Evening Star Newspaper, January 25, 1896, Page 21

g THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JANUARY 2, 189¢--TWENTY-FOUR PAGES, : Se AND NOW AND THEN ONE SEES SOMETHING VERY LIKE A FLOUNCE. PRETTY SPRING HATS 7 Ribbon Crowns One of the Coming Features. ——— HOUSE WRAPS THAT ARE . UNIQUE Huge Lapels, Flounces, Hips and Shoulders. WINTER WHITE HAT —- (Copyright. PON ONE OF NEW York’s great trade avenues there Is an abomination of deso- lation, if desolate that can be called which is busy with men at work—let us rather say a desert, yawning with chasms and pitfalls, bristling with col- umns thrust into the air,criss-crossed with network of beams and pl jers and lattice girders and struts and ties and cross bars. No church in town covers such an area, no church has such a press of worsQip as will thither throng when the aisles are decked with drapirgs and the altar counters are brave with the trappery of trade. In the service of the fair who seek to be the fairer yet, one more, ten more, a thou- sand more, in every town of the land, are arising these mighty structures whose floor space is measured by acres and is still too small. In all this big world not war nor learning, nor philosophy, scarcely even love or religion, is so big a fact and factor as ‘woman's keen regard for color, form. and texture. Trade would sing small without it, and the growth of it is as rapid as that For shoulders ard hips cannot be both wide at once; and as we see the latter bulging out, the former must wane away, or break all the rules of long cherished tradition. Probably the sudden demand for hips that seem wider than nature could have intended has arisen mostly because of the strange desire that the short skirts of basques should stand straight out from the body, almost at right angles, than which it would be hard to imagine an arrange- ment less forgivable upon esthetic grounds. ‘The lithe slenderness of a Japanese maiden, the sinuous grace of a clinging empress gown—when shall we see how much better these are than bulk piled up where nature never placed it? The white hat is a freak of midwinter. Jacket With Fleecy Slopping Under- sleeves. It has little to recommend it to the wearer, much to the milliner in its readiness to soil. Of course the trimming is confined to black, usually in big splashes of velvet on the crown and in overhanging ostrich plumes. A white hat is at the test apt to look over large; but nothing can be much smarter than ‘a small while toque with black rib- tons and a bunch of blue violets and jet and silver ornaments. There is a great run upon all forms of stitched and braided garments. A rough, blu2 black cleth makes up into a splendid plain skirt with ro decoration save stitch- ing to break somewhat the monotony of its e. Braiding 13 employed about the mainly. A blue and gray. plaid, soft as a dove’s plumage, I have seen rendered very fierce by broad military braid and frogs, astrachan edging and gold cadet but- tons. From a wide waistband of velvet repeating the colors of the plaid falls a skirt whose only decoration is a large pleat kes SOME OF THE CUTEST IDEAS IN SPRING MILLINERY ARE FROM PARIS. of Jack’s beanstalk and far moré healthy. Perhaps textures were never more beau- tiful and colors never more gay than now. And in the spring—so basely do we an- ticipate the seasons, and desert for the future the present ere we can make friends with it—in the spring there will be bon- nets. Some of the cutest ideas In spring millinery are from Paris. These are small hats and tiny turbans, bearing usually the names of court beauties long ago dead and gone. The Dubarry shape has a fiat brim, turned sharply up behind, of colored straw in mixed tints, a crown of ribbon in close vertical pleats and a sheltering ostrich plume or two swept over it. The ribbon crown will be showy in a brilliant red. he Lamballe is not very dissimilar tn shape, but is of felt, constructed with a long bow of rather narrow ribbon in front and a loos2 pleat of wide sprigged ribbon standing upright about the crowr. these latter new quite a common arrangement. ‘These are odd only in minor details. The Beauharnais toque or turban—you can call at either—is more of an innovation. Figure it in blues, say—a shape not unlike a lib- erty cap behind in ciel blue, a black plume curling over from the left, a white plume falling outward from the middle front to- ward the right, where a red rosette is fast- ened, and in front a number of folds of Dresden ribbon in very light blue and white. This is a piquant and old-worldish head covering and more becoming and log- ical, I cannot help thinking, than the little toques of wire and beads that we have all seen. Huge lapels are worn with all manger of bodices, and now and then one see: e- thing very like a flounce, or several of them, ranging about shoulder and sleeve. Flowices of fluted chiffon, the under one’ light, the upper dark, are used with good effect-over an ordinary balloon sleeve upon an evening bodice, whase front is a strip of glace silk and whose sides are wonder- fully