Evening Star Newspaper, November 27, 1897, Page 15

HLM The Queen of England. Fre risa ctwies FIVE O'CLOCK TEA-GOWN, ‘Gpecial design for H.R IT. The Duchess of ott) wy Coprrizht, et, by A. MPaltwin, (urann Mammo, Dublin) FOR INDOOR WEAR Some Recent Styles in Neglige Gowns and Jackets. ADAPTED FROM THE RUSSIAN BLOUSE A Pleasing Model That Was Made for the Duchess of York. DAINTY SILK PETTICOATS _——— Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. DUBLIN, November 17.—Even the tea- gown, which so far has failed to bow in obedience before the dictates of fashion and has followed solely the individual taste of its fair wearer, has now adopted the Russian style. Many charming models droop in blouse fashion and are closed on the left shoulder and down the left side after the style of the Russian street gar- ments now so universally popular. The design which we publish today rep- resents a 5 o'clock tea gown included in the winter wardrobe of H. R. H. the Duchess of York. Soft blue and white matelasse constitutes this gown. The Russian bodice is inserted with handsome cream lace and white rib- bon, as are also the panels of the skirt. The elbow sleeves have deep ruffles of soft white lisse and epaulets of the same dainty material, accordion pleated. On the chest is attached a large bow of lisse, the long ends of which form the tablier. The long Watteau train is also of matelasse. The somewhat neglected zouave jacket is still very much favored on tea or negli- &e toilets, particularly with empire gowns worn by young ladies. Of India Silk. A white India silk is made in short- waisted empire fashion. The full skirt shirred to the short, round bodice, is un- lined and falls in long, graceful folds to the hem, where {ft is pinned with fine gold embroidery. The bodice is loose over a tigat .ning and is cut with a slight square decollete bordered by a full ruche of white mousse- line de soie. The short zouave jacket of white velveteen is richly embroidered with gold soutache and opens over the loose blouse front of the bodice. The sieeve on the zouave jacket is quite tight and reaches just above the elbow, where it is attached on the upper arm and permits the full puff sleeve of white India silk to gush out from beneath. The full- ness is confined above the wrist by a tight gold-embroidered band. Another novel tea gown represents the Japanese style, modified and modernized. It is composed of pale salmon-pink silk, embroidered with Japanese figures in gold ! ana pale blue and is cut “a Ia princesse.” The front crosses with broad revers of pale blue tin, leaving a deep V-shaped decollete, Which is filled in by folded pale blue gauze. The Watteau fold at the back finishes in a long train and the Japanese sleeves of salmon satin are lined with pale blue satin and full ruches of pale blue gauze. A girdle of gold-embroidered Japa- nese silk loosely encircles the waist, is knotted on the left side and falls in long fringed ends to the hem of the garment. Becoming Neglige. Another most important and useful ar- ticle for a lady’s wardrobe is the neg.ige, or tea jacket, for what woman has not re- turned from out-of-door occupation and experienced the comfort of changing her tight bodice with the loose and graceful jacket which permits thorough rest and ease? It may be made in light or dark silk or cloth, plain or elaborate, and the form is generally loose or with the tight back only. The most approved form is the Watteau with a yoke of lace or embroidery—for the special article in garniture this season on outdoor as well as indoor dress is the square yoke. It may be varied in design, but it must be a yoke. Some are very large and cover the jacket or bedice from one armhole to the other, and some have small elongated pieces recalling the bolero, and some again finish with straight bands down either side of the closing in front to the hem, and the present fad for ribbon and lace trimmings offers chances for charming additional dec- oration. Taffeta satin and printed silks are used for. the most elegant neglige and tea jackets; changeable grounds, brocades, stripes and plaids are as appropriate as plain goods. No color is too bright nor fig- ure too large to use for this purpose, and the loose front of contrasting goods seen in so many of these jackets may be of surah, habutal, taffeta, gauze or Japanese silk. A Dainty Tea Jacket. A’charming and practical example in gray cashmere has a fitted back and loose fronts and a square yoke of heavy cream lace. The sleeves are full and gathered at the wrists in bands of lace. Ruffs of cerise mousseline de soie are around the neck and wrists and full pleated ends of the same material fall from the throat. A new and serviceable idea is to have the neglige jacket and silk underskirt to match. Silk petticoats differ from those worn in preceding years, more in shades than in the materials of which they are made. ‘There are two distinct lines of these, the simple walking, or morning, petticoat and the elaborate, dressy petticoat for evening or visiting wear. The walking petticoat is, as a rule, of shot silk or satin with corded flounce of the same about twelve inches in depth. This