Evening Star Newspaper, September 4, 1921, Page 28

VEIL OF TULLE DRAPED OVER THE HAIR, CAUGHT WITH SILVER ROSEBUDS AND ALLOWED TO HAN G AT ONE SIDE. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. E chief objection raised by those who feel convinced that the bouffant skirts of the Second Empire will never be revived in the days of the Third Re- public is that skirts so bouffant take up too much room in these days when women pack themselves into motor cars, dance in crowded restaurants, play golf and tennis, and spend weeks out of every year either cramped .up in a stateroom or in a hotel suite which at best would not accommodate more than a half dozen of these bal- looning skirts. That is, of course, if you belong to a family that has already made,! But! but has not yet lost, its fortune. for the rest—those of us who have lost or never had any great favor with the god of gold—the enormous skirt of the Second Empire has more obvious and more disconcerting de- fects. Imagine it in the subway, in any office, behind a counter where saleswomen have to be sylphs to pass each other, even in our Planked-shad silhouette!- on the golf links, the tennis court. in the rush hour in New York's Wall street! And yet there are oceasions. For instance, when one is wed one has half a church aisle and more all to one’s self. There is room for the crinoline that supports a skirt eight yards around and there is time for the gliding graceful walk that ladies in Engenie’s time used to regard as ingdispensable to gentility. So go ahead with your Empress Eu- genle wedding frock if you feel in- ¢lined. ‘There are many of them in the making for early autumn brides in Paris and the best dressmakers have stamped them with their ap- proval. It is the one dress in any woman’s wardrobe that may be chosen without the sordid question of later serviceability attached. No one ever hopes to wear a wedding dress as it is again. If you are sentimentally in- clined you will stow it away between sheets of dark blue tissue paper—and if you are not, you will find material | times used, though not so often as enough in its spacious petticoat for |one would expect in a season when two or three ordinary frocks or negliges. But don't' imagine that in going |or high headdress in the back would back to the long, full-skirted wed- ding frock we have gone back to|act of “Carmen.” the hideous custom of wearing a high stiff collar to the bridal altar! Even the most prudent have ceased [ most attractive way that has yet present ; Imagine it| dress and the others made in Empress Eugenie spirit are made for the bride of 1921. If she wears stays at all they are of tricotine, and she takes 28 great pains to see that every bit of her underthings are flat and bulkless as it she intended to do an Empire frock, for the Pirectoir still reigns in the French underwear. i The bridal veil to be worn with this frock is of tulle formed into a cap @eld in by a bandeau and a spray of ofange blossoms at the left side, with fold upon fold of the tulle spreading out about the frock, but terminating almost a foot above the bottom of the skirt. { One might think that in this day when the Spanish lace shawl has come in for such Interesting adaptation there would be a revival of antique white lace bridal vells. And usually the_matter is begun that way. It is quite agreed between mother and daughter that an antique lace veil will be used—an heirloom, if possible, but when one,is a parvenye this is not always possible. However, is it not possible to wear some one's heir- loom veil when one can pay the price? Then- come consultations with the dressmaker. There are sketches for the bridal gown, and as these sketches form themselves it becomes Spparent that least in the mind of the designer a tulle veil shall take the place of the old lace. Still, that is entirely for the bride ‘and her mother to decide. But some time or other before the bride is actually packed off to be married that old lace vell is sidetracked for one of tulle. Purely and simply be- cause a fresh tulle is infinitely more becoming to most brides than antique lace. One looks younger, fresher, sweeter—dll that a bride is supposed to be and wants to look— tulle. One clever way of arranging the tulle veil adopted by one or two of the dressmakers in Paris is to place it cap-wise over the head, letting the edges come down over the eyes almost to the tip of the nose. The fullness is then caught over the left ear with a cluster of white roses and the long ends drop over the left shoul der to swing down the back and left ide. To be sure, the lace vell is some- black and white lace shawls are used 50 much In evening gowns. The ar- rangement of the veil over a comb hardly do—it would smack too much of bull-fight pageantry or the second SBomehow we must give the white lace veil an ailr of demureness, and this is not always easy. Perhaps the to rail at bare-necked, bare-armed !been devised is indicated in the sketch | brides, and as the present day bridal vells are arranged the arms and neck are partly covered. anyway. There Is a bridal