figured brocade. In another instance of the flounce flouncy,, the sleeves are completely formed by three deep flounées of sheer white silk, and white gloves are drawn to meet it above the elbows. The corsage is simply gathered to the belt and across the low | front runs a wide band of ruching, while $a mass of white roses verch upon each shoulder. +. One of the most unique house wraps I have ever seen is a tiny zouave of figured grayish green silk, with a velyet collar and , Velvet band across the bust, caught by \ Steel bosses. Hulf sleeves of the same fail ‘over fleecy sloping undersleeves of spider ‘web gray silk, which might as easily be 'white muslin. The belt is a wide, gathered ;band of velvet. After such a reign of big \gleeves, the shoulders seem very narrow, Dut I fancy we shall get better used to that. at the back edzed with astrachan and the braid. Many of the new plaids are in these softer and more delicate tints, avoiding the positive rede and greens that in a ruder age set the tartan precedent for all time. Black hopsacking with a white satin yoke covered with guipure and outlined th sable tail etching is a startling re- minder of the black and white combina- tions of a year or two ago. Some of the new gowns to be worn over padded hips employ a heavy and visible seaming of black, holding together a suc- cession of gores, running down the skirt. This is a sort of Eastlake construction- made-appa2rent device. We shall be sorry to quit us of the wide skirt if in its stead there comes the draped one; but of this there is only the unsupport- ed rumor. For a red-haired lady, or one whose tress- es stay the sun in his admiring course, to put it more poetically, a hat of green felt with violet velvet, with violet leaves and blossoms, is irresistible. For a house dress, a golden brown shot silk, with a frill front of pale rose pink silk, with a ruche of pink, green and brown. ELLEN OSBORN. = SS RIBBON SUMMER. This Dress Adjunct to Be Much in Evidence. Of course it is to bea ribbor®?summer, or- gandies and ribbons are concomitants, and ribbons and organdies seem disposed to run races to see which can be the more beau- tiful. Dresden designs are the favorites of the hour, but Persian designs run a close *| second. A wide stripe of satin taking about one-third of the width and the remainder of taffeta sprinkled with blossoms, mostly of the larger kind, seems to be the fashion- able ribbon just now. It comes in all the delicate shades and in pronounced patterns. The Persian ribbons have a narrow edge of dark color, with a set Persian design down the center. The colorings are per- fectly exquisite. The stamped. or “warp printed” ribbons with taffeta ground are much in vogue now, but they will be a little heavy for summer fabrics of the sheer kind. For soft light wools or summer silks they will make very pretty garniture. Plain taffeta ribbons in delicate shades sre shown for throat garniture. The very newest fad for collar adornment is a yard and a quarter length of fancy taff ribbon about three or four inches wide. Catch it in a fold or two in’ its center to the collar of your bodice in front, with a jeweled pin, then draw it back in folds and tle in a knot with long loops and corresponding ends in the back. becoming to almost everybody. they are It is @ very pretty arrangement, and most Leeriphs puldancs 0 IN HIGH SCHOOLS Tho Clubs for Social, Musical and Forensic Improvement. BOOKS GIVEN 70. THE EASTERN Addresses to Scholars on Live Issues of the Present Day. CADET DRILL PROGRAM The pupils of the third and fourth year of the Eastern High School have been given the opportunity at various times during the present year of hearing about questions of puolic interest, and of being stimulated to original thoughts and intelligent expres- sion upon such themes. Some weeks ago Mr. B. H. Werner gave an address to the pupils of these classes upon the theme, well suited both to him and to the young tdea—‘‘Money: How to Make It and How to Mgke the Most of It.” . Last week Senor Gonzalo de Quesada aroused the fires of liberty in the hearts of the pupils of the whole school, with an impassioned address upon the subject “Cuba, Her Struggles and Her Hopes.” The result of these general themes thus presented to the prpils has been very grati- fying in quickening the interest of these prcspective citizens of the District in mat- ters upon which intelligent people need to be informed. Various other features in this plan are in prospect. Handsome Gift of Books. The Eastern High School was the re- cipient a few weeks ago of a valuable do- nation of bocks, the property of the late William Hendley, examiner in the patent office, which were presented to the school by his widow, Mrs. Mary A. Hendley. The collec‘ion is of a high order of literary and scientific merit, and will add to the avail- able reference library of the school nearly 1,000 volumes. Formal exercises in ac- ceptance of the gift were held today, at which a statement regarding the collection was made by Principal C. W. Lacey Sites, and brief remarks in