Evening Star Newspaper, October 6, 1894, Page 15

‘THE ‘EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 6, 1894 TWENTY PAGES. CHAT ABOUT HATS - —s The Old Straw or Felt Changed Into a Modish Creation. che FURBISHING UP OLD TRIMMINGS The Brilliant Hues Shown in the Array of Felts. ~ - YOUR TASTE, ARE atril changes in the mifinery from those worn during the summer.” That a = is the way every| Modified English Walking Hat. fashion journal opens the subject of au- tumn headgear, and yet we all know very well that we can't go on wearing tulle hats or an inconsequential bow of ribbon called an evening bonnet, without running the risk of z 2 spell of cold in the head from exposure, or being taken up and sat upon by a jury inquiring into our macy. A change of materials is imperative, whether we build on the ob! / shapes or not. The question of autumn millinery is al- ways a serious one. It so difficult to der tines of stra nd ustomed all summer to come back to t felt after bftng a old ones and curled for a very small sum, and if you are economical enough to buy good tips in the start, they will last you for several seasons. ° With your materials in good shape the trimming ought to be a small matter. But, if you can’t follow the designs in a fashion book, take your hat to a milliner—there are private ones who do that sort of thing nicely for a quarter ora half a dollar—and you will have a handsome new hat at a cost of a dollar at the outside, which makes allowance for a new buckle or an aigrette. I don’t know how to tell you to fix up crushed velvet. I never found any, y to do it myself, and I doubt if it can fone effectually. If it is not’ crushed, it with a soft brush, and after get- ting the dust all out, you can stiffen it by holding over a basin of steaming water, but you must he careful to not fold it or ch the pile till it is dry, While steam- you can pull a good many of the les out, but on the whole, velvet 1s isfactory stuff to freshen up. Here is a big picture hat that could be easily fixed up out of old material. The im is covered inside and out by rows of lace, headed with narrow velvet ribbon. The ribbon ts jetted with cut beads, and that would be an casy thing to do in a leisure moment, but if you buy it outright it will cost you a dollar a yard. The pompom of tips would be just as pretty as this aigrette of jet. if your white straw sailor Is getting dingy, line the inside of the brim with biack velvet, put a narrow bias roll close to the outside edge, and then adjust black vel- vet ribbon in loops, caught with small jet buckles. Either white or black tips will be effective, and they will also hide the soiled top of the crown. You can freshen up @ red sailor by using black velvet on it in the same way, or blue velvet and dark tips on a bive sailor. The sailor shape is just as stylish now as it was four years A Big Pieture Hat. the soft picturesque lace and lisse hats, with their masses of soft mull and pretty flowers, and it ts so much more difficult to suit one’s style in the stiffer hats. Since “there are no striking changes” in the Shapes, why buy any of the new ones yet? Just take your old black sun hat and furbish it up. If it ts the fine straw, or the ever Popular leghorn, rip the trimming off and dust it thoroughly. Then lay it flat upon the table and take a damp cloth and rub it till the straw is damp through. Lay a black cloth over the brim and run a mod- erately hot iron over it till it fs dry. Then Fereh it on a tin bucket or pan, the bottom of which just fits the crown, and fron that the same way. Then leave it in the sun to get pesfectly dry. After you are sure that it is ary, take some liquid blacking, such as you use on your boots, and give it a coat, out- side and in, and let that dry. Then give it another. You will be surprised and pleased with the result, for your hat will look like new. If you have no straw, but have a last winter's felt or velvet, rip off the trim- ming and brush and dust it well. The felt will be improved by rubbing with a black cloth dampened in borax water, or by a gascline rub. Then hang in the sun to get Tid of the odor. Having got your hat. be it felt, straw or velvet, back to its primal condition, the question of trimming comes next. It may be that you have plenty of lace, velvet, feathers and jet trimming to make it quite if you will only exercise a little in- genuity in renovating them. If you have a quantity of the yellow hat iace, for in- Stance, that is badly soiled, take it and A White Straw wew it on a strip of old muslin that fs a little wider than it is. Use very coarse white basting thread, and catch down every little point, running threads through the center as well. Make a strong borax water, lukewarm, and rub some white soap in it till it lathers. Then put the muslin In and Jet it soak for half an hour. Then pick up an end end souse it back and forth tn the | water, shaking it vigorously. Don't rub it | or squeeze it a bit. Keep up the dipping till the soiled spots disappear. ‘Then lift tt into a in of cl n wa water and souse throuzh that, and so on until the last water looks perfectly clear. Then make another strong borax water and dip the lace in that and then lift ft eut and hang in the stn to drip. When tt seems to be nearly dry, sit down et a table where you can lay the lace and stretch the mvrslin and straighten points all out with a pin. Ther fold it er, mustin and all, and put under a ht ay till It is perfectly dry. > will come out as yellcw and stiff “ct as it was when you paid a dol- yard for it var ribbons mm ter what color, or how detieate the sha make a luke- warm borax water, and dip the ribbons— ene color at a time, of course—tn that, strip them through the fingers. rub between the hands, and don't sq Then lay on aclean cloth, black, if the