Subscribers enjoy higher page view limit, downloads, and exclusive features.
LONG LINES AND FINE FABRICS BY ANNE nmnnofiysn. Menu for a Day. BREAKFAST. Orange Juice in Glasses Cereal with Cream Hot Wheat Cakes with Sirup iFried Eggs Coftee LUNCHEON {What has Paris done with our raist-lines? .ave our waist-lines gone back to normal; or have they gone several degrees lower? Aregirdleswideand decorative, or so they insinuate themselves about our waists in the form of mere inch-wide strips? And what does our silhouette do then, poor thing? The answer — the answer to every question in regard to Fall fashions—is now at your news- dealer’s in the OCTOBER Fall Fashions Number PARIS, October 1, 1921.—When satin, stamped with bright colors, is brocaded lavishly with gold, and made into a gown trimmed with bands of mink and furthermore edged with gold it seems as If the dress- makers of Paris were “gilding re- fined gold” or “painting the lily.” And in truth there has been a good deal of “lily painting” In the mak- ing of the clothes for autumn. Vel- vets that we might consider rich enough in their own texture and colorful enough in one tone are print- ed in brilliant designs. Brocades are enriched by pearling of beads. The important thing, of course. is the result. If this sort of thing can be done without producing an_effect that is merely ostentatious well and good. If the simplicity needed to carry out the line of the frock can be presetved there IS no more rea- son to rail against these gold and fur-trimmed satins and velvets than against the gowns of the Italian Renaissance, studded with precious stones, wrought with gold, strewn with pearls, but still almost classic in_purity of line. Molyneux is one of the dressmak- who has been successful in handling rich fabrics richly trimmed. The popularity that this dress- maker has had with American women this summer has been because there was “nothing to leave off.” Also Molyneux's clothes have been cut on long, severe Anglo-Saxon lines. It is quite as important to know the pecu- liarities of figure of the American woman as to know her taste. She may admire a frock she sees worn a French mannequin, admire it immensely, only to find that she her- self looks grotesque in the same type of frock. That is always a wet blan- ket to one's enthusiasm. It makes the American woman in Paris yearn for | the home town dressmaker, even the dre ker that comes in by the day and gets her ideas from pattern mag- At least she knows what you or what makes you look like a figure in Mrs. Jarley's wax works. Molyneux has made something of a study of the requirements, both by way of taste and of figure, of the American and English woman. More- * Cabbage Salad Bread and Butter Sandwiches Stewed Parsnips Cocoa DINNER| Cream of Tomato Soup Crackers Sweet Pickles Roast Veal, Brown Gravy Baked Sweet and White Potatoes Baked Apples Pig¢ Cheese Coftee Did You Ever Wonder? Manufacturers probably have good reasons for these things, but don't you sometimes wonder: Why the felt insoles of bedroom slippers are always so sketchily past- (e, T they come out after a few wearings, often working out of shape so that it is_impossible to reattach them? Why makers of corsets always con- tinue the lace or embroidery trimming at the top over the eyelets so that it has to b pierced by the lacer point in lacing? This sometimes is really difficult and always tears the lace or embroidery. Why manufacturers of women's tai- lored shirt waists do not make them | S0 that they may be sold according to arm length as well as bust size? Men' shirts are marked according to sl length as well as collar size. What a boon to long-armed and short-armed women this would be! Why manufacturers of expen children’s underwear do not charge little more and go to the expense of having the buttons sewed on secur: Why stockings aren’t usually graded | ¢ according to length of leg as w length of foot? Why hat frames are made in differ- ent sizes and marked so that one can tell in number of inches the head size of the hat one buys? HOME ECONOMICS. | BY MRS. ELIZAY MOLYNEUX'S FROCK OF SATIN STAMPED IN BRIGHT COLORS AND BROCADED WITH GOLD. IT IS TRIMMED WITH A BAND OF MINK EDGED WITH GOLD BRAID AT EACH