Evening Star Newspaper, June 11, 1898, Page 19

‘CopFinent, tas, by 8. MBalswhs & STUNNING HOUSE GOWN. Axy ee DAINTY HOUSE GOWN |S: Designed by Rouff, the Famous Cos- tumer of Paris. STYLISH COLORS AND MATERIALS Tailor-Made Dresses Still High in Popular Favor. Sp al r. IS0S. 7 vilor-made costume various re or less € te forms has ingra- t ed s t woman of today the jacket is rarely « nt which meets the require- rm the fashionable t The w ront ar ack, and t © made of i for eld ladies, while the young yor m plain but per- * y rows of | The practica an gladly greets such < ms 1 arrangements as will permit th id materiais, and she w r A pPTOVE the fashion of | x 1, moreover, one which tar ind becoming whea the chemis vest cor s with plitd silk r 1 with h. or s suits further easing Cont aa oe OLT FOR MOTHS. This ix the Sensom When They Will You Trouble. From oh T ss Herald, T w m, eb: , s In early g tly h later hatch out int such havoc « Therefore in for sum- t no eggs i packed a ready ¢ i its eggs shouk well brushed st ugh which they can ente they ter beating and brush- ing © separately in news- pe for » rs © of the best oft reventives bags made of thickness er, pasted, sew gether edges turned < the next best thing tive as t i to thi Ride the libera ho cause of cedar ‘ sth t trunks too expensive made of an ¢ y ad with tar 5 ticky t being best must b “ turn with two thick ef newspaper to. pr. P s from the tar. Then lay t x, with newspapers between each i nd fastea the box securely adies to im that care tn putting away furs pl cainst n the first piac Lt prevent ex: hi Inde dealers w furs during the sum- constant att The head of the rtment o the leading stores when asked what moth destroyer he used A, undertake the plan with a stick. Every fur garment bright blue serge opening over a vest of A high folded stock cravat of | white satin fs wound around the high linen collar and falls in two ends over the chest. Another gown for afternoon wear has a odice of brown and tan plaid golden brown low tight-fitting taffeta. Over this is dra smooth canvas cloth, which forms a cut, slashed and sleeveiess blouse, 4 clo the silk bodice underneath. overdress closes on the left side 2nd con tinues as an overskirt. which is also slash- sl With hucksters’ stalls heaped high with the crimson, lusclous berries of which Dr. Boteler, Yzaak Walton's friend, wrote, “Doubtless God might have made a better berry, but He never did,” the housekeeper Possessed of the ladies’ (loaf giver’s) in- stinct to “see that everybody has something nice to cat,” becomes tempted to again try her skill in preserving them fcr future use. Possessed of a delicate, evanescent flavor and color, the strawberry requires special care to preserve either its coloring or the new flavor that comes with even the slight- est exposure to heat. In selecting berries for canning or preservirg, be sure that they are ripe, dry and freshly gathered, if pessible. The berries that have laid in market cvernight are not worth the trouble of handling. See to it that the cans to-be used are sterilized, tops and all, and that the rubbers are entirely new. If preserved according tc the American custom, allow sugar pound for pound, but never allow the jes that are to be canned t» stand in ar, as it extracts the juice and teughens the berry. Pack the fres fruit into the cans, shaking down well, put tax- iug care not to crush the berries. Have reudy a hot sirup made of sugar and th> juice squeezed from other smaller berries and slowly pour the hot sirup over the fresh berries in the jars, leaving an inch pace at the top. Have a common wath boiler half full of water that 1s about as warm as the hot sirup has made the jars. t the cans on a wooden rack fitted to the better cf the boier, and place straw cr ritchen towels between the cans to pre- ven: their knocking together. Puc the can covers on tne cans, but leave off the rub- bers. Fring to a Sot. and as sson as the rup in the jars rises, showing che cen- i ding hot, lift the jars cut on te y board. Fii! cach brimming fli with the scalding sirup, which is left in the s:ucepan, put on the rubbeS and screw cn the cove s tightly as possibie. 