dress that must have been the outcome of browsing back in the fashion books of 1852, though any bride of that decade would have started and stared at any bodice made to wear over so enormous a waistline. And that is really the most essential difference. The wedding where the vell bandeau of pearls hangs face. is suspended from earls 'and " cluster of at either side of the * ¥ ¥ ¥ THE ‘business of collecting a trous- seau comes out a little differently in France than with Americans, be- cause usually the French bride's mother has all of her fingers in the pie. Ideally considered, the French bride is too young and inexperiemced A BRIDESMAID'S FROCK OF BLUE CREPE DE CHINE WITH DYED TO MATCH. IT IS WORN WITH A LARGE BLACK HAT. BE PLACED ON THE HAT AND AT THE WAIST. E Al to possess the worldly wisdom to|my dear Germaine thinks only pf select s0 complicated a matter as a |love. i8|to bother her ‘head over anything very nice if the mother SEPTEMBER 4, Bring 'New M NNE RITTENHOUSE Thinks Bouffant Styles Are Well for Wedding Gowns, But Not for Other Dresses, Being Imp_racticable in Metor Cars, Street Cars Moreover, 1 y: “Ah, ACE SES She is too filled with romance prot as clothe: So there is Members of the American Legion who visited the battleflelds of Europe | are now on their way home. The tour of the former American soldiers ended in Belgium, Monday, after they had visited the former Belgian war front. Maj. John G. Emery, national commander of the American Legion, 18 heading the party, which numbers about thirty. They sailed from Havre, France, on Friday. Officials of the Veterans’ Bureau say that the indications of the success of the “clean-up” campaign, being con- ducted throughout the nation, are shown in the first reports of the squads_operating in the fourth dis- trict. Thousands of service men have been interviewed by these squads. National Capital Post, No. 127, Vet- erans of Foreign Wars, met Friday evening. August 26, at 1006 E street, Two posthumous members ‘were elected and placed on the honor f the post. The names were Howard and Frederick J. Fegan, both killed in action during the world war> Frederick J. Fegan was a member of the 3d District of Columbia Drum Corps of the National Guard and the only bugler from the regiment to be killed. The body of Fegan 15 expected to arrive in Wash- ington this week. Plans to take charge of the body have been made by Bugler Sergt. Henry Loveless, who ; served with Fegan, and requested that National Capital Post participate in the burial services. The grievance committee announced that cqnnllllul have been presented in writing, and would be placed be- fore the encampment.. A resolution ‘was adopted providing that all ex- service men, who are on the eligible list’ for appol ent to the govern- ment service, shall be certified ahead of all non-service men or women on ths same register, and, further, that whenever an ex-service man is cert! fled together with any other eligibles the lgpulnunl officer shall be in duty bound to appoint an ex-service man, and as long as there are ex-service men on the eligible list of any regis- shall be ap- VETERANS OF GREAT WAR A Column Devoted to the Interests of the Men Who Defended the Nation on Land and Sea. ‘with Commander George L. Tait, pr l { _When ’mm-nin-h-ehh( and the election position he has held or, in case such position is abolished, to fill such other position to which he might be trans- ferred. Provision also is made in-the resolutions that any ex-service man who has held a position for six months or longer and shall have re- ceived a permanent appointment shall be rated with sufficlent rating to retain his position. ‘The transportation committee an- nounced it has completed its sched- ule for the encam; make that arrangem nt with the rail. elected to membeérshi rlan Johnson, Bernard S. Bladen, Val N. Brandon, Joseph M. Vallin and Ed- ward G. McCaudlis! The entertal ment committee announced that plans for a good time are under way and | Division in the world sented plans for a semi-military ball to be held on Armistice day. Snyder-Farmer_Post, No. can Legion, at Hyattsville, was rep- resented at the state convention of the American Legion in Baltimore, August 30-31 by Post Commander John N. Brooks, W. Galt scer, delegates, and Robert G. Cartee, secret: e: Keyworth, Lansdale G'l;& 3, Ameri- nes M. Edlavitch, 5. ac to the delegation. After a spirited contest the D secured the election of J. M. Edla. vitch as member of the state execu- tive committee, and J. N. Brooks as delegate to Commander Brooks remained in Balti- more the balance of the week to take part in the Gen. John J. Pershing_has joined the National Press Club Post, No. of the American Legion. %o the commander of the post he ment and will | accepted an invitation to become a road authorities.. The following wers | Fao menvel dus. He alse cXpressed C.