Evening Star Newspaper, April 24, 1921, Page 67

-’Afl;!é"Rificr{i)buse Sayfi Fe\w Eras- of Fashion Hafi% Espapéd' Eagie Eyes-of the Designers. e | hole, guiltless of sleeve. is all”very The Squhre S]eeve‘w,” as, one of variety. but its uni-. - 2 | versality among our women has given Dominates—Concérn=| us impetus to seck frosher leas. ing the Long Glove. With- Squares. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. HE designers of sleeves must have been reading Mr. Wells® “History of the World” and determined to mold their arm eoverings on.those worn since the Neolithic -age. . Few ‘eras of fashion have escaped s their cagle eves and’ alert brains ‘Whatever. the creators of other cen- turies devised. that we will have with us this season It is a joyous relief to get away from the monotony of sleeves that has prevailed for several vears. Littl» has been’ stirring in arm fashions, Such accessories have lain dormant since the war broke, as far as the | public’s acceptance of them went. The creators of clothe have intro- duced a new measure here and there. but the French public and the ma- jority* of Americans have taken to heart the war phrase There “As vou were.” is danger that the Americans insist _upon discarding any y in fabric and cut this son. for they have come a_year lat into the mad desire for monotony expressed in the black frock, the gra or beige stockings, the black sandals the ‘black hat. for the street. ' Probably the summer will discour- age-them from the constant wearing of mourning that is not mourning. Those who are journeying. abroad in such quantities that steamer- rates are as. high as Olympus and accom- modations as rarc as selfless charity \Seem bent on packing their trunks with a varied assortment of inky black costumes. because of the report that suglwelaehes”are the most ac- e the tofrid: oofiditions of the major part of ‘apt ¥micrs should be glad to SWingiana qm black into white and ch%.' igptors. o= Ex 5%n ear. however, to the in arm-coverings will bealiie toktve a stimulating ef- fect th #héiriacceptance to her costumes whehicr. she clects to re- main in’ BJacKy g¥ leap into bright * ol colors. f fahions there are in Delighl 'rr‘-z!p‘o(m should inscribe » a round ysebin:af!thanks to offer to the F;%gfl%xfi- akers for their successfil Jefforts tumery.* Stiehiinppvations tickle the senses 6f thE gmateur as well as the professignat’ aep"c ally. the former. for, de: , discourak n#, the woman who s not ablé to buy a large and vakisd wardrobs] ‘plunges, .gl&dly: in}6 withe. task of “rebuildifg- old ] is true that the-amatefy and thif’ emall dréesmaker are beuer%p‘gg;a? such work thap-for large, end#Yo) which encomipass new matetialeiig untried Patterns.- One of the sadidr clusions .arrived at through forced economy im @lothes during the reign of terrific prices is that the: cheap gown at_the ready-to-wear price has more style and character than the’ most painsiaking effort of the woman who builds her clothes at home. It uew Clothes Trimmed ! ?‘: this line of cos- | ous—tailures ania- J.would interfere with the busluess of life. ‘Outside o fthat syit and the tai tis a world for. this sleeve to conquer. very other kind of costume can be turned.into something new.by the ad- dition of one .of these square pieces of fabric. ’ In evening cloth | ing not disguised. they are a bless- mi-nudity controls the ons ‘for fhose {that take pla after dark. half-high frock with a sleev length in transparent fabric is accept- able for the most formul occasion. as it was in the rich rena an d all women can indulge in the ite sport: That of making the after- noon frock - serve for the electric hours. i s long ®ocial con Affair the * x x % It is just at this point that these newly revived sleeves come into full play: here is.where they serve greatst need. And they enhance econ- long kid xury. ture the necessity for the glove which now ranks.as a There are none so . inartistic. no matter how wedded they may be to the old-fashioned habit of covering the hands in the evening, as to wrin- kle a length of-harsh white kid be- neath the oriental arm draperies of {unlined gold and silver lace of sea- {zreen chiffén or tulle. of raspberry Inet embroidered with silver ara- | besques. of white chiffon covered with a tracery of rhinestones and pearls. The woman who wears an evening irm(-;\ of capucine red crepe de chine with a flowing sieeve of thin gold lace the waisf line. a sleeve sufficiently long to cover the knuckles, will not commonize it by stretching a length of protective leather over the soft eontour of the flesh. To do this would be to throw away the money paid for i the frock. i Tmagine how a kid glove would ap- {pear under’ that waterfall sleeve whiclt has caught the fancy of those who creafe attractive things! 