Evening Star Newspaper, April 29, 1893, Page 7

CAPES AND JACKETS. Bome of the Latest Designs for Stylish Spring Wraps. THE BUTTERFLY COLLAR. — Sleeves Are Still to Re Very Large—Tight- Fitting Jackets—The “Bolero” Very Popu- lur—Sultable Colors and Materials—Crino- Hned Skirts—Fashion Notes. ——— Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. New Youx, April 28, 1898. F YOU ARE GOING TO select a wrap I should ad- e aj vise a cape instead of & 1 2 ket. If you have « a jacket already I should cheer you and assure you that jackets really are much worn. The sack- back jackets are modified by clever adjusting of the empire effect in belting in the fullness py strips of embroidered galloon set just below the shoulders and coming to a point at the collar. In the point thus made is set a full fall of Ince, or fan of silk, or a big bow of rib- bun with lon That is one way of doing it. If the jacket is light you will use either black or cream ince. If it is dark you will make the best of it and use biack lace that is heavily embroidered with colors or that is even tinceled. For very slender people queer little jackets are mado that hang in the back the way the Greek tunic used to hang nt. The whole thing ix a sort of box pleat, the middle of it be- ing shorter than at t . and itis, of course, ery loose. Such a made of material to match the dre: is usually part of a really elaborate theater or carriage costume. Now and then ther are made of a rich piece of India embroidered goods. and lined with thin India silk of some very bright color. The sleeves are only another pair of box pleats that hang short on the top of the arm. and are long and away from it below. Of course, such sleeves will accommodate any size puff. Juckets tight fitting and finished with the “buttertly” collar are turned out by the thou- i sold at such low figures that they © failto be very common. The mode is not particularly becoming, the butterfly collar making one seem short-necked and narrow- shouldered. Jnckets are mostly either half- way to the knee or quite to the knee. The little short jacket, so_nobby looking a season ago, is no longer stylish. ends. fe over, the puffs beneath. bat ther won't e only sleeves that will = do this are the box pleat kind, which I have men- tioned, and another sort which are really only exaggerated epnulettes at the shoulders, the seam under the arm opening some distance down and so enlarging the arm hole and clos- ing with hooks and eves, buttons or ribbons to tie. The epaulette fails loose to about the A MODISH CAPE. there is a lower sleeve that goes on ver the hand. It is fastened by a elbows con} to the arm may be sewed in peru: this sleeve, epaulette eff like any modish sleeve. BOLEKO JACKETS Of all kinds are shown in such profusion that one does not know what to say about sently. When adjusted t and all, is not un- them. Most of them are hardly more than | @ pair of sleeves held together by « flaring collar. Others are really a protection as well as an accessory, and are made of bright- colored velvet, pufie? <leeved and double Dreasted. These are as pretty things us can be worn with roft muslins. They seem more part of the costume with which they are worn, how- ever, than x jacket. Some jackets in’ mode color cloth and black are pretty much like a section of a Mother Hubbard cut off Aness or just above, and they are quite as ugly as they sound, even though the sleeves be made s0 elaborate as to obscure the rest. A few very aswell jackets flare at the bottom and have enor- Moas rever siceves. They make the average little plump woman look like some fearful and wonderful new kind of bug, while the slender and tall girl is—well, impressive, to say the least of it, A PRETTY BOLERO. The pretty garment of the initial is tight fitting back and front, and has a rolling shaw! collar with revers. The back is cut in one and fpined to the side backs, « narrow braid coy ing the sevm. A pleated piece is inserte the bottom and reaches to the waist line. The Jacket bus a sbor:capeabout fifteen inches wide sewed to the Jacket in the back, but loose in front, and Ini! in box pleats all the way around, Itecan be lined with changeable or plaid silk and trimmed with three rows of machine stitching around the bottom, down the fro on the cuffs of the sleeves andalso on the collar and cape. The edges are finished with a narrow braid. The sleeves are quite full, are also lined with silk, and the braid is sewed on at the wrist to imitate a cuff. The jacket fastens in front with small buttons, an extra piece being sewed on for buttozholes. ‘The young lady's cape next shown is made of ¢loth and is finished with machine stitching. It hax a large box pleat behind and the second smaller cape is gathered around the neck and sewed to the lower one. If desired the cape ean be lined with thin silk and edged with fancy braid. As already hinted, these capes are Just the correct thing at present. This bolero jacket is to be worn on warm spring days as a substitute for beavier capes and mantles and is made of dark blue cloth. It ts quite short and embroidered with green silk metal threads, The fronts turn back, forming revers. ‘The latter as well es the shawl collar are embroidered. It is lined with sili. Neither lace, feather nor flower boas are the right thing in summer. The lace ix apt to look stringy in less than no time, the flowers are scratchy aud the feathers too much like winter, beside being dreadfully warm. The iuestion has been solved, however. A scarf yat balfayard wide and long enough to reuch nearly tothe hem of the drest is edged with feathers set on thickly and softly, the quills being covered, bidden and kept from seratching bya pufling of the crepe. Crepe and feathers match ae nearly as possible. Such @ scart is every bit as becoming as the feather | bon, fadeed it is moce so to short-necked folk, and it is as pretty in itsclf, besides being neither too warm to wear nor seratchy. One more ad- vantage, if your winter boa has grown shabby and you have infinite patience, you can use the feathers that are leftand border a scarf for yourself. It will need more patience than you will think when you begin. FoR THE CARRIAGE. ‘The first full-length picture is a costume in- tended to be worn as a carriage dress, and is made of dotted silk ina light shade. It-may have a basque of the silk or a blouse, as is shown in the illustration. The skirt requires six or seven breadths of silk and the seams of the back breadths are biased on both sides; the front breadths are ozly biased on the side joined to the back and the other seams are curved *o that the skirt will fit «nugly over the hips. The back may be gathered to the waist- band or Inid in two deep box pleats. The skirt is lined with