flounce is sometimes veiled by a second flounce of black or white lace. Thus an almond-green satin, embossed in white oriental design, has a black Chantilly flounce over one of light glace silk. ‘The accompanying jacket of the same green satin is made in loose Mother Hub- bard style, the yoke being of the silk veiled with black lace, while a full ruche of white mousseline de soie encircles the neck and wrist. (ALFRED Manning, Dublin.) THE FEMININE KEYNOTE. Mod te Your Voices, Women With the Strident Tones. From the Philadelphia Record. If women heeded half the good advice they read there weuld by this time have been a marked improvement in their voices, but like the Nereides, who forever dipped up water in their sieves, the average wo- man takes in at one ear and lets out at the other all those little admonitions which she does not wish to hearken unto, and it is not pleasant to be so often told that we haven't charming voices, like our English cousins. ‘The truth is not always palatable, but when it is the truth about something quite in our power to remedy we ought surely to be willing to mend our ways. A woman who is conscious that she speaks in a high- pitched, unnatural key in common con- Versation must also be conscious that she eculd do otherwise if she chose. By lower- ing the pitch a tone or two, persistently checking the impuise to break bounds into a shrill staccato register, that ends in a veritable screech, you may go on improv- ing from day to day till your friends begin to compliment you en your mellow tones, and men, especially, will be quick to ap- Preciate the charm of that “low, sweet Voice, an excellent thing in woman.” Applicants must now pass an examina- tion in music in order to become a teacher in the public schocls, but that is te teach the children to sing, and has nothing to do with training them in the art of vocal in- tcnatien in common speech, and we as a people are ourselves conscious of our lack of inflections. Aleng with grammatical correctness of speech why not instill the importance of equally cultivating the medium through which verbal euphony fs transmitted? If this is neglected in the schools it should surely not be so in the home, and the child, after all, is certain to catch its mother's way of talking, be that strident and cmide, or delightifully cultivated In tone and modi- fied in those bristling r’s that multiply themselves in the mouths of westerners like burrs about the chestnut. Soften your voice, and you soften your ac- cent. —_———-e--_____ ‘The Theater Hat in France. Icndon Telegraph's Paris Correspondence. ‘The mayor of Montpellier has been called upon to deal with a very thorny problem, and he has acquitted himself with conspic- uous tact and with genuine Gallic gallantry as well. The question is not one that is limited to Montpellier. It is exercising the winds of theater managers and of male Dlay-goers all over France. The volumi- Rous hats so beloved just now by the Graceful sex mey set off beauty, but they bar the vision of would-be spectators seat- ed behind the wearers of these ribboned, flowered and plumed triumphs of the mil- liner’s art, and there is considerable heart- burning in consequence. Everything at its proper time, argue the victimized men. We are glad to admire the ladies, but we want to see the play as well; and if they would only be a little more accommodating we could do both in the self-same evening. Now, the mayof of Montpellier has not issued a decree full of remonstrances and threats, for he can well guess, worthy man, what this would lead to. He has | adopted a far more pleasant and Politic course. In the neat little address which he has just published he says that he has the honor of respectfully inviting the la- dies attending theatrical performances to leave their hats in the cloak rooms Placed at their disposal, and he mildly adds the expression of the hope that they will pontaneously”’ adopt the measure, which is intended to prevent any demon- stration calculated to disturb the tranquil- lity of the play. The result of this kindly appeal may be awaited with confidence. soo The Young Man Lied. From the Philadelphia Record. An amusing incident occurred a few ‘days ago at Broad street station. An old gentle- man while passing through the waiting room stooped and picked up a ten-dollar note from the floor and quickly put it in his trousers pocket. A young man nearby noticing this, at once claimed the money as his, but the old gentleman's opinion on that point was somewhat different, and a heated argument ensued. The matter was explained to a ticket agent at the window, who referred the two disputants to the head agent to settle the question of own- ership. They were ushered into the private office of the arbiter. After a lively discus- sion, the old gentleman finally became in- dignant, and, drawing his hand from his pocket, he threw the note on the desk, ex- claiming: “Here, take the old $10!" As the agent was unfolding the note a large smile overspread his features, and he showed them it was not a ten-dollar note at all, but a clever advertisement of a leading house in this city. The young man’s face flushed