Evening Star Newspaper, October 16, 1897, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 16, 1897—24 PAGES. ON THE SKAGUAY TRAL THE LUST FOR GOLD! Draws Thousands of Foot-Sore Men Toward the Klondike. SCENES ALONG THE TWO PASSES Difficulties and Dangers That Con- front the Modern Argonauts. DROPPING BY THE WAYSIDE Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. On board S. S. City of Seattle, OFF SKAGUAY, Alaska, en route to Seattle, October 1, 1897. { HAS BEEN JUST three weeks since I left Seattle for this part of the world, for the three following purposes: I was in search of a vacation. I desired to view the indiscriminate gathering of the gold-fever-mad men, fighting to get over the mountain passes to the Klondike gold fields. I proposed te gain a personal knowledge of the two passes over which this strug- giing mass of humanity were endeavoring to force their way. My trip has been successful. At least I heave seen the weary, footsore, heart-worn Broadway, Skaguay. men struggling, and I have gained a per- sonal knowledge of the two passes by cov- ering cvery inch of them on foot. I walked freri Skaguay to Lake Bennett over White Pass. From Lake Bennett I made my way for eight miles through a trackless, trail- less forest to Lake Lindeman. From Lake Lindeman I walked over Chilkoot Pass to Dyea. My sore feet, skinned shins and aching bones forcibly convinced me that I had had a rare outing, while an occasional half-hitch knot-like cramp in the region of my abdomen—the revolt of an ordinarily faithful stomach which had been over- taxed by doses of strong alkali w: causes me to murmur a prayer of t that the journey is over. My only concern new ts that my camera will not prove a scurce of disappointment when the work of developing the films begins. As we sall out of the Skaguay harbor, the whitened mountain tops serve as a pre- monition to the belated argonaut that heary winter is hastening with all its rug- ged fury and rigor. Woe betide the unfor- tunate who meets unprepared the Frost King’s fierce approach. No man stands any chance of reaching the interior with provisions at this time of the year. I know no better way of introducing the story of my experience than by giving a table of comparative distances, of the White Pass trail via Skaguay, and of the Chilkeot Pass via Dyea, as follows: Skaguay Trail. Skaguay to the foot of first hill, Wagon road........ Foot of first hill to first river bridge ..... fs Fir't river bridge to third river bridge Third river bridge to ford, by cut- ct (last crossing cf Skaguay river) 4 miles. 10 3 3 White Pass Summit of White meadows ... ee First meadews to Middle Lake. Middle Lake..... ee Total length of trail.. Dyea Trail. Lake Lindeman to foot of Deep Lake 2% miles. Deed Lake.. -% " Portage, from Deep Lake to Long e to foot of Crater Lake ee Head of Crater Lake over sum- mit of the 1% ” The Scales to + ee: Stone House to She=p Camp...... 200” s Camp to head of canoe avization ieasaaes 8 = Head of canoe Dyea 25> Total length of trail............ 31%" While by far the greater number of ar- ynauts bound north have taken the kaguay trail, I am inclined to believe Customs House at Skaguay. that the Chilkoot Pass is the better, for the simple reason that it {s easier. On the Dyea trail horses via Chilkoot Pass can be used for packing with fair success, ex- cept for one Seales and (€ rds ean be t nd a half miles between the t Lake. The only way nsported this mile and a g half is on the backs of men. On the Ska- rs trail horses can be used the entire di ce, although in many places the trail is impassable for man or beast. On the Skaguay trail there are by careful count and estimates at least 600 deid horses. Usually the unfortunate beasts are left just where they fall from exhaustion. Sometimes they are taken to one side and Lake Bennett. sFot. On the Dyea trail 150 horses are dead. Compared to the Skaguay trai w horses are used on the Chilkoot route packing being accomplished by white’ and Indian packers. When the water courses are r on the opposite side of this pass the prospectors us E ries of small lakes, packing around the portages until Lindeman is reached, from which piace north to Dawson City there is an open est for small boats. Ferrying of goods acri these small lakes costs one cent per pound on each lake. On the Skaguay trail probably 1,200 horses were in use packing at one time. Of this number not 160 will be alive in thir- ty days. As the winter comes on apace feed gets higher in price and hecomes more searce. Horses grow weaker and soon die. Many of the poor beasts are chilled at night and die from pneumonia inside of twenty-four hours. The difference in dis- tance of nearly eighteen miles in favor of Dyea trail has made that trail the fa- vorite, In spite of the fact that harses can be used on the Skaguay trail to better ad- vantage So far, more people have gone through this season over the Dyea trail than by way of Skaguay, and the trip has been made in shorter time. Contracts for packing goods from Dyea to Lake Lindeman have averaged thirty- elght cents per pound. On the Skaguay trail it has been almost impossible to let a contract for the transportation of goods from Skaguay to Lake Bennett. Counting loss