Evening Star Newspaper, November 27, 1897, Page 19

TYPICAL NUISANCES ‘A Few Drawbacks to the Enjoyment of Theater Goers. BESIDES THE GIRL WITH THE BIG HAT There's the Man Who Always Goes Out Between the Acts. AND THERE ARE OTHERS T HEATER AUDI- ences-are as differ- ent as children or cities. Famous ac- tors and actresses have maintained, at the beginning of a week's engagement in Washington, that they fairly “loved’ Washington audi- ences. It is freely admitted here and now that Washing- ton theater audi- ences are entirely lovable, but when the same famous actors and actresses tell every city from Eastport to San Fran- cisco that they “dote upon” its audiences, the joy-diffusing singularity of the com- pliment fades. Anyhow, how are the peo- ple of the stage to adequately judge an audience? They have but one point of view—the relative degree of approval or disapproval, the comparative amount of enthu: ‘m or frigidness with which au- diences attend their efforts. A theater au- cience cannot be judged from the illumi- nated side of the footlights. The individ- vals comprising audiences only are capa- ble of doing this pioperly. And they do it. They do it in Washington, not, perhaps, with so much of asperity or ill-nature as in some of the cities where people have to bolt their dinners and dress on the way in order to reach the theater In time for the raising of the curtain—but accurately, nevertheless. They have mentally reduced the standing nuisance among play-house assemblages to the congregation of ills that must be endured, hoping for better things with the coming of a higher civil- ization. The Star was one of the pioneers in the Warfare against the high theater hat. Washington theater audiences are not now greatly afflicted in this respect. But there are otner afflictiors. Between the Acts. The man who goes out between the acts, for instance. He is a genuine grief and heartache to myriads. He is not amena- ble to reason, persuasion, supplication, but he might be to force. It may be that he tries to get an end seat when he buys his ticket, knowing his weakness; but when he fails in this, how are the twelve or fourteen people nearer to the ailse than he, upon whom he brings undeserved mis- ery, to know of it, or to derive any com- fort from the knowledge, even should he inform them of it? It is not alone that he tramples upon toes and upon shocs of seasitive patent leather, which is worse. His mere neighborhood is tion. The curtain bareiy de- the first act before he is er joins in the app the man who g the acts; iis hurry ard h great. If i the curtain comes vatches its to the When the him. eurtain comes down finally he makes his st t, the mumbling of apoiogie p. which pro! educated to a ball pi His prog is slow He is not fortu he mak le with the determination of a foot ball full back pioughing through the line. He gener- zlly takes his ove with him upon e trail drezrily upon soater muckintosh along exit, and allows it to the costumes of the ladies who do not rise to permit his pass- age to the aisle. Some of fearing worse damage parel if tney remain s to do this they : grab their the ladies do to their ap- d, and in order compelled to hastily araphernalia -- lorgnettes, . &c.—if they do not elect corts to the dismal neces- sity of groveling around on the floor in searck of the articles after Juggernaut Ras passed. The man who goes out between the acts did not gv out more than once -at one of the performances at a local theater recent- ly. His seat was the seventh from the aisle. The man who occupied the sixth Seat was a very heavy m coun- tenance benign enough in repose; but he had a very square he look- plete as- cn tap. At the conclusion of the firs t the man in the seventh seat arose te go througn his ruthless performance. ‘fhe big man in the looked at him from the corners y and then slowly arose, pushed back his seat, and Iet the amiable epolo- . as did the other five people in The ond act was pretty under way when the holder of the = seat returned iffusing the odor of cloves, and all the people in the row again arose with £ apparent docility to permit his Yesumption of his seat. But there was a queer light in the eye of the big man seat No. 6. Got Left That Time. When the curtain descended upon the second act No. 7 got up, threw his cver- coat over his arm and emitted his prelim- inary “Leg pardon." Then he stood wait- ing for a general rising along the line. ‘The rising did not take piace, and a look of surprise overspread his feacures. The big man with the square jaw was feaning tar forward in his seat, attentively studying the figures on the curtain. Ilis position in his seat did not offer any right of way whatsoever. The curtain seemed to inter- est Lim greatly. “Beg pardon, I'd like to—" ‘The big man in No. 6 drew his lorgnette on the curtain and gazed at it intently. ‘The other people in ‘he row watched the with interest. ruse me, but I want to pass—* big man adjusted the opera glass carefully, and resumed his scrutiny of the in. There was a general titter. ay, do you know that I want to—" re-jawed man slowly turned his d No. * he inquiced in a deep bass voice