'Tishi- en again when cold, wrap cach vace paper and set in a cooi, dry cellar, where the temperature does not rise above 70 de- gres. The celebrated Wiesbaden process, which is considered the very best rule for preserving strawberrie§, does not differ ma- terially from this. A sirup is prepared from stgar and the juice of small berries, allow- ing five pounds of sugas to tive pounds of juice. Let the sugar melt and come to the boiling point and boil two or three :ninuies. Skim well. Fill ten thoroughly sterilized cans with the large Ties, selected from ten quarts, cover with the sirup, cover closely, leaving off the rubbers, however. Place the cans in_ boile: pursuing the same precautions as just mentioned. Fill the boiler full of hot water to the necks of the cans and let the canned berries remain in the water for five or ten minutes after it begins to boil. The strawoverries during this process will have risen :o “he top of the can and absorbed some cf the sirup. Fill the cans to overflowing with more sirep, put on the rubbers and screw up tight. Put up in this way the berries will keep for years, ret ning color and flavor. Gaston Blay, the Mme. French cook, takes issue with the majority of cooking hool teachers, who recommend the shin of beef as most suitable for soups and con- ed over the underskirt of brown and tan|somime. She advocates instead solid, lean | Plaid taffe A gold belt gathers the full- | peer, with a t.ny bit of veal and a small ness of the blouse at the waist lino. marrow bone. For a quart of consomme An Elegant House Gown. she gives the French rule, one pound and : : z , i a half of solid meai, with veal and mar. Our Mustration represents an elegant | + pone: thre pints of cold water, a “bou- house gown of ck ing, covered } quot” of herbs, comprising one onion, on: wit® polka dots one small piece of celery root, four The skirt, of adm! is lined with ee ae and one bay leat. | het See ae ows the favorite | is also required tw rrets (f old, the y+l- ack Slace: tatete. See oe a a rid iow part inust be removed), two ordir ry serpentine flounce, which falls in a Roripe, a eles GalaY pice OF cared oe fip’’ behind, and the conn nie Put the meat and bone An ake is concealed by five cold w Ww hg the Lone thorough- fas milliner’s folds. | ly to remove any small bits that may ad- e blous = Sade Up O¥er: black | yor bi merely wiping the meat wit la is tight-fitting over | Gamp cloth. Allow to come to a bi few smail folds are | quickly, and hoil fast at first in ¢ to hich cauded folded | skim, or otherwise it be cloudy. Siim | 5 penance a ront | three t Pen ely aa pee parr ay See to the surfa Afier skimming the last fe caine Ri tims a pinch of pepper, a teaspoonful Ri niltnere eels Ce BOE” of salt, the ve: and bouquet of Jopentng over a fall vest of trish’ euipure | Retbs. Do mot cover but leav> the cver white taffeta. A novel finish is given | Hd partly off. Push back on range and sim- Eby tha viatee hows isnot Gn eke Blie mer gently four hours and a halt strain | chine, also held by a mond ¢ thro ve and u 101 r cold, as jand the high folded stock collar of blue | Cesited. fue, Cemonstealed (oy Simi crepe de chine. The sleeves are almost | Play, is beautifully clear and strong. If |tighe and very long, with an rimmed | roast best or chicken bones are utilized in | bell cuff of the sa black nun’s veiline np oF ‘consomme it will niced a ‘trifle of over black taffeta g The caps over the | Coloring. This may be quickly prepared by shoulders are also c with lwo narrow | Melting a lump of ‘sugar in a metal spoon rows of taffeta milli is over the blaze, then adding a little water to | This model sug variety of com- | the caramel obtained. | binations and Ss which may be — made up less ex than the original v orate lamp igs » Which ; } : 2 heen for a time ed in popularity by | BASLE VOR LUG Le the more simpli re, are now revived Thus a very striking variation consists | and embellished to such an extent that they lef red nun’s veiling with polka dots of | compar: fa bly in size with the petti- black cher d milliner’s folds of biack | Coats of a ballet dancer or a dancing « iii ace Rie GED er The vest | Vish in full swing. Paper, lace. chiffon, silk, Fee ne ne Tate eo | withicvotuminious @aditions! otters: Celle: auay VE f white lac bogs the collar and nibbowms and angle make up as mark- bow of black crepe de « with buckles i amp shades as Tancy run riot of jet. Needless to say that this combina- | couid devise. Some of the new shades are pops Tisane and though exceedingly chic | mad> up to imitate different floral « to but a few favored ones. One seen recently represented a grow A famous actress, well known for her ex-| hyacinth. From the midst of an imitation quisite dress, says wisely that « of wide-bottomed flower jar, concealed should Ww ow the head after | by frills of pink crepe paper and lace, a 2). nor below the waist after 30 spik> of purple hyacinths reared iiself, the Over ri ming is t Sartorial vice of the lamp’s chimneys being 5 in the jilme. The precept your moderation be | cénter of the blossoms. A big bow of satin Known rane ei ey ally disregarded } ribbon appears to hold the superstructure adherents to fi n. this is particular- | from falling. A very pretty shade exhibits ‘pparent In the millinery iine, as the ma- | tour different floral eff>cts, each of its sides dette CHa aes ees a with | representing a different flower. One {s of Pesan udaetec her eee uke | Scarlet poppies, another of pink roses, a | trimmings have never been more beautinal | {UPd of violets and the fourth of jonquils. idl this oe Of flowers which decorate | PRES? are mounted on a lining of pale pink lthe modern hat vie with the fairest ma. | Silk, and the lamplight streaming out va- hauctions/o¢ nature Peart a ries in tone according to which side of the : shade it is seen Strawberry sherbet ‘ one of the dainty and inexpensive des. ts that should find a frequent welcome during “strawberry time.” Hull berries kh to furnish a pint of juice (two or three quarts will Paria, tetally suftice), ash well and add to thera to a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon and — — === }a tablespoonful of orange extract et | in our store is brushed and beaten every | them stand an hour or Oe Unengates Ir Pane ovreete Rimes tnt a Ceca: Pe ato estes cerainnned f not sweet | 1 peli ee erough add sugar to make a very sweet | S furs more iajuee than | sirup. Strain again, pack in equal quan- | ise in cold. When they | tities of salt and ice with a piece of ace eis ace uld be seen to. that | Carpet and set away to freeze itself. If to | every hair is brushed smoothly into place, | the sherbet Hquor is added it becomes Re ul care should aiso be taken to lay them | #82 punch. As the alcohol of liquor hin- | properly in the chest or box. Sealskin is | 4¢TS freezing, the punch fs difficult to get | Het often injured by moths, but furriers | V°TY Solid. j sta . enn lay- | For beefsteak a la Shre ees 4 aretha lace reughened | hae, thick perterhouse a : a 2 a Clear fire. jiave ready The best method of employing camphor is fresh mushrooms. Peel the sen dan tienes ze Of & hazel nut, wrapped | the stalks and cut them off about haif an « yin tissue paper; thus covered the gum irch from the top. Lay them upperside | not tajure the most delicate colors. |down on th hot broiler and broil until ten- Fits of turpentine sprinkled frcety in alder, or saute them in hot butter in the fr: ROE ees rere ne wili |ing pan. They will not require more than ay moth’s eggs th have | five minutes. Turn and broil for two or nent therein, but the turpentine | three minutes on the other side. Have must not be allowed to touch anything | some butter softened and baste the mush- whic n possibly injure. rooms plentifully with this. Dish about | a — the steak. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, | Cleaning and Dyeing Feathers. add more butter, and serve piping hot. | From Ladies’ Home Journ: ity housewives debarred the use of To dye feathers black, first wash them In | leree. cool pantries or spacious eallacsiate : alf a tea-| Prone to use the window sills as a shel @ piat of boiling water in whieh half a tea- | for dishes of food. Frequently one zees a j *Poonful of soda has be>n dissolved; then | whole row of tenement houses, the sills of | Finve and put in the dissolved dye as pre-| the second and third stories filled with un- |r 1 for silk, holding by tips of the | ¢ vered tow is, pickers pps ene kK Bete Dives ate ie he tka Bs abe ready to receive anc all mannret Seas haga eset per Ronee wey * lov dust and germs 2s the breeze swe | © in cold water n soft cloths | them up from the streets. If a sill must | they may be waved | do duty av an ice box, "the food should be | thers come out | clesely covered, if health be any object. | awn under twee | For the housekeeper des of putting t ata time after heat. | Ref bed rooms into cool summer dress, the | Vis yy over a warm iron, | bctdoir and art muslins offered at che dry w ekea it curl qu ie WUHIte fonts ads and furnishing stores prove special ers may be geatly soused in warm soapsuds active. These muslins, which are on pana Res water ante iia - cents a yard, are crisp, fresh and coo! according to the plan given for PEMA ES CN Tae Sater, rs. oo —~ tte Straw Hats, * Journal, kk straw hats may be given e by revarnishing them, takes the place of dyeing, some black sealing wax pounded into piec and over which enough | methylated spirits to dissolve it has been | poured; then mix thoroughly, and apply | With a soft brush to the hat, covering jevery crevice of the straw. Blue straw {hats may be freshened in the same manner, using blue sealing wax. co Gemus Is the boss of circumstance; talent the henchman of success.