of horses and time, most of the Klon- dikers estimate the cost of each pound for packing at from forty to fifty cents, and some have paid as hich as $1 a pound. Con- tracts can be made og short stretches of the trail, but few have been made for the entire distance. The largest contract in- cluded the moving of supplies for twenty- five of the Canadian mounted police. This contract was with the Canadian govern- ment, and amounted to about $2,000. This particular contractor employs fifty men and seventy-five horses. About fifteen tons of goods had reached Lake Bennett previous to my arrival, and it was extremely doubtful whether the con- tractor would be able to get all the sup- plies at the lake before the freeze, owing to continued loss of horses, through acci- dents and pneumonia. As to the success of the White Pass route for winter’ travel, time alone will determine. The Canadian sucked through a mighty opening in the hills to the right, mountains rising on either side to a height of between 2,000 and 3,000 feet. Lynn canal lies between moun- tain ranges, and is one-fourth to one-half mile in width, and the prevailing wind is always cold. The first and only stop made between Juneau and Skaguay is at Haines’ Mission, a small Indian village twenty miles southeast of Skaguay, and on the north side of the canal. This marks the entrance to the Dalton trail, a route usual- ly taken by those who have cattle, horses or sheep to drive to the interior of Alaska. This trail is about 600 miles long, and en- ters the interior by way of Chilkat Pass, to the north of Chilkoot Pass. Those who were on the beach the morn- ing we landed at Haines’ Mission claim there is abundant pasturage for live stock all along this trail. The trail has been used for several years, and usually with success. By the time we arrived at Skaguay the wind had increased perceptibly, and like- wise the rain. The steamer dropped an- chor, and a small tug brought out a scow, on which the goods of the steamer, were lightered. Ordinarily, passengers can wait and land from the scow, or take passage with one of the numerous ferrymen in row- boats, at a cost of from 25 cents to 50 cents per trip, according to whatever the terryman can wheedle out of the victim. The landing of goods from the scows is no stall matter. The scows are towed at high tide 2 the beach, and at low tide teams are driven alongside and the goods hauled to higher ground. The tide rises and falls twenty-six feet, and it not infre- quently happens that a wagon will be load- ing at a scow when the tide comes in so fast that before the loading is completed the water will be up to the wagon box. Skaguay itself is a conglomeration of all nationalities; all kinds of buildings—or, rather, lack of buildings—are in evidence. The first requisite in Skaguay is a pair of rubber boots—good long ones; for Broad- way, the principal thoroughfare, is seldom less than six inches deep in mud. Side- walks are unknown—one just wades and wades. Brcadway is practically the begin- ning of White Pass trail. Following Broad- way from the waterway it runs in a fairly straight line for half a mile, when it sud- denly comes to an abrupt halt through the location in the center of the street of a big saloon and gambling house, known as the Pack Train Saloon. Then Broadway makes another brave attempt to keep straight for a quarter of a mile, and finally winds up in a zigzag trail that is part and parcel of the trail over the mountains. Along each side of the main street are ranged the business houses. There are pout twenty saloons, eleven blacksmith shops, thirty restaurants and bakeries, fif- ty miscellaneous lines, dance halls, hotels, custom house, etc., while the territorial surveyor an@ his devuties find room to do a good business. This is a veritable Mecca for the speculator. On one corner the dis- mayed prospector, who had outfitted com- pletely for the Yukon, has decided to aban- don his trip and is selling his flour for per- haps 50 cents per sack. Within fifteen min- utes after he has sold the flour the specu- lative purchaser is offering it for from $2 to $8 per sack. Many lines of staple goods would be bought in this manner for less than they cos. in Seattle. Thus: Hay, $20 per ton; oats, $23 per ton; cabbage, 5 cents per pound; beans, 1 to 3 cents per pound; ess, 35 cents per dozen; bacon, 6 to 15 cents per pound; potatoes, 75 cents to $1 per sack of 100 pounds. In case a person changes his mind as to the route preferred, and the Dyea trail is chesen, accommodating boatmen will trans- fer his goods from Skaguay to Dyea for $8 per ton, the distance being six miles, and the price almost as much as that chargeé by steamers on freight from Seat- tle to Skaguay, a distance of nearly a thousand miles. In case you prefer to ride rather than walk, the fare will be from $1 to $5, according to the number in the party. From Skaguay to Juneau the fare is $8; returning, $10; freight, $10 per ton. Skaguay now has about 100 frame build- ings, a population approaching 1,200, and committees for almost every known object, from committee on removing dead horses to committees to look after the numerous cor- respondents of eastern dailies, the latter committee having even more