scarlet, and neither looking right from nor left, he unceremoniously rushed the office, through the depot, end disap- peared. . —_~+o-____. Not Enough. From Puck. Kind Lady—“I am sure you would learn to love my children.” Nurse—“What wages do you pay?” wind Le SR ol ce eye @ month.” jurse—“I em afraid, ma’ could only be affectionate with them at thet Price.” HOUSEHOLD HINTS New Ways to Decorate an Old Friend. GOOD DINNER AND A WARM HOUSE Winter Cheer With Tempting Dishes and Well Tended Furnace. SOME THINGS TO KNOW Written for The Evening Star. The rage for sofa pillows grows by what it feeds on, and the shops overflow with pillows of every size und dimension, and covers of every material, color and design imaginable. No college boy or girl feels his or her harpiness complete unless fifteen or twenty of these luxurious aids to rest, adorned by skillful fingers, fill every chair, couch, window seat and corner of their rooms. A sophomore, with room already veluminously provided, carried back ten new pillows this fall, as the result of her summer’s work. Some of the new ideas are especially dainty, while others are marked by originality that gives them added vaiue in t'e eyes of their possesor. A “poster” pillow, for the college boy, is in great de- mand, evidently filling a long-felt want. On the background of the college color is outlined a beautiful maiden, surrounded by wide, white scrolls, on which are to be written the rames of his “‘best girls." The ecllege girl, not to be outdone, revels in pillows covered with white linen, on which her various masculine friends nave written their names, which she has afterward out- lined in gay silks. For the Princetonian there are covers of yellow linen, embla- zoned with the fierce black tiger; for the Coiumbia boy, a large, white seal, outlined in blue on covers of light blue; while the heart of the Yale student is made glad with bachelor’s buttons and blue and white flags. There are also p‘llows galcre for the holidays. A Thanksgiving pillow is idyllic, covered with cream white satin, on which ig painted an old farm house, with a border made up of stalks of corn, pumpkns and chrysanthemums. The New Year pillow is made of olive green duck, on which is em- broidered in gold and lavender this quota- tion: “Every day is a fresh beginning.” It is finished with a double ruffle of green and cream Java print. The Christmas pil- low is a golden brown silk, about eigiteen inches square, on which is an embroidered wreath of holly berries and leaves in their natural colors. “The furnace fire’s out’ is one of the disheartening announcements that darkens the wide horizon of domestic joy, and makes the questicn timely, “Is life worth the living?” To the family prone to this unhappy experience, the following simple directions given to a class of young house- keepers may afford consolation: For the morning work first close the check and put in a thin layer of coal. Then take up ashes in kottem of furnace. By this time the fire will have burned up. Next shake the fire, and with the long poker draw from_the bottom of the grate all the clinkers. Then put on a thick hed of fresh coal, and if you have hods or ironclad barrel take up zshes. Let the fire burn about ten minutes after the fresh coal has been put on. Then clese the little damper, Lut leave a portion of the slide to the Iower door open until the fire has burned up well. In extremely cold weather the fire must be shaken down at night and a good bed of coal put on. Th’s is best done in the early part of the evening, that the house may be comfortabie. Sometimes in cold weather it will be necessary to have the slide in the lower door opened a tiny bit through the day, and in the middle of the day it will be necessary to put on a couple of hodsful of coal. The tempting green and white of the cauliflower—that dainty vegetable which Mark Twain declares is “cabbage with college education”’—is still prominent in the markets, and a favorite with nearly every one. In selecting one, be sure that the head is firm and white and the leaves fresh and green. Dark spots indicate one too long exposed. Pick off the coarser outside leaves, and soak top downward in cold salted water for an hour, to bring out any tiny insect or worm that may lurk within. Tie in a piece of cheese cloth or coarse net to prevent breaking, and cook in boil- ing salted water (uncovered) fifteen or twenty minutes, until tender. Use no more water in the cooking than 1s absolutely necessary, as cauliflower, like cabbage, loses much of its food value by the action of the water; drain; serve with a cream sauce, or, to give it additional nutrient value, add to the cream sauce three table- spoonfuls grated cheese; pour over the cau- liflower, sprinkle three tablespoonfuls more over the top, then a light layer of bread crumbs. Set in a hot oven for about twen- ty minutes, or until a rich golden brown. While few people from choice would se- lect the neck of beef for unlimited home consumption in lieu of the favorite Ameri- can steak, it nevertheless serves a useful purpose, whether utilized for mincemeat, as a boiling piece, or for braising or cook- ing a la mode. A brown