rib- | bon fs dark, and rub with a cloth wet in borax water. Then dip in a bowl of clean water end lay across a mirror or long | pane of glass, rubbing it on with a cloth. That will take every wrinkle out of ft, and you nmst leave ft there till it dries. This will not restore faded colors, but it will leave ribbons looking like new, and if your ribbon ts faded on one side only, or is fa@ed in spots, you can easily use it again. For feathers—ostrich tips—you can have your ago. One of the new shapes rolls up in front 4 Cerixe Velvet and Cut Steel. and back ulike, and comes in both felt and straw. The trimming is simple, a twist of velvet or silk about the crown and a tip or twe, caught der a knot of the velvet with a fancy buckle. This shape is becom- ing to young faces only. An_ English walking hat varies the shape a little and has a square turn up in the brim behind. It rolis at the side, coming well over the face, and has for decoration a knot of vel- vet and two tiny wings with an aigrette. A charming hat in one of the new bent Bread Enough for Anybody. shapes {s in cerise velvet, bordering on petunia, and has a knot of black velvet, three black tips, the edges crusted with silver, and a twist of bisek velvet caught with cut steel buckles. It is gorgeous. A perfectly stunning ture hat is broad enough for a Quaker or a cowboy, and is of canary colored felt, turned up at the side back with a knot of black velvet. Black ostrich tips run riot all over it, and between them fs a glittering view of cut jet trimming and jet buckles, fastened in narrow twists of Diack velvet. The mest brilliant hues are seen in the felt hats, one shop I was in recently hav- ing on Its counters felt flats in seventy-five shades and colors. Felt is the favorite, after straw, which will be worn late this season, ayd already there are some of the furry beavers shown, with the promise that they will be quite the thing for children and misses later tn the season. In trim- mings, birds stand at the head of the Ist. ‘They are mostly sad colored, and sadder lcoking. 1 positively would not have a bird on my hat, if I had to wear the tacky- looking things ‘that are shown now. They look as though they might have been moulting when slain for my lady’s hat, and were calmly going on with the pro: cess. As for tips and pompons and al- d things, wity they are r anything, and quite sonable as to cdst, though, of course, have to pay for quality. You alw: have to do that. Velvet and satin, braids of felt, and bands of bratded straw, silk and ribbon—they are all used for garniture, and you have but to sult your taste, and you will be in “the style. Low. B. THE NEW NECK SCARF. ‘The Modest Girl Now Wears « Czarina From the Philadelphia Pross. A pretty new thing the modish girl is wearing these autumn days 's a czarina. With gloves and neckties it forms the third article of wearing apparel she is entitled to accept as a gift of a masculine admirer. It is a neck fixing, a collar made of satin 1 three crna- tal buckles. broad nale of powdered with ced pearls, for example, a very broad dou- ble-looped bow of wide satin ribbon ts drawn. Passing on around the neck it {s eatght by little buckles on either side of the throat. These are in the s wreaths, and at the back the ri with a small frilling. A leading New jeweler has made them_in imttation of neck bands worn by the Empress of all the Russians, and some of the buckics used are elaborately set with jewels or exqui- sitely enameled. One of the chicf reccm- mendations these collars make to the Man- you' person {fs founded on the overy that when she fs weary of wear- ing a collar that has a vast bow under her chin she can, at very httle ense, turn the buckles into lovely pins, sultable for use with any gown and on any occasion. toe Big Rivgs for W From the Manufacturing Jewell: The latest fashionable freak among wo- men who are blessed with pretty hands tg to wear an immense ring, Mke a Roman Catholic bishop's, on the first finger of the right hand. [t used to be considered t height of vulgarity to place a ring on the index finger, but mow this decoration is the dernier cri. The ring must be a superb one, and must partake of the slender and grace- fu: daintiness of the “Marquise” circle. It must be solid, big and respectably eccle- siastic in its appearance. The feminine mind, always desirous of presenting con- trasted effects to poor humanity, sees the delicately castic anomaly of a little, white, frivolous-looking hand wearing a big, aggressively solid sort of ring. CAPES AND COATS Suggestions to Be Considered in Selecting Fall, Wraps. PRETTY SHAPES AND MATERIALS How Fair Ones May Be Stylish and Comfortable. THE ACCEPTED FASHIONS ——_+—____. Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. If there is one thing more than another that causes a woman to spend sleepless nights and unhappy days it is the selection of a style for a fall wrap. There is 80 much to be considered. if the purse is thin— and whose purse isn’t, I should like to know, at this season, with autumn styles of dress goods never so high before in years, and new hats to buy, and gloves?