to do than the dead horse committee. An Orderly Town. Skaguay is really an orderly town from a frontier standpoint. Comparatively few robberies are reported, when the great number of miscellaneous humanity who have rushed in there is considered. To be sure, probably not half the population know when Sunday arrives—in fact, there is no Sunday in Skaguay. Saloons and all kinds of gambling games—keno, faro, black Jack, poker, roulette—flourish by day and by night; seven days and seven nights each week without interruption. The only cloud that appears on the gambler’s horizon is the appearance of the deputy United States marshals, which usually threatens a seiz- ure of Nquors, providing there is an over- abundance. The liquor traffic presents a peculiar complication at this place. It is not an offense, as the law is administered, to sell whisky, except to Indians; but if the Mquor is found in a person's possession the lquoris liable to seizure. Most saloon men, therefore, carry very small stocks “in NLOADING AT A PORTAGE ON LAKE LINDEMAN. mounted police intend to go through this winter. and it is believed that they will be successful. Seventy-five additional police, two tons of supplies and 120 dogs, with sleds, have arrived, and as soon as the freeze commences and snow falls, an at- tempt will be made to open the Skaguay trail for winter travel. The height of the White Pass—2,400 feet—gives it some ad- vantage, in case of storm, over the Chil- koot Pass—3,500 feet. The Dyea trail has been used for years in the early spring for sleds and dogs, the principal drawback being the severe storms on the summit. A steel cable 5,000 feet long is being placed in position from The Scales to the summit, and it is possible that by spring travelers will be able to have their sleds, loads and all, hauled to the summit, thus avciding the hardest and most dangerous portion of the trail. On the Skaguay trail on September 15 there were probably 1,200 persons from all over the world. Of this number not over 400 have succeeded in reaching the lakes, the rest being caught by the snow and ice. Those who remain behind will be obliged to build log cabins on the trail and camp all winter, or leave their goods in charge of others and return to civilization. On the Dyea trafl 1 passed fully a thous- and persons en route to the gold fields. I believe that more than half of this num- ber will reach Dawson City. The remain- der will be compelled to adopt the same winter methods as those on the Skaguay trail. Hundreds are giving up and selling their supplies, whenever possible, and re- turning. One steamer brought back to Se- attle a week ago 175 returning prospectors. Fully haif of those on both trails have been afflicted with rheumatism, lameness from exposure, poor food and bad water, their ills being due to sleeping in wet clothes and packing heavy loads on their backs. = In by Way of Skaguay. Leaving Juneau, which is “by far the largest city in Alaska, a ride of thirty min- utes on the steamer and the point of land separating the harbor of Juneau from Lynn canal ts passed, and the prospector is fairly headed for Skaguay and Dyea. The distance from Juneau to Skaguay is about 100 miles. Steamers leaving late in the afternoon arrive the following fore- noon. No sooner has the journey up Lynn canal commenced than the boat mens the strong gale which sweeps can- yon during the entire passage. The wind ls sight,” the balance being conventently “cached” in nearby places. Starting up Broadway for a promenade of perhaps a mile through the mud, brings you to the outskirts of Skaguay proper, where you are surrounded by quite heavy timber. Here the White Pass trail is plain. On either side of the trail are numerous tents showing the stopping place of north- bound prospectors who were left in the first rush, and have settled down to camp life. Some are building log cabins and others are simply camping, not knowing what to do. The trail winds through fairly heavy timber for another mile, until the first crossing of the Skaguay river is made. At this point early arrivals on the trail were compelled to ford the river, which is a swift, tortuous mountain stream, ordinarily two feet deep and forty feet wide. While attempting to cross this stream one young man—Dwight Fowler of Seattle—lost his life. Since that a rough log bridge has been constructed. Two miles more of comparative level, but very muddy, road completes the first four miles of the trail, and, in the language of those using the trail, you are fairly “up against it” at the foot of the first hill. The foot of the first hill has proven the Great halting point of the hundreds who have gone in and tried to get in. Six weeks ago it was estimated that 3,000 gold seekers camped at this place at one time. Most of them have since that time moved on. Many have turned back, and a good many are still encamped there. From the exaggerated tales emanating from this camp regarding the condition of the trail, distances, etc., the name of this camp has been termed, for obvious reasons, Liars- ville. Every statement I heard while there convinced me that the name was properly applied. Liarsville’s leading attraction at the time of my visit was one store and restaurant