SIDE. H KENT. clever use of the hoop idea in many of his new things. ed to the soles of the slippers that| Dear Juniors: A-letter from Marvin Sweet asks me if there can be a Chemistry Division in the Junior | Travel Club. I say there can, and it seems to me there is a dandy chanoce to travel into the world right around us if we know something about chemistry. Who wants to join the | Chemistry Division of the. Junior Travel Club? How many are inter- ested in that subject? Let me hear ! from you. There is a_chemical action of some | kind in the fall of the year when the I leaves drop from the trees. Iam told the leaves help prepare the ground for next vear, because of some kind f this action, and I am going to study about that when I get along 1 school. Who knews what that ac- tion is? What makes the doorbel ring when you push the button? We clectricity. But what was the 1 action in the battery that 1o electrieity? We talk on a - and [ guess the same an- v the voice is carried. worked out ma- for measuring a man’s pulling nd just how much power he distance. They a to me the r wround us. But wh ned everything seems So rptians s t knowledge of chem mix pois and color )8 knew something about those things, too. The part I think I am go- ing to like about chemistry when I | come to_study is the signe they REG. U.S. PATENT OFFICE MYSTERY OF MANY THINGS EXPLAINED IF you STUDY CHEMISTRY AT SCHOOL WOMAN’S PAGE aqu “Corsetless” Figure now in fashion is the supple, willowy figure of long graceful lines. Only the highest art can give this effect. New scientific designs, approved by phy- sicians, have attained it to perfection in Madame Pfeil Corsets. The patented security front tongue suppott,is found in no other corset. Whether your figure is slender or Junoesque, we can accentuate its with 2 Madame Pfeil. Prove this to your sacisfaction at our expense. Lansburgh & Bro.. 420-30 7th St. N.W., Washington, D. C. e Pfei Lace Front Corset YOU'RE SICK, BILIOUS, HEADACHY, over, he has the loveliest mannequin | The sketch shows something typl- named Hebe—and she is|cal of Molyneux—typlcal in richness of material and simplicity of line. It -rican women have liked Moly- (is of satin stamped in bright colors x's skirts, which have been full|and brocaded in gold with trimming and usually long. He inclines to the |of bands of mink edged with gold ght line and still he makes ' braid. ¢ when explained. | n There is the word galvanized which |Years. J. Fenimore Coop {comes from the name Galvani, the house Izaw on the Boston Post Road i who discovered galvanic elee- | Wrote the “Leather Stocking and volts ccmes from the | Which all boys like to re <o advanced the |called the first real historical Amer- So that does not |ican novels. His birthd Al tember 15, but I Junior Travel Club members | thing in the papers about it. may have a lot of “chemistry bugs’ |lived when western and if so let me hear from you and (and New York tell me what experiments you have | “backwoods.” His father owned many | de and how they came out. jacres in New York sta nd he Tn one of my letters I asked about |Ctarted the town of Cooperstown in Emerson and J. Feni- |that State. for different things. Tt all looks e I « a secret code to me and all bays | thorne, and he became pastor of a Some of the names seem |famoug church in Boston fter that | { but like the chemistry ccame a widely known lecturer. | F He lived at Concord for neariy y L] No odds how bad your liver, stomach or bowels; how much your head aches, how miserable and un- comfortable you are from constipa- of all the sour bile, foul gases and constipated matter which is produc- ing ‘the misery. A Cascaret to- night will straighten yon up by morning—a 10-cent box.keeps your head clear, stomach sweet, liver and bowels regular for months. ? o hard after tion, indigestion, - biliousness—you always get relief with Cascarets. They cleanse your liver and bowels ATTENTION, LADIES Apple Jelly With Variations. This i *a you should give Apple jelly is the easiest to make | Hawthorne, 5 T Atarpa T havliE A e hon o rtane | more Cooper. Hawthorne was born |, A “sticker” came in a letter from used " these” pres s faithfully for orsat on the Fourth of July. 1804, which is } “Jud” Farnsworth and he asked me apples have their individual lavors;|yworth remembering. His two books. | if I knew what a “hautboy” is? Who S they are very wonderful. v Them, $1.00 Each years, skin Musele Cream—Eradicates wrinkles. Cream—For blackheads. Hair Toni Sealp_Food For Sale at Drg. ake the hair grow. s dandruff. Devt. Stores and “A tube in the home is worth two in the store” Cleans, polishes and Food—Feeds and whitens sunburn ~ and MRS. COON'S OFFICE, 1405 Eye St. N.W. protects the teeth perfectly. An Egg Shampoo. The woman who realizes the value {of an egs shampoo for her scalp must eventually have beautiful hair. There { are few treatments more effective, than this for beautifying and improv- {ing the hair. Some people will tell you that it is necessary to use three to six eggs fori an egg shampoo. This is a_foolish. | extravagant waste in these expensive days. One egg is sufficlent for any ordinary head of hair, two eggs for even the thickest hair. Beat up the egs until it is quite | light, volk and white together. Rub| this into the scalp and cover the hair | as_thoroughly as possible. | Let it dry in. 1t will take thirty minutes or more | and it may feel rather sticky and| messy. The egg dries over the scalp and absorbs all the oil and dirt and grease and dandruff so that when you begin your shampoo you have no trouble in making the scalp abso- lutely clean. Every one knows that it is impossible to wash all the dan- druff from the scalp with a plain soap and_water shampoo. Wash oft the egg with warm water and any good mild_soap. castile or tar for preference. Use soap over the Rinse with water a little hotter than what you washed with and rinse again several times. It is not so hard to rinse the soap from the hair when you have first used an egg. If you can dry your hair in the sun so much the better. You will have a beautifully clean scalp and soft glossy air which will be benefited by the sulphur in the egg. M. W. T.: M. G. K.; F.—When the |SErving the same purpose in shoulders and back are too stout, it shows the whole body is overweight and general reduction will correct this. Exercises will help, but reduc- tion is the real solution. Deep breath- ing, which fills the lower part of the lungs, will exercise all the muscles of the back and consume the surplus fat on the ribs and shoulders. For the bust formula, send a stamped ad- dressed envelope. ‘Worried.—Consult the doctor about this oppressive sensation. It is quite possible that you merely have indi- gestion, which will often mislead peo- ple into thinking they have heart trouble. Reader; tSenographer.—If you are between twenty and twenty-four vears of age your weight is correct: if older, add_one-half of a pound for cach year. Yeast cakes are not fat- tening in themselves, but they may be helping other foods fatten, since scalp at least twice and three times if you have been using an oil tonis. Letters should be brief and written in ink. for over 75 years has relied upon Gouraud’s % Oriental Cream to keep the skin and complex- in perfect condition THIS 18 oo the new preventive of ex- cessive pCT!PIl’ltIOn that is — guaranteed harmless —will mot staln skin or elothing — removes all bedily odere It o the desl toller necomiry, Sl ¢ ieading drag and depariment tores-- only & few can be ancwered here. Difficulties in the Way. Writes a spofled woman: «“I think you are entirely right in your stand against corsets, but there are difficulties in the way of putting your advice into effect, at least for one who has been wearing corsets for ten years, though it may be an easy matter for a young girl who has not yet adopted corsets. “For instance, you advise wearing for the support or foundation of one’s clothing ‘such a waist as is com- monly worn by children everywhere. The Ferris waist, I assume. I've tried it, and while I admit its comfort, still it allows my stoméch, or, more Prop- erly, my abdomen, to protrude rather prominently and spoil my appearance. Please, Dr. Brady, tell me if there is any sort of garment which will re- strain or reduce me just a_bit there without being harmful. How about the elastic girdles? I bought one containing four steels, two fore and two aft, then had cold feet and