Evening Star Newspaper, May 8, 1897, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MAY 8, 1897-24 PAGES. LE PRIX DES DAMES eee An Event That Attracts the Social World of Paris. BEAUTIFUL WOMEN AND GOWNS Some Welcome Hints for Spring and Summer Wear. STYLISH TENNIS COSTUMES Byecial Correspondence of The Evening Star. PARIS, May 1, 1897. T THE CONCOURS Hyppique the race for the Prix des Dames called out many beautiful wo- men in beautiful spring costumes. The \| Comtesse de Saiat- Leger wore a some- what striking dress of a dull green foul- ard printed with irregular patterns around the upper part of the skirt co as to give the effect of a short hip apron. This patterned part of the goods was em- broidered with threads of gold and ecru silk, this raising of the surface adding to the illusion of a separate material. The skirt itself was rather short and rounded at the bottom. The corsage formed a blouse in front, of green mouseeline de soie. Opening wide upon this was a close- fitting bodice of the skirt material, trim- med with horizontal bands of green vel- vet ribbon starting from the shoulder and under arm seems, stitched down upon the bodice with gold threads and caught with gold. and mosaic buttons just over the blouse edges. The close-fitting sleeves were Wnished with little capes upon the shoul- ders end were patterned from wrist to elbow with the same wavy lines appear- ing on the hip apron. The neck finish was @ smart green bow under a collar, and the hat, a smal! flat affair, of green straw trimmed with black wings. The Comtesse de Kermartin wore a very summer-like gown of cornflower blue veti- ing. The skirt just touched the ground. ‘The upper part, round the waist, was made with five rows of gathers taken out of the width of the stuff. The lower part was trimmed with three flounces in front and eight behind, all edeged with a moire ruche to match the veiling. The bodice was of cornflower blue silk, covered with a blouse of the veiling, which was embroidered all over with an applique of cream Jace and which parted at the waist in front to show the silk foundation. The neck and waistband were of cream-colored velvet. Silk sleeves, @ huge jabot of mousseline de sole and a big picture hat of white straw finished this show gown of the grand stand. The hat had a wide brim and a high crown. The brim was covered above and below with thickly placed ruchings of blue mousseline de soie. The crown was garlanded with corntiowers and trimme@ with white plumes. A Taffeta Gown. Another dress was of shot blue and green taffeta figured with great arabesque designs in blu The skirt was flat in front and at the sides, but there were gathers be- hind which developed into godets from the hips backward. The bottom was rounded and just escaped the ground. It was trim- med with five rows of gathered blue satin ribbon about the bottom. The corsage was @ blouge of white mousseline de sole fall- ing over a broad belt of blue taffeta com- ing well up under the arms. Over the sshoulders was a pelerine and collar of the skirt material, made in one piece, cut in crenelations and forming a bolero in front and under the arms. The collar extended into epaulets upon the shoulders, and, like the bolero, was stitched about with gold and silver tinsel embroidery and edged with frills of narrow lace gathered very full. The neckband was of blue taf- feta, with broad ruches of lace above. The hat wes of white lace trimmed with roses. The Marquise de Pully appeared in white veiling, the skirt of her dress rather short and sun-pleated. The material was em- broidered all over for some distance from the bottom, said distance being greater at the back than in front, with garlands of flowers worked in dark blue and gold. The pleats of the skirt diminished in size from the bottom until they were lost in she waistband. Under the skirt was a separate skirt of white taffeta, which formed a lin- ing. The corsage was a blouse of white taffeta, laid in extremely fine pleats and Worn under a jacket of the skirt material. The jacket was half fitting and closed with two enormous mother-of-pearl buttons. It turned back in front in huge scuare-cor- nered revers embroidered like the sleeves in blue and gold designs matching those of the draperies. A dark blue velvet cravat as worn at the neck under a high collar. ‘The hat was a jaunty turban of blue straw trimmed with yellow jonquils. For the Tennis Court. : At the tennis matches in the Bois de Boulogne one sees good play and good gowns. Mme. de la Mar was among the spectators yesterday afternoon in a very fresh toilet of white foulard printed with large pink flowers with a touch of mauve @t regular distances. The skirt was made with three deep sun-pleated flounces, ex- tending from the waist to the ground and diminishing in width downward. The bo! tom was rounded and touched the grass. The corsage was an accordion-pleated blouse gathered at the