—it is simply awful, yet here come the cool mornings and chilly evenings, which de- clare emphatically that a wrap is an im- perative necessity! There are so many things to think about in the selection of a wrap. First is the fashion of it. Shall it be short or lung? The modes may be long, and if one is dump—no, plump, a long wrap Is out of the question. If one is very tall, and what the graceless call “raw boned,” then a short wrap is not to be thought of, no matter if fifty fashions de- clare In favor of it. Shall we render our- selves ridiculous, just to please so flexible a thing as Fashion? Then it may be that coats are in vogue, when everybody who knows anything about it must remember that you wore cut a pair of boots chasing For All Occasions. after the very stiffest buckram in suffictent quantity to line the sleeves of all your new street frocks! Cloth to make coat sleeves big enough to take those dress sleeves in would have to be woven in extra length, like the White House carpets. And, any- how, coats are not becoming to you. Then there is the color and the cloth. If one can have but one wrap for the season, both of these are serious questions. The new wrap must be of a sufficiently subdued color to wear to market and to church—for a woman isn’t going to wear a last year’s wrap to the market when everybody knows that it is a favorite place for men to go to look at the flowers—the pretty market girls, as well as the pretty girls who do the marketing. The cloth ts a very sertous consideration, indeed. It must be inconspicuous, vet up to date as to finish. It must be thick enough to protect one from the coldest weather, and yet not have the appearance of melting one with its weight, when the warm, sunshiny days are with us. Well, The Star always likes to please its readers, but there are some questions that its numerous fair friends will have to de- cide for thempelyes. From among the wraps here presented they ought to find something that will satisfy all needs as to style, comfort and suitability. The cape is the wrap par excellence just at present. Coats will probably come in for a large share of favor later in the season, but no- body is going to wear a coat ‘for two months yet. A wrap may be made of any kind of material that suits your fancy, And it may also de of any r, yet it must not be in too great contrast to the gown with which you wear it, unless it is for a gala occasion. A cape that I saw this week was a dream of beauty, yet its cost Was comparatively small. It was an even- ing wrap for a young lady. There was a The Top Cape is of Lace. yoke and then a full skirt to ft, beginning at the top of the shoulders. The under material was rose pink cashmere that cost 50 cents a yard. It formed one cape, and was simply bound with narrow white rib- bon, such as you buy for 30 cents a bolt. Over this pink, there was a second cape of very fine white silk mull. The two capes were made exactly alike, except that the vhite one was about two inches shorter and had a fine knife plaiting of the mull all around it, falling to the edge of the pink. There was a double ruffle of the mull at the neck, which had six rows of baby- pink ribbon on it, and long wide mull ties with the pink baby ribbon across the ends. ‘There were big butterfly bows of pink satin ribbon on the shoulders, and the pink and white were caught together around the yoke with six tiny rosettes of the baby ribbon. You see, any girl who is handy with her needle can make such a cape, using any color she likes. But ff you try to buy such a confection you will have to Remarkably Elegant. Fay $15 for it, and get off cheap at that. ‘The same idea would work out exquisitely in white broadcloth, 3 ladies’ cloth, for.an opera or wip, and then the linings might be satin, th satin ruffles. A pretty and inexpensive wrap, which will adapt igself to most street colors in gowns and that would look well on all oc- casions, it be made of green cloth, and if you are ‘Foun enough ‘to stand ‘it it wouid be remarkably pretty lined with red silk. But iftyoufhave crow’s feet refrain, and line the cape with black silk and trim it with black bourdon and black ribbons. Surplice Effect in Velvet. It would be remarkably stylish en suite if you were to line it with cream moire and trim with cream lace. In that case use green ribbon for ties. Triple capes are quite as much in favor this season as last, but there is a slight difference in the style. The ripple has gone and each cape fits almost smoothly over its mate, each having its edge bordered with a band of ribbon, braid and later with fur. Two capes are also seen, but the top one is usually of lace, falling very full over the shoulders. Of course, it is tied with long, wide ribbons. Everything has ribbons —dresses, wraps, skirts; you are not in fashion at all unless you have a lot of ribbous fiying to get into your coffee at the table or to catch on a man’s umbrella as he enters the car. For a slender figure there is a most charming garment that is half coat, half cape. It has a body like a coat and Is re- markebly elegant when made of watered silk or satin—black, of course—and trimmed with handsome lace and jetted passemen- terle. That makes a costly wrap, however, and it 1s quite as pretty, if not as elegant, when made of some soft, dark woolen ma- terial or ladies’ cloth and trimmed in lace. The wing-like sleeves,which are open under- neath, when put on over the large dress sleeves, give an appearance of breadth to narrow shoulders and must be avoided by the woman who is sensitive about her size. A_pleasing style of cape has the surplice effect in front. The design is of light tan covert cloth with black velvet ribbon trim- ming. The bands in front are of black ve vet, lined with black silk. Everywhere I go I am told by fashion purveyors that black velvet will be much worn this winter for capes and coats. Black velvet is capable of most artistic treatment and effects, and now that silk velvet Is overshadowed by the production of fine cotton velvets that have the ap- pearance of the Lyons qualities, there will probably be an eruption of black velvet toilets that will make an artistic eye ache. An elegant cape-that is kept under lock and key as yet fits the shoulders perfectly down almost, to the elbows, and has long tab ends that come to the feet, heavy with jetted fringe, Just above the elbows it suddenly flares and ts bordered with van- dyke points all of eight inches deep. It 1s lined with ivory liberty silk, and