Evening Star Newspaper, October 16, 1897, Page 15

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, OQTOBER 16, 1897-24 PAGES. AN AFTERNOON TOILET. FOR EVERYDAY WEAR Shirt Waists and Sash Belts Retain Their Popularity. PRINCESS GOWNS ARE IN HIGH FAVOR Poplin Weaves for Dressy Cos- tumes and Odd Skirts. AN AFTERNOON TOILET (Copyright, 1897, by S. M. Baldwin.) Apecial Correspondence of The Evening Star. VIENNA, October 5, 1897. It is a well-known fact to all that a shion or a fad originates in so-called elidem, going from there to the midile ard finally reaching the masses en the grand dame has ceased to ‘iook upon it. Of late, however, paticn fias touched all the fair the queen of society down to laborer’s wife, with its contagious p. infesting fashion’s realm even, wo- of every cless ef society have com- ed upon a garinent which combines with comfort and practibility, id from irt waist. summer design remains in idea, though in different materials, and seems tined fo- equal popularity. Light or k shades cf silk, satin, velveteen, cor- cloth and woolen plaids are used the make-up of the shirt waist, and the rimm:ings consist of soutache, v vet rib tiry buttons or tucks and knife-ple: ed_ruffles. in colors in satin make very chi waists, and a tie of the same goods is a feature in the really stylish on Many h studholes in front, and cuffs and linen ars are usually worn. The blouse ope: ing in front or on the side, the surplus front and the yoke, tucked, cr plain, are ali favorite styles. On the plaid designs the yoke is often cu the bia: Cloth shirt waists are made in the lc Russian styie, while jurey, with a silk check upon it, ks well in Norfolk or blouse p ractical wome simplicity reig sy or house wear, fashion h and costly order of the For dre other max afternoon toilet verifies ement, and is a sample of most refined art of the couturier. A tight and narrow foundation skirt of tric blue satin is covered by a mi tricate drop skirt, consisting of undulat- ows of black satin, graduating in alternating with insertions of ered black point d’esprit. The lowest i of satin is considerably wider than her ones, and is covered with a of point d’esprit, edged with mous- el width and and each band of “Kk satin is likewise bordered on both with the same little ruche of black ents the same character the skirt, except that_in the stripes run diagonally. The i eeve linings of electric blue atin are tight, but the diagonal covering 3 ch at the front, where S a belt of black satin, which e side under a high bow of The tight sleeve is entirely red with wrinkled point d’esprit. The epaulette is formed of bk soie, gathered inte close e revealing the tendency ich demand a bulging e shoulde mousseline also edges the wr a ing feature, and one which and color to the gown, is a rolling revere of ‘« satin, covered with bands of shirred cerise red mousseline de soie, & edged with fulled, narrow d of cel finished at the front of the a high-standing collar is so of cerise velvet. The Poplin Weave. The poplin weave has been well exploited im piain and figured effects, and has prom- NEW YORK CITY. The Oldest, Largest and Most Reliable Human Hair Goods Emporium in America. Established since 1858. My stock in fine quality of HUMAN HAIR GOODS, the b ‘grade of workmanship, the im- we varlety of stylish designs in various Coif- es, naot be equaled where! con of IS9T and ‘98 Is the MARIE ANTOINETTE COIFFURE, so very becoming and stylish, and the aid of the s patented NEWPORT COIL, any lady, it any trouble, will accomplish a perfect ILLUSIVE WIGS, of my make, are the Stondard of perfection, as to fine und superior workmanship. Our HAIR DRESSING PARLOR. is a per- fect Rijou! Nemerous artists and experts for hair coloring (in various shades) are constantly in at- terdasee. An exquisite assortment of HAIR ORNA- MENTS, spegalty. COLORED iLLUST. F. CATALOGUE FREE. A. SEMONSON. 953 BROADWAY, 21ST AND 2D STS. oc2-25t ised a good season for dressy costumes end odd skirts. The latter, however, will be worn with waists of corresponding color, though contrasting material. Princess-cut gowns are also increasing in favor, as they are universally becoming to the slender figure, as well as to her who stands in constant dread of a superabund- ance of embonpoint. Poplin adapts itself particularly well to the princess pattern, as its rich luster com- bines harmoniously with the dignified lines of the latter garment. A beautiful gown of silver gray poplin kas a drop skirt of poplin over a tight, narrow foundation skirt of taffeta of the same shade. This drop skirt is arranged at each side of the front gore with a box pleat, faster.ed as far as the knees and al- lowed to hang lecsely below. Points of handsome guipure lace extend along the pleats. Three box pleats also give full- ness to the back. The blouse of poplin is plain at the back, but crosses in front, sim- ulating triple revers, graduating