silk and has @ flounce of silk on the mside. The blouse has a tight-fitting lining and hooks in the center. It has a V-shaped plastron in front of the silk used in the skirt. The back and front are cut rather full, so that the blouse bangs over a trifle, and a draw string confines it at the waist. It has x broad rever-like shawl collar of velvet lined with silk. The sleeves are tight, and havo a large puff trimmed with a bias fold of velvet at the top. The cuffs are plain. This charming costume is completed by a toque of pink crepe de chine, having a fluted brim edged with jet trimming. The crown is shirred and three tips are placed in front. The tie strings are pink mibbon. THREE-QUARTERS LENGTH JACKET. The last illustration brings us to a pretty costume, with which @ jacket is worn, which fasteus in the center underneath a box pleat, wider at the bottom than at the top. The back is also laid into a box pleat held down, if neces- sary. by an ornament of passementerie. In front, reaching to the «ide seam on both sides, isa yoke of the same material, covered with black guipure lace, having the form of a short Spanish jacket. The ends. fall over each other GFacefuliy. The sleeves are plain and hav epaulettes of gathered lace. This jacket of grayish lavender cloth. ‘The skirt showing below has the new funnel shape. It is lined with silk and stiffened with buir cloth to about twenty inches from the bottom and clears the ground. The back breadths are gathered and the front is plain and tight over the hips... The -kirt is trimmed with bias folds of dark Iavender velvet, edged with slightly gathered raffles of lace. “The inside also has a gathered Ince ruffle and the bottom is finished with braided silk cord. SKIRTS. With regard to skirts it is now said that crin- oline and wires will ouly be used where a lack of efficiency on the part of the dressmaker makes her unable to accomplish the required flare by more artistic means. According to these authorities only very foolish folk ar@ put- ting crinoline intu the dresses themselves as part of the lining. The way is to insert one or two erinoliued ruffles. These can be renewed and will need it almost us often as the lately ued and so pretty silk raftles did. The effect of the gown with erinoline inserted in_ the i +r one good wetting about the hem, can be better imagined than described. CRAZE. With Rich and A gown with any pretensions at all must acknowledge its supremacy. In fuct, ‘tis almost better not to be a gown than to be a gown without a guarantee of good birth ina certificate of satin. And on that basis there is 4 wonderful aristocracy among dresses in that queer, ever-changing government of fashion. For, let it be said without exaggeration, nine of every ten costumes one meets at wedding, funeral. country or christening are stamped with the seal of satin. Not always extremely noticeable, of course, since tiny pipings or a single fold for protector at the bottom of a skirt is sufficient to insure prestige. Neverthe- less, ruffles of satin ribbon and shell plaitings of the same. seattered with blind lavishnese on the available portions of a gown, are the ac- cepted signs of supreme might. me rabid revolutionists declare that these Tampant ruchings divide 4 woman into sections and cloy the sight, but such mutierings are not to be feared from so small a minority. A case in point walked down the street today. She wore a gown of heliotrope, gray and dark grim green. The skirt, of gray striped with heliotrope silk. fell straight to the knees. There it was cut off and acrosswise piece was plaited deepiy and sewed on under the first of three rows of shell ruching in green satin ribbon. ONE OF THE ARISTOCRATS. Around the bottom of the plaiting was another | band. The round waist was belted with it, and a deep V came low on the bust and reared itself over the shoulders. The collar was made of ruching and the double puff sleeves carried it, too. A minor consideration was a pair of lace bretelles tucked into the belt. There were four others not unlike this gown on the same block. Satin fs never a staple | fashion, but jast now, like the poor, it is very | much with us. HORSFORD’S ACID PHOSPHATE, If you are Nervous, ‘and cannot sleep, ary it. THE. EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D. C. SATURDAY, APRIL 29, 1 893—SIXTEEN PAGES. 7 STARS AND STRIPES. | Tnoidents in the History of Our National Emblem. pe ae THE FLAG OF FREEDOM. It Has Reached the Farthest Points in the Frozen Seas and Has Traversed Every Quarter of the Globe—There Was Never an Emblem Like It. —+—__ HE HAULING DOWN of the American fing at Hawaii and the hoisting of the original stars and stripes on the Jer- sey highlands has set everybody to talking about the flag. The same of which Lafay- ette said in 1786: “Our dear, noble stars and and glory have been constant standard bearers.” There never was an emblem like the Amer- ican flag, because no other flag on earth ever meant so much to its people, It is essentially “the flag of free hearts, hope and home,” and the people of a free land adore it according! ‘The trail down the history of time is set thick with mile posts and memorial stones where the shadow of the flag has fallen,’ some- times to succor the fainting, often to shroud a hero's form. Here its shreds mark the far north limit where its folds Kissed the arctic icebergs, and in the orient tradition tells of the “flower flag” of the free that oue day lifted its rainbow radiance against the sky in the parts of the celertial kingdom, cau wondering comment. Although Congress adopted the design for the flag in June of 1777, the official order to that effect wax uot proclaimed until on Sept. 3. Fight days later the battle of Brandywine was fought, September 11,1777, and the stars and stripes floated for the first time as a legally con- stituted national emblem above a British vic~ ory. It wax a humiliating precedent, seldom observed since. That was not the first military incident con- nected with the fing. howe From the hour that Congress adopted the design flags multi- plied upon the earth. The troops in Fort Stanwix, later known as Fort Schuyler, were without a natic ensign. On August the y appeared before them and Ingenious minds inside the beleaguered fort to work and manufactured a flag on the pla announced by Congress, The whito stripes Were cut from the ammunition shirts of the sol- ered was pieced up from the stray articles of scarlet clothing and the blue field was made from a camfet cloak ¥aid to have been captured from the enemy at Peekskill. It Was a curious mosaic, and it ix a thousand pities that the flag was not preserved, Evidently the mania for “relics” hal not then developed. ‘The men who were making history were 60 €1 grossed in the business in hand that th had no thought for the picturesque or artistic features of the fight they were waging. FRANCE FIEST RECOGNIZED US. France was the first foreign nation to recog- nize the power of the “United Colonies of America” and gave the first naval salute to the star spangled banner on February 15, 1778, when ti Ranger, Paul Jones, sailed through the Fre tin the French y Quiberon. The of alliance with the first trea! the new republic with a foreign power, had been «igned in Paris on February 6, just nine days before. at Britain was made to feel the power of the sturs and stripes at sca ina different way a few weeks before the French episode, On . 