but I'm going to—* Oh, you're coming back, “Well, I guess yes, afier The big man, still leaning far forward in’ his seat and making a barrier for No. @ that nothing short of a derrick could re- move, took up his lorgnette and resumed his examination of the cu.cain. “In that * said h ‘ou can fly cut, or you can get a balloon, or you can crawl out underneath the seats, or you can send @ note by one of the ushers to the man you're going to see; but the one thing that you can’t do is to pass by me until the curtain falls on the last act of this per- then?” formance—not unless you think you are able to put me to sleep, you can’t!" The music of the orchestra served to drown the little ripple of applause from all the neighboring seats. No. 7 tried to Jook very ferocious, but oniy succeeded in looking very silly. He sat cuwn and bit his nails during the rest of the play. But he remained in his seat until the play was over. Always Come Late. The men and women who make it a point to arrive at the theater late are named le- gion, it must be cor fessed, in Washingion. These people are also well handled on the other side of the sca. If they arrive at the theaters of continental Europe after the curtain has r‘sen on the first act, they are not permitted to take their seats until the curtain kas descended upon the first act. The late arrivals rarely or never have seats upon the aisle, so that when they show up at the point when the maid with the feather duster is fortelling the whole plot of the play in her flirtation with the stage butler—vital information for the au- dience to have at finger-ends to properly understand what comes after—their seat- taking and wrap-removing and general settling in their places is a distraction that the rest of the audience never appreciates. It has been observed that the late arrivals, especially the feminine late arrivals, are always rather sumptuously appareled. Wonder fas occasionally been expressed as to whether there is any psychological connection between this fact and their tar- diness. The young woman who knows all about the play, and tells all she knows in a Hi- bernian whisper between the acts, is not unknown to Washingtonians. She was here on Monday night, but it was so per- fectly splendid that she had to come again. Wait till the third act! Perfectly gor- geous! Sir Reginald, the hero, has a ra- pier duel with the villain, and gets wound- ed, and, Min, honest, it looks just liké sure enough blood on his shirt! But he goes on with the duel—just the noblest thing you ever saw!—and runs the villain through! Absolutely awful! 'N then Gladys, the he- roine, comes in, and sees the horrid blood Sumptuously Attired. en Sir Reginald’s shirt—one of those cute, ruffled shirts, y’know—and sho falls in his arms, fainting—perfectly exquisite!—and then the curtain comes down. 'N then, in the fourth act, Gladys’ father finds out that all the awful stories about Sir Regi- nald’s gambling and drinking and all that are the awfulest stories—all made up by the villain, y’ see—n Sir Reginald comes back from India, just too handsome for anything, with his hair all silvered around the sides and temples, 'n he meets Gladys aceidentally, And so on, forever. the victnage of the garrulous girl with the Hibernian whisper may grind their teeth, and the ladies with them may dart their The men sitting in glances of flame, but all to no avail. This young woman, by the way, belongs to the handful of members of her sex who st in wearing big hats to the The Man Who Laughs. “It is to laugh” is a phrase that is thor- oughly understood by Washington theater- goers who have heard the cachinnatory gymnastics of a bald-headed man of great stature and girth yho has been attending most of the humorous pieces ters of the capital for the past two or three years. He bas a laugh that has frequently “broken up” the performers on the stage. During the performance of a comic opera here recently he had a seat ont row. He did not get well under ith his laugh during the first act, although he emitted several tremendous guffaws that riveted the attention of the house upor hin. But the second act cap- tured him, hoi foot and marines, and laugh ‘bec mche from t of the curtain. huge, Gargan- st bellowing laugh of a giant, ris tuan, the Tells the Plo mello as a bell, clearly genuine and from the depths of the man’s big nature, and it Was as well worth listening to as the opera, gocd as the opera was. It was a continuous performance laugh—not hysterical, but simply unstoppable. It drowned the music of the orchestra. It was so infectious that every man and woman in the large audi- ence began to laugh in unison. The or- chestra musicians got to laughing, and so cid the conductor, and the music ceased. Stil the big man’s roars, his organ-deep bursts of merriment, went on. He held his sides, and his face looked like Old King Cole's in the picture books, the tears of laughter streaming down his cheeks. The chorus from giggling burst into en to shrieks; the principals, turning ce the rear of the stage, displayed shoul- rs shaking with laughter. The opera was positively at a standstill, the whole house frcm pit to dome in an uproar of hilarity, and the vast tones of the big man in the front seat topping the tumult like a basso obligato. When he saw that he was simply blocking the show, he arose in his seat, which was on the aisle, grabbed his over- The Lachrymose Spectator. coat, bat and cane, all the time laughing tremendously, and walked out the center aisle, fairly bawling, followed by the ap- piause of the whole house, and cries of “Come back!’ But it is probably better to laugh at the theater then it is to weep. There is wecp- ing a-plenty at the Washington theaters. The young man who does not enjoy the sight of red eyes and pink noses is learn- ing in his day and generation not to take ais sweetheart to see such “Camille,” for instance. Perhaps the ys as young women who, after performing all their lit- household duties and getting every- thing arranged and in order, deliberatel adjourn to their boudoirs for the express purpose of having that mysterious and Paradoxical thing, a “good cry,” enjoy the same as much at the theater as elsewhere; but it never makes them prettier, espe- cially. when they emerge from a matinee into the cold, searching Nght of a gray day. The man who weeps at the theater is not unknown to Washington theatecr- goers, either. He always carries a very large cambric handkerchief for his lach- rymose exercises, and he always looks like the Rev. Mr. Chadband, with a receding chin and a loose mouth. The weepy man at the theater is unspeakably distressing to the man who doesn’t weep. ‘The man who wears an exceedingly heavy uister to the theater, and who throws three-quarters of it over the back of his seat, so that it almost completely envelops the man or woman sitting directly behind bim, is a patron of the Washington thea- ters. So is the man who, before starting for the theater, dines heartily upon the vegetable, in its raw state, that is falla- ciously supposed to be indigenous solely to Bermuda. So is the very young wife, with the extremely yourg baby—at matinees. So is the man whose dinner consists of thirteen gin slings and a sardine sand- wich, and wro goes to sleep and snores, So is the man who always wants some other man’s seat, whether or no, and kicks up a row over it. So is the girl with the thirty-six chatelaine articles, that Jingle Jike sleigh bells when the heroine is dying to slow music. So is— So is the sufferer at the hands of all of these. —_—_— COSTLY CHANGES. Enormous Losses Caused in Keeping Armies Up to Date. From the Philadelphia Press, In no private business and in no other branch of the government service are such enormous losses possible as in the army and navy. Wher a new gun or a new system cf fortification is devised the old is abandon- ed forever, and the value which it repre- sented is a total loss. The British navy, not long ago, declared obsolete a certain type of torpedo. In do- ing so it discarded torpedoes which had cost it about £150,000, or $750,000. The costliest cha:uge which the govern- ment of the United States ever made was when it discarded the muzzle-loading rifle for the breech-loader, and the smooth-bore cannon for the rifled gun at the end of the civil war. The heavy ordnance discarded at that time represented an investment of many millions—it would be difficult to say just how much. The discarded muskets were about a million and a half in number, and their cost had been from $12 to $18. At an average of $15 they were worth, or- iginally, $22,500,000. Of this sum about one-third or one-qua! ter was recovered by the sale of the guns to other nations in time of war, so the ac- tual loss to the government was $15,000,000. Tnese guns, it is true, had been used in the war, and presumably the government had got $15,000,000 worth of service out of them; but they were in good condition and might have been used by our little stand- ing army of 25,000 men for half a century if the style had not changed. The Springfield rifle cost a little more than the old-style musket. It was replaced by a magazine gun of small caliber and high velocity. The old guns were not dis- carded wnen the new ones came in. They are “as good as gold,” says General Flag- jer, the chief of ordnance of the army. They were put through the armory, where all worn parts were replaced, and 90 per cent of them were restored to prime condi- tion. They will be kept in reserve for use in time of trouble. The officers of the gov- ernment will not even say how many of them there are, for fear foreign nations should base on that information an esti- mate of our fighting resources. Some of the oid heavy ordnance still has uses, but most of it has been sold for old iron or given away. Three hundred and Seventy-eight guns have been given away, principally to Grand Army posts; also 132 gun carriages, and about 9,000 shells. This ordnance, like the muskets, had seen good service, and, besides, its original was comparatively small. An old ‘ch smooth-bore cost about $1,500, hile an eight-inch modern rifle gun costs x”). There is an amazing difference in fficiency of the two, however. The smooth-bore was a fifty-six-pounde one-half pounds of pow gun of the same caliber