acceptance of the gift were offered by Superintendent Powell and others. e : School Clubs. There has been a decided interest taken In clubs of all kinds since the close of the holi- days, and there’ have been no less than half a dozen promulgated in the past three weeks. Although there was a decided stand taken by the faculty against the formation of social and other clubs at the beginning of the school year, they are more numerous than ever before, but they only gained per- mission to organize through the most ur- gent and constant appeals, with the pro- vision that they must be in charge of a member of the faculty. Drill Competition. An increased interest has also been taken by the cadets in their drill since the an- nouncement_that the program for their an- nual struggle would be given to the captains at the end of this week or the beginning of next, as they will then lay aside their old methods of drill and begin practice for the competition, which will very likely take place the Jast week in May. Maj. B. R. Ross bas been kept busy ever since the holidays using his spare moments preparing the drill program, which is expected to be decidedly unique this year. He would have issued the programs a week ago had he determined whether or not to have platoon movements. The doubt on this point was caused by the poor showing of some of the company as to numbers, and the probability of their not being able to retain as many as twenty-four men until after the competition, as it is necessary to have at least this number of men in order to be able to use the platoon movements. So far he has completed ail of the movements for the manual of arms and determined upon the setting up exercises. If piatoon movements are introduced, it is thought that the competition will not be so close, as the drill would also tax the ability of the two lieutenants, who would be as lia- ble to make mistakes as the captain. Here- tofore the subalterns have been mere figure heads, as they have had no more to do than the fourth and fifth sergeants, and now that there are prospects of having platoon move- ments, these four file closers are anxiously anticipating the appearance of the program. Cadet News. From what Major Ross said at the East- ern last Monday, when Capt. Hurst be- gan teaching the firings, it is thought that they will not be as extensive as last year, and possibly will not be attempted at ail, because they exhaust a great deal of time and patience and are the most uncertain of any of the movements. At any rate, if they are on the program, they will be exe- cuted according to last year’s tactics, be- cause the new regulations adopted some time ago require the new magazine rifle. Dana Wight has been assigned to the vacant fifth sergeancy in company E, to which he will probably be appointed next week, and Private P. D. Frost has been appointed a corporal in company D. A New Glee Clab. Following the course of the Central and Eastern schools, the Business has also or- ganized a Glee Club among the boys of the second year, who will meet every Fri- day. The outlook is very encouraging, in- deed, as there were about twenty-five who attended the first meeting, which was held yesterday afternoon during the last hour of school, and a half dozen or more selections were sung. At present the membership comprises R. Weber Bryan, president; Thos. R. Clift, treasurer; Eugene Gough, secre- tary; Lieut. Bernard R. Kelly, George H. Beuchert, Willard A. Simonds, Henry R. Stringer, Lee Ross, William Eccard, Worth L. Harper, Arthur Hughes, Theodore C. Felter, jr., Lieut. William S. Blanchard, John McWhorter, W. 8. Hall, M. Herman, Herbert Brycnt, Robert L. Stone, H. Tel- jer, Archibald and Melville Hays. With Miss Scammel, the singing teacher, as lead- er, and Miss McNelley as pianist, the so- ciety bids fair to succeed. Business School Library. Of late the library of this school has been given a new aspect, and assigned to separate quarters on the second floor next to the office. Several new reading tables and a large rug have been put in position, thus making a very cozy Mbrary. Book shelves have been placed all around the zoom, and many new books have been pur- chased, so that now the collection comprises about 300 reference books. All of these im- provements have been made through funds raised by entertainments during the past two years, and it is proposed to raise money to buy additional books by similar means later in the year. Miss Robinette of the faculty has charge of the library, and is at present cataloguing the books according to the Dewey system. Business Lettering. Beginning with this year, Mr. Thurston has started a class in business lettering, and at present has about twenty-five mem- bers in this class. The pupils who elect this study are given an idea of what is required in business, and are taught meth- ods for making small price signs, and also hew to engross diplomas. Mr. David Wolfe Brown, the chief sten- ographer in the House of Representatives, has promised this school a lecture, which he will probably deliver next