1778, the American sloop-of-war ¢ took possession of the little Bahama w Providence. The sailors liberated y An ns Who bad escaped from British prison ships and rnn up the American flag above Fort Nasa, ‘They captured a big gunship which was a British prize, spiked the guns of the fort, carried the arms and ammu- nition on board the Providence and, after hold- ing the foreign isiand two days and frightening away the British sloop that came to invext the fort, the Americans put to sea, first burning the ‘two prizes. That marks the first date of the American flag dying above a foreign port. The Political Magazine of London tells what consternation the stars and stripes created in England: “The ship Bedford, Capt. Moores, belonging to sachusetts, arrived in the Downs on the 3d. of Februar: Gravesend the 3d, and was reported at the cus- tom house on the 6th instant, She was not al- wed regular entry until some consultation had } ers of the Jon account of the many acts of parliament in force against the rebels of America, She was loaded with 487 butts of whale oil, it American built, manned wholly by American seamen, wears the rebel coloré aud belongs to the Island of Nantucket in Massachusetts, This is the first vessel which has displayed the thirteen rebellious stripes of ica in any British port.” stripes bad appeared on British soil before that, howev In the “Life and Reminixcences of Eikanah Watson,” who was a, noted philanthropist and sturdy patriot of Philadelphia, the following incident is related. It is of interest because it’ is probably the first authentic painting of the flag: At the close of the revolutionary. struggle, having on the occasion of Lord Howe's relief of Gibraltar received 100 guineas, the result of a wager, and the same day dining with Cople: the painter, he resolved to devote that sum toa portrait of himself. ‘The paintjng was finished all but the background, that bag reserved by Copley to represent a ship bearing to America the intelligence of the acknowledgment of in- dependence——a rising sun gilding the stars and stripes of the new-born nation stream- ing from her gaff. All was completed save the flag, which the painter di not esteem prudent to insert, as his gallery was a constant resort of ‘the royal and nobility. ‘I dined with the artist,’ Watson, ‘on the glorious 5th of December, 2, after listening with him to the speech of the king formaliy receiving and recognizing the United States of America as one of the nations of the earth. Previous to dining and immediately after our return from the house of lords Copley invited us into his studio, and then and there, with a bold hand and master touch and American heart’—the painter was Mr. John Singleton Copley of Boston—attached to the ship the stars and stripes. Thus, while the words of acknowledgment were Still warm from the king's lips, the late rebel, but hence- forth free colors. were displayed in his own kingdom and within a few rods of his own island ome tw 1783, passed INTO THE CHINESE SEA. Preble says that the first vessel to carry the stars and stripes into the Chinese sea was the ship Empress, Capt. Green, She sailed from New York on the 22dof February, 1784—Wash- ington’s birthday. ‘When the thirteen stripes and stars first appeared at Canton it is said that much curiosity was excited amon, people,” says Preble. “News was circulated that a strange ship had arrived from the farther ond of the world bearing a fing as benutiful as a flower. Everybody went to see the kow-kee- cheun, or ‘flower flag ship.’ This name at once established itself in the la and America is now called Kow-kee-kob, the flower fiag country, and an American Kow-kee-koch-yin, flower flag countrymen. * * Foreign names, however unmeaning originally,when written in Chinese acquire a significance which is often strikingly curious. Thus two Chinese charac- ters, Youg-kee (Yankee), signify ‘The flag of the ‘ocean,’ and Washington, or Wo-shung-tung, as it would be written, signifies *Kescue and glory at last” ‘The flag was first carried to Japan by the ship Franklin of Salem, Capt.James Devereaux. He reached Japan July 19, 1799. His log book is in the Eesex Institute at Salem. ‘The stars and stripes circumnavigated the globe the first time in 1789-90 on the ship Columbia, Capt. Gray. The Columbia river ‘wus so named for this “globe-trottit It had many curious encounters, aud was struck in commemoration of them. The Washington of Nantucket, Capt. Geo. Banker, displayed the starsand stripes in a Spanish port the first time on July 4, 1792, in the harbor nt Callao in Peru. On August 15, 1794, when Mr. Monroe, as United States minister to presented his credentials he was receit with the “fraternal kiss” by the citizen president and loud acclamations by the audience. It was decreed at this meeting that the colors of the French and American republics should be hi ‘at the vault of the hall “asa sign of alliance and union.” Mr. Monroe to do honor to this fraternal feeling bad astand of American colors carefully arranged, which he ted sciors, ibe dewt over, presented to a fervign colors, er a nation by the United States, were received with ‘the highest honors. ‘The Constitution, “Old Ironsides,” launched | planted the in October 21, 1797, was the first of the new navy to float the flag with fifteen stripes and fifteen stare, and she carried it to Tripoli and fiag over Fortress Derne in 1805, the tiret time the stars and stripes ever waved above au old world fortress. The ship Aun of Boston, Capt. Daniel Saw- {tt carried the first Ameriean flag into Smyrna 1797. In 1797 a small schooner, the name of which has been forgotten, was ‘launched on Lake Erie, the firs: vessel ‘to invade the great lake chain under the American flag. In 1800 the Washington, Capt. William Bainbridge, anchored under the wails of Constantinople’ and flung out the star spangled banner. The nationality of the vessel ¥ns reported to the authorities and they re- lied that their government. hed. never heard of the United States of America as a nation. Matters were explained and when the