—Life. sprigs cr ribbens tied in tru on the light backgrounds. They are used for bed covers and shams, savh curtains and bureau covers, the bed covers and shams being finished with a ruffte of the same. overs’ knots Strawberry fruit sirup to be used for a summer beverage is made by boiling a few pounds of frult in a granite or porcelain kettle set in a second larger kettle of boil- ing water. Strain the Juice through cheese cloth or cotton batting. Measure the juice and aliow a pound of sugar to each pint of juice, Boll together five minutes and bot- Ue tight. Hot and cold water pitchers In ol? En- glish and squatty Dutch shapes are among the season's specialties for country cotiage use. AMERICAN FASHIONS an No Reason Why They Should Not Lead the World. REVOLT AGAINST FRENCH DICRATION Cannot Equal Us in the Matter of Summer Gowns. ae SEASONABLE MATERIALS see Special Correspondeare of The Evening Star. (Copyright, 1898, by the International Literary and News Service.) NEW YORK, June 10, 1898. I: & QUIET NEW ingland town stands a quaint old house, one of whose sambrel - roofed legends dates back tothe days of the toston “tea party.” it is related that in ‘those stirring times the mistress of thé house was a little Indy, of ecding great spirlt, who, when forbidden by her lord a ink tea “under until the tax should be removed, spread her table upon the roof, and there invited her gossips and desied her husband. The mi of that house today is a wo- mar of ich spitit and more patriot- ism, wh head and front of one of the woman's clubs which are spreading the movement everywhere to organize rinst dependence on French fashions. When the systematic purchase of Amerl- can-made goods ivecated in this column weeks ago, it was without any idea that the thought was taking root in the minds of women all aver the country, and that it would bear frult so soon and so. vigo! The vivacious writers who are lifting up their pens In horror and calling on us to “Look here, upon this pi his roof” sire. The material was that delicate white silk veiling called India veiling. The foundation of the dress was a taffeta slip, over which was set an accordion-plaited front of the veiling, crossed here and there, bayadere-wise, with strips of lace ins ticn; microscopic ruches of turquoise blue gauze ribbon edging the lace gave u touch of color. An open robe of the veiling flowed away from the slip, half-fitting as to the waist, half-low in the neck, lying on the floor in a short train. Huge bows of tur- quoise blue tied over the bosom, and from them started more insertions of lace and ribbon, which followed the draperies com- Pletely around. The sleeves were half- oe to the elbows; they ended In wide lace rills. Clad All in White. Another girl for whose wardrove I have cultivated a good deal of respect has the dainty fancy of wearing little excep: white in summer. One of her snowy dresses is sheer white mull trimmed on the skirt with accordion-plaited frills. Each frill is edged with narrow Valenciennes lace put on with a fine gold cord. The bodice is maije with a white silk bolero of the Moorish shape, embroidered with arabesques in gold ond bound with a gold cord heading lace ruf- fie. I have seen a yellow chiffon sash don- ned with this dress or again one of white mull barred across with lace and insertion. This same white maiden wears somecdines over the slip that serves for the mull a white gauze dress decorated in one of th “old glory” fashions. Almost innumerable frills of narrow ribbon are set around th skirt from hem to waist; the red, white and succeeding cne another in regular The bodice has a yoke of the ribbons across the top and the sleeves trimmed with them. Foulard is justifying the hopes that many Feople placed in it early in the season. Lawn party dresses, dresses for croquet or other excuses for piazza lounging are made of it. A croquet gown of red and white foulard is trimmed with the Russian embroideries so much used. These sim- ulate a bolero on the bodice and a ed up and down the skirt in lines indicat- irg a triple polonaise. More elabo: feulards are made with little jackets open- ing over lace vests and lace neck trim- mings. Gingham and Pique. Gingham marches more and more rapid- ly into favor. It is the accepted material for tenn though that distinction means less than it would have done in days Le- fore the racket succumbed to the bicycle. That it combines well with duck is a dis- ccevery of which advantage is being taken. A good dress for country walks or for ten- nis is of bayadere-striped blue and white girgham, finished with a plain hem. With it is wern a polonaise of the old-fashioned three-quarter length that is just cree ving back into favor. The polonaise is of white duck and has its edge run in and out with ture, and on this,” contrasting French | blue ribbon. one Waist of ihe polonaise niceties with clumsiness alleged to be | gPenS over a front of striped xinxham. American, Would do well to consider that | The Reck Is comfortably open end finished a considerable share of our chiffone put | With flat collars of the two materials. up as “houveautcs de Paris” are no more {| , Pique gowns are almost as popular ‘n MR enEn than econ eine neh, | 2tMy or navy blue as in white. The mcst ye they have | effective style of making shows a gored