and uses 135 pounds of the ald and used ten and der. is powder. Whensthe Navy department adopted a new rifle recently, it turned the old rifles aver to the naval militia. There were more than 5,000 of them, and they were worth The modern W-pounder, about o”). Even if there had been no militia to equip, the loss by this change would have been comparatively small. There are ten thousand of the new rifles, includingthose for the Marine Corps, and they cost about $175,000. At the end of the war the Navy Depart- ment did not forthwith tumble overboard the old cast-iron cannon and substitute the modern built-up gun. The change has been gradual, and some of the old guns are still in use on our ships of war. Nor were the wooden ships of the old navy discarded, ex- cept as they wore out. The ships of the new navy are of the very latest design, and cost $250,000 to $5,000,000 each. It is not likely that conditions will arise which will render them entirely obso- lete. As for our four-inch to thirteen-inch » Which cost the government from ‘X) to $60,000 each, the only changes likely to cccur are in their mechanism, and these are small compared with the total cost of the gun. Still any day some genius may come to the front with a wholly new construction which will leave millions of dollars’ worth of heavy ordnance practi- cally useless on our hands. e+ A Battery of Glass Guns. From Tit-Bits. A battery of glass guns was fired in 1837, at Stockton-on-Tees, on the occasion of the rejoicings which took place on the corona- tion of Her Majesty Queen Victorla. A grand demonstration was made at Stock- ton, in which the principal trades in the district walked in procession, each man carrying some product of his particular trade. The glassmakers from Haverton Hill (about four miles from Stockton) were the most noticeable. First marched a man carrying a beautifully colored glass crown on a red silk velvet cushion, guarded by a man on each side with a drawn sword (made of glass); then followed the glass works band, dressed in blue coats, white trousers and coronation handkerchiefs; these were followed by a small seml-circu- lar battery mounted with four small glass cannon, which were loaded and fired at the commencement of the procession and at intervals afterward. A glass cage, with a canary singing as blithely as if‘at home, came next, and then a church, peal of bells, and numerous other emblems of glass handicraft. Each glassmaker wore a glass s on his breast and a glass feather in his hat. Shortly afterward the glass works at Haverton Hill were closed, and the glass battery was taken to Newcastle-on-Tyne, where it served as a public house sign, the house being called the ‘‘Battery Inn,” and situate near Messrs. Wright Brothers’ &iass works in the Forth. On the 12th of September, 1823, a procession of glasscut- ters took place through the streets of New- castle and Gateshead. Many of the men wore glass hats. When the procession ar- rived at its destination a salute was fired from glass cannon. _——e0-_____ Economical, From Sketch. “Now, porter, you may put that box in the brake, and I'll have the other things in the carriage with me.” THE CARRIAGE AT WORK. SHIPS IN MINIATURE To Be Tested in a Big Tank at the Navy Yard. OF GREAT VALUE 70 DESIGNERS In the Matter of Fixing Upon the Most Desirable Models. INTERESTING EXPERIMENTS Written for The Evening Star. * T HAS COST THE government over three millions of dol- lars in speed pre- miums to verify by performance the cal- culations of the de- signing bureaus of » the Navy Depart- 4 Ment; but hereafter, ieby means of the ex- ‘perimental model *tank at the navy yard, in this city, the «possibilities of the Bt heaviest ot our future ships may be deter- mined to a nicety. °/! The last regular session of Congress com- pleted a total provision of $100,000 for the construction of. thig. experimental plant, and by industrious work the establishment has already béen hastened half way to completion, Eagtly within a year the place will be ready for praetical application. For years such a plant has been recoge nized by the principal European naval pow- ers as a ‘necessity, and the praiseworthy performance of our ships reflects all the more credit upon our designers, handicap- ped as they have been by the lack of such practical facilities. Much as mathematical science has done in other directions, it still is unequal to the solutions of all the dif- ficult questions involved in the motion of a body in water; and it is only by practical experiments that the forces at work can be rightly measured and divided among the elements of wave motion, surface friction and mechanical propulsion. Based upon the investigations of the late Dector William Froude of England, it is known that the performance of a model bears a mathematical ratio to the perform- ance of a full-sized ship; and, by multiply- ing the known functions of the miniature by its ratio to the proposed craft, the possi- bilities and peculiarities of the contemplat- ed vessel are predetermined beyond ques- tion. What this may mean when peculiar forms of hull or exceptional speeds are in- volved is easily