waist and with a yoke of pink taffeta covered with em- broidery in quaint patterns worked in white and mauve comet ribbons. The vleeves were pleated from the elbow to the wrist and had lace cuffs. The waist and neckbands were of broad white ribbons. ‘The hat was a Leghorn flat with a soft crown of white satin and a wreath of pink and white daisies. A dress of green and white taffeta was yet more interesting. It was checked in large Bold squares “and so cut as to look seamless, the patterns matching all round. The skirt was trimmed at the bottom with a flounce of green taffeta edged with white lace-like embroidery and festooned with openwork insertion. The corsage was a blouse fastening down the left side and closing under a draped scarf of green taf- feta edged with lace resembling that on the skirt flounces. The waistband and col- lar were of draped green taffeta, fastening under rosettes of lace and embroidery. The hat was composed entirely of white eglan- tine roses and follage. Bicycle Costumes. Bicycle ¢ostumes multiply faster than buttercups in the grass. Those worn by the smart Frenchwomen who ride every morning in the Bois are the trimmest and neatest to be found in any part of the world. Three out of four are cut with bloomers and the fourth is worn by an En- glishwoman or American, probably. One of the best suits I have seen lately was of dark green serge, having the seams out- Mned with white whipcord. A dark green silk blouse was worn under a trim jacket ending in sharp corners at the waist or just above it and turning back at either Side in front in large revers faced with white and stitched down with green. A white kid belt with a big buckle fastened the waist. Meeting the bloomers were dark red stockings stitched with black, of the same shade as the dark red cravat under the high collar. A soft felt hat com- pleted the outfit with its red band and stiff black quills. For Evening Wear. Some very charming «evening dresses have been sent out by Paris houses within a few days. A dainty pink frock for a young girl is of rosy gauze sun-pleated over a taffeta ground of the same shade. Round the bottom is a delicate running em- broldery of leaves and flowers done in pink and gold, and dots of embroidery are scat- tered at wide intervals here and there over the cobwebby material. The corsage is a bolero in form, of pink taffeta elaborately worked with gold thread and pearls. The bolero is closed in front and fastens under the left arm. It fs quite short and straight, cut low and square in the neck and. loose at the bottom. The decolletage is edged with three tiny lace frill: The short gauze sleeves are fasten- ed with knots of roses on the shoulders. The under bodice is of pink taffeta, nearly hidden by the broad draped belt of pink satin. A handsome evening dress for a matron is of a heavy black brocaded satin. The front of the skirt is draped with a rich searf of white lace, which is hung in from the waist at the sides so as to form an apron in front, the ends hanging to the ground from the hip. The close-fitting bodice is draped with lace also. ELLEN OSBORN. _——— BABY BASK ETS. Simple and Dainty and Useful for Holding Toys. From Harper's Bazar. A pretty and dainty baby basket can be made by using an ordinary eight or ten- cent chip basket as a foundation. It should be covered and lined neatly with a cheap figured material. About two yards of pretty challi, silkoline, sateen or dotted Swiss, or any other suitable material, would answer the purpose. First line the bottom of the basket inside and out by applying the material flat and sewing it through the basket; next cut a piece of goods wide enough to go from the bottom of the basket inside to the bot- tom outside (allowing, of course, a little to turn in), and long enough to go around the basket; sew the ends of this together. Now take another strip of goods for the peckets; if the material is very thin it may be doubled to make it stronger, and by stitching the edge the necessity for binding or hemming the opening of the pocket will be avoided. Box-pleat this strip to make a suitable number of pockets, and stitch by machine to the goods lining around the | basket. Stitch firmly also the sides of each pocket. Now slip.the goods on the basket, with the pockets on the outside. Slit the goods where necessary to slip over the handle of the basket, then sew up again. Finish the inside of the basket first by turning up the goods and sewing through the basket; then finish the outside in the same man- ner, making the stitches as inconspicuous as possible. If preferred, the pockets may be made separately and stitched on. To make the basket look a little more fluffy and baby-like a plece of lace, either gathered or straight, may be sewed on the rim and falling inside. The handle is to be covered with a flounce of the goods trimmed with lace and tied up in the cen- ter. The effect of the whole is charming. The