ictionary can m them. They have | Cig" 5 i ailed un r F neh colors to mal the skirt with 3, ped flounce and bands ot LUCA SELABIG ERE tee ae ree ees embroidery down the front. ‘The trim rthy demand. for. American-made | P&sque bodice or Eton is fimshed with articles will reveal the fact that domestic | T&VerS and pearl buttons: it opens over a goods can be bad on short notice dainty | full blouse of lace and muslin, For ordi- BRBUEH aL ee HER oho eeeeiees rsry vacation wear there is notaing un- ’ | less it be the old stand-by vlue serge that What Women Can Do. can compare with pique for general com- Under t sh law requiring manu- | fort and durability. ELLEN OSBORN. factures to be marked with the place of their origin, the stamp “Made in ¢ many” not a recommendation, but a warning that who buys is neglecting a chance to build up, to the extent of his trade, the home industry. Jenglishwomen, whose ideas of dress were the laughing- stock of the continent not many years ago, have succeeded by sheer tenacity in stick- ag to their own notions of what is right and proper for them and their climate, in making their fashions respected; more than this, they have imposed their styles on both France and Germany. The ridi- cule that Worth heaped on the tailor gown as a agains able dre: fit. It has ce sable to the we availed not a particle me to be as indispen- i-dressed Parisienne as to the Londoner. Ame fashions today ure more English th are French. American women have been accused of a lack of taste, have done we can ¢ Undiluted French ons ar2 too outre for the average Ame n woman; we ha ways modified them, English fashions it us better on the whole, an rin the immediate have ever been; but for during a good portion | mething that England cannot ut we hav: already gone a ng Way toward evolving for ourselves. ly American. Summer fashions, not distinctly of the athletic sort, but applied to muslins and the thin dresses in which the summer girl takes ber ease and looks her prettiest, are Amer- ican and for years have been so. There is no modiste in Paris who can compete with a cleyer southern woman} in handiing or- gandies or any transparcnt stuffs capable of being made into cooj, lace-trimmed, rib- bon-decked robes. Ina lesser degree all cur out-door summer fashions are and must be our. own; French; designs have in mind women of much less petive habit than we ure, and ur2 always adapted rather than | English designs are followed more but are almost invariably heavy. The English tailor dress as sold in London in July is fit for a New York December. In striking eut upon more original lines and with domestic materiais, American wo- men have a far easier taek than they im- agine. It would require nothing more than the courage of their convictions on the part of a few of the best Amertean dressmak?rs, together with the ready co-operation of wo- nan purchasers, to make American designs nd American fashions respected at home and copitd abroad in a comparatively few years » be much more pop future than th our climate we n of the year give us and t lo are certain | | Scaxonable Fabrics. Such a millennial condition will or will not come about according as we ourselves if You Would Be Stylish You Must Affect The From the New York Herald. Would you believe it? To be in the mode eh girl and each woman must from now on wear earrings. It is with no uncertain ncise that fashion has issued this decree, and earrings old new—earrings from yeur grandmother's jewel casket, if you Uke, or earrings fresh from the jeweler’s— may be worn, provided only that some bit of goll or some gem glitters in your ear: While display is never proper, and espe- cially not in this case, the smart will be very large. It will be the hoop and chain, cr the band of gold, or the “drop.” A curious freak cf fashion is that screw earrings will not be permissible. That is, the screw with its solitary gem, frequently an exceedingly fine jewel, has not come to fashion with the other styles. The Dok earring alone will rule. Most popular of all probably wi hoop and chain, which consists of a suc- cession of gems, turquoises, rubies, dia- nonds or pearls, swung in a hoop’ from the ear, each jewel joined with its prede- cessor and successor by a fine chain of tiny gold links. The jewels may be of any size and there may be any number of them. A pair of hoop and chain diamond earring with the diamonds of good size, would c tainly cost not far from a thousand dollars. Such a pair of earrings of pearls would also figure up a very pretty sum. The band of gold, without jewels, but large. is exceedingly effective. These bands are also made of filagreed silver and fila- greed gold. The “drop” earring is much in vogue, and the gems used in it compris also diamonds, pearls, turquoises or rubies. These jewels hang in a