grasped even by the lay- man, and the discovery of what must be expected of a ship built upon those lines ™May mean the success or ruin of a vast enterprise. The application of the model tank applies as well to merchamt craft as to naval vessels, and it is the purpose of the Navy Department to place the estab- lishment at the disposal of civilian and commercial undertakings. Ahead of All Others. The present tank may truly be sald to be the result of the persistent efforts of Chief Constructor Hichborn, and, following out his direction, the plant will be at once upon a scale and of a character considerably in advance of anything now extant abroad. The completed structure will consist pri- marily of a concrete-lined basin, surround- ed by a one-story brick building, which is surmounted by a, steel-trussed roof of an approved pattern. The building is 500 feet long and 50 feet wide, with two small extensions for the installation of the ventilating, heating, pumping, filtering and power plants. By this means the main body of the structure is left unhampered for the experimental work. The main basin ts 370 feet long and 43 feet wide, and will have a uniform depth of 14 feet. At either end there will be a narrow, shoal extension, one 70 feet long and 6 feet wide, from whicn the trial runs will be started, and the other 34 feet long and & feet wide, into which the mod: will be carried upon the completion of ihe runs. The latter extension will have no special features; but at the staring end there will be a pit on each side and at the rear for the purpose of providing conven- ient means for measuring the models as they float in the basin preparatory to the trials. There, too, will be a standard weighing apparatus for adjusting and standardizing the dynamometer, which measures the resistance of the models or the correlative, the power required to tow them at their several speeds. . On the inner lp, sa.to speak, of the main foundation of copcrete, will rest the tracks upon which the earriage will travel during the runs. These_tracks, of which there are two on each side of the basin, extend from end to end of the building, and are of the heaviest ratlroad; type. and are so fastened to the foundatiog as a make them as near- ly rigid as possible. The object of this is to obtain a surface over, which the carriage— which spans the basin and tows the models may be run af high.speeds and with the least amount of, jar... This is essential to the proper worl the necessarily deli- cate instruments that register and record accuiately the various elements of the trials. Seat g The Towing Carriage. The towing carriage 1s also rigidly con- structed, and is’ driven by electric motors run on the trolley system. There are four of these motors. Two will be needed for runs at speeds from 1 to 12 knots, while all four will be required frem that up to the maximum of 20 knots. It may ba stated here that a 20-knot run on the part of a model is the correlative of a speed of perhaps 40 knots or more in the contem- Plated craft. The dynamometer for measuring the re- istance of the models, the apparatus for recording the results and the necessary fix- tures and electrical arrangements required are grouped on a platform at the center of the carriage. This platform can be raised or lowered to suit the various models. In addition to these more simple experi- ments, arrangements will be provided for testing the functions or qualities of the models; the effects of propellers of various sorts and at different and their re- lations to the form of the hull about the stern where the waier runs into the screws, and also to tell what proportionate part of the total resistance of the model is due to friction of the under-water surface, what to wave resistance and what to eddies. Value of the Tank. All of these things must be taken into consideration in determining the best form for a ship and the corresponding econom- ical speed for that form; and from this some modest notion may be got of what the naval architect has to provide for and consider. In the absence of a tank, he must make the most of the known per- formance of otner ships, and appreximate the possibilities of his intepded craft as best his judgment can. Pretty guess-work and some wonderfully clever forethought alone are the basis upon which our own successful ships have been p'anned sv far: and one natural!y wonders what might not have been accomplished nad we had these absolute, practical facilities. The models to be experimented upon will be as nearly as possible of a uniform length of twenty feet as an even scale proportionate to the full-sized craft will allow. For instance, a vessel 156 feet long will have a model on an eighth scale, that is 19% feet long, while a craft 38% feet long will have a model on a nineteenth scale, or 20.1 feet long. They will be of pine woud accurately cut, by a special machine, from the lines of the proposed vessel and .hen carefully measured and checked before be- ing launched into the basin. They will then be prepared in the balancing basin prior to starting and nicely ballasted so as to accurately represent the intended craft