put it away in a drawer. “P've worn corsets twelve years, and when I wear none I feel fine, ex- cept for the difficurty mentioned. Twelve years of it would seem to be enough to spoil ulmost any woman. It taxes approximately ten years of artificial support with braces, casts, crutches, arch props, knee springs, corsets, belly bands, chest protectors, brassieres. liver pads, shoulder braces and the like to suppress or smother reason, instinct or horse sense which assures normal individuals that no such support is necessary. Once upon a time, when men were more gullible than they are now, and quack doctors were more brazen, a good many people were persuaded to purchase, at_a prodigious price, a contraption called an’ “electric belt,” which as- sured wonderfully strengthening and invigorating effects. Abdomens normally do protrude in healthy persons. The abdomen I8 a vitally important organ of respira- tion. It pumps air in and out of the lungs. A healthy woman breathes with her abdomen more than with her chest. Chest breathing is an abnor- mality, an artificiality, forced upon the civilized woman by her vicious custom of interfering with natural abdominal breathing. The Interfer- ence of even a loose corset or other support or appliance Impalrs breath- ing. but also fmpairs abdominal and pelvic circulation, and thus accounts most of the non-infectious pelvic orders, irregularities and diseasen irls and women Thousands of % of dysmenorrhen, \rregular or painful periods, are completely cured In & fow monthe by the mere resump- ton of ahdominal broathing, even when conditionn have been e [ vated by the use of varlous Injurious “femnte ' recent fashion in en'n ALLIFe haw hosn toward prom.- n -l-::r -Inlut ¥ n . point ..l‘!-m I the now il fasiioned pointed shoe " happily \ Personal Health Service By WILLIAM BPADY, M. D Noted Physic:an and Author (Signed letters pertaining to personal haalth and hygiene. not to disease diagnosls or treat ment, w.il be answered by Dr. Brady if a stamped, sel Owing to'the large number of letters received. | 0 reply can be tions. Address Dr. William Brady, in care of The Sta they provide vitamines and keep the system in better working condition. ldressed envelope is inclosed e to queries not conforming to instrue on a woman's foot, or the narrow French heel, which makes the foot look like a top-heavy canal boat. A little exercise, just a reasonable amount of daily exercise, will support the abdomen and “restrain” it more effectively than any. appliance ever in- vented. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. A Man’s Weight. How heavy should a man seventy inches tall and thirty years old be? I believe a man of that height and age who weighs over 200 pounds (fat, not muscle) cannot be perfectly healthy. Excessive fat must be a dis- ease, the result of various defects or ills. How wrong am I? (B. H) -Answer—You are not at all wrong. ‘The ideal or average weight for the man would be 168 pounds stripped. He may carry excess weight up to a total of 185 pounds and still get by with an insurance company, for in- stance. But when he mounts above the 190-pound mark he is headed for calamity in the form of heart, arterial or nephritic lesions. His excess weight is slacker flesh—overeating and lack of daily exercise. It is popular, for a little while, and then pitiable. The man you describe is past the danger zone. He needs vigorous treatment— diet and exercise. Somebody ought to treat him rough. Chicken Pot Roast. Select a young fowl and use, if pos- sible, a porcclain-lined or aluminum pot large enough to take it whole. Prepare the chicken as for roasting, dredging it thoroughly with flour, but rubbing the seasonings in thoroughly. A clove of garlic passed over the skin gites a delicate flavor. Melt two tablespoons of butter in the pot and put the chicken_in to brown, turning it constantly. In about fifteen min- utes, when a nice brown all over, add not more than half cup of water to the gravy, cover closely and cook over a moderate fire. Watch carefully,'for the water cooks away and must be re- newed frequently. Baste every fiye minutes and keep turning the chick- en. Allow about fifteen minutes to the pound and serve piping hot with a