and a saloon. Over the door of the saluon appeared the welcome sign, “free i ing.” In company with a large number similarly situated I accepted this invitation, and, placing my blankets on the ground inside the saloon, was soon fast asleep. Before retirirg the proprietor re- galed his guests with stories of the choice liquors he had manufactured from spirits of cologne, giving the assurance that he never used over 31g parts of water to one of cologne. : Two hundred yards fubther ‘and the as- cent of the hill commences. At the foot of this hill tons of abundant provistons can be seen—wagon Icads of orange, apples and onions, which speculators had intended tak- ing to the Klondike and realizing hand- somely thereon. Among; piles,of goods are seen nunierous boats, originally intended for immediie use on arrival at the lakes, but they are new left to,rot-with the other useless supplies. A great many improvised signs on trees convey the information of different parties having-goods for sale all along the trail. From the foot of the first hill to the summit of Porcupine Hill is 3 gradual rise for four miles, and then a de- scent to what is known as the first bridge over the Skaguay river. To the third cross- ing of the river is simply a repetition of the first three miles—mud and dead horses on every side. At the third brkige the first camp of any size is reached. A cut-off around one of the larger hills has been blasted out of the solid rock, and this is followed until the ford is reached. This ford 1s the last crossing of the river. A climb of an hour and the summit of White Pass is reached, half way from Skaguay to Lake Bennett. About three inches of snow has fallen. The wind plows a gale and dashes snow, sleet and rain in the face of the prospector. The snow and sleet is so blinding, evea at this sea- son of the year, that it is often necessary for the prospector to double on his track for the purpose of finding the trail. At Middle Lake. Following along the summit for 1% miles 4s broad table land. Descending, you come at once to a valley perhaps two miles wide, known as the first meadows, and the trail leads from the first meadows a distance of three miles to Middle lake. The meadows are covered with a heavy growth of coarse grass. The horses are turned out to graze; eat bountifully, but obtain no nourishment. A camp of thirty tents was at the head of Middle lake when I ar- rived there, waiting for the dying down of the wind so that boats could arrive from the other end of the lake. In the me.n- time the campers were busy shooting ducks, which were everywhere to be seen. In fact it seemed that the air was full of feathers. At the sound of a gun, these ducks would rise up ten or fifteen feet and light again, apparently having never seen a man before or heard the report of a gun. Goods can be taken across this five miles for 1 cent Per pound, providing the wind is fair. A Portage of a quarter of a mile and another pretty lake is reached called Shallow lake— 13-4 miles in length. A charge of % cent per pound for carrying goods is made here. One man has four boats engaged in freight- ing on these two lakes, and it is needless to say he has a Klondike himself. Leaving the lower end of Shallow lake, and the beginning of the last tramp toward Lake Bennett commences. The trail runs through timber, meadows and marshes, af- fording a pleasant diversity of scene and is by far the best portion of the Skaguay trail. Within a distance of ten miles, twenty-six marshes are crossed. On every hand the final rush to reach water before the freeze can be seen. Immense pack trains are hurrying along. Blockades of horses and goods are of hourly occurrence, and the oaths of men turn the air blue. The prize is almost in sight, and the men feel that it cannot be lost by delay at the final point. Prices have suddenly become very high. Oats sell for $40 per hundred pounds. Two miles from Lake Bennett and the sound of hammers, axes and saws is heard. Crowds of men felling trees and cutting timber, tell of the struggle to get material for boats. A short distance beyond, and numerous signs of every nature and description are met. Men with goods to sell—men who have lost their partners on the trail—men who want passage down the river—men who want work—in fact, men who want anything—have hewn srhooth places on the sides of the trees beside the trail, and the markings in these smogth places tell the story of their desires. For instance: BOAT AND OUTFIT FOR 2 MEN FOR SALE. PLACE—HANSBURY, NEAR MATHES' GRAVE. Another: HORSE SHOE NAILS, 25c. Apply first tent to right. Another: 0. R. WILLIAMS—A. DELFEL, WE WANT TO SEE YOU AT THIS TENT. Another: HOLBROOK: GO TO LAKE AT DIVIDING OF TRAILS. Reaching Lake Bennett, the beacn is cov- ered with tents, their cccupants being im- patiently waiting to get away. A strong breeze disturbs the surface of the lake, and the boats put out as they are com- pleted, with all manner of rigging. One that I noticed hed 2 bed blanket for a sail. The wind takes the boat in a direct line teward the mighty Yukon, and it soon passes out of view. The proverbixl horesty of mining camps dces not prevail at Lake Bennett. In- stances of stealing are so common that every party leaves a