straight line from the hoop, joined by gold chains, as in the hoop and chain earring. There must al- ys be ei three or five jewels in one of these strings, never two or four. The Jewels in a string in these earrings vary much in size, first a small gem, then a larger one, and so on, the string ending vith the largest. Yet another fashionable earring is the sequin earring. This is simply a hoop of gold, with four or five little golden medal- liens in imitation of the old sequin coin hanging from the lower edge of the hoop. It should be added that it is perfectiy good fcrm, curiously enough, to wear imitation stones of any sort in these earrings of to- Gay. Rhinestone earrings, for example, promise to be exceedingly popular this sum: mer. e or be the +o*+—___ ‘The Fashionable Accent. Frem the Philadelphia Prees, The fashionable accent is an important choose. Meanwhile the season is upon us when, 4s before hinted, the southern wo- man makes her g2nius felt and sets exam- pies well worth general study. At any wa- tering place usk who wears the most ex- quisitely finished Swiss muslins, batistes, lawns, etamines; jn nine cases out of ten sh2 hails from Baltimore, Atlanta or New Orleans. Some of the daintiest combina- tions thus fac worked out for the present summer are of diaphanous white muslins made up without linings over white taffeta slips and trimmed with great quantities of a pale, pretty army blue ribbon. A Wasningten girl was showing me a few @=ys ago the airiest tea gown heart could detail to be considered by the maid who de- sires to seem on2 of the society elect. Ske must avoid a lisp unless she wishes to brand herself a half century behind the times. The broad “‘a” of the Anglomaniac has also seen its best days. The southern drawl, with its appar2nt indifference to the existence of the average final syilable, is threadbare. To be up to date from a vocal point of view it Is necessary to cultivate a soft, low voioe, an cnunciation so distinct that occasionally you convey the impr: sion that the capital letter is at the end of the word, a certain vivacity of utter- ance that throughout Europe fs associated with the medern American girl. rounded spoonfuls are not heaping Ceveland’s BAKING PowDER. ones, required, of FOR UP - TO-DATE WOMEN Silk Shirt Waists Under Pretty Lace Blouses. A Way to Make Formal Out of F tigue Dress — Neck Fixings for Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, June 10, 1898. “A lace blouse, which makes shirt waists quite elaborate enough for all occasions ex- cept balls and formal dinners, has just ap- peared. This blouse has no sleeves, but often it is made with little caps over the shoulders, it hangs full in front and does not fit very tight in the back. It is made either of applique over muslin de soie in dainty and elaborate patterns or of re- naissance braid on fine net. The patterns of the braid or applique are always large and graceful. The effect of one of these lace jackets or blouses over a shirt waist of cerise or apple green taffeta is most allur- ing. It at once lifts the shirt waist from the realm of informal to that of formal dress, and it would be quite easy for a wo- man to go around the world with a couple of flannel or mohair shirt waists and one or two silk ones of colors vivid enough to show off a lace jacket. She would be ap- propriately dressed for anything which might come in the way of a traveler. In proportion to their beauty and novelt these blouses are not expensive, as they can be bought for a litue over $5, very handsome on If one wishes a whole overdress of lace, which is one of the most beautiful of the old fashio need only match one of these in a flounce of the same applique. The tlounces and skirts of renaissance, ete., have already been de- scribed in this column. Besides these ¢ lace trimmings there are bumberle tie additions to "3 wardrob2 constantly coming into | view. Little daiaty irifles they arc, which appeal to every Woman, but which, alas, have a pow making money disappear which is phe al considering that they are all small affairs Neckwear is always arce of exy and the lant change in women’s collars and stocks make nothing popular for ver long. The revolt against the linen col which began last winter, producea large, soft mull or liberty Silk tes. ‘Th in turn are being replaced by soft tucked stocks of mull, with two ends of the same, edged with either lace or liberty silk. Or one may have tucked collars of ribbon with the enormous ends falling over the front of one’s gown. The mull stocks, with ends mull, are very much worn by many wom: = an lat must the un- tie her in spite of the fact that th written law that a won own bows and ends. The hunting stock, which has only been worn by the extremists during the winter, is now adopted by all who indulge in any of the