when She is ready for her trial. The advantages to be gained by experi- menting with such apparatus, both from a scientific and a practical point of view, are clear. Help to the Designer. It is easy to say that because a certain vessel steamed so fast another of similar form and even power will go at the same speed under like conditions, or it is pos: ble to approximate clesely, even when de- parting to some extent from a strict par- allel, by reasoning from past experiences. Undoubtedly many fine ships have been designed and built, but the fact remains that the question of speed and coal con- sumption nave in many cases varied widely from that expected. Perhaps, in some cases, the actual results could not have been foreseen or provided against in any event, but it is possible, even certain, that many failures could have been prevented had the designs first been tested and proved or disapproved by models in the manner proposed. It is in connection with radical changes of form and conditions as to power, draft ef water, etc., and with designs wherein the limits are closely drawn that the value of the basin becomes paramount. Ten years ago, any one suggesting thirty knots as being possible of attainment with a self- propellel vessel would have been considered visionary. Today, contracts are being made for vessels with a guaranty of even higher speed; and who can say what is to be the possible limit? For strictly commercial purposes, how- ever, where the desiderata are maximum speed with large carrying capacity on a moderate expenditure of power and a light consumption of coal, the value of model trials is of prime importance, as they would aiso be where the attainment of exception- ally high speed were the prerequisite. HOWARD P. ELWELL. Copyright, 1897. —_->-——_ THE OCEAN AND THE WEATHER. Influence of the Former on the Lat- ter an Important Topic. Not the least remarkable and important of the researches that are now being con- ducted by scientific men the world over are those of Prof. Otto Pettersson, in asso- c:ation with the labors of Swedish, Nor- wegian, German, Danish and _ British oceanograpkers, on the relation existing between the surface temperature of the sea and atmospheric disturbances. This is shown to be most intimate, as even a com- paratively insignificant change of tempera- ture in the surface waters, whether in the upward or in the downward scale, affects the overlying air columns in a most mark- ed manner—to the extent, indeed, of pro- ducing cyclonic movements. From a large number of observations made in particular cases, and from the still more important long-period averages of data obtained at Danisn, Norwegian and British coast sta- tions, it is established almost conclusively that where warm oceanic water has from any cause been brought into the North sea cr the Baltic in specially large quantities in autumn, the weather of the following winter has been marked by an unusually large number of cyclones and accompany- ing mild weather. if, on the contrary, there is a surplusage of cold fresh water, brought down by the streams of the land and distributed over the sea surface, then a hard, cold winter characteristic of anti-cyclonic conditions follows, with a displacement westward of the true cyclonic movement. The warm winter of 1894 was preceded and accompa- nined by the presence of vast quantities of warm oceanic water in the North sea; during the intensely cold winter of the fol- lowing year (1895), on the other hand, the southern of the North sea was entirely filled th fresh cold waters, chiefly derived from the land. ‘The importance of these observations cannot be overstated, and while much yet remains to be accomplished before exten- sive practical use can be made of them, or perhaps even a hypothesis established or proved, there is reason to believe, with Mrs. Dickson, who hes reviewed the evi- dence, that before long a limited number of observations, judiciously selected as to time and place, will enable us to forecast with confidence, not the weather for a day or a few days, but the general character of & season, whether the winter is to be mild or severe, and possibly also whether the summer is to be wet or warm. Arrange- ments are now being completed for mak- ing a most extended series of observations in different parts of the North Atlantic during 1898. As evidence of the interest that is being taken in these researches, and of the importance that is attached to them, it might be stated that in a period of ten months of the years 1895-96 upward of 1,600 samples of surface water, most of the product brought together gratuitously by captains and other officers of vessels interested in the work, had been transmit- ted to Prof. Pettersson for examination and analysis. The science of oceanography seems likely to enter upon a new field of usefulness, and it is with good reason that scientists are loudly advocating in its be- half the study of the entire oceanic sur- face, but especially that part of it which in its varying conditions is as yet least known to us and which Nes in the Arctic and Antarctic tracts. en eases I dst enter mn senha