pockets of the basket are to be used, of course, for all the accessories of baby's toilet, while the interior is used for hold- ing the little dresses and flannels. The successful accomplishment of this baby basket suggested the idea of making a basket of the same kind, but covered with strong linen or denim, to be used as a receptacle for a child's toys and games, so that in the evening there would be no more excuse for playthings left lying about. It proved a great success, and I should strongly advise mothers and aunts who value an orderly home to try the ex- periment. ——____+e-_____ It matters little what it is that you want —whether a situation or a servant—a want" ad. in The Star will reach the i person who can fill your need. Mrs. Ghoul—“Ah, funerals isn’t what they used to be in ‘when we ‘ad ‘am sangwishes and sherry wine; but now it's as ® bit 0’ cake and a cup o’ tea. Ahi” “LAUDATOR TEMPORIS ACTI.” HOUSEHOLD HINTS Dia you ever try fried oucumbers? They are really much nicer than fried egg plant. Slice lengthwise nice fresh cucumbers that have been peeled and laid in salted ice water for half an hour. Dry on a clean towel, then dip in beaten egg, and then in cracker crumbs, well salted, and fry in plenty of sweet meat drippings or lard. Of course it goes without saying that everything of the kind should be served piping hot. Try to pay some attention to the lunches your children take to school. In the first place make. them lunch. Most chil- dren disdain to do this, and it is injurious for them to go from early morning to din- ner with nothing to sustain them. Eat- ing after getting home in the middle of the afternoon spoils the appetite for dinner, ard that makes “piecing” necessary be- fore goirg to bed. Lunch should be plain and substantial. A meat sandwich, of nice fresh bread, with a little sweet butter, is quite sufficient. The meat may be any kind that is at hand so that ~it is good. Pies, cakes and bonbons should be strict- ly prohibited. Neither should pickles form @ prominent part of this lunch. Bread and jam cr jelly will answer, if the child likes fruit and fusses for pie, but pie it should never have, for dinner or lunch, though, of course, that precaution will not be ob- served. Going without lunch causes ner- vous headaches, and overeating later causes indigestion, and so it goes. Put up the lunch yourself, and see that it is car- ried. It will be eaten. There is @ good deal of complaint about dishor.est weight in buying _ groceries. Every housewife should have that handy thing, a pair of scales, and weigh every- thing that comes into the house in the shepe of weighable groceries. Then if she finds that she is being cheated by short weight, she should drop that grocer like a hot potato, and tell all her friends about him. Scales’ are handy, anyhow, because a great many fine recipes call for things by weight. Den't bother to black the stove every moriirg. Once a week and a good coat is e1ctgh. When you have finished the work of the kitchen, take a sheet of old newspeper, and crushing it, rub the warm stove vigorously all over. ‘It will “shine” it up wonderfully. This is excellent for mes off a smoked coffeepot or tea kettle ISO. Men sometimes complain that they can’t get mush such as their mothers used to make. As a matter of fact, most of the mush that one gets at hotels, and even on private tables, is not fit to eat. Here is the recipe for mush, given by a good old Ken- tucky grand dame: Put perfectly fresh water over the fire, in quantity you want to use. You can’t measure cornmeal or water by pint or quart, she says. Let the water come to a quick boil; then salt it till it is brackish. Ascertain that by tasting. Have your cornmeal well sifted, and a nice slender paddle to stir. Pick up the corn- meal, a handful at a time, and stir gently into the water, which must be kept boiling briskly at first. When half the meal you expect to use is stirred in, put no more in for a few minutes, but let the mass cook, and stir it briskly all the time. Then stir in the remainder of the meal till the mass is too thick to stir easily. Then set back a little, and stjy that cooking, bubbling mass for at least ten minutes. After it is as smooth as can be, place on the back of a pretty hot stove and let it simmer for three hours, stirring it now and then, and hav- ing a care that it does not burn at the bot- tom. Eaten hot for supper, with half cream and half milk, or with nice, sweet butter, it is delicious and there is no raw taste about it. If it is to be fried, turn into @ square mold to cool. 1t should be all of two inches thick to slice nicely, and should be a little thicker in consistency than for eating with milk. Take up what is desired to use for that purpose, and put it where it will keep hot, and stir more meal into the pot, for frying purposes. Meat drip- pings make the sweetest frying grease, and there should be plenty of it. “I