outdoor exercises we are beginning as a nation to appreciate. It is difficult tie them properly, and one must fight con- stantly with the laundress or laundryman to keep the ends flexibie enough to twist at all, but they are so c ? comfortable compared with a stiff linen collar. ‘The most becoming stocks have the neck band of white and the ends of pique in some pretty pl Mull Guimpes and Linen In place of the starched linen dickie one now sees a tucked muslin col nd fr This is so soft and becoming be som ides being h covler that the style is sure to be universally adopted. The turned-away neck with reveres falling away from it is now almost as universal as the skirt with the apron front, so it behuoves one to udy carefully the vario: the neck can be dressed with with the V-shaped opening. Generally the modiste sends home a dickie of some co trasting material, which may be put in and taken out at will if directed she wil aiso send home a couple of the muslin or mull dickies. But they can be bought at the large shops most satisfactorily made, or they can be constructed at home by deft fingers at a small expense. If one still clings to the nen c tie it is interesting to know that tl little change from last year in the shape of the collar and in the tie worn with it ihe gowns Collars turned over at the top and button. | ing in the back with a ribbon te wo twice around them are still worn in pret- cren to almost any other shape, aichough unsuccessful attempts have been made to introduce various fancy turn-over effecis High straight linen collars also hold their own, and will be worn with sh- able or silk st ops which deal almost exclusively, worn in the collars turned over at the top. as described above. The WI enough to wind about th then tie in a little bow showing W in front will be remembered, was done last summer This, it also, It is gratifying, with the whirl of fashion’s wheel, to « think we ure wearing what we wi ago. const sional a yee Moonlight Muslin Bons. Some of the dainty trifles which the sum- mer girl and the summer woman < will wear with her summer gowns are being shown. One most fetching creation for moonlight nights when one does not really need a wrap yet wishes for a of one should a breeze spring up > muslin de sote boa. They are made of either pink, blue or whitc muslin de soic. Over the pink and the w apple blossoms, which look very I made artiticial flowers, ind: ture of many of the inty gowns. From tiny tucks ethereal. are a summer's most ve have slipped into ac- cordian plaiting, end this most beauilf method Of using the soft silk materials popular at present should not be over- looked One of the most exquisite gown this spring was of a material as muslin de only a little firmer. a plaid of two shades of yellow on a white ground. The Inings, of course, were white taffeta. The bodice was low necked, eéged with yellow chiffon about the sleeves and top. The skirt had an apron front which was long pointed and narrow. The flounce, which was shallow in front and which of course formed the entire back of the skirt, was of the platd accordian platted. The effect was most graceful and beautiful. Accordian plaited linen and silk waixts are shown in small numbers, but are all the more Cesirable for that very fact. MARE BOYD. = Delayed. From Lite. First American author—“How zcon before ycur next novel appears?” “Not for three weeks. £ haven't started en it yet” f) 3 ways in which | © are trailed strings of | and | == = ———. $= WASHING THE HAIR. Some Plnin Adivee That Should E able One to Avoid Trouble. From the Cincianst! Commercial Tribun: I: is as great a mistake to wash the hair too frequently as it is to wash it to: dom. In the former case the con nt use of water is apt to wash away the natural oil of the skin, without which the hair not only loses its glossy look of health, but is apt to turn prematurely gray and grow thin and scanty, In the latter case the mouths of the oil vessels at the roots of the hair become clog: dandruf forms and the growth of the hair is impeded, and the hairs themselves become matted and dusty looking, and utterly impossible to be endured, To keep the hair in perfect health it should be washed at regular stated inter- If you are strong and well and frea in vals. from a cold of any kind, very three weeks or a month is the proper limit of time to allow between the washings. If you are in delicate health it should be washed every six weeks. On no account should the hair be washed if you are suffering from a cold in the head or from influenza, as serious trouble may be the result. And in winter time it is best to have the hair shampoved at home, instead of going vo the hairdresser’s, and it should always be done in a room } with a fire. It is a bad plan to wash the hair just before going tu bed, as the