guard on duty with his goods all the time. A few deys since, three men started down the Yukon together. After going thirty-five miles, two of them landed to see a friend cn shore. The third stole the entire outtit and went on down, compelling the two who had landed to tramp back through a wilderness of woods to Camp Bennett, which they reached during my stay there. It is next to impossible to purchase pro- visions or supplies of any kind at Lake Bennett, although much are passing through. Everyone prefers to keep his un- til Dawson City is reached. Flour, if sold at all, brings $40 per sack of fifty pounds, oats, $40 per hundred pounds; sugar, $1 per pound, coffee, $1 per pound; whisky, fifty cents a drink. Every man must carry his own blankets and provisions. Klondikers on the trail are very ready to accommodate strangers with shelter in their tents, but will not supply blankets. Very often, so many are stopped on account of storm and ctker causes, that the tents are more than crowded. I know of one instance when seven men slept in the same bed on the ground. In cases of this kind, middie berths are at a premium on these cold nights. = Boats are the one great commodity at Lake Bennett. Everybody wants one. A small, wheezy saw mill attempts to supply lumber and boats. All the lumber they can cut—a thousand feet per day—is readily gobbled up at seventy-five cents per lineal feot. An ordinary river boat sells for $300. Larger ones for $400 and $500. A passenger for Dawson City without goods can buy a Pessage in one of these boats, or rather a place big enough to sit down in, for $100. Most of the boats carry four or five pas- sengers, in addition to the regular supply of goods. When a party finds that it has room left in a boat, a sign is placed on a convenient tree, offering passage for men, and possibly goods, at a stated price. Whisky at Lake Bennett. Last spring 3,000 gallons of whisky were brought through Alaskan territory to Lake Bennett in bond. Fifteen hundred gallons are now buried in the sand on the shores of the lake; the remainder having been ship- ped down the river billed to Dawson City. ‘These 1,500 gallons were shipped north the week previous to my visit. Leaving Lake Bennet: and walking half mile to the southwest, the worst section of the rapids in the portage between Lake Lindeman and Lake Bennett is reached. Here many prospectors, after a hard strug- gle in the mountain passes, have lost all in attempting to shoot the rapids without unloading their boats. | It is here, also, that a little rude inclos- ure, bearing a sign with an inscription tell- ing that all that is earthly of J. W. Mathes is there buried. A year ago Mathes and a party of his fellows got that far on their way to the Yukon gold fields. Mathes fell and broke one of the smajl bones in his leg. Being already discouraged nd disheart- ened, and believing that he would never reach the gold fields, aryway, and that if his companions were obliged to bring him back to the coast they would blame him for their respective lost fortunes, he placed a revolver to his head and killed himself. The site of his grave is now oné of the best known landmarks on the,route to the Klon- dike gold fields. At this place the boats are usually unloaded, and the goods carried around the dangerous rapids, and the boat then floated down empty. The afternoon I reached the portage cne party had un- loaded all their goods and were letting the beat through the p with the man remained in the boat to steer, and three men on _ shore held the rope to keep the ta lt from it out of reach. When fairly started, the rope broke and the boat went down the rapids like a shot. By rare | fortune, a friend- ly current carried the boat to a sandspit and it was saved; but instances are numer- ous where others have rot been so fortun- ate. A quarter of a mile north — is ig lower end of Lake Lindeman and of the already mentioned ‘When I arrived’ there tne wind been blowing for days from the sout and no boat had ventured across 2 E Bee BH f | timber. Lake Lindeman is the real head of navigation for those starting for the Klon- dike, Lake Bennett being the second in the chain of lakes and the terminus of the Skaguay trail. There is no trail from Camp Bennett to Camp Lindeman, and after a hard strug- gle for five hours darkness found me a mile from Camp Lindeman, with a raging river between, which had risen so high during the day that the usual ford was entirely gone. There was only one alternative—sleep in the woods, with the rain pouring down and the wind blowing a gale. After a half hour's search fer a feather bed and hotel -accommodations in the wilds of the north- west territory, I came up with a short turn in line with a dim trail that led to a clump of bushes. Behind these was hidden a boat, presumably stolen. Hard work placed the boat in the water, and I paddled cut, but before I had gone one hundred feet the boat had filled to the depth of eight inches. The only recourse was to return to shore, and that quickly. Empiying the water from the boat, I turned it on the beach, —__.. Newspaper Men in Camp. bottom up, and propped about three feet on one side. Making a soft place under the boat with boards and logs, I prepared to retire. Opening