from un- der those long points falls a double ruffle of accordeon plaited Mberty silk. On the shoulders are the inevitable ribbon bows of white moire. That cape will create a sensa- tion when it sees daylight, for its owner is given to elegant gowning, and the mo- diste told me:that the particular gown to be worn with that wrap was something su- perb beyond description. It must be, as no amount of coaxing would get one from her. A long serviceable garment that comes nearly to the knees is made in the military style, of covert cloth or in some pretty k cheviot and is much used when traveling or for trips to the woods, It is often bright- ened by lining it with a soft plaid in many colors, and the hood ts lined with the same. For young girls this cape is remarkably becoming. IW. B. FASHIONABLE GLOVES. The Favor te Hand Coverings for Winter Months, From the Philadelphia Press. Now that summer gowns are being washed and folded carefully away, it 1s also time for the white and yellow chamois gloves to be put aside, and with the cloth gowns that replace the well-worn summer serge and covert cloth should be worn the heavy dogskin gloves. In these gloves the darkest red, or “ox blood,” will be a favorite color. They are sewed with black, have broad bands of black stitching on the back and are bound with black kid across the top. The buttons on these gloves vary in size from a quarter to five-eighths of an inch in diameter. The larger size are the most fashlonable, and are generally of white or black bone. In length those gloves are preferred that have no gap between the sleeve and the glove. This brings into favor more than ever the mousquetaire. Then, too, the four- button and five-button, and even six if small buttons are preferred, are much in vogue. These shades come also tn two- button gloves, which a great many prefer for a shopping glove, as they are not so much trouble to put on and off. There 1s little change other than length, which, as I said before, is insisted on more strongly this season than for several pre- vious winters, in the fashion of the gloves for calling and theater-going Undressed kid, with loud sewed seams, small buttons and inconspicuous stitching on the back, seem to be most favored for evening wear, but glace kid is coming rapidiy into favor again, and will be worn this winter to a considerable extent, especially with silk gowns. A glace glove can be worn with anything, and is much more preferable when a glove is wanted to “match” the gown, Mode and fawn shades are taking the place of the tans that have been con- sidered the thing par excellence for so many seasons and hav: been popular for so long a time. All sorts of novelties are to be seen in evening gloves, as usual, and they are, as always, those expensive luxuries that a truly refined taste shuns. Tops with van- dykes, butterflies and other fancy lace de- signs set in, top embroldered in steel, jet and bronze beads end innumerable other patterns in tops are all to be had for the price, but, as ail our women know, are not good taste. An evening glove matching the gown tn tone, plainly’ stitched on the back with the same shade and fitting perfectly, is the thing to be desired. It is generally neces- sary to have evening gloves made to order if they correspond in shade and coloring with the gown, but if one cannot afford this then plain white suede cannot be bettered and can never look amiss, Now that our girls are so enthustastle over out-door sports, there must be gloves for these occasions as well, and the makers have proved themselves equal to the occa- sion There are glov: for the bicycling girl, gloves for the girl who rides horse- back and drives, gloves for the one who en- joys skating and goasting and gloves for all the gtrls, whatever may be their fad. For the one who rides horseback there ts the always popular gauntlet, in all the col- orings that habits can be made in—dark green, dark blue, brown, tan and black are all obtainable The back 4s stitched or braided in corresponding or contrasting colors. For those who are preparing for the ice and snow the fleece-lined, fur-topped and the colored chamois are provided. So, if anybody's get-up is not a perfect en- semble it is not the fault of the glove maker. ——— +2 ‘The Opal fs in Favor. From the Manufacturing Jeweller. Even the superstitious are regarding the opal with favor. This must be due to the fact that 1t {s now a gem of fashion. Opal pendants, suspended from a fine gold chain, are worn by fashionable women. Opal rings are greatly In vogue and are wonderfully beautiful when combined with diamonds. The fire opal with its iridescent coloring is the gem of the hour. One of the most beautiful combs seen this season is of tortoise shell, with a row of glistening opals set across the top. Side combs to match are set with ~maller opals in the game way. CLEANING HOUSE | iris wesc cet pat tows. tt Senora Sara Chats About This Usually Dolorous Period. ONE OF THE TERRORS OF HOUSEWIVES The Way is Plain When System is Followed. PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. FEW DAYS AGO, I was at the house of a friend, where there ‘were other lady guests, when the con- versation turned upon housekeeping affairs, as ts usually the case when two or three women are guthéred together for any length of time. One of the group was a woman noted for her good manazement and superb housekeeping. She doesn't do any of the work herself. Bless you, no; Her dainty white hands are satin soft, and look as though she might have been one of the lilies of the field, always. But I hap- pen to know that she learned by experience, much assisted by a natural aptitude for housework, all that she knows about It, which is a great deal. One of the ladies, only a recent recruit in the married ranks, yet old enough to