cnteehmetenmansichmenonen, “onnnsuteiantetatnsetesstespuesnoneeneeeeeaseacesaeeacnrseweeeneesecante . TO BE IN STYLE The “sreect Attire for Men Who Dress Well. SOME INVIOLABLE RULES Popular Patterns for Morning, Af- ternoon and Evening. COLORS AND MATERIALS as From the Sertorial Art Journal. Between correct morning attire and either afternoon or evening dress, there is as marked difference as there is between a silk hat and a derby. A suit which will be much in evidence, and also, perhaps, more distinctly swell than any other, is the business-cutaway frock suit; or, as it is more frequently termed, the morning suit. The coat of this suit is long waisted and short skirted, gen- erally has a whole back, and, as a rule, has long and wide flaps on the waist-seam which cover pockets, though frequently the flaps are placed slantingly below the seam; occasionally, however, it is made without flaps. The roll is heavy, but of medium length, and the fronts, which have four buttons, though they close with three only, are but slightly cut away. The shoulders, which are very broad, are high, and round- ed in effect; the edges are double stitched; the seams are lapped and single stitched wide; the sleeve finish is a two or a three button vent, and the buttons are of horu. The vest will some- times be double and single . The form- er will have broad, well pointed, sewed. on iapeis, ani the buttons will be set wide apart at the end of the roil, but much closer together at the bottom. The latter may have a notched collar, or be collariess; the no-co!- lar style, which has ‘2 short opening, is very popular, ani its popularity is rapidly increasins. Whether double or single breasted, the pockets may be finished with elther flaps or welts. The trousers will be of liberal width at the hips, and will taper in straight lines to the bottom, which will be moderately narrow. They will generally average about 1) inches in width at the knee and 17 at the bottom, though some of our leading tailcrs are making them wider at the knee, and giving to them a ccided ‘pegtop effect Tweeds and cheviois, generally in over- plaids, but not intre ly in plain mt be the fa is for but unless we are greatly mis- veral varieties of black and white Striped cheviots and worsteds will be fre- i . however, will ve l vesting, of a fancy Ik and worsted. of moleskin er of coréeuroy. coat and trou- sers will be land, and the vest from a a ; but gun-club checks aad fancy worsteds will frequently be used for the. material, and one popular, is a fancy whip cord for the coat and trousers, to be worn with a fancy mixed silk and worsted vest. The sack suit, though more conservative than the one we have just described, will be more generally worn. The shorter and more “bobby” in ap than it was last season, and has broad, high and well-rounded shoulders, which strongly contrast with the hig shoulder corners of the Engli: ment. Our transatlantic cousins sow inake the style of shoulder which they ridiculed for years as the “American shoulder,” a style that has not been fashionable -n this country for a generation; but they seem never to have discovered the fact that it long ago ceased to be a charac’ istic of American tailoring. The sack is shapely in the back, seeming to taper from the shoulders to the waist, and it is mod- erately close-fitting about the hips. The roll is broad and moderately short, and the fronts, whether they close with three or four buttons, are not much cut away below the lowest one. The artistic tailor enGeavors so to make this coat as to give to the wearer as tall, broad-shouldered and athletic an appearance as possible. There is no outside breast pocket, as a rule; but there is a growing tendency to replace this pocket in garments of this kind. The vest and the trousers for this suit are the same as for the business cutaway frock suit al- ready described. The conventional three-button cutaway frock will, of course, be frequently seen, as it is, strictly speaking, a morning dress This coat is of medium waist length, and has skirts which average one inch less in length than the back length to the The shoulders, like those of its '-brotker, the business cutaway, and those of the sack, are broad, high and well rounded. The favorite materials for this coat are soft vicunas, rough Shetlands, lambs’ wools, gray thibets and unfinished worsteds. The vest will generally be dou- ble-breasted and of the same material as the coat; but fancy veStings will find much favor for it. The single-breasted vest is, of course, correct, made from either mi teria, and wili be the more fancied by men of conservative taste, especially by those who are no longer liable to be charged with youthfulness. The trousers will be made from every fashionable variety of moderately light-colored worsted, or wool fabric, in stripes, plaids and checks. For Afternoon. * ‘The double-breasted frock is the on!y unimpeachably correct coat for afternoon dress, but the three-button cutaway frock crippled ontside may live a long life but the wan who is crippled inside is taking a short cutto the grave. Dr. Pierce's Gol very organ healthy and vigorous. it makes blood and