'This isleeve is a menuine novelty. It built of strands of pearls | threads dropping from, a loose foun- {dation siceve which covers the arm ifrom shoulder to wrist. As the wear< jer lifts the arm,- th rain-like |strands drop in glittering fragments to the knees In a frock of green and silver bro- | cade, there are the kind of arm cover- !ings which Melisande wore when she | beguiled Pelleas. They sweep the [ fioor. they are of green chiffon, run- ning to a point, they are gathered |into a short armband which is edged with points of silver thread to match | the design around the medieval neck :lme. This gown has no girdle; it is cut as slimly as any worn by the | Pharaohs. The woman who wears it wears in her ears long pendants of ibeaten silver and green jade. -The !extravagant “fashion for bracelets {“hicn began the day.after war ceased its_height last winter jand reached !has not ended. Beneath these orlen- | tal sleeves bands of metal and colored |Stones are quite approptifite and women continue to plage: them be- Taen the Shoulder amAthe‘wrist. Al ways. there is ome, if'not more, above 3 jt“wasifn the shape the elbow. taken from an- ¥ is apt to be ceptabjpiig Paris and London H Women " Wit Telnain here to meet |“lored frock thatis its substitute, there | The Grecian arm- | ny'| the | omy by pushing further.into the fu-| put into an armhole thit reaches to! and silver | 1 [ i GOLD LACE. MAKERS, tring of mts. v&i'hu zlrant! .to place this famezing multitidé of baubles upon he arms, added to the price of long 'gioves and the difficulty in—keeping] em clean when \dancing was un- doubtedly responsible for the néw neration overthrowing a time-hom- convention, Inly - the’ TOSE” ‘@fternoon - frock carries the Igng. ffransparent sleeve. which the mnuk mal of evening gowns permits. B¥t dities do not cease with. evening [gowns.~There is a long tight sleeve of black lace for the frock that sees one through-any fesfivity between five and séven. It is placed in the ubiqui- tous-gown ‘of Canton o charmeuse which is now being used on thé wrong side, so that no particie ! l ,aa‘fifvely artigtio} GREEN end over the shoulder. This ribbon is never of satin. One sees wery little satin, by the way. either for. entire gowns or as accessories. It is not wist to eccentuate the ex- tra large square sleeve on any kind of frock except one.for the evening, but there is a fashion. for the square Spanish sleeve - in such humdrum gowns as those of blue tricotine and 'crepe de chine. THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, ‘All Sleeve Styles, Since ABOVE: THE SLEEVES AND BACK ('I.‘E?E DE CHINE ARE FORMED OF THERE WILL WIDE, GSE OF. LACI'} DURING THE Sl:!m SAY qzll’l‘Al!\' FASHION AND SILVER BROCADE GOWN, WITH SILVER EMBROIDERY 4 'D. C. APRIL. | | | BE A CHIFFON SLEEVE:! the square that “Fuszy Wuzzy" broke ,and fling as a young berrack room reporter turned into poetic his- tory. rials are woven in such design, the square formed by a thin white or tan thread. On transparent summer |frocks, especially those of white or- | gandie, there is a thread of lacquered There is a strong desire to cover red running over the surface and in most of the clothes we wear with | muslins that are simply built there these squares, a fashion you must|is a black or deep blue thread form- have observed it you have seriously |ing immense blocks. ' * % % % | dressmakers 1921_PART 4. have emphasized the fashion by using these plaid muslins lines. There is a succession of even- 1y placed groups around the skirt at | wide intervals on a few of the suc- and organdies as reasonably Wide | feasful models. sleeves for serge and tricotinc | *ox % % frocks. This is a decided innova-' A glceve on a crepe frock may be tion, although along in the end of the | gpened straight down the back for nineteenth century there was also a|its full length and edged with this fashion. widely accepted. to Place | gyll ribbon fringe. The French spon- | square and gathered sleeves of|sor this fashion for street frocks and brightly designed foulards in princess trocles A tizray lond blustlothy ithe American dressmakers offer it ‘the Dawn of Creation, Are Repeated'Thié'"Spring. thr *ened. however, by the preva- len. of suede slippers for the street. Whatever else we do_this spring, we must mot shine. Lackluster must be our.clothes if not our chaTaclgrs