have considerable know edge of housekeeping, if she had made any effort to inform herself, which it seems she has not, asked me what I thought to be the best method to go about hgusecleaning. Whether I tore up the whole house at once, or whether I cleaned a room at a time In a leisurely manner. As she seemed to be anxious for information tn detail, I entered into a lengthy description of my w: of Proceeding, end found the ladies all ready to take a hand in the enlightening business; I feel pretty sure that a report of the knowl- edge aired there that afternoon would make &r imposing book. Housecleaning is one of the terrors of every housewife until she learns to econo- mize in strength as in everything else. I have just been through a week's siege of It, and there has been no domestic cataclysm, nor am I a subject for the hospital, though I had to do the major part of the work my- self, I don’t mean that I took down bed- steads and pulled up carpets, or that I lifted the furniture about and did the scrub- bing. ‘That is really the easiest part of the work, It is the planning and adjusting that worrles one; the mending and renovating; the putting away of summer things and un- packing of winter ones. Get Rid of the Rubbish. I always begin to clean house at the top. In the attic, which is the store room for the cast-off things of the year in clothing and furniture. In the course of six months an awful lot of rubbish accumulates there, and at housecleaning is a good time to get rid of it. In a house where there are children there is always considerable cast-off cloth- ing to look over. Some of it will do very nicely to cut over for younger children, and that should be brushed and aired, then folded away in a box kept for that purpose. ‘The garments that are outgrown and ean- not be remodeled should be put in another box, ready to bestow on some worthy per- son less fortunate than yourself. Do not hoard up old garments against Possible need “next year.” If you do not see a possible chance of making use of them in the next six months, put them in the poor box. They will bring you a richer blessing there. Examine the broken furni- ture that has been st ved away. If it can be mended, have it . ne at once, before knocking about has uestroyed the useful- ness of a piece to which you are attached. it you find that it ts too worn and shabby for your own house, perhaps you know some deserving person who is ingenious enough to fix it up, and would be very glad to do so for the gift of it. Otherwise, throw it into the kindling wood heap. There isn’t a particle of rense in cluttering up a house With a lot of useless old rubbi Unless you are sure that a furniture ean be fixed up, it is bad judg- ment to send it to the attic, anyhow. Look over the old papers and magazines, and make a package of those that you do not intend to have bound, to send to the hos- pital, or some such institution, where a bit of reading material is a perfect boon. After sorting over and putting away all the trash in the attic, you will have a heap of litter that it is useless to try to put away. Dump {t on the ash heap, or bribe your scrub woman to relieve you of it. Then sweep and dust and niop out the attic, all ready to receive the stores that will come up from the lower part of the house. It will prob- ably take you a whole Gay to go over the attic properly. If you discover any signs of that terror of the housewife, bedbugs,make war on them at once. A machine oii can of gasoline is a good companion in such an emergency; use it freely on infected spots. It will kill eggs and insects instantly, and evaporates almost as soon as_applied. Do not have a lighted lamp or’ gas around when you use it, though, nor for some time after, unless you have raised the windows and alred the attic. Then Comes the Closets. If you have found moths, take all the infected clothes out into the sunshine. Beat and shake them well, then brush, and if practicable dampen and run a hot fron over them. Moths are the meanest rests that ever got into a house. They do more damage in a day than can be re- paired in a year, and there fs absolutely no way known yet, except vigilance, that will keep them out of woclen clothing and furs. After you have everything cleaned and sweet smelling m the attic, get a pint of sulphur end put in an old iron kettle, and set it over an oil stove or a charcoai fire in the aitic. Close the windows and doors, and let it burn itself out. Then you may be reasonably sure that there are no microbes or bacill! lurking around to descend upon and destroy the family, Be sure and remove all clothing that the sulphur will be apt to discolor. It will injure nothing else. After cleaning the attic, I go through every closet in the house next, and give them the same treat- ment, then I begin on the heuse proper. In cleaning the other rooms of the house, I seldom attempt more than two at once. I select one room on the floor to be clean- ed, that I want for a work rocm, and have the carpets taken up and the furniture covered. Into this room I have all the pic- tures, bric-a-brac and furniture carried and pllec out of harm’s way. The carpets from the two other rooms are carried to be shaken and dusted, and then I have the dusty floors sprinkled with bits of torn paper that have been dampened. When swept, no dust is raised to penetrate other portions of the house. The w: are Swepi down with a broom, over which a flannei cloth ts pinned, ard an application of elbow grease. If there are grease spots, I take them out with an application of pipe clay, made into a paste and applied damp. The grease is generally extracted by the time the clay is dry. Where there are smoke stains from gas or from the register, I have the places rubbed with a rag and corn or oatmeal. This will not remove the smoke stains al- but will as a general thing. 