sultan learned that the ship came from the “New World of Columbus" he sent on board » lamp anda bouquet of flowers as tokens of amity and welcome. IN THE ANTARCTIC CIRCLE. In 1839 the Flying Fish of the United States exploring expedition, a boat hardly as large as some of the whales she encountered. carried the stars and stripes farther south and pene- trated the antarctic circle farther than any other nation had everexplored. In 1840 Wilkes lanted the flag on the antarctic continent and Tn'the same sonr the United Statos. schooner Shark carried the American flag on its first trip through the Straits of Magellan. ‘The flag was first carried to China round the Cape ot Good Hope in 1844 on the schooner Madras, from New York, Capt. Was. Poor. ‘The flag first made its appearance in the West Indies in 1845 on the ship Edith of Bos- ton, Capt. George Lewis. The first man to raise the stars and stripes in California was Capt. James P. Arther, @ native of Holland and res- ident of Plymouth, Mass. Preble says of this incident: “Capt. Arther was up and down the coast of California as early as 1825, * * * but the exploit above referred to was performed in 1829, when Mr. Arther was em- ployed as mate of the ship Brookline. Mr. Arther and his little party were sent ashore at San Diego to cure hides. They had a barn- like structure of wood, provided by the ship's carpenter, which answered the purposes of store house, curing shop and yesidence. The life was lonesome enough. Upon the wide expanse of the Pacific they occasionally discerned adistant ship. Sometimesa vevsel sailed near the lower offing. It was thus that the idea of pre- paring and raising a fing for the purpose of attracting attention occurred to them. The flag was manufactured from some shirts, and Capt Arther writes, with the just accuracy of a historian, that Mr, Greene's calico shirt fur- nished the blue, while he furnished the red and white. ‘It was completed and raised on a Sun- day,on the occasion of the arrival of the schooner Washington, Capt. Thompson, of the Sandwich Islands, but sailing under the Ameri- can flag. It was in the latter part of the year 1829,’ writes Capt. Arthe An ineident of the flag raising in California, like unto that in Hawaii, but one that has been infrequent in American history, is_ related by Mr. Preble. He says: “In 1942 Commodore Jones of the United States navy, under the impression that the United States were at _war with Mexico, took forcible possession of Mon- terey. hoisted the stars and stripes and_pro- claimed California a territory of the United States. Discerning his mistake the following day he hauled down the flag and made such apology ax the circumstances would admit.” Gen. John C, Fremont, “the pathfinder,” was the first to carry the flag across the continent in 1845-46.and planted it over his headquarters when he and his followers proclaimed the indv- pendence of California on July 4, 1846. clared war against Mexico. ‘Three days Inter the stars and stripes were raised above the gov- ernor’s palace in Monterey and on the 8th of July on the flagstaff in the plaza in San Fran- cisco, hitherto sacred to the red and yellow flag of Spain. In 1848 Lieut. Lynch explored the region of the River Jordan and Dead sea, carrying with him two small boats, the Fanny Mason and the Fanny Skinner, to launch upon the water, upon which the natives declared it was certain death to venture. He writes: “Friday, March 31, 1848.—Hoisted ont the two Fannies and landed our effects. Pitched our tents for the first time upon the beach without the walls of Haifa, * * * For the first time, perhaps, without the consular pre- cts the American flag has been raised in ralestine, About the Ist of April the party reached Ti- berias, on the shore of the blue Galilee. Lieut. Lynch writes: ‘April 8, 1848, —Took all hands up the moun- tains to bring the boats down, Many times we thought that, like the herd of swine, they would rush precipitately into the wea. * '* * With flags flying we carried them triumphantly be- youd the walls uninjured, and, amid a crowd of spectators, launched them upon the blue waters of the Sea of Galilee, the Arabs singing, clay ping their hands to the time and erying for ackshish, but we neither shouted nor cheered; from Christian lips it would have sounded like profanation, A look upon that lake ever brought to remembrance the words, ‘Peuce! bo still.” “Buoyantly floated the two Fannies, bearing the stars und stripes, the noblest flag of freeéom now waving. Since the times of Josephus and the Romans no vensel of any size has salied upon this sea. ON THE DEAD SEA. On the 19th of April the Fannie Skinner en- tered the Dead sea, and for the first time the emblem of freedom floated above these waveless waters. On the 28th that flag bung sadly at half-mast, when the news reached the party of the death’of ex-President John Quincy Adams, and over the echoless sea the dull boom of the national salute—twenty-one guns—thundered the last tribute of respect in that far country to the memory of the new nation’s honored dead. A few days later the stars and stripes were car- ried defiantly and undisturbed into the streets of Damascus, though surrounded by howling mob. A little later the flag was unfurled for the first time “over agains? the hills that en- compass the city of Jeruslem,” and entered into Jaffa, the Joppa of the ancients. ‘The American flag was planted on the walls of Chapultepec for the first time on September 13, 1847. It was the flag of the Voltigeurs of Baltimore, and tattered and battle rent it reste today inthe possession of the state of Ken- tucky. The first American standard raised in the City of Mexico was presented to the South Carolina volunteers by the city of Charleston, December 24, 1846. The banner was of blue silk bearing the coat of arms of the state on one side aud the United States arms anda Imetto tree on the other with an appropriate mmacription, At the battle of Churabusco the color bearer was killed. A report of the Sen- ate committee fully detailed the hoisting of this flag above the palace in the City of Mexico. ‘The flag came gloriously back to Charleston and was burned in the state house on February 1 5. in April of1848, on the 11th day, Liout, Stone of the United Statesarmy ascended tothe crater of mighty Popocatapetl, the second highest mountain in North America, and there planted the American flag nearly 18,000 feet above sea vel In May «party of adventurous army and navy officers ascended Mount Orizaba, which is nearly, if not quite as high, as Popocatapetl. They constructed a flag before ascending and at that immense height left it flying to mark the before unequalled feat. This was ao patchwork affair made of the shirts ef the sailors’ red