aair | has n> time to dry properly, and .s apt to } remain damp until morning,’ which is very | injury us to its growth. The t limes to wash t hair are the morning, the after- noon or between 6 and 7 nignt In the latter case the hair will hav® plen- ty of time to dry before you have to go to bed. In the former case, Ve it Washed in the daytime, be caretul not to go out of doors until it is quite dry, or you will run a very great risk of taking cold The proper way to w uir is to have sour maid it a case you have t endur- ance until it is fnishe irse, in | this way it is very | But sometimes y and in this shampooing ents if will . but work so weary- to be at DE a proc first sight First of all you must let your ha:r down, | and brush and comb it well ull it is ent it would ecm © from: any tangle. your- with a loose whi dressing Jacket. with a buy towal i your ters routs the wash that using to cleanse the hair with. a fresh parting, and repeat the till the skin of the head is Uessly You must not be atraid of scalp rather briskly. Then 1 our a little of the wash into 3 rub it all over the a thick ext r th whly by 1g the | a bath or basin, and see that hair is well cleansed at the same | You must pour warm, and ther ater over the head till the water basin is quite clear and clean, squeeze the hair (do not wring it) the hands, and at once enycioy | warm, dry towel. Rub it for a minute, | then take # dry towel and repeat this pro j cess till the greatest isture has taken from the hair. Now you car | the back over the shot | f small, hot tow u disap. Vigorou lessly « ys. dry at ‘ ared. Be caretul not to rub y,or you will get the hair very tangled. | hair i has it is well to give the final drying with @ paim-leaf fan, Hold the long ba arms iength and fan the air through it Vigorous- j This is the Norwegian method, and ts a Very Suecesstul one, wna is not at to give cold, as it would seem Ii at first sight. If in wi tim | should sit near the fire wit 2h halt an hour or an ho’ re > again. If in Summer time, + window, or in the open air j Same length of time, provided, of course, thet your hair washing has taken place in the daytime and not after si You must be sure that you nave an abundant supply of fresh, Warm towels, and that your hair is quite dry before it is brushed and combed. Your brusiies must be perfectly clean as well. It is better to | brash comb a small portion at a time to avoid tangles. Never have t r pat j up Ul it is dry as before y gan to Wash it If you prefer to have your hair sham- pooed by a hairdresser, be sure to only go to @ first-class man who is very particu in his methods. 1 have too often ka | terrible skin troubles, eezema, par and other s caught by peuple Were not particular over these points ing to any and every hairdresser that t | happened to be near. J much prefer having the hair property at home by # skilled maid to running any of these risks. In one instance that came under m ¢. a ter- { rifle skin eruption of this Kind was canght | at a hair ser's abroad, and, though that is over seven years age, medical skill has not yet been able to effect a cure ugh the ‘disease is beginning slowly to. yield t .cm must also be borne in mind that the shampoo wash, which may be exceuent for greasy hair, is not so effective when the | hair is ary. | —_—_—__+o._____ } A Portable Wardrobe. Foom Harper's Bazar | A friend who 1s going abroad has just made for herself what she calls wardrobe.” She frankly says th is not ort inal with her, but is an English notion, and that sh> has only copied an ar- ticle that she once saw in London. The thing is so convenient and easily made, and | the woman who travels, or who in summer | has a room in the average boarding house With the usual lack of closet space, may be glad to know exactly how this portabla is designed. | It is made of a large piece of waterproc? | cleth or canvas such as one 1 for cases, game bags and hes. This piece is five fzet long by four . and is lined with brown hojland. On right and left sides of the canvas are stitched flaps of holland like the lining, cach flap being the same width as the can- | vas, and a little over half as long. Across the top of the canvas is fastened a rod with hooks. The “wardrobe” is hung against the wall with the rod at the top, { gowns are suspended from the hooks, and the flaps are then fastened over the gowns, ich are thus securely protected against dust and dampness. At the back of this canvas Gress-preserver are suaps and a handie attached, after tha fashion of a shawl-strap. When the owner of the dresses wishes to travel she spreads her portable wardrobe on the bed, lays her skirts and waists in smoothly, buttons the flaps, rolls up the whole thing, straps it se- curely, and behold, it is ready to be carried or checked to the owner's destination.