1 have taken such stains off, with a rag saturated with gasoline, but that has to be done very carefully, or y: near the pa- per. , for I never found servants yet, that could be intrusted to do things like that. After the walls are cleaned, the wood work should be washed with ammonia water, or borax if ybu ilke I use borax for everything, because I itke {ts action better. If you have soap used, see that it is not lye soap, because that will take the life out of the paint and make it look dead. It will soon wear off, too, after being washed with strong soap. Carpets and Floors. Then have the floor scoured with good strong lye water—unless It ts stained or oiled, then, of course, you will have it wiped up with hot water only, as anything eise would extract both color and ofl. If you have feared that there might be moths in the edges of the room, the hot water should MI newspapers and ia} on the floor three or four thick 0’ each other. You will find them a little more trouble, but an excellent substitute for felting or floor paper. They protect the carpet from contact with the boards, which would cause it to wear out much faster, and then it makes the floor warmer. I never let my bed room carpets reach to the walls, but stop them at least a foot short of that. It is much easier to keep the edges of the floor free of lint, and there 1s not as much danger of mothe getting in the carpet. I have the foot of floor left bare stained and ofled. You can do it your- self, and I'm sure you will like the effect. If you are handy with your paint brush you can paint the floor in stripes to look like an inlaid floor. It will add to the beauty of the room a great deal. As soon as the carpet is down, examine it closely for spots or rents or worn places. These should all be aitended to before the furniture is put in. The worn places can be mended before the carpet is put down, if you like, but the spots should be left till the carpet is elean- ed and stretched, then, after sweeping, go over the soiled places with gasoline, rub- bing hard. I think you will find no other treatment is necessary. I use gasoline be- cause it is the cheapest and casiest applied fluid that 1 know of. While the carpets are belng put down you can be cleaning the pictures—remove the backs and wash the glass and dust the picture, then clean the frame carefully and hang as soon as the carpets are down. Dust and rub up the chairs, using some sood furniture polish if necessary, or if there are no scars a rubbing with a kero- sene rag and an after polish with a flannel cloth will benefit almost all kinds of wood. Clean the bedstead and other furniture the same way. If there is a suspicion of a bug about your springs or bedstead have them tuken out doors and get a quart of gasoline and a small pitcher. Brush the bedstead and springs well with a broom and then dribble the gasoline along the cracks from the pitcher. Saturate them thoroughly and then jet them stand for an hour, Then give them another dose of the same. Pour the futd copiously over the springs and I think you will find that you will have no trouble from bugs thereafter. Clean everything be- fore you carry it back into the room, and for this purpose you will find the “work room” quite handy. Put up your curtains and draperies the last thing. A Housecleaning Outfit. Some housekeepers do not take up their stair or hail carpets till the lower floor ts reached in process of cleaning, preferring to cover them with linen. I always take mine up the first thing, and wipe up the halls and stairs, for the tramping and dragging of heavy furniture over the carpets wears them out. 4 think that almost any house- keeper, however inexperienced, wili be able to Clean house with the aid of one servant and a man to do the heavy lifting if she will follow the directions I have given. ‘There is nothing accomplished by urying to be thought smart, and doing everything nen lying in bed for a week with & complication of ailments and a doctor's bill inat would have paid the hire of half a dozen servants for six months. There is nothing but discomfort connected with such a procedure. Don’t deiude yourself into thinking that one cleaning a year will suf- fice, no matter how small your family nor how clean you all are. It is the dust and the germs, the microbes and lurking disease that you need to rid the house of. beiore you begin to clean house at all, go over your rooms, and consider carefully what you want to do. If the carpet is worn in the middie, you may rip the breadths and sew the outside edges together, thus making it look almost as good as new, and saving the price of a new one. If the outside | breadths seem to be the only ones fit to use again, you may be able to sew them to- gether rcom, ‘and @ cheap strip of tngrain to make a border. Examine the furniture for loose parts, rubbed spots and broken Places. If the curtains need repairing, do | it before you send them to the cleaners. Make a memorandum of all these little re- | pairs needed, and then sit down and make another to take with you wien you go to purchase suppites for housecleaning. You will want a hitle varnish, of course. Hunt up a bottle that will hold a pint, and have it filled at a repair shop with the varnish ready prepared for use. Then get @ good brush, which you will be careful to ciean and put away for future use. You will want a pint of furniture polish, a pint of walnut stain, a gallon of gasoline, a lit- tle pot of furgiture glue, a pound of puiver- ized borax, good soup, a quart of good, smooth flour paste for mending holes in the wall paper, a box or two of carpet tacks, plenty of twine, a tack hammer and a larger one for driving nails; a pound of nails of various sizes; linen thread for sew- ing carpet; big needies; beeswax; quart