|his good wishes for the the post. the 'national convention. reunion of Maryland's sol- dierp of the world war. 20, In a letter He alpo expressed success of Many former members of the 79th war, from thg will complete its proram at the next | District of Columbia, are in atten- Joint committee meeting to be _held Tuesday, September 6. The bod: jr.. national commander of the Amer- ican Legion at the time of his ac- cidental death at Indianapolis, Ind., in June, will not be interred in Ar- lington national cemetery, accor: ing to advices last week from the ly of Frederick W. Galbraith, Wi dan weel the 29th or The famous at the celebration of k" in ‘ednesday and Tuesda; - The gathering s a reunton of- the 79th or Lorraine Cross Division, and “Buddie timore, which opened will continue through Blue and_ Gray Rainbow Division is It is the first opportu- on. also ed. widow and brother of the late com- |nity since their demobilisation for the mander. Burial will be made at Spring Grove cemetery, Ohlo, where the body was placed temporary vault following the larg- the civil war. President Harding _ visits Birmingham, Ala,, in October, he will be attended by an homor g of 1,000 members of the American Le- glon, drawn each of the eighty posts of the state. Delegates from the Equality-Walter Reed Post, Veterans of to the annual encampment at Detroit, election of Robert G. Woodside as of Robert G. Parrott of this city, as judge advocate general. - The delegates were Instructed.in their votes at a meeting Thui night at Pythian gates are: ‘emple. The dele- T Capt. E. 8. Bettleheim, jr.; pL. B. , Jr.; Willlam G. Jamieson, A. A -Carley, Willlam Germain, Richard C Jones, Raymond Hunsche and Melvin Ryder. Hamil Densions, was slocted an honorary s, was honorary member of the post. A < 'oreign Wars, | of fand men of the National Guard unitss of Cincinnati, | Maryland, New Jersey and Virginia in a)to come together and for the citizen soldiers from the District of Colum- military funeral in America since | bja, Maryland and Pennsylvania, who trained at Camp Meade to meet again. The American Légion, through its national legislative ‘committee, has Secretary grant -the addressed .f communication to the of privilege of retirement to ‘War requesting him to the 3,000 seriously disabled emergency rs of the world war. ‘The privi- lege of retirement un three-fourths September 16, will vote for the re-|p: Marine disabled tiremen Army, Navy and by all emergency officers of the Navy Corps. Only who entered the Army for world war jce from the National Guard or | hot f the regular and Marine Corps icers mly those offic life -and who e seriously are denjed the right of rec it. / 3 . Several attempts have been made to ha; ess nn'l.bq::fiofl disabled - vor'lt- War legisiation speci- the Tetirem o offosre oF the emergency of - ‘by_both the American the -disabled emergency 0 ».bill | got no further than committees in the Sixty-sixth Congress, but reintroduced in the present Congress by Senator Bursum. in the Senate and Representa- tive Royal Johngon in the House, has been favorably reported from the Senate military affairs committee and is expected to receive a favorable re- port from the House military affairs committee. Regardless of what Congress may do on the bill when it reconvenes, officials of the American Legion in- sist that the Secretary of War already has authority to retire disabled emer- gency Army officers. In their letter to Secretary Weeks, they call atten- tion to section 10 of the original se- lective service act, approved May 18, 1917, which reads as follows: “All officers and enlisted men of the forces herein provided for, other than the regular Army, shall be in all re- spects on the same footing as to pay, allowance, and pensions as officers md.vlhxefl men of the correspond- ing grades and length of service in the regular Army. The legion’s letter to the Secretary, signed by Johm Thomas Taylor, vice .chairman of its national legislative com- mittee, says, in part “There are in this country today between 2,000 and 3,000 seriously dis- abled former emergency officers of the Army. not granted the right to retirement. Their average age is 33 years—10 years greater than the age of the average soldler. who served under their command. Under prei ent laws, these disabled officers can recelve from the veterans' bureau only a small compensation as com- pared to their service pay. As these officers, in addition to being consid- erably more advanced in years, have in very many cases family responsi bilities, have sacrificed~ professional or business careers and have lost their higher earning capacity, it is obvious that they need the retire- ment pay and privileges established by Congress for the other classes of officars. Many of these officers prior to this war served-for varying terms of years in the ranks, and by reason of ‘their disabilities are disqualified for further active service and have lost their professional careers, and receive no compensation whatsoever for their long service in the regular Army.’ p —— Every time we breathe, we draw thirty cubic inches of air into our lungs; supposing that we take fifteen breaths a minute for the twenty-four urs of the day, we use no less than 648,000 cubic inches. of air, which would weigh over thirty pounds. One day’'s, supply of