Evening Star Newspaper, December 19, 1896, Page 24

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 19, 196-98 PAGES. WITH THESE SUITABLE GOWNS| The Three Classes Which the Travel- ing Wealthy Woman Takes. — ‘A TOILETS SOME STYLES OF Paris Costumes for Street, Indoor and Evening Wear. a HIGH DRESS COLLARS Ss Correspondence of The Evening Star. GIBRALTAR, December 7, 1896. A FASHION ABLE millionatress, whom ennui and social re- { verses have driven vut_ef America to | ‘eek a new realm | here she may yet ueea it over her ecrs, is now travel- ing along the south- ern shores of Europe. She carnes seven trunks, and no one knows how much raiment she has left | in storage in London and in Paris. For go | where she will, from the Fiji Islands to the north pole. the woman of leisure takes along three kinds of clothes, which may be classified as gowns to wear indoors, those to wear outdoors and those to wear even- | ings. Just imagine her consternation when she 1s expected to appear in conrt costume be- fore the Fiji chief and discovers at the last moment that the trunk containing her evening dresses will not come until the next steamer! Our millionairess is prepare] for every emergency. She is accustomed to them and knows how to meet them. There is one trunk of which she never loses sight in alf her wanderings. She has it brought to her state room on board ship. and keeps an eye out for it at stations where baggage | Is transferred. In this she carries at least one gown of each of the three classes, and | from neck to shoulders, | may be the same as the skirt—and an af- THREE GOWNS WOMAN TRAVELS AROUND THE is ready on the shortest notice to receive or be received by anybody at any sort of func- tion—on a pinch! But far be it from this chronicier to imply that she could exist with only one elementary representative of each class! Woman is nothing if not evolutionary in matters of dress, and once given a genus. she immediately sets to work developing species and families and classes until it {5 almost as diificult to trace it back to the original as it is for scientists to discover the missing link. Take the indoor costume for example Nothing could be more ambiguous to th: highly developed modiste than this term. “Do you want your robe for receptions or for your boudoir? To receive ladies o gentlemen? For morning, noon or night? are a few of the questions which she ask in the same tone that the salesgirl assume when you ask “to see her ribbons” and sh responds with a look of resignation, “wha color?” and “how wide?” ‘Among the dresses for indoor wear the: are gowns which man outside the famil never sees. They are the soft, flowin robes that Bernhardt and Nethersole wea in their-favorite plays, but which the wo man in real life of the present period limi to the confines of her boudoir—the more the pity, since nothing so nearly approach« the artistic simplicity of the Grecian mai Tea Gowns. If the flowing robes are made of brocaded silk of a sufficiently heavy texture to stand out away from the figure, they are admis- sible as receiving gowns or tea gowns for a married lady. Even military personages are received by the ladies of the garrison In such robes as these. A tea gown of lav- ender silk with cascades of white lace down the front was a great contrast to the 1e4 coats and brass buttons of the British sol- diers at the garrison, but it gave them a glimpse of home life which must have set their hearts yearning for their sisters and their cousins and their aunts, and {t was very evident that this dark-haired hostess of forty was a greater favorite with the lonely, homeless soldier than the colonel’s pretty daughter of eighteen summers. A pretty 5 o'clock tea gown for a mar- ried hostess is a princess robe of glace silk. The gown fits the figure at the back and | sides, but is draped loosely and gracefully across the front, leaving only a suggested outline of the figure. and fastens at the left side with a large chou of wide ribbon from which hangs a cascade of guipure lace. Epawlets of the same guipure are gathered over the puffs of the sleeves. The yoke and collar are formed of velvet ribbon radiating and the sleeves have a finish of lace at the wrist. All tea gowns should be stiffened up the back of the skirt, as it is quite as necessary that they hang properly as any street or ball gown. Indoor gowns for young ladies are simple dresses in which the material of the waist ternoon dress usually is—or it may be a light silk or mousseline with a dark skirt, a eostume which is always appropriate for WORLD. the reception of gentlemen in the evening. To avoid the appearance of elaborateness | some young ladies prefer a dark waist with light ribbons to brighten it up. The colonel’s daughter at the garrison wore ac- cordeon-pleated flounces of stiff mull on the shoulders of her dark blue brocade waist. There were three flounces over cach shoulder, with dark blue ribbons running across the front and back of the bodice, forming a yoke. Frenchy Evening Dress. The lady of the seven trunks came out in a Frenchy evening dress the other night. It came direct from Paris, and had never een the Inside of any of the trunks. The kirt was accordeon-pleated surah, which ier maid informed me