my blankets, I soon had a bed fit for a prince. I was up at daylight the next morning, and soon had breakfast ready. Just as I was ready to eat a strange face, with a head-covering of gunny sacks, appeared through the underbrush. A short conversation revealed the information that the stranger was John Schmidt, an Avs- trian, from New York. The day before he had started down Lake Bennett in a small boat, with his entire supplies. The boat capsized when a half mile from shore, and he had a hard struggle to save himself. Leaving Lake Bennett for Camp Linde- man in the afternoon, he had been lost all night fn the woods. The sum total of Mr. Schmidt's cash with which he had started down the lake w cents. This he still retained. Twenty-five cents at Lake Lin- deman will ordinarily buy one-sixth of a common meal. Mr. Schmidt gladiy partook of a can of baked beans, and, after fast ing the boat, we started together to find a ford across the river. Walking up stream one and one-half miles brought us to a log. By getting on our hands and knees we managed to reach the other shore. A short walk, and Camp Lindeman Is at hand. Dyea or Chilkeot Pass Route. Camp Lindeman consists of about one hundred tents and probably three hundred pecple. Everybody is busy completing the final packing of supplies from the last previous camp or building boats. Nearly every hour of the day a boat would quietly load, sip away and around the point, bound for the gold fields. From Lake Lin- deman to the first camping point of any importance is two and a half miles. The trail is up the mountain side nearly all the way, but is fairly good. This leads to the lower end of Deep leke, a body of water about one and a aaif miles in length. Across this lake nearly all goods are trans- ported in boats, the charge being usually one cent a pound. A portage of half a mile at the upper end of Deep lake and Long lake is reached. Here two miles more of packing can be avoided by the use ef boats. At the upper end of Long lake a_ small city of tents is met. Then a walk of three miles along the rockys shores of Crater river, a swift stream fed by the glaciers, and you come to Crater lake, a cold. icy lake in the midst of glaciers. Boats are again used for two miles across Crater lake. and the head of Crater lake leaves you in the midst of rocks. Not a stick of timber is nearer than four miles. Mathes’ Grave. A more dreary place to camp can hardly be imagined. Yet here were a number of tents. A tent hung with gunny sacks for a door, and presided over by a small Irish- man, announces by means of a small sheet of paper that meals will be served at $1.25 per meal. The meal consists of coffee, bis- cuit, bacon and beans. Business was en- tirely suspended the evening I arrived at Crater lake, owing to the fact that in the morning the wind had carried the restau- rant, tent, Irishman and all, over into a canyen 400 feet below. The restaurant had only resumed business outwardly, and the preprietor’s temper was still “windy.” The wind blews a gale at Crater e. Every tent, in addition to being tied, was fastened down with rocks on the edges. ‘The center of the tent rested over a rock about six feet square. On this rock five of us made a bed. By dint of hard squeezing five can sleep on a rock of that size, pro- vided one is not too particular; but when turning over, all must turn at once. How- ever, sleeping accommodations at Crater lake, with even five in one bed, is not to be sneezed at, for one cannot cross the summit at night, much less go back. By carefully collecting all the walking sticks in camp and breaking them up, we were enabled to make a very advantageous trade at a near-by tent of the wood thus secured, for the privilege of boiling two quarts of coffee. This favor was highly esteemed. Next morning a sharp walk for fifteen minutes and the summit of Chilkoot Pass— 8,500 feet above sea level—is before you. Another ten minutes and the descent is commenced. Down, down; jumping from one sharp rock to another, for one and a half miles, and a camping place known as “The Scales” is reached, so named because at one time a man, tired of carrying a.set of scales, left them at this resting place, where they remained for years. At this time of the year the fogs and storms are so bad that very careful atten- tion is required to keep the trail across the summit, and also descending to “The A gradual descent of two miles More and a resting place known as “Stone House” is reached. This is a large rock. so situated as to afford shelter overhead and on three sides. It is a favorite camp- ing place with the Indians, especially in stormy weather. Across the canyon and directly opposite “Stone House” is a large giecier. It was a part of this glacier which broke loose on September 18, caua- ing a small lake to overflow and flooding Sheep Camp. Following the canyon, past “Stone House” and Sheep Camp, the Dyea river winds !ts way. The trail follows this river from “Stone House” to Sheep Camp, a distance of two miles, the mud in many places being knee deep. Sheep Camp. UNTIL NOVEMBER Ist While the reasons for Doctor McCoy's agreeing to | wo! the éxtension of the $3 Rate until November 4 have deen made very clear, and while Doctor Met