in’ size, the last one being of guipure and almost covering the left side of the blouse bodice, which is alsc of guipure, lined with cream- colored satin. One side is slashed with guipure points. The standing collar, with saucer edge, is a golden brown velvet, as is also the folded belt. Each of the trizle Tevers is bordered with a narrow band of golden brown velvet. Popularity of the Sash. A new adornment for young ladies’ gowns in particular is the sash. Satin, surah, habuti and velvet, made into bias sashes or belts, rival the plain and fancy ribbon generally used for this purpose. Cut bias, the belt fits snugly to the form, and no woman willingly makes her waist appear larger. The sashes maten the gown with which they are worn, and they are likewise trimmed. Long ends are cut on the b:as and hemmed and edged with lace, or a tiny puffing of chiffon. On a jet- trimmed gown the velt and long ends are edged with jet gimp. Chiffon sashes cre worn with house gowns, and are made of the entire width of the goods and edged with lace, the ends falling from a rosette or knot, which bears a fancy buckle or button. Narrow sash ends, either made of ribbon cr cut out of silk velvet, may be wora hanging over the hip, or further forward. A white and black silk dress has a sash of rose-colored velvet tied on the side and the lapels of the vest, which come down in a point in front, are also faced with the same velvet. (Ct. Dascot, Vienna» LIGHTING NIAGARA, Scheme to Hluminate the Famous Gorge. From the Rochester Post and Express. An experiment tn lighting the gorge of the Niagara river, which was tried this week in conrection with the convention of ¢lectricions, is likely to bear important re- sults, and has furntshed a spectacle of ex- traordinary magnificence. The illumina- tion was arranged under the personal di- rection of Luther Stieringer, the man who designed ard operated the illuminations and electric fountains at the world’s fatr. On the platform car, between two open cars, he took six monster electric search lights and a number of colored gelatine screens. At 10 o'clock in the evening the start was made down the Gorge road. The search lights took their electricity from the trolley wire, and when they were di- rected upon the shores and tumbling river, | and the lights in the open cars were turned off. the scene was rarely beautiful. It looked as though such (moon) “light as never was, on land or sea,” had trans- formed the scene. But as the cars moved cn, and Mr. Stieringer changed the screens, far more magical, wonderful and startling effects were secured. Now it looked as though one were seeing with Dante-eyes, so red and fierce was the scene, and so darkly red the shadowy banks’ between which the river tossed waves of blood. Further down, beneath the new steel arch | bridge, where the furious rapids were toss- ing the spray fifty feet or more in the air, red and green lights were used. Then the plain lights were shown again, and then, where the rapids are strongest and wildest, the red screens were used with an effect whose wierdness the contrast vastly heightenea. So impressive was the spectacle that for several minutes there was absolute silence in the cars and then a cheer of admiration broke out. From that point to the end of the road the colors were changed rapidly, with beautiful ef- fect, and at midnight the party returned to the falls. It is said that the success of the experiment insures the illumination of the gorge by search lights next season, and that means the addition to the at- tractions of Niagara of a wonderfully thrill- ing night spectacle, and one which, once seen, will not be forgotten. Former visit- ors to Niagara will recall that when the state reservation was private property, there was for the last season or two a successful illumination of the upper rapids and of the falls themselves, and a height- ening of their wildness and wierdness and beauty by a similar use of colored screens. The scene was one to remember, and Ni- agara visitors have reason to congratulate themselves that private enterprise again proposes thus to enhance the night wonder of Niagara. For you may croak as you please about “naturai” beauty, nature is too prone to veil her beauty at night; and if esthetes be shocked at an artificial color- ing of the water, and find no compensa- tion for loss of naturalness in such be- wildering riotousness of color and gro- tesqueness as one can hardly dream of, even they must approve the lights which make visible the natural beauty when Garkness would otherwise veil the scene. —————— Costly From Puck. Brownell—It isn’t the bicycle which costs the money. It is the bicycle attach- ments.”" Harkness (admonishingly) — “True — but then you should not form one for every pretty bicycle girl you meet. ——_+e+—_____ “Want” ads. in The Star pay because they bring answers. HOUSEHOLD HINTS How to Prepare Succulent Pork in the