gravy made from the drippings in the pan. This chicken will be more moist and tender than oven-roasted chicken. Stuffing should not be used Banana Fritters. Make a batter of one cup of warm. sweet milk, one heaping teaspoonful ifted with two spoonful of sugar ful of snlt. Boat all well to tl smooth and glossy, di; banana into the batter an smoking hot fat in large and fry like douwhnuts don ooler. Drain on paper, with butter and sumnr. Any ‘n of frult may be used In place of bananas ther un- slices of drop Into that of red or white crab apples is perhaps the most delicately acid and suitable to serve with meats. From the point of view of food values, all airly rich in fuel ng made so largely of sugar containing pectin, which counts s a carbohydrate because it is changed by ripening or cooking from an insoluble d compound in the green fruit to a solub] substance like the carbohydrates, and utri- tion. Jellies made from fruits are therefore useful to supply heat and energy, but do not furnish protein to build tissue. The fruit juice con- tains acids helpful in digestion. To make apple jelly, wash apples, cut off stems and blossom ends, and cut in halves or cover with water and cook slowly in | a covered granite dish mash a jelly bag without squeezing. Mea ure the juice, heat an equal quan tity of sugar, boil the juice twenty minutes, add the-hot suga minutes, skim, and pour into clean glasses. in a sunny window, cover with melted parafiin_wax and store in a cool, dry | place. Any fruit juice not jelly by itself—strawberry, rasp- | berry, peach or cherry—may be to flavor apple jelly. made by boiling hal of fresh mint in the juice and strain- ing them out when the jelly is pour- ed off. a small bought from a drugg rose geranium may be used instead of mint to give an unusual flavor. Spiced apple jelly may be made by boiling spices in the j quarters. ' Just until soft; and drain overnight through boil five Let stand twenty-four hours uch as would Mint jelly is a dozen sprays It may be colored green with | quantity of fruit green,| A spray of | (Copyright, 1921.) Made With Oranges. Orange Charlotte—Mix one cup of sugar with one cup of orange juice, a little of the grated peel and thc juice cf one lemon. Add half a rack gelatin which has been soaked and d.ssolved, and when cool, but not set, fold in the stiflly beaten whites of five eggs and turn into a mold lined with orange sections. Serve with boil- ed custard, Orange Cake. with the yolks of four eggs and add the grated rind and juice of half a lemon. Add the stiffiy beaten whites of the eggs alternately with a cup of flour sifted with a teaspoon of baking powder. Bake this in two layers. Put together with sliced and sweetened oranges and cover with icing flavored with orange. Orange Cream.—Mix the juice of three oranges and the grated rind of ~ne with a cup of sugar. Add the juice of one lemon and the yolks of four eggs well beaten and cook until it thickens, stirring constantly. Add a package of gelatin which has been Soaked and dissolved, mold, chill and serve with cream. Orange Whip—Whip a pint of cream. Whip the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth and add gradually a cup of sugar. Mix carefully and pour over cut-up oranges sweetened and flavored. Orange Tarts.—Mix the juice of two large oranges with the grated rind of one and the juice of half a lemon rub- bed smooth with a teaspoon of corn- starch. Add three-quarters of a cup of sugar and two tablespoons of melt- ed butter. Cook until smooth, stirring constantly. Bake in a lower crust, add a meringue,and brown. Orange Fritters.