week, al- though no date has been decided upoi This will be the fourth lecture this year, the other three having been delivered by Messrs. B. Warner, Gov. Shepherd and Isaac Gans. Kamptown Soshul Kiub. The time is drawing near when this well- known Geergetown club, which is composed of the students of the Western High School, will make its annual bow to the public. The club, which is the only organization of its kind in the high schools, feels that it is able, and has selected a program which will appeal to the public as no previous one has done. The first part of the program will be the usual minstrel overture, and the second part will he a selection from Shake- speare’s Midsummer Night’s Dream, which clut under the most com- Mrs, Walton. he ob- to promote a loy: Ject school ‘the interests of the onion to the F had eto sui ing a ie of f their ent ments. At the reh held. three times @ week, Mr. Ale: as musical director, and under mn they hay attained quite a d of ‘. ‘When the t ’ bazaar was held last month they. came prompt forward, and through their endea’ Leech, president; vice , treasurer; Mr. Hl. = Duckett, secretary, and Messrs. Beall, 8. d, ¥F. . Reed, Tanner, Waters, “Wilson, Wright R. Kirtland, Mo- Kee, Ramsburg, Taussig, Thompson and Whiting. Euphrosnye Club. This is the only fou¥th-year club at the Eastern, and is madg up of third-year grad- uates of last year and fourth-year pupils. There are no regular- meetings held by the club, but they generally have at least one social gathering every month. Those who claim membership are Misses Ball, Brock, Bret, Deis, Eckels, mi » Steward, Stoutenburg, Richmond, Weide and Yoder and Messrs. Brown, J. Brock, N. Gapen, Burnham, Wilson, H. Brock, Steward, P. Brock, T. Graff, Les Duc, Murphy, Parson and Herrell. District Laws. The Eastern school was recently honored by a lecture from Mr, Walter C. Clephane, an ex-High School boy and one of the most prominent members of the District bar. His subject was, ‘Law in the District,” and dur- ing his lecture he reviewed the manner in which old English law, bequeathed through the proprietary of Lord Baltimore, had be- come and to some extent remained the law of what is now the District of Columbia, thus explaining to the pupils the peculiar legal system in-our city. The scientific sec- tions of this school also had the pleasure of hearing some fine German songs by Herr Burchard, an ex-High School boy and broth- er to Miss Burchard of the faculty. Herr Burchard sang to the pupils of the Central last Monday. Debating Societies. During the past week there have been three distinct debating societies at the Cen- tral High School. Two of the societies have been formed by young ladies, and in this un- dertaking they are determined to over- shadow the results attained by the boys’ de- Hears clubs, which have all been short ved. The pioneer debaters are the third year girls, who have held three meetings so far. Their name is “Pi Delta Lambda,” and, be- ing in Greek, they hope to keep it secret. At the first meeting a committee, consist- ing of Misses Martin,Dean and Seaver,was appointed to draw up a constitution and by- laws, which were adopted at the next meet- ing. The question debated at the last meet- ing was, “Resolved, That examinations are not a fair test of a person’s ability,” which wa’ won by the affirmative side. The subjects for dehate at the next two regular Friday meetings are: “Resolved, That co-education is bencficia!,” and ‘Re- solved, That an oath is binding under all circumstances.” Mr. R. Randolph Upton of the faculty was invited to take charge of the club, which will meet in his class room each Friday. The officers are Miss Edith Gresvenor, president; Miss Allace Seaver, vice president, and Miss Annie Clark, sec- retary, and the other members are Misses Estelle Martin, Mildred Dean, Grace En- dicott, Clara Stutz, Mabel Claitin, Laskey, Dennison, and Victoria Ludgate. The other girls’ society is “The Sopho- more Debating Society,” which originated from the desire of the young ladies to im- prove in their English work, which 1s largely argumentatjve discourse, and to insure greater interest in history recitations by acquiring fluency and confidence in oral work. At the first meeting of the society Mr. Harry English, instructor of mathematics, was elected president; Miss A. A. Clark, vice president, and Missy Evans, secretary. A committee consisting of the three officers and Misses Warner‘and’ Sanders was then appointed to pay particular attention to the important questions: of ‘the day, a discus- sion of which will always be the opening feature of each meeting.’ The first debate, which-was held last Fri- day, proved exceedingly interesting. The subject debated was, ‘ “Hesolved, That Thomas a’ Becket was sincere in his life as Archbishop of: Canterbury,” and was supported by Mifses: Farlee and Clark, while Misses R. Sanders and Saxton: de- fended the negative side, which lost the de- bate after a warm contest. The subject for tomorrow's debate fs, “Re- solved, That Jessica was justifiable in all of her actions concerning her flight.” The young ladies who are to uphold the af- firmative side are Misses Evans and Morris, while Misses Davis and Heitmuller dre to support the negative. The other members are Misses Randolph, Bowers, Walter, Bowhbeer, Yerkes, Sikken, F. Sanders and Faber. Boys’ Debating Club. ‘The boys’ society, now laboring under the proposed name of the Central High School Literary and Debating Society, was or- ganized simultaneously with the other two societies. Mr. Burton, the promoter, know- ing the advisability of having such an or- ganization, asked permission from Dr. Lane to form one before Xmas, but did not receive his consent until last week. After several conferences the superintendent's objections were removed, but he had them to guarantee that no new members, other than twelve charter ones, would be admlt- ted without his approval. The preliminary meeting was held last Wednesday, and Mr. Burton was elected chairman pro tem., and Capt. Hoge was appointed secretary pro tem. Messrs. Platt, Fox and Julihn were then appoif€ed as a committee to draw up a constitution and report at the next meet- ing. Mr. Harry English, of the faculty, was unanimously elected an honorary member and*then the meeting adjourned. Some of the members are: Mr. Burton, Lieut. Platt, Lieut. Farrow, Capt. Hoge, Capt. Julihn, Maj. Fox, Lieut. Howe, Capt. Hoover, Lieut. Wood and Lieut. Kummel. The second, third and fourth year stu- dents of this school enjoyed quite an elaborate musical program yesterday after school, which consisted of a plano solo, Chopin's fantasia in C minor, by Miss ‘Beston; Herzen’s “Fruehling,” by Miss Perkins; a violin solo, mazurka, Wenlawski, by Mr.’ Anton Burchard, who also sang Greig’s “Ich Liebe Dich" and Rubinstein’s “The Asra.” These songs were heartily encored, and he responded with a German student's song. Miss Beston next played Felden’s caprice in B major, and Mrs. Perkins drew forth great applause. by rendering “Sally in Opr Alley.” As an en- core she sang Bohm’s “Calm as the Night,” which concluded the entertainment. School Journalism. Three of the four school papers appeared this week for the first time this year, and are just as creditable as any of their pre- vious issues. The Western School has adopted a new plan of publishing its paper by having the different classes supply copy, thereby inciting competition among. the sophomores,juniors and seniors, to see whith class can publish the best edition. So far each class has edited one issue, and it is hard to decide whieh (is best, but it Is thought by many that thé last one, that of the seniors, is the ‘tmosf. interesting. The Balance Sheet has npt increased any, but is of the same size as whth it started. The board of editors afd business staff has been considerably cut ddwn and changed, and now consists of Robett L. Stone, chair- man; Bernard R. Helly,’ regimental; laide Miller, society ;“Cafanthe Stickel, e: change, and Mary’£E.©'Connor, for the alumni, as editors, ahd Euther C. Steward, as manager, and Shermn M. Craiger, for the alumni, are on the business staff.’ The Eastcrner is at piesent without an editor-in-chief, as Mr. Spaulding has left school, and has fourid nd time to devote to the paper. Notwithstanding this, the paper came out on its regular date. ¢ pall Written for The Evening Stat, A Question of Color. You will see about the cities Many young and ardent souls With a little colored ribbon Streaming from their button holes, Some the Princeton black and orange, Some the red and white unfold; You will see but one among them Who displays the blue and gold. None among them know the meaning Of the badge they thus behold; None among them love thelr colors As he loves the blue and gold. Some one’s eyes are blue, I’m told. Happy, bappy is the fellow Who can wear the blue and gold. —HARRY McGAW WOOD. have undertaken to pay for A SPIDER’S SILK A Device for Reeling Out the Deli- cate Strands. INDIGNATION OF THE LITTLE WEAVER No Practical ‘Advantage, as the Material Cannot Be Used. FEELING RATHER THAN SIGHT (Copyright, 1896.) HIS 18 WRITTEN l for boys only. Girls, of course, wouldn't touch the nasty things—not for any- thing. Unleés, in- deed, there is a “new” girl, too; and I rather hope there isn't, for I am such an old boy now that I don’t like innova- tions. The old girls; that is, the sort of = girls I used to know, seem to me hardly to admit of improve- ment. And they just hated spiders. But I was a boy, and to me a big, fat, sprawly spider was one of the- most interesting things in nature. One day I was watching a fine large apecimen completing his web. The stay- ropes were already stretched across the open window, and beginning where they crossed he was hobbling round and round fastening the cross-lines of fresh shiny silk. - Suddenly it occurred to me that I might reel out that silk for my own use—or amusement. Really, I fancied myself on the verge of a great discovery. Why might not & most beautiful fabric be made of that Duel Between Spider and Large Ant. glistening material? Who could tell what might come of