Best Style. EARLY HOURS FOR YOUNG CHILDREN The Use of Cooking Thermometers is on the Increase. A FEW ‘TIMELY RECIPES Written for The Evening Star. While the pig per se is not a specially at- tractive subject for prolonged study, there are some points for the treatment of his porkship, after he becomes such, that every housekeeper can bear in mind with ad- vantage to herself. These points, succinct- ly stated, are: That western pork is better than the eastern, because it is corn fed. ‘That in ordering pork for a roast you should always call for young pork. ‘That the reason some pork cooked with beans cooks away to a sea of greasy, crum- bly fat is because it is from an old hog. That the way to distinguish young pork when buying is that salt pork from young pigs or yearlings is firm, hard and close in texture, and its skin is thin and smooth, while that from an old residenter is rough, scaly and full of bristles. That clear, white pork is better than that with a pinkish or yellowish tinge. That pork tenderloin alone is tasteless, and has to be treated with various high condiments to be made palatable. That in boiling a ham you should add one cup of vinegar and one cup of sugar. That the liquor in which ham 1s boiled makes a good foundation for pea soup. That it is much cheaper to buy a fresh shoulder of pork and corn it for yourself, allowing one gallon of salt to five gallons of water. That pork drippings make one of the best frying mediums for chickens or fish. That apple sauce should always be an accom- paniment for roast pork. That celd roast pig, sliced thin, Most equal to the breast of turkey. That the leaf lard from the kidneys is best. That old or very salt ham should be parbolled five minutes before broiling. That fried ham cooked too long will be- come hard and dry. is al- Sleep and plenty of it is a most important desideratum to the growing child. It is a great mistake for mothers to allow any child under the age of fourteen to get in- to the habit of sitting up until his elders retire, or until he himself falls asleep on chair or sofa from sheer weariness, and has to be dragged an unwilling captive to bed. For the little children, let the supper be light but nutritious; then, after a little playtime, or a half hour of reading or Story telling, carry them off to bed. Let them early learn to go to sleep alone, without a light, if near the rooms where the family are sitting, but if some distance off, with a night light, especially if the child is apt to be at all nervous or afraid. For older children, 9 o'clock should be the limit, and, if possible, books should be laid aside a half hour before that to give the brain a chance to rest. “Early to bed” is not only a distinct benefit to the chil- dren themselves, but the busy mother spe- cially needs the evening to herself. The sale of cooking thermometers for household as well as hotel use is decidedly on the increase, according to the house- furnishing dealers. This is attributed to the fact that cooking is coming to be re- garded more and more as a science, re- quiring accuracy in its prosecution in order to produce the best results. For some time it was necessary to buy the imported ther- mometers, which were very expensive, but American manufacturers have risen to the occasion, and excellent ones can now be purchased here for about $%. They are made of iron and porcelain, the standard holding the mercury inclining backward, so that the marking can be readily read. The correct heat for baking various differ- ent foods is thus set down in the ther- mometer: For roasts in ovens: Pork, degrees, beef, 310 degrees; veal, 320 de- grees; mutton, 300 degrees. Puff pastry re- quires a temperature of 340 degrees; bread, 340 degrees; pastry, 320 degrees, and meat pies, 200 degrees. Hickory nuts are again in market, and hickory nut cake. “follows as the night the day.” Rub to a cream one and one-half cups granulated sugar and one-half cup butter. Add three-quarters of a cup of Sweet milk and two and one-half cups of fluur, through which has been sifted two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Stir in one teaspoonful vanilla and one cupful hickory nut meats. Lastly, fold in lightly the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a long tin lined with buttered paper on the bottom in a medium hot oven. It will require about an hour's baking, and should rise in the pan to its full height be- fore it begins te brown. A tapioca apple pudding recipe that lays this flattering unction to its soul, ‘All men are fond of it,” hails from Philadelphia. Soak one-half cup of tapioca over night. In the morning cook until clear and tender in a pint of water, not allowing it to be- come too stiff. When clear, sweeten to taste, add slices of tart, tender apples, and put in oven just long enough to brown. Send to the table in the baking dish, and serve with sugar and cream. This is also delicious with