This is one verdict and it is carrig K n""" out thfough these doleful frocl L N - e Canton crepe and satin used on'thasbw wrong sides Yet no sooner do-wan: take this maxim to heart than we.are faced with the palpable fact that the method of giving a varnished surfade’® known 1p ihe trade as lacquered :ts: » - ¥ ¥ at A °a 2 -2 Colored chiffon heavily soutached |but our women will not accept it un- ’/‘\"“,’_“’ S "“""W}‘r"‘“\“"" h:s:”’b":“l;g‘;u or embroidered with squares of jet iS|less the edges are caught together at home quantities of the lacquered " useHl §lor ethargiliinds ol ecves, the elbow and above. This is not 'muslins: which the French call cire.n® dark gowns for the street. pgvn bi inconsistent after wearing the baby Such designers as Renee. who #entier o gundy red chiffon is one of the c sleeve for two years: with that sleeve ' hundreds of frocks this season nto . cra Cheen for a navy Dlue Streci|ihey were able to wear long gloves: {he farthest depths of Ameficd with this one only a short glows is makes a feature of lucquered ms There is an jeciofel peheliconboxl possivle Bt TNID Swiriof Mesmes meRih “},M; hions :n the tiecves in some 8hort| ' If the amateur is to copy this fash- | place in a Persian knot at the ton kets and casaques on which musliafion she must remember that no luster ' of a wide sash twisted about ruffies are finely pleated and rum uv|is permitted on these ribbons. waist; She also runs streamers of, thielback Sofithe fatm Uromiwrist Mo liaEmonder [that Sthednatent them down the skirts. So do fushigns elbow. Again this pleating i o(|gandal remain O s St . siashed fabric or. which is much 2 prottier. it is of picot edged ribbon Closely placed in a thick fringe — L Thiz method of using ribbon has grown to high popularity and it is To Cook Rhubarb. ] considered a smart touch on skirts{} > LR | I | New Umbrelln when it is placed vertically in short There is scarcely any number of methods by barb may It may be stewed. loped, turned into jam, marmalade or jelly, or it may be used in making pies, tarts or puddings, to say noth- ing of the countless special desserts like puffs, charlottes, and other des- serts. Rhubarb may aiso be delic iously combined with raisins, dates, tigs, rice, strawberries, currants. bu- nanas, ginger and-many other dishes that wiil suggest themselves to a resourceful housewife. not necessary to peel rhubarb. skir is gelatimous. It melts and imparts a rich red color and excel- lent flavor. If sugar is added after limit whi to the rhu- be prepared for the table. baked or scal-| | the rhubarb is cooked. it will not require as much to sweeten it. Do not cook it in tin or iron. When the crust of a juicy rhubarb pie breaks, make a thick paste of flour and wa- ter and spread it with a knife over the broken edge. When the pie is done, the added paste may be lifted off. leaving the: pie in good condi- tion. ki Rhubarb Gelatin.—Cook some rhu- barb and run it through a sieve. Sweeten to taste, heat and add a box of gelatin already dissolved. Stir the ingredients and pour into a shal- low pan. When cut in slices, it is very nice to_serve with any cold siiced meat. This also makes an ex- cellent fish garnish. Rhubarb Mold.—Take one pound of rhubarb, one-half a pound of dates, three ounces of ground rice, one pint of milk and one and one-half ounces of sugar. Wipe the rhubarb, cut it into inch lengths, wash the dates, put both into a jar, cover with water. place a cover on the jar and stew the fruit until tender. Remove the dates, take out the stones and cut the fruil up into small pieces. Put the milk on to boil. Blend the ground rice with a little cold water or milk Pour the boiling milk onto it. return the mixture to the pan and stir until boiling: simmer for ten minutes. stir- ring frequently. When cooked. add the sugar, rhubarb and dates. Mix all well together, color red with vege- table coloring, pour into a mold rinsed in cold water and leave to set. When cold turn out and serve with a thin custard. Rhubarb Shortcake.—Cut one small bunch of rhubarb into small pieces. Cook in an enameled dish with one cupful of sugar and half a cup of water. Make a dough of one quart of fiour, one-half cup of water. one-half teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoon- a soft dough. Lay on a greased bak- ing powder and milk enough to make a soft dough. Lay on a greased bak ing tin and bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes. When cool separate into two parts, upper and lower, without cutting. Spread with the rhubarb sauce. Place together and serve with cold cream. Rhubarb With Preserved Ginger.