it? So I managed to get hold of the end of the strand, and began to draw it out. Now, if there is anything that a spider particu larly detests it is to be robbed of his silk; no pack-peddler values his stock half so Nighly. As soon, therefore, as my victim perceived what I was at, he reached back with a claw and snipped the thread. This Was repeated several times. Then I saw that I must devise some means for preventing this sort of inter- ference. So I cut a small.round hole in a bit of card board, and made a slit from the hole to the edge—see cut. This ar- rangement I slipped about my spider's wasp-like waist. As his legs were on one side of the card, and his abdomen with the spinners on the other, he could no longer meddle with the thread; neither could he get out of the sort of pillory in which I had placed him. He wasn’t hurt in the least, but he was altogether helpless and in the worst of humors. Then I got hold of the strand with a pair of tweezers, and proceeded to draw out as much silk as I pleased, winding it about my finger. But this process was slow, and did not satisfy me. I wanted spider's silk in bulk; my head was full of schemes for producing a new and beautiful fabric from this bright and elastic material. I therefore mounted a@ spool upon a spindle in such a way that I could make it rotate with great speed by Reeling Silk From the Reluctant Spider. means of a band running from a wheel— about eight inches in diameter—which I turned with a crank. To this spool I at- tached the end of the thread, and set my machine in motion. It was a great suc- cess, The spindle sang like a humming top as it spun on its bearings, reeling his precious silk from that disgusted spider until the glistening thread covered the spool as with a sheet of varnish. An an- grier insect, I fancy, never lived; but what could he do about it? And afterward I fed him well by way of compensation. ‘Thus far my plans had worked to perfec- tion; but when I endeavored to utilize the material so unscrupulously obtained, like many another thief, I became involved in difficulties. I found that the adhesive strands—so perfectly adapted to the own- er’s own business of fly catching—were not so well suited to manufacturing purposes as I had fondly hoped. In fact, they had glued themselves together so firmly that I was never able to unwind them from the spool, and my invention, though highly in- teresting, did not prove remunerative—a lucky thing for the spiders. There were other experiments that I tried with these ungainly pets—some of them too cruel, as I now realize, but I was quite unconscious of it then. For exampie, I often wafted files against a large fresh web, and in this way I presently discovered that the ordinary spider, though he has eyes with numberless facets, is really al- most blind. He does not trust to sight at all. He stands waiting at the center of his 21 He was not so fortunate, however, with a large black ant which I treacherously dropped upon his web. The ant began to struggle,and down came the spider; where- upon the ant coolly bit off one of his legs. The spider withdrew in dismay; but being mandibles without effect on the hard armor of the ant, who meanwhile nipped off an- other leg. In the third attack the ant began to operate on his enemy’s abdomen, and the spider, escaping with difficulty, retreated utterly discomfited. Then the ant proceed- ed to break the meshes, and fell unharmed to the floor. Thus were the files avenged. —— MODERN DINING ROOMS. How They Should Be Treated to Make ‘Them Attractive. Frem the New York Herald. “Much depends on dining,” and much de- pends also on the room in which we dine. A safe general rule is that dining room fur- niture should be dark, though not gloomy. Oak has been the accepted wood for a longer time than it deserved. It is ugly, while ma- hegany is very beautiful, giving a sugges- tion of warmth and richness so suitable to this room. The high-backed chairs were a move in the wrong direction, for while a high-backed chair is comfortable and restful, one cannot Properly loll at a dinner. They make deft service on the part of the waitress an im- possibility, and if a dining room happens to have windows with a desirable view they obstruct it. But there is no excuse for the chairs not being comfortable, and to this end let them be of sufficient depth in the seat. The carver's chair must have arms and a smaller armchair is generally pro- vided for the mistress. High-topped sideboards have gone out along with that monstrosity, the bedstead with towering headboard. A pretty and | artistic fancy is the low buffet, without any top at all, that prevailed a century ago. One of the prettiest effects in a dining room is produced by a collection of plates hung over such a sideboard. Indeed, you can scarcely use too much china in dining room decora- tion, stopping short, of course, of any sug- gestion of a wholesale china house. Nar- row shelves with low railings over the doors, the cabinet mantel with its shelves and | nooks, 2 corner cabinet with glass front and sides, a