fresh peaches, cut in little Pieces. When preparing sandwiches for a large company, it 1% sometimes necessary to make them several hours in advance of the serving. If a napkin is wrung out of hot water and wrapped around the sand- wiches, which should then be placed in a cool room, they will keep as fresh and moist as though just spread. Hot meats and soups will inevitably spoil if set away covered closely. There must always be an escape for the hot air. Broths must be thoroughly cooled before going into the ice chest, and then only lightly covered. A novel but efficacious method of wash- ing glasses in Turkey is to put them in cold water and scrub them with green leaves, usually fig. This gives them a superb polish, without the use of soap. In baking “Brown Betty,” try adding a little molasses. As a rule, “Brown Betty” —otherwise most admirable—is apt to be i dry, a defect remedied by this addi- tion. Never put meat away in the wrapping paper In which it comes from the butcher's. ‘Take out, lay on a plate, and cover with a ciean cloth kept for that purpose. eS Bachelors and Electricity. From the Chautauqua. Whether, in the long run, electricity has done the solitary bachelor a good turn is a debatable question, but it has certainly eased the burden of his domestic anxieties. While he is dressing he connects his elec- tric coffee pot, and the brewing of his morning beverage proceeds forthwith. Meanwhile his eggs are being cooked in the electric boiler, or a chop is being done to a turn on the electric gridiron, which gives an unmatched flavor to the meat. As he sits down to the tuble slices of bread placed in the electric toast rack and are browned before his eyes. If he be an adept of the chafing dish, he can produce = subtlest culinary effects without fear of failure. IT IS : AGOOD THING.” ‘This is the verdict of every woman who uses the Imperial Hair Regenerator, which instantly restores GRAY HAIR to its“own color, or makes BLEACHED HAIR any color desired. edoriess, lasting. It does not contain an atom of matter, and will not stain the scalp, and baths do not affect It; neither does curl- ing or erimping. Price, $1.50 and $8.00. SEVEN SHADES. OBTAIN YOUR OWN. Imperial Chemical Mfg. Co., 292 Fifth ave., N. ¥. In Wi and applied by MARLBOR- ova ¥. Tie Get. and ine HATTIE M. 1th and G sts. 2.w, at Streck Costume. AN OUTFIT Aeris Costene FOR AUTUMN. ALL SORTS OF GOWNS Intended for Wear in the City and in the Country, DETAILS OF THE FEMININE TOILET Dresses and the Proper Hats to Go With Them. ON THE WEARING OF RINGS Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK,, October 14, 1897. CAN GET MORE hats into a given space than any other member of the fam- fly,” said a city mouse, as she bent over an ark that she was packing for au- tumn holliday. “I don’t see what you want of such a milliner’s shopful,”” said a country mouse dubtously. {No lady has fewer pronounced the city mouse, with authority; “many have twelve or fifteen.” “4 . “Oh,” said the country mouse meekly. Then, to get away from a dangerous sub- Ject, “I wonder why I like to-see you wear so many rings, when such ‘display looks vulgar on other people.” —” “Perhaps,” answered the., city mouse blandly, “it is because I wear them proper- ly.” ei te “Is there a rule about wings?” ‘The coun- try mouse jumped at the opening, + “Certainly; only one pronounced color to a hand,’ ‘declared the gily mouse with the air of one imparting knowledge that may gave nations. r The country mouse looked. in silence at her plain gold band. “My right hand is blue, my left red,” continued the city mouse in the tone of a mentor. “Red, white and blue is patriotic,” said the country mouse meditativeiy. “But patriotism must be judicious,” in- sisted the city mouse. “Now, this big wr- quoise with its circle of diamonds goes on the little finger,” pulling all the rin ff and adjusting them again one by one. e guard ring that holds it is a smaller tur- quoise. Then on the third finger I wear on- ly diamonds and pearls; there is no dis- cord. This marquise of diamonds and ru- bies goes on the little finger of the other hand; its guard is a ruby. The third finger gets these two big diamonds and a ruby and that half circle of diamonds. My stones were bought to wear together; some peo- pl aren't,” and the city mouse looked down with satisfaction at her finger iis. “But which of my hats do you like picking up a small toque briskly. “That.” Short Walking Suit. “This?” The city mouse was surprised. “This {s meant for nothing but to go with my short walking suit. It is pretty,” she assented, inspecting the mite of black velvet, decorated with a big paste buckle and two sweeping black plumes that curled completely.around it, crossing behind. “Sce how I wear it,” and the toque was set atop the trim little head, covered with blonde curls. ‘The buckle comes on one side of the front, and so, to balance it, I stick in, just