want some nice flour gravy, thick and sweet, like mother used to maké,” says the man of the house. He will not eat fried steak, but he wants gravy anyhow. Slices of boiled or baked beef are nice fried; cut a little thick and dipped in egg, then bread crumbs or cracker dust, and the meat drippings will fry it nicely. Have lots of the drippings, and let it fry brown. Have at least two tablespoonfuls when the meat is lifted out. Into this stir a tablespoonful, heaping, of sifted flour. Set on the back of the stove and stir and stir, till all the nice crusty brown of the egg and crumbs is stirred in. Dash over the pepper and salt necessary for a scant pint of milk. Pour the milk in cold, and set right over the fire, and stir briskly until cooked. Serve in a hot bowl. You can fry the scraps and trimmings off the porter house or sirloin in the same manner, and make the gravy, and the dog will enjoy the scraps just as well. Coal oil is just as nice for cleaning stain- ed flvors as turpentine and the odor is no worse, and seems to go quicker. When table cloths begin to go to pieces, you can make very nice every day napkins of them by cutting in neat squares and hemming. If too coarse for that, make tea towels of them. It is very péor economy to take good old linen for rags. A lettuce sandwich is very nice eating for a picnic. Boil eggs till they are crum- bly, end chop them fine and season with salt and pepper. Get nice tender lettuce and pick it to finest shreds with the fin- gers. It ruins lettuce to chop it with steel. Mix egg and lettuce evenly, spread daintily on thin slices of buttered bread, and drop over it some nice salad dressing, then cover with another thin slice of buttered bread. Always make sandwiches very thin. A woman with a fine head of hair says she does nothing to it but wash it when it seems to need it, and she can tell that by the soil it leaves on the white comb she uses. She washes it with soap and water and nothing else. She takes an old tin can end into it puts a cake of soap, and pours over it half a pint of hot water. This she places on the back of the stove for a few hours, stirring it occasionally as she passes. It is soon reduced to the ecnsistency of jelly. Then it is ready. She takes up a lot on her fingers, and rubs it right on the scalp, and does this till her head is in a fime lather. She rubs and manipulates her hair and scalp till it be- gins to smart a little and then she be- se the soap out in warm, not hot, . She keeps getting clean water till it is not a bit discolored by her hair. Then she takes tcwels and rubs her head and strips her hair through them, till most of the water seems to be out, then she sits down and shakes her hair out to dry. She never touches a brush or comb to her hair till it is perfectly dry, just shakes, and catches ft up in her fingers and lets it run through them. Her hair never knots or snarls. ——___. The Coming Man, From the Somerville Journal. A pair of very chubby legs, Iheased in acarlet howe! ee of little stubby boots, Vith rather doubtful toes; A little kilt, a little coat— Cut a er His rebance, will read the stem, ‘And’ search thelr unkno 33 and soul ‘Will open to their gaze; Perchance their keen and flashing glance Will be a nation's light— ‘Those eyes that now are wistful bent ‘On some “big fellow’s” kite. Those hands—those little, busy hands— So sticky, small and brown; ha whose only mission seems Within thelr tiny clasp, ‘hough now ‘tis but a taffy stick In sturdy hold they grasp’ Ab, blessings on those little hands ‘Whose work is yet undone; And blessings on those little feet ‘Whose race is yet unrun! And blessings onthe little brain ‘That, has not learned to plan: Whate’er the future God bless the ** +] Hew She Remembered. From the New York Press. “No,” said Mrs. Newwife to the new neighbor, “we took a house in the country, but my husband didn’t like it, so we came back to tow: “Why didn’t he like it? asked the caller. “I think he thought it was unhealthy. As #con as we moved in my husband bought a lot of costly chickens (you know he is a great hand for fowls), but they all died the second day we had them. In March? No; it was in April. I remember, because I had just bought a lot of Easter egg dyes to leed them so we could have some nice col- ored eggs.” IN THE CHURCHES ‘The fiftieth anniversary of the Missouri Lutheran synod of the United States, the largest Lutheran body in the country, Is to be celebrated all over the country to- morrow. The three churches of the de- nomination in this city, St. John's, Christ and Trinity, are to unite in a union service at the latter church, corner of 4th and E streets, tomorrow afternoon at 3 o'clock. The special features of the exercises will be two addresses, one in German by Rev. Justus Rupprecht, temporary pastor of the church, and the other by Rev. C. C. Mor- hart of Christ Church, in English, besides vocal music by Miss Kuhnel and a quartet