stew that is very popular in a restaurant con- nected with one of the largest schools of the metropolis is made twice a week in this manner: Allow to every five pounds of solid beef (neck, shin or shoulder) six quarts of water, two quarts each of turnip and carrot cut in dice, two small onions sliced, four quarts of potatoes sliced or diced, five ounces of flour to thicken, five bay leaves, and a little clove and allspice and chopped parsley. Have the butcher cut the meat in pieces an inch and a half or two inches square, and sear them in beef drippings. Cover with the water, add the spices tied in cheese cloth, and simmer slowly until tender. Three hours before dinner brown the turnip, carrot and onion in drippings, thicken with the flour and add to the meat. About twenty minutes before serving add the potatoes, and five min before dinner the parsley, chopped fine. The prosaic steel coat frame or extender that has long been recognized as a useful but not specially ornamental member of society has succumbed to the growing fancy for even aesthetic closet furnishings, and now appears habited in silk and redo- lent with the faint persuasive perfume of roses, violets or lavender. One seen recent- ly was covered with pink silk, terminating at either end, where it enters the sleeve of bodice or top coat, in plump sachets per- fumed with rose and tied in place with baby ribbon. Thus appereled the coat ex- tender bids fair to be one of the season’s popular novelties for a Christmas gift. The economical housewife seldom buys lard. Ali the skimmings from soup stock, the drippings from roasts and the trim: mings from steaks or chops are saved and clarified. Mutton fat, cooked or uncooked, if soaked in cuid water twenty-four hours, changing once or twice, and then cooked in water, putting a bit of soda as large as a pea to a quart of water, and finally strained may be used for pastry, ginger snaps and molasses cake. Ham fat may be kept separate, clarified and put away to fry eggs in next summer. In cooking or putting away fat, never use earthen or graniteware, but tin. ‘Woodcocks are plentiful in the markets now. To prepare them for cooking, draw, but leave the head and feet on, skinning them, and fastening the head back against the body by his bill. The brain is con- sidered a great luxury. If large enough, lard the breasts. Cook rare, either in the oven, by broiling, or for an invalid, in a buttered paper case. Eight or ten minutes will usually suffice. ‘Tincture of myrrh dropped into er is one of the best things to use as a fouth or throat wash. It hardens the gums, leaves a clean taste in the mouth and a pleasant odor in the breath. Ten drops of myrrh may be allowed to a glass of water. After gas hes been burning in a room for some time, change the air by opening @ door or window for a few moments. Scientists say that an ordinary gas jet consumes as much oxygen in a given time as four human beings. To remove the smell of fish from the hands, put a little turpentine in ‘with the water and soap. —_>+-__. It matters little what it is that you want —whether a situa! or a fibieeBbebeite tion. The Star will reach the need. $ A DEBUTANTE’S TE What It Means to a Young Girl En- tering Society. SHE MUST MAKE A GOOD IMPRESSION Some Handsome Gowns Seen at Recent Coming-Out Affairs. FOR EVENING RECEPTIONS gies (Copyright, 1807, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence to The Evening Star. NEW YORK, November 24, 1897. DEBUTANTE'S worst trial is her coming out tea. It sounds innocent in description, to stand up with one’s mother and be presented to a few of one’s moth- er’s friends. There is no crowd to dread, no pushing and jam- ming, no clanging of music, no hordes of walters, nothing of the fuss and feath- ers, the pretension and'splurge of half a dozen years ago. Certd{nly ‘there can be nothing for the most timid girl to shy at in the familiar drawing zooms, scarcely al- tered from their everyday appearance and not lavishly trimmed é¥en “vith flowers, and in the quiet coming, and going of the family intimates and the,womgn her elders are most anxious the bud. should know. Ard yet—it is. always inl! the “yet” that a difficulty is sprung ot" youthe showy, slam-bang receptions of the past were picnic frolies to what the debutantes of this winter have to undergo. It is the girl -herselfithat: has to pass muster now and not the decorations or re- freshments. The coming-outztea has been turned by tacit dénsent of ‘Meeléty intu a sort of dress réttearsal, where the new cendidate for® favor is‘ put -through her paces by women, who entertain, so that some idea may be arrived atiof her poten- Ualities and the likelihood of her proving a drawing card. © : Competition in Society. The New York season has. become a short one and society competition is keen. Wo- men who have not daughters of their own whose chances they are pushing are con- tinually on the lookout for novelties for their dances, dinners and. receptions. No hand is so sure a winner as a royal flush of pretty girls. There you have it in a nutshell. The debutante’s tea is the ma- tron’s chance to size up the debutante; hence its growing reputation