over the other eye, this paste hat pin. The knot of cerise velvet and those pale roses are rather becoming, don’t you think, drooping behind on my hair? “Have you seen the dress I wear with it?” Buckle and pin went into eclipse, while the city mouse dove into the ark, and, from among the things already pack- ed, fished out a gown. “Dark blue rough stuff, corded with black: skirt comes to my boot tops; skirt trimmed with three rows of narrow black silk braid. Blouse bodice of same material, with broad black velvet belt and velvet bands across the bosom. Blouse has narrow jacket fronts that show a navy blue silk vest inside. A mite of a cape collar, with flat epaulets, comes up about the throat in a storm col- lar; lined with cerise silk, edged with rows of braid. That's for tramping in the moun- tains of North Carolina, say, if I go down pretty soon to Asheville or the Hot Springs. “I might have had a plainer hat, I sup- pose, but I didn’t want to look as if I were out shooting.” “I lke that dress,” said the country mouse, “better than anything else in your wardrobe.” “Better than this?” asked the city mouse, with a smile of confidence, picking up some- thing that rustled softly and gave out a delicate pérfume. “Yes, much better; it‘tooks‘as if it were meant for such good times.” A Party Gown. “Why, this is meant for much better times, child; this is a party gown.” The city mouse held up the lustrous skirt of white silk, brocaded with loops and ends of bright and pale pink ribbon. Two nar- row ruches of pink mousselite de sole ran about the shining breadths dt the bottom. The city mouse patted the silk lovingly and held out the bodice“for ifspection. - “It’s cut low and square, you see. The lace is fastened with opiils over the bosom and carried away in curves under the arms. That's because I'm téo ‘slim. Look at these make-believe sleeves With lace frills over them. 2 z The country mouse loéked colors are lovely; you' mu: fairy princess with that‘on. The city mouse laughed ‘a laugh of pleas- ure. “I thought I could wake you up. See id said: ‘The feel like a ‘This was the bodice of a dinner gown. A. little decollete vest of cream-colored silk was made with long, tight sleeves. It had a big Medici collar that was faced with pinky velvet. Against the face of the velvet came an exquisite lace ruffle. A guimpe of pink mor ine de soie formed the decolletage and wag gathered into a broad, swathing belt ofzpink velvet. Un- der the belt little lace basques struggled out behind. bid “That is the sweetest thing I own,” sald the city mouse ‘enthusiastically, holding up a dog collar of pear! : “It is dear,” agreed.‘ country mouse generously, “but yor ww I. don’t go out much evenings; show me more of your day dresses.” . eee * Of Smooth The city "mouse: ‘assented graciously. “Here's a calling gown,” she said, lifting something in mauve from a trunk tray. The calling gown was of smooth cloth, cut in a bell skirt, dotted with palm leaves in deeper mauve embroidery. The bodice was of mauve mousseline de soie in front under a small square bolero of guipure. The belt of mauve velvet started under the arms and curved down to a long buckle of an- tique silver. Tae back of the bodice was shaped in plain tailor fashion. A mousse- line neck ruche and a mauve velvet hat, trimmed with pink and black, were laid out for finisaments. “That is not one of my favorites,” said the city mouse. “I don’t care fer mauve, though mamma says it is my color. Ti blue is a heap prettier.” The country mouse picked a thread from the mauve frock and was quiet. The blue frock was a sumptuous dre: turquoise velvet, shi almost, as plush. It was edged at bottom with a narrow band of sable. The front breadta s overlaid to some height with cream guipure. The bodice was a little blue jacket, edged with sab and_ covered, sleeves and all, with guipure. It opened on a blue mousseline front and was belted with a pink silk sash whose ends reached the ground. A boa of rose-colored feath- ers and a great hat of turquoise velvet covered with pink ostrich plumes were held up triumphantly. Plainer Clothes. “Beautiful,” gasped the country mouse; “but haven't you plainer clothes?” The city mouse looked disappointed. “If yeu don’t want to see really nice things,” she began, “‘there’s—well, there’s the gray coshmere. ‘The cashmere proved to be a trim frock, With three or four tucks for skirt trim- ming. The bodice of pink glace silk was laid in minute tucks up and down and all around. A square bolero of cas opened on the left side. left front w: turned back in a triangular revers, faced with guipure. There was a gray silk belt and an empire collar with pink lining. mouse beamed all over. id, “‘and I could al But if 1 make you silk pull over everything to show me, you'll never get your packing done. ELL NY OSBORN. A WASHER —-+e- WOMAN LINGUIST. Mrs. Antonishin of Braddock Speaks Eleven Tongues. From the Pittsburg