and blue, the white of an officer's shirt, and had only thirteon stare. The party sat up all night before the ascent to make it. The New Orleans Delta in speaking of this at the time said: “‘On the highest pinnacle of the frozen summit of Orizaba waves the star spangled banner! So you may tell Mr. Polk and his cabinet, and all Congress assembled, that they may pass what laws they please, make treaties and the Mexicans issue pronun- ciamentoes, but still will the At pull it down?” ‘A touching incident concerning related by the Italians. In May, the Italian tri-colored banner, G Red for the patriot's blood. ireen for yr's crown, Gira es i Semana 1s, ‘when course of the ceremonies of the troop called: “Attention! Honor to the of the United States of America!” the closed tof Sel carrying the ae seers, rying banner. WRAPPED AROUND HIS BODY. Of the Strain Darien exploring expedition. which ended so disastrously in 1854, the fol- lowing is condensed from Mr. Headly’s story: “Thorough it all.” he says, “our flag was sacredly ed. A man’ by the name of MeGinness had wrapped it round his body, the ouly emblem of the nationality of the party that remained to them. They had thrown away blankets, weapons and haversacks, but saved the colors. They were wounded aud their ulcerated sores needed bandages, but the fing was too sacred for such impious usage. When on their way to the small boats that rescued them Lieut. Strain asked for the flag lay [e- to be placed in his boat that he might dis it as they approached the rescuing ship. Ginnoss hesitated and bis eyes filling with tears he said, ‘Capt. Strain, I have never parted with the ensign a single instant since you intrasted it to my care on the Atlantic coast. Don't take it from me now!” * Whereupon the noble fellow was told to dis- play it himself. Trembling and weak, his skel- eton hands unbound it from under rags that scarcely hid his nakedness and flung its tattered folds upon the wind, while three cheers went up from the fleet. Mr. Headly adds, ‘There is a whole poem in this little incident; that “flag had been displaved when they marched from the beach of Caledoma bay; it was uarolled to announce their deliverance. In 1854 Dr. Kane planted the flag on the land nearest to the north pole then discovered, *‘the first flag that ever waved over that solitude.” ‘This flag was the one that was planted in the an- tarctic region first and later had circumnavigated the globe on the Columbia. In 1861 Dr. Hayes of the arctic expedition of 1860, which sailed from Boston, planted the American flag yet further north than ever before. This flag, too, lins a history. On the 4th of March, 1861, Dr. Hayes, then in the hitherto unexplored regions of the north, hoisted this flag in honor of the inauguration of President Lincoln, although no news had reached them of Lincoln's elec- tion, and they did not know it surely until August 14 of i861, when they were returning. Dr. Hayes simply had faith that Lincoln would be elected. ‘The flag was made for the pur- pose and had only eighteen stars because there was uot enough material to make more. When they learned five months later that Lincoln had been elected and inaugurated they learned also that their flag had anticipated history a little and that only eighteen states were ut that time left in the Union. ‘The Associated Press gave the following nar- rative of the raising of the American flag over her new possessions: The formal transfer and delivery of Russian America to the Umted States government took place on the 8th of No- vember, 1867, Capt. Festrohoff acting on be- half of the Russian government and Maj. Gen. Rousseau acting on bebalf of the United States. At3 o'clock p.m. a battalion of United States troops under command of Maj. Chas. 0. Wood of the ninth infantry was drawn up in line in front of the governor's residence, where the transfer took place. By 3:30 a large concourse of people had assembled, comprising Ameri- cans, Russians of all classes, Creoles and In- dians, all eager to witness the ceremonies. UNFURLED IN ALASKA. Precisely at the hour named the Russian forts and fleet fired salntes in honor of the lowering of the Russian flag; but the flag would not come down. In lowering it tore its entire width close by the halliards and floated from the crosstrees, some forty feet from the ground. Three Russian sailors then attempted to as cend the inch and a half guy ropes supporting the flagstaff, but each failed to reach his national emblem. A fourth ascended in a boatswain’s chair, seized the flag and threw it ina direction directly beneath him; but the motion of the wind carried it off and caused sensation in every heart, Five minutes after lowering the Russian flag the stars and stripes went gracefully up, floating handsomely and free, Mr. George Lovell Roussea having. the honor of flinging the tlag to the breeze and the United States steamers Ossipee and Resaca simultaneously honoring the event with a national salute. As the Ruasian flag was lowered Capt. Festrehoff stepped forward aud addressed Gen. Rousseau as follows: General: As commissioner of his imperial majesty, the Emperor of Russia, I now trans- fer and deliver the territory of Russian Amer- iea, ceded by his majesty to the United States.”” Gen. Rousseau, in response, as the American flag ascended, said: : joner on behalf of the States government, I receive and accept ame accordingly.” The commissii ke in a tone of com- mon conversation. * * Several Indies wit nessed the ceremony, among them the Prin- ceus Makesatoff, who wept audibly as the Rus- sian flag went down, The transfer was con- ducted in a purely diplomatic and business like manner, neither banquets nor speech- ing foliowing. The entire transaction was concluded ina few hours. ‘The Ossipee, with the commissioners on board, steamed into the harbor at 11 o'clock this forenoon, and at 4 o'clock in the afternoon « dozen American flags float over the newly born American city of Sitka.’ The first acquisition of territory ever made by the United States by s:mply taking — sion was accomplished ir. 1868, The Midway Islands, about half way from the Sandwich Islands'to Japan, were talen possession of on order from the Navy Department by Capt.Wm. Reynolds of the Lackawauna. He went on the shores of the uninhabited islands, which lie a mile apart, and raised the stir spangled banner on the highest point of land, while the Lacka- wanne fired the national salute of twenty-one guns. The reason for taking possession of these islands is of interest at this timo. They are coral reefs, each about a mile and a halt long and nearly a mile wide. ‘They are devoid of vegetation except darubs and grass, but abound in springs of fresh water. The naval department thought that with small expense these islands could be pro- visioned and acoaling station established there, zo that vessels plying between San Francisco and Japan could replenish their stores of food, water and fuel at this point, rather than a Honolulu, It seemed at that time that the port could be made much safer than the one on Hawaii. Congress appropriated $50,000 for this purpose in 1869, but it was only a drop in the bucket, and the project was abandoned. THE FIRST OF AMERICAN BUNTING. ‘The last spike was driven im the rail on the Union Pacific railway on the top of the Conti- nental divido on Friday, August 7, 1868, and in commemoration of the stupendous engineering feat being accomplished, a monument was erected and on that day dedicated with solemn coremony, the stars and stripes being flung to the breeze from the top of the pile. ‘This flag was made of American bunting, and was one of the first true American flags. For nearly ninety years the American flag had been in existence; yet it was made of English bunting, imported for the purpose. On the 23d of February, 1866, the Associated Press said: “On the’ 2ist of February the Hon. Benjamin F. Butler introduced to the officers of the Senate Mr. D. C. Farrington, agent of the United States Bunting Company at Lowell, Mass., who presented to them, for the use of the Sea- ate, a magnificent flag’ manufactured by that company, twenty-one feet fly by twelve hoist, It is believed tobe the first real American flag ever raised over the Capitol of the United States. Heretofore all our flags have been manufactured from English bunting, and every effort made to substitute a domestic texture capable of resisting the wind and air signally failed. Gen. Butler, having ascertained this fact at the Navy Department and feeling an interest in the United States Bunting Company of his town, informed Capt. Fox that he be- lieved that company had produced a fabric that was superior to the foreign article. A test was accordingly ordered by the Navy Department, fully realizing the confident anticipations of Gen. Butler, and proving the Amorican bunt- ing to be better in color and in quality than the English product. The general wrote the secre- tary of the Senate for authority to make a pres- ent of ono of these flags to be raised over that body. * * * Tomorrow morning it will be hoisted to the Senatoriel flagstaff and unfurled gf angen te ngress finally authorized of American bunting for the national government flags and they are at last all American. e people tees © © en Goubt Believe. with cot ‘That it will it rat Paice in ite glories A GILDED DOME. The Ornate Affair That Will Crown the New Library Building. FROGRESS OF WORK ON THE BIG STRUCTURE NEAR THE CAPITOL -A BUILDING WITH PIP- TEEN HUNDRED WINDOWS —FINE WORK ON THE GRANITE—CONTRACTS TO BE CARRIED ovr. way out of here.” It was a Stam reporter who said it, and he eant it thoroughly. Fora considerable time he had been wandcring around the lower or cellar floor of the new Congressional Library building and had commenced to feel all the horrors of being lost slowly creeping over him, The workman whom he had finally found bad @ broken nose and was wheeling a wheel- barrow, but just at that particnlar stage of the game he had all the appearance of an angel of light, because instead of giving impossible directions he said with classic brevity, ‘Come wid me.” On the long journey to the open air he told the reporter that there were “wan hundred and sivinty” men working that day on the building. Where are the other 169? The gentleman with the broken nose «at down the wheelbarrow, pointed to the four points of the compass, took up the handles again and trundled gravely on for fifteen or twenty minutes. Then he paused again, sat down on the barrow and said, meditativel “Begob, it’s the lonesome life we lude. Some day n man, some day Oi Kay two men, Oi say two men and you, There's Di nis, me brother, and devil have we met for wakes. Oi js Clavelan’ ‘naug'rated? He is? Hooray!” and not another word spake he until a doorway glimmered down a long vista and the reporter escaped. A -HUOR STRUCTURE. Itisan immense affair that ix slowly but surely assuming the form of one of the hand- somest buildings in Washington on the in- closure east of the Capitol. The reporter walked around the outside and found it good training for a six days’ match. Everywhere were blocks of stone brought in cut and drewed from the quarries und encased in wooden slabs to protect them from the fury of the baggage «masher. Ina row of sheds were a number of men chipping away at artistic de- signs for the gramite capstonos and cornice work, while outside were alarge number of these carvings, all showing remarkable skill in execution and design. ‘The outer walls of the building have risen toaconsiderable height now, but the interior ix greatly in advance of thé exterior. The iron work of the dome is pretty well in place and during the last week the lantern on the dome has taken form. In a rear room of a building left on the square when other structures were cleared awa; to make room for a library was found one of the few men who will not require a map to find their way around the new library building. It was Mr. Bernard R. Green, the superintendent of construction, who has ‘practically followed ‘every stone and brick as it was put in placeand has watched the growth since the first shov ful of earth was started with the close watch- ful attention that an astronomer gives to the appearance of a new star. The Stan reporter drow Mr. Green away from a calculation on an extra strong girder to be placed under the Howells and James shelf of books long enough to say something about the progress of the building. The information given below all came from Mr. Green in one way or another, although it is not in quotation marks. The reporter discovered only that mighty big building was going up and that a gentleman with a broken nose bad not met his brother “Dinnis” for two weeks. THE PROGRESS OF THE WORK. The contract for the front stonework on the library has until next winter to ran and has been going on now for four years and a half. ‘There is practically little delay now in getting the store, althongh it has in the past delayed proceedings somewhat, be mentioned that with a building like this, with many contracts dovetailing together, the failure of one contractor will throw the whole machinery out of gear and entail delay and stoppage all along the line, ‘The walls of the buildi rior walls presenting a little ragged appear- ance, but the interior walls have all been fin- ished since last fall. By this fall all the walls of the building will be practically finished. Next spring will be devoted to a large extent to building the steps, driveways