as an ordeal. The girl who passes muster successfully has a brilliant winter ahead of her; she is asked everywhere, deferred to, made much of. She is recognized as an attrac- tion. The girl who doesn’t pass musier is dcomed to dullness unless she is blessed with a peculiarly gifted and persevering mamma A girl's preparations for the simple littic function that is yet of such vital import- ance to her are the cause of much brain- racking. Her dress must be quiet. It iaust be free from every suspicion of os! tion or needless expenditure of money. must suggest youth, simplicity, modesty. It must look artless, without strain: yet it must exhaust all the resources of ge- nius to bring out every good point of face and figure and to conceal the bad ones. The hair must not be dressed elaborately. No ornaments, or very few, must be worn. A girl must not look as if she had dressed to make an impression, but she has failed unless she leaves a deep one. A debutante is allowed to carry flowers. It is her busi- ness to stand quietly beside her mother and to respond as simply and as grace- fully as possible to the greetings of the guests to whom she is presented. She knows she is on exhibition ana is under- going critical examination, but no svs- picion of such knowledge must appear. A Suitable Gown. This season's teas are just beginning. At one of the earliest and most notable a young girl who has been complimented since with invitations to “pour” for six other girls, and who has had the pleasure of seeing thé teapot run never-ceasing streams, faced the music in turquoise blue. A month had been consumed in deciding upon the color, a month of rummagiag the shops and wearing out the brain tiesue of dressmakers. The peculiar delicacy of the girl's blond complexion at last forced the decision. In the shade chosen it look- ed fair and perfect as the inside of a sea shell. ‘ ‘The girl’s figure, though not angular, is too slender, and her bodice was cleverly ar- ranged to remedy this trouble. A pale blue glace silk was covered with turquoise blue chiffon, acccrdion-plea! afid_ gathered about the shculders into soft ings which gave almost the effect” of @ fichu. The sleeves were built on the sae lines and gave fullness and rcunghess,'to the arms. An effective and yet not too striking color contrast was brought out by & waist band and high bow of cornftower bitte satin. The skirt was of turquoise blue #ilk, trimmed with tiny ruffies beaded'with chiffon. This costume was essentialfy gitlish; it was dressy without being t#o elaborate, and nothing could have suited better the soft brown hair and the lovély color, like the first faint dawn of a bludh, that swept over the delicate face now aril again. At an Evening Reception. I have seen only one-other coming-out reception as pretty. This second affair was in the evening. The girl’s father assisted the mother in recei: the- guests and there was a big, good-looking brother who took the debutante out to supper after- ward. The coming-out costume was white in this instance, a dainty frock of white silk, cut after a pretty modification of the em- pire style. It was open at.the throat to show the firm, neck, but the gown at Te yee es f mousseline de le, ly embroidered with peiris and silver, and ae a pies by bands of white satin rib- nm was untrimmed. The debutante held loosely in her hand a bunch of white Japanese chrys- ums. ‘ An evening reception is much less usual at present than q tea, when a debutante make her bow. At the afternoon af- resent. is to fairs: everybcdy dresses with the most scrupulous care. The costumes cf the tea peurers, who may be newly fledged debutantes themselves or young matrons, require the mest anxious consideration. They may be, indeed are expected to be, far more frivolous and fetching than the dress cf the bud, but they must remain within bounds easily felt but not so easily described. ‘fhe who have no dutics of hospitality, wear their handsomest v ing costumes. Some Handsome Toilets. Two or three toilets noticed at recent af- terncors may be descrived. An extremely rich dress had a petticoat front of a deli- cate, watery shade of green, elaborately embroidered with silk and jewels. The princess back was of old rose velvet and lay upon the floor in a half train. e lighi-fitting bedice front was scalloped on the left side, partly covering a deep fall of lace. from below n came the right side of the bodice, forming a bar belt. Tre sleeves had full puffs of velvet at the top. The neck was finished with a flaring coliar of veivet, with a lace lining. cond cestume was cf jan cloth with a heav indseme gray embroidery hem. oti ver orened in the mid rouned of behind. ‘There was a blouse waist of gray velvet in loose box pi Between th 2 Under the arms was a of rows of heavy la a velv : . There was but siume Kirt and 2 covered plumes and high LLEN ee Hard on the American Woman. Grace Atkerten in the Contemporary Review. The faci th t 80 per cent of the actions | for divorce are brceught dy won woulu appear to tell hea agains of the count: S a maiter of fact, a large pe of these divorces go by default, r collusion or indifr art of the celinquent. Many