was the very newest hing. The bodice was a combination of ac- ordeon pleating and fancy velvet. There vas a short blouse front of the velvet held n place by a wide girdle of the same. The ‘fect of an Eton jacket was obtained by a raping of the pleating from two scroll-like aps of velvet, each caught with a fancy vutton. She wore a knot of satin ribbon in ner hair, as everybody does of evenings, .owadays. ‘A street dress from Paris which is too neavy for this climate will be very ser- viceable when the traveler takes a little run north to see Bernhardt in some of her new roles at her own theater. It is a tailor- made suit of dove gray, but it isn’t a bit severe. Every loose edge has a double row of stitching. There is a box pleat of the gray cloth running from waist to the bot- tom of the skirt, on the right side, and at the, bottom two three-cornered pieces of heliotrope velvet are set in. The jacket turns back at the edges and is trimmed with two large buttons on each side. The collar stands high around the neck, and the whole jacket is open in front over a lace stock and jabot, and a wide, heliotrope vel- vet girdle. The hat is made of heliotrope velvet, having a gray velvet crown banded with hellotrope, and is trimmed with os- trich piumes, which are cheaper in this vi- cinity than they were where they were pur- chased. . The stene marten muff has flounces Of lace like those in the jabot. Just as long as the season will permit it fashionable folks are going without wraps —which, of course, 1s all the year round down here. But since capes cannot look chic without a big sleeve underneath to support them, and since it is so hard to become reconciled to the daily act of strug- gling into a jacket, with sleeves that have also grown smaller, woman pads herself heroically with chamots waists and shivers along without a wrap as late in winter as Jack Frost will allow. One sees high ecollars—high enough for coat collars—on ordinary dresses, even those which are worn indoors. This fashion helps to dispense with the fur collarette or boa, and is such a good protection that the wearer ig rarely troubled with cold | draughts at her back. But what need to talk of cold on the bosom of this balmy sea that smiles placidly as if old Neptune had never been known to ruffle her temper and set her to rolling and frothing in gi- gantic wrath? ELLEN OSBORN. HOUSEHOLD HINTS An excellent restorer for ollcloth that 1s losing its first freshness is made of half an ounce of beeswax dissolved in a saucer of turpentine. Rub this over the surface of the ofleloth with a small soft cloth, and then polish off with a piece of flannel. The hoarseness that comes from cheering or a long siege of talking, if unconnected with a cold, can generally be greatly re- Gtced, If not entirely removed, by swallow- ing a raw egg. Glycerine and alcohol in equal parts thickened with rock candy will also answer the same good purpose. Don’t expect your chijdren to grow up models of politeness if tWey are not taught to be polite in the home circle. If you have not taught your little son to rise and bring forward the easy chair for you or for any of his elders when they enter the room in which he ts sitting, you certainly cannot hope that he will be so thoughtful-as to offer his seat in a crowded street car to an eljeriy person. If he Is permitted to wear his hat in the house when at home, you should not be so shocked when he forgets to remove it in the house of your friend. If you are so injudictous in your methods of training at home as to permit your children to “talk back” to you when you reprimand them, do not wonder when some “friend” ecmes to you with a tale of their sauciness ard {ll-breeding when cut from under your eves An eminent physician says that the] hearty meal of the day should be break- fast. That the system should crave more food at that meal than at any other, and that the perfectly healthy creature will eat more breakfast than at any other meal of the day. And he 4s of the further opinion that those who do not eat heartily until the late dinner hour are on the highway to ill- health and early “old age.” An old paint brush—one of the large size— makes an excellent blacking brush. Clean it by immersing it in a dish of coal oil, which will losen the paint, and a second beth will cleanse it entirely. A delicicus dish for breakfast or lunch is Prepared as follows: Two cupfuls of cold Woiled potatoes cut into small dice, half cupful of finely grated cheese, half a cup- ful of cream or milk (if milk use a litt butter) and pepper and salt to taste. But- ter a pudding dish and fill with layers of cheese and potatoes and season as you go. Over the top put a thin covering of pound- ed crackers, and then pour the cream over the top of all. Bake half an hour, letting the top brown, and serve in the baking dish. Many a woman would save herself the beck and sideache if she would use a higher kitchen table and a higher ironing board. One should never stoop at one’s work if it carn be avoided, and ordinarily it can. A kitchen table of the right height will per- mit you to stand erect when kneading bread, washing dishes, or compounding recipes. The same with the ironing board. This advice followed will save many