— Place a layer of cooked rhubarb in 2 glass dish ang _cover with lady fin- gers moistened. with rhubarb juice. Sprinkle in one-fourth pound of chop- ped preserved ginger and over all pour a good custard and garnish with whipped cream and stripes of an- gelica Rhubarb With Bananas.—A D@ way to use rhubarb is to stew equal parts of it and of bananas separately until nearly done, then finish cooking them together, with sugar and lemon to suit the taste. : Rhubarb Marmalade. — Put six pounds of rhubarb which has l?een peeled and cut into small cubes into a preserving kettle; also seven pounds of granulated sugar, the grat- ed peel and juice of two oranges and two lemons and one-half pound each of English walnuts and almond nuts, chopped fine. Mix all together, cover and let stand all night. Boil until it begins to jelly and stir to keep it from burning. There are also exaggerated bell- shaped sleeves built in contrasting colors, especially in black and white, which are trimmed with jet beads or squares of dark blue, red or gray beads placed far apart. These square motifs in adornment are well liked by the dressmakers. They represent a pleasing departure from floral effects. The rival of the square design is a plaid. It is often.arranged in im- mense open squares like the British military formations of other days, studied the new clothes.. As Some of the popular Paris mate- Fads and Fancies. Dinner gowns are without sleeves, but they are cut rather high in the neck. A great.deal of cut-out embroid- ery is meen on the sheer summer frocks A charming hat of gray faille is trimmed with two tones of ostrich curlicues. y Blue-and-white foulard and white serge are combined-to make a very smart suit. A plain biack satin coat has monkey fur at the bottom and around the sleeves ° A dark blue chiffon gown is trim- med with gravelike bunches of tiny blie pétals. Canton crepe dresses have Vionet panels at the sides, giving a wide ef- fect at the hips. Collar _and undersleeves of white hemstitched organdie,are wora on 2 black taffeta frock. . The short, puffed sleeve i much as the plain strap over shoul- der for evening. . A dress of red swiss dotted with worn as it. is to be a year of what is ccmmonly called lingerie effects, the HOME NURSING AND HEALTH HINTS BY M. JESSIE LEITCH. Observation to the Rescue. “I haven't the least idea in the world how to g0 about it!” wailed the wom- an who had asserted several times in the doctor's presence that she was not in the least affected by the sight of wounds. This being the case, and the wound in question being quite a simple one, the woman’s husband hav- ing had the misfortune to cut his hand rather badly with an ax, it was not extraordinary that the doctor should have telephoned the woman and asked her if she would please change the dressing on her husband’s arm. The doctor was called into the country. He would not return till late. The wound required a fresh dressing. Womanlike, she assented eagerly enough, then realized that she really did not know what to do first. “You always talk as if you know all about'it’ said her sister, rather unkindly. The sister was angular and a bit unapproachable. Elder Sister Gives Her Ald. “Oh, dear! What shall I do?’ And the helpless little woman becamg quite sure that she could not stand the sight of blood—that she should surely faint if she did the dressing. So the sister, who observed keenly, white is edged with sawtooth points of navy blue organdfe. * Even bathing sdits show the fash: ionable hip extension in the form of flaring side pockets. . Taffetas are trimméd in_ tulle of a matchipg shade, Frehch blue and jade green being favored: ’ Flame color, rose, Reranium, scarlet and cerige are used for facings, trim- ‘ored linen bound’ with folds of the niings and embrojderies, The 6verfodicé, With belt exten- sions and scalloped hem, is featured by Frenth dresses of crepe de chine. Over a narrow skirt of- plaid gin ham is ‘worn a.peplum.blouse of col- SMART COLLAR AND NEW SLEBVE 1 FROCK. BLACK AND WHITE CHECKED s a day of specialization raised to the nth degree. Others can do most things better for us than we can do for ourselves. All the ages have touched upon the ceve that merely mb from which been dormant for many scasons and now ix revived.in glory. Possibly no one designer was responsible for its revival. 