. Cover all with buttered breadcrumbs and bake in a hot oven till the orumbs are brown. Serve hot. Swiss Chard.—Cook one peck of washed Swiss chard in boiling salted water to barely cover, and when ten der drain it well and chop it finely. Now melt two tablespoonfuls of but- ter or hacon fat. and one teaspoon of chopped raw onion and let cook for three minutes, stirring constantly. Then also add two. tablespoonfuls of | garment. The all-red hat is less in fine cracker crumbs or one-and-one-|favor than the hat that shows half tablespoonfuls of flour, ome-half | wreaths or garlands of brilliant cher- teaspoon of salt and one cup of either | riea. soup stock or canned chicken or con-| All red, in shades of cherry or rose somme soup. -Add.the cooked.chard |or even in crimsons and scarlets, is to this mixture, and when once more | essayed for evening, and paler shades, heated through serve. Garnish with|including all the rose hues froi day- break pink to American beauty, and AN ALMOST ENDLESS AMOUNT OF STITCHING IN RED THREAD ADORNS THIS WHITE LINEN FROCK, WHICH 1S TRIMMED WITH NARROW CHERRY RIBBON. one wears it in city streets it is usu- ally in the guise of trimming for some otherwise somber or neutral i { GOLDEN BROWN CREPE COAT TRIMMED WITH WHITE Restraint Needed in Wearing Red ANNE RITTENHOUSE. Are you taking advantage of the| present vogue for red—red and t other colors that are spread at the top of the rainbow? It you are possessed of an innate BAND OF THE FROCK BENEATH HAS A WIDE COLLAR | TO_MATGH THE BAND ON THE C(OAT. ck rose erings where ed the dark rich in the sketel wh | tower wot frock if done stead of in ng we that cc s slenderness aist and Je at was once regarded as an essential to a good figure en the imaginatic Women kly . beginning 0 hanker af! portunity to look th the, waist. They arg is opportunity, at least in like, the vne shown, ng ning the bod but by er and le le slig waist You may before the tendency of French maker 1o finish wrists of t ribbons tied in little bows. You may even have take advantage of this in simple trick (Copyrl Sweetbread Croguettes. salted for twenty two sweetbreads Boil in water minutes of Throw pairs them into cold water for.a few minu then remove the skins }and little pipes. Cat them into dice and add one-half a box of mushrooms. Put one large tablespoontui ‘of butter in a saucepan, and when it bubbles add & tablespoonful of flour. Cook well, and add one gill of cream or soup stock. €ook and add the sweet- breads and mushrooms. Heat well, take from the fire and add the beaten volks of two eggs. When cool, form into croguettes, roll in beaten egk and cracker crumbs, and fry in hot lard. Ginger Crisps. Cream oae-balf a cup of butter With one-half a.cup of sygur, add one of molasses, one teaspoonful gach powdered cippamon and nutmeg, o teaspoonful of salt, tWo teaspooritul of baking powder and flolr encugh t make.a rather stiff dough, Roll thin, cut out with's cutter and bake in & quick oven.