round shoulders and tired backs even after a long day in the kitchen. A mixture designed to “fix” crayon and charcoal drawings is made of equal parts of shellac and alcohol. Spray with an artist's atomizer. The very best way to clean black silk, or to renew black ribbons, is to make a strong borax water. Then lay the silk or ribbon on a perfectly clean emooth board and with a soft cloth rub thoroughly with the borax. Rinse in the same manner with smaller quantity of borax. Dry a piece at a time on the table or board, then roll round a broom- stick. Ironing ruins silk. The care of one’s shoes in a climate such as this is a momentous task. A lady is known by the manner in which she is shod, and It Is absolutely impossible to keep shoes in shape till worn enough to cast aside un- less great care is exercised. A bottle of vaseline, two quarts of oats, lots of new shoe buttons or laces and a bottle of good polish, to be frequently used, are the prime requisites for taking care of the foot cov- ering. Of course the sandals, gums and “spats” belong to the shoe proper. If the shoes are a bit damp the proper thing to do on entering the house is to take them eff at once. Rub off all the dust or mud and apply a little vaseline, well rubbed-in be- fore the fire. Then set the shoes aside, fill with oats, well shaken down, after the shoe is buttoned or laced up. When you are ready to put them on twelve hours later you will find that the oats have absorbed every bit of dampness, and left the shoe as soft as when new. Rub with a bit of flan- nel, and the original shine will return to the leather. When the blacking comes to be necessary, apply it only two or three times a week, relying mainly on the vase- Iine rubbed in at night, and polished down in the morning. Never wear a shoe with a button gone, or with shabby laces, and patronize your shoemaker at once you dis- cover a rundown heel, or a crack in the side. The oats may be kept in a pastc- board box, but should be well dried out by exposure to the air whenever they have He (with suspicious tremulousness)- She (encouragingly)—“Yes, but the engagements are contracted on earth.”—Life. “They say that marriages are made in heaven.” _ been used. They can then be used an in- definite length of time. To meke a box stool, so fashionable now, get a small box, lid and all, at your grocers for a dime. Fasten the ld on with strong leather hinges, that may be cut from old shoes. Get a roll of the best cotton batting, at 12% cents, and two or three yards of Fretty cretonne at 15 cents. With some tacks, a hammer and a modicum of brains sourced) make for about 75 cents a box stool. Don’t let heartache go with your Christ- mas presents. If you are able to give free- ly, do so; but if the purse Is lean and sacri- fice of comforts must be made to gratify your desire to make handsome presents, be sure that no blessing goes with a present made that way. A little thing that means loving remembrance is far more valuable to one who wiil prize your gift than one which she knows is far beyond your means to give. —— MEDICAL INSPECTION OF SCHOOLS. What ts Proposed by the New York City Health Authorities. From th: Medical Record. The health department of New York, be- ing very properly convinced that the great- est source of transmission of infectious and eentagious disease among children is through contact with each other in school, Propceses to take radical measures for the mitigation if not suppression of this ob- vious darger. Appropriations are asked for paying a corps of physicians, at a low rate, of course, whose duty it shall be to inspect the schocls regularly and inform them- selves directly and indirectly on ali points connected with possible disease dissem!- nation. How competent men can be ub- tained dt $30 per month can best be de- termined by officials who are notoriously indifferent to the real value of such ser ices. Such, it strikes us, is a way of prov- ing how not to do a good thing. This, how- ever, is merely a remark in passing and especially in connection with a reasonably fat sslary offered to a chief inspector, whose duties could be performed by the sanitary inspector or his ambitious and not overworked assistant. Still, the proposed school inspection is a most excellent thing and it is to be sin- cerely hoped that it can be properly car- ried out. Not only should the public schools be under such a jurisdiction of the health board, but every parochial and private in- stituticn as well. We would extend the furctions of such inspection to include that of infectious disease of every sort, even those not classified by the health au- thorities as such, for instance, the numer- ous skin affections so prevalent in the schools, and other maladi: propagated in- directly through water closet seats, drink- ing cups, books, slates and the iike. —— Poor Brooks. From Herlem Life. “You say Brooks hasn't been able to! put one foot before the other since he was caught in that wreck. Were his legs cut off?” “They weren't injured at all.” “Then it's strange he can’t use them.” “Not a vit of it. His-head was cut off.” SRS A Good Business, From Tid-Bits. Muggins—‘Is your son in business?” Juggins—“He's a contractor.” Muggins—“What line?” Juggins—“‘Debts.” see Advantage. From the Chicago Record. She—My face freezes in this cold.” He—“Mine used t She—“What did you do for it?” He—“Grew whiskers.’ ———-—s00 Any Old Thing. From the Minneapolis Journal, “John,” said his father ta the heir, aged five, “do you want your grandmother to put you te bed?’ “Any old thing will do,” replied the little man. CHATABOUT FASHIONS |CORRECT IN CARDS What Women Wear When They Fol- low the Latest Modes. NEW MATERIALS FOR EVENING Elaborate Silk Skirts and Stylish Plaid Velvet Jackets. pies a ee JEWELS AS ORNAMENTS Written for The Evening Star. Nes, Is MORE natural in July or August than to en- thuse over a group of attractive girls, all dressed either in a dainty, fluffy same- ness of design, or in a saucy smartness that has given rise to the term “summer girl,” a creature who is sure to possess one or the other of the above mentioned at- tributes. But when the scene shifts, and when, in- stead of basking in midsummer sunshine, we find ourselves under the glare of electric lights listening to the play and noting the gcrgeously attired maids and matrons all about us, it is small wonder that, for the: time being, we forget our summer's love and turn our eyes in raptureus admiration upon the gay and brilliant daughter of Hiems. The wemen in large street hats remove them almost as universally as do the men. I saw orly one obstruction of this kind at a New York theater the other night. It was made of purple velvet to match the broad- cloth gcwn of its vain and thoughtless wearer. It had a soft Tam O'Shanter crown of corn colored velvet and a_ beautitul brarch of yellow spreys flaunting them- selves back, almost in the very faces of the unforturates who sat behind. Bunches of violets filled in the back of the hat where the brim was turned up, and a large bunch nestled underneath the osprey plumes on top. One of the most striking features of this intermittent procession of loveliness was the large number of all silk dresses of va- rious tints. A gray silk brocade which was very light and delicate was made with a sort of simulated jacket bordered with gold and spangled passementerie. There was a high fluff! of acco deon pleated mou: selire at the back o1 tue collar. The sleeves fitted the arm like a glove up te the pe- ginning of the small puff. A gray bonnet trimmed with white lace and aigrettes and purple violets completed the costume. A dress of dark Dresden silk in which green and rose predominated was very simply made, but had a wide collar of duchess lace that gave the whole a very rich effect. The hat worn with it had a pink velvet Tam O'Shanter crown, a brim of white lace, and-black feathers. A theater waist. in the box was made of a pale green striped silk with a velvet yoke of a darker green which ended in small tabs over the shoulders. The sleeves were very tight, apd.pad puffs at the top that were cavght up In scallops. ‘The col- lar was white with a quilling of lace. Remarkible Collarette. A tall girl who safled down the aisle to a front seat wore 4 most remarkable cain- chilla collarette. At the lower edge it had the appearance of being turned back to adit of immense choux of green’ satin ribbon set on at th shoulders and the mid- dle of the back. | "+ chinchilla collar stood very High arouna hey neck, almost con- cealir g her back hair gnd just coming stort of the pair of lace véefled pink velvet loops that with a white atgrette constituted her bornet. What she were. below the colfar- ‘ette nobody saw,,, so, absorbing wus the vision above it.’ A very striking gown had tight fitting black sleeves In a waist of light brocade. The plaiuness of the sleeve was only re- lieved by two square tabs of lace at the top. The colors which seemed most popular were pink, gray and purple. Pink velvet 4s the most fashionable material one can buy for an evening Lonnet, and when com- bined with an aigrette and a little white lace or net it is very pretty and attractive. The ingenious girl.can make ker own. One of the very prettiest combinations in milli- nery is pink velvet veiled with cream net or lace. A Paris hat had a velvet loop faced with duchess lace. The newest materials for evening dresses are striped grenadine and embroidered crepe and mousseline All are made over silk to match or in contrasting shades. Spangled passamenterles und lace are the trimmings. Low-necked’ evening dresses with long, tight sleeves are worn on the stage in plays of a modern period. Notes of Fashions. Silk skirts grow more and more elab- orate. The newest ones have a succession of mousseline flounces edged gwith lace, and are, of course, accompanied by corsets to match. A dark green Dresden skirt with a rose figure has six alternating flounces of plain rose silk and of the material of the skirt. * Another skirt with white ground has white flounces bordered with narrow black velvet and narrow lace. Suk eiderdown is the newest material for winter skirts. It is trimmed as elab- orately as the silk ones. Bengaline alse figures in fancy petticoais. Corsets are also taking on new glories. ‘The short waisted corset with low bust ad- mits of a fancy trimming around the top which very much resembles a fancy corset cover. One that is ornamented with a ruche of pink chiffon hus