Dispatch. There ic a woman in Braddock who can read, write and speak any language from Sanscrit to “heg” Latin. The faculty came to her as naturally as swimming does to a duck. Her knowledge is not the result of teaching, but ef association with peopie of every tongue. She speaks eleven lan- guages fluently, yet she struggles over the washtub in order that her six children can go to school. Mrs. Julia Antonishin was born at Aros- lamos, Hungary, thirty-two years ago. Her parents were German. When she was six years old they moved to Aninina, Germany, where she attended school for six years, this being the limit of schooling provided by the government. Aninina was a town of factories, where people of every clime were employ It was like the Babyion of old, so great was the confusion of tongues. In the streets and at school the children were strangers to each other because of this barrier of misunderstanding. Time, however, unearthed the key to the situa- tion, and eventually the little ones suc- ceeded in mastering the languages of their playmate In the schools at Aninina they Were taught the German and Magyar ngues. ‘Nine languages I picked up with the children,” said Mrs. Antonishin yesterday at her home, No. 935 Washington avenue. “Some were casy and some were hard. I was not the only chiid to do it. The Slavish, Hungarian, Polish, Russian, Bo- hemian, Roumanian, Servian, Magyar and Croatian languages are much the same. That the letters are the same, but of course you do not speak them alike. I can speak, read and write eleven lan- guages. Sometimes the ‘squires here call me to interpret. It is not enough. I must work to get education for my children. My husband labors at the Carnegie furnace, but he does not make enough. I want so much to get to be interpreter in the courts. Then I could educate my children. “Some tell me to get a petition for all the ‘squires and people to sign, and then send it to the governor. Is that right? Is that the way to get to be an interpretor to educate your children?” Mrs. Antonishin was ironing. Her hands and her face, the stoop of her shoulders and the appearance of her kitchen testified to ier labors. Her youngest child is six years old and the eldest sixteen years. Susie, the eldest, and John, aged fourteen have the mother’s faculty for picking up foreign tongues. With the exception of the baby all the children attend the Brad- dock schools. George Antonishin came to Braddock from Germany nine years ago. His wife and children followed two years later. For four years before her marriage and for six yeurs after Mrs. Antonishin was Seo in ate, jcoomen post office ser- vice, where her knowledge of langua brought her great prestige. Sar When Mrs. Antonishin is not washing she is ironing, and when doing neither she is trying to figure cut an economic policy that will give an education to her children. Miles and Knots. From Harper's Round Table. A statute mile is 5,280 feet long. It is our standard of itinerary measure adopted from the English, who in turn adopted it from the Romans. A Roman military pace by which distances were measured was the length of the step taken by the Roman sol- diers, and was approximately five feet long; a thousand of these paces were callea in Latin a mille. The English miie is there- fore, a purely arbitrary measure, enacted into a legal measure by a statute passed during the reign of Queen Elizabeth; it has no connection with any scale in nature. A nauticul miie, on the other hand, is equal to one-sixtieth part of the length ot a degree of a great circle of earth. Rut the circumference of the earth is nowhere @ true circle; its radius of curvature is va- riable; hence the nautical mile, as a matter of fact, depends upon the shape as well as the size of the globe suiled over; and hence, Strictly speaking, the length of the nauti- cal mile should vary with the latitude from’ 6,046 feet at the equator to 6,109 feet at the pole. Such extreme accuracy is not neces- sary in navigating, and cannot be well a tained without undue labor. The English admiralty, therefore, have adopted 6,080 feet as the length of a nautical mile, which corresponds with the length of one-sixtieth of a degree—or one minute of arc—-of a Great circle in latitude 48 degrees. The United States coast survey has adopted the value of the nautical mile “as equal to one- sixtieth part of the length of a degree cn the great circle of a sphere whose surface is equal to the surface of the earth. This gives the length of one nautical mile as equal to 6,080.27 feet, which is very nearly the value of the admiralty mile adopted in the English navy. Practically the nautical mile is 800 feet longer than the statute mile. In other worés, one’ nautical mile is equal to 1:1515 statute miles; or one statute mile is equal to 0.969 nautical mile. Mul- tiply nautical miles by 1.1515 and the pro- the Jnited States Government will not buy alum