himself has been quoted as saying authoritatt that although he will live up to to the rate being extended or re ber 1, there is one w be constantly borne in mind, aud that is th That Doctor McCoy is in no sense accom: his practice to the rate: he Is giving 1 for the pericd 4s agreed, but he is main wed the practice and treatment at the same standard that it was under the higher rate. So, throughout this period it must be rec: by all the people who are taking ndvant: rate, and by all their friends, and by it that Doctor MeCoy is not giving a $3 treatment under the $3 rate; that it is in no sense a treatment, but that he is giving t all the New ‘Treatment, the splendid treatment, for the presen tation of which the offices of his national practice Were established in Washington. It is the “Treatment that Cures" that all who are taking advantage of this rate are getting; the | wonderful treatment— That has lifted the darkness and blight of the AUNT AND NIECE A e letter of his | Agreement, he will under no circumstances consent Novem- | important point that is to $3 A MONTH. thes. th m the of | Lifted the darke are to be treated UN CURED at te nw $3 a month. It ie simply that the time limit of ay wtion ts definitely set treat- | | AML new patients ay | ais renewing ment and all ofd pat | treatment fore November Ist will be treated UNTIL CLRED at the wni- | form rate « S35 a month, om | included. LMOST STONE DEAF BEGAN TREATMENT TOGETHER. THE NIECE TESTIFIES THAT SHE CAN HEAR ORDINARY CONVERSATION Mrs. Mary E. Main, 1522 14th st. n.w “AFTER HAVIN THAT MY DEAFXE’S W. TO DOCTORS M:CO¥ AND © WDE . FOR TREAT. MENT, AND AS A RESULT OF THEIR SKILL I AM NOW ABLE TO HEAR. “My deafness began three years ago, in the left ear, and in # short time that ear became absolutely stone deaf, “Last winter the hearing in my right ear began to fall, and as it was growing gradually worse, believed that it would soon have become as bad as the left “My left ear was very deaf; when my right ea! was closed 1 could not hear a sound with it. no matter how loud. continual throbbing back of my ears that is almos impossible to describe. Tirs. Eliza A. Davis, Little Falls road, D. C. Cured of asthma. “It disturbed me so I could get no rest. long I suffered from it. My hearing had becom: Unless They Shouted to Me. And then I would have to put my hand up to my If T was not had ear, In order to catch the sound. looking at them I spoken at all. would never know they ‘Last spring I went to the Mothers’ Congress, held in the First Baptist Church, on 16th street, but I could not hear a single word that was sa. “You can judge how deaf I was. was a fire right next to us. next morning. “Last Sunday the hearing returned to my right ear. The first sound that I heard was The Ticking of the Clock. “1 was standing five or six feet aw: could hear it plainly. ‘That awfal thro head has ceased, and I can now hear versation.”” ing in my BEEN TOLD RY OXE DOCTOR INCURABLE, I WENT UPERIOR, I suffered terribly with my head. There was a All day so bad that I could not hear what people were saying One night there There was the usual noise and confusion, the shouting of the fire- men, the puffing of the engines and the clanging of bells, but I knew nothirg about it until told of it y from ft and rdinary coa- THE AUNT TESTIFIES THAT SHE CAN AGAIN HEAR CLEARLY. Mra. Margaret H. Thomas, 1400 W street nor . is the aunt of Mrs. Mary E. Main, whose si Ajoinin - | The experience © two ladies cle | trates th e unfailing effect of Doctor McCoy's atment, ALMOST STONE DEAF, THEY BEGAN TREATMENT ON THE Same DATE; NOW THEY HEAR AGAIN DISTINCTLY Mrs. Thomas says: “I was very deaf in both ting hospital, i for ay “When T entered that hospital T could a it my ng Was e was not much better. I a ti it, and it was t and beconi “And then ther | bead—w sounds, Noixes Like Crickets Chirping bees humming—that key much of a e deaf, ose awful noises 4 st in and nd can hear ondiaary tone. Mrs, Jenny Sn don’t think any n Thad it 506 Gth st. s.w.s ever had Asthma worse one ed Ancessantly, and was so short of I could not lie down at night; [have Spent night after night sitting up in order to get my br “It was a year in July sin tack, and I feel that Lam ce CURED OF GASTRIC CATARRH. James G. Clark, 3218 0 st. now.: had catarth of the stoma troubled b for thr inost constantly with I was end « ars, not take solid food at all. I was bloated up con- stantly and belched up quantities of Now I can eat anything without the lexst distress, and cousider myscit coupletely cured.” Doctor McCoy’s Second Monograph on Deafness Has Beea Received From the Printers and May Be Obtained FREE on Application at the Office or by Writing for It. McCoySystemofMedicine DR. McCOY’S NATIONAL PRACTICE, 715 13th Street Northwest. Office Hours—9 to 12 a 1 to 5 pan, 6 t0 8 p.m. daily; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. feet high, moving massive rocks sweeping everything before it. All the tents and goods along the river habitants barely escaping to were lost, the with their lives. Three are supposed have been killed, but only cne bod recovered, that of an Austrian w na in the river grasping at twigs and logs a: the torrent carried them past. liner, the mayor of Sheep