of coal oil; half a pint of turpentine; a can of white enamel paint, and a bottle of gild- ing to touch up picture frames and window sash; a big stack of old newspapers—they ccme in handy for everything; lots of old mvsiin, flannel and linen rags, and a quart or two of oatmeal. . It is Really Interesting. This stock of stuff will cost you about $2.50, and will probably be enough to last you through two “spells” of housecleaning. You would be able to get along without a great many of the things mentioned, but you will find that they will all be of great assistance In making your house cleaner, and freshening up your furniture. Of course you can send It to a pro al and have it put in shape, but it will cost a good deal, be no better done, often not so well, and you have the extra troubie besides. If economy is the watehword, you will be pleased to see how much you can ac- complish with a small expenditure of time and labor, with not nearly as much nerve | force exhausted as you will use up in a day or two over a bit of drawn work or a fancy knitting pattern. Instead of being an awful bugbear, housecleaning in a house of eight or ten rooms ought to be a pleasure to a woman who likes to have her reoms bright and comfortable. She can do the work by eas yants, nobody in the house be any wiser. Then she has such splendid opportunities to exercise her talents m renovating and re- newing old furniture to which the family has become attached. Ss ORA SARA. ——_ New Cure for Croup. From the Londen Daily News. Dr. Roux of the Pasteur Institute clatms to have found a cure for croup, that terror of young mothers. It consists, our Paris correspondent sa / im the subcutaneous injection of serum taken from the blood of a horse that has been previously vaccinated With the cultivated microbes of croup. The injection should be made once for all, Soon afier it is made the temperature fails, the srowth of the false me: anes is arrested, in twenty-four hours they begin to peel from the inside of the throat, and in thirty- six hours t larynx is free from the bactli Dr. Roux an his treatment at the Chil- dren's Hospital on February 1, He took there with him a large supply of the serum and inoculated every child he found suffer- ing from croup. The ordinary local and other treatment was continued. Dr. Roux asks us to remember that in the years 180, Is9i, 1802 and IS, out of children treated for croup at the hospital where he experimented, 2.02) died. Since February last, out of 448 children who received the serum injections, 109 died. so — Where Widows Need Uclp to Marry. Trom the London Daily News, According to a vernacular paper in India, & movement in afd of the remarriage of widows among Mussulmans was started wo or three years ago in Kalanam, in the Gurdaspur district. The Mahometan re- ligion does not prohibit the remarriage of widows, but long residence in India and contact with the Hindu has made many Mahometars look down upon remarriage of dows Considerable opposition was at first shown, but it has been overcome. A widow remarri association has been formed, and yubiishes a flourishing weekly paper which disseminates news and information on the objects of the scciety. Over eighty widows have been remarried within the last three years, and the fund started to aid lestitute widows on their remarriage ex ceeds 20,000 rup ae Art of Fiattery, From the Indianapolis Journal, “If you please, mum,” began Mr. Dismal Dawson, “I wish you would gimme some- thing to eat. That there woman next door «imme a handout, but, on the dead, the ff wasn’t fit- “See here,” was the answer he got, “that Woman next door is my mother, and if ou aren't out of here tn less than two uinates, I'll set the dog on you. Now, you wit.” be used freely, and then 4 train of gasoline] Mr. Dawson got. for a square in the middle of the | Stages, and, except the ser- | HOUSEHOLD HINTS An Economical Recipe for Making Vinegar at Home. BATHING FOR FEVER PATIENTS The Question of Housework and Hiring Servants. NOTES FOR THE KITCHEN Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. For a burn, a mother who has often to apply @ remedy to the burned fingers of a umerous brood recommends the following: Apply dry flour to the burn and then bind it up in raw cotton saturated with sweet oll. 7 + © @ «© The vinegar that one buys in the market, though labeled “pure cider,” is often such vile stuff that one cau scarcely use it at ail. Any housewife may make her own vinegar at emall expense, and know that it is perfectly pure. When you are paring apples tor sauce or pastry, wash them well first. This applies to pears, peaches or quinces. Take the parings and cores and put them In a pan of water on the stove and cock till all are tender. ‘Then ‘squeeze the juice through a jelly cloth, and put ft In a wide-mouthed Jar, with a pound of sugar and a gill of good liquid yeast to @ gallon of juice. Let the liquid stand near @ warm stove for a month, the mouth of the jar covered with a thin cloth so that the air can get to the liquid and bugs and flies cannot. By that time you will have @ gallon of splendid vinegar. Pour off a third or more of it in another jar, to settle, and after that add to the first jar the juice from your fruit and paringe every day if you like, pouring off a part of it every week or two, for immediate use. In that way you can keep @ perpetual supply on hand, and you can be sure that it will not €at up ycur pickles or the lining to your stomach, as the gtull that ve buy does. Unless a bath is ordered by the attending physician it ts often the case that bathing @ feverish patient is neglected for days at a time. This ts a sad mistake. If the patient 1s extremely resticss, no matter if the body is right clean, « sponging off in hot water, in which soine borax, soda or ammonia has been put, will often relieve the nervousness and induce sleep, which is So necessary. Have che water at a little higher temperature than blood heat. Sometimes it is more effective if quite bot. Use soft, clean cloth, which is better than Sponge, and rub the skin tll it glows, using as little water as possible, so a8 not to = the bed clothes, ° 7 |, This remedy is sgid to be a certain cure for @ felon, if you apply in time: Take equal parts ‘of gum camphor, gum opium, castile soap and brown sugar. Wet to the consistence of paste with spirits of turpen- | fine and bind on the feion with « soft linen | cloth. 