from Christ Church. The organization of St. Paul's Union several months ago by Father Mackin, pastor of St. Paul's Catholic Church, and its subsequent increase in membership, has necessitated a number of improve- ments to St. Paul's Hall, adjoining the church, which is used by the union. Officers of the Sunday school of the Westminster Presbyterian Church, Rev. B. F. Bittinger, D. D., pastor, have been elect- ed, as follows: Superintendent, William C. Henry; assistant superintendent, Henry E. Bittinger; treasurer, Miss Sarah Hatch; superintendent of the primary department, Mrs. I. M. Bittinger; secretary, John Ste- phenson; librarian, Guy Harris White, and organist, Miss Annie M. Wilson. Congress Heights Chapel, a mission of Emmanuel Protestant Episcopal Church, | has been presented with an organ by the Missionary Society of St. John’s P. E. Church. The congregation of Trinity Methodist Episcopal Church are preparing to abandon their old edifice on 4th street southeast for the new house of worship at the inter- section of Pennsylvania avenue and 5th street southeast. The farewell service of the Sabbath school is to be held in the old lecture room tomorrow, and that of the church the Sunday following, May 16. The church is to be formally dedicated Sunday, May 23, and an elaborate program is being prepared for the occasion. Under the auspices of the Young People’s Society of Christian Endeavor, a musical and literary entertainment was given Wednesday evening at Zion's Lutheran Chureh. At the annual spring meeting of the east- ern conference of the Maryland synod Lutherans, held this week at Baltimore, the following officers were elected: Presi- dent, I. C. Burke of Baltimore; secretary, Rev. Albert Homrighaus of Washington, D. C., and treasurer, Mr. E. F. Stockert, a Baltimore layman. The conference decided to hold the fall session at the Church of Our Redeemer, this city. Rey. William Tayloe Snyder, rector of the Church of the Incarnation, who frac- tured a limb several months ago, is now able to be about, and has officiated recent- ly at services at his church. The colored Baptist ministers of Wash- ington went over to Alexandria one even- ing recently and held memorial exercises at Shiloh Baptist Church in memory of the late Revs. Fields Cook and Samuel Madden, both of whom were members cf the Washington Baptist Preachers’ Asso- ciation. The corner stone of St. Anthony of Padua Catholic Church, Emmitsburg, Md., was laid last Sunday afternoon by Rev. Father O'Brien, ‘pastor of St. Peter's Church of this city. Rev. Thomas J. Packard of New River, Anne Arundel county, Md., has received and accepted a call to Christ Protestant Episco- pal Church, Rockville. Rev. Corydon Millard, m'ssionary-at-large of the North Ilinois Methodist Protestant conference, has been in the city for several days. A VISITING GOWN. OF CHANTILLY LACE A Visiting Gown Suitable for Sum- mer Wear. decided that reform, not total abstention, shall ensue. Suggestive of Simplicity. . The striking feeture in dress is the suc- cessful effort made to produce, in spite of overcrowding ornaments, a general effect suggestive of simplicity. It is the triumph of art in this specialty. The word simplici- ty is of course erroneous, but there is no better word to express the even tonality, as it were, of every detail in the costume of today for any occasion. We cannot really call simple the exquisite fabrics, richly wrought of needlework, but to put the feeling before the reader in a clear way, she must fancy a crowd of well- dressed girls, all lovely, but in a confused mass, and that one alone out of this crowd FROM A FAMOUS BRUSSELS DESIGNER ee! Striking Popularity of Pleatings and Kilts. produces an impression caused by the har-| Next Tucsday evening, at the Central monious blending of cut, color, figure, com- | Union Mission building, there is to be a plexion and refined manner. Now this is | conference of ministers and representatives what has ever charmed in dress, and for | of = Y. M. soe and rected reer = a 23 7 = ; | Which some of the belles written of in the | regard to an enlargement of Christian Kk FASHION’S LATE FADS | eighteenth century were reputed. This is | during the summer months by co-operation age indeed the secret which the French woman | 2nd united efforts. The bishop-elect of Wilmington, Del., Right Rev. Thomas Monaghan, is to be con- secrated tomorrow by Cardinal Gibbons. A number of the local Catholic clergy will attend the ceremony. The archdeacon of the Episcopal convo- cation of Washington, Rev. Thomas 8. childs, D.D., is to sever his connection with Christ Church, East Washington, and is to go to St. Margaret's Church for a while. The rector of the latter church, Rev. Rich- ard Lewis Howell, has not been in the best of health this spring, and as the work at St. Margaret's is growing, feels that he needs somebody to assist him. The Ladies’ Mite Society of Metropolitan