shoulder straps like an ordinary waist. The most fashionable jewel is the sap- phire set with diamonds. Next comes the amethyst. Pearl necklaces ure worn out- side the collars of tailor-made dresses, and those who haven’t real pearls make no scruple of wearing the imitation. Plaid velvet jackets are fashionable for street wear. The plaid costs two dollars per yard and four and a half yards make a waist. ———_+-+ A Definition of Christmas. From Life. 2 Sunday School Teacher—“Johnny, what does Christmas mean?” Johnny—My pa says Christmas means swapping a lot o’ things you can't afford for a lut o’ things you don’t want.” ——“se+ How It Worked. From the Chicago Récord. “That woman getting her purse snatched out of her hand saved money for me.” “How was that?” ., “My wife went shopping and put her purse In her pocket; when she got down town she couldn’t find her pocket.” ——+ eo _____ What is the Proper Style for Visiting and Dinners. : Pasteboards for Men and Wemen— Wedding Invitations, A: ment Cards, &c. mee- Written for The Evening Star. Among the many little matters of eti- quette that may seem of trivial signifi- cance, but that women ought to be particu- larly concerned about, are those of calls, cards and notes, since nothiag shows more clearly whether the ways of the higher world are familiar or strange. The social laws for the paying of calls vary in different countries and cities, es- pecially in regard to the initiative visit— whether it shall be paid by the new arrival or the older resident. In many foreign cities it is a rigorous requirement that this civility should be shown by the newcomer, and the stranger who, through ignorance or obstinacy, waits to receive it, will remain unknown and unnoticed; it is the basis of invitations, without it they will not be forthcoming. When visiting a large city in the United States, while it is kind and friendly to be the first to call upon those we know inti- mately, one would never begin an acquaint- ance in that manner, and, in any case, it is more dignified to communicate the fact of being in town by sending a card. Then the responsibility of courtesy rests with the resident, who shou'd call at once. yle of Visiting Cards. Next to the politeness of the visit ranks the style of the visiting card. Great care should be shown in its selection. The best authority declares that it must not be ex- aggerated in size, or of fanciful tint, or have ornamental ink. It must be simple and elegant in every respect. For a woman, the most fashionable card at present is thin, square, moderately large, engraved in shaded Roman letters or in script. However, the Roman letters may prove a passing fancy, whereas script has the advantage of never being out of place whatever new whims may prevail for awhile. Initials should not be used upon a visit- ing card; the entire name must be writ- An elderly woman may have the only, but younger branches of th> are not entitled to this simplicity of form. Many women have adopted it in ignorance of its real significance, believing it to be a mark of individual taste; but it belongs solely to the senior member of the family—it is a mark of age. Aw Fashion Dictates. A girl's name should be on her mother's card during her first season; afterwards she should have a card of her own. This rule should not be—but often is—ignored. Folding cards in corners or in half, to signify different things, is quite out of vogue; the poor taste of leaving a crumpled card did not triumph long. Again, leaving cards in packs Is now regarded as an ab- surdity. One is considered sufficient for the whole household, and is politely ac- cepted as including every member of the family that 1s entitled to a visit. When there are guests, however, cards are left for them individually. Invitations for almost every form of en- tertainment, and the acceptance and regret —except for a dinner or luncheon—can be conveyed by this little medium—the visiting card. The formal reception, as well as the simple weekly at home, is invariabiy an- nounced in this way, though in the latter instance merely the day is engraved in the lower left-hand corner, while for a more ceremonious event the hour is mentioned, as, “4 till Men's cards are much smaller than wo- men’s, because no announcements are likely to be written upon them—nothing more than the house or club address. About Card Cases. Convention gives wider range in the choice of a card case than in the selection of its contents. It may be made of the most remarkable skin—water snake, lizard from green to gray, and monkey, which ts very popular. But the most desirable of all is elephant, a soft, velvety skin in a beautiful shade of deep yellowish brown. It is rare and expensive on account of the difficulty in tanning it properly, for it must be perfect in texture to be available for dainty use. Weddirg invitations and announcement cards are characterized by the same simple thovgh extreme refinement that marks the visiting card, which is a contrast to the wedding cards a la mode of fifty years ago. Thkcse were intended to be very splendid things, and true lovers’ knots, in a blaze of silver. Menu cards copy the quiet elegance of visiting cards. Those used for luncheons are headed by the monogram of