baking powders at any price, and yet most of the cheap baking powders contain alum. leveland’s Baking Powder is purchased by the U. S. Govern- ment. This fact in itself is a guarantee of quality. Cleveland Baking Powder Co., New York. FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN The Separate Waist Popular and Pretty as 3 Ever. From Corduroy and Flannel to Silk and Lace and Always Proper. Written fer The Evening Star. The tailor-made gown has enly added to the demand for separete waists, and so from season to season the popularit}? of the fancy bodice is assured by each new turn of Dame Fashion's wheel. Separate Ss are divided into two classes, shirt waists for ordinary occa- sions and outdoor sports and fancy waists for the theuter, little dinners and all fes tivities of a minor nature. For visiting gowns one is supposed to have a whole cestume, without the frivolity of a sepa- rate waist, but as this may often consist of a tailor-made coat and skirt, a shirt waist will be necessary with it, although the coat is not supposed to be doffed while making calls. Smart women are having house gowns made of checked taffeta silk cr of chevict, thus doing away with shirt waists for indoor wear to some extent. The shirt waists made up for wear this winter differ very slightly from last summer's models. They droop slightly over the belt, as did those made late in Au- gust; they nave smaller sleeves, which stand up instead of falling from the shoul- der; they have the same yoke, with two points, which has been found to fit so weil, and they are worn with white collars or with fancy stocks, according to the taste of the wearer. The flannel shirt waist, which is so dainty in summer, made of material light in color, delicately striped, is another mat- ter when one sees it reduced to dark col- ors and heavier stuffs. Frankly, it is ugly. Yet it is very popular, and can be made a very smart garment. Plaids are most used, and are made with three wide bias tucks on each side of the front, slanting from shoulder toward waist line, or reliev- ed by narrow tucks below each shoulder. But some of the best houses follow the English model in making flannel shirt ists, making the sleeve a little larger than the French model for the season, and simply full the flannel on the yoke at the uider seams, putting a clas band of the flannel down the front for the studs, and turning out a garment which may be very simple, but which is also clumsy and generally unbecoming. Velvet, velveteen and corduroy shirt waisis are quite as popular as though brand new, and the heaviness of the material makes much trimming inadmissible. Plaid velvet is very becoming and soft, and may be made either severe or dressy by a change in the collar. Corduroy waists are especial- ly well adapted for wear on a bicycie, and yet are very becoming when worn with a smart, tailor-made skirt of some gay plaid. This praise applies only to castor and gray shades >f corduroy. In the darker shad it is so much like velvet or velveteen th it makes little difference which material is used for a shirt waist, the effect will be the same. The silk shirt waists are legion, and are made with so many d'fferent little tucks and frills that one does not know where to draw the line and searcely knows where the silk shirt waist leaves off and the separate bod- ice—elaborate enough for evening wear. begins. Taffetas of delicate shades of gray or brown, showing designs of flowers and leaves woven in like a brocade, are very lovely. Nothing prettier has been seen this season. Plain taffetas in all colors are worn as they were last year, but generally they are relieved by tucks or rufiles. Gay plaids of soft silks, made up with bias ef- fects, are seen on every side, while the Roman stripes, which bade fair to be most popular of all, are seldom seen. Stylish and Handy. Separate waists for wear on ordinary oc- casions are oz taffeta silk, ruffled and tucked and trimmed elaborately, or of soft liberty velvet combined with stk. Quite fetching was one on exhibition this week, made of blue taffeta, which had pin stripes of black running through it. The waist was fastened on the’left side and the beauty came from the way in which the pin strips had been made to shew in the tiny tucks which ran up and down the front, and in the pleated, narrow ruffles which concealed the hooks which fastened the bodice. Yokes either narrow or wide, usually of white or cream satin, covered with em- broidery or lace, are much worn. Half the elaborate waists made are to have them, if one can believe the signs of the season. A waist of black and white striped satin, opening ov:r a yoke of tucked cream satin, is very smart. The model shown looked as if a tight fitting waist, tucked from the top of the neck to the waist line, with sleeves also tucked the whole way, had first been made, and then a loose, bloused, low, necked waist of striped black and