men, permit tae of- fending wife to brirg the suit rather than to disgrace her and her children. Neyer- theless, the diverce revolution has been Lrought out and is maintained by wo- men. Tne typical woman of the United States today is a mental anarchist. reasons for this are seve ) a com- posite ‘of all the races of earth, if not in cod in point of view. She is a product of experinenial democracy, and, like her country, blindly but fi ely striving for an ideal. “She has been thrown largely on her own resources; unlike the women of the | old world, she ‘has done her own thinking. She lives in an electrical atmosphere. She is a spoiled child. She finds herself a com- ponent part of a life that is ever changing, and changes with it. She has come to re- gard herself as by far the most important clement in that life She is a child of the of the minute; she does not strike S. Her independence has begot an ab- normal emount of individuality. Is it a matter for wonder that, finding the man she has married unsatisfactory, she tosses him aside and begins life anew? Jt might be argued that many of the con- ditions enumerated apply equally to the men; but it must be remembered that the latter have less time to reason and ana- lyze. They are essentially a race of ner- vous, incessant workers; they seem to be possessed by the idea that if they pause to take breath the imperfect structure of their republic will fall to pieces. Even the rich men die in harness. —~e+—_+__ The Troublous Feathers. From the New York Times. The theater bonnet Is deceitful and de- ceptive. Many sins are committed in the uame of theater bonnet. Their crimes are not so apparent when the performers on the stage are standing, but at other times there is a general craning of necks to see over the many impertinent feathers, all standing on end. One of the most exciting parts of “‘A Lady of Quality” is where Sir John Oxen is killed. People who have not read the reviews of the play carefully are not certain whether or not he is killed. So they endeavor to see. He lies upon the floor, and Julia Arthur, as the Lady Dun- stanwolde, is bending over him. There are five minutes or more, with the excitement at its height, that many people in the audi- ence cannot see the players. A.man the other night suggested u remedy. “I should ke to have a long pair of scissors,” he said, “and snip off all those abominable feathers and bows. I should have a bask- eiful. I um sure.” For the benefit of any one who may be interested in the contents of the basket as it would have been if he had carried out his idea on that particular night, the following list is given: One blue ostrich feather, which was standing straight beside a black aigrette; three green wings, one black and one white os- trich feather, three erect biack ostrich feathers, three white ostrich plumes, one fluffy waving mass of biack feathers, one spraylike, misty mass of white aigrettes, one standing blue velvet bow on a goid bonnet which was accompanied by a plum- colored bonnet to be snipped off at the sides and to lose its cluster of waving black-tipped feathers, one black and white aigrette, two white ostrich plumes. That was within a small radius; other theater bonnet snippers would have found plenty of work in other parts of the house. | contrasting with the gown. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN Stylish Headgear in Evidence at the Recent Horse Show. Poke Bonnets—Tarquoise fs the Fa: Just Now—Handsome Gowns ef Black Velvet. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, November 25, 1897. It did not take great powers of observa- tion at the horse show last week to as- certain that poke bonnets had determined to vie with “picture” hats in a bid for pop- ular favor. Their success, however, must needs be confined to a more limited field, for while the picture hat is becoming 10 nire out of ten women it is exactly the re- verse with this voluminous revival of the early days of the century. Most of the poke bonnets one sees are faced with shirred pink satin or other material in the same color. They are in- finitely more becoming, however, when faced with black muslin de sole or chiffon, and are apt to be more admired because they are so scldom seen. In beige or gray beaver, faced with satin of the same color, With trailing plumes of the same shade and wide satin strings, they well suit youthful faces. Oh, the ostrich plumes! “Whence did they come, “I wonder? There are not encugh ostrich farms in all the world 10 supply more than enough plumes to cover the hats thus adorned seen at the show in a single day. Henry VIII or Francis of Cloth and Gold fame would have been quite thrown into the shade with a single ostrich plime curling over the brim of his velvet hat. Some of the very pretitest hats are made very much like those seen in paint- ings of the merry monarch, who ran to veriety in the maiter of wives as well as of clothes. Black velvet hats, with a white feather curling over the brim, are not bizarre, but ft and becoming. Toques deserve a chapter to themselves, but all the pters in the worid would not make them becoming or satisfying unless properly made It is not