—Divide oranges into sections, dip in fritter batter, fry in deep fat until brown, drain, sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve. etttk Prices realized on Swift & Co. sales of carcass beef in Washington, D. C., for week ending Saturday. October 1, 1921. on ship- ments sold out, RANGED from 8 cents to 19 cents per pound and AVERAGED 12.72 cents ner ponnd:—Advertisement. cups to the poun digestible { ce as desired. | Beat a cup of sugar and bananas | There are 200 varieties of tea and over 2000 tea flavors. Only in Tetley’s can you be sure of the true Orange Pekoe taste. TETLEY'S Makes good TEA a certainty Our century of m—blendins_hu taught us how to get that wonderful Pekoe flavor, fr:funu and strength. ‘The Housa “The Scarlet Letter, 1y read. He also wrote for bird and | { outdoor magazines and that is what | ‘(nl sted me most. ! born 1503, a v | | LISTEN, WORLD! BY ELSIE ROBINSON EXHMIBIT D- The SMILING NAG ® We've studied nagging far too lit- i tle. So ignorant are we on this sub- tject that some of the most confirmed | naggers would indignantly deny that ! they are such simply because they . do not use the well known varlety. ! There are really dozens of varieties, ' of which the following four are about the worst: fanibit A—This form of nagging is known to every one. In it the nagger induiges in sharp yelps, snaps and other explosions. Sie may be dealt with by yelping louder or clearing | out—preferably the latter. | Exhibit B—This is a_harder propo- sition. It is the weeping nag. This includes few nolsy demonstrations but works its deadly purpose by a| continual dribble of woe. The woe is seemingly not in the least related t the subject under dispute which may. for instance, be a night out with the ! | boys. No reference is made to the boys as the teardrops gently fall, but | | a_continual moan arises on the death, | of love, lost youth, homesickness, the | lack of a_new hat and other fatal; discases. This form is often accom: panied by fainting fits or “speils. Exhibit C—This is the frozen si-| |lence nag. ither tears, tempests | nor terrible glances accompany this. You are ignored. lgnored! Ignored! | After one hour of such treatment you | would willingly welcome the riotous | clamor of a lynching mob—anything u 'k the aim. Exhibit D—This is the most terri- ! | ble torm of nagging. It is known as the smiling nag. In it the abused one becomes a little ray of sunshine. There is nothing more unnerving than to have some one going around being a little ray of sunshine when it's time the sun had set. You are left absolutely defenseless. You must bear not only the burden of your sin but a most unwelcome burden of gratitude for being forgiven, when you never asked for forgiveness. The little ray of sunshine often adds prayer to her beaming. Prayers as a private conversation between oneself | and God is most.admirable, but when used as household discipline is more iriitating than the hives. 1f you must nag, use Exhibit A. But why nag? Who gave you the right, anyway? etley e of Seven Gables” and|Can answer that? have been wide- | boy is that? Or is it a boy Emerson_was | P. S—Now don’t forget. before Haw- hear from the chemistry What kind of a RUSSELL BURKE, The Travelog Boy. Let us “bugs. DeFirx Ewvery genuine De Luxe Bed- spring bears the trade-mark on the side rail of the spring. Look for i:—it is your guarantee 9 The Bedspring LUXURIOUS Avoid that Spinal Distortion Continual sleeping on the ordi- nary woven wire, coil or national spring often throws the spinal column out of alignment. The result may be sleeplessness, back- ache, indigestion, acute nervous- ness and even graver functional disorders. The victim of such ills usually seeks a remedy in medicine, when the real relief lies in the selection of a good bedspring— the Rome De Luxe. The Rome De Luxe Bedspring is scientifically designed to really rest the body by allowing it to relax completely. The spring gently flows about the body, sup- porting the ““in’” as well as ““out’ curves, without undue pressure, even onthemost prominentparts. The Rome De Luxe Bedspring never sags into a valley, thus two persons of unequal weight can lie comfortably side by side, each on his own level. Examine the Rome De Luxe at yourdealer’s. The more carefully you compare the Rome De Luxe with any bedspring at any price, the more certainly you will rec- ognize its superior, luxurious comfort. It is always finished in Rome Gray enamel and on the side railappearsthe Rome Quality Trade Mark which identifies all Rome products. Look for it—it is your guarantee. The De Luxe is interchangeable — fits either wood or metal beds. Southern-Rome Company, Baltimore, Maryland Note:—Don’t accept a substitute. If your dealer cannot supply you wrth a Rome Quaisty De Luxe Bedspring. write us and we will refer vou to one whe can £ AN —FOR THE BOWELS