air for one human heing’ would be sufficient to fill 1,126 two: ?uon cans; = years~ supply would welgh more than five tons. ’),‘rm these it ow nothing for me -to do but take the whole thing off her shoulders. All that she does is to go for occasional fittings after, I have made all arrangements with the dressmakers.” ‘Whether Germaine really is so car- ried off her feet by romance or not, true it is that every French mother Seems to think that to select her daughter’s trousseau is one of the pleasures of which she should mot be cheated. And she it is who often goes about with her head in a cloud. reliving her own bridal days and making ‘great incisions in her own dress allotment so that Germaine may lack nothing of the bridal trappings. Needless to say, when a girl mar- ries in America she usually has quite definite plans concerning what she wants and does ,not want in her trousseau. Her mother's suggestions seem childish. Mothers of marriage- able daughters cannot be expected— in their daughters’ opinions—to know how to go about the intricate. and delicate matter of selecting clothes for a bride of 1921. So it makes the result in trousseaux rather different in France and In America. And the young American woman would be guessing very badly if she supposed that the French mothers who seleqt their daughters' bridal clothes show any lack of wis- dom or any disposition to childlike simplicity in the selections they make. The Frenchwoman still buys pro- portionately more underthings than do most Americans, though she insists that since the war these things are different and that the present bride does not possess half as many articles of underwear as her mother did. Sometimes a certain color scheme is kept throughout the selction of these things. In one bride’s trousseau everything was in one or two soft shades of blue or in salmon pink, as being most becoming to her coloring. The only exceptions to this were some sets of fine white linen run with blue ribbons and a single black chiffon and lace nightgown. The bride's mother could not resist this. Negliges are possibly not so nu- merous as they were in antebellum trousseau, but they are always well thought of. Often when there is not an overabundance of funds the negli- ges are made at home with the aid ' QUEEN and the Like—Amerigan Girl's Trousseau Compared to the French—Latest Ways of Arranging the Briclal Veil—Lace Used for Many Years Being Replaced By Tulle. of a clever sewing woman, quite fre- quently out of laces and materials salvaged from some discarded frock. This of course means considerable fussing and scheming and adds just one more anxlety during those busy weeks fore the wedding. The American bride would perhaps think it was not quite worth all the trouble. Two - or three ready-made negliges taken fresh from the hangers of one of the shops may answer the purpose quite as well. But would any one nowadays at- tempt to simplify the matter in truly Eugenie fashion? For the Empress of the Second Empire never owned a dressing gown or neglige in_ her whole imperial career. In her scheme of things the time to dress thoroughly and completely for the day was when she got out of bed in the morning. Dressings after that consisted merely in changing from one frock to an- other, never in idling away an hour or so in the delicious indecision of a becoming neglige. To be sure, she had a linen affair with a hole in the middle that was placed over her shoulders when her hair was being dressed. We have met with that sort of thing at the hairdresser's ourselves and sometimes wondered, as we beheld ourselves in the glass, whether anything was ever more ingenfously concelved to make a woman look her worst than that, and whether perhaps some hairdresser would not attract more customers than he could manage if he concelved the idez of having a more becoming way of draping his customers when he arranged their hair. Eut apparently FEugenle never disturbed herself about it. Doubt- less it was a matter of principle with her. Once when her son had the measles, it is true, she needed a warm dressing gown while she sat beside his bed at night, and then she sent one of her ladies out to buy something. The lady came back with a cheap, ready-made dressing sack of red flannel, and the empress was en- tirely satisfied. So if that was the second empire mode in dressing gowns, it is no won- der that we go elsewhere for inspira- tion, and frankly keep our lounging robes and negliges that smack of the orient. REGUS PAT.OFF. TGP CO. Simplify Your Shopping! : Buy Now! ““Queen Quality’’ authentic styles for the new, season are ready in complete array at author- ized agencies throughout the country. " Buy Right! “just shoes.”’ Buy Confidently! A quarter-century’s experience and reputation are bound up in the maker’s name. Go straight to’ your nearby Queen Quality agency with service and satisfaction insured at the start, and you will save worry, time and money. Buy Economically! 1t’s a distinct economy to pay Queen Quality prices—neither more nor less. 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