and entrance to the main front. after which the masonry work will be practicaliy finished. There are a number of contracts in hand now ready to be started off. These are mainly for interior work and fo> work on the dome other than the iron skeleton contract which 18 now running. THE DOME. ‘The dome is and will be a prominent feature of the building. ‘The iron skeleton, both for the dome proper and the lantern which will crown it, is nearly in place. The dome is 100 feet in diameter and will consist of an interigr and exterior structure. The outer surface will be cf copper. ‘The base of the lantern and of the dome will be surrounded by a balustrade for visitors. The balustrade around the lan- tern will be about as high as the base of the dome proper of the Capitol, and by this is not meant the top of the main buildings of the C: itol, but the point where what is commonly known as the dome rounds off into an actual dome. The dome of the library will have radi- ating panels of copper. which will be gilded, and crown of the lantern will also be gilded. = Just = glanced = aat— in y first impression would be that in gaudiness a 35-cent necktio would blush for shame before this dome; but this will not be the case and the necktie can still hold its head up. The doine, to uso a expression, will be rich, but not gaudy. will prevent its catching any amount of the sun's rays and casting them back into the dazzled eves of a bewildered visitor, while the Sellnsy sneetll grecue depron, Liteon y to astill greater the dome while contrasting entirely with that of Capitol, from present ap} well worthy to stand in such close proximity to it. The dome wilt be finished this summer. Returning to contracts, there are some ten or twelve out now, extending over a period of sev- eral years and comprising in a large marble, coloring, woodwork, &c., for the in- ince Ta this and other part ofthe building a this and o the window and door frames are all in place and the glass in the panes. FUTEEXN HUNDRED WINDOWS. Speaking of windows, if there is any truth in ‘the adage of living in glass houses the librarian ESSIONAL —y some YOU PLEASE SHOW ME THE} id right here it may | ling are all pretty well in hand, the exte- | LIBRARY DOME. that is necessary is to put it in place and rivet it. It may be put down that nine-tenths of the Work on the building is done somewhere elso than in the inclosure. aud that besides the men actually at work here there are at all times from 400 to 600 men really at work on the library building. CARVING THE GRANITE. One cause of delay on the stonework of the | building has been the fino work which is being done on the granite, of which the walls consist. For the better class of stone carving the supp! | of competent men ix limited; and, further, it | rather uncommon for granite to be carved so extensively and the material is somewhat un- | familiar fo even good workmen, but who are ustomed to sandstone and softer materials. | When. however. the granite is carved and the building finished. it will stand and the carvings will retain their sharp lines for ages | after softer stone would have rounded away into indistinct masses, examples of which are 0 common in buildings of the old world. ‘Tne birds have come with the early spring, ‘The air is full of the rash of wing, ‘Of chirp and twitter, the whole day long, Asif all the world were but made for song. Hark! Quick and sharp calls the blue winged Jay; While full of joy ts the song «parrow's lay. From shady eaves how the swallows dart, Chatting and busy with life's new start, On roof and turret the pigeons coo, Bowing and billing, while soft they w And from afar the cock’s loud call Rings forth the joy and gladness of all But sweetest sound In the early spring For me the song that the robins «ing. So fresh, so strong for the battle of life, So brave and ready to take up the strife. No matter how cold the winds still blow, How dark are the skies, with rain or snow,— ‘The robin sings; his brave little heart Brunfal of trast, he longs to impart. For spring must come—and cherries must bloom! ‘Then, why repine and mope in the gloom? So, through the shade as well as the light He sings and carols with all his might. How glad his song, how full of the bliss Of earth’ t morn’s first kiss! ‘Tis then he Mills all the clear, still air ‘With love and praise for the good God's care. When noon is high, and the pressure great Of nesting cares, and of labor's weight Of storm cloud’s threat, and thuad'rous gust, ‘He still sings on, with the same strong trust. And falls the calm of the evening's rest, He sings anon with a deep, sweet rest; But now in bis lay, though full of cheer, A minor note, methinks I hear. Is lost his trust? Is the wee heart sad, ‘That noon found strong, and the morn so glad? Ah, not But now is the sweet song fraught ‘With pain and joy that the day has brought. He sings hw Maker a hymn of praise, For all that en! ‘d and Slied his days; For love and toil—they have not been vain, And sweeter the song for the minor strain. And this is why, in the early apring, I list and long for the robins to «ing. Their cheery song a lesson has taught To my wayward heart ‘t long has sougat. A heavenly lesson, of “Peace! be stillt ‘Thy God is neur! "Tis all His will.” T bow in trust—and all that was sad, Is still and at rest, and—I am glad. BMS. ——— +e- Pronouncing Foreign Words. From Chicago Post, Foreigners are so infinitely more civil than we about mistakes in pronunciation that that is | Balf the trouble with us. If we were obliged to | speak, properly in order to make ourselves un- | derstood 1t would be an excellent corrective. | But in addition to their politeness foreigners | are much more eager to master our than we to acquire theirs. Hence, instead of | learning we teach when we visit foreign lands, often. Anda good many foreigners eater to our ignorance when they come to lve bere, probably for business reasons, Germans ac ually mispronounce their own names to please us! And as for articles of trade, ther become mutilated and unrecognizable at their hands. It is not much trouble to learn that w—even in English an eccentric letter with several sounds—is pronounced ¥ iu German and that a winerwurst is a Vienna sausage. It would add to our knowledge, too. But the man who sells | the sausage calls it a weenerworst instead of « Yeenervoorst, and the lesson is lost, He aacri- fices his birthright for a mess of sausage and we our'chanee of learning something which may | be usefui under other circumstances. At all events it ian investment always to know what one is about. ee ‘Tea gown, made of fancy crepon and trimmed satin and chiffon. How Japanese Armies Fought, From the Chicago Times. Before the westernizing of the war