1t came into being through concerted action It has marked charm. and length are dependent hour which the frock serves. In the styc tailored suits, for ~which Agrericans and French .show a re- |of luster .may reach the observers eye. There is also a tight sleeve of thin cloth in which strips of open net are inserted from shoulder 4o wrist, and there is a wide variety of -sleeves in Canton and other crepes that hang loose frem the shoulder, usually open: jdown the back ‘and caught at the | wrist with a-bowknot of narrow |picot ribbon. It is quite a trick of |the dressmakers this ®pring to tie |the open néck and the open -sleeve , with narrow riBbon.“Lanvin lets her streamers of ribbon hang to the waist, if they are at the neck, and wed interest there is no attempt |0 the hém of the skirt if they are at ro introduce any feature so orna-|the wrist. Sometimes she uses bright aacntal as this oriental sleeve. Itlred ribbon and the wearer throws one L} gingham. A-capelike wrap of dark blue serge. is made.in three-tunic style; the edges of each tunic -are.beund with gray cloth: - A pretty summer froék hds a straight funic of contrasting mMiaterial attached at the hip line and hanging below the skirt. £ A smart dress is ome that features a panel attached under the hem, as well as'at the waistline, and faced in 4 lighter color. 3 A gown of silver brocaded safmon- color silk is girdléd with sparkling rhinestones, which droop two balls at either side. Its width upon the ABOVE: BLUE CREPE DE CHINE AND PLAID CHIFFON SLEEVE, ONE OF THE NEW IDEAS. BELOW: BLACK AND WHITE CREPE DE CHINE AND JET BEABS. i \ . if she did speak but seldom, said rather stiff “I'll do it myself. i T've seen the doc- tor do it often enough. Dear only knows, .it's a simple task.” And went swiftly upstairs for the package she knew the doctor had left in the bu- reau drawer. A The package contained some little bundles wrapped in cotton and marked “Gauze.” Two small white enamel basins, two pairs of forceps, a small glass syringe. There was, upstairs, a bottle of sterile salt solu- tion, also cold sterile water, as the sister very well knew, for. she had helped the doctor to prepare it in readiness for his visits. “Bring a tray and a clean towel.” the sister said, shortly. The wife brought them. “Why do you want a tray?” she be- gan. ‘Then she stopped as she ob- served the now sterilized basins, the one covering the other; the bundles of gauze, the little tray in which the forceps and syringe had been boiled, being placed on the tray. It was quite simple, really. To save steps. About Sterflization. “r'll scrub my hands in the bath- room. But first, where are ths ban- dages. and pins and towels that the Aocters brought from the hospital— the sterilized ones?” Mutely the wife found them,. placed them on the tray. And= followed her sister upstatrs. wondering the while why dressings seemed so simple until one actually went to change one. ! Carrying the tray to the bedside | table, " where the patient lay | cheertully in bed reading * Pirate,” the woman who had watched the doctors closely followed his pro- cedure in the dressing of wounds most | faithfully. | satisfying herself that everything she would require was at the bedside, she unfastened the bandage, rolling it neatly as she removed it from the man’s hand, She placed the arm on a clean towel and scrubbed her hands in the bath- room, dipping them into the basin of antiseptic solution she had prepared. “Hold that clean paper bag around here at the head of the bed, Myra. T'll drop the soiled dressings right into it.” Myra did as she was bid. Arranging sterile towels under the wounded hand, the sister proceeded to remove the gauze from the wound, moistening it first with salt solution. which she dripped carefully from the syringe upon the gauze to soften it. Then. gentlv she lifted the soiled dressing off with sterile forceps, sponged the wound with little ster- ilized sponges of cotton. held in the forceps and dipped in the warm salt solution. With fresh sterile forceps she re- moved fresh gauze from the packet Myra had opened for her, directing her, meanwhile, not to allow her fin- gers to touch the dressings within the packet. The fresh gauze applied. it was the matter of 2 moment to apply a little soft pad, to bandage swiftly. the hand and arm of the man who, in spite of himself. had to admit that the dressing had been well done. “You didn't hurt a bit” said the man. “And I think vou are wonder- ful.” breathed his wife. “Wonderful! Nothing, T just use my eves. That's all” said the angular ne) snappily, as she carried away the TAY. Rhubarb in Pastry Shells. Cut two pounds of rhubarb into inch pieces. Place them in a bak- ing dish in layers, sprinkling sugar between the layers. Add