every milliner who can create one of these poetic head- gears, ard it was not always the woman whose attire was the most costly who wore the most artistic toque. A woman wearing a simple suit of broadcloth of a shade be- tween wine and ruby was crowned with a toque of ruby velvet, which was quite beaa- uful. It had the simulation of peak or crown, with a soft suggestion of a brim. On the left side were a few curling feathers brown and white, which might have i dropped frem the wing of some beau- Uful bird. The velvet drooped a little over the hair on the ieft. The words needed to describe it take away from the idea of sim- plicity, which was its greatest beauty. Not Necessarily Beautifal. Little turquoise velvet and gold bonnets, with or without white ostrich tips, were worn by so many women who do not con- sider cost in following Dame Fashion that they really must be mentioned, although they were not beautiful. Turquoise is a ng color, especially when the glare of Lght makes it s more green than blue. of it is used to heighten many dark gowns. ii is often used in the little tucked yokes mpes of the French gowns. These © tucked yokes and collars I have men- d before. They are usually of a shade For example, one tay have a yoke and collar of crean or ivory satin on a black velvet gown. The tucks are fine, and at the back of the col- lar are two flat, small pieces of satin to cover the hooks. The gown is finished with i where it joins the yoke. tl, by the way, was one of the popular materiais for gowns. Young wo- men wore ii, lightened by satin of a con- trasting shade or by white lace. Older wo- men wore it severely plain or with black and white lace to give the needed bright- ness. Generally it was made up on severe and simple lines. 1t was beautiful and it is ocd to see so soft and rich a fabric again on the list of eligibles. Of gray it seems scarcely necessary to speak, for its rank at the head of popular colors has been insisted upon for months. But tne glowing and bright mixtures of white and gray, which were all classed un- der the head of this one color, could not ty any mcans be mistaken for the Quaker garb. A gown of satin of narrow stripes of black, white and gray, with many touches of exquisite lace about the throat and bodice and a wide gray hat with gray plumes curling over the brim will long be remembered by dazzled beholders as a symphony which suggested snow and moonlight and all things poetic, and made cne quite forget the cunning art which fashioned it or the large outlay of pro- saic dollars and cents which made it pos- sible. Gray cashmere was the material of many of the smartest gowns. Waists and Skirts. So great is the rule of the tailor-made gowns that they were worn morning, noon and night, and in many cases supplanted the more elaborate creations worn in for- the poor little fellow mer years. Even the boxes were quiet and dark at night when one thought of the bright and gay masks of color which lined them in previous years. Careful ob- fervers point to this fact as a sure indi- cation of the passing of the separate waist as an article of toilet. Trimmed skirts simulating overskirts, even the overskirt itself, were made in such a way that the mind was filled with sad forebodings ef the approaching time when the material we have taken out of our sleeves will be put into our draperies. All skirts are very narrow on the hips and flare suddenly toward the bottom. This, too, is considered a sure forerunner of the time when they will be made narrow, in order that they may serve to hold volu- minous over draperies. Tournures can no longer be ignored. Only tiny packs of horse hair or hair cloth inserted by the leading modistes so far. Let us hope they will go no farther. The sleeves, curiously enough, had, many of them, something approaching a stiffen- ing. They fitted snugly from the wrist to the elbow. Above that they were not ex- tremely large, but were held out from the arm by a little stiffening in a manner re- minding one of a tournure. The velvet sleeves, as a rule, fitted tight- ly three-quarters of the way up. There they began to wrinkle like a mousquetaire glove, and at the top were slightly pulled into the armhole. The tight sleeve without adornment or embellishment of any sort did not appear. But its forerunner, the tight sleeve with a cap or with wings at the top, was enough in evidence to make one fear that by the time the horses which gladdened the eyes of so many with their beauty tread the tan bark again next November we shall be looking at them and at the by without lorgnette or opera glass. And if man, freed from the thraldom of tight gar- ments, seeks to know why we have dis- carded these aids to vision, we will give every reason but the right one. For the right one will be that our sleeves are so tight that we cannot raise our arms. MABEL BuYD. —_—__ Titles of Sovereigns. From Tit-Bits. The kings and queens of England were not always styled “His” or “Her Majesty,” or after the pattern of that bestowed upen Victoria—“Her Most Gracious Majesty.’ Henry IV was styled “His Grace;” Henry VI, “His Most Excellent Grace;” Edward ‘High and Mighty Prince;” “His Grace and His Majesty;” Henry VIII, “His Highness,” and afterward “His Maj- esty.”” Subsequently the English Majesty.” ‘unin’ ‘The Husbané—“Good! I hate to think of crying for nothing. The after-dinner Task of dish washing loses its terrors, and all household cleaning is ac: complished quickly and easily by the use of LD ‘Largest package—greatest economy. THE N. K. FAIRBANK COMPANY, Chicago, St. Louts, New York, Boston, Philadelphia. CHEERFULNESS AT HOME. img Adds More to the Happiness of the Family. From the Woman's Home Companion. Perhaps there is nothirg that adds more to the happiness of a home than the habit of cheerfulness. It is a potent factor in the secret of housekeeping, and the house- wife who has always a pleasant smile and @ soothing word has already acquired one of the most valuable accomplishments. As long ago as the days of the wise man a merry countenance had its recognized value. It is a duty to be pleasant. Yet how many neglect this important require- ment. Some women are constitutionally cress and morose; others are weak and nervous, and are made fretful by the ex- actions of their household cares. But there is no excuse for much of the friction that exists in many households. I have been in scme where the atmosphere seeined act- ually to bristle with hostilities. Everybody Was in a fret, and frowns and cross words were the rule and not the exception. How urcomfcrtable life in such a home must be to the inmates, as well as to the passing guests. One learns to shun such homes as one would a pest house. All women cannot be beautiful, but it Is the duty of every woman to look as well as she can, and nothing adds more to a woman's good looks than a cheerful coun- tenance. “I have always,” said the good Vicar of Wakefield, “been an admirer of happy human face The sentiment ‘s universal. The pleasure thus derived com- Pensates for the absence of beauty, and Supplies the deficiency of symmetry and grace. Cheerfulness can be cultivated and ac- quired as well as other qualities. If one’s work is exacting and tiresome, it makes it no easier by being fretful. Form the habit of being cheerful under adverse circum- stances. “Our happiness,” observes a standard writer, “is a sacred deposit for which we must give account.” A serene and amiable temper is among its most effi- cient preservatives. It is a virtue not 70 be gainsaid. Admiral Collingwood, one of England's great naval herces, in his let- ters to his daughters, says: “I never knew your mother to utter a harsh or hasty thing to any perscn in my life.” What loftier eulogy could a woman have than that® It should be numbered among woman's household duties that she make others happy. To do this successfully she must in some degree be happy herself. If one is happy she will be cheerful. It is not the happy and contented who fret because their fires do not burn, or because the steal is overdone, and who hush a boisterous child with a frown. Some women are naturally cheerful, but allow themselves to be put out by little things. Suppose the servant has broken a dish, or the butte- doesn’t come, or your husband comes home to dinner late, does it merd matters by any impatient’ com- plaint? Preserve your equanimity. The world was not made in a day, nor was it made all flowers and rippling sunshine. Your work will go along much smoother, you will accomplish more, and you will make others happier by being cheerful. Cheerfulness is the best lubricant in the world, and in the machinery of household toils and cares it often happens that a little is needed. Where there is cheerful- ness there are always order and thrif: and comfort. It is better than high descent or gold. It is a jewel more precious than any ever dug from the mines of Golconda, and, ike the sunshine, cannot be dispensed with, Very fervently and very piously we sey, “God bless the cheerful woman A JEWEL, With All Her Faults This Servant Girl Was a Treasure. “It’s a little venturesome to announce that I have something new in the way of @ servant girl,” laughed the young Matron, “but I rather think I can justify the state- ment by the facts.” ‘Does Jt come up to the lost ideal?” “No, it’s not that, but it’s worth her sal- ary te enjoy her originality and her de- lightful verdancy. The first night she came to us I put an alarm clock in her room, and at an unearthly hour in the morning she was rushing over the house shouting that there was some one ringing the tele- phone, of which I had made her custodian. i had a call from a dear and very ‘fleshy friend of mine. In moving about she drop- ped her belt without noticing it. “Here, missus,’ said Jane, on picking up the jst article, ‘I guess yous dropped your trunk strap.’ The other day I told her to boil the €ggs just three minutes, but when they were served they were hard as bullets, When I took her to task she insisted that she had obeyed my orders, and then tried to let me down lightly by saying: ‘I sup- pose yous furgot, mum, that the ciock’s twenty minutes ahind time.’ ing grin knife on a wheel of his bicycle, and she wes so startled that She cut the tire almost in two, She's not and not tidy.” @ good cook “Why in the world do you keep her,