the hos- tess, but 9s dinners are considered tae man’s entertainment, only the husband’s ™Moncgram or crest must appear on the dinner menu. The bill of fare is not written in French so often as it used to be. There are cer- tain French dishes for which the best available translation would he ungainly, therefore they keep their familiar French titles; but there are so many absurd mis- takes to be found in the average French- ified menu, that when it is possible and appetizing the English term is preferred. —_— Give the Tall M From the Savannah News. Two French physicians who have been making investigations have come forward with a general denunciation of tall men as nro good. They instance the giants of the world, who have been preverbially dull and men of gloomy disposition, and then they go on to say that the chances are against phenomenally tall men or even very tall men being bright. There should, however, be a careful @is- tinction drawn between tall men and gi- Ants. Giantism has been demonstrated to be a disease. The victims suffer from a malady which produces an eniargement of the joints, and this, more than any other growth of the bones, produces their ex- traordinary height. But men within cer- tain limits grow tall without suffering de- creased or absorbed mentality. It will not do to denounce the tall man when the world has seen so many examples of his being able to hold his own. The real reason why the tall men do not come to the front oftener is that they are modest as they are extended. Little men usuaily bustle about to such an extent that people belleve that they make up in width of views what they lack in stat- ure. In their absorbing arabition not to be overlooked they simply overdo the thing and make those whose command of the horizon is larger believe that they must get out of the way or the little fellows will run over them. The tall man is al- ways locking down on some one, but if any one believes that it is a comfortable situation he should get himself into it for ence and discover how unpleasant it ‘s to carry on conversation with the assistance of a telephone neck. It is this excruciat- ing experience that makes the tall man es a rule reticent. His reticence is mistaken for pride, pride is believed to be the evi- dence of doubt of his owa powers, doubt proves deficiency, deficiency in the tall mar can arise from only one thing—de- velopment of the hody at the expense of the brain and nervous system. Hence, the short man easily arrives at the conclusion that the tall man is a misfit and that he is the only perfect being going. Perfection be- ing accorded him,-he might easily conquer the world, but he always spoils nis chances by marrying a tall woman, who holds him back. This is the only reason why the men under five feet six have not already exterminated those over five feet nine. Polite Neighbors. From Harper's Bazar. “Our ‘new neighbors are very polite,” said Mrs. Perkasie to her husband when he came home at night. “Are they?” ““Yes; I sent to borrow their stepladder, and they told me they hadn't one, but if T’d wait awhile they'd send and buy one.” oo No Room for Deubt. a Chance. ‘From Life. Cumso—“‘Do you think that the Indians are really of civilization?” ‘Cawker—' can you doubt it, when you consider what a stiff-yame of foot ball they can put up?” nae | pots, with silver tops and handles, have MODERN SANTACLAUS! Christmas Suggestions for the Ben- efit of Masculine Givers. ARTICLES THAT WOMEN CAN MAKE Which Will Prove Acceptable to the Opposite Sex. AID TO THE PUZ —__ + Written for ‘The Evening Star. MAN ALWAYS buys his Christmas | presents or commis- sions his wife or sis- ter to buy them for him. He ts very apt 2 postpone the pur- “hase until December 24 to do It, too. Such a man may find | some comforting sug- gestions in the foi- lowing list of things that are to be seen on the Christmas | count«:, «f only the crowd of women would let him get near it. As he cannot expect to accomplish such a feat, however, he must depend upon hearsay to make his selection There is the same sea of manicure sets, vinaigrettes, stationery sets, and paper cut- ters that floods the market every Christmas, | and if one wants to give anything in that line there are many beautiful designs from which to select, and prices vary from cents up to as mony dollars. The women up- on whom a man bestows presents are usual- ly members of his family or very near rela- tives, and a gift for personal use is en- trely in order, even if it be distinctly re- lated to toilet use. Silver tooth powder boxes, some of tnem made with a sliding tube after a well known patent, are appro- priate presents for a sister. These can be bought for $2.75. Dental floss holders in the form of a round shuttle are an attractive noveity which may be pretty enough to Induce a young sister to take better care of her teeth. It woud seem that the designers of novel- tiles had gone in with the special purpose of improving the condition of young America’s molars. They have made all sorts of pretty tooth brushes with sflver handles and new cases for the wax used on dental floss. But the newest thing in this line is the mouth mirror, made like those which dentists use, but mounted in silver, with a