two table- spoonfuls of water. one tablespoon- ful of butter and a few thin strips of orange peel. Place in a moderate oven, cover and bake for one hour. Dissolve one tablespoonful of pPow- dered gelatin in one-half cup of strained orange juice. and when the rhubarb is cooked' remove it from the oven and add this mixture to it. Let it get cold. When ready to serve, fill some pastry shells with the rhubarb mixture, heap with whipped cream flavored and sweetened to suit the taste, decorate with crystallized orange peel. —_— The wide circular cape wrap is shorter than last season. { | l i . BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE 5 It was from France that England. and ‘the United States first took LAl fashion of carrying umbrellas, and, for years Dbefore the period of. ous revolution. it was regarded as an So although the English people. espe- ially Londoners, are now most addicted 10 the umbrella habit—and there is no better workmanship to be found in any umbrcilas than on those made in Eng- land—France still sets the fashion in umbrellas; that 1s, if you choose to re- gard your umbrelia as a means of ex- pressing-your devotion to art and-fash- ion The strap umbrella of a year or =o ago was undoubtedly one of the most convenient umbrellas ever devised, and doubtless this type of umbrella { will still be carried in the shops for the benefit of women who think first THE NEW WOOD OR IVORY UM- BRELLA HANDLES WITH TWO FRENCH BAGS OF CHINESE IN- SPIRATION. of serviceability in selecting acces- sories. of thif sort. But as far as fashion goes it is no more. It is the model of 1919 or 1920. The Enormous Handle. The new umbrella—af Paris inspira- tion—is known by its enormous han- dle, usually shaped with straight lines, slightly flaring at the top—a difficult umbrella to hold and one that would be as easy to lose as the wrist- strap variety was easy to keep with you. There are some women, howewer, who have learned. the comfort of the wrist strap who have a silk cord .or ribbon placed just below the handle of the new type umbrella. Umbrellas not made in this flaring straight-line type seem many of them to have been inspireéd by recollections of the menagerie. There are leopards and snakes and elephants .if your taste in animals inclines to the wild, and dogs and cats and harmless little birds if you like tamer creatures. Of Chinese Design. Sometimes these animals are shaped in wood painted in colors. More t Your taste: perhaps, are those carved: in ivory, Chinese fashion. Some of the straight, large, flaring handles are of: ivory with conventionalized figures of flowers of Chinese carving. Chinese workmanship appears other accessories, although we hear less of Chinese tendencies in clothes: fashions this vear than last. Bags ga * frankly to Chinese art for inspiration; and Paris is responsible for the return - to vogue of. the Chinese purse with round ivory handle held with chains .qs of silver. i Silk_ bags are made of Chinese brocade or embroidery, of actuai “hinese workmanship. ~This. is used in connection with tops French in . manufacture, but cleverly designed in keeping_ with the Chinese ingpiration. of the silk. These tops are of ivory.or. the composition known as galalith ora- the newer galaloid. < This is an excellent way to ume:: leftover' cereal, or if you will cook ' enough cereal at a time for more than one serving, part of it can be used for. this dish, as it must be made with the cereal ready cooked. Pare' and core six apples. Make a sirup from three-fourths of a cup-of Sugar and one quart of water and cook the . apples in this uptil they are Soft: turning _frequently so as to cook both sides. Fill the cores .of the apples with the cooked oatmeal or: other cereal. Boil -the sirup alone until thick, then pour it over the' filled apples. Meringue Almond Rings. Roll one-balf pound of puft paste very thin and cut it out with.-a bis- cuit cutter. From each round cut a smaller one from the center 60 that the ring will be about an inch wide. Beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth; add one-half pound of pulver- ized sygar and stir with the dish in boiling_water until the meringue is thick. Sli¢e one-half pound of blanched almonds very thin. Stir them into the meringue, cool, then with a silver knige place this mixture on the rings. Bake at the temperature proper for cake. These almond rings wiil' keep fresh for several weeks. e e Laces, especiafly tn will be much used. ‘@yed coloringe. it > L) ia “ Y “effeminate fashion of the French, W )™ Giameaka w T a I et b ETrE ]