7-2 © © © Hot water softens and spoils the bristles ef hair brushes, so tn cleaning them use cold water and soda. Dicsolve the soda in | the cold water and then shake the brush around in it, rinsing off as soon as the | bristles look clean. Stand the brush up on the end of the handle to dry, and don't put it in the sun or near a hot stove. re ee When dry heat is nesded about the body | mix a thick batter of flour and water and a little baking powder, and fry as you would a@ pancake, baving !t half an inch thick when done. Apply this on a thin cloth, | There ts something about the steamy heat that is particu soothing, and it holds the heat much better than a flannel cloth, Very often the patient catches cold when Wet heat is applied, for tt 1s almost tm- possible to change Wet cloths without some cold air getting to the body. It is not so with the pancake heat. 7. 7 In deeling with servants to whom good weges are given, with comfortable board | and lodgines, ft ts but right to expect in | return competent and faithful work, end those who exact this, under careful over- sight, will not often be disappointed. It is onty the fearful and timid or ignorant mistress that in these days submits to incompetent service. It is her own fault if | she does so, and the remedy is to study up on economic household problems, and make rself mistress of the situation so that she can manage her house and fervants as they should be managed. _ * In 2 small home where pennies count and life's problem seems @iflicult to with an ailing weman to do the work the family, and no room for a girl, the most economical thing to do is to hire the washing and troning done out of the houee, When you come to count the pay and board for service of a girl who must always be looked after it amounts to @ great But when you a pay a dollar and week for the laundering of the clothes and have it done out of the house the worst of the work 1s done, and no worry to you, and no great cost. Even if you have to pay half @ dollar more to get a woman to come and do the sweeping and scrubbing once @ week you come oft winner, 7-2. 8 8 It ts quite the fashionable thing, now, to sit with the legs crossed, just like men— | with a difference. But women who sit that way to Rew or read, or to hold the baby, are not aware, probably, that they are invit- | ing serious physical allments; but it is true, nevertheless. When a man crosses his legs, he places the ankle of one leg on the upper part of the other, where it rests light- ly. A woran, more restricted in her move- ments, rests the entire weight of one limb on the upper purt of the other, and this pressure upon the sensitive nerves and cords, if indulged in fer any continued length of time, as ts often done by ladies who sew and embroider a great deal, will produce disease. Sciatica, neuralgia’ and other serious troubles frequently result from this simple cause. The muscles and nerves in the upper portion of a woman's leg are extremely sensitive, and much of her whole physical structure becomes deranged, if they are overtaxed in the manner referred to. nent physician. ° 7 2 © « A woman who has off ideas about things bakes her bread in tomato cans! The loaves come out round end nice, and make such pretty slices when cut thin -_ ee # Dried beef, that has got a little too ary for table use, can be shredded in fine bits and mixed with egg for an omelet. it makes an appetizing om tr breakfast. If you want a real delicacy in the shape of @ meat dish for breakfast, take kippered herring and dip them in beaten egg, and then in dry bread crumbs and fry in sweet lard or butter. SSS a) REV. L W. HILL, Pastor Methodist Church, Accord, N. ¥. Says Cancerous Diseases m Be Cured. AQCORD, N. *¥.Under Mt was believed that any disease of cancerous growth could never be cured. The surgeon's knife was resorted to, but the old trouble was eure te break out again. Since the discovery of Dr. Kennety"s Favorite dy all this has been chunged-the action of Favorite Remedy upon the system leaves no trace of poison in the blondthe weeds of discase are and lost bealth restored. ble case of the eMency of Dr. David Kea- "s Favorite Remedy ts that of the Rer. 1. W. 1ii] of this town, Some years ago he was euffer- the cid-echool method ing from a cancer of long standing on his Mp and In Ppeaking finally concladed to have tt removed of itis cage Pastor Hill #atd previous to having the opera’ chased Dr. David Kennedy's Pavor! continued taking it for some time after the cancer was removed. ‘Ten long yonre have passed since then and no trace of the ugly thing has returned. I speak with knowledge in the highest torme of Dr. Kennedy's Favorite Remedy as being able te cure the troubles for which tt is prepared.” One of our local physicians said, in explatning the demand for Dr. Kennedy's Favorite Remedy: It acts @s @ nerve and biood food, and to my knowledge it has made many permanent cures of Nervous Debility, Sieeplessness, Dyspepsia, Rbeu- matism, and of the sickness peculiar to women, Where other treatments have fatled. Tor Hend- aches, Constipation and the run-down cundition one ofteu suflers with there ds mothing elec ® good.” At least, this ts the opinion of an emi- ~ _,.