Camp, and Geo. Marks, had a very narrow escape. after a hard struggle, a line was thrown him from shore, and he was hauled out more dead than alive. A deposit of sand, from one to two feet deep, marks the path of the flood. Following still further down the Dyea river from Sheep Camp, the trail leads through marshes, along hills for nine miles, until the head of canoe navigation is reach- | ed. Portions of this trail have been great- ly improved by corduroy roads and bridges across the river, on which a toll of 50 cents is charged for each horse and 25 cents for and ned Choynski, a cousin of the pugilist of the same name. The other two men were seen Sol Ber- Marks grasped the tent rope, which was fastened to a stump, as the flood struck him, and, WISHES SHE HAD IT BACK Bussia Now Regrets That She Ever Sold Alaska, Few Americans that R e of the fact ful, despotic Rus- ‘grets the ling of Alas- ka to the United tes, and that in the more intimate, political circles in the c capital today there is a deal of bluster about the mistaken policy whici turned over so rich a territory to another nation. This sentiment has been growing for sev- eral years, bul ihe discovery of the Alas- kan gold fields has greatiy stimulated it. | For Alaska, with all its fore lisheries | and gold-stecked mountains, was Russia’s | own domain, and Russian subjects should each foot passenger. At the time I came | have had the mining of those vast deposits through (the day following the flood) all bridges had been swept away, and ropes were stretched across the river and ferries established. At one point thirty Indians Dyea. were busily engaged placing a foot log across. At the head of canoe navigation boats can be secured for Dyea, the fare varying from $1 to $1.50. The distance to Dyea is six miles. The current travels at the rate of about six miles an hour, and no oars are needed—just long poles. Indians are by far the better boatmen, and they cleverly avoid the rocks and worst rapids. Our boatmen was an Indiana gentleman, with a very limited knowledge of naviga- tion. By careful management we were able to strike four sand spits, one rock, two snags and the shore once; the only wonder. being that the boat had a sound board left. ‘Arriving at Dyea, the entire population was on hand to welcome us. A miscellane- ous lot of Indians and people, in all stages of advancement toward the Yukon—some just landed, cthers just leaving with their last canoe load. Going up stream, canoes @re propelled partly by poling, hauling, and sometimes horses are used, by having them wade near the shore. Dyea has a population all told of about 600, including whites, Indians and newspa- lents, From Dyea to Skag- | of the yellow metal. But the encroachments with which Cath- erine and her successors stealthily and steadily extended their frontiers toward the south and west were given a distinct setback when Seward's negotiations result- ed in the transfer of Alaska to the United States, The views of the Frenc’i monarch who so carelessly ceded to England the “few square miles of snuw” which consti- tuted the province of Quebec would meet no sympathy in the land of the white czar. Expansion nas been the rule of Russia, ever since the overthrow of the Tartar race, and when {it became generally known in St. Petersburg that the purchase had been concluded the disapprodation scarce'y re- strained itself. Vain Regrets, But to lose a country full of gold mines— nay, not to lose, to willingly barter away land in which gold was even ther known to exist! Ay, there’s the rub! Perhaps there would have been no need to wel- come President Faure so royally to Russia had the United States not absorbed Alaska. No need, then, of the friendship of French financiers. Among those who, today, are anxiously looking up all correspondence relating to the sale, to discover whether or not some technical flaw may perchance be brought te light, the Grand Duke Paul is the most prominent figure. The eye of military Rus- sia is anxiously fixed upon this young man —he is only thirty-seven—as he would play no unimportant part in event of any diffi- culty between Russia and other nations. His military experience has been consider- able. He served on the general staff of | Skobeleff in the Turco-Russian campaign in 1877, where he distinguished himself by bravery at the taking of Plevna. He was present at the treaty of Santo Stefano, by which the European coalition prevented the Russians from entering Constantinople, and at the battle of Penjdeh, under General Komaroff, he won great honors in the con- test against the English for the supremacy of Central Asia. Such is the opinion of his military and strategic ability that, in the event of any war with Russia, he would sey. be regarded as the Russian Me § He was one of those most active in en- deavoring to demonstrate the advantages of the Franco-Russian alliance, which in his opinion are as follo That French consent is thereby practically assured to any of Ruesia’s aspirations, either in Asia or toward the Mediterranean; also, what is of prime importance, that the negotia- tion of any Ruesian loan will be sure of acceptance upon the Paris exchange. -——0- “Want” ads. in The Star because they bring answers. art r,