builds up to the healthy standard. Honest dealers don recommend substitutes. “<1 wish to say to those who suffer from kid) and bladder trouble Pieces Dr. Anderson, . A patient of mine r bottle to any oue who is . taki the “Di and now is one of the hanpical men in this County. Prof. Chreine would gladly sign this if he were in town. He requested me to write a testimonial and make it as strong a3 the Engtish language could make xt.” A $3.50 home doctor-book FREE. For a paper-covered copy of Dr. Pierce’s Common Sense Medical Adviser send 21 one-cent stamps, to cover cost of mailing om/y. Cloth binding to cents extra. Address Dr. R. V. Pierce, Buffalo, N. Y. strictly speaking, a half-dress ternoon wear. The double-breasted frock is now made with skirts to fall to the knees, with only a very moderate amount of drapery. The shoulders, as for all other coats, are broad, though less so than for business coats, and are high amd round. The silk generally extends to the buttonholes only, but it is sometimes carried to the cdgea. As a rule, the edges are blind-stitched, but harrow, flat braiding is increasing in pop- ularity. The favorite material for this coat is @ rough black or gray tweed in a terrapin, basket or diagonal twill; but cheviots, rough Shetlands, vicunas and undressed worsteds are also well liked. For street wear the collar is sometimes of velvet, but as a rule it is of the same material as the body of the coat. ‘The vest may be double or single-breast- ed, as previously described, but the latt will always have a notched collar. It m: be made in either style from the same ma- terial as the coat, or from a fancy vesting, but fancy silks are more popular than ever before. The trousers, as for morning dress, are loose at the hips, tapering with bat’ slight shape to narrow bottoms, and they are made from the same class of trouser- ings. The cutaway frock is made from the same materials as those just named, and ts the same style as for morning dress. Tne correct vest 2nd trousers to wear with it are the same as for the double-breasted frock. coat for af For Evening. No other suit than that of full evening dress can properly be worn at any social function, after 6 o'clock in the evening, with one exception, which is merely tol- erated. It is not quite a sartorial crime to wear a Tuxedo,if the wearer has been or is going to a stag dinner. The @ress coat is now generally made with peaked lapels; the shawl-roll style being seldom called for even by young men, though it is still unimpeachably rect cor- It has moder- ely broad shoulders, which are a ‘trifle s hich and round- ed than for day dress, and is of medium length, ex- tending to just above the bend of the knees. The peaked lapel style is silk faced, as a rule, to the edge, and has a self-covered collar, but the collar and lapels are sometimes all sili and frequently the silk extends only to the buttonholes. The skirts are moderately wide at the bottom, and the edges are gen- erally blindstitched, though cording and narrow binding are sometimes used. The newest thing in this coat is to make the roll concave on the edge, so as to expose wider expanse of shirt bosom; but this style is not yet popular. The vest may be either single or double-breasted, and of the same material as the coat or of a dress vesting. As a rule it is single-breasted if of the former, and double-breasted if of the latter material, In either ©: t has a wide shield-shaped opening. The single- breasted vest has the edges ornamented with one or two rows of fancy braid, if the material is the same as for the coat, but the double- breasted vests are generally single stitched. The trou- sers are much more shapely than for day dress, and have the side ‘seams finished with one or two rows of braid, as a rule, though ‘a perfectly plain finish is correct, and is pre- ferred) by many whose taste is con- servative. The favorite material with the “exclu- sives” for the coat and trousers is a black angora—a very attractive novelty in this raterial is black with a gray thread run- ning through it—but worsteds with a fine twill, undressed worsteds and thibets are chiefly used. For the vest, fancy dark and fancy light silks are very popular, but Lrocaded silks, mostly plain, though some- times fancy, are in large demand. The Tuxedo will generally have peaked tupels, silk faced to the edge and some- times it will have the collar of silk al but the shawl-collar style will be const erably in evidence, with, of course, an all- silk roll. It is not considered quite good fcrm, by some who rank high in the worl of fashion, to wear a fancy white silk vest with this coat; but so many do it that the practice cannot justly be considered an offense either against good taste or propri- ety. l vi helt é 78 ig jaw,—says Mr. 0. HL at 714 Eighteenth st., Galvest He was three times provou! by prominent physicians, but ful disease always returned; be OTSPRINGS fallen out, and he was in a sad pil After taking one bottle of 8. 8. 8. SS Book on the disease and its treatment mailed eeareitEr g BELEE iacieeilil is tolerated for that purpose. The latter 12, | tree by Swift Specific Co.. Atlanta, Ga.