Presbyterian Church is arranging to pur- chase an entire new set of pulpit furniture for the church. The Easter offering, somewhat swelled by subscriptions since Eester, of the Pro- Cathedra! Church of St. Mark, is one of the largest in its history, having reached the total of $1,550. It is to be applied to the church debts. The new pastor of Trinity German Luth- eran Church, Rev. Mr. Schroeder of Port Richmond, Staten Island, is to be fermally irstalled in his new charge Sunday, May 23, by Rev. A. Senne of Buffalo, N. Y. Rey. Peter C. Dilts, who was employed lest year at Congress Heights and on Oxon Hill circuit by Presiding Elder Wilson, has just finished ‘his course of study at How- ard University and left for Kansas, to commence his labors in the Methodist min- istry in that state. Rev. Thomas Gallaudet, brother of Pres- ident Gallaudet of Gallaudet College, con- ducted a service and delivered a sermon to deaf mutes at Ascension Church Thursday evening. A mass meeting of the Brotherhood of St. Andrew is to be held during the latter part of this month for chapters belonging to the diocese of Washington, at which one of the principal topics under discussion will be the coming first international convention of the order, which is to be held in October at Buffalo, so that a large delegation will rep- resent Washington. Several of the most prominent members of the English clergy and laity have signified their intention of crossing the water to be present. The kindergarten connected with Methodist Deaconess Home is to hold its annual closing exercises next Monday even- ing at Metropolitan M. E. Church., A forty hours’ devotion began in St. Paul's Church last Sunday and closed Tue: day of this week. It was largely attend and was conducted by Rev. Father Mackin, assisted by Revs. Foley and Hannan. Dur. ing this month May devotions are held in all the Catholic churches. The devotions this week at St. Aloysius’ Church were in charge of Rev. M. C. Dolan, S. J. The committee of ministers and laymen having charge of the matter of securing: eighteen hundred dollars with which to pay off the overdue interest on the Kastern Presbyterian Church made up the ‘ast of the sum needed last Saturday, and imme- Clately paid off the debt. The quarterly mass meeting of the young People of the Baptist churches was held last night at the Fifth Baptist Church. Rev. James H. Lee, pastor of the colored Baptist Church at the corne- of 5th and Q streets northwest, is to celebrate the anni- ears; of his pasterate next Monday even- ing. ‘The annual convention of the Atlantic coast division of the Lutheran synod of Missouri is to be held in Baltimore at Em- manuel Church, Rev. T. Stiemke, pastor, beginning next Wednesday, and continue in session until the 19th of May. The Washington churches of the synod will be represented by three ministerial delegates and by three lay delegates, the latter not being selected as yet, though the others are as follows: St. John’s Church, the pastor, Rev. Marcus Hamm; Christ Church, the pastor, Rev. C. C. Morhart, and Trinity Church, the temporary pastor, Rey. Justus Rupprecht. Sunday, May 16, there is to be a celebra- tion at Ford's Opera House, Baltimore, in honor of the fiftieth anniversary of the founding of the synod. A few days ago a class from the Junior Epworth League of Grace M. E. ‘Church ‘was graduated into the senior league. The exercisés consisted of an address by the Pastor of the church, Rev. G. V. Leech, D.D., after which the president of the senior league, Mr. 8. E. Terry, formally received them into membership. The Baptist Ministers’ Association was addressed on Monday morning by Rev. F. 8. Dobbins of Philadelphia, who took as his topic “Hints on Hymn Singing.” A large of today possesses. Nor was it the belles of France alone that were immortalized by the brushes of the painters of the day. We need but recall the pictures by Rey- nolds, when Sarah, the Duchess of Mari- borough, presented her four daughters to society. They were “au comble” of their loveliness and they did know how to dress. Net, gauze, ribons, or whatnot—then as now—were contrived to convey grace. A New Fad. But to “return to our muttons,” as the French say. One of Fashion’s newest fads is the bias tucked gown, wherein the whole skirt and often the waist to match, is trimmed or covered with bias millinera’ folds. This style is particularly suitable for outdoor or promenade toilets, and is quite chic in its very stiffness. The ma- terial of one model is brilliant black al- paca. The close-fitting foundation skirt of black taffeta is completely covered with these bias folds of alpaca overlapping each other and stiffened by linen gauze in- terlining. The folds must be sewn on the foundation skirt with the greatest care for fear of stitching. The same fold trimming continues horizontally on the bodice, which cleses on the left side under a large revere of black moire adorned by two large hand- painted china buttons. A wide folded belt of red velvet gathers the fullness of the bodice at the waist and closes with a large buckle of painted china. The round red velvet collar has tabs of black moire and the sleeve, which is close fitting, has short epaulettes formed by three bias folds. A large wide brimmed black straw hat is worn with this costume and is trimmed with bows of black velvet, moire and chine ribbon and a large ‘hand-painted china buckle to match the one on the belt. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. BRUSSELS, April 24, 1897. We are pleased to note that our predic- tions in reference to'the use of laces have been realized. Whole costumes are now be- ing made up of Chantilly laces and are ua- equaled for their elegance, taste and rich- ness. We place today before the American pub- Ue a visiting gown composed of silver em- broidered Chantilly lace over turquoise blue and white changeable taffeta. The narrow close-fitting silk foundation skirt is covered entirely by four deep full flounces of black lace over taffeta, each flounce being edged with a narrow accordion pleating of black chiffon. The pattern on the lace is outlined with silver thread and small silver spangles. The bodice consists of a short, square bo- lero at the back, which lengthens in front into two tabs opening over a high black satin girdle laced in front. The bolero is edged with a pleating of embroidered lav- ender chiffon, of which there is also a full ruche around the neck. A pleating of the silver spangled lace also surrounds the neck above the lavender chiffon and forms a jabot down the front of the bolero. The close-fitting lace-covered silk sleeve has epaulettes of four silver-spangled lace flounces. Sunray Skirts. Pleatings and kilts vie in public favor with lace dresses. A foundation skirt of silver gray taffeta neigeuse (a novelty hav- ing a white sheen, giving a semblance of snow, therefore called ‘neigeuse,” or “snowy") has a pleated or sunray skirt, striped with rows of ribbon graduating in width and of three shades of rose color, gray and silver. These pleated skirts are called “soleil,” or “sunray,” dresses, be- cause they are cut in a form resembling a bell, all the pleats being closely pressed at the waist and then flowing out like rays, widening as they lengthen down to the ground. The rows of ribbon trimming con- tinue on the pleated loose blouse waist, which closes on side with two large enameled silver buttons and a jabot of real lace. A silver gray velvet waistband with large strass buckle confines the blouse at the waist line. The folded collar is also of gray velvet. The sleeves of gray v vet and embroidered with silver thread are quite close fitting except for a slight puff at the shoulder, where they are ad- ditionally trimmed by dalmatic epau- lettes. The latter are so named on account of their resemblance to the ecclesiastical vestment of that name, worn by deacons and subdeacons or by a celebrant at the altar. Dressmakers have made it a combi- naticn of collar and epaulettes and its merit appears to He in the fact that it dces rot conceal the flexible motion of the arm between neck and shoulders. No- body had thought of this motion before dalmatics came in, and as to shoulders, they have been nowhere since a prodigious bulge at the top of them positively anni- hilated every line admired in statuary. The moderate puff now again adapted to the upper part of the closely fitting sleeves tends to prove ‘that when fashion reaches the climax of ‘ridieule, it has either to leave the fieldentirely or to undergo re- form, and considering all the pretty things that are introduced for the top of a sum- mer or spring sleeyg it has been wisely a iw (CHirscu & CIr., Brussels.) Also of Amsterdam, Cologne, Dresden, and Hamburg. ————— A Substitute for Rubber. From Industries ana Tron, With reference to the new substitute for India rubber, to which we referred a fort- n'ght ago, we are now informed that the manufactory established for the manufac- iure of this product is in an advanced state of preparation, and is expected to be short- ly in full work. The machinery provides for an output of forty tons per week, and the works cover nearly three acres of ground, and are situated but a short dis- tance from London. “Oxilin,” the name registered for the new product, manifestly indicates an oxidized cil. There is in itself nothing particularly new about a product of this nature, but it is claimed by the in- ventor, Charles Grist, that up to the pres- ent time ro one but himself has been suc- cessful in completely oxidizing the oil, whether when in the form of a film or in a spray. Mr. Gwist has adopted a perfectly different course to that which has been heretofore pursued, making a large em- ployment of vegetable fibers. It is stated that “oxilin” will perfectly replace India rubber for a large variety of purposes, such as hydraulic packings, wire insertion and the like, being impervious to mineral oil, and standing a temperature of from 200 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit in its natural and vulcanized forms respectively. It can be sold at a considerable reduction on the price of India rubber. the Ts SN Bb Publisher (impstiently)—“‘Well, sir, what fs it?" Publisher drvtablyy "veer ms FE arn ny % bl “Yes.” — z fed Poet ‘nore timidly)}—“Mr. George Jobson?” . series of revival services at the Indepen- copia eee in tor oa Bo Prec ae = ent Methodist Church last cvening. (more timic 5 firm lessrs. Jobson Doodie’ urch Inited Brethren Publisher (angrily)—“Yes. What do you want?” pctv ph a pec ita = "Oh—I want to see Mr. Doodie!""