silver handle. It sells for $1.25. Usefal to Women. Women have many uses for mucilage at thelr writing tables, but the ordinary receptacle is far from ornamental, and to obviate the difficulty cut glass mucilage been devised, and sell for $1 and up. The salve box for home-made cream from the pure lanolire is useful, and pretty enough to be kept on the dressing table. The cheapest ones are $1 and the prettiest are heart shaped. An embroidery spool holder which will hold any kind of a spool is this season's novelty. It has a sharp hook which can either be slipped over the belt or stuck through the cloth of one’s dress. From this hangs a rod upon which the spool will always be at hand and not on the floor, or on a table across the room. These are 40 cents. Needle cases, containing all kinds, from the fine, cambric variety to a bodkin, and a pair of scissors, are useful, and encourage the young in the right direction. The cheapest are 80 cents. Silver-mounted pocket calendars for 38 cents designate all holidays and holy days known to Christendom. A_ clever device in leather that shuts up to form a heart, opens out flat to disclose all the paraphernalia used in mending and sewing buttons on gloves, including the buttons. Articles in Leather. Leather is very fashionable in presents this year, and comes under various names. There is the “enameled leather,” which is hard enough to make stationery boxes, and the “burnt leather,” which is soft like dogskin. The latter is used for covers cn sets of clipping envelopes, and is pasted on cardboard like the linen novelties to make various boxes and cases. An ink- stand of burnt leather is going the rounds of the Christmas market, with th inscrip- tion, “One single drop of ink may make a million think.” White kid deccrated in Delft blue forms pretty glove cases, with stretcher and hook included, and is used in many of the cas>s where plush has done duty fo> so many years. Among very expensive presents there is the silver chain handkerchief pocket, which would be beautiful to wear with one’s evening gown where there is never a place to carry anything. This will cost $10, as will also one cf the newest empire fans, only seven inches long, with ivory or pearl sticks. Pearl-handled fans are marked $20. To be sure, one can buy pret- ty fans for $2 or less, but they are not the latest thing. A new jostal scale with a rounding dial> is selling for $12. Solid gold hooks set with jewels are made for the daughter of wealth to sew on her corset to keep her skirt band in place, and range from $27 up. The man who has plenty of money may buy one, set with diamonds, for his wife, if he pays $35. But such men as this can always get near the ccunters and can therefore go and see for themselves. Women's Handiwork. Here are suggestions for the making of five articles, one or more of which may serve to complete somebody's list of Christ- mas presents. All are easily made, and any of them may be used as a gift for a gentleman, which is a very desirable fea- ture. Of these the most attractive and the one most readily adopted to man’s use is the scarf pin roll. To make it, line with silk and fill with a cotton wadding a piece of sifk plush eight inches square, and bind the edge with a silk cord. Two inches from one side fasten to the liring a felt belt half an inch in width. | The belt is made of two thin pieces of felt. | At intervals of three-quarters of an inch | tack the belt down with two rows of stitch- es a quarter of an inch apart, making openings through which the scarf pins are | to be inserted. Ribbons are fastened at | one end to tie the roll. Close the roll like a book, roll it up and tie with the ribbon. It should then be four inches long and one inch in diameter. Pins should always be inserted in the belt with their heads toward the middle, where they are covered with the flap, so that when closed up they will not fall out. For greater safety, two flaps may be used, but it is not necessary. The same thing will serve to keep a lady's stick pins, if it is not needed as a gift for @ gentleman. A Hanging Pin Holder. A very attractive little hanging pin holder can be made of cardboard, decorated linen and a small piece of velvet. Cover with linen two pieces of cardboard four inches wide and four inches and three- quarters high. One of the pieces of linen should be em- broidered or painted with a little spray of flowers. Place the cards back to back and overcast them together all around the edge. Cut another piece of cardboard two inches in diameter, and with bran or fine sawdust make a small pin cushion covered with muslin, in the shape of a mushroom top. Cover the cushion with velvet and fasten it to the heart- caréboard pieces with me ‘shaped Stick pins aN around the edge and finish the cushion with bows and a ribbon to hang it up. The center cushion may be used for scarf pins. : For Loose Photographs, A useful present in the shape of a holder for looge photographs is -very acceptable for either a lady or gentleman. Cut a piece of stiff cardboard three inches and three-quarters wide by six inches and When consump- tion gets a grip on a man, it is hard to shake it off. All doctors used to believe that consumption was in- curable. Many doctors still