white satin had put over it, opening on one side, and laced up with a white cord, showing the tucked white satin under waist. The black and white satin was cleverly turned back over the shoulders to give the necessary finish to the sleeves, which otherwise would have been quite tight-fitting, without any relief on the shouldcr. With this waist a silver girdle was worn. Indeed one have a silver girdle, or a Roman sash, or some elaborate fizish for the bottom of the present bodic Jet or steel buckles, real or imitation gems, and gold and silver girdles, are ni ary complements to the Russian effect. A waist of cream satin covered with black muslin de soie combined with inser. tions of black thread lace, the yoke outlined with black jet, and over the shoul- ders tiny pleated raffies of the musiin soie was most effective and hardly ine pensive. Another cream satin was cover with black Heniton lace, with rufle shoulder and at wrist of black chiffon. lace S are exceedingly beautiful, would quite tempt one, under the stress of having a smart theater waist at as little expense as possible, to sacrifice the thread lace shawl which had been in the family for perhaps a generation past. This is being done, and whether the ambitious } women who do it will repent remains to be seen. Liberty in Silk and Color. Cerise, pink, white or blue liberty silk and cherry taffeta are among the materials most popular for theater and dinner waists, but this is only a beginning of the enumer- ation of the materials of which they are made. One can only advise, trim them elaborately, have them of as gay colors as one can wear with a becoming effect and then keep them in their place. Do not have the whole wardrobe of separate | waists with one or two skirts. This has actually been done within the last few years and should be avoicel, especially yy | Women of ample proportions | With the shirt waists a well-made skirt of check or plaid is most fashionable, and with the elaborate waists black moire or black satin are still in favor. MABEL BOYD. SS eee SELLING HIS MEMOIRS. A Tramp’s Brilliant Men’ the Price of a Me: From the Buffalo Commercial. The audacity and wit of the American tramp are proverbial and undoubtedly they often save him from harsher treatment than his merits or demerits entitle him to. A country house near Buffalo recently re- ceived a call from one of the species. The man was dirty, unkempt and unmistakably a tramp. He also bore the signs of addic- tion to strong drink, and general worthless- ness. The humorous touch that finished the picture, as he came up with a genial smile and a good deal of manner, was a round and fresh clerical collar, which had evidently been lifted very recently from the premises of the neighboring college. of Raising “Madam,” he said, “I am a missionary but lately returned from long years of service in China, and other heathen lands. For the sake of health and relaxation I am renewing my acquaintance with nature and my native lahd in this unconventional manner. To help pay my way I am selling for the merely nominal price of fifteen cents this record of my missionary experi- ences.”” The fellow made his speech with a look in his eyes that showed his enjoyment of the game. The volume was a dirty cast- vay, rescued from an ash barrel, but still “The Life of the Rev. So-and-So, Many Years Missionary in the Far Ea: dear,” said one of the ladies, “Haven't you'a clean copy? “Madam, there are others, but they are with my baggage. And they are twenty- five cents a co he added; “this is the popular edition One of the company, charmed with the style and impudence of the scalawag, went in to get the change. While she was gone the missionary and lover of nature leaned against the veranda post, wiped his brow with a shining coattail and cheerfully re- marked: “Ladies, the Lord is giving us de- lightful weather, is He not?” Then ho took his money, waved his dismantled derby affably, and went on along the high- way. The incident was happily closed by the purchaser of the “Life” of the departed brother reading aloud, when she could catch her breath, these opening lines of the precious narrative: “I was born of humble parentage in the town of Glaston- bury, Co From Puck. Mrs. Newlywed—“I'm going to sprinkle a little poison on this piece of angel cake and put it where the mice can get it; I think it will kill them. Mr. Newlywed—“Why, of course it will! But why do you put the poison on it?” Sete EO ATES A number of Russian lady admirers of Dr. Nansen are preparing for the arctic explorer a somewhat unique gift, consist- ing of a carpet with a map of the north pole regions embroidered in silks. The places visited by him in his famous voyage will be worked in silver and gold thread. = = “ MUTUAL. From Life. eas Saat oe sa pe pores ye eee an, I ‘ute miles by 0.869, the product will be ne int —. a—“Not if you don’t.” shall have to kiss your wife in the third 4