depart- ment a battle was frequently decided by per- sonal encounter. It opened with » volley of arrows and é HH a t i H | —— | Written for The Bventne Star. TISHBITE JEKEMIAW'S DILEMMA, A Strange Combination of Ciroumstencss ‘That Broke Up « Wedding. © O14 Uncle Silas was hosing in the gurden, ‘and as I lounged lazily in the hammock, view= ing the landscape o'er, I became conscious of @ “tableau vivant” directly in front of me. The old man seemed to be having a series of con- vulsions His opntortions from the rear were ludicrous in the extreme, First he elevated his shoulders until barely the crown of hie weather-beaton hat was visible; then his elbows performed @ St. Vitus’ dance until the bos dropped from his rélaxed grasp. At thie point he collapsed altogether and as he doubled up ‘® rousing “Haw! haw! haw! ki-yi-yi!” rang out upon the air, gradually subsiding into « sup Pressed chuckle as he resumed his work. Wondering what amused our faithful ol gardener, I laboriously picked my way over the ploughed ground and euddonly appeared at his wide, “Law, Mine Nellie, heah fo" like « ha'nt, thin slippers on? 1c gib me « turn.” “Please tell me what you were laughing t yon snoopin’ down ye wite drom and to gracious so’ dowe about, Unele Si?” said 7 | draggied condition — | have been very funn: | Why yo) see, Mins Nellie, we'se gwine haba ddin’ in the fambly, come Cheweday wack. My ron Tish am calcllating fo’ to enter de bondage of mabtrimony, if be twin bradder | “Lijah don’t circumnavigate him, “fo de # | clousday ‘rives. I war lartin’ hase po’ ol” hab sich a bard time, ‘count of “Lita © knows Tish, don’ yo! ‘Tishbite Jeres mish? Him an’ "Lijah Moses is hike as twa Feet hs hrik ened one “Lijah wn’ de der de ishbite, kase dey mou't jen a» well bin one Nary one ob de neighbors couldn't tell wich war "Lijab an’ wich war Tisbbite. Wem de preacher call, be say, “Name dat oue Jore- | minh, anvhows, kase ob hitiamb intentions.” In id jee’ sce why, fo’ Tish war dem squealin’ like a ‘stuck pig, but mebbe it war knse he war at de same time in de ac’ ob | squarin’ off wid his leetie blac’ fie fo" to Iam | his mammy. Mammy, she say, he did hab | lamb intentions, au’ de preacher war right, an” xo she uj une de udder twin “Moses” to hinder see-saw wid ‘Jeree miah,” meaning ‘lamb.’ “Dem two twinses allns did git mx up de whole endurin’ time. Ef "Lijah play neste de teacher done lick Tish de mex day; an’ ‘Tish suns his mamumy, den "Lijab he done ootels de tannin’ lke as not. Nobody nebber could tell oder fom wich, twell one day Tish done chop de ‘een ob hisgre’t toe clean off wid de hatchit. Den we got de dead wood on sho, an’ ebory time we suspictous Tish wo makes him draw his bute an’ den we knows. “Wel’ Tish, bedone falled into lub wid dat Zaller gal ob Siv'r Potts’. She bab a fine name, ‘Miss “Nellic, ‘Cymlin’ Pontateuch Potts. Sis'r Potts war layin’ fo” a name fo’ dat pickes ninny, w'en her young Marse Herry comed “long an’ he say, *Cymlin’ am de amen fo’ dat chile, she jallar-buff.” Sis'r D she like the soun’ ob dat name pow'ful, but abe. gm dat pious, she want s nemo @ut 'n de Good Book. Marne Harry, he say, ‘Den tack om “Pentatench” and yo’ done got fibe books obde Bible to once ‘t. So dey dun tack i on, but dev mostly calls ber Cyrali, ‘Wal, "Lijah, be am dat full debilment dat he purten.” eam a’ payin’ be distractions to Cymlin’, likewise ob Tixh; an do” Cymlin’ dejected “Lijub, fa'r an’ sqaar’ sbe most hab de “lirum tremans, he war dat mime cumfuddied fo’ to tell t ‘One day “Lijah war shinsia’ up to her, es” she Vought it was Tish, an’ she say, mi peart-like, ‘“Lijah, be say he washups 4e groun’ I walks on, same like you does, Tish” An’ ‘Lijah be ‘spond to once't, “Deed do he? Wal, I ‘spects dere's room fo''bofe on us te kucel_ in one ob yo’ foutprin’s, “speshully w'em yo’ Ware yo gums.’ Dat make Cymlin’ so mad, she done bus’ wid Tidb, wn’ him as innercent es de lamb he war named ‘artor. ~Him an’ Cymlin’ war 'stranged fo’ some timey den Tish, be dat smart. bo done prove what de lawyer folk caller ubino. Dat is, w'en "Lijah done ‘sulted Cynilin'® foot, Tish an’ Brodder yardner Cyarr war jawin’ "bout er quater wiat Bradder Cyarr owed Tixh. BendderCyare wouldn't pay it twell Tish done drew his bute fo’ to prove he war Tish sho ‘nuff, an’ dat like- Pine prove dat Tish, he didn't “sult Cymiin'e foot,” A week Inter Uncle Silns came slowly up from, how the garden, and 1 couldn't help m changed was his mien. bis lineaments, figure and dejection, and even tho dog at his beels sluakt along as if be felt depression in the air. Ashe reached the piazza he suid, “I s' yo’ wants to heah "bout de widdin’, Miss its done porepone’. “Why, how was that?” said I, interested of on “Wal, do guesses war all ‘sembled onte 4 lawn. Yo’ knows de war gine hab it onto a” lawn kase Cymlin’ war dat sot "bout ite bein® de proper caper fo’ de hot wedder. Her ol” pap he say sbe kin hab it onto de lawn, ef dey keeps offfn de grass; he warn't goin” hab ne traipsin’ and trompin' on the few tuf's ob good grass on de plat. So dey fix up some ob dese yere trans t boxes, wid a can'le in de ine tide like w'at dey had inde perlitical an’ dey sot up one on ® por’, side ob clump ob good grass, an’ it say in big letters, *Keep off'n the grass” ~*Dar war a squar’ obcyarpet out in decl'arin® fo’ de bride an’ groom to stan’ on, and dese, yere magick lanterns war a’ hangin’ all aroaa® ‘on de clothes lines. i Ven de weddin’ party war’ a” comin’ im Sam Griffins pick de banjo while Henery Jobn= sing an’ Deuterin'my Sabes doue perform on de ‘cord'yan un’ de mouf-organ, rexpec'fully. 18 corny war gran. . “Tish comed in lookin’ mighty high an’ hautchy wid Cymlin’ bangin’ on bis arm like er droopin’ pumpkin vine. She war diked out te Kill, ob co'se; she alius war de beatenes’ gal fo” je, She bad a wiite dros: on wide long tail a’switchin’ out bebine, an’ I whould Oimk she done consume a whole bolt ob ribbon, green as de grass, in streamers an’ loops an’ dese yere Tusettes, She doue ‘ranged reef ob chube roses on her haid, w'ich reuer de a'r nigh her like a funeral, de’ fragerance war dat ‘tense, w'en she pass troo de ‘mirin’ crowd. Her hat war crim’ twell her veil sot out like'n it habe cotton globes, On ber beable Dusem broach w'at Tish done gib ber, I ‘spect it war made ob dimins. “Dem two comed « struttin + E 5 de eyni holler’ “De Law to knock de er ober, but Tish, be her trail an’ fotch her back de oder way, doue ‘gain ber equatorial. “Decer'mony war percedin’ tious, wien de bride, she recomembered she ‘t saw “Lijah dat mawnin’, She done look out'n de tail ob her oye fo’ to see war he dar. € . he am gwine possum huntin’, kase| ste| nebber made Ss up wid Orme’. -Cymilin’ git skittish, w'en she don’ see ae ‘Does eder one if