believe it. Dr. R. V. Pierce of the Invalids’ Hotel and Surgical Institute of Buffalo, N. Y.. never believed this theory. The result was that over thirty years ago by dint of much concentrated study he discovered a remedy that will positively aud unfail- ingly cure 98 per cent. of all cases of con- sumption. Consumption is a germ disease, but the rms cannot exist in rich pure blood. erefore it has been call a “ blood disease.” People with weak Tangs are likely to produce weak lunged children, and weak lungs are an invitation to con- sumption germs. Therefore consumption has been justly called a hereditary trouble. No matter what it is called or why it comes, Dr. Pierce’s Golden Med- ical Discovery will cure it. The “Golden Medical Discovery” is a powerful germ- ii . It searches out disease germs and kills them wherever they be in the body —whatever kind of germs they may be. It stimulates digestive action and plies the blood with the properties it needs to make it pure and rich. It strengthens inherited weak lungs and makes them healthy and germ proof. It is sold by all good druggists. ti im rity. Seige coenteas 7 ae ong erthe — Constipation breeds impurity of the blood, and all manner of maladies. trifling and serious, are the result. Dr. Pierce's Pleasant Pellets cure con- Stipation. They never gri oney back if they @o. Don't some violent purgative as "just only to give the dealer bleger profi, one-half long; this is for the back or bot- tom. To this card sew a piece of unbleached muslin measuring twelve inches wide and twelve inches long, with the corners cut out. Cut a piece of silk plush and a piece of figured China silk the same shape and a trifle larger all around, turn the edges in and bind with a silk cord, Before the top and bottom are caught, however, fasten the ends of an elastic in & color to match the lining to the top and bottom of the cardboard; this band or strap will hold the photographs in place and pre- vent them from sliding about when handled. When closing the follo, turn short ends in first, then the long ores. For Playing Caras. A bag to hold a pack of cards is an a ceptable present for anybody who play To make one, cut a piece of cardboard the size of the end of a pack of cards, cover it with muslin and then with the material of which the bag is made. Of the many materials that can be used, @ good quality of silk plush or French cre- tonne will prove very durable and satisfac- tory. Line the goods with China silk, and of it form the bag two inches longer than the pack of cards, allowing room for a heading at least an inch wide, and provide the bag with draw sirings. . On a piece of thin, white celluloid paint the spots of some cards in the pack and sew it fast to one side of the bag. An odd rd may be tacked to the bag or the spots embroidered on @ piece of white linen. It would be advisable to cover a piece of pasteboard with the embroidered linen, as it lends a stiffness to it and gives more the appearance of a genuine card. To make a pretty blotting pad, cover a stiff piece of cardboard six or seven |) long and three inches wide with unbleached muslin, and then with white or unbleached linen, upon which a pretty design in vio- lets has been painted or embroidered. —_—————— OLDEST DOLL IN AMERICA. Brought From China by a Sea Cap- t 171 Years Ago. One of the quaintest and prettiest dolls to be seen anywhcre is preserved at Read- ing, Mass., and here is where dolls have the advantage of real hvman beings—though she is the cldest doll in America, she does not show her age at all, except in the mat- ter of dress, and is just as charming as when Capt. Gamaliel Hodges brought her home to his little daughter at . Mat when he returned from a voyage to Can- ton, China. She is now dressed in Louis XIV style, but history does not record just how this tiny counterfeit of woman was originally attired. What we do know is that when she came to America we had no direct trade with any distant ports of the world, for everybody here was a subject of King George, and no one had ever heard of the Star Spangled Banner. This little doll, therefore, has looked upon the most remarkable events of modern times, and it has not even aged her. When the war of the revolution was inaugurated she had already passed through the hands of several generations, and was really en- titled to all the respect due to a very vel erable person. She was much older than General Washington when he became the President of the United Colonies, etal Lafayette must have seer boy to her. The events of the found her approaching her hundredth year, and each succeeding decade has added tremendously to the weight of her expe- rience. During all this time the doll was passed on from ome person to another, evidently receiving the best cf treatment from each successive owner — unusual beauty and strange history saving her from the sad fate of so many of her sort. aan xe Suet acd Had a General Idea. From the Chicago Tribune. English Visitor (in Washington)—“It is customary, is it not, to refurnish the White Heuse entirely whenever a new President goes into it?” Native—“Yes.” English Visitor—“I have observed that there is always a great deal in your papers about his selection of a cabinet. he keeps