—Phil May in Punch, 17 1% PERIAL HAIR RECENERATOR No matter what the AIR—streaky, BLE. be made beautiful, gh cation of ‘rage Mare, ealor or condition of yo SHED or GRAY ic ran vm ap natural by Imperial! Hair Regenerator. It is clean, colorless, lasting, does not con Baths atom of poisonous matter. pelther curling wor a. for the BEARD on account of its clean! durability. No. 1 No. 2—Dark “Brown. No. 3—Medium Brown. No. 7 0. 4—Chestnnt. 0. B— Light Che Imperial Chemical Mfg. Co., In Washington, sold PALAIS ROYAL. APPLICATIONS MADE MARLBOROT ST. NW Fifth ave., AR ATIONS that make people 10 to#20 years er book ity also operations for the correc projecting MML-shaped ears, noses and all Facial Deforn THE NBCKLESS PACE OPER AT! No. 1 removes wrinkles. . 2 removes “crow 10. 4 operation for . 5 reduces the bagginess of the chi 6 reduces nostril partition No. 7 removes th No. 8 removes ing eyelids, 9 straightens a crooked nose wall No. 10 produces a dimple in the cheek John New York, 127 W. 424 st.; Phila Boston, 11 Winter st.; ' Chia Address letters to 127° West my8,12,22426-60 = a = Sunday evening, with Prof. W. J. Stephens, musical director; Miss Ella Ford, organi: Mr. Browning, cornectist, and solos by Miss Cleveland, Mr. Aunand and Miss Bernice Speice. H, Woodbury Dermatological Lastitate, t wt pl as Prepared for Emerge From the Detroit Free Press. » For two days Grim has been getting his wheel in shape for the werm weather cam- paign. I'm getting pretty well along in years,” he said, in discussing the matter, ‘and was a little slow in accepting the bi- cycle as something to be encouraged, but now I come pretty,near being a crank. I'm fixing this machine up as a jeweler would a watch. I know where evcry tool is and what it's for. But there's some- thing else. See this little pocket here in- side my bicycle coat? See now this strong strap of cloth buckles over it, and notice the ring of chamois. That's for mon an emergency fund that is never to be dis turbed until I come face to face with the emergency. “Now, I'll explain. ambitious and made len. Last summer I grew a long run into the country. I timed myself wrong and started home a trifie late. I was scorching through the mein street of a little town out here when a big fellow rushed to the middle of the road, spread his threw his arms out, and yelled * “I halted and was promptly informed that I owed $2 for riding without a lamp. I tried to explain, but the big const not there for argument. Then I ground that he couldn't fine me and that I at least had a right to a tr “‘You're tried now,’ he roared, ‘an’ found guilty. Didn't I ketch you at it? Is there any lantern hitched to that ole veloc ipede of yours? You-settle or go inter th calerboose. You can't come ‘round here tellin’ me nuthin’ "bout the ordinances of this here corp'ration “My chief trouble was that I had no money. I had left home with very little, and there are roadhouses on_ tha’ After a long plea 1 got the officer my bicycle for security tll I could c to Detroit for money. Then I broke for the station, where there was a train saow due.” route. to a ——_+e-+ - - Glad She Was Odd. ym the Chicago Post. You're an odd girl,” he said. Am I, really?” she asked. indeed you are.” “Oh, I'm so glad,” she said, delighted. don’t see why it should please ” he remarked in a you so bewildered I've just been studying a lot of that prove that every tenth girl becomes an old maid,” she ined, still fail to understand,” he returned. “I can't be an even number if I'm odd, can I?” she demanded; “and ten is ar nember, isn’t it? It is so seldom that a woman is found who reasons clearly and concisely th: felt that he ought not to miss the of getting this one. And he didn’t. — 20-— Not Palatable. From the Argorant. Two Tarks were at he hance a French bar Toward the conclusion of the f Frenchman selected a tovthpick from th tray near him, and politely passed the tray on to his neighbor, who, however. en-ptorily declined the offer. “No, thank you! I have already of the accursed things, and per- exclaiming: aten two I want no The after-dinner Task of dish washing loses its terrors, and all household cleaning is ac- complished quickly and easily by the use of