hanging wall cabinet may all | be used for the display of odd or pretty pieces. A city dining room and a country dining rcom are entirely different affains, and must be treated differently. Of the latter, one in pretty Montclair presents itself to my mind's eye as a model. Through its two great, wide windows you get glimpses of landscapes as charming as anything Corot ever painted. Separated frgm this by a wide curtained arch is the most fascinating of libraries, where there are cushioned divans and great roomy chairs, and books—everywhere books | tempting you to hours of dreamful ease. The fortunate guest who finds himself seat- ed opposite this room sees through a broad, low window the nearby perpling hills which anon are covered with bewildering shades of green and again glow in scarlet and gold. The big fireplace is tiled, and a truly log fire burns on the red brick hearth, with its wrought iron fire dogs and fender. The table is real mahogany—at least a hundred years old—and the chairs, of like antiquity, have been upholstered in gray green Morris tapestry. Almost across one side of the room in building the house a niche or sort of bay was thrown out to fit the heirloom ma- hogany sideboard, whose brass fittings and warm polish reflect the glow of the fire. Atcve this is a triumph in the way of stained glass, sending pale green and gold and silvery glints across the table. The walls are hung with pale green cartridge paper; the wide frieze shows tropical foliage, palms and grasses in darker shades of green. and graceful maidenhair ferns are tied up with flowing Icve knots of green ribbons on the ceiling. On one side of the fireplace a Dutch double door opens into a vine-covered, roomy porch, with seats built on three sides of it. At the other side is a quaint, curious cabinet, with unlooked-for shelves, and corners filled with china chosen especially. for its harmonizing but contrasting colorings. The hazel-eyed mistress is an advanced, but not a “new woman.” soe Some Fashion Notes. All the new silks are striped, and they are stiffer than ever. That, too, would presage big, full skirts. At least there is no symptom of a decrease in the apparent width, though it is true that not as much material is being put in them. It really looks like “hoops.” The tendency to trim everything with fur grows, but some of the fur used is so cheap that it will undoubtedly kill the fad before long. When fur goes, jet will take its place quite promptly. It is used in conjunction with fur a great deal anyhow. Good jet pays the buyer, but cheap jet doesn’t pay for the fastening on the gown. Turquoise blue is to be the favorite for summer. You will find it in silk and wool, | and in velvet. It is being worn a great deal right now. The princess dress is gaining in favor, as dress goods grow heavier. You simply can- not keep heavy skirts from parting com- pany with waists if made in the old way. Small bustles are worn. They are soft cushions of hair or down, and are in no sense prominent, but they seem quite nec- essary to fill out the hollow just below the waist line caused by women not knowing how to stand properly. ——EEE An Anti-Flirting Law a Failure. From the Chicago Inter-Ocean, The effort to provide in Virginia by legis- lative enactment for the puriishment of boys flirting with schoolgirls seems to have been unsuccessful. About two years ago a law was passed making it a misdeameanor, punishable upon conviction by fine, for any man to loiter about a female sahool. The Fresident of a prominent Richmo\d female college was the first to attempt a yrosecu- tion under the law. Later a simNar at- tempt was made in one of the border cities to convict a young man of ogling the airls. His counsel, however, promptly gave no\ce that he would subpoena all of the lajly teachers and many of the girls and brag them into court as witnesses. Rathey than subject the ladies to this humil-tion the principal abandoned the proz-cution. This line of defense indicates the futility of con- victing flirters under the law, and it will be repealed. . +o+—____ Demoralizing Pleasures. From the Chicage Record. “Hobbs, your little boy is getting hor- ribly rough.” “Yes. I must stop his going around his mother on bargain days.” with STXLES IN SHOES. Footwear That is the Thing for the Street or Evening Use. “No shoon to hide her tiny taes,” sings the Poet, but not of the modern Cinderclla. Probably never in the history of woman were styles in shoes so varied, or so cheap. Once a woman of fashion did not feel that she was properly shod unless her foot cov- rings cost her from ten to fifteen dollars a pair; now she feels excellently shod in boots that cost five, and elippers that cost two and a half. But there are styles in shoes? Yes, in- deed. About every three months madam must change the style of her footgear t¢ correspond with the very latest fed. There is where the cost comes in. Where one pair of fine shoes, costing ten dollars, would last her six months for “dress” and Six months long- er for “common,” madam now pays five dollars for a three months’ wear and then gives them to her maid. It isn’t to be supposed for a mo- ment that madam is going to wear a square toe when a “‘Trilby” is in vogue, or that she will wear dm opera toe when a “toothpick” is the swell thing. If heels in the middie of the instep and built on the step-ladder plan are the proper caper, madam is going to cripple her poor old feet tipping around on them, rather than be sensible in low, broad hecis, such as become her years. Just now, however, you “pa; your money and you takes your choice,’ for there is much latitude as to heels, if there isn’t much as to toes. For evening wear, at least, toes are less pointed. Women do get sensible streaks once in a while, and this fs certainly one of them. The shoes for the street have still the absurd we stuff- ed out with cotton. Another change in evening shoes is the tendency to trim - ming. Nearly all of them have bows of ribbon or a flap of soft leather or a rosette of silk with rhinestone buckles. These. of course, tend to give the foot that thick, extremely high - looking® instep that was thought for a hundred years to be a mark of “blue blood.” The heels still follow the French fashion for height, but are not so extreme as they used to be. For an evening dress slipper, the color should be that of the gown, of silk, satin or suede. If the foot is not right shapely forego the satin slipper for the suede. The toe may be embroidered with pearl beads, or steel ones, and a bow with two loops and two ends nearly covering the toe will be quite swell-looking. A simpler foot cover- ing is of suede, with a single str broidered i gold bea pretty is one of white suede, with a fluffy lace bow and paste buckle in the center. For plainer toilets the patent leather slinper With a high flap and paste buckle is pret- ty. But if you want a very swell-looking slipper for demi or full dress wear, patent leather one with a long bow of black veivet ribbon, lined with red satin, and an immense paste buckle that covers the whole instep will make your foot a mark of interest. There is but little change in the shoe for outdoor wear, bright and dull dongola, with tips of the same, being the popular shoe. They stiil remain quite pointed, but laced shoes seem to be gaining in popularity. SOME SPRING FABRICS. LY, F&, It actually gives one cold chills to go into a shop all muffied up to the eyes in furs and flannels, and see the counters heaped up with sheerest organdies, mulls and cobweb lawns, and yet here they are! The winter season, only just fairly getting the pace, and the new not worn off our imported gowns, and now we must hustle to get the pick of the newest shades and patterns for our summer frocks! Have you seen any of these new fabrics? Positively, it is as good as any display in an art studio. No water color ever showed daintier handling than that exhibited in the flower sprays and wreaths on the iace- like fabrics that are designated as organ- dies, and no gobelin tapestries were ever more cunningly devised than the Persian effects that come in soft silks and lawns for summer wear. It seems that stripes will be the rage. A delicate ground of lilac, or blush, or canary, with long, grace- ful flower strands in continuous chain, separated by a quarter-inch stripe of black, or a much darker shade of the same color as the ground, is the style you see most of now. The stripes are three or more inches wide. ‘This presages the ad< vent of tall, sylph-like figures again, or else that skirts are to be full and flowing, with wider effects than ever. Modistes do not talk much yet, but one who studies those things must conclude that long, straight breadths in skirts will prevail, for to cut those stripes in gores would present a most pizerre appearance, and a waist that was cut in side forms and seams down the back would make one look positively grotesque. The blouse waist will be here in all its forces, and h new charms, early in the spring, of that you may be sure. Other lawns have a shimmering kind of a lightning-struck stripe in dark color on light ground, tnat makes you think that crepon weaves ave invaded the domain of cotton. Some of the e: te-colored or- gandies have great bunc soms scattered ove the flowers print» the taffetas, wit effect that is perve are on hing. white organdies thouga they would 1 breathed heav- ily upon them © course, all this thin stuff presages colore| linings. India sks in the thin weaves and brigat colors will be vsed for slips 10 wear under these flower gar- dens, 2nd you can have ro Sdea how very pretty the effe>: Is. If the color to go mn- der is wisely and artistically chosen, it heightens the effect of the fiewer ccioring, adding brilliancy and charm to the mate- rial. in thin air if > Lucky. From Life. Briggs—“I hear that Pilter and his wife ving with her parents now.” ‘Is that so? What is the ree man at poker to méve out.” ———_ +0 The Hold Up. From